An Excellent (and Easy) Basement Waterproofing System!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2024
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The military term is Defense in Depth. Multiple layers you adversary has to get through that overlap. Your adversary just happens to be water.
We had a thick layer of tar sprayed on the walls and footing, then an 8 mill plastic sheeting stuck to that, then 2'' of Styrofoam. 2 - schedule 40 pipes with the holes pointing down on rock around the footing and back filled with trap rock. A layer of landscape fabric was placed between the dirt and stone for separation. The stone was installed all the way to within 16'' of the top. Not even a hint of moisture. That's how you keep a basement dry.
The only problem is when the tar dries it will allow the plastic sheeting to pull away and moisture to get in. The good news is it takes about 50years for that tar to dry out.
That's a lot of rock.
I have a 1962 building with the tar and plastic but no drain tile or insulation. Sidewalks are poured up to the walls and joints are sealed. The groundwater alone causes a humidity issue, but no bulk water.
@@TheSteelArmadillo Do you have vapor barrier and insulation under the concrete floor?
James Gleason that’s what the as-builts show and the historical images at least show the poly on the sides. It was built long before I was born. I do know that poly sheeting is not truly water proof when there is water pressure on one side.
Edit, sorry no insulation under or on the sides. Just tar and plastic.
When I built my house, nobody, absolutely nobody wanted to be in charge of waterproofing. I knew when nobody wanted to do it, it is because it is complicated, and mistakes are expensive. I did most of these except the joint, and the mat. So far so good. Probably the best thing I did was add water swales, and in ground drains for the down spouts.
@Will Swift I have water proofed basements in commercial buildings in San Francisco that are built where the bay used to be. So in essence below sea level. For a professional waterproofing company ( not a handyman or carpenter or general contractor) it is relatively easy there are many systems that work. I have even waterproofed 2 basements built n the middle of an underground river.
Let me ask - see how the footing is square to the foundation wall? Ie the footing is wider than the wall, so at the bottom of thew all the footing sticks out at a right angle. But can't water collect there? Why not have a "tapered joint", ie build up some concrete there to push the water away? I know its dirt there after it gets back filled but its gets saturated then the water can settle to there. The things is is that backfill is less compact than the regular ground so water will move from the more compact soil to the backfill every rain.
I am so glad you did this video. Please keep them coming!!!!
So great to see a project from my hometown of Columbia Missouri featured on this channel. I've often wondered if there was any other contractors who watch this channel here. Basements and water intrusion is a big issue here as there is lots of streams, groundwater, and natural springs here. Lots of folks here have leaky basements. Making this video highly relevant.
Jake's an excellent instructor.
I’m gonna build my house soon and I’m super excited to implement all the knowledge Matt gives us lol thanks for all your knowledge Matt!!
Someday I will as well. :D
Yes yes
That is why I plan to start playing the lottery. 😁. The only problem about all these systems are cost. Sure you having a leak free house is Priceless but these products cost more. Just wish they would do a side by side construction methods and costs comparison.
@@marcelosantana9311 i wish he reada this then! @mattrisinger
Use AMVIC insulated concrete forms with a Soprema membrane then dimple board
Waterproofing/ damp proofing is probably the most overlooked part of the home. In the Chicagoland market, asphalt damp proofing is standard. I'm amazed how many $1M + homes are damp proofed. We do offer a dimple board option (Delta MS). Great product, very few leaks. Don't go cheap on waterproofing.
Peel and stick is the best in my opinion, put the dimple over top if you want extra.
Jake is a great speaker. Great product.
Matt, The guest on this show has made this episode one of the best that you have put out in quite a while 👍
Smart. More than one safety net is always how good engineering works.
Perfect! I was looking for a professional, never-fail, type of video..and i found it. Thanks boys
100% agree with your philosophy of redundancy. I appreciate your dedication to quality work.
Appreciate that!
Jake B., Fantastic video 👍. I would say that you make a very compelling argument. Thank you very much for taking the time!
I agree with the cost v. Risk of failure analysis and not being method biased which matt seems not to be unlike lots of builders.
