I’m researching to build a set of exterior bi-fold doors and what you’ve shared here is exactly what I have been looking for - beautiful and extremely sturdy. Thanks for sharing!
Undoubtedly, modern tools make a huge difference. On the other hand, a knowledgeable, skillful, professional craftsman should know how to operate them accurately and efficiently. Thanks
That morticer certainly makes short work of the job. I've got a slot morticer and a domino, so find it hard to justify yet another machine to make mortices, but maybe one day... Another good video. Thanks, Ollie.
Nice one Ian, that is the slot morticer?? like a router bit? ive seen some planer thickness machines have a mortice attachment, you can add a long router bit to the end of the cutter and mount a horizontal bed on the machine to mortice door locks etc in a assembled door.
@@BradshawJoinery Hi Ollie. The slot morticer is an add-on for my Hammer combination machine. As you say, it's run off the side of the planer and has a movable bed to clamp the work on. It's pretty good, but a bit awkward for big and heavy stuff, and it 'screams' a lot when cutting. You also need to square off the ends of the mortices (or round the tenons) so a bit more work involved.
Just subscribed, my dad was a joiner and taught me a lot of stuff when he was alive so good to watch a craftsman like you with great skills, great videos👍
Cheers Chris! It has taken some getting used to, and its certainly not the perfect glue in terms of useability, but it sure does hold well and its nice to carry straight on with a project with set glue rather than waiting overnight
@@BradshawJoinery Look like Sovereign Rapid Set joinery glue ? I've used Gorilla glue in the past and its expands everywhere uncontrollably. Your glue up looks much better. Well done.
It is sovereign, I like this one, but I've just lost the local rep, he now sells the wood weld, wood weld has some better properties, but the sovereign I think is a little slower to set fully and doesn't go really hard immediately. Allows a small amount more time to work with it
Awesome! PU is great, I use unobond, but like you said , you need to be switched in and good to go! I had to remake a sash as the square one looked horrible in the out of square box frame, rushed back to workshop, knocked it all up quick ... on the press just checked the width and the stop on saw had been set for a wider one in the set ( lucky!) pulled it apart ( had the sweats going😂) cut one end... back through tenon machine, stack set back on spindle for meeting rail..slice... tiny squeeze more PU, and back clamped up... perfect 🤩 Old PU was well bubbled, light skin, just made it
Haha!!! i would have had no chance on that panel door glue up if something had gone wrong. It was basically dry as i clamped it together. i was proper panicking!!!! Makes the job look simple watching it on a video but as you know it is very involved!!! Good work on the sash! Nice to hear others in the same work scenarios :D
@@BradshawJoinery I know that PU glue is good for outdoors but it seems to set quickly and I hate rushing as I make mistakes. What are your thoughts on Type 3 Titebond or Epoxy - they give more open time and are suitable for outdoors use but are there issues with them that concern you? Cheers
I have no experience with epoxy but I see people use it a lot. Absolutely no issues with either from what I can see. I've used titebond 3 on external doors before. It's the longest open time titebond of them all and works well. I used cascomite pretty much exclusively for 10 years. Titebond 3 isn't much different. It's a little harder to spread, more expensive and needs cold water cleaning not warm water like cascomite. I'd say titebond is a better adhesive as it is more flexible than cascomite. But you shouldn't have a problem using either.
The criticism is that I was always told that the braces should only join on to ledges and not the stiles as they can spread the door. With all the joints you made plus the glue you have used I don't think that would be an issue. Personally I prefer the way you have done it as it is more pleasing to the eye. Your level of craftmanship is some of the best I have seen.
Yeah its kinda a good theory, but then if the braces are glued into the door at glue up stage, i will add a domino into the rail and the stile, actually strengthening the joint. Also the brace will be still exerting a pressure on the joint even if not touching it. Ive honestly never seen a door come apart at the joint that ive made and braced. Maybe its the stronger modern adhesives! I wouldnt be put off by bracing in the corner as you have said.
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Accoya looks really nice stained, gotta try and get my customers to come round to it, so much better than the African hardwoods from an environmental perspective and personal health with the dust aswell. Had to make an iroko gate last year hated every minute of working with the stuff! Top work as always!
Iroko is a git for the dust/smell. i am not too bad, just get a little sneezey, but it sure isnt that enjoyable! Accoya isnt as hard and comes with its own downfalls but overall i feel it is the best product!
We always put a 9 degree bevel on the middle and bottom rails as it’s a gate and open to the weather. Is that something you ever do? Does make it a bit tricky to cut the braces in tho.
