Recently ran into single stage on my customer's 1987 Toyota Cressida. I was a little freaked out at first but it was actually easier to work with, much to my surprise
Thanks for watching and commenting. Single stage, for several reasons, tends to be really easy to correct. At a minimum, having a visual on pad load to help you know when/how often to clean or swap pads is easier. Hope the old Toyota came out to the customers liking!
Another great vlog I’ve been wondering about polishing single stage solid colours as most work is shown relating to clear coat , can you still confidently do a cut and finish 2 stage polish on a single stage paint ? Thanks again for great content 👍🏻
Thanks for watching and commenting Matthew. Yes - you absolutely still can do a multi-stage correction, sanding, polishing, etc. on a single-stage paint job just like you would with a base/clear paint job. The same rules apply, mainly ensuring you have enough material to work with!
Awesome! My question is I have a 1973 Alfa Romeo GTV coming into the polished in 2 weeks it had a repaint at maaco four years ago on only four of the panels on the car it is a single stage paint my question is actually twofold mako makes her own paint so it's not exact color match I'm betting and two when I'm polishing the car on a almost 40 year old car that has some original paint and some mako paint is maaco paint as strong as original is it weaker is there a different way I should polish should I expect if I'm polishing the car that I should be able to come up with a uniform appearance across the car or should I expect it to have two different levels of finish on the repainted panels versus the original panels? Thanks as always.👍🙂
Thanks for commenting. Wish we could answer that question, but there are so many variables it is impossible to know until you actually do some test spots on the car. Not every Maaco location sprays the same paint brand and they likely haven't used the same paint over the years. Paint is a variable that you cannot really take guesses at. The best advice is to test your process on each panel and evaluate based on the result.
The follow up question is if the pads are usable on other colors after you got color transfer. I did a correction on an old red Toyota with single stage paint. How hard I clean them I still have some discoloring in my white rupes foam pads. Are they safe to use on clear coat or other single stage colors?
What is the best way to prime each class of polishing pads and the best way to deep clean them after using them and cleaning them with the claw tool and compressed air?
Great questions and thanks for commenting. There are videos coming that address both questions very specifically, but in the meantime give this DA Systems webinar a watch. There is a whole segment on pad priming for our new systems. th-cam.com/video/tUoTMl2HZfc/w-d-xo.html We also have a resource on our site for priming with the current systems too: rupesusa.com/how-to-prime-rupes-polishing-pads/ For cleaning, check out this quick tutorial clip on our website: rupesusa.com/how-to-clean-rupes-polishing-pads/
Thanks for watching and commenting Will. As the video indicates, you have similar residue load on a pad whether you're buffing clear coat or single stage, the only difference is that the single stage load is visible because of the pigment. It is a mental hurdle for many technicians because the visible load seems like it is so extreme, but in reality the loading is pretty much the same when you're on clear... you just can't see it, because its clear! So to your question specifically our D-A wool pads are amazing on any type of surface; single stage, clear coat, gel coat, and more! Happy buffing!
Certainly something we can look at creating a new video for. If you haven't watched it yet, our Nano webinar from awhile back does a great job of explaining the tool in great detail and providing guidance for each type of functional unit attachment: th-cam.com/video/_nqcbgMn5RQ/w-d-xo.html
RUPES thats great I was looking back to see if they’re was one in could only find an unboxing, be good to see simple instruction and explanation about the different throws etc, thanks for the link I’ll check that out 👍🏻
Nice, I got a cheap repaint on the hood of my citroen and my mechanic who took it in sais that the paint for my car has the clear coat mixed in with the paint, I assume that means its a single stage paint then!
Nick P thanks for the comment! Nothing wrong with using the 15 or 21 for sanding, just remember that the orbit size dictates rate of material removal. Sanding with a large orbit will remove material quickly. Keep your sanding cycles short and controlled, monitor/inspect progress frequently.
The process and details of the policy varies by region, but in all cases on all tools the coverage is 12 months from the date of purchase against original manufacturing defects.
Thanks for commenting. We don’t comment on products in development or what we might be working on. Too many competitors watching and waiting to copy our products.
Thanks for the comment Curtis - really a hard question to answer without knowing all the variables, and there are MANY! True 'buffer trails' are a symptom of rotary polishing and difficult to avoid without a lot of experience. If you're experiencing what you think are trails with any other type of tool it is likely something else, like dry buffing at the edges, compound residues, hazing, etc.
