Foundation Waterproofing - Bomber Method
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
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Y’all need to get out of the way and let Johnny work. 😂
Yeah, he worked that same section for over 2 minutes and then the PolyGaurd rep says he was able to cover it in 30 seconds.
Jonny had to have been holding a fart in.
That's what I don't like about this show. The host is a paid advertiser, not a builder
@@PhillTheGreat He is definitely a builder, not a host, and I appreciate how his show introduces new products and methods. But yes, sponsorship keeps the show from being objective about the value added.
Johnny sure is wasting a lot on the ground! Come on Johnny!
Poor Johnny really needs to use a roller pan, dropping that expensive paint on the ground... ouch.
Lol that's what I was thinking! Dropping all the paint....I wonder if Matt peeped it
Came to say the same thing, careless
Johnny just wanted Matt to move out of the way.
@@bothellkenmore 100%. I think we all did.
Lol my cousin was helping me paint a few years back. He was doing the same thing, and the way he was dipping in the bucket almost tipped it over. I just calmly said "aye lemme see that right quick bro?" then said "yeah this how we gotta do it" teachable moment I guess...i can trust him with a roller now😂😂
That Johnny guy is letting big gobs of product fall off of his roller whilst transitioning his roller from bucket to wall… just sayin
The product is free. So...
Would like to see the french drain details
Same here. Those are some seriously high basement walls too.
@Mark-hb5zf yeah, probably a perforated 8" with gentle slope.
@@jwristen24where does it drain to? Does it need a pump since it’s 14 ft under grade?
@@nofurtherwest3474 falls to a sump I would imagine
Johnny get that bucket closer to the wall, so you're not spilling half the product.
😂😂
Anytime i see these videos, i want to dig up next to my foundation and do it right. My contractor only rolled on roof flashing when my house was built. I questioned him about it, and he told me his is standard practice. Wish I'd known better 6 years ago
I'm envious of how tall those basement walls are. In my 100 year old house, the bottom of the joists is about 6 and a half feet. I can't even imagine having 14 foot basement walls.
Had an acquaintance that had a super sloped yard from front to back. It was enough drop they were able to put a half court basketball court in. Yeah, it was a fancy place
Same here. 😂
Can really dry walk over that low of a ceiling. Maybe could just paint it all white if you want to make it feel more open and bright.
I saw Matt’s first video years ago with poly guard and use that on my entire foundation. Absolutely love it and has never had any issue
I’ve seen this type of product sprayed on in commercial settings, a lot more efficient and great coverage.
My X7 would def spray that stuff, just a bigger Tip opening. Heck even if you had to toss the nozzle afterward, they aren't that expensive
@@CC_Fosterthrow the tip in xyleen or tuleen and re use it. Funny that he's not promoting spraying them and getting Graco as a sponsor.😊
Is there a way to retro fit an old house with these products? Or we’re just screwed?
I hope you come back with a video on the installation of the footing drain.
did I miss cost per square foot for this system?
nope, it's a shit load. $360 for a 5 gallon bucket of stretch flex
@@Ramdodge582 That guy has dripped a buckets-worth already.
If Johnny puts it on you better factor in 50% more for the ground
Can the poly guard go through a sprayer or does the roller help push it into gaps. Hope it’s not a stupid question….
Yes it can as can Blue Barrier 2300 but not just any sprayer will work.
Still need to
Back roll after spraying because spraying leaves shadow areas not covered
What is “Bomber” keep hearing Matt drop this over the years. Please don’t say it’s like “So Fetch” because we all know how that worked out 😂
Means great product. Tough. Will hold up. Awesome. Etc..
Non-builder here. I’m always impressed by the level of attention to detail on this channel. It is great to see exactly how the pros keep the water out and flowing away from the structure. I’ve put these learnings to good use on my own home.
Who the heck digs out that much dirt to do a basement. That must be a million dollar job
Literally everyone in north America and lot of places in US. Not 1M but probably cost 40, 50k usd to make.
