You know, I've seen a lot of your videos, they've helped me come back out of the dark ages of computing, but I must say, you are very good at what you do. Your camera presence is great, you're very knowledgeable about your topic, you explain things simplisticly and concise, you're very engaging, and the crack about outside having great HD graphics had me rolling! Job well done sir.
Negative pressure (at a ratio of 2:1) actually keeps things cooler, longer. I did a quick test with all intake fans at 100%, compared to 20% CFM intake and 40-50% exhaust, and results were surprising. I ran just a CPU stress test, and fans at 100% were only a few Celsius cooler than fans at 20-40%. Creating negative pressure may invite more dust, but from what I've seen it's the best way to cool your PC.
I’m building my first pc in the hyte y40 and the max amount of fans I can use is 7. 3 intake, 4 out. Would you reccomend or just stick with a 1:1 ratio
@@survival_man7746I don't think you understood his comment properly. He's saying that all fans at 100% (balanced pressure) only resulted in a few C cooler compared to a negative pressure setup (with max fan speed of 50%).
These tests are always highly subjective to the case and layout. Generally speaking if the case is crowded, simply having fans working against eachother makes zero sense. It's basic physics- heat needs to be transferred to the air, the air needs to be replaced. Therefore a higher through flow will always give you the best result. Unless of course your case is empty and full of holes, in which case replacing air being blown out probably isn't making much of a "negative pressure" anyway.
Negative pressure invites dust in every nook and cranny which will shorten a computer's lifespan. Make sure that the ratio of intake to exhaust is 2:1, 3:2 or 4:3. Modern cases used by computer assemblers emphasize lots of intake fans: often 3 and sometimes 6 fans from the front of the computer, and half as many fans exhausting air. They want to build computers that are better than those made on assembly lines The trick is to filter the intake fans so the dust is kept at a minimum, keep the air flow high so components are adequately cooled, and use no filters on exhaust fans so the small amount of dust that does get in remains suspended and will exhaust out of the computer. With positive, managed pressure, dust will not come into the computer through the seams and panels. Ratio of intake to exhaust from 2:1 or 3:2 or 4:3. 5:4 would produce neutral pressure and even numbers like 3:3 actually behave as negative because heat rises , GPU cards and power supplies exhaust, thereby creating negative pressure near the bottom of the case. You have to assure intake fan superiority to get sufficient air flow and movement and the benefits of positive pressure.
Heat does not significantly rise in a computer case because the air flow from the fans moves it in its direction too fast. They negate any currents that would cause it to rise.
I agree. I also use a combination of both. But I think the video could be titled something like: "Improving your PC cooling", or something more generic. He only mentioned positive and negative air pressure at the very end.
Thanks heaven, finally someone who tells the whole story in 4 minutes instead of 25. A bit of graphic would have been nice, but listen and you;'ll find out
Since you filter the intakes, it greatly reduces the amount of air pushed into the case, so you'll need more intake fans for a balanced system and even more for positive pressure. Maybe 2 to 1 intake versus exhaust, takinf into consideration that psu also acts as an exhaust.
ThatConnorGuy Yeah 4K is okay, but if you have an i3 you can't watch even 1440p without frame drops.. But what I wanted to say is that the picture quality / video bit-rate is higher, it seems.. :)
ThatConnorGuy They use an FS700 with 4K firmware outputting to an Odyssey 7Q. In front of the sensor they have a Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 VC on what I assume is a Nikon G to Sony E adapter, though maybe they've swapped to an EF mount version of the lens and a Metabones EF to Sony E Speedbooster to take advantage of in-camera adjustments, stabilization, and the extra stop of light.
Frode Angell Løtvedt yea but my human eye can’t run it :( I need to upgrade my graphics card to this thing called glasses to be able to see the fabulous graphics
When my s4 active gets warm from gaming, I put it in the sink and turn on the cold water. It cleans some smudges and it cools it down. Because it's waterproof.
Linus, I'd love to see a video that goes more in depth about optimum fan placement and that answers some other questions for noob builders like: How does the radiator from an all in one liquid cooler affect case pressure? Do the fans on a radiator factor in to case pressure or are they exhausting the hot air from your CPU directly? Is there a place on your case that you should not put an intake or should not put an exhaust? I know these are noob questions and a lot of your audience is very savvy but I think answers to the questions could benefit a big demographic. And if anyone besides Linus reads this comment and would be so kind as to answer that would be great too.