Yeah if it's external, it's what the setback machining is for at 3.30 in. You can make out the bevel gap against the spindle fence. It will be detailed more in the next video which is a bit more in-depth
I didn't see you put an angle on the middle and bottom rails to shed water🤔 other than that, top job. I am very envious of your workshop, I've just made a similar door with some basic machines in my single garage🙄
Thanks Chris, probably didnt show it, the little mortice setback on the rail tops is for the bevel so it doesnt leave a hole in the joint. ultimately, though the rails and braces should have bevels, as the brace traps water where it meets the stile, but its Accoya so it'll be fine no doubt, I started in a tiny space very similar to be fair, slowly expanded and now ran out of room again!
Very much enjoying your videos, high quality craftsmanship and inspiring/educational. Please could you explain a bit more about using Accoya? What is the reason for choosing this over a hardwood, and is it easy to get hold of these days. Best wishes, and thanks again.
Accoya is very dimensionally stable and incredibly durable. Install accoya and you wont have the movement and associated redecoration and rotting of hardwood. Its easy from a Timber merchant like lathams but isnt really a product you can buy from your local Shed.
Beautiful gate and a really nice in-depth video of a proper gate makers work. Hard to find stuff like this in books to get a proper understanding of the whole process start to finish. Question about your fixings for the boards, what sort of gauge brads/nails are you using?
Savage, lovely looking door, good video, I like the joinery and attention to detail. Is there a book you know or would recommend for the joinery? Cheers 👌🌲☘️
Hey Matt, thanks again, i just move the bed as it cuts in towards the mortice, its a timing thing you need to be controlled with. naturally the chisel will want to move in that direction so its not too stressful on it. Takes some practice, your first few attempts will probably end up square! haha
Round over Pete. Only time I would chamfer is if I did a bare faced top rail so the boarding ran full height of the door so the stiles looked exactly like another board. Otherwise it makes a awkward detail at the top rail.
Beautiful, but I need to find a video installing the face boards a little slower? How thick is complete door overall, as face boards appear to be inset slightly?
Nay worries here with that saw, wouldn't recomend on a lighter duty saw but this thing has had 4" thick oak drop and bind on the blade and it just takes it, no lunging forward like a lighter weight saw. Im always conscious of "what if" circumstances of timber catching etc, and try to work appropriately. All 10 digits still here now haha! Thanks buddy :)
That was a tour de force with what can be done with workshop machinery. That was a beautiful finished product Ed and I am sure it will last many many years. Interesting to see the use of a DF500 for the braces. I have a DF 500 and seriously considering knocking out a garden gate but dreading cutting the mortises in the stiles, I can set up to do the tenons relatively quickly on a router table (sawing out most of the waste first). Do you think it is worth trying the D500 to do the stile mortises, accepting that I will still have to hand chisel to finish all the way through? Also what are your thoughts on draw boring the tenons into the stiles as opposed to using wedges?
Yeah, anything to give an accurate guide in from both sides is going to help massively! Drawbore is a good technique, but imo only for pulling a joint tight while it glues, External work its another join that once painted creates a fault point, and doesnt add an awful lot of strenght. If your using modern adhesive i cant really see the need for them.
Great. When you measured up for the frame, I assume the wall/opposite side are not often parallel, or may not be perfectly vertical. Are your measurements for width (shown at the beginning) exact or do you make the frame slightly wider and then fit later? Do you use a laser? My concern is having a gap, between the frame and brick. I have seen this where people just wedge in the frame/door, but then there is a gap. I guess you could use a plane to trim the frame width, but this awkward as the door is already fitted to the frame, and it makes sense to keep the door in when fitting... Any extra detail on the fitting would be really appreciated. Thank you. You are a master carpenter/cabinetmaker. Not many really skilled ones on youtube!
When measuring use level lines through the middle of the opening both horizontally and vertically. Then measure in each corner and at any significant points to the lines. This will give you the extremes of the frame that you can make to. You then decide whether you want to build to the smaller side so it slips in without work or the bigger size and machine to fit. Take the door off for fitting and install the frame level then rehang door. Very awkward fitting with doors attached.
Your attention to detail is tops.
Proper craftsman.
Thanks MAn
Great to see a professional work, not just a TH-camr doing something for glitz and glamor. Great job
Nice one buddy! Problem with gluts and glamour is it gets views quickly. My aim was to help people in almost an apprenticeship style
Great to see a craftsman at work. Now I'll get back to the naff job I'm doing!!
Dont be decieved. i get some right naff jobs too!!!!
