UF cable with 8 awg is limited to 40 amps according to NEC 60C column. If you used conduit and thwn type wire the NEC allows up to 75C rating which then 8 awg has a 50 amp current capacity.
@6:50 There's only one pole lever because that lever inside the breaker throws both poles. This means that both poles trip together. Almost all of the time this is what to protect you and the equipment from a single pole still being energized and either shocking you or faulting the equipment. There are exceptions, but not for residential use.
It's kind of hard to tell, but did you use a GFCI breaker on the outdoor panel @11:30. If not you ought to, it will be much better at protecting people using the hot tub if something shorts (in the unlikely chance that occurs).
The NEC code states hot tubs shall have a disconnecting means accessible and within sight (25 feet max distance and visible) when at the tub and also out of reach to persons in the hottub.
You need rigid conduit buried at least 18”. That flex can’t be buried like that. Also flex should be 6’ max. Need to run rigid around the corner then transition to flex. Also as other have pointed out you have outdoor wire inside(not really an issue) but inside wire outdoors. Should be 6/3 to the gfci box and 4 #8 or 8 wires of thwn to the spa.
@@comtnmist everything has been perfectly fine. That's nice of you both to do it together, good luck! Make sure to get it checked by an electrician when done.
Pretty sure you undersized your 50A conductors. 8/3 UF-B isn’t rated for 50 amps. You have to use the 60 degree column. If you had used individual THHN conductors in conduit, you could have used #8, which is probably why that’s what your drawing said. Did your drawing say anything about those gauges being the minimum gauges, or about the applicability of certain NEC sections?
The electrician didn't seem to have a problem with it when I showed him everything that I had done. And no the drawing didn't say anything about the gauges minimum, I just used what was there. It's been working fine for about a year now. Also even though it's a 50amp breaker the hot tub max it will use is about 40.
I just bought a used tub and finished filling the tub up to check for leaks. So far so good, but I only have it wired with 110v for now. I can see the light is working and it has been going now for a few hours. I seen that you filled your tub up from the filter area? Is that the proper way and I messed up just filling it from the center? My tub just turned 20 yrs old, infact I need a new topper as well. Also the panels need to be redone.
If you look at the diagram at 2:32 I run the 8-3 wire from the main panel to the sub panel. Then from the sub panel I run a 12 and a 10 so I think that's where it appears like I had 1 wire that turned into two.
@@SuitTV silly question …thought I saw a delta tshirt on you and the way you carried yourself seemed very analytical The way you were trouble shooting just made me think that you could be. Great job again on video. I will share with my son to see if he can do it following your steps. He works on HVAC and has some electrical knowledge . Ty
Im surprised how many people run the house feed into the spa pack without any type of strain relief. This would never pass inspection in Alberta or anywhere in Canada
Couple things off the top of my head that come to mind you did wrong, not bashing, just to send some knowledge your way. First you used the nm-b (romex) the yellow and orange cable outside because it’s rated for indoor dry location use only article 334 in the NEC if you’re interested. A wire connector on where the uf cable entered the panel to prevent being cut from the edges of the hole and a male adapter with a bushing on the pvc conduit that came out the wall into that spa breaker panel. And I would have used THHW single stranded cables in the liquid tight flex. Also the 8-3 uf cable insulation type is rated at 60 degree C like the nm-b article 340.80 NEC, meaning it is only rated for 40 amps. The NEC and the ampacity of all the insulation types can be found in table 310.16 NEC. Had it been a different insulation type like THHN you would be fine with the 8 awg wire, but since you used uf it should be upsized to 6 awg. And that’s just a few so as to not overwhelm you.
You never put a jacketed 3 or 4 wire cords in conduit as you can only put single wires (not grouped and jacketed wires) as they are designed to be in the open, inside wall, framing cavities or underground in dirt (if they are for that) Because they generate constant heat that as in (conduit) the heat generated and continues to build up inside the conduit till it burns So change your cable that is inside of the conduit to single wires Please watch and read from professionals and check code before you embark on your next construction/ electrical project period for your and others safety
I cant be mad at this, the title of this video is “How to wire a hot tub for dummies”. Even tho there are lots of code violations and sloppy work the hot tub is still GFCI protected and works just fine.