RUPES Thank you for replying and I’m using your yellow pad on the lhr15 priming it for thirty seconds then two drops after a 2’ by 2’ is done I use your claw brush to clean the pads and a few drop reapplied
Curtis Boe maybe a result of over cycling the compound and “dry buffing”, but just a guess. For more specific and detailed help go to the contact us page on our website and send us an email. We’ll get someone to help troubleshoot.
Hey guys quick question I have a ibrid nano it feels like it takes forever to correct paint?? Im using it on DA and not with rotary attachment. Whats the best way to use the nano if you can do a vid be 👍
Thanks for the question - you'll see a video about this soon actually, but in the meantime we'll address the most common mistakes we see with the nano. There are 2 orbital attachments included with your nano. One is blue (3mm) and one is red (12mm). Many people make the mistake of running the blue 3mm attachment with the intention of correcting paint and that small orbit is actually only suitable for spot sanding (or very very very minor correction). In most cases we find when someone is having problems correcting with the nano its because they are using it with the incorrect attachment for the application.
Very strange. You may want to check with whomever you purchased it from. All the full kits come with all 3 attachments standard. The basic kits ONLY include the red attachment, so if you purchased new from an authorized seller as an official RUPES kit you should have the red version no matter what.
![Why is White the Best Color for a Wash Bay? - [RUPES Replies Episode 008]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PnD7i2Ncrc4/mqdefault.jpg)
![Why is White the Best Color for a Wash Bay? - [RUPES Replies Episode 008]](/img/tr.png)
![Polishing Difficult to Finish Paint - [RUPES Replies Season 02 Episode 02]](/img/n.gif)
As always thank you for the short but full of info clips.
Thanks for watching and commenting! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Recently ran into single stage on my customer's 1987 Toyota Cressida. I was a little freaked out at first but it was actually easier to work with, much to my surprise
Thanks for watching and commenting. Single stage, for several reasons, tends to be really easy to correct. At a minimum, having a visual on pad load to help you know when/how often to clean or swap pads is easier. Hope the old Toyota came out to the customers liking!
Another great vlog I’ve been wondering about polishing single stage solid colours as most work is shown relating to clear coat , can you still confidently do a cut and finish 2 stage polish on a single stage paint ? Thanks again for great content 👍🏻
Thanks for watching and commenting Matthew. Yes - you absolutely still can do a multi-stage correction, sanding, polishing, etc. on a single-stage paint job just like you would with a base/clear paint job. The same rules apply, mainly ensuring you have enough material to work with!
Exactly what i was here to ask 👍
Awesome! My question is I have a 1973 Alfa Romeo GTV coming into the polished in 2 weeks it had a repaint at maaco four years ago on only four of the panels on the car it is a single stage paint my question is actually twofold mako makes her own paint so it's not exact color match I'm betting and two when I'm polishing the car on a almost 40 year old car that has some original paint and some mako paint is maaco paint as strong as original is it weaker is there a different way I should polish should I expect if I'm polishing the car that I should be able to come up with a uniform appearance across the car or should I expect it to have two different levels of finish on the repainted panels versus the original panels? Thanks as always.👍🙂
Thanks for commenting. Wish we could answer that question, but there are so many variables it is impossible to know until you actually do some test spots on the car. Not every Maaco location sprays the same paint brand and they likely haven't used the same paint over the years. Paint is a variable that you cannot really take guesses at. The best advice is to test your process on each panel and evaluate based on the result.
The follow up question is if the pads are usable on other colors after you got color transfer. I did a correction on an old red Toyota with single stage paint. How hard I clean them I still have some discoloring in my white rupes foam pads. Are they safe to use on clear coat or other single stage colors?
Assuming you clean the pads properly after use then some staining from previous use is not an issue.
What is the best way to prime each class of polishing pads and the best way to deep clean them after using them and cleaning them with the claw tool and compressed air?
Great questions and thanks for commenting. There are videos coming that address both questions very specifically, but in the meantime give this DA Systems webinar a watch. There is a whole segment on pad priming for our new systems. th-cam.com/video/tUoTMl2HZfc/w-d-xo.html
We also have a resource on our site for priming with the current systems too: rupesusa.com/how-to-prime-rupes-polishing-pads/
For cleaning, check out this quick tutorial clip on our website: rupesusa.com/how-to-clean-rupes-polishing-pads/
Would wool pads be recommended for single stage paint? Pretty discouraged with all the gunk on the pads after a couple minutes of buffing.