@@benjaminlavigne2272 no if you see the overdig on most basements it's 18"-3ft on that place they have enough room for a camera guy to step back 15 ft and record them nobody does that on a normal site. I live in Northern nys basements aren't just common but almost necessary. And I've worked plenty of construction. I can see atleast 2 sides of that house that are severely overdug maybe for filming
@@LightWalker315 Oh! ok i see what you mean, i thought you meant depth. Well, while I agree with you that at first glance, it may seem like so, but here is my thought. Towards the end of the video, you see an aerial view which shows the excavation shaped like a rectangle while the house has a different shape which leaves some spaces with more dug out. Maybe balconies are also going to be supported by concrete tube columns there with a base. All that being said, the slopes in this video dont seem to respect a 1:2 slope it's almost vertical in some places, probably a tough clay but still can collapse when left uncovered during heavy rain. From what i'm seeing, i still wouldn't judge that as over-excavating at all.
Million? I bet it’s a lot more than this.
People need to appreciate that the homes he’s building are top-of-the-line custom homes. Most of us will never have a home builder who uses these techniques because they are cost prohibitive.
Can you show how you backfill dirt/drain rock?
How's this product different from Semco's Membrane or Aquabloc?
Can you spray foam the inside of the basement wall with this, or is that a bad idea? Seems like it would lock moisture into the concrete.
Concrete is fine to remain wet. Just don’t want moisture getting to framing so want a cap break in your sill gasket
you would probably want to use an open cell foam to let any moisture escape but personally I would use Rockwool against the concrete
Bituminous tar....neat tech, I hope it works. If you back-fill that with anything but coarse sand 45 degrees from the top???...REALLY expensive re-do, and pretty sure the makers will point to anyone but themselves.....
Why are so many of your workers wearing black in this heat? Insanity! lol
If you used this on an existing 70’s cinderblock foundation would you recommend putting the joint sealer on all mortar lines?
Only the cracks. And I’d seal with hydraulic cement
Get that guy a cordless caulking gun.
Would love to see the french drain install video as a follow up! Great video.
Was shown previously. Some years ago, so maybe they've updated methods.
Please get us some videos of proper waterproofing of basement on existing houses.
I’ve been interested in the homestretch product bit for some reason they don’t ship it to California. I would guess prop 65, but the only requirement there is a warning needs to be added to the product.
I saw one of your older polywall videos and decided to do it on my new construction. Our house is currently in construction. I ordered and applied the peel and stick poly wall rubber membrane along with dimple mat before burying our foundation. It’s some great stuff. I actually used a double row of schedule 40 pipe at the base for French drain. I wanted it to be really thick wall so that it would not crush. You cannot get French drain in schedule 40 so I drilled my own holes. I can guarantee water is not going to be a problem. with my basement. Thanks for all the help Matt!
Can this product be sprayed on ?
All the ppl outside of the US very confused when he kept saying "60 mil" 😂
A few questions, how much overlap is required between rows, on corners what kind of flexibility is in the dimple material, can you kink it? What length does it come in, are there any back fill requirements or is it best practice? Can you give a cost per square foot for both products. I see some dimple products Finnish above grade but at random heights on the foundation wall, do they specify a Finnish height. Thanks Matt.
It seems to me there is a lot of waste applying the polybond with a roller. Why not just spray it on. Not Johnny's fault.
Builders here in Alberta, Canada, just spray tar and run.
I did not think basements were a thing in Texas. Now I know it's just a matter of cash.
They really aren't a thing, except for the few who can afford the huge cost of digging one. The bedrock in TX makes it very impractical, but when money is no object all things are possible.
@@dlg5485Elon says Austin Chalk is easy for his tunneling machines. Maybe the boring company ought to get into the foundation digging business.
@@mefobills279 Musk is a clown, so no surprise he's talking out his a$$.
@@mefobills279Elon says a lot of things.
Ive been in commercial construction for over 30 years. Always amazed me why high end home builders never caught on to our assemblies. This is something we've been using for many years
It's not required by code! Everything is a minimal viable product apart from interiors and square feet.
@@RaoulHira I'm saying if a homeowner wants a high performance product that lasts....try to keep up
There are a lot that mix in commercial products. They aren't the homes you'll see published or on tv/internet.
@sparksmcgee6641 very true. Thing is tight assemblies don't have to be expensive. Just need to be well thought out and drawn right. Heard a lot of builders just saw to "code". You can still go above and beyond and not crush the bank
@@jwristen24he explained to you why. Don’t get worked up.
The cold joints could use cetco waterstoprx..... the fluid joint filler not sure is great for the cold joints.
I was thinking the same. You don't see them on these residential projects. I use them on my commercial projects. That waterproof method looks expensive.
