Excellent video sir! Very Very helpful.Very well explained,,,and no obnoxious music in the background! I have an 04 Escape that I'll be doing u joints and a carrier bearing on. The u joints don't seem to be bad on initial inspection but I'm going to replace them anyway,,the vehicle is crowding 300k miles pretty hard. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Just got mine done on my 2012 escape, thank you for the video if its wasn't for you I would never try to attempt this job. It would've have cost me hundreds to take it to a shop and have them do it.. I only spend $20 on this job the seal was $13 at O'Reilly and a T45 torqe bit was $5 dollars and some hour for me to do it... thank you again your video helped me out a lot
Thanks for the video. I wish your camera had stayed working as I was mostly interested in drive shaft removal/install without having ball bearings hit the floor. I am replacing my K-frame(engine cradle) on my 2012 Ford Escape. I will concur, Brian on the FordTechMakuloco is a great Ford Tech and a good Guy. He provided me with info on the job. Strongly recommend his channel for Escape info (and Ford in general).
I remember the day I was filming this repair and we had a couple of power outages. What a pain in the rear that was but pushed on. Just remember when giving that CV a couple of light hammer smacks to break it free have your other hand on the CV to keep the cage together. Then as it separates from the differential and slowly lower it to the ground. Have a plastic bag ready to wrap it up and keep the grease from oozing and making a mess. Good luck with the repair, sounds like your Escape might have some rusty crusty K frame issues?
@@ozzstars_cars Yes, the K-frame had rusted through on the passengers side along where the K-frame follows the curve of the control arm. Three spots where covered with surface rust and when I chipped that away, holes through the metal started to show through. The other side of the k frame on the passengers side also had rusted through. I though about getting it welded (which I'm not set up for) as that would have been ok for a season, but decided as I had already removed control arm, hub/bearing/knucle, and strut, the car wasn't going anywhere too fast. So I decided to get the K-frame and try it myself. I liked you video as it showed the process of removing the drive shaft very well, so thank you for that. TH-cam has videos of rusted out K-frames that are much worse (and dangerous to my mind)
@@bwuepper439 the good thing is you found a serious structural defect before there became a serious safety problem. Did you buy a used junkyard k frame?
@@ozzstars_cars No, I looked online and found a Ford site that has OEM parts. Their price was reasonable ($340) and shipping was about $28. They are a Ford Dealership in WI near Milwaukee. They were great to work with. Only took a couple of days to receive the K-frame. I would rather get a new Ford part for something critical like this than a unknown part from junkyard.
I just got an Escape 2003. Near the same tranny case. I THINK the case is bad. As I slow down from 30 to 15 it goes WOOPWOOPWOOPWOOP. No shake in wheel or tires. Car handles amazing otherwise. Giving gas has a slight grindy sound at first. Oh yea. This seal is also spitting stuff all over. So. I think my case might even be bad. Thoughts? Needa check fluid of course..
I just did mine .. I dint know the torque for the 27mm nut so I just put 110lbs I hope that's enough... 30lbs for the 6 holding the front and 15 lbs on the 4 10mm bolts.. I hope that's OK...
Great camera work OZZ. We were so close I paused to put safety glasses on. Some of them bolts came out pretty easy. Chaos must be on vacation. LOL doug
You explain your work and the process well. "No three minute videos here". That's funny and it's hard to keep videos down to under 5 minutes. Three minutes is near impossible. Nice work.
Good thing you caught the battery when you did, or it might have been a 3 minute seal replacement! For me it's always the lav mic. I get these awesome shots of me explaining.....nothing.
Great Video! what torque spec did you use on the 6 torx bolts on the PTU, the 2 on the carrier bearing/support and the 4 on the U-joint at the rear diff? I can't seem to find these numbers anywhere! any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Good stuff again Ozz. Tell me, do you have a vid on replacing the rear main seal on the Vette? Curious to see since I will probably change it when I do the clutch.
New front seal is installed dry? Did not see you put or hear you mention putting any silicone or lube of any type on new seal. Is that correct? Thanks for your time
Hey Ozz, great video I had some major drive-ability issues this morning and had to take my 09 ford escape to pep boys for the fast diagnostics i could, due to the outbreak and the weekend. So what they showed me underneath was a some play from where the drive shaft connects to the PTU. They had told me the bearing in the PTU need to be replaced. Does this sound right to you? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you
If you are experiencing vibration that could be the issue. I can't tell you over the internet unfortunately. How much is some play? The ptu gears tend to wear out if the gear oil isn't changed regularly like every 30k miles. How many miles does your Escape have?