I have 3 120mm fans in-taking air in the front and bottom and 3 120mm fans exhausting air at the top and rear. Been a pretty good setup. Minimal dust and my system runs quite cool
Linus nex time consider not to hug your wife or someone with long hair before filming, that hair on your shirt is driving me crazy... That was just a minor complain, as always great informative video
full negative pressure seems to work best for me, yes it sucks in more dust but I clean it every now and then anyway. The case is a Coolermaster Elite 130, an ITX case, every fan blows outward and I've found it to be best for cooling because getting hot air out is better than getting cool air in. The difference is not night/day but this setup has been consistently cooler than having a front in-back-out setup or full positive pressure.
Thanks Linus! My case has been gathering lots of dust on my intake fan, because there are 2 exhaust ones. I'll turn one around now that I know better. :)
THIS IS THE BEST CHANNEL EVER! lol I found this channel yesterday when I was trying to find out about some stuff and stumbled across it. I've been binge watching ever since. Can't believe I never knew about it. I'm subscribed to a lot of tech channels including ncix, and knew about linus' other channel. Oh well, great channel though
Be very very careful when attempting this. PG is an alcohol, so it poses little threat, but VG can (and will) stick to delicate parts, causing accelerated corrosion, and possibly even condensing enough to cause bigger problems, such as shorting a connector and damaging parts.
So to recap if I got tht right : For general cooling objective the idea is the move the maximum of air (quantity and speed) trough the case. For dust buildups you have to make sure you have neutral or slightly positive "pressure" inside the case so as the avoid at all cost to have air flowing in trough various small holes around the case. So the best setup is to get maximum air flowing trough and at the same time beeing neutral or slightly positive inside. If not sufficient for cooling you can move more air out but this will be at the expense of dust buildups.
Good video. I will definitely take this advice to heart. One question... does it matter which way the fan attached to the CPU heat sink blows? In other words, does it matter if the fan pushes or pulls air across the heat sink?
i guess yes, it makes a difference, the ideal is for the fan to blow in through the heatsink and not blow out of it, that way more air will make contact with the heatsink and get heat out of it faster
I used to be a die hard "fan" of using positive case pressure fan arrangements until I ran into a big problem that I just could not figure out at all. My pm was constantly shutting down with no warning. After a couple hours I had narrowed it down to going some kind of overheat shut down... But my CPU and GPU and everything else that you would normally think of causing an overheat shut down were all well within the max temperatures. Long story short, I finally figured out after much head scratching and hair pulling and flaming hot cursing, that my Northbridge was overheating because the case pressure that was only SLIGHTLY positive, was creating a pocket of trapped hot air around the Northbridge... And apparently it's not all that rare for positive case pressure to create trapped hot air pockets, aka Hot Spots, in a system. This is why I switched to slightly NEGATIVE case pressure. There is ZERO chance of having a trapped hot spot in the system anymore.
Unless it wont vent out heat! (It's possible to build a PC without ANY moving parts! Just replace= HDD: replace with SSD VGA: cooler: Find a passive one or use a lower TDP card PSU: Replace with a fanless one CPU cooler: Use a NoFan 95 TDP cooler or some other fanless cooler RAM: Use RAM with heatsinks, and dont add fans! CD/DVD Throw it out!!! FDD: Just dont use it!!! PCI-e cards: Find large heatsinks you can attach to them.
I have been using the Corsair 760T for about 3 months now and all the dust is caught in the dust filters. My system is always cool and clean and that's very impressive considering this is my small bedroom, with lots of dust.
I think the only thing I might have added to this was a visual frame of reference for the viewer to work with to demonstrate slightly positive case pressure. Granted it's a no-brainer concept to visualize, but not everyone has the ability to do that. Otherwise great video as usual!
I agree with the difference that a little bit of neg pressure helps air get threw dust filters a little more without buying expensive static pressure fans
If all 4 intakes are filtered, you'll have no dust problems for the next 4 years! I have 2 highly shedding dogs...So I ran 3 intakes 1 exhaust. 7 years later, my pc is still clean(ish). I wouldn't say it's "Dust-free", but only the microparticles managed to get through the filters. These are the easiest to blow clean with a can of compressed air or ba blowdryer on a cold setting.
The picture you used when you said dust the first time hurt me physically, and I was slightly disappointed that you didn't use a picture of the map dust.
Best value for money cooling set up which is dead close to water-cooling , silenced when you need it to be silenced and generating no dust. More air in than out and all of the air traveling in same direction= no dust. 2 fans in front , 1 at the back. 1 fan in the middle attached to Processor Heatsink Evo 212 v2 /stock fan = 40 euros Fan controller box to set fans speed at 50% for silenced operation when not playing = 26 euros Arctic F12 fans. 7 euros each. Cheers.