I like that approach. Well done !!
Overall good approach. For my jobs, I prefer to ratchet it up a notch or two, however. Background is that for the past 30+ years I have done all new work with continuous exterior foam for basements and crawls, in Massachusetts, New Hampshire and now Colorado. I have evolved continually over that time span, and best practice now is:
1) Rub-R-Wall hot liquid spray applied waterproofing. Needs no special prep on the concrete. Goes on about 1/8" to 1/4" thick, and bonds ferociously. Cover from outer edge of footing to about 4" below TOW. We use primered, self-adhered membrane (from supplier of the liquid applied on the sheathing) to cover the jump to wood. The sheet material is more resilient at the concrete to wood interface, far less likely to be torn or violated.
2) The Rub-R-Wall guy installs Dupont 2 1/8" Perimate foam over the cooling rubber coating as he goes. Foam more or less sticks, and is also fastened with a few powder actuated pins going through special plastic washer caps. Perimate has keyed drainage slots vertically along the 8' dimension, which have been tested and proven to not silt up over time, thus serving the purpose of the drainage mat. The Perimate is met at the top by the continuous exterior wall foam, faces are flush, so no cold band (heat loss). We typically hang factory finish (colored) Galvalume steel from up under the siding, to about 6" below finish grade. Protects the foam (UV is the big disintegrator of foam), looks good, is an easy fit-up. Our climate, the Perimate controls dew point/ condensation very effectively in our jobs. Typically will have stud walls with R-13 FG batts interior, with no issues ever.
3) Filter fabric from footing to far side of excavation, and upwards from there, with 4" perf drain laid in, holes down. Gravity drainage, even if it means a lot of digging to daylight (no issues with power loss/ pumping in storms). Sump and pumps only if absolutely no gravity path available.
4) Fill trench with 3/4" crushed concrete to about two feet below finish grade. Crushed recycled concrete has been cheaper than stone. Install 4" solid drain pipe, with standpipes for all downspout locations, pitched to dedicated gravity drainage outlet as per perf pipes below. If the roof water isn't down in the trench, why put it there yourself?? Now fill the trench to within 6-12 inches of finish grade, filter fabric over, and soil to taste. I don't mean for the help to take a dump on it, by the way.
5) We are in radon territory. Interior gets full drainage system, pitched for water, covered in crushed concrete. One or more radon vents go up, from the same perf pipe setup. Dedicated gravity drainage as per other systems. If gravity not possible, use a sump and pumps to lift and dump into the RWL solid pipe above and outside. And seal the sump, for the radon.
Only downside to this is that my Rub-R-Wall guy died of a sudden heart attack with about a day's work left on my last project. His son-in-law finished the job, then dissolved the company. It is a franchise, and I don't know if anyone ever picked up the Colorado territory afterwards. A big loss for the industry here, this is the ultimate foundation waterproofing system. I haven't actually done any foundation work since.
Step 1) ...goes on 1/8” to 1/4” and bonds “ferociously”..... I think you mean “tenaciously” 😜
My experience with crushed recycled concrete is over time it solidifies not allowing water to pass through
what about termites with your continuous external foam ??
Great video and Jake is a great addition to your show!
thank you, you make it seem like everything will be okay. hand tool time for me. i shy from power tools although i did invest and buy some. i havent used them yet .
I used tar, plastic, a ton of gravel and a drain pipe. This is high tech. Lots of great pointers. I might buy some of the products.
Two things drive a builder to use these kinds of products on building, the owner requesting them used or the risk of ignoring the water issues. And this risk is minimal because of it becoming the homeowner's problem a year later when the warranty is up. So I love the idea of adding proper waterproofing products during construction but for 99% of us plebs, we will get what the track home builders give us, and that is the cheapest possible solution that will work just long enough for them to not be financially responsible, and maximize the profits for that builder.
I've never seen a production builder use a basement.