@@ozzstars_cars I actually just changed it last month. It did wiggle. It is vibrating also. I think I was wondering if maybe it was more likely a drive shaft issue rather than a ptu bearing problem. I have had no luck this afternoon finding any part called a ptu bearing. The guy at pep boys couldn't find it online either.
@@ozzstars_cars sorry about that i must ha e missed it. I am trying to replace the drive shaft on my 2013 ford escape and i don't think i have the right size bit for the torx bolts would you know what size they would be.
I know its a old video hopefully someone can help... how long can a guy go with it leaking? I just discovered a little puddle last night maybe a oz or 2.
haha I do have a passion for cool T-shirts but nobody ever sends them to me. I buy my own. The plane in the vid was landing at (BNA) Nashville Tenn. International Airport....the closest commercial airport for me to get to Bowling Green Kentucky (about 1 hr drive)......the birthplace of every new Corvette since 1981.
I did the seal and after a ride when i Check it with a light it looks shining at the edge is it normal? Theres no dropes and when check it by hand there is no oil leaking
Ozzstar yes there is gear oil in it , but i was wondering if it is normal to look shiny at the first drive , may be after a while it will be completly dry and no shining at all in the edges of the axle shaft, what do you think?
Great video! I have a question about my 05 Escape AWD. My driveshaft completely separated from the PTU where that main rear seal is imgur.com/a/p8SYksz. Do you think the whole PTU will need to be replaced? Thanks man!
@@ozzstars_cars Dang, thanks for the quick reply. Will do when I have time! I'll try to update the comment with what I find / solution. Your video is going to help me a lot, thanks again.
@@ozzstars_cars so, been working om removing the driveshaft for the last few hours. I can't back the driveshaft out enough for the CV joint to clear the housing. Seems the driveshaft is stuck where the u joint meets the carrier bearing. Took the saddles off but the driveshaft is not budging. Any ideas? Thanks man!
@@davisgarth10 use a hammer and tap the yoke of the drive shaft where the saddles were. Seperate the driveshaft from the center carrier bearing. HOLD the shaft with your free hand while doing this because it will fall out. Then slide the cv end out and away.
Not a good battery day, the electricity went out during the middle of the job. Not much cursing on this one the shaft popped right out. Getting the seal out was the hardest part. Fairly easy job. Thanks for watching
Excellent video sir! Very Very helpful.Very well explained,,,and no obnoxious music in the background! I have an 04 Escape that I'll be doing u joints and a carrier bearing on. The u joints don't seem to be bad on initial inspection but I'm going to replace them anyway,,the vehicle is crowding 300k miles pretty hard. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
@@roycarstensen2537 glad to hear the video was helpful. Thanks for stopping by Roy!
Working under the car with a camera is never easy. Good Job.
thanks man. if only i had a car lift, how much better life would be!
That would be nice.
Just got mine done on my 2012 escape, thank you for the video if its wasn't for you I would never try to attempt this job. It would've have cost me hundreds to take it to a shop and have them do it.. I only spend $20 on this job the seal was $13 at O'Reilly and a T45 torqe bit was $5 dollars and some hour for me to do it... thank you again your video helped me out a lot
You're welcome. -Ozz
Thanks for the video. I wish your camera had stayed working as I was mostly interested in drive shaft removal/install without having ball bearings hit the floor. I am replacing my K-frame(engine cradle) on my 2012 Ford Escape. I will concur, Brian on the FordTechMakuloco is a great Ford Tech and a good Guy. He provided me with info on the job. Strongly recommend his channel for Escape info (and Ford in general).
I remember the day I was filming this repair and we had a couple of power outages. What a pain in the rear that was but pushed on. Just remember when giving that CV a couple of light hammer smacks to break it free have your other hand on the CV to keep the cage together. Then as it separates from the differential and slowly lower it to the ground. Have a plastic bag ready to wrap it up and keep the grease from oozing and making a mess. Good luck with the repair, sounds like your Escape might have some rusty crusty K frame issues?
@@ozzstars_cars Yes, the K-frame had rusted through on the passengers side along where the K-frame follows the curve of the control arm. Three spots where covered with surface rust and when I chipped that away, holes through the metal started to show through. The other side of the k frame on the passengers side also had rusted through. I though about getting it welded (which I'm not set up for) as that would have been ok for a season, but decided as I had already removed control arm, hub/bearing/knucle, and strut, the car wasn't going anywhere too fast. So I decided to get the K-frame and try it myself. I liked you video as it showed the process of removing the drive shaft very well, so thank you for that. TH-cam has videos of rusted out K-frames that are much worse (and dangerous to my mind)
@@bwuepper439 the good thing is you found a serious structural defect before there became a serious safety problem. Did you buy a used junkyard k frame?