A little late I know. Truth is, there's lot of debate on the internet about this subject because most people who comment and give their opinion as to how heat tranfer work doesnt know termodynamics and fluid mechanics, completly necesary for the subject. Same as most industrial studies about heat transfer and cooling on a cased space, the best solution is to create negative preassure. For fans, the best ratio would be 1 fan for income air and 2 fans for outcome air. Second, other important concept here is sealing, no good cooling is ever done without sealing any case, this prevent fluctuations on the preassure and a more formalized airflow. Also try to always create a one directional airflow this works lots better. If any questions about the reasons and the concept that makes this work you can ask. (Im on aeronautoc engineer) cheers.
I have the fans on the front and the one on the back of my case as an intake. Because heat rises, I use the fans on the top of my case as exhaust fans. The reason for that is for positive airflow and I also have a radiator at the top as well. My Cosmos II also has a 'basement' where my hard drives reside, so I have the fans on the sides down there as intakes and have the air exhaust out of the other side.
I have 5 Intakes at 1000rpm and one exhaust at 1300rpm. I also have a 140 and 120 fan on the massive Noctua hestsink at 1200rpm. This works great with my 5600x boosting to 4.9ghz
back and top should be exhaust, front and side should be intake....although I've seen people use the top for water cooling intake and the side as an exhaust.
Ex EddieB The second thing you said would be silly, it would make the front intake struggle. As for the OP, you can install intake and exhaust fans anyway but you need to have a good path for the air to flow from intake and exhaust, that's why front and side intake and back and top exhaust is mostly suggested.
This has been and episode I've been waiting on for a while; there's very little information that isn't subjective or opinionated about this topic at all. Through sheer experimentation a few months ago I found that slight positive pressure worked great for me with my Fractal R4 3 120mm intakes with 2 in front of my case and 1 on the bottom coupled with 2 140mm fans on the top of my case for exhaust creating an airflow system that is shaped similar to an "L" that I confirmed by using a Shark Steamer that my gf uses to get wrinkles out of her clothes has made my SLi rig never exceed 70c.
Excellent, I suggest 2 intake fans, because they have to deal with a filter and therfore slower (my current problem), the good thing is I can control fan speed with my motherboard, but that means I'm limiting my back fan speed. and making my front louder. this should help people.
Honestly, everyone's experiments or views or opinions largely don't matter. I've seen all kinds of configurations work. A lot has to do with your internals, shape/parts of the case and how air flows around things. I'm currently running like 6 intakes versus 1 outtake, and it's better than adding more exhaust. The only thing that matters is testing it out, and that really only matters if you're having heat issues in the first place.
4 120mm FILTERED intakes, 2 120mm UNfiltered exhausts. When I"m finished using my pc at night ( because it's a corsair 550d case), I put ALL the solid panel "doors" back on it to PREVENT dust from building up overnight. I've had this case since beginning Q2 2012 and Only TWICE have I really needed to spray dust out of my pc. It's a pretty great case for fighting dust build up and any atx build with some real muscle.
It's probably the thing that I focused mostly on during this video :( Kept trying to work out how he could handle having it there, if it was me, it would have been gone pretty quickly.
No. Ultimate solution is positive pressure on idle and negative pressure on full load. Negative pressure is a lot better for performance especially in long term sessions since if you have positive pressure you can start getting wind tunnel effects and a lot of "hot pockets". Use pwm fans and custom fan curves to achieve positive p. on idle (less dust) and negative p. on load (better cooling performance, since it draws air from everywhere.).
while in the abstract i do agree with the "nooks and crannies" defense i have to say its not the end of the argument. when you have a higher-end case that comes with many components and portholes that all have dust filters or mesh built into them (i.e. 5.25 bay covers with dust filters in each slot or slide-out filters on the bottom/top of the case), you suddenly have more areas where air will choose to flow first and end up catching a lot of the dirt. so that leaves us with the reason to use negative case pressure, which is pretty simple: air acts as an insulator to a certain degree and the less of it inside your case the cooler your case will be (just like out in space). Think if you had a completely airtight case and all the air drawn completely out of it your case would run very very cool because there's no air to basically bounce the energy back onto the heatsinks. like i said, this really applies to higher end cases so if youre working on a sleeper-build or just dont have much invested in a case you should probably stick to this higher pressure strategy. If youre going for a case that offers all the available dust filters and such i would definitely argue negative pressure is the way to go
eh, air is used to cool the heatsink so no air means only cooling by radiation wich is slower and it would also heat up all the other parts of the case instead of being absorbed by air and then pushed outside.
