@@Keegan_Lynch honestly speaking from experience Do suspension upgrades then if you want get the air filter and a high comp piston and it will destroy on a track
@@sagenbabin8786 yeah I enjoy doing engine work so that was where I started. Now that I’ve got some seat time on it riding on a track and doin some trails and hill climbs I’ve pin pointed what needs to be done
@@Keegan_Lynch just be conservative with power gains because I did a big bore high comp v2 with a 26mm car and it’s to much for the small tracks And not enough for bigger tracks But it’s so much fun I hope you can get that bike to perfection and enjoy it as much as I do mine
@@sagenbabin8786 that’s a similar issue I had, I haven’t raced mine yet but It’s a little too rowdy at times. Thought about rerouting the open air filter back to the factory box with a couple holes for air flow and jetting down some just to calm it down some
Never let one idle during the first few heat cycles (break-in). It's best to give small inconsistent revs. It gives the rings a better chance to seat evenly. Once it's hot. Shut it down. Let it cool completely and give that a few more go's and your set.
Yup. Be nice the first few rides then ease into the higher rpm’s. My 110’s had quite a few hours on it since this video. Runs hard as hell, smokes all of my friends 110’s for sure
@@nicksimpson4469 I’m sure there’s something in the forums that state it, there is a local dyno for motorcycles to me but it’s kind of spendy to get a session when I could just buy more parts. From what I’ve been told it nearly if not double the hp with the racehead, cam and carb. Otherwise the standard 143cc big bore I believe made around 12-13 hp give or take. This is probably closer to 16ish
Extremely large increase. I think they’re rated at 8ish hp stock this kit puts it’s around 13-14 I believe. Pair it with a stroker crank and you’re looking at the 16-17 or higher range. Just keep in mind if you do split cases to put a stroker in it might as well do a takagwa shift drum as well to get rid of the annoying klx neutral shift. And tb parts heavy duty clutch has the stiffest springs to help keep it from slipping. With this kit you can get away with bbr springs and tb parts clutch fibers but anymore then that and the tb springs will be needed
Never had an issue with burning up the clutch surprisingly but im sure if you ride it a little more aggressively and clutch pop a lot it’d wear a little faster
@@adamhill2788 been nearly 2 years, sold the bike last year but still in the contact with buyer. Besides valve adjustments he hasn’t had to tear into the engine yet and he’s been racing it since he bought it. I’m building a ttr for my wife now
@Keegan_Lynch I've got a ttr110 I race fairs and GP tracks at my local mx track...I'm wanting to big bore it to finish off the mod 110 build....I've got just about everything else done but the bore n head/cam...love my ttr110🤘
@@adamhill2788 very cool and different pitbike, personally even I feel way more comfortable on the ttr chassis then I did on my klx and previous crfs I’ve ridden but I’ve heard their frames do not hold up too well with adults jumping them. Before I get too crazy with it I’ll find a way to brace the frame a little better
@Keegan_Lynch I'm 6' 1" and 210lbs...got my suspension dialed in n over sized foot pegs and jump it with 0 issues so far...it's a blast spicing up these 110s🤘🛵
Gobs more power, to the point where it’s almost necessary to get an extended swingarm to keep the front wheel down and more aggressive tires to maintain traction
Hey man I watched you video on installing this. We just did the 143, v2 head, and mikuni carb on my buddies bike. Timing looks dead on, valves are set to .003 everything looks good but it's pretty hard to kick and the carb sounds like it's sucking alot of air. Any ideas what could be wrong or is it just the way it is?
And the harsh kick is kinda normal with this kit, high compression without decompression for starting does make it a good bit harder to start then stock. My 110 was way harder to start then my 125
@Keegan_Lynch no excessive sound besides how much air is going in the pancake filter. The valves sound fine and it idles okay. The starter seems like it doesn't even want to turn the motor over
@@ethanwilliams8732 could be jetting related, short intakes also tend to have that effect. When i first had this kit with just the pancake filter mine would do the same when trying to start. Worse when it was hot. Later on i got a bbr u flow and didn’t have anymore issues. Wouldn’t hurt to check for intake leaks in front of the carb too though just to be safe
I recently did this exact same kit on my 13 110L, it has a ton more torque, however, on the top end my friends stock 110 is outrunning it. Same sproket sizes on both. Does this seem right?
good video sometimes I wish I got the RL over the semi auto I'm tall and I know the bike sits taller I had one in 2020 I just didn't like my bike always hitting false neutral so I went with the R this time but sits so much lower 😢
I really missed my big bikes so I wanted the clutch pretty bad. Height is lovely too. Could always swap suspension over to the R model tho! Little spendy but worth it. I will say I like the autos a lot more on hill climbing especially with the power mine has now. Loops really easy
Also if you are thinking about going this route I have a friend that runs this kit and another with the 165cc version that he’s been racing the last two years and both engines held up and are still running like a top!