@@JamesG1126 you live in an area of low cost land then. Everything here has basements
@@jamesgleason2682 having a basement has nothing to do with property costs, and everything to do with frost lines and soil rigidity. Here in PNW we have almost zero full basements because of having around inches deep frost line. Take somewhere like NE they have frost lines measured in feet... So if you have to dig that deep for your footings... Might as well make it "additional house space" aka basement
@@sparksmcgee6641 land cost doesn't mean basements... It means frost line and soil rigidity issues
@@jamesgleason2682 haha... I am aware of the crawl space under my house :P. It is on my list of things to deal with after air sealing the attic. Just one of a 1000 projects on my 5 year old half a mill dumpster track built home
Jake is a great speaker. Great product...
Thanks Matt and Jake. Good stuff.
Love this! I’ve been doing lots of research for waterproofing from outside and this system I can do myself on my almost 100 year old house I just bought
How did your waterproofing project turn out?
Jake is a man that speaks wisdom rather then a cheapskate builder looking to cut corners, nice work!
Jake, if you read this, excellent job as always. Thanks Matt
Great presentation, the speaker is compelling
Matt... love the Show... big fan from Canada.. and I love the intro,, So lets start the show.
Drainage mat is key. Stops capillary action of the water on the foundation. Don't skimp on waterproofing.
Seems key for the exterior walls of a conditioned crawl space too but I never see that done.
@@JamesG1126 Haven't seen my projects, I guess. SOP
@@jamesgleason2682 Exterior pretty much the same as a conditioned basement, as I described in the long original comment I posted earlier for this vid. Probably the only significant difference will be the interior. Radon is a big deal here, and virtually all new structures must have radon mitigation built in, even if the power venting is not needed at the time. Cold and frost line makes crawls a minimum foundation standard (likely to be drilled caissons with grade beams, the normal nomenclature in these parts), as an awful lot of the soils are far too hot to float a slab on grade; that kind of stuff is just not done around here.
Okay, back to topic. The interior will get graded out to bottom of footings or the grade beams, and then 4" perf pipe in crushed stone or crushed concrete (stone size dependent on issues of handling, but normally 3/4"). Drains run out, and radon venting goes up. For a crawl, we simply use 10 mil clear poly over the stone, in the largest pieces/ fewest joints one can. There is a good trick with the expansion joint material that I like. Rip 1/2" off the edges of all pieces, then pin the rips back on to the larger piece with small finish nails. Snap grade lines on the walls, pull the poly up at the foundation walls, and use masonry nails or powder actuated to fasten the main width of expansion joint to the wall. Then 2" +/- of 3/8" aggregate 2500 psi fiber reinforced concrete. Pump it in real wet, screed neatly to the top of the expansion joint material, and bull float to suit, walk away. The concrete is to maintain the integrity of the poly, and hence air/ vapor seal: it also makes a clean work environment for the trades, and any future activities(like personal storage). I do not normally use any foam insulation under the crawl slabs, as we typically have radiant floors with insulation below, in the joists. Temps in the crawl are intermediate, and don't vary widely.The soil mass below will basically stabilize out to something like 55 F, more or less year-round. The exterior foam keeps humidity and condensation from becoming an issue, as the foundation walls could be otherwise affected by changing outdoor ambient temps. The last task is to give the concrete topping a week or so to cure, and go then go back and pull those 1/2" rips off the top of all the expansion joint material at the walls. Leaves a real neat groove, with pre-installed bond breaker at the bottom. Just right for a pourable two-part polyurethane sealant, or a gun grade, if you prefer (trim poly to the groove).
Another note about radon: if a sump system is required for the interior, then the sump itself must be sealable (lid) at the concrete surface in the crawl, to prevent radon entering the space, or reducing the effectiveness (pressure drop developed) of the powered vent fan above.
