No problem. Take your time doing it. I think the hardest part is the piano wire and then getting the cover back on correctly. Other then that it’s pretty easy. Can you can still keep oil in the bike
You should be measuring stack height for new plates etc. Some bikes have problems if stack isn’t the same height and just relying on putting in all plates.
Correct. I actually did measure them but apparently I didn’t get it on film. However I have had no issues with just putting in brand new oem plates and discs after soaking in oil without measuring it. Is it a good rule of thumb? Of course
Thanks for this video its great mate. I have an r1 2000 and I want to paint the frame matt black like yours what did you do? Self etching primer and then paint or you powdered coated it? Any advice?thanks 😅
8 newton meters for the 6 pressure plate bolts that secure the diaphragm spring. The bolts for the clutch cover is 12 newton meters. I do say both torque specs in the video
Great video. Have just had exactly the same difficulty with the 'Piano wire' on an FZ 750, very few you tube videos on this. I have ordered a new one after original was too distorted. Do you think i will have a better chance of getting new wire in place if I remove basket out of bike to do this task? Cheers
Glad the video was helpful! You should have better luck with the new one. Wrap it tight around and try to push it down the hole with your finger. Use something like a very small flat head screw driver for glasses to try to grab the end when it pokes through when pushing down with your finger
@@MrFrubz no probably not. Keep it on. Get one side in first ( going clockwise with the wire then pull that wire tight around it. You may have to use a needle noose to grab it better. There is notches for the wire to go into so keep that in mind
Hi matey, which oil did you soak them in overnight? I've got a little clutch slip and was looking at just putting in a set of friction plates and leaving everything behind the piano wire alone. Seems to be pretty common. What do you think?
I like using amsoil 10w40 100% synthetic on my r1’s. You can try leaving everything behind the piano wire but there is a chance it might slip. If you do this, comment back and let us know if it worked. I know the piano wire can be a little bit of a pain but it’s not too bad. I always replace everything while I’m down there even a new piano wire
Hi, on my FZS 1000 i have some problem with my clutch when i press clutch and put 1st gear it hits hard i tried to change clutch springs and new clutch cable but still feels like clutch pressing not all the way and its hard to find Neutral and also u need some force to go trough gears, any ideas? Soon gonna order full clutch components but maybe there is some kind of fix? P.s clutch plates are in good condition.
The R1’s and some other Yamaha’s make a knock noise when putting into first gear. My r1 does it they are known for it. Hard shifting could be worn shift forks if clutch is not setup correct with enough free play ect
I thought i was getting blind or mad, i got 2003 R1 and the clutch did stop working. I get the bike home and open up the clutch cover, and i start googling about how the clutch is assemble and every where on the internet there are many small springs that press the plates together, but of course my bike doesn't have springs. But it dose have this spring disc. But what is going on if i get the ratchet pin to engage the leverage arm but it doesn't release the clutch...
Thanks for viewing! I’m not exactly sure what you’re asking but it seems like something is not installed correctly. If possible make a video on TH-cam so I can see it or message me directly on Instagram. Same name as my TH-cam
@@ctadrenaline I didn't put it correctly together, i did in the end. Because the ratchet pin has to travel quite a lot before working the clutch... My bad. :D :D
How to remove the big (30mm) nut shown in 5:55? I apparently have a worn out clutch basket/crown whatever that thing is and I need to remove it but can't since the whole assembly is just spinning freely.
You need something like this to hold it in place while trying to break free the nut. Make sure the metal bracket is bent out of the way so it’s not held on as well. www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-clutch-tool?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Ag1c3fj5UkG1RIxzVOPLuHtx5V&gclid=Cj0KCQjwudexBhDKARIsAI-GWYULKXJFz-ob7X0kda9nwT11LEbbbbj9KbGbuycDmxa7amugY9byAw8aAgZKEALw_wcB&sku_id=1124089
@@ctadrenaline Thanks for answering! What year is your bike? My 2001 seems to be mostly the same but the assembly begins with fibre and only then comes the metal rings (2) and metal plate and lastly the wire.