Better make sure your cam isn't 180 degrees off. That hole isn't a timing mark. Lobes towards the piston is the correct way. Just trying to help man!! Good luck!!
@@laxcmc22 On my Z125, the logo ended up being the "timing mark" The cam must be installed with the lobes facing the piston, so more than likely, that TB logo on your cam will be the "timing mark". I really wish TB would address this issue and actually make the cam with an actual timing mark on it.
@@patricktofil5990 super late hopefully you see this, yes I was an idiot and originally set it 180 off, bike will actually run like this which is the funny part lol. Lobe faces should face the piston or easier to remember the rockers or valve springs depending on engine should be riding on the dead side of the cam. So no lobe lift. That’ll be where you measure your clearances
Every so often it’s expected to need valve adjustment. I hate this style rocker since they ones are the highest maintenance. I need to adjust mine here soon. No noticeable loss in performance but the tappets are noisier
Nice work you deserve more views and subscribers
Thanks man, I'm trying to get the ball rolling. I knew this video wouldn't collect as many views as the D3 video but we'll see as time goes on.
Finally someone else running a v2 with high comp piston
Shit is so damn torquey it’s insane
It’s a blast for sure. Definitely will be getting a longer swingarm in the spring
@@Keegan_Lynch honestly speaking from experience
Do suspension upgrades then if you want get the air filter and a high comp piston and it will destroy on a track
@@sagenbabin8786 yeah I enjoy doing engine work so that was where I started. Now that I’ve got some seat time on it riding on a track and doin some trails and hill climbs I’ve pin pointed what needs to be done
@@Keegan_Lynch just be conservative with power gains because I did a big bore high comp v2 with a 26mm car and it’s to much for the small tracks
And not enough for bigger tracks
But it’s so much fun
I hope you can get that bike to perfection and enjoy it as much as I do mine
@@sagenbabin8786 that’s a similar issue I had, I haven’t raced mine yet but It’s a little too rowdy at times. Thought about rerouting the open air filter back to the factory box with a couple holes for air flow and jetting down some just to calm it down some
Never let one idle during the first few heat cycles (break-in). It's best to give small inconsistent revs. It gives the rings a better chance to seat evenly. Once it's hot. Shut it down. Let it cool completely and give that a few more go's and your set.
Yup. Be nice the first few rides then ease into the higher rpm’s. My 110’s had quite a few hours on it since this video. Runs hard as hell, smokes all of my friends 110’s for sure
@@Keegan_Lynch It sounds extremely good. Has a good thump. Any idea on hp or hp increase this kit makes?
@@nicksimpson4469 I’m sure there’s something in the forums that state it, there is a local dyno for motorcycles to me but it’s kind of spendy to get a session when I could just buy more parts. From what I’ve been told it nearly if not double the hp with the racehead, cam and carb. Otherwise the standard 143cc big bore I believe made around 12-13 hp give or take. This is probably closer to 16ish
break in is a myth. Couple heat cycles and just ride it. go wild after about an hour.
That tool box is 🔥 🥵
Big $
I used to have a Snap On box like that one, same color n all...even came with a touch up paint pen🤘
just put like 2500 in upgrades on the bike looking to do big bore next. is it a really big increase in power/ is it worth the $?
Extremely large increase. I think they’re rated at 8ish hp stock this kit puts it’s around 13-14 I believe. Pair it with a stroker crank and you’re looking at the 16-17 or higher range. Just keep in mind if you do split cases to put a stroker in it might as well do a takagwa shift drum as well to get rid of the annoying klx neutral shift. And tb parts heavy duty clutch has the stiffest springs to help keep it from slipping. With this kit you can get away with bbr springs and tb parts clutch fibers but anymore then that and the tb springs will be needed
How’d the clutch hold up over time? I got a 17 I’m gonna install the same big bore and would prefer to not do the clutch rn
Never had an issue with burning up the clutch surprisingly but im sure if you ride it a little more aggressively and clutch pop a lot it’d wear a little faster
How reliable are those big bore n race heads? Still running 1yr later??
@@adamhill2788 been nearly 2 years, sold the bike last year but still in the contact with buyer. Besides valve adjustments he hasn’t had to tear into the engine yet and he’s been racing it since he bought it. I’m building a ttr for my wife now
@Keegan_Lynch I've got a ttr110 I race fairs and GP tracks at my local mx track...I'm wanting to big bore it to finish off the mod 110 build....I've got just about everything else done but the bore n head/cam...love my ttr110🤘
@@adamhill2788 very cool and different pitbike, personally even I feel way more comfortable on the ttr chassis then I did on my klx and previous crfs I’ve ridden but I’ve heard their frames do not hold up too well with adults jumping them. Before I get too crazy with it I’ll find a way to brace the frame a little better
@Keegan_Lynch I'm 6' 1" and 210lbs...got my suspension dialed in n over sized foot pegs and jump it with 0 issues so far...it's a blast spicing up these 110s🤘🛵
Does this give you more power
Gobs more power, to the point where it’s almost necessary to get an extended swingarm to keep the front wheel down and more aggressive tires to maintain traction
I got a 2004 klx110. Can it be converted to hand throttle ?