Great gate. A bit better than your typical side gate you see built lol
Yes the gate on my house is somewhat worse haha!!
I’m researching to build a set of exterior bi-fold doors and what you’ve shared here is exactly what I have been looking for - beautiful and extremely sturdy. Thanks for sharing!
NO worries scott, make them like that they will do you very well :)
Undoubtedly, modern tools make a huge difference. On the other hand, a knowledgeable, skillful, professional craftsman should know how to operate them accurately and efficiently. Thanks
If only it was that quick to build. Nice job
Haha Yes! Id be a wealthy bloke haha
Nice work from a fellow joiner keep them coming 😊
Thank you! Will do Buddy
Thats nicer than my internal doors top work
Its a lovely gate, thanks Martin!
Excellent video and finished job Ollie... Nice one
Nice one Paul! Thanks Once again matey :D
You know,i admire you a lot.In every video,more and more !!!
Ianis thanks man, your a legend!
@@BradshawJoinery the real legend is you my friend. !!!
Thank you for sharing a great jpb and great help.
No worries Dyana, Thankyou
That morticer certainly makes short work of the job. I've got a slot morticer and a domino, so find it hard to justify yet another machine to make mortices, but maybe one day... Another good video. Thanks, Ollie.
Nice one Ian, that is the slot morticer?? like a router bit? ive seen some planer thickness machines have a mortice attachment, you can add a long router bit to the end of the cutter and mount a horizontal bed on the machine to mortice door locks etc in a assembled door.
@@BradshawJoinery Hi Ollie. The slot morticer is an add-on for my Hammer combination machine. As you say, it's run off the side of the planer and has a movable bed to clamp the work on. It's pretty good, but a bit awkward for big and heavy stuff, and it 'screams' a lot when cutting. You also need to square off the ends of the mortices (or round the tenons) so a bit more work involved.
And of course, I really like Matthias Wandel's "pantorouter" which would also be another "great to have" machines that can do mortising! Cheers, David
The Tenon machine is awesome.
Sure makes like a lot easier!!!
Very nice gate 👍🏻 great video.
Thanks for that Steve! Appreciate taking the time to comment :)
Great job! I just discovered your channel! I enjoy seeing more professional level millwork rather than DIY stuff, so this is great!
Cheers scott! Good to hear that is buddy! :D
Beautifully made, lucky client.
Thank you very much!
Beautiful work!
Nice one, cheers Alex
Fantastic door!! Cool machines!!!
Hey Julie, thankyou!!! I just need more space for more machines!
Just subscribed, my dad was a joiner and taught me a lot of stuff when he was alive so good to watch a craftsman like you with great skills, great videos👍
Thankyou! hopefully the videos become helpful to you! all the best.
Beautiful!
Thankyou
Enjoyed this build
Nice one Simmo!
@@BradshawJoinery o
@@BradshawJoinery Poughkeepsie ooti
@@BradshawJoinery o
Lovely job!!!
Much appreciated
great quality door,excellent vid as usual.......i"ll be back ...................stay safe ..............dougie
Nice One Dougie, appreciate the kind words, view and the comment!
Excellent!
Cheers Ben, Many thanks!
Beautiful craftsmanship. Thank you for sharing how this is done. I've never been a big fan of expanding PU glue, but it's worked well here.
Cheers Chris! It has taken some getting used to, and its certainly not the perfect glue in terms of useability, but it sure does hold well and its nice to carry straight on with a project with set glue rather than waiting overnight
@@BradshawJoinery Look like Sovereign Rapid Set joinery glue ? I've used Gorilla glue in the past and its expands everywhere uncontrollably. Your glue up looks much better. Well done.
It is sovereign, I like this one, but I've just lost the local rep, he now sells the wood weld, wood weld has some better properties, but the sovereign I think is a little slower to set fully and doesn't go really hard immediately. Allows a small amount more time to work with it
PU glue is superb for external use especially, also great for oily woods like teak
Fantastic video 🙏
wonderful your work, congratulations,. greetings from Brazil to you.
Thankyou very much!
Awesome job !!
Great video!
Thanks!
Just found your channel by pure fluke. You have some serious skills, cracking gate... 😎👍
Nice one Richard. Its awesome to read comments like yours so thanks!
Love your set up. Top class!
Thank you kindly!
Great work...
Nice One Paul!