Thanks for watching and commenting Will. As the video indicates, you have similar residue load on a pad whether you're buffing clear coat or single stage, the only difference is that the single stage load is visible because of the pigment. It is a mental hurdle for many technicians because the visible load seems like it is so extreme, but in reality the loading is pretty much the same when you're on clear... you just can't see it, because its clear!
So to your question specifically our D-A wool pads are amazing on any type of surface; single stage, clear coat, gel coat, and more! Happy buffing!
Any chance of an ibrid demo and overview of each parts use when and how to use it ? Thanks
Certainly something we can look at creating a new video for. If you haven't watched it yet, our Nano webinar from awhile back does a great job of explaining the tool in great detail and providing guidance for each type of functional unit attachment:
th-cam.com/video/_nqcbgMn5RQ/w-d-xo.html
RUPES thats great I was looking back to see if they’re was one in could only find an unboxing, be good to see simple instruction and explanation about the different throws etc, thanks for the link I’ll check that out 👍🏻
very useful video
Thanks a lot. Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Nice, I got a cheap repaint on the hood of my citroen and my mechanic who took it in sais that the paint for my car has the clear coat mixed in with the paint, I assume that means its a single stage paint then!
Not single stage, but likely a tinted clear coat where a small amount of pigment has been added to the clear.
@@RUPES Oh okay thanks!
Why or why not would it be a good idea to sand with the 15 or 21. I’m mainly talking about my 15 with foamed 3000 with interface. Thanks
Nick P thanks for the comment!
Nothing wrong with using the 15 or 21 for sanding, just remember that the orbit size dictates rate of material removal. Sanding with a large orbit will remove material quickly. Keep your sanding cycles short and controlled, monitor/inspect progress frequently.
What exactly does the warranty/out of warranty repair consist of on electric polishers and the nano?
The process and details of the policy varies by region, but in all cases on all tools the coverage is 12 months from the date of purchase against original manufacturing defects.
Is rupes doing any changes or upgrades to the mini or duetto ?
Thanks for commenting. We don’t comment on products in development or what we might be working on. Too many competitors watching and waiting to copy our products.
If there is touch up paint repair on the car, can that stain the pad?
How do you minimise buffer trail and what am I doing wrong especially on dark colour cars
Thanks for the comment Curtis - really a hard question to answer without knowing all the variables, and there are MANY! True 'buffer trails' are a symptom of rotary polishing and difficult to avoid without a lot of experience. If you're experiencing what you think are trails with any other type of tool it is likely something else, like dry buffing at the edges, compound residues, hazing, etc.
RUPES Thank you for replying and I’m using your yellow pad on the lhr15 priming it for thirty seconds then two drops after a 2’ by 2’ is done I use your claw brush to clean the pads and a few drop reapplied
Curtis Boe maybe a result of over cycling the compound and “dry buffing”, but just a guess. For more specific and detailed help go to the contact us page on our website and send us an email. We’ll get someone to help troubleshoot.
Hey guys quick question I have a ibrid nano it feels like it takes forever to correct paint?? Im using it on DA and not with rotary attachment. Whats the best way to use the nano if you can do a vid be 👍
Thanks for the question - you'll see a video about this soon actually, but in the meantime we'll address the most common mistakes we see with the nano. There are 2 orbital attachments included with your nano. One is blue (3mm) and one is red (12mm). Many people make the mistake of running the blue 3mm attachment with the intention of correcting paint and that small orbit is actually only suitable for spot sanding (or very very very minor correction). In most cases we find when someone is having problems correcting with the nano its because they are using it with the incorrect attachment for the application.
@@RUPES many thanks for addressing my question, i dont have a red attachment with mine it came with just a green and blue??
Very strange. You may want to check with whomever you purchased it from. All the full kits come with all 3 attachments standard. The basic kits ONLY include the red attachment, so if you purchased new from an authorized seller as an official RUPES kit you should have the red version no matter what.
Look forward to seeing the video
@@RUPES also is the nano more effective on the rotary or the DA attachment?
Best thing to do for lacquer is the Meguires #7 treatment . Before any machine polishing ,
👍👍👌👌👍👍👌👌
You forget to explain how polish single stage 😏