That one long stray hair that clearly didn't come from Linus.. it had me fascinated.
same x]
Geeeeez, who's QC'ing this stuff :P
Probably from Luke?
Too much hugging going on, not enough videos :P
Pussy hair, he's got a lot of cats.
That hair on Linus's shirt was annoying me to no end...
i tried to wipe it off my monitor XD
LOL yeah I noticed it as well.
I didn't see it at first. Oh god, now it's annoying me too!
what is wrong with pubic hair on your shirt?
1080p represent
Very funny reference at the beginning 2g 1c lol.
I see now 😂😂😂
It took me a minute to get it but yeah... xd
@@zbynekzapletal4167 what it means?
@@RahulAhire n o.
@@sakurauyou749 ??
You know, I've seen a lot of your videos, they've helped me come back out of the dark ages of computing, but I must say, you are very good at what you do. Your camera presence is great, you're very knowledgeable about your topic, you explain things simplisticly and concise, you're very engaging, and the crack about outside having great HD graphics had me rolling! Job well done sir.
And having said all that he still managed to talk a load of BS
@@stephenblant such as??
@@KGBos Nothing. The comment from Stephen is what BS actually is.
@@stephenblant explain
Ahh, a bot.
Was his First joke about "2 GIRLS 1 CUP"?
yes
96mb so many bad memories just because of that one joke.
hahaah. I know that feel bro.
2 Guys 1 Chick my friend :D
Alex Reflex oh, i thought it was 2 girls 1 c*ck.
Negative pressure (at a ratio of 2:1) actually keeps things cooler, longer. I did a quick test with all intake fans at 100%, compared to 20% CFM intake and 40-50% exhaust, and results were surprising. I ran just a CPU stress test, and fans at 100% were only a few Celsius cooler than fans at 20-40%. Creating negative pressure may invite more dust, but from what I've seen it's the best way to cool your PC.
of course more fan power = more cool. For a better test, all fans should be at 100% and, for example, test 2 in & 3 out vs 3 in & 2 out.
I’m building my first pc in the hyte y40 and the max amount of fans I can use is 7. 3 intake, 4 out. Would you reccomend or just stick with a 1:1 ratio
@@survival_man7746I don't think you understood his comment properly.
He's saying that all fans at 100% (balanced pressure) only resulted in a few C cooler compared to a negative pressure setup (with max fan speed of 50%).
These tests are always highly subjective to the case and layout. Generally speaking if the case is crowded, simply having fans working against eachother makes zero sense. It's basic physics- heat needs to be transferred to the air, the air needs to be replaced. Therefore a higher through flow will always give you the best result. Unless of course your case is empty and full of holes, in which case replacing air being blown out probably isn't making much of a "negative pressure" anyway.
The one time I asked an older woman what a cheap, breathable brand of pantyhose was.
So she knitted you a pair?
How old are we talking about
Big brain time
Negative pressure invites dust in every nook and cranny which will shorten a computer's lifespan. Make sure that the ratio of intake to exhaust is 2:1, 3:2 or 4:3. Modern cases used by computer assemblers emphasize lots of intake fans: often 3 and sometimes 6 fans from the front of the computer, and half as many fans exhausting air. They want to build computers that are better than those made on assembly lines The trick is to filter the intake fans so the dust is kept at a minimum, keep the air flow high so components are adequately cooled, and use no filters on exhaust fans so the small amount of dust that does get in remains suspended and will exhaust out of the computer. With positive, managed pressure, dust will not come into the computer through the seams and panels.
Ratio of intake to exhaust from 2:1 or 3:2 or 4:3. 5:4 would produce neutral pressure and even numbers like 3:3 actually behave as negative because heat rises , GPU cards and power supplies exhaust, thereby creating negative pressure near the bottom of the case. You have to assure intake fan superiority to get sufficient air flow and movement and the benefits of positive pressure.
Heat does not significantly rise in a computer case because the air flow from the fans moves it in its direction too fast. They negate any currents that would cause it to rise.
who else is here 8 years later?
9
@@Sumit_sudo_root_rm_rf11
9
9
@@smallbutdeadly931 why did TH-cam notify me
That hair really bothers me. What's the video title again ?
Haha...that's not nice.
+dean Strathras I think he means the hair on Lenus' black shirt.
I couldn't focus.
Lenus Toch Teps - bets toch teps 2016
The hair writes OC i knew it. Linus is overclocked
Title is kinda misleading since you spent 65% of the video explaining the theory of cooling. Great video btw.