@@jamesgleason2682 1) it has become the industry standard/ trade practice hereabouts 2) neither
The geology basically dictates, or at least heavily influences. There is a huge range of soils and foundation conditions along the Front Range of Colorado. Once down off the Foothills and onto the " flat" Plains, one is on the ancient seafloor. It is layers of sedimentary rock (mostly shale and some sandstones), layers of oil and gas deposits, and more sediments on top: all hundreds or thousands of feet thick. The lower layers have been so compressed that the original sediments have been turned into those shales and sandstones. The topmost layer has been compressed into a hard layer, that can appear to be stone, but isn't really. We call it claystone. It is composed of expansive clays. Water penetrates down very slowly, and causes the claystone to revert to clay as it gets wetted. Typically, the top 5 to 15 feet will be softened and unstable. Anything founded in that top layer will move, heave, possibly for years after construction. The nasty part is that if one digs for a foundation, the water penetration is pushed downward as a result, just keeps getting softer, deeper.
Best practice (usually mandatory per code) is a soils test and report from the geotechnical engineer. The report will specify design parameters for the site, and in these cases, that is caissons. The structural engineer will design the foundation per building loads and soils report. Typical house will be 12" diameter caissons, 10 to 15 feet into the undisturbed claystone, so maybe 15 to 25 feet total depth, but not unheard of to go 40 feet deep. The bearing capacity is a result of the footprint, and also the friction/ interlocking of the vertical sides of the caisson into the solid claystone. It is necessary to also look at and consider potential uplift from the softened material in the topmost layer acting on the upper part of the caissons, during engineering. A modest two story may need these every 10 feet of foundation wall, give or take. The soils engineer must be on site for the entire drill and fill, and approve each hole as it is drilled. A concrete pump is standard, with trucks rolling in as required; the holes must be filled immediately as they are bored and approved ( to avoid water intrusion/ softening/ collapse). Typically 2 to 4 re-rods will be inserted full height in each, sometimes full cages are specified, most likely for larger diameter bores. Here, the caisson industry is like the post-tensioned industry in Matt's Austin. The most prevalent technology will likely be the most economical, and no sense wasting energy fighting it.
Now after all that, we also see incredible gravel deposits, along the current river channels. Might be 1/2 mile wide, probably good conventional bearing. Get near and into the Foothills, and anything may be found. Could be solid granite (pin to it), decomposed granite (claw it out, conventional footings), gravels, clays, mixed up combinations (really need the soils engineer for them), and sometimes even decent ordinary soil. We have had jobs where the best solution was 24" to 48" diameter caissons (needs the footprint for the loads and underlying soils) that were drilled through 5 to 8 feet +/- of mixed junk, to hit good bearing (like solid gravel deposits). We have had jobs in marginal soils (slightly expansive, not over claystone), where we were able to use interrupted footings. This mean an array of concrete pads, providing bearing for the grade beams (could be a full basement height, or a crawl) on void between the pads. The pads are sized per the building load right to the limit of the tested bearing capacity of the soils, so there is not enough surface area for the slight expansion to generate measurable uplift.
Bottom line, it pays to have a good pair of engineers and a big arsenal of possible techniques to handle whatever you have to deal with. TMI ??
@@jamesgleason2682 And again, when I checked my reply, it was garbled. I really thought it loaded okay, but no. I edited and repaired, hopefully that holds up.
Awesome to see construction of this caliber in MidMo. I live 45 minutes NE of Columbia near Paris.
I like what you said about self-pace and quality. Makes a huge difference.
Great video. Thanks a lot Matt!
Great video great information as usual.
His logic is impeccable.
That will keep the salt from getting in. That spalling is a funny thing. Great video.
we did much the same thing on basement that was entirely below grade. it was connected to walk-out garage that previously had major weeping issues which is why I researched all the options. I think it was peel and stick, drain panel, then gravel and filter fabric. homemade drains out of thicker pvc pipe with holes drilled ourselves all inside a filter sock. Landscape pipe looked like it would crush.
I put a lot of drains to daylight under the slab and put the whole thing on 1ft+ of gravel. AND a sump pump in a deep corner too.
a big difference is that I spent an extra 25% on the concrete to get Xypex waterproof concrete. crystals that swell up with water and seal all the holes. We knew it was good when it rained all winter before we framed and the basement filled with water that would not drain, even through the cold joint. waterproof concrete works well. I could probably have done without everything else, but like he said, it's a belt and suspenders type of thing.