The basement really shouldn't need to be waterproofed. Water needs to be managed before it gets to the foundation. I live in a 1940s house with a fieldstone foundation. Zero water issues.
As a home inspector, I can tell you that this product will not last long. In 20 years this will be deteriorated. It's much more important to backfill with gravel and have a good foundation/footer drain. Superior walls does it right when it comes to drainage and preventing water penetration without using chemicals that don't last.
Looks great but the amount of labor is insane. 99% of builders will never do this, honestly, nor will customers want to pay for it. Grinding the wall, brushing it, caulking seams, then rolling multiple coats.
I had a house built in 2020 and they sprayed the tar-like coating on, then threw up delta mat. Not as thorough but is it good enough? Sure seems to have been-and my water table is insanely high. Walls are completely dry.
Is there not a concern that the mechanical fasteners for the dimple mat punctured the fluid-applied moisture barrier?
Look at Isodrän. In the Nordics dimple mats are conciderd as the cheap solution since they do not provide insulation. And they are susceptible to damage and brake down since settlement and failure in one point would lead to water intrusion. Also the need backfilling with drainage aggregate to handle the water.
Basement insulation for Austin is just dumb.
36°C from May to Sept....
Never frozen ground.
When you back fill ,be careful 👍
They are using a 1" to 2" at least... that is NOT a 3/8ths inch nap. Why the F@%K are they not using a trough?? They are spilling as much material as they are getting to the wall... so unprofessional.
60 mm?? Are you sure about that, unless I’m missing something.
A mil here is a thousandth of an inch, so roughly 1/16 of an inch.
This refers to weight, not actual thickness.
60 mil not mm.
1 mil = .001 of an inch = .0254 mm
Wire brushes? Why not some Muratic acid in a broadcast sprayer. Followed by a pressure washer?
Wasted half that bucket by not using a pan!
Happy to have found this glorious wealth of knowledge channel. Had a thought the other day. As for structure above grade, just fastening insulation panels to the sheathing just seems weird to me. I feel like there needs to be some breathing room to dry out any trapped moisture. But then I feel like that a concern of a thermal break issue and possibly room for critters to get in if you don’t get the bug screen attached correctly. I was hoping I could get your thoughts on using something like the prosoco R guard rolled on to the sheathing and when it’s time to hang the insulated panels, you would roll r guard on the side of the panel that touches the sheathing. So you it adheres the panel to the sheathing like the zip r but reversed.
They make many rain screen products. Matt has highlighted quite a few. I've used this dimple mat product as a barrier for a patio with mortar and pavers.
Right.
Rain screen is for between the foam insulation panels, if you wish to do so, and the exterior siding. I’m all for that. I’m talking about the void between the OSB sheathing and the foam panels. There’s been some insight and conversation about putting dabs of silicon behind the foam to raise it off the sheathing to get that breathing room back there. But I’m wondering if there are any cons to adhering the panels to the sheathing so there is no voids no gaps. Just basically gluing the panels to the outside of the sheathing. Just as the zip r sheathing has foam attached to the OSB facing into the house. My idea would be foam attached to the OSB facing the outside.
@@Tony-sy7ed I saw videos on this topic, same channel, a mold sensitive owner paid them to do a study to prove that there would not be a buildup of moisture behind the sheeting against the foam. The product was the zip-R and the results were fascinating. They compared it against a home wrap design and collected data over time seeing how moist each system got and how long it took to dry. As you would expect the Zip-R system got less moisture during wet cycles than the home wrap. The surprise was that moisture leaves which never got as high also dried out just as quick. I shared your concern about breathing versus sealed up until the results of that study, i no longer do. Now it's important to note that the insulation on Zip-R is bonded to the sheet, the results may differ if you used a different product where the insulation was not bonded to the sheeting.
You always say “bomber” what does that mean? If slang please speak and communicate a little bit better 😊
What about ICF waterproofing?
How do you feel about using concrete densifiers as a first step?
You mean something like Xypex?
@@LincolnLog I was thinking the same thing... Why not just use Xypex, premixed with the concrete?
@@LogansRun314 it's good but expensive. Also, because most foundation walls are poured after the footer, a cold joint exists.
