Hi Bill. Good job and now I will probably have to do the same on my tock , thats a lot of bloody work. The only thing that I might suggest is that when you cut off the buffers maybe drill a hole in the shank and the back of the buffer and push a bit of brass rod into the hole. Then glue them on. They will then be less likely to pop off when handling them. The Triang Caledonian coaches are very pretty but look to suffer with a common Triang coach problem. With age the roofs begin to bow up and bend , I have seen this on many of their coaches and it is due to age and the type of plastic used. Maybe in time you could replace them and then paint them white as well. Otherwise a very imformative video , thanks. Well done. Regards.
When I had 00 Gauge i fitted all my coaches with corridor connectors (and passengers) - looked great and added much realism removing the unrealistic gap between coaches. I got mine from a variety of sources including eBay. The ones I used were mainly made from paper. One can make them oneself and there are some diagrams on the internet as to how to do this. The coaches did not derail and worked equally well forwards and backwards.
There are two "settings" for buffers on coaches with buckeyes. To connect to a screw coupling the buffers have to be pulled out and collars fitted over the extension. It can be hard work! I hate buckeyeing coaches.
Fab Couplings Solution, looking really Good. Have been chatting Coaches earlier today saying that there are bargains to be had, but a Fiver Each!! Come on Down !! 😂 Cheers Bill 👍🏻
Thanks for this, I share your liking for Mainline coaches, I don't have many, and as you say, some benefit from a wheel change others are okay. The magnetic coupling feature is very helpful, I haven't gone down this route so far, I have used Kaydee on some of my more modern stock, they represent the Buckeye very well, but as a lot of my railway items are Triang or Hornby Dublo, I'm reluctant to start chopping the couplings about, but maybe on some of my later coaching stock it could have a place.
A long time ago, I bought a lot of "Tri-ang Hornby" coaches (from many different sources) and the main problem I found with them was the axle location holes (in the bogies) were worn allowing the wheel set to sit higher in the bogie and sometimes touch the bottom of the bogie itself. The only solution was to replace the bogies and fit metal wheels. They ran pretty good after this and the 'switch' was not really noticeable !
I replace the mainline tension links with bachmann short 36-025 couplings for mating with engines; they look like NEM tension link couplings. My local shop, buffers in Axminster, has nem pockets to fit to mainline / Hornby tension link brackets. I also bought magnetic couplings designed to fit the mainline /triang couplings. Nice to see the Caledonian coaches running.
I am new to your very interesting channel. I am an N gauger and am interested in the magnetic couplings but don't know who supplies them. I understand they are made for all scales.
You might be able to clear up some of that yellowing on the Caledonian coach by dunking it in hydrogen peroxide solution for a few hours on a sunny day or under a UV light - it does wonders for old white and grey Lego that's gone yellow and doesn't harm the printing so long as you don't leave it in for ages and ages (at least on Lego). There are lots of videos about the process on TH-cam.
Why do the coaches go so far out of line when going round tight curves or points 🤔 is it to do with the position of the bogies🤔 if so why are they made that way, not very realistic. Well done Bill very informative, thanks for all your videos
It's because the radius of model railway curves is massively out of scale compared to the real thing. It has to be that way to be able to fit a typical layout into a reasonably modest indoor space. Because of the tighter radius of curve the bogies need to move much more than the real thing and the coaches in turn swing out much more.
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I’d personally get a Mainline Buffet coach. Coach rakes usually had just one brake in each formation.
Hi Bill. Good job and now I will probably have to do the same on my tock , thats a lot of bloody work. The only thing that I might suggest is that when you cut off the buffers maybe drill a hole in the shank and the back of the buffer and push a bit of brass rod into the hole. Then glue them on. They will then be less likely to pop off when handling them. The Triang Caledonian coaches are very pretty but look to suffer with a common Triang coach problem. With age the roofs begin to bow up and bend , I have seen this on many of their coaches and it is due to age and the type of plastic used. Maybe in time you could replace them and then paint them white as well. Otherwise a very imformative video , thanks. Well done. Regards.