Hand throttle? As in quad style with a thumb lever or do you mean clutch instead of auto?
@@Keegan_Lynch hand clutch
@@Greybuiltracing yeah it can be converted. Tbparts should have an entire kit for it
Hey man I watched you video on installing this. We just did the 143, v2 head, and mikuni carb on my buddies bike. Timing looks dead on, valves are set to .003 everything looks good but it's pretty hard to kick and the carb sounds like it's sucking alot of air. Any ideas what could be wrong or is it just the way it is?
Any excessive sound when running? Chance the cam tensioner wasn’t set correctly?
And the harsh kick is kinda normal with this kit, high compression without decompression for starting does make it a good bit harder to start then stock. My 110 was way harder to start then my 125
@Keegan_Lynch no excessive sound besides how much air is going in the pancake filter. The valves sound fine and it idles okay. The starter seems like it doesn't even want to turn the motor over
@Keegan_Lynch but it'll start by kicking it. Just seems really hard to kick. Maybe I'm overthinking it? Just tune the carb and send it?
@@ethanwilliams8732 could be jetting related, short intakes also tend to have that effect. When i first had this kit with just the pancake filter mine would do the same when trying to start. Worse when it was hot. Later on i got a bbr u flow and didn’t have anymore issues. Wouldn’t hurt to check for intake leaks in front of the carb too though just to be safe
I recently did this exact same kit on my 13 110L, it has a ton more torque, however, on the top end my friends stock 110 is outrunning it. Same sproket sizes on both. Does this seem right?
No it doesn’t, could vary on which cam you chose with the kit? And possibly jetting issue or your friend bike may not be as stock as they say.
actually did you upgrade your clutch by chance? Mine slips like hell at the top of 3rd and 4th
@@Keegan_Lynch It did up being the clutch lol!
@@CoopQoop figured so, I need to upgrade mine too. Would be a good how to video for some but there’s a million out there already
good video sometimes I wish I got the RL over the semi auto I'm tall and I know the bike sits taller I had one in 2020 I just didn't like my bike always hitting false neutral so I went with the R this time but sits so much lower 😢
I really missed my big bikes so I wanted the clutch pretty bad. Height is lovely too. Could always swap suspension over to the R model tho! Little spendy but worth it. I will say I like the autos a lot more on hill climbing especially with the power mine has now. Loops really easy
Also if you are thinking about going this route I have a friend that runs this kit and another with the 165cc version that he’s been racing the last two years and both engines held up and are still running like a top!
what about the Cam chain? you didnt replace?
Brand new motor. My bikes a 22 and when I did the engine work it only had 4 hours on it tops.
Better make sure your cam isn't 180 degrees off. That hole isn't a timing mark. Lobes towards the piston is the correct way. Just trying to help man!! Good luck!!
Yeah i figured it out later on, later in the video I corrected myself lol. Been a while since I’ve done work on a dirt bike
So the b on the cam is supposed to be pointing towards the tick mark?
@@laxcmc22 On my Z125, the logo ended up being the "timing mark" The cam must be installed with the lobes facing the piston, so more than likely, that TB logo on your cam will be the "timing mark". I really wish TB would address this issue and actually make the cam with an actual timing mark on it.
So when you added the comment about setting valves to turn cam 180 was that because the cam was installed 180 off?
@@patricktofil5990 super late hopefully you see this, yes I was an idiot and originally set it 180 off, bike will actually run like this which is the funny part lol. Lobe faces should face the piston or easier to remember the rockers or valve springs depending on engine should be riding on the dead side of the cam. So no lobe lift. That’ll be where you measure your clearances
What year is this bike?
2022, bike had 3 hours when I did this
@@Keegan_Lynch I have the same bike. Where did you line up the mark on the cam gear to adjust the values. At TDC? Or pointing to the front wheel?
@@Tom-qk4rg the mark should be at the top of the head when timed. Or at valve overlap
hmmm that’s probably why my bike ticks so had
Every so often it’s expected to need valve adjustment. I hate this style rocker since they ones are the highest maintenance. I need to adjust mine here soon. No noticeable loss in performance but the tappets are noisier
Refer to the workshop manual
Pardon?
You gotta kick the engine over very slow for the first start up so you don't reck any of your parts
25 hard hours since this video she’s running good