Steyrchflex 30 mils one coat 60 in 2. ?WHAT
Has anyone ever used xypex, concrete sealant, to seal a basement walls and installing a French drain system? I used Xypex on a retaining wall with a french drain. I did the install 8 years ago and the wall is still in great shape, no lean or seepage.
why not just spray foam closed cell.. waterproof and insulate at the same time
That roller guy is wasting so much material. Move the bucket closer to the wall
Seems like you should have shoring that far down ... What am i missing??
I was thinking the same. Maybe slope that corner back a little with his excavator.
Thumbs down at 22 seconds in. Yet more sponsored bs.
#574👍👏🤔I watch this answer wonder how my home built in 1960 keeps the water out!! All my foundation has is a coating of tar on the foundation wall. I know the joint between the footings and the wall have leaked. 35 years ago I had to dig up the West wall of my daylight basement to get rid of the shit drain pipe and replace it with a solid plastic line to contain that roof drain water so it didn't seap between the wall and footing joint. That joint was also sealed up. I understand why these 60+ year old homes get torn down and replaced. 🌰s!!
Do these products work in any climate?
Johnny is getting more of it on the ground get a tray😅
Would you use UV2-40 over a product like GP Forcefield?
I wonder if this could be done in houston
Dude rolling out makes me sad. Then glad while I was this side of construction I was better then most pros. This style of system was always my favorite. Use you local products we got Carlisle here in PA
ive had great success with masonproof from Global Environmental Solutions its a polymer based product bonds within the concrete No i dont work for them i used them for a project a few years ago not sold in stores you have to order direct. The owner is a wizard with polymers
Why you are doing this over tar, gravel, weeping tile and sump? Planning on taking your house out for a spin in a waterway? I have no doubt this is better but costs much more.
If you need a sump pump, you've already lost the battle in finishing your basement.
@@sociopathmercenary Only if the pump fails?
@@t.c.973 I have a walkout basement with no sump pump. Tar, weeping tile and gravel outside along with dimple board.
My basement is pretty dry but I'm still gonna use a concrete densifier and sealer on the inside... Probably still won't cover all the walls with drywall to completely finish it.
I've had moisture issues in previous houses and won't go there again.
I also don't want to be put in the position where I'm depending on electricity to pump moisture out of my basement.
If I had actually built my house, I would have spent the extra money to get as much waterproofing as possible.
@@sociopathmercenarynot so. If the water table ever rises above footer, and a gravity drain isn’t possible, you need a sump. Every home in my area has one that can’t drain to daylight, and many have finished basements (including mine). Your gravel and drain is worth nothing unless you’re moving water *somewhere*.
As for relying on electricity you can have a battery backup pump, or one that uses city water pressure. People who get into problems with the pump are myopic: the pump eventually dies, and they aren’t aware of it or they have a power outage, and no way to feed power to it. As long as you assume with complete certainty that at some point, the pump either won’t work or there’s no power to it you can come up with remediation to avoid a flooded basement.
any chance to use bitumen black tar of different consistences to cover concrete?
Excellent explanation of this system but im curious where does your drain system end is it to storm drain or is it just on property I've been told that here in the metroplex Dallas it's against code to run to storm drain i dunno thanks
I think you misplaced the decimal, try .72%, that’s sounds more believable.😂😂
how is the footing not protruding out from the basement wall? is the wall the same width as the footer? just a really thin footer because of high psi soils?
This or something along these lines should be a code requirement across the country - all houses, slab on grade included
I always vibrated during pours it's extra protection and strenghthens concrete cold joints if you did vibrate it wasn't for long enough and you save time on future coatings with smoother concrete. Your standards are almost beyond beliving your clients are lucky to have you.
How about using this product on the inside of a crawl space?
Any 1/4 rodenhouse screw is a concrete screw. I havent touched my small wedge-it's or ramset since i had a few hunderd left over 6" and 10" Rodenhouse/Spax. Use a 7/32 SDS and you can set Nything faster than a powder actuated.
So Matt, after you finish with this procedure, will you be giving the owner a guarantee for a dry basement?
Or will it be an ugh ugh ugh, well not exactly a guarantee for a dry basement?
I just heard the guy say the magic word, ( French Drain).
Without that, all of the other things your doing would simply be an expensive nothing burger.
No builder can or will guarantee such a thing.
Seems like 3-D printed foundations will be the next step forward in building & waterproofing.