I agree. I also use a combination of both. But I think the video could be titled something like: "Improving your PC cooling", or something more generic. He only mentioned positive and negative air pressure at the very end.
Thanks heaven, finally someone who tells the whole story in 4 minutes instead of 25. A bit of graphic would have been nice, but listen and you;'ll find out
Since you filter the intakes, it greatly reduces the amount of air pushed into the case, so you'll need more intake fans for a balanced system and even more for positive pressure. Maybe 2 to 1 intake versus exhaust, takinf into consideration that psu also acts as an exhaust.
Doesnt a psu get its air from outside the case though?
Video quality is like you bought a new camera :o
So clear picture..
They have uploaded in 4k for quite a while now, i think they use a black magic URSA.
ThatConnorGuy Yeah 4K is okay, but if you have an i3 you can't watch even 1440p without frame drops.. But what I wanted to say is that the picture quality / video bit-rate is higher, it seems.. :)
So clear that i can see that strand of hair on his right shoulder >.
ThatConnorGuy They use an FS700 with 4K firmware outputting to an Odyssey 7Q. In front of the sensor they have a Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 VC on what I assume is a Nikon G to Sony E adapter, though maybe they've swapped to an EF mount version of the lens and a Metabones EF to Sony E Speedbooster to take advantage of in-camera adjustments, stabilization, and the extra stop of light.
Le Monarque Whoa.. I'm no video expert pal..
Thanks for making the video Linus I wasn't sure how many intake vs exhaust fans I should have.
"before we move outside, although I heard it has great graphics". Greatest line ever.
Linus, the hair on your right shoulder annoyed me this whole video
THANKS! I'm not alone xD
but who was it from :O
i don't even know why i'm so annoyed too..
Sameee
***** SHETTTTTTTTTTT WHY'D YOU HAVE TO MAKE ME NOTICE
Live referenced this video so many times over the years. Easily the most concise info dump on case pressure
Outdoors have greate graphics!? I laughed out loud!! :D
The gameplay sucks though
And you cant respawn :(
its not my type of game tbh.
Frode Angell Løtvedt yea but my human eye can’t run it :( I need to upgrade my graphics card to this thing called glasses to be able to see the fabulous graphics
Ahhaahaha me too
When my s4 active gets warm from gaming, I put it in the sink and turn on the cold water. It cleans some smudges and it cools it down. Because it's waterproof.
Watercooling, ghetto style. You should try to attach an h100i to it so you can oc it @ 4ghz.
iMrzifyyy
You do realise he meant the Samsung Galaxy S4, yeah?
Not sure if srs.
The S4 is not waterproof at all. It's somewhat water resistant but not waterproof. Big difference.
Voyd Void read....
Laurence W ***** He is being sarcastic...
Linus, I'd love to see a video that goes more in depth about optimum fan placement and that answers some other questions for noob builders like: How does the radiator from an all in one liquid cooler affect case pressure? Do the fans on a radiator factor in to case pressure or are they exhausting the hot air from your CPU directly? Is there a place on your case that you should not put an intake or should not put an exhaust? I know these are noob questions and a lot of your audience is very savvy but I think answers to the questions could benefit a big demographic. And if anyone besides Linus reads this comment and would be so kind as to answer that would be great too.
Finally a simple a usable advice about negative vs. positive pressure in a PC case!
LINUS!!! THERE'S A HAIR ON YOUR SHOULDER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
lol your right
calvin ouwens what about his right?
KillerBillPickle what about my right
what about all rights
adza botchway lol illuminati confirmed
I have 3 120mm fans in-taking air in the front and bottom and 3 120mm fans exhausting air at the top and rear. Been a pretty good setup. Minimal dust and my system runs quite cool
Linus nex time consider not to hug your wife or someone with long hair before filming, that hair on your shirt is driving me crazy... That was just a minor complain, as always great informative video
***** well, that changed my view on Linus Media Group...
full negative pressure seems to work best for me, yes it sucks in more dust but I clean it every now and then anyway. The case is a Coolermaster Elite 130, an ITX case, every fan blows outward and I've found it to be best for cooling because getting hot air out is better than getting cool air in. The difference is not night/day but this setup has been consistently cooler than having a front in-back-out setup or full positive pressure.
HAHAHAH the comments made me change the quality of the video and figure out what hair they talking about. damn it people have time for this lmao
I have a square space site from your suggestion! And I'm happy so far.
I tried the used panty hose trick and now my PC smells funny !!
mind telling me whats that trick?
wash them before attaching them to your PC
hehe thanks for the laugh
Pantyhose are taboo and embarassing in India so I can't use them.