@@ozzstars_cars No, I looked online and found a Ford site that has OEM parts. Their price was reasonable ($340) and shipping was about $28. They are a Ford Dealership in WI near Milwaukee. They were great to work with. Only took a couple of days to receive the K-frame. I would rather get a new Ford part for something critical like this than a unknown part from junkyard.
@@bwuepper439 that sounds reasonable for a new oem k frame. Good call!
I just got an Escape 2003. Near the same tranny case. I THINK the case is bad. As I slow down from 30 to 15 it goes WOOPWOOPWOOPWOOP. No shake in wheel or tires. Car handles amazing otherwise. Giving gas has a slight grindy sound at first.
Oh yea. This seal is also spitting stuff all over. So. I think my case might even be bad. Thoughts? Needa check fluid of course..
Depending on what year those Escape transfer cases can be a big job to replace. Very common issue if the oil isn't replaced every 30-50k miles.
@@ozzstars_cars preciate it. The thing spits junk from the output shaft seal so idk :/ silver and black junk.
Great job Ozz with good narration on changing out that pinion seal. And Chaos didn't even give you a hand on this one :)
I'm glad that lil bastard stayed away!!! Take care Stutz
I just did mine .. I dint know the torque for the 27mm nut so I just put 110lbs I hope that's enough... 30lbs for the 6 holding the front and 15 lbs on the 4 10mm bolts.. I hope that's OK...
Great camera work OZZ. We were so close I paused to put safety glasses on. Some of them bolts came out pretty easy. Chaos must be on vacation. LOL doug
LOL@safety glasses and lots of penetrating fluid. Not one bolt snapped....did you see the plane at the end? Chaos was on there! Take care Doug
You explain your work and the process well. "No three minute videos here". That's funny and it's hard to keep videos down to under 5 minutes. Three minutes is near impossible. Nice work.
Thanks. Detail oriented, I just can't sacrifice time for the things that matter. Appreciate your support Wyatt
Nice job and always feel good to look under there and it's dry when your done.
Thanks Rusty and thats exactly what i say to myself each day! LOL
This video has helped me alot thanks
Good deal Lurch
Great... I have to do this on my Parents Escape, Thank you So much for showing us this video, You the Man!!!
Glad it helped you out. Hardest part is getting the seal out and not damaging the aluminum transfer case.
Wow that seal wasn't going to let go haha , well done 👍👍
Thanks man. That momma was in tight!...had me breaking a sweat!
Nice job. At least you had good access to get to it
Yeah true, that VW 4 motion I had to disconnect the exhaust to get to the diff seal was a tight squeeze.
Good thing you caught the battery when you did, or it might have been a 3 minute seal replacement! For me it's always the lav mic. I get these awesome shots of me explaining.....nothing.
LOL don't ya just hate that Matt? The life of a self proclaimed videographer!
good work...easy to follow! Thank you!
Thanks Thomas appreciate your comment!
Theres no pinion nut in my ford explorer 2010's transfer case front seal like in this video?? Any ideas?
Thanks for this video and good information
You are welcome, thanks for your comment.
Hi dear !! what is the number of the big screw
Can the car drive without the rear drive shaft.
Great Video! what torque spec did you use on the 6 torx bolts on the PTU, the 2 on the carrier bearing/support and the 4 on the U-joint at the rear diff? I can't seem to find these numbers anywhere! any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Loctite and snug. Thanks for watching.
@@ozzstars_cars Thank you!
Good stuff again Ozz. Tell me, do you have a vid on replacing the rear main seal on the Vette? Curious to see since I will probably change it when I do the clutch.
Thanks man, always good to hear from ya. I don't have any vids on the rear main seal replacement on an LT1........ yet.
very informative sir
New front seal is installed dry? Did not see you put or hear you mention putting any silicone or lube of any type on new seal. Is that correct? Thanks for your time
The inner part of the oem seal that rides on the shaft is pre-lubed.
Thanks, useful video and information for that type transfer case on both Ford Escape 4X4 and 2009 + other Mercury Mariner 4X4 V6.
Good video. Do all 4 wheels have to be off the ground in order to do this?
Anything to make life easier.
Hello. Thanks for video! You can write the text what moment of tightening of the central nut of a shaft?
Hey Ozz, great video
I had some major drive-ability issues this morning and had to take my 09 ford escape to pep boys for the fast diagnostics i could, due to the outbreak and the weekend. So what they showed me underneath was a some play from where the drive shaft connects to the PTU. They had told me the bearing in the PTU need to be replaced. Does this sound right to you?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thank you
If you are experiencing vibration that could be the issue. I can't tell you over the internet unfortunately. How much is some play? The ptu gears tend to wear out if the gear oil isn't changed regularly like every 30k miles. How many miles does your Escape have?