Awesome! PU is great, I use unobond, but like you said , you need to be switched in and good to go! I had to remake a sash as the square one looked horrible in the out of square box frame, rushed back to workshop, knocked it all up quick ... on the press just checked the width and the stop on saw had been set for a wider one in the set ( lucky!) pulled it apart ( had the sweats going😂) cut one end... back through tenon machine, stack set back on spindle for meeting rail..slice... tiny squeeze more PU, and back clamped up... perfect 🤩
Old PU was well bubbled, light skin, just made it
Haha!!! i would have had no chance on that panel door glue up if something had gone wrong. It was basically dry as i clamped it together. i was proper panicking!!!! Makes the job look simple watching it on a video but as you know it is very involved!!! Good work on the sash! Nice to hear others in the same work scenarios :D
@@BradshawJoinery I know that PU glue is good for outdoors but it seems to set quickly and I hate rushing as I make mistakes. What are your thoughts on Type 3 Titebond or Epoxy - they give more open time and are suitable for outdoors use but are there issues with them that concern you? Cheers
I have no experience with epoxy but I see people use it a lot. Absolutely no issues with either from what I can see. I've used titebond 3 on external doors before. It's the longest open time titebond of them all and works well. I used cascomite pretty much exclusively for 10 years. Titebond 3 isn't much different. It's a little harder to spread, more expensive and needs cold water cleaning not warm water like cascomite. I'd say titebond is a better adhesive as it is more flexible than cascomite. But you shouldn't have a problem using either.
I used cascamite as an apprentice 👍🏻
@@Dazza19746 Modern stuff - I used boiled horses hooves - smelt delightful.😂
Awesome video
Thankyou!
The criticism is that I was always told that the braces should only join on to ledges and not the stiles as they can spread the door. With all the joints you made plus the glue you have used I don't think that would be an issue. Personally I prefer the way you have done it as it is more pleasing to the eye. Your level of craftmanship is some of the best I have seen.
Yeah its kinda a good theory, but then if the braces are glued into the door at glue up stage, i will add a domino into the rail and the stile, actually strengthening the joint. Also the brace will be still exerting a pressure on the joint even if not touching it. Ive honestly never seen a door come apart at the joint that ive made and braced. Maybe its the stronger modern adhesives! I wouldnt be put off by bracing in the corner as you have said.
Nice job mate! It helps when you've got the setup you've got though 😂
Cheers Paul! :) Yeah but we could always do with more and better right hahA?
How I’d like to have space for a workshop like yours! Great videos. Thanks.
Cheers Stewart. I'd like to have more space! 🤣🤣
We have set up a Patreon page, if you would like to support us please go to patreon and search Bradshaw Joinery or click the link - patreon.com/BradshawJoinery
Accoya looks really nice stained, gotta try and get my customers to come round to it, so much better than the African hardwoods from an environmental perspective and personal health with the dust aswell. Had to make an iroko gate last year hated every minute of working with the stuff!
Top work as always!
Iroko is a git for the dust/smell. i am not too bad, just get a little sneezey, but it sure isnt that enjoyable! Accoya isnt as hard and comes with its own downfalls but overall i feel it is the best product!
Iroko can dull blades fast too, whether it be on the spindle moulder or saws and surfacers. Carcinogenic dust too, horrible stuff.
We always put a 9 degree bevel on the middle and bottom rails as it’s a gate and open to the weather. Is that something you ever do? Does make it a bit tricky to cut the braces in tho.
Yeah if it's external, it's what the setback machining is for at 3.30 in. You can make out the bevel gap against the spindle fence. It will be detailed more in the next video which is a bit more in-depth
@@BradshawJoinery spot on. Keep up the great content 👍🏻
I didn't see you put an angle on the middle and bottom rails to shed water🤔 other than that, top job. I am very envious of your workshop, I've just made a similar door with some basic machines in my single garage🙄
Thanks Chris, probably didnt show it, the little mortice setback on the rail tops is for the bevel so it doesnt leave a hole in the joint. ultimately, though the rails and braces should have bevels, as the brace traps water where it meets the stile, but its Accoya so it'll be fine no doubt, I started in a tiny space very similar to be fair, slowly expanded and now ran out of room again!
Nice work, a bit easier when all that machinery is around you, rather than making one up one site...
Definitley makes the difference
Very much enjoying your videos, high quality craftsmanship and inspiring/educational. Please could you explain a bit more about using Accoya? What is the reason for choosing this over a hardwood, and is it easy to get hold of these days. Best wishes, and thanks again.
Accoya is very dimensionally stable and incredibly durable. Install accoya and you wont have the movement and associated redecoration and rotting of hardwood. Its easy from a Timber merchant like lathams but isnt really a product you can buy from your local Shed.