A K bruh he is not askin you to wear them. Order one off amazon and add it to your PC. Jfc.
you can use plumbers' "smoke pellets" to test air flow. Thanks for the vid
No idea what those are yet, but thanks for the heads up! I'm installing a few fans soon and that could help out
That big hair on Linus's shirt :o
A Fast as Possible on types of UPS would be nice as well as including the benefits of just running one in general.
Love this guy. This is edutainment at its best!
Thanks Linus! My case has been gathering lots of dust on my intake fan, because there are 2 exhaust ones. I'll turn one around now that I know better. :)
Could you do a video on coil whine? What causes it and how to fix it?
This person here would also love to know.
Matt Hoffman Same here.
i sorta know so a vid would help clarify this :)
And I also want to know in which video cards / power supplies is coil whine most common.
He already has a coil whine tech quickie...
THIS IS THE BEST CHANNEL EVER! lol I found this channel yesterday when I was trying to find out about some stuff and stumbled across it. I've been binge watching ever since. Can't believe I never knew about it. I'm subscribed to a lot of tech channels including ncix, and knew about linus' other channel. Oh well, great channel though
can you use vape to simulate airflow?
Please
! this should be a thing
an actual reason to Vape
Vapor wave
Be very very careful when attempting this. PG is an alcohol, so it poses little threat, but VG can (and will) stick to delicate parts, causing accelerated corrosion, and possibly even condensing enough to cause bigger problems, such as shorting a connector and damaging parts.
use 100% PG juice!
So to recap if I got tht right : For general cooling objective the idea is the move the maximum of air (quantity and speed) trough the case. For dust buildups you have to make sure you have neutral or slightly positive "pressure" inside the case so as the avoid at all cost to have air flowing in trough various small holes around the case. So the best setup is to get maximum air flowing trough and at the same time beeing neutral or slightly positive inside. If not sufficient for cooling you can move more air out but this will be at the expense of dust buildups.
Good video. I will definitely take this advice to heart. One question... does it matter which way the fan attached to the CPU heat sink blows? In other words, does it matter if the fan pushes or pulls air across the heat sink?
i guess yes, it makes a difference, the ideal is for the fan to blow in through the heatsink and not blow out of it, that way more air will make contact with the heatsink and get heat out of it faster
I used to be a die hard "fan" of using positive case pressure fan arrangements until I ran into a big problem that I just could not figure out at all. My pm was constantly shutting down with no warning. After a couple hours I had narrowed it down to going some kind of overheat shut down... But my CPU and GPU and everything else that you would normally think of causing an overheat shut down were all well within the max temperatures. Long story short, I finally figured out after much head scratching and hair pulling and flaming hot cursing, that my Northbridge was overheating because the case pressure that was only SLIGHTLY positive, was creating a pocket of trapped hot air around the Northbridge... And apparently it's not all that rare for positive case pressure to create trapped hot air pockets, aka Hot Spots, in a system. This is why I switched to slightly NEGATIVE case pressure. There is ZERO chance of having a trapped hot spot in the system anymore.
Haha so my computer is basically my own heater in my room lol!
I can fry eggs on my LCD
Must be the LCD inverter. My Dell laptop's LCD inverter gets hot.
Unless it wont vent out heat! (It's possible to build a PC without ANY moving parts!
Just replace=
HDD: replace with SSD
VGA: cooler: Find a passive one or use a lower TDP card
PSU: Replace with a fanless one
CPU cooler: Use a NoFan 95 TDP cooler or some other fanless cooler
RAM: Use RAM with heatsinks, and dont add fans!
CD/DVD Throw it out!!!
FDD: Just dont use it!!!
PCI-e cards: Find large heatsinks you can attach to them.
You earned my upvote with "I heard the outside has great graphics" sir ;)
3 intake, 3 exhaust for me.
3 intake, 2 exhaust.
3 intake, 1 exhaust.
3 intake, 0 exhuast
3 intake, -1 exhaust
Now that's just silly!
Should post what was missing in :50. Another great video though guys! Loving TechQuickie!
Can't get over the hair on your shoulder. Great episode as always...
I have been using the Corsair 760T for about 3 months now and all the dust is caught in the dust filters. My system is always cool and clean and that's very impressive considering this is my small bedroom, with lots of dust.
"outdoors, although I've heard it has great graphic" makes me laugh everytime
Wow; dat 4k vid quality is insane. I kept staring at that strand of hair on Techquickie LinusTechTips right shoulder. INSANE!!!
