I'm a field adjuster for an insurance company and I mainly inspect roofs all over the nation. The main problem we typically find are not wind damages, hail damages or normal wear and tear, but poor installations, poor materials, poor workmanship, lack of nailing down the tiles to the wood decking, less than 3" overlap between tiles exposing anchoring like in this case. This case is very sad as hundreds of cases I had seen during my time in this trade.
Carlos Zapata You & me both friend... Bad installations are the most common cause of roofing system failures. They’re just plain bad juju... Because of bad labor practices by other roofers I was never without repair work & a decent income. But that’s the bright side. Dark side is, somebody has to pay for it. Thanks for watching.
If you buy a house from a big building contractor it's like playing Russia Roulette! The builder goes with cheapest tender for all trades .. you may be lucky with your roofer or very unlucky !
@@rickphillips5098It’s not just with the big builders. It’s everywhere today. Tell me what’s to make a tradesman do a quality job these days? Tradesmen need to be very conscientious if they’re gonna do quality work first of all, because they have to compete against everyone else who has a ‘get it done & get paid’ mentality. Secondly, they have to have a sense of conviction that motivates them to care about others more than they care about themselves. Third, they need to have character to be conscientious when nobody is watching them. Where are you gonna find those character traits without God Himself motivating the tradesmen to a higher standard of excellence than the crappy status quo today? Answer… you’re not.
Thanks for the info! I wouldn't have even known what to look for but my roof started leaking and found many of these exposed nails. I wished I would have read the comments on the fix. I didn't use the metal, only a big glob of roofing sealer over the nail hole. I see your fix will last longer! Thanks again for the info!
Thank you for posting all of your videos. Even if I decide to pay someone to fix my roof, with the information you've provided, I can still keep an eye on the work to see if they are making mistakes. It's unnerving to know I have to do this with a professional.
Indeed... And that is good for you & for the contractor's reputation as well. Nobody likes being told what to do, but we are all grownups here & need to act like it. This is your house, not theirs' & they need to do things right if they're going to be serving the public. It's one thing to get into someone's way & micromanage their work. That can be counterproductive. That's why it's important for you to know the "Whys" behind the craftsmanship, so I believe it's perfectly reasonable to simply expect people to do quality work & learning how & why things ought to be done or not done is the first step to the consumer getting quality work out of their contractors - regardless of whichever trade they're in.
Contractors should be responsible enough to know his hired hands know and perform quality work it's his reputation at stake it seems to be a worker issue IMHO sometimes contractors call, but not always skilled tilesetter knows better.
@@milotorres6894 A lot of "contractors" are scammers, (psychopathic behavior) and care nothing about their victims. It's up to the consumer to investigate their contractors. Being a predator is a whole industry in itself.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I just had my roof redone after the felt underlayment failed and developed a leak. Fortunately it was under the patio and not inside the house. My contractor used the peal and stick fire and ice-type underlayment. I do have a question for you. Is it normal for nails to be partially exposed after a roof repair? I have several areas under my patio where nails are poking through and splinters knocked off in the process.
So yes… but they need not be poking through very far. They can be, but it’s aesthetically unpleasing. They have to be poking through at least a little bit, because…! The chisel point of a nail will force its way back out of the roof deck if any portion of the point remains inside the roof deck when natural expansion & contraction occurs due to heating/cooling cycles of daily & annual weather. Most roofers don’t know this, but will often default to using longer nails & leave them poking through an inch or more because they are typically Neanderthals who don’t appreciate aesthetics like most homeowners do. It’s just the reality of our current construction culture & practices.
It may not be an end of the world problem, but it surely could put a dent in your bankroll. I am retired and living the pursuit of happiness in Ecuador where virtually all roofs are tiled and leak. I have enjoyed watching your videos to better understand what is going on with the roof we live under.
Your perspective is interesting, accurate & quite the norm for most people around the world, but here in the West we're used to our roofs being water tight. Thanks for watching...
Last month and this month have been particularly wet here in Cuenca, EC. My wife and I have seen a number of collapsed rotted roofs around town. Take care and thanks for sharing such meaningful information. ed
i wonder if the owner can contact the roofers or contractor who did the work and possibly take legal actions for non workman like construction. It does seem like negligent work. You would imagine the roofers would have been mindful. It appears you are extremely knowledgable and i like that you are an advocate for quality . keep up the good work!
Bryan De La Cruz pretty sure as long as he had 3 inches of overlap or whatever the manufacturer requires his ass is covered. Not saying he did a good job though
Thanks for the info. We recently had a cluster of micro bursts which uncovered the exposed nails that you've identified in your video. Many of my "S" tiles and "Caps" came loose because of stretching and or no nails used to secure tiles. Most of my damage was to the caps more so than the "S" tile. Alot of nails are visible just below the cement caps as well. I've gone through installing many new nails and using roof tar over the tops of the nails. My house is only 7yrs old, so we'll see how the roof holds up.
Roof tar is good, but you can also glue in small galvanized flashings to cover those nails & remain waterproof for a much longer period of time than just using roof tar. Some instances may require flashing installation over the exposed nails & other not so much. Thanks for watching.
@@MrThedocholiday Hi DD. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll probably wait until the temp drops below 90°F before going back of the roof. I will definitely do that though. Additionally, the installers didn't nail down any of the cut pieces of "S" tile. So, theres that. I've got my work cutout.
@@Painters_Tape from the sounds of it your roof will be a mess and a problem until its all addressed. Tile can last a life time and then some if done correctly. Less than 10yr you might have general contractor on hook but I doubt it somehow little fish get eaten in this capitalistic world not developers. Send me pictures ill happily explain in detail how to fix yourself, as long as you don't hurt yourself.