Beautiful gate and a really nice in-depth video of a proper gate makers work. Hard to find stuff like this in books to get a proper understanding of the whole process start to finish. Question about your fixings for the boards, what sort of gauge brads/nails are you using?
Savage, lovely looking door, good video, I like the joinery and attention to detail. Is there a book you know or would recommend for the joinery? Cheers 👌🌲☘️
Cheers Kyle! Im afraid not on the reading material Kyle. I have seen modern practical joinery by George ellis recommended a few times though!
Great work as always buddy. Do you bend the mortice chisel at the end of each mortice to slope the sides?
Hey Matt, thanks again, i just move the bed as it cuts in towards the mortice, its a timing thing you need to be controlled with. naturally the chisel will want to move in that direction so its not too stressful on it. Takes some practice, your first few attempts will probably end up square! haha
Waw
Thanks Michael! :D
Great job as usual Ollie do you run the round over bit up the inside of the stiles or a vee cutter
Round over Pete. Only time I would chamfer is if I did a bare faced top rail so the boarding ran full height of the door so the stiles looked exactly like another board. Otherwise it makes a awkward detail at the top rail.
Nice but not cheap I bet 👍
Nothing handmade is unfortunately
Beautiful, but I need to find a video installing the face boards a little slower? How thick is complete door overall, as face boards appear to be inset slightly?
The door is ex 2" timber. In this case i think it was 45mm.
Lovely process ! - out of interest - how much was the Timber and how much do you charge to build the frame and gate ? If you don’t mind me asking 🤗
Hey Gary, cheers, Send me a message on instagram and ill let you know! :)
Sure will - many thanks 😁
That panel saw you have is quite amazing. What were you using before that? Track saw?
Yes, tracksaw and bench. Quite the upgrade.
Yeah,more less.greatings🎉
I'd be grateful to know what type of stain you used?
Hi, I use Sikens HLS I cannot remeber the colour. light, or heritage oak maybe.
do you have a SketchUp drawing for this door?
Nice gate and nice vid, but using the crosscut on the braces made me wince. Do you count your fingers often?
Nay worries here with that saw, wouldn't recomend on a lighter duty saw but this thing has had 4" thick oak drop and bind on the blade and it just takes it, no lunging forward like a lighter weight saw. Im always conscious of "what if" circumstances of timber catching etc, and try to work appropriately. All 10 digits still here now haha!
Thanks buddy :)
That was a tour de force with what can be done with workshop machinery. That was a beautiful finished product Ed and I am sure it will last many many years. Interesting to see the use of a DF500 for the braces. I have a DF 500 and seriously considering knocking out a garden gate but dreading cutting the mortises in the stiles, I can set up to do the tenons relatively quickly on a router table (sawing out most of the waste first). Do you think it is worth trying the D500 to do the stile mortises, accepting that I will still have to hand chisel to finish all the way through? Also what are your thoughts on draw boring the tenons into the stiles as opposed to using wedges?
Yeah, anything to give an accurate guide in from both sides is going to help massively! Drawbore is a good technique, but imo only for pulling a joint tight while it glues, External work its another join that once painted creates a fault point, and doesnt add an awful lot of strenght. If your using modern adhesive i cant really see the need for them.
@@BradshawJoinery Thank you👍 Much appreciated.
Great. When you measured up for the frame, I assume the wall/opposite side are not often parallel, or may not be perfectly vertical. Are your measurements for width (shown at the beginning) exact or do you make the frame slightly wider and then fit later? Do you use a laser? My concern is having a gap, between the frame and brick. I have seen this where people just wedge in the frame/door, but then there is a gap. I guess you could use a plane to trim the frame width, but this awkward as the door is already fitted to the frame, and it makes sense to keep the door in when fitting... Any extra detail on the fitting would be really appreciated. Thank you. You are a master carpenter/cabinetmaker. Not many really skilled ones on youtube!
When measuring use level lines through the middle of the opening both horizontally and vertically. Then measure in each corner and at any significant points to the lines. This will give you the extremes of the frame that you can make to. You then decide whether you want to build to the smaller side so it slips in without work or the bigger size and machine to fit. Take the door off for fitting and install the frame level then rehang door. Very awkward fitting with doors attached.
sir, with a braced door like that is there a golden rule as to on which side the hinges should be placed? thank you
Yes, the bottom of the brace is the side the hinge should it.
And I thought I made a solid gate 😂
Haha there are many ways to skin a cat!
@@BradshawJoinery I usually half lap with 5 min poly glue. Just easy to do on the sliding mitre and quick and way stronger that a shite butt 😂