@@ozzstars_cars I actually just changed it last month. It did wiggle. It is vibrating also. I think I was wondering if maybe it was more likely a drive shaft issue rather than a ptu bearing problem. I have had no luck this afternoon finding any part called a ptu bearing. The guy at pep boys couldn't find it online either.
@@seanstapelfeld6448 I would remove the driveshaft and check the CV joint. Also common to fail. You didn't say how many miles.
@@ozzstars_cars 145k.
was stuck in there good great job
sure was, thanks
love the carpenter hammer
Nobody has ever donated a nice ball peen to me so I use what I have. Sadness.
Great 👍job
My 10 model has a drain plug or a bolt I should say
Good,
do have a video on how to remove transfer case same ford would ya
No I do not sorry
very good video!!
Thanks Mike!
nice job
What size bit did you use for those torx bolt's
I state the torx size in the video.
@@ozzstars_cars sorry about that i must ha e missed it. I am trying to replace the drive shaft on my 2013 ford escape and i don't think i have the right size bit for the torx bolts would you know what size they would be.
@@Violetmakeup11 not sure off hand
what seal you used on the refill bolt?
I use Rectorseal here is a link: amzn.to/30cFdhD
@@ozzstars_cars thanks
I know its a old video hopefully someone can help... how long can a guy go with it leaking? I just discovered a little puddle last night maybe a oz or 2.
You should call a proctologist right away. Seriously, check the level ASAP cause if thise gears burn up it will be expen$ive to fix!
@@ozzstars_cars funny shit bro! Im gonna have to pick up a bottle of fluid and add some till i can get it done this weekend.
@@ozzstars_cars thanks for the reply so fast as well. That deserves a subscriber!
@@jt7559 appreciate that, thank you.
How can I contact you for I question about a 2014 taurus transfer case noise in it
Go to my 'channel' page, click the 'about' section tab, then click the 'message icon' located next to the 'flag' icon.
BTW... you must have an official T-Shirt supplier.... and was that YYZ airport?
haha I do have a passion for cool T-shirts but nobody ever sends them to me. I buy my own. The plane in the vid was landing at (BNA) Nashville Tenn. International Airport....the closest commercial airport for me to get to Bowling Green Kentucky (about 1 hr drive)......the birthplace of every new Corvette since 1981.
+Ozzstar Are you a WKU Hilltopper ?
MakeThemFly I'm a FIghting Blue Hen but i have visited the WKU Campus not too long ago
I did the seal and after a ride when i Check it with a light it looks shining at the edge is it normal? Theres no dropes and when check it by hand there is no oil leaking
If the differential has gear oil in it then I'd say the seal is working if there are no leaks.
Ozzstar yes there is gear oil in it , but i was wondering if it is normal to look shiny at the first drive , may be after a while it will be completly dry and no shining at all in the edges of the axle shaft, what do you think?
Great video! I have a question about my 05 Escape AWD. My driveshaft completely separated from the PTU where that main rear seal is imgur.com/a/p8SYksz. Do you think the whole PTU will need to be replaced? Thanks man!
Hard to tell from the pic. Remove the CV joint and see if there is excessive play or damage to the case or the output shaft.
@@ozzstars_cars Dang, thanks for the quick reply. Will do when I have time! I'll try to update the comment with what I find / solution. Your video is going to help me a lot, thanks again.
@@ozzstars_cars so, been working om removing the driveshaft for the last few hours. I can't back the driveshaft out enough for the CV joint to clear the housing. Seems the driveshaft is stuck where the u joint meets the carrier bearing. Took the saddles off but the driveshaft is not budging. Any ideas? Thanks man!
@@ozzstars_cars here's a video of us trying to pull it and the issue we're having th-cam.com/video/syVV6XuP4sw/w-d-xo.html
@@davisgarth10 use a hammer and tap the yoke of the drive shaft where the saddles were. Seperate the driveshaft from the center carrier bearing. HOLD the shaft with your free hand while doing this because it will fall out. Then slide the cv end out and away.
funny how your camera dies for the removal and install of drive shaft. Tells me you were heaving and cussing.
Not a good battery day, the electricity went out during the middle of the job. Not much cursing on this one the shaft popped right out. Getting the seal out was the hardest part. Fairly easy job. Thanks for watching
Great repair video!!!!Thanks!!!1
You're welcome Dennis!