There's a hair on Linus' right shoulder
Guys, it's amazing how cool Squarespace is.
Mom, I took your pantyhose..... Don't ask!
but: can you use an unused one too?XD
Best video in ages. Never knew this and now feel like a noob. Cheers Linus
That hair on his right shoulder annoyed the hell of me :P
Freaky. I was in the middle of watching JayzTwoCents video on Positive vs Negative pressure when i get a notification saying this has been released.
Legend says that hair is still believed to be on that shirt.
I think the only thing I might have added to this was a visual frame of reference for the viewer to work with to demonstrate slightly positive case pressure. Granted it's a no-brainer concept to visualize, but not everyone has the ability to do that. Otherwise great video as usual!
The entire beginning all I could look at was the hair on his shoulder XD
Love all the references in these videos
outside 2 has the best grafs 2014
I agree with the difference that a little bit of neg pressure helps air get threw dust filters a little more without buying expensive static pressure fans
Question: I have 4 intake fans and 1 exhaust fan, how's that for dust?
not enough air can get out, so not all dust can escape. i think atleast
If all 4 intakes are filtered, you'll have no dust problems for the next 4 years!
I have 2 highly shedding dogs...So I ran 3 intakes 1 exhaust. 7 years later, my pc is still clean(ish). I wouldn't say it's "Dust-free", but only the microparticles managed to get through the filters. These are the easiest to blow clean with a can of compressed air or ba blowdryer on a cold setting.
The picture you used when you said dust the first time hurt me physically, and I was slightly disappointed that you didn't use a picture of the map dust.
kkkkkkkkk 2G 1C!!! that was nasty!!!
I went to the 'outside' today. The quality is even better than UHD 4K :O
YOU HAVE A PIECE OF HAIR ON YOUR SHOULDER
thanks 4k.
Best value for money cooling set up which is dead close to water-cooling , silenced when you need it to be silenced and generating no dust.
More air in than out and all of the air traveling in same direction= no dust.
2 fans in front , 1 at the back.
1 fan in the middle attached to Processor Heatsink Evo 212 v2 /stock fan = 40 euros
Fan controller box to set fans speed at 50% for silenced operation when not playing = 26 euros
Arctic F12 fans. 7 euros each.
Cheers.
dat hair on Linus' shoulder tho
A little late I know. Truth is, there's lot of debate on the internet about this subject because most people who comment and give their opinion as to how heat tranfer work doesnt know termodynamics and fluid mechanics, completly necesary for the subject.
Same as most industrial studies about heat transfer and cooling on a cased space, the best solution is to create negative preassure. For fans, the best ratio would be 1 fan for income air and 2 fans for outcome air. Second, other important concept here is sealing, no good cooling is ever done without sealing any case, this prevent fluctuations on the preassure and a more formalized airflow. Also try to always create a one directional airflow this works lots better.
If any questions about the reasons and the concept that makes this work you can ask. (Im on aeronautoc engineer) cheers.
That hair on your shirt bothers me :(
I have the fans on the front and the one on the back of my case as an intake. Because heat rises, I use the fans on the top of my case as exhaust fans. The reason for that is for positive airflow and I also have a radiator at the top as well. My Cosmos II also has a 'basement' where my hard drives reside, so I have the fans on the sides down there as intakes and have the air exhaust out of the other side.
0:04 2 Girls 1 Cup
We know
I have 5 Intakes at 1000rpm and one exhaust at 1300rpm. I also have a 140 and 120 fan on the massive Noctua hestsink at 1200rpm. This works great with my 5600x boosting to 4.9ghz
That hair on your shoulder/chest part is distracting the hell out of me ! LMAO
I'd been waiting for this video for a long time. Thanks, guys!
You have either a hair or a bit of fishing line on your shoulder, Linus. =]
Linus's product placement marks the first time ever that I find myself actually not minding adverts...
One more question...the intake or exahuse can be installed anywhere right? I got 4 empty fan holes..2 at the side and.the other 2 at the top
exhaust*
back and top should be exhaust, front and side should be intake....although I've seen people use the top for water cooling intake and the side as an exhaust.
Ex EddieB The second thing you said would be silly, it would make the front intake struggle. As for the OP, you can install intake and exhaust fans anyway but you need to have a good path for the air to flow from intake and exhaust, that's why front and side intake and back and top exhaust is mostly suggested.
just know basic physics rule which means hot air rises and cool air sinks.....
intake should be bottom and outake is other wa around.