All the preexisting weeping problems disappeared from the rest of garage and foundation under house nearby too. I think previously, the clayey soil had resulted in the foundation sitting permanently in water retained soil, and doing the basement like that lowered the entire water table around house.
how has it been performing? any issues?
jake crushed it
In Australia we have a product called Dincel, designed in Australia by a civil engineer Mr Dincel, it is a stay in place formwork which when filled with concrete is %100 per cent waterproof. There is no requirement for rubberised coatings, drainage barriers etc. it is actually used to make water tanks and chemical holding tanks. This is a brilliant product.
th-cam.com/video/GSTG49fHrgk/w-d-xo.html
I watch "The French Drain Man" and Dan O'Connor (HydroArmor) and I've been waiting for this video from your channel to compare 👍
I am going to do hydroarmor's version of an interior french drain with sump pump in my basement, then have this done to the exterior after excavation, then frenchdrainman's system on side of my yard that is uphill and sheds water toward my house.
My Sewage Pipe runs out the side wall of my basement, when the water line that comes into the house broke underground we had water pouring in around the collar of where the sewage pipe exits and also if it rains long enough and heavy enough it will show signs of water running down the wall inside, I used dug out all the dirt that worked it's way in between the collar and pipe and filled it with expanding spray foam which has definitely reduced the amount of water on a heavy rain but I still need to dig down on the outside of the house and seal it from the outside once and for all.
Excellent content. Thanks.
I like this guy Matt. Great content.
Great job !! I would pay extra to backfill with all gravel instead of dirt.
great stuff! Thanks
I’m a commercial waterproofer with over 20 years experience. Great advice. Don’t cheap on waterproofing your foundation. And don’t use dry lock. It will just cost you more to remove it later.
Amen work smarter not harder!!
Anyone who doesn't understand how import each step is here has never had water in their basement.
Yep. Think about it: nearly every step of constructing a house is thinking about moisture. French drains for the footer, leaks in a basement, vapor barrier over floor of crawl space, sill plate sealant (subfloor), Tyvek (walls), air barriers (fighting mold in walls), gutters, peel n stick and watershield and flashing for the roof, grade level to flow water away from house, dehumidifiers (internal moisture control). There's a reason: moisture = rot, mold, insects, leaks, and ruined insulation. It's the #1 way your house can be ruined.
You never forget when you basement gets flooded
Looks great to see, it also sounds right. Why try and go back and replace it.
I almost bought a place like this the whole basement suite was 3 walls underground and it had a moist smell in it which I am sure was due to not being 100% water tight.
Built 6 years ago and used a similar product called Rub-R-Wall with a dimple mat. The rubber is able to stretch slightly for small cracks. Came with a lifetime warranty. Hopefully I never need to find out if they honour it.
I like this system alot !
Would adding blueskin after the role on doable on top of that to add one extra layer of protection?
I'm also wondering about the application of this if you were to go with an ICF basement / first floor. Will the roll-on Polywall properly bond to the foam without degrading it? If it DOES then it seems it would make for a very nice extra protective layer to the outer foam insulation.
Hey Just watching this video. Excellent video tutorial and products. I have a older CapeCod with Cinderblock and would love to do this.
Why not run the PollyWall rubberized coat up to or beyond grade?
The dimple mat, being plastic, will degrade in the sun and exposure. The rubberized coating may not be necessary to go that high. But, I too was wondering about that detail.
I figured the gray color change was so it would look ok painting up the whole foundation wall.
Whst would you recommend for a wood basement coating? Henry Blue skin WP200 is what I'm looking at. Grest video as always!
I was just searching for this information yesterday and was disappointed at the results. Thanks!! What would you do to finish the interior side to make it a living space? Also what about exterior insulation?
Hi Matt. Just love the dream videos
Like the multi-part system for multi-tier water abatement. But after all these measures are applied; can you add additional exterior insulation - exterior grade to help further insulate basement? How do you protect that from water intrusion?
great solution!
It would be interesting to interview a landscaping contractor and see how much they consider about drainage, swales, sloping and water movement when they come in after a home is built.
When doing landscaping you need to maintain a 1/4" slope away from the house.