@@hopeatoffee98 in the video it was on a 2003 but it’s the same thing for 98-03. The first bigger inner diameter friction plate will slide right over the 2 metal rings you mentioned so technically it won’t matter how it goes but yes the bigger inner diameter friction plate does go first
@@ctadrenaline Got the bike all back together. Clutch wont engage when in gear. Bike just keeps pulling instead of free rolling when the clutch is pulled. Took the cable/lever/spring contraption apart multiple times but I just cant seem to figure it out. When not running and in gear, the bike obviously doesnt move much but when I pull the clutch it allows the bike to be rolled but theres obvious friction and it isn't smooth, almost like the clutch wasnt fully engaged. Sorry for asking so much and bothering you but if you have any ideas what could be wrong I'd really appreciate it.
@@hopeatoffee98 definitely make sure the pressure plate was installed correctly. When installed correctly it should only move a tiny bit left and right. If it just spins with the bolts not in then it wasn’t installed right. Next the clutch cover itself with the actuator arm might not be back far enough and or the adjustment on the clutch cable by the clutch cover might need adjusting forward or back. Then of course the clutch cable adjuster on top might have to turn out more. Try the adjuster on top first screwing it out as much as possible. If it get a little better then adjusting the cable by the clutch cover by the bottom of the bike should be next. If that makes it better then you can turn the adjuster up top back in and adjust the actuator arm back more then start over and you should be at good spot where the clutch adjuster up top isn’t turned out tooo much. Let me know how you make out!
Do you have link of the oil case gasket. I’ve been trying to find gasket but no luck ,it’s been showing me crankcase gasket which I believe is not the correct gasket . I have 03 r1 with the red flames . Plz help thank you
How bad are the gearboxes on the early r1's really? i kinda want to buy one but i've read alot about gearbox problems worn cogs and damaged forks. Should i stay away?
Yea are awesome bikes. I have personally never had a issue with the gear box on the the early gen bikes. Maybe I’ve had good luck but I had around 10 bikes that were the 98-03 range over the years. If you go to buy one when you test ride it safety try to ring out 2nd gear to redline. If it doesn’t pop out or start slipping the gear box should be fine
Is replacing being the retaining wire necessary? My local shop told me no but I don’t wanna half ass the job then still have my clutch slipping? Also any replacement clutch kits I find online none have the bigger disc or a new retaining wire where did you get yours if you remember thanks brotha !
I would personally replace the retaining wire especially if when taking it off it gets bent out of shape. You can reuse the old one but just make sure it seats correctly. Go to this site and order the parts you need. Don’t worry about a clutch kit. Link bellow www.rockymountainatvmc.com If you have not already please subscribe and share with your friends! Thanks for viewing! More cool videos coming soon
Thank you for the reply , sorry for my spelling I meant the parts behind the retaining wire it looks like there is a disc behind there that needs to be changed ? Or can that disc be left thank you so much man
@@drewmonster12 I would change that disc as well. Do it right the first time and be done with it. Your replacing your clutch so replace all the normal discs and that last one as well. This video walks you through it
My bike was super quiet before I did gearbox rebuild but now the clutch has a massive rattle from what feels and sounds like the clutch actuator mechanism, worse when I pull the clutch in too like the teeth are not engaged… had the cover off several times trying to rectify! Anyone had this issue?
Did you try to start it without the clutch cover on and on the side stand? Some oil might come out but you can see if it makes the noise. If not then it’s error install on clutch cover/ actuator arm
Yes it should be right around there. I’ve heard some people say it doesn’t matter as long as you adjust the cable on the right side of the actuator arm but you will have more adjustment with it in line with the dots. Hope this video has been helpful
Just looked at the bike. When I pull the clutch in the dots are basically lined up for the most part. The Actuator is a little to the left hand side when lever is released
@@ctadrenaline about the size of the clutch cover. The original on my R1 is 2700mm³. I bought a used one that is 2900mm³ I think it is from the new R1 maybe RN02.
all those silver clutch plates have a rounded side and a flat side, you failed to mention what way they go in, flat side outwards or rounded side, even the haynes manual doesn't tell you what way they go in.
