Thats what we usually do. But i wanted to make sure people without the tools could accomplish it as well! Its always nice having the proper tools to do the work tho as well 🤝
@@simplyminis2064just got it running yesterday, had to wait a while on a new output shaft bearing. Thanks for the video man it was a huge help. It was my first bottom end rebuild
I haven't finished putting mine back together. My first time doing a bottom end and it wasn't as scary as I thought but their is definitely a lot that can go wrong. thanks for the helpful video
Great video I didn’t have the crank tool so I froze my crank over night and then heated up the case with a blow dryer and she popped in within 5 mallet hits
Hey man thanks for the vid. I used it to do my stroker crank. Was curious as to what you recommend for jetting changes going from the 143 with v2 to the bigger crank??
I use a vm26 carb. Jetting wise i run between a 180-185 jet depending on outside temperature. Im at sea level basically. For the needle clip i normally run 2 up from the bottom or in the middle.
I appreciate a good engine build But you’ve got my dream bike I have the v2 race head the high comp forged piston the big bore But I really want the bbr procomp swing arm
@@simplyminis2064 I agree It just costs 2 grand The bike isn’t worth that But tbolt has a swing arm that bolts up to the klx it just takes a few modifications to work
Great thorough video guys. I was having a hard time coming up with a build direction for my 06 klx110 and I’m just gonna copy y’all! Simple, easy, clean. Keep up the good work! Let’s see a dyno video to see how much hp this build puts out! What do you guys do for fueling/ carb set up?
I’m planning on installing a stroker crank and V2 race head. Already running a 143, VM26 and full exhaust. Do you have any thoughts on sending the fly wheel out and get it lightened?
Hey I think I am going to need a new flywheel and the thing that goes on the back of it. I have a 2017 KLX110L btw. Do you know anywhere that sells the flywheel assembly including the thing that screws on the back. I can buy OEM, but that is $300 and I would prefer not to spend that much lol.
Go on planetminis 2.0 and make a post looking for what you are looking for. You might get lucky and somebody might have a chooched bottom end theyd sell you parts off of.
You don’t use the oring under the cylinder felt gasket? I didn’t use one on my 155 build but just curious with your experience on these motors what you think about using them. No leaks on mine so far, I’d image it’d be fine cause it’s just stopping oil from coming out unlike a two stroke motor
Hello, I just got done following this video to complete my mini build. It ran awesome for a bit now the kick starter won’t engage. It seems to when I have the manual clutch cover off but when I put the cover back on it doesn’t. An idea what I did wrong?
Did you have the timing mark in the head not line up perfect? Did my build with almost all the same parts with this video and a the klx guide but my head timing seems to be a half tooth off at tdc
They just are that way sometimes. Its rarely ever dead on. But if you go a tooth back or a tooth forward, it will be off noticably. You will know if its right.
@@simplyminis2064 Thanks, that one was driving me insane. I am still kicking myself because the gear sleeve at 29:11 fell out when I pulled the case apart and I put it back together without it:(. That part isn't in the service manual or other videos. I just happened to see it on the second go around with this video (thank you for catching it).
my chinese yx150 gives those crf110 the smoke easily. then the excuses start coming out. they most used excuse ive heard was im still breaking it in. no bish your not its a 2016 its beyond broke in
Was very instuctional until this shitty takegawa clutch kit… looks like dudes used some stock parts and some takegawa parts but never says what to use with the clutch kit🤦🏽
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Doing this kit right now, I actually used my case splitter to press the crank in. Worked like a charm
Thats what we usually do. But i wanted to make sure people without the tools could accomplish it as well! Its always nice having the proper tools to do the work tho as well 🤝
@@simplyminis2064just got it running yesterday, had to wait a while on a new output shaft bearing. Thanks for the video man it was a huge help. It was my first bottom end rebuild
@@JaysTrain08 awesome man! Thats what we do it for. Glad we could help! 🤝
I haven't finished putting mine back together. My first time doing a bottom end and it wasn't as scary as I thought but their is definitely a lot that can go wrong. thanks for the helpful video
Glad i could help!
Great video! Thank you so much for making it so in depth I only used it for putting my V2 race head on but it was such a help!
Thank you!! I appreciate the kind words 🤙🏻
Great video I didn’t have the crank tool so I froze my crank over night and then heated up the case with a blow dryer and she popped in within 5 mallet hits
Thanks man i appreciate it! Nice thinkin with the freezer trick, thats another great way 🤙🏻
The moment I have been WAITING for!!!
Yeah buddy 🤙🏻
Very informative! You make it look easy.
Thank you sir!
Hey man thanks for the vid. I used it to do my stroker crank. Was curious as to what you recommend for jetting changes going from the 143 with v2 to the bigger crank??
Good question! Here for the response
I use a vm26 carb. Jetting wise i run between a 180-185 jet depending on outside temperature. Im at sea level basically. For the needle clip i normally run 2 up from the bottom or in the middle.