Matt, quick question, can you add insulation to existing walls of the foundation after you roll on the Home Stretch™ Liquid Waterproofing (Gray)? If so could you do a video on what to use and how you would attach it without messing up the Home Stretch™ Liquid Waterproofing. It would be nice to understand the sequence of events.....Home Stretch™ Liquid Waterproofing, insulated foam panels, Arroyo™ Drain Board, add french drain at footing. Thanks
What’s your favorite way to protect tubs during construction?? Would love to see a video on protecting tubs, windows, doors
Quick question. Other than cost is there any reason you can't put a second layer of the gray waterproofing on and would it be beneficial or not? Thanks
Hi, would you compact the back fill every 2 feet? Thanks
The concrete is going to crack and when it does, even the best roll-ons won’t save you. If you’re in an area that has anything less than stellar drainage, having a drainage mat is incredibly important.
Amen. Spend money keeping water away, not from seeping thru.
@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb that's why when we do basement walls we have spray on tar and then 8 mil plastic applied and then two inches of foam on top of that and then backfill the foundation with nothing but Stone with drain pipes at the bottom.
If you build a good foundation it will span the crack. Look at the deformation of the product.
Nice way to waterproof!
Got a suggestion to use in the shower for waterproofing before installing tile? I’m gonna use a tile backer and then wanted to apply some waterproof paint and not the Orange sheets
What about adding rigid foam insulation between the rubberized coating and the dimple board?
i want more. i want to see videos about basement dewatering retrofit stuff.
I'd like to see the detail at the ground level and the top of the dimple mat.
I have a house now that was built in the 60's. Foundation is solid and the basement walls are CMU through and through. Laid flat and solid. But it's clear that whoever built this place skimped on the waterproofing.
Now, I get to borrow a front loader and dig a 4' wide 8' deep trench for 60 feet, and fix it the right way.
Thank god for videos like these that give me a solid starting point.
How did your project go?
@@KidFreshie Still waiting to do it. Surprisingly, it's not the most household project ai have.
@@AndrewDeLong Good luck to you! I'm embarking on this soon for my cabin. Looking for insight from people who have done it before.
Rumor has it that since that 911 beep, Matt has tried to avoid basement builds to this day.
Texas as florida has too high ground water and floods, so in practic they dont design basments, and as we all know, Matt started his career not in texas so that stroy might be somewhere else
You can build under water but always use a self-healing geosynthetic Sodium Bentonite layer like NAUE Bentofix® X
Of course, he doesn't need the liability.
For a basement to make sense it needs to be in well drained soil. If you have to excavate rock and deal with water problems, it's not economical square footage.
Great video Matt, awesome info from Jake as well. I had a question? can you use the waterproof coat inside the basement ?
Always best to keep the water out instead of blocking it in.
But there is a large investment to do the outside but really worth it.
You gain insulation value in the wall from drying it and you prolong it's life from rusting rebar away, cracking, frost damadge, mineral depositing that causes the concrete over the years to weaken and crumble. And the innside then gets easy to insulate further and without rotting and water damadge.
Some have innside "french drain" where the floor circumference is hacked away and drilled holes to the outside to drain the outside.
And you still need to water and damp proof the wall innside 100% before doing anything since the wall will still be wet
I'm curious about the fluid applied membrane's ability to accommodate shrinkage cracks (or differential settlement cracks...) in the concrete which will inevitably show up. How large a crack can the material withstand before it ruptures?
Love the belt and suspenders approach. Agree 100%. The cost of removing landscaping, fences, concrete walks, etc. to access a crack can far exceed the cost of adding a measure of redundancy in the system.
Thanks
Matt I have been watching your basement waterproofing and they are great thanks for addressing this important aspect of basement building. I have been remodeling and building for about 20 yrs but have never had to do a basement. They are very uncommon in this area but I have a client that wants a basement. I understand everything but I need some more detail on the french drain.
I'm building an in-ground basement and I don't know how deep the ditch for the french drain needs to be and where to get the filter cloth. I'm lucky in that I only live about 75 miles south of Enis and I have talked to Polywall already and they are very helpful but they won't talk about the french drain. Can you help or recommend someone I could talk too?