Try to get one end in first obviously. Wrap around the basket and make sure it’s in the grove. Then use a small needle nose and try to pull it towards the hole where it’s gonna go in. I had to pull turn push in by hand to get it started. Then I used a small flat head to grab it and pull down more into the hole. It’s definitely a pain in the ass lol. That’s the hardest part about it. Keep working. Take a break if needed. You’ll get it done at some point. Thanks for viewing and the support!
@@colesounds1367 props to you for trying to make a new wire! I personally just bought a new wire. Even then it wasn’t the easiest thing to do but got it done. My 03 project is almost done! Just gotta do some painting when spring/summer comes around and get a new front tire
Mate your an absolute diamond,I was just replacing the gasket but that cover had me stumped till I saw this thanks
Thanks for watching! Highly appreciate it and I’m glad it helped. It can be a little tricky at first
My R1 del 2000 needs that. I will follow your steps. Thank you for showing us how to do it.
No problem. Take your time doing it. I think the hardest part is the piano wire and then getting the cover back on correctly. Other then that it’s pretty easy. Can you can still keep oil in the bike
Great video saved me a load of Fs 👍
Thanks for viewing! I’m glad the video was helpful. Please share with your friends 👍🏻👍🏻
Brilliant video; thanks from Ireland
Thanks for viewing! Glad it was helpful. Share the channel with your friends!
Thank for the good illustration video it was clear and detailed 👍🏻 do short videos on each modification on your Banshee bikes.
Thank you and I will!
Sweet new intro!
Thanks man glad you like it
You should be measuring stack height for new plates etc. Some bikes have problems if stack isn’t the same height and just relying on putting in all plates.
Correct. I actually did measure them but apparently I didn’t get it on film. However I have had no issues with just putting in brand new oem plates and discs after soaking in oil without measuring it. Is it a good rule of thumb? Of course
Great video verry helpful thank you bro.❤
Thanks! I’m glad it helped you out!
Thanks for this video its great mate. I have an r1 2000 and I want to paint the frame matt black like yours what did you do? Self etching primer and then paint or you powdered coated it? Any advice?thanks 😅
Thanks for viewing! That was done on a 2003 Yamaha r1 which is why the frame has color to it. The procedure is the same for 98-03 for the clutch
What was the force used with the torque wrench to tighten the clutch bolts?
thank you
8 newton meters for the 6 pressure plate bolts that secure the diaphragm spring. The bolts for the clutch cover is 12 newton meters. I do say both torque specs in the video
Great video. Have just had exactly the same difficulty with the 'Piano wire' on an FZ 750, very few you tube videos on this. I have ordered a new one after original was too distorted. Do you think i will have a better chance of getting new wire in place if I remove basket out of bike to do this task? Cheers
Glad the video was helpful! You should have better luck with the new one. Wrap it tight around and try to push it down the hole with your finger. Use something like a very small flat head screw driver for glasses to try to grab the end when it pokes through when pushing down with your finger
Thanks for fast reply. So do you think it would be easier for me if I removed clutch basket from bike just to get wire on ?
@@MrFrubz no probably not. Keep it on. Get one side in first ( going clockwise with the wire then pull that wire tight around it. You may have to use a needle noose to grab it better. There is notches for the wire to go into so keep that in mind
Hi matey, which oil did you soak them in overnight?
I've got a little clutch slip and was looking at just putting in a set of friction plates and leaving everything behind the piano wire alone. Seems to be pretty common. What do you think?
I like using amsoil 10w40 100% synthetic on my r1’s. You can try leaving everything behind the piano wire but there is a chance it might slip. If you do this, comment back and let us know if it worked. I know the piano wire can be a little bit of a pain but it’s not too bad. I always replace everything while I’m down there even a new piano wire
@@ctadrenaline æ
Thank you
No problem thanks for viewing!
Hi, on my FZS 1000 i have some problem with my clutch when i press clutch and put 1st gear it hits hard i tried to change clutch springs and new clutch cable but still feels like clutch pressing not all the way and its hard to find Neutral and also u need some force to go trough gears, any ideas? Soon gonna order full clutch components but maybe there is some kind of fix? P.s clutch plates are in good condition.