Some motors also like one up on the pilot from factory size. Ive also had some that like the stock pilot jet more.
Great vid, thank you! When setting up this head (I bought the same kit), did you use valve clearance of .003?
Yes i use a clearance of .003 on both intake and exhaust.
I appreciate a good engine build
But you’ve got my dream bike
I have the v2 race head the high comp forged piston the big bore
But I really want the bbr procomp swing arm
The procomp is one of the best swingers so far in my opinion!
@@simplyminis2064 I agree
It just costs 2 grand
The bike isn’t worth that
But tbolt has a swing arm that bolts up to the klx it just takes a few modifications to work
Excellent video!! Thanks!!
Thanks i appreciate it! 🙌🏻
Great thorough video guys. I was having a hard time coming up with a build direction for my 06 klx110 and I’m just gonna copy y’all! Simple, easy, clean. Keep up the good work! Let’s see a dyno video to see how much hp this build puts out! What do you guys do for fueling/ carb set up?
Appreciate the kind words. Maybe i will get it on a dyno someday!
Awesome video thank you!!
No problem! Glad we could help 🙌🏻
I’m planning on installing a stroker crank and V2 race head. Already running a 143, VM26 and full exhaust. Do you have any thoughts on sending the fly wheel out and get it lightened?
Getting the flywheel lightened is always a nice upgrade. Makes it quite snappy. Legacy minis is a great place to send your flywheel for this upgrade.
Hey I think I am going to need a new flywheel and the thing that goes on the back of it. I have a 2017 KLX110L btw. Do you know anywhere that sells the flywheel assembly including the thing that screws on the back. I can buy OEM, but that is $300 and I would prefer not to spend that much lol.
Go on planetminis 2.0 and make a post looking for what you are looking for. You might get lucky and somebody might have a chooched bottom end theyd sell you parts off of.
Please don't lube the outside of the seals before installing. Install them with YamaBond on the outside.
Ive always lubed them. Never caused me a problem. Id rather not glue them in with sealer. Ive never had a leak. To each their own my man.
You don’t use the oring under the cylinder felt gasket? I didn’t use one on my 155 build but just curious with your experience on these motors what you think about using them. No leaks on mine so far, I’d image it’d be fine cause it’s just stopping oil from coming out unlike a two stroke motor
@@tylerclutter9586 no sir these do not require that. Crf50s have a required o ring under the felt gasket, klx110s do not.
Do you think the backside of the case where the bearing is getting beat into should be supported? Or is the case pretty strong and shouldn’t crack
Ive never had an issue. But for a piece of mind, you could do it. Cant hurt honestly.
Hello, I just got done following this video to complete my mini build. It ran awesome for a bit now the kick starter won’t engage. It seems to when I have the manual clutch cover off but when I put the cover back on it doesn’t. An idea what I did wrong?
Also wouldnt you use the primary gear with the takegawa clutch basket (not the stock basket)
Did you have the timing mark in the head not line up perfect? Did my build with almost all the same parts with this video and a the klx guide but my head timing seems to be a half tooth off at tdc
They just are that way sometimes. Its rarely ever dead on. But if you go a tooth back or a tooth forward, it will be off noticably. You will know if its right.
Can you remember the bearing codes ?
@@ThrottleandPedals not off the top of my head. But the bearings are easily found sold in a nice little kit. They give you everything you need.
at 19:44, there is a metal ring and O ring just above the shift drum and to the left of the timing chain guard. Where do those go?
That goes on the output shaft on the outside of the left case if your sittin on the bike. Goes in before you install the front sprocket.
@@simplyminis2064 Thanks, that one was driving me insane. I am still kicking myself because the gear sleeve at 29:11 fell out when I pulled the case apart and I put it back together without it:(. That part isn't in the service manual or other videos. I just happened to see it on the second go around with this video (thank you for catching it).
best video
Appreciate it! 🤙🏻
What are the valve clearances for this setup?
I run .004 on intake and exhaust.
I did everything exactly how you did it, but i cant get my shift shafts to move… any idea?
@@KOFAFO did you ever figure it out. Its probably a small detail you are missing. Its easy to not get them in there right.
By chance do you have a link to that crank press ?
Let me see if i can find it. Ill get back to you 🤙🏻
www.amazon.com/dp/B007WGEFOM/ref=cm_sw_r_api_i_4JNV15433ZXC0FWAV78E_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
T-bolt USA is the best
@@michaelsaint7325 they are a solid company.
Kawasaki just loves to instal those plastic gears on oil pumps. That’s the weakest point of the engine if not a planned obsolescence manifested
@@denisdemidovitch6897 ive honestly never had a problem with them. Not even on a built to the hilt klx engine.
my chinese yx150 gives those crf110 the smoke easily. then the excuses start coming out. they most used excuse ive heard was im still breaking it in. no bish your not its a 2016 its beyond broke in
Was very instuctional until this shitty takegawa clutch kit… looks like dudes used some stock parts and some takegawa parts but never says what to use with the clutch kit🤦🏽