Questions to Matt Risinger
First question:It looks like there are staples that tie one roll of dimple board to the adjacent roll. Matt does not mention them in the video. I would like to know what that product is and how it is applied.
Second question: I will have foam board between the StretchFlex and the Dimple Board. The foundation and this foam board will extend a couple of feet above grade. I intend to cover the above grade foam board with a drain matt (rain screen) behind a stucco coating. How should I transition this drain matt behind the stucco to the below grade drain board? Will a termination bar at the top of the below grade dimple board still make sense or will it interfere with the transition from the above grade rain screen to the below grade dimple board. I anticipate that the stucco will extend a few inches below the top of the below grade drain board to prevent dirt from getting into the below grade drain board.
@Matt Risinger looking for recommendations to prevent moisture in an entire concrete room. This is going to be built next year. The front porch is concrete and a suspended slab over foundation walls creating an entire concrete room as a storm shelter in Missouri. How do you seal the top slab from condensation/ humidity?
We are about to pour our slab for our DIY home build and have several electric, low voltage, and water conduits to allow for future projects and repairs. Our water main is 1in pex and will run in conduit just in case there is ever an issue - then it will be an easy repair. Grey PVC is the way to go for most aspects, especially if there will be long term UV exposure. Our inspector said white PVC "can" be used, but is frowned upon due to potential confusion with the various services in the future if someone else is working on the house.
Another question:
Where do you source those self-adhesive plastic stick pins that are briefly shown in one of this videos's transitions? This is a stick pin that anchors foam boards to the wall.
I’m very curious on what the design is of the exterior foundation drain sump pump is. Wonder if the grade makes it impossible to gravity drain to a storm drain system.
The only basement in Texas
Shame its not able to hit coat thickness in one pass. Airless would be a lot faster application, suprised you rolled it.
a family friend in florida her deceased husband was an engineer he passed and she really could have used this info as her basement leaks... and shes paid multiple times to do idk what but this looks like a great method
Why not spray that shit.
A basement in Texas 😮
Super video.
Could you use these products on a wooden basement?
Why not just use something like Xypex?
Just build on pier foundation instead. No wet basement, mold or radon.
That's great, unless you want a basement. A dry walkout basement is a beautiful thing.
How is it not easier and cheaper to use xypex? Either in the mix or post pour?
Would this be a good product for an older house?
If you can expose walls from exterior yes. Problem is it’s a lot of disruption and need to locate any utilities prior to digging
Can these techniques/applications be used on an interior foundation basement wall if the house is already finished?
No. This must be completed from outside to prevent any water intrusion. Interior waterproofing is not a thing
Dose he use any tools or actually build anything himself? Office Builder type I see.
Spokesman.
I bet he knows how to spell 'does', tool monkey.
What did you do about the form oil?
Man I've learned so much from this channel! Can't wait til the day I get to build a home. Whoever i hire as GC is gonna think im a genius
Start saving.
Nope, he'll most likely think you're a pain in the ass and your requests to do things a certain way will come at a cost. My contractor once didn't follow the plans, giving me a little "Roman" tub when the bathroom had been especially laid out for an elongated tub. Also, undersized some street facing windows, ruining the look. They wanted to buy our house rather than fix things. They ended up fixing things while insisting on how thankful we should be. Good luck finding a good GC. Watch them like a hawk.
build your own home man, I am planning for it now. There are online resources to prepare you. You don't have to do the work you just manage it. You save a ton, these builders charge from 20-30% when all is said and done. This channel has been very helpful for me in planning the build. The key is to plan and plan some more. The hard part will be finding sub-contractors and getting the loan. There are tips and tricks for that too though.
Did Matt reply to my comment!!?? 👀😳 Nice!! Don't know what telegram is, but man thats pretty dope!!
Sean M been saving since 2020!!
Huge basement 😮
Also what happens when the walls crack? That poly guard paint won't cover the crack.
Crack will also be hidden by the interior insulation
I believe it has some stretch to it
C’mon, we all know that this will still leak one day.
Like the channel but these blatant advertisements strike me as unethical.
@suspicionofdeceit8402 C'mon man, you've seen enough videos to know this is below disclosure standards.
All of TH-cam is paid for by advertisements
@@LuminairPrime ok I see you are just typing whatever so have a good day.
@suspicionofdeceit8402 Yes, he’s running a business. Just not a construction business.