The R1’s and some other Yamaha’s make a knock noise when putting into first gear. My r1 does it they are known for it. Hard shifting could be worn shift forks if clutch is not setup correct with enough free play ect
I thought i was getting blind or mad, i got 2003 R1 and the clutch did stop working. I get the bike home and open up the clutch cover, and i start googling about how the clutch is assemble and every where on the internet there are many small springs that press the plates together, but of course my bike doesn't have springs. But it dose have this spring disc. But what is going on if i get the ratchet pin to engage the leverage arm but it doesn't release the clutch...
Thanks for viewing! I’m not exactly sure what you’re asking but it seems like something is not installed correctly. If possible make a video on TH-cam so I can see it or message me directly on Instagram. Same name as my TH-cam
@@ctadrenaline I didn't put it correctly together, i did in the end. Because the ratchet pin has to travel quite a lot before working the clutch... My bad. :D :D
@@Guds777 no worries glad you got it straightened out 👍🏻👍🏻
How to remove the big (30mm) nut shown in 5:55? I apparently have a worn out clutch basket/crown whatever that thing is and I need to remove it but can't since the whole assembly is just spinning freely.
You need something like this to hold it in place while trying to break free the nut. Make sure the metal bracket is bent out of the way so it’s not held on as well. www.cyclegear.com/accessories/stockton-clutch-tool?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD_Ag1c3fj5UkG1RIxzVOPLuHtx5V&gclid=Cj0KCQjwudexBhDKARIsAI-GWYULKXJFz-ob7X0kda9nwT11LEbbbbj9KbGbuycDmxa7amugY9byAw8aAgZKEALw_wcB&sku_id=1124089
@@ctadrenaline Thanks for answering! What year is your bike? My 2001 seems to be mostly the same but the assembly begins with fibre and only then comes the metal rings (2) and metal plate and lastly the wire.
@@hopeatoffee98 in the video it was on a 2003 but it’s the same thing for 98-03. The first bigger inner diameter friction plate will slide right over the 2 metal rings you mentioned so technically it won’t matter how it goes but yes the bigger inner diameter friction plate does go first
@@ctadrenaline Got the bike all back together. Clutch wont engage when in gear. Bike just keeps pulling instead of free rolling when the clutch is pulled. Took the cable/lever/spring contraption apart multiple times but I just cant seem to figure it out.
When not running and in gear, the bike obviously doesnt move much but when I pull the clutch it allows the bike to be rolled but theres obvious friction and it isn't smooth, almost like the clutch wasnt fully engaged.
Sorry for asking so much and bothering you but if you have any ideas what could be wrong I'd really appreciate it.
@@hopeatoffee98 definitely make sure the pressure plate was installed correctly. When installed correctly it should only move a tiny bit left and right. If it just spins with the bolts not in then it wasn’t installed right. Next the clutch cover itself with the actuator arm might not be back far enough and or the adjustment on the clutch cable by the clutch cover might need adjusting forward or back. Then of course the clutch cable adjuster on top might have to turn out more. Try the adjuster on top first screwing it out as much as possible. If it get a little better then adjusting the cable by the clutch cover by the bottom of the bike should be next. If that makes it better then you can turn the adjuster up top back in and adjust the actuator arm back more then start over and you should be at good spot where the clutch adjuster up top isn’t turned out tooo much. Let me know how you make out!
What oil did you soak the plates in?
Amsoil metric 10w/40 100% synthetic
Do you have link of the oil case gasket. I’ve been trying to find gasket but no luck ,it’s been showing me crankcase gasket which I believe is not the correct gasket . I have 03 r1 with the red flames . Plz help thank you
Clutch cover gasket right here or easily found on most Motorsports places that carry oem parts can get you it www.ebay.com/itm/202658023700
How bad are the gearboxes on the early r1's really? i kinda want to buy one but i've read alot about gearbox problems worn cogs and damaged forks. Should i stay away?