***** that would screw with any front intake and back exhaust he would currently have, bad idea.
This has been and episode I've been waiting on for a while; there's very little information that isn't subjective or opinionated about this topic at all. Through sheer experimentation a few months ago I found that slight positive pressure worked great for me with my Fractal R4 3 120mm intakes with 2 in front of my case and 1 on the bottom coupled with 2 140mm fans on the top of my case for exhaust creating an airflow system that is shaped similar to an "L" that I confirmed by using a Shark Steamer that my gf uses to get wrinkles out of her clothes has made my SLi rig never exceed 70c.
that fucking hair on your shirt drove me insane
Omg me too!! It's not his... Who does it belong to?
Anthony D'Apice Its lukes. He was trying to get his job back...
hmm... the power 4K huh? Superb Clarity ~
Yes we
I dont 👎
The extreme HD resolution makes that hair on Linus's shoulder extra noticable...
Hahahaha my amd build warm up my room so hot that im sweating
In this regards the fractal r4 is a beast for moving air not only that it is silent as well
That hair on the right shoulder!!!!!
Confusing as heck, bro. But thanks, had to watch it like three times to get the idea.
Dat 2g 1c joke :D
Excellent, I suggest 2 intake fans, because they have to deal with a filter and therfore slower (my current problem), the good thing is I can control fan speed with my motherboard, but that means I'm limiting my back fan speed. and making my front louder. this should help people.
1:37 He sounds genuinely disgusted with children...
I love the energy when you said "children"
That hair on Linus's shirt interfered greatly with my enjoyment of the video.
Honestly, everyone's experiments or views or opinions largely don't matter. I've seen all kinds of configurations work. A lot has to do with your internals, shape/parts of the case and how air flows around things. I'm currently running like 6 intakes versus 1 outtake, and it's better than adding more exhaust. The only thing that matters is testing it out, and that really only matters if you're having heat issues in the first place.
THE HAIR , CANT UNSEE
4 120mm FILTERED intakes, 2 120mm UNfiltered exhausts. When I"m finished using my pc at night ( because it's a corsair 550d case), I put ALL the solid panel "doors" back on it to PREVENT dust from building up overnight.
I've had this case since beginning Q2 2012 and Only TWICE have I really needed to spray dust out of my pc. It's a pretty great case for fighting dust build up and any atx build with some real muscle.
that hair on linus's shirt doe...
LMAO The "2 Girls 1 Cup" reference was hilarious!!
That hair on his right shoulder....
I test the airflow with my E-cig. Works great.!
that piece of hair on your shirt is bugging me
A blow-in from -ve air-pressure? Too long to be Linus' hair!
Also, you're certainly not the only one with OCD watching!
&B^{P>
It's probably the thing that I focused mostly on during this video :( Kept trying to work out how he could handle having it there, if it was me, it would have been gone pretty quickly.
It's his hooker's hair :x
me watching this on mobile @ 144P negates any noticing of hair on any tee shirt. lmao (data thrift i am)
Young Carter Leave Luke out of it.
No. Ultimate solution is positive pressure on idle and negative pressure on full load. Negative pressure is a lot better for performance especially in long term sessions since if you have positive pressure you can start getting wind tunnel effects and a lot of "hot pockets". Use pwm fans and custom fan curves to achieve positive p. on idle (less dust) and negative p. on load (better cooling performance, since it draws air from everywhere.).
"Used pantyhose"
UHHHHHHHHHHHH LINUS?
I made a pantyhoe filter for an intake funnel once, for an older machine, worked a charm.
Thank goodness I don't use that older machine anymore.
while in the abstract i do agree with the "nooks and crannies" defense i have to say its not the end of the argument.
when you have a higher-end case that comes with many components and portholes that all have dust filters or mesh built into them (i.e. 5.25 bay covers with dust filters in each slot or slide-out filters on the bottom/top of the case), you suddenly have more areas where air will choose to flow first and end up catching a lot of the dirt.
so that leaves us with the reason to use negative case pressure, which is pretty simple: air acts as an insulator to a certain degree and the less of it inside your case the cooler your case will be (just like out in space). Think if you had a completely airtight case and all the air drawn completely out of it your case would run very very cool because there's no air to basically bounce the energy back onto the heatsinks.
like i said, this really applies to higher end cases so if youre working on a sleeper-build or just dont have much invested in a case you should probably stick to this higher pressure strategy. If youre going for a case that offers all the available dust filters and such i would definitely argue negative pressure is the way to go
eh, air is used to cool the heatsink so no air means only cooling by radiation wich is slower and it would also heat up all the other parts of the case instead of being absorbed by air and then pushed outside.