3 coach rakes are a necessity for many - if not most - people in our hobby. But running / watching 6 coach rakes is an absolute joy.
Love the name of your pub "the Gnomes legs" is there a sign at the door saying beware low ceilings? 😂
The sign says "Duck, or Grouse" :-D
When I had 00 Gauge i fitted all my coaches with corridor connectors (and passengers) - looked great and added much realism removing the unrealistic gap between coaches. I got mine from a variety of sources including eBay. The ones I used were mainly made from paper. One can make them oneself and there are some diagrams on the internet as to how to do this. The coaches did not derail and worked equally well forwards and backwards.
The buffer idea is actually more accurate with MK1/2/3's, whenever you see them coupled (with buckeyes anyway) the buffers are always pulled way back
There are two "settings" for buffers on coaches with buckeyes. To connect to a screw coupling the buffers have to be pulled out and collars fitted over the extension. It can be hard work! I hate buckeyeing coaches.
Fab Couplings Solution, looking really Good. Have been chatting Coaches earlier today saying that there are bargains to be had, but a Fiver Each!! Come on Down !! 😂 Cheers Bill 👍🏻
Thanks for this, I share your liking for Mainline coaches, I don't have many, and as you say, some benefit from a wheel change others are okay. The magnetic coupling feature is very helpful, I haven't gone down this route so far, I have used Kaydee on some of my more modern stock, they represent the Buckeye very well, but as a lot of my railway items are Triang or Hornby Dublo, I'm reluctant to start chopping the couplings about, but maybe on some of my later coaching stock it could have a place.
A long time ago, I bought a lot of "Tri-ang Hornby" coaches (from many different sources) and the main problem I found with them was the axle location holes (in the bogies) were worn allowing the wheel set to sit higher in the bogie and sometimes touch the bottom of the bogie itself.
The only solution was to replace the bogies and fit metal wheels.
They ran pretty good after this and the 'switch' was not really noticeable !
I replace the mainline tension links with bachmann short 36-025 couplings for mating with engines; they look like NEM tension link couplings. My local shop, buffers in Axminster, has nem pockets to fit to mainline / Hornby tension link brackets. I also bought magnetic couplings designed to fit the mainline /triang couplings. Nice to see the Caledonian coaches running.
Hey neighbour! Buffers is my local too!
I am new to your very interesting channel. I am an N gauger and am interested in the magnetic couplings but don't know who supplies them. I understand they are made for all scales.
thank you for this vid, this will help me with some of my second-hand coaches which i have issues with , cheers
Good work bill
You might be able to clear up some of that yellowing on the Caledonian coach by dunking it in hydrogen peroxide solution for a few hours on a sunny day or under a UV light - it does wonders for old white and grey Lego that's gone yellow and doesn't harm the printing so long as you don't leave it in for ages and ages (at least on Lego). There are lots of videos about the process on TH-cam.
Why do the coaches go so far out of line when going round tight curves or points 🤔 is it to do with the position of the bogies🤔 if so why are they made that way, not very realistic. Well done Bill very informative, thanks for all your videos
It's because the radius of model railway curves is massively out of scale compared to the real thing. It has to be that way to be able to fit a typical layout into a reasonably modest indoor space. Because of the tighter radius of curve the bogies need to move much more than the real thing and the coaches in turn swing out much more.
@@oobill Thanks for the info I’ll bear that in mind when doing by layout should I ever be allowed 😂😂 doing it by stealth 🥷 start small 😂😂
When glueing plastic try superglue on one surface and Evostik on the other - makes a much better bond. (Works withother things and not just plastic).
This might be obvious but when you were changing the coupling on the Triang, why was it the wrong end you were working on ?
Hello the magnetizer you have is this item available to purchase if so. where did you purchase this item?
Have you thought about adding gangways to your coaches?
From this and other videos I take away that the universal spare part is the cable tie!
Looks like you need restaurant or buffet coaches.
£5 each! Great bargain 🎉