@@SuitTV off the top of my head ( I need to watch video again) what’s wrong is your 10-3 and 12-2 romex going to your spa in the liquid tight is against code, also the pvc pipe that’s coming in behind your spa pack should be a a threaded nipple (code) also the uf cable in the pvc maybe over fill you need the correct size of pipe for that (conduit fill) I will need to check the code book. The romex, 10-3 and 12-2 inside your spa is rated for indoors that spa is outdoors in wet area you need seal tight and thhn wires. No hate but there’re quite a few code violations.
getting a quote just to learn how to do it yourself is the most annoying childish thing you can do. You have google, don’t mess with people that actually work for a living.
UF cable with 8 awg is limited to 40 amps according to NEC 60C column. If you used conduit and thwn type wire the NEC allows up to 75C rating which then 8 awg has a 50 amp current capacity.
I'm looking forward to when my brother gives me a hot tub one day in the future and my other brother installs it for me. 😁
haha you got it
LMAO.....installing electrical for my brother now :)
@6:50 There's only one pole lever because that lever inside the breaker throws both poles. This means that both poles trip together. Almost all of the time this is what to protect you and the equipment from a single pole still being energized and either shocking you or faulting the equipment. There are exceptions, but not for residential use.
It's kind of hard to tell, but did you use a GFCI breaker on the outdoor panel @11:30. If not you ought to, it will be much better at protecting people using the hot tub if something shorts (in the unlikely chance that occurs).
@@atawoo2 yea for sure used GFCI. It's actually against code not to use that
Excellent information, thanks
No Romex in conduit
No NEC code that says you cant run romex in conduit.
Quiestion… how did you attach the wires to the terminal bar in the hot tub?
If my main breaker box is already outside do I need the sub panel box or can I just go directly from main breaker box?
I'm not sure, but you definitely need to make sure it's the GFCI.
The NEC code states hot tubs shall have a disconnecting means accessible and within sight (25 feet max distance and visible) when at the tub and also out of reach to persons in the hottub.
Great video. Thanks.
Didn’t you need to put a spa pack GFCI disconnect on the wall? Pretty sure you need a disconnect between the tub and the main panel.
Yes for sure! The sub panel that came with the hot tub had GFCI breakers. You can see this in the bottom right at 7:28 in the video
Where’d you get the sub panel from?
@@donovangaston1679 it came with my hot tub.
You need rigid conduit buried at least 18”. That flex can’t be buried like that. Also flex should be 6’ max. Need to run rigid around the corner then transition to flex. Also as other have pointed out you have outdoor wire inside(not really an issue) but inside wire outdoors. Should be 6/3 to the gfci box and 4 #8 or 8 wires of thwn to the spa.
Do you mind sharing the link of the disconnect panel you used?
Where’d you get your disconnect panel from ?
Very helpful! Thanks!
What was the issue with your neutral wire?
Hubby and I are going to tackle this. I see your video is 2 years old. How is everything now? 😊
@@comtnmist everything has been perfectly fine. That's nice of you both to do it together, good luck! Make sure to get it checked by an electrician when done.
If my hot tub is on a concrete slab do I need to bury the wire in the concrete or can I run conduit on the outside?
You can run it on the outside like I did between the outside wall of my house and the hot tub side
How'd you get the wires into that wire harness on the control board? One of the wires came loose and its not a push in kind.
A small screwdriver in the tab above the hole where the wire goes inand pry down while pushing the wire in..make sure power is OFF
Why do you have 3 ground wires at your subpanel?
I have the same box. I have one coming in from the main and one going out to the spa.
he has the homerun cable from the electrical source, and two cables which branch to the hot tub.
Pretty sure you undersized your 50A conductors. 8/3 UF-B isn’t rated for 50 amps. You have to use the 60 degree column. If you had used individual THHN conductors in conduit, you could have used #8, which is probably why that’s what your drawing said. Did your drawing say anything about those gauges being the minimum gauges, or about the applicability of certain NEC sections?
The electrician didn't seem to have a problem with it when I showed him everything that I had done. And no the drawing didn't say anything about the gauges minimum, I just used what was there. It's been working fine for about a year now. Also even though it's a 50amp breaker the hot tub max it will use is about 40.
I just bought a used tub and finished filling the tub up to check for leaks. So far so good, but I only have it wired with 110v for now. I can see the light is working and it has been going now for a few hours. I seen that you filled your tub up from the filter area? Is that the proper way and I messed up just filling it from the center? My tub just turned 20 yrs old, infact I need a new topper as well. Also the panels need to be redone.
Wow, I hope you can get a bunch of more years from it. I don't think it matters much where you fill it up from.