Yea are awesome bikes. I have personally never had a issue with the gear box on the the early gen bikes. Maybe I’ve had good luck but I had around 10 bikes that were the 98-03 range over the years. If you go to buy one when you test ride it safety try to ring out 2nd gear to redline. If it doesn’t pop out or start slipping the gear box should be fine
How to align the inner basket grooves to ensure clutch is fully seated?
Is replacing being the retaining wire necessary? My local shop told me no but I don’t wanna half ass the job then still have my clutch slipping? Also any replacement clutch kits I find online none have the bigger disc or a new retaining wire where did you get yours if you remember thanks brotha !
I would personally replace the retaining wire especially if when taking it off it gets bent out of shape. You can reuse the old one but just make sure it seats correctly. Go to this site and order the parts you need. Don’t worry about a clutch kit. Link bellow
www.rockymountainatvmc.com If you have not already please subscribe and share with your friends! Thanks for viewing! More cool videos coming soon
Thank you for the reply , sorry for my spelling I meant the parts behind the retaining wire it looks like there is a disc behind there that needs to be changed ? Or can that disc be left thank you so much man
@@drewmonster12 I would change that disc as well. Do it right the first time and be done with it. Your replacing your clutch so replace all the normal discs and that last one as well. This video walks you through it
What type of oil u let it sit in
The same oil you’re gonna use. I always use amsoil metric 10/40. Great oil
@@ctadrenaline I’m 18 this my first time changing a clutch ur video has been very helpful
@@Xn_x0405 awesome glad the video was helpful! Please share with your friends subscribe and like
My bike was super quiet before I did gearbox rebuild but now the clutch has a massive rattle from what feels and sounds like the clutch actuator mechanism, worse when I pull the clutch in too like the teeth are not engaged… had the cover off several times trying to rectify! Anyone had this issue?
Did you try to start it without the clutch cover on and on the side stand? Some oil might come out but you can see if it makes the noise. If not then it’s error install on clutch cover/ actuator arm
@@ctadrenaline that’s my next move
@@ParosMr cool report back with the outcome
The actuator should grab when the dots line up correct?
Yes it should be right around there. I’ve heard some people say it doesn’t matter as long as you adjust the cable on the right side of the actuator arm but you will have more adjustment with it in line with the dots. Hope this video has been helpful
Just looked at the bike. When I pull the clutch in the dots are basically lined up for the most part. The Actuator is a little to the left hand side when lever is released
So you dont use any loctite on any of the bolts ?
Correct. It is not needed if the cover is put on correctly. It will not leak and the bolts will not come loose once torqued down
Can you drop the link of where you order from
www.rockymountainatvmc.com
The original for R1 RN01 1998 is 2700, can we use 2900?
What exactly are you taking about for 2700 and 2900?
@@ctadrenaline about the size of the clutch cover. The original on my R1 is 2700mm³. I bought a used one that is 2900mm³ I think it is from the new R1 maybe RN02.
@@kisskino6665 ahh ok I see. Not sure about the cover size. Just worry about having the correct oil level in the site glass
all those silver clutch plates have a rounded side and a flat side, you failed to mention what way they go in, flat side outwards or rounded side, even the haynes manual doesn't tell you what way they go in.
Did you ever find out which way they go in? Trying to figure it out.
That wire is the biggest Pain in the ass I have dealt with on a motorcycle. Going on 4 hours
Try to get one end in first obviously. Wrap around the basket and make sure it’s in the grove. Then use a small needle nose and try to pull it towards the hole where it’s gonna go in. I had to pull turn push in by hand to get it started. Then I used a small flat head to grab it and pull down more into the hole. It’s definitely a pain in the ass lol. That’s the hardest part about it. Keep working. Take a break if needed. You’ll get it done at some point. Thanks for viewing and the support!
@@ctadrenaline well the original broke on the way out and was a tad too short so it’s been trial and error making a new wire for a while haha!
@@colesounds1367 props to you for trying to make a new wire! I personally just bought a new wire. Even then it wasn’t the easiest thing to do but got it done. My 03 project is almost done! Just gotta do some painting when spring/summer comes around and get a new front tire
I need
Thanks for viewing!