Thanks for the info. Do your recommend 2 or more sump pumps that will catch any water that might seep through the floor?
I do. If your basement needs a sump pump, just install 2 for redundancy, because if one fails, you're done for.
Is this the same method if you did a basement dig out and wanted waterproofing?
Hey Matt do you have any videos for passive house for mobile homes or even tiny homes . I want to incorporate the best practices for Texas build homes
Would you use the same system on a conditioned crawl space which is really like a mini-basement?
can polywall joint filler 2200 be used on a basement interior at the cold joint between the basement floor and the wall to prevent cove joint seepage?
hi matt , can thepoly wall product be rolled onto any surface , or only concrete ?
If you completely wrap the footer pipe in the filter fabric, unless you are in very sandy soil like Florida (and IMO you should use Easyflow), the filter fabric will retard the water from entering the footer pipe and with clay type soils over a short time will seal off the footer pipe because the filter fabric will become clogged with fine silt. The proper way is gravel, footer pipe with holes pointed down, a layer of filter fabric loosely covering the top of the footer pipe, and gravel to grade. Do not encase the perforated pipe in fabric.
JW do y'all have radon in Texas?
how many coats of the exterior poly wall material should you apply ?
Why wouldn't you want to extend the basement waterproofing to the sill plate and extend something like the prosoco fast flash down top of the polywall. Aren't we always trying to ensure continuity of the control layers? I have no experience with this, just curious.
Above ground gets plenty of air to dry out with. The issue underground is that the water sitting next to the foundation has time to seep through over days and weeks. Then you get into UV rays and other environmental issues above ground (careless weed trimmer usage) that make or break the budget when it comes to using a single material layer all the way to the sill plate.
Proseco as I understand it is NOT a below ground product
I have to say you are so right fella. Shame your contractor buddies will always cheap out the job. Also. having holes on the bottom will always be the ticket. When you drill holes on the top and do not deburr the holes you are actually insuring the bur will cut the membrane fabric over time and cause clogging. Using your fingers to remove the swarf bur cuttings created is most certainly not the ticket. But your multi method I would say is spot on. Great video too fella. VF
I have had 2 basement leaks, nothing major in my house in the 4 years I have had it. 1 was because a gutter was clogged at the front corner...easy fix. The other is a persistent drip of water (in long medium / heavy rains) in the utility corner of the basement. I have tried a couple things to lesson this but nothing has worked yet. I think I am SOL since destroying the patio to dig down 6 feet would be super expensive. The leak is 6-30oz of water each heavy rain. Great to know how to build if I do build a house in the future!
I have used Waterplug hydraulic cement for leak repair, very successfully. Not a surface coating, it is intended for specific water passages that must be stopped. Sets very fast, everything at cool temperatures is essential. Worth a try.
Home Depot has a competitor product:
www.homedepot.com/p/DRYLOK-Fast-Plug-10-lb-Hydraulic-Cement-00924/100171483
I live in a relatively wet, high water table area that is also subjected to earthquakes periodically. I need a base isolation system + effective water proofing/sealant for the basement. How do you combine the two engineering challenges?
Hi
What size thick roller would you be using for this application?
Jake i thought you liked the Tremco tuff and dri system (liquid plus insulated drain board ?)
Great looking system. I am curious what your thoughts are on the roll on versus say the soprema or blueskin foundation membrane. Or is just preference.
Polywall paid $ to Matt. He says at the beginning.
Do you add clean outs to the surface?
Does the footing and foundation also have waterproofing membrane?
Wont the wall still absorb moisture through the footing? Maybe i missed it, was there a moisture barrier under the footing. No bulk water, but concrete will wick moisture if any is present.
Do you also need to water proof the other side of the basement wall?
Is this coating similar to Gaco patch? A siliconized industrial roof coating.
Is this product suitable for a cistern for potable water?
and now I'm going to dig up my 60yo foundation and fix my current issues. any sponsors want to help?
is safe to assume its only meant to be used on concrete or permeable surfaces?