Do you need any other boding for the spa? Or is it enough with the ground wire coming from the panel?
Great job, but you ran one 8-3 wire, and I see two coming out of the block wall. Did I miss something?
If you look at the diagram at 2:32 I run the 8-3 wire from the main panel to the sub panel. Then from the sub panel I run a 12 and a 10 so I think that's where it appears like I had 1 wire that turned into two.
How do you connect the wires to the grey connector in the hot tub itself?
I can’t figure out how to insert them
There should be a punch out for the wires to go in and then you just follow the manual instructions on which receptors they go to
If you wanted to disconnect those wires, how do you do that?
You turn off the power from the breaker and then you loosen them and pull them out. Can you be more specific which wires you mean?
Look up 680.26 grounding requirements for pools/fountains/spas. You didn't show that you laid the required grounding grid
Nice video . Great description. Should be easy to follow. Are you a Delta pilot?
Thanks! No I'm not, why do you ask?
@@SuitTV silly question …thought I saw a delta tshirt on you and the way you carried yourself seemed very analytical The way you were trouble shooting just made me think that you could be. Great job again on video. I will share with my son to see if he can do it following your steps. He works on HVAC and has some electrical knowledge . Ty
Im surprised how many people run the house feed into the spa pack without any type of strain relief.
This would never pass inspection in Alberta or anywhere in Canada
Best video for my hot springs tub. Thank you!
Glad to help!
Couple things off the top of my head that come to mind you did wrong, not bashing, just to send some knowledge your way. First you used the nm-b (romex) the yellow and orange cable outside because it’s rated for indoor dry location use only article 334 in the NEC if you’re interested. A wire connector on where the uf cable entered the panel to prevent being cut from the edges of the hole and a male adapter with a bushing on the pvc conduit that came out the wall into that spa breaker panel. And I would have used THHW single stranded cables in the liquid tight flex. Also the 8-3 uf cable insulation type is rated at 60 degree C like the nm-b article 340.80 NEC, meaning it is only rated for 40 amps. The NEC and the ampacity of all the insulation types can be found in table 310.16 NEC. Had it been a different insulation type like THHN you would be fine with the 8 awg wire, but since you used uf it should be upsized to 6 awg. And that’s just a few so as to not overwhelm you.
@@usmarinekenny thanks for the feedback
You never put a jacketed 3 or 4 wire cords in conduit as you can only put single wires (not grouped and jacketed wires) as they are designed to be in the open, inside wall, framing cavities or underground in dirt (if they are for that)
Because they generate constant heat that as in (conduit) the heat generated and continues to build up inside the conduit till it burns
So change your cable that is inside of the conduit to single wires
Please watch and read from professionals and check code before you embark on your next construction/ electrical project period for your and others safety
I cant be mad at this, the title of this video is “How to wire a hot tub for dummies”.
Even tho there are lots of code violations and sloppy work the hot tub is still GFCI protected and works just fine.
Ha thanks
This would had failed an electrical inspection.
I had it inspected by an electrician and it was fine. What do you see wrong?
@@SuitTVeven though hot tub works…yes, this would have failed inspection for sure.
@@javvoltage9632 I had an electrician inspect it and he said it looked good. What do you think is wrong?
@@SuitTV off the top of my head ( I need to watch video again) what’s wrong is your 10-3 and 12-2 romex going to your spa in the liquid tight is against code, also the pvc pipe that’s coming in behind your spa pack should be a a threaded nipple (code) also the uf cable in the pvc maybe over fill you need the correct size of pipe for that (conduit fill) I will need to check the code book. The romex, 10-3 and 12-2 inside your spa is rated for indoors that spa is outdoors in wet area you need seal tight and thhn wires.
No hate but there’re quite a few code violations.
@@vash01000100 oh alright good to know. Interesting my inspector never mentioned that.
Great video. I feel like I can do this myself and save about 2k. Thanks
Np, I'd just make sure to get it all checked out by an electrician after you're done
List of violations, but you got power for now I suppose!
Gray Tape is metallic and can be a conductor. You need to hire an electrician
I hired an electrician to do mine, I'm not comfortable enough with my electrical skills. Don't want to electrocute anyone
@@earthenergyhex makes sense. Enjoy!
I don’t see any blue wires
Blue is the same thing as black
getting a quote just to learn how to do it yourself is the most annoying childish thing you can do. You have google, don’t mess with people that actually work for a living.
Do you mind sharing the link of the disconnect panel you used?