@@woodpeckerroofing93 thanks for replying. I was able to find tile at the boneyard which I installed myself. I'm pretty sure I got it correct. We've had a good amount of rain and wind. So far no issues with what I did. I was told from the outset of the build that the entire project was under warranty for 10yrs. I quickly found out that isn't the case with the roof. The roofer wanted $1500 to fix the broken tiles, I did it for under $200. Thanks for the video, it really helped!
Is it showing on the tiles the correct overlap? Maybe the solution would be to address the manufacture and have it specified on the tiles. Thank you for pointing this out on TH-cam.
The manufacturers specify the minimum & maximum course layout requirements for all their tiles. Problem is, with all roofing tile installations, the courses need either stretched or compressed, depending on the size of the roof. So if the manufacturers put a line on their tiles where the overlap should go, most roofers would put it there & end up messing up the layout pattern at each ridge. That would result in partial course cut tiles at the ridge that couldn’t be fastened properly because they would have the upper support lug cut off & need a nail hole either drilled, or a slot cut in each ridge tile to fasten with nails, since the manufacturer’s nail hole was cut off due to incorrect overlap layout. So there is no set measurement for layout… only a range of minimum & maximum that the roofer MUST follow in order to get correct amount of overlap & still have the tiles sit properly on the roof deck. Typical maximum exposure is 13.5”, but the roofer needs to make sure that the installed lap is sufficient at that general max measurement. It’s considered the roofers job to make sure the overlap is correct, regardless of the manufacturer or the person who snaps the tile course chalk lines out on the felt paper.
If a permit has to be pulled to install a roof why didn't the inspector stop the work. I have to get a new roof installed and I don't know who to trust. The roof estimates so far in South Florida is $18k to $20k for a S tile roof. Thanks for sharing.
Stace g Most roofers don’t even know what they’re doing. How’s an inspector with general roofing knowledge supposed to catch something that roofers do wrong who are supposed to have specific roofing knowledge? Very few craftsmen are trained how to do things the right way nowadays. I used to train some of the best roofers on the west coast how to do this stuff. Sometimes inspectors catch things if they’re careful...
Stace g Because inspectors know less about specific roofing issues than the average roofer does. Add to that the fact that these issues are often hard to see unless you have experience looking for them. I was a quality control agent, customer service rep, estimator, salesman, purchasing agent, pieceworker, journeyman & hourly pickup man for ten years before I ran my own successful 20 year roofing contractor business in So Cal. I was taught how to roof by three different business owners & one good high school friend who’s reputations were on the line. You just have to know what to look for or know someone’s go does.
Go with a Stone-Coated Steel Tile roof. Concrete Tile roofs are nothing more than a huge heavy pile of SHIT over your head! Does not matter how well there are installed!
Dan what material do you recommend to use around the penetration, and around skylights, my house is 35 years old, and the grout around all of the penetration, and skylights are starting to srink up really bad, and starting to leak into my house in a few spots, I just don’t have any faith in the quality of work that the contractors here in Albuquerque do, and of course the contractors that have been here have given me a quote of $6500 for 12 penetration, and 4 skylights! Thank you so very much for your awesome videos, even though I’m disabled, I’m going to go do this work for myself!!!
Wow! There’s definitely money to be made these days in roofing, isn’t there? Anyway, I like all the roof penetrations to be mechanically lapped so they’re water tight with flashings & roofing before any sealant is even applied, but that’s an ideal world & we have to live in the real world, don’t we. So after everything is mechanically flashed as much as possible, I like to use quad OSI for the remaining surface or sub-surface penetrations. Quad OSI can also be painted to match the various roofing colors for an added layer of uv sealant protection, so it lasts longer exposed to the weather. The only exception is the penetrations on the felt paper. For the felt I like good ole tar saturated roof cement. The reason is because the tar saturated roof cement needs protected from the uv rays unlike other topical sealants used on or near the surface.
Thanks friend. That’s my goal. Seen too many homeowners suffer from substandard construction labor practices & would like to see that change. Like to see more homeowners learn about the how & why behind the systems in their homes also. Thanks for watching.
@@MrThedocholiday Dan what material do you recommend to use around the penetration, and around skylights, my house is 35 years old, and the grout around all of the penetration, and skylights are starting to srink up really bad, and starting to leak into my house in a few spots, I just don’t have any faith in the quality of work that the contractors here in Albuquerque do, and of course the contractors that have been here have given me a quote of $6500 for 12 penetration, and 4 skylights! Thank you so very much for your awesome videos, even though I’m disabled, I’m going to go do this work for myself!!! Dan what material do you recommend to use around the penetration, and around skylights, my house is 35 years old, and the grout around all of the penetration, and skylights are starting to srink up really bad, and starting to leak into my house in a few spots, I just don’t have any faith in the quality of work that the contractors here in Albuquerque do, and of course the contractors that have been here have given me a quote of $6500 for 12 penetration, and 4 skylights! Thank you so very much for your awesome videos, even though I’m disabled, I’m going to go do this work for myself!!! Reply
If you used some type of modified tape with tar in the adhesive, that might work, but the tarpaper you’re sealing with it would need to be clean & the top side of the tape would need to somehow be prevented from sticking to the tile when the tiles are reinstalled. Tar is probably best for at least 3 reasons… 1. Tar (Henry’s) rehydrates the felt paper you’re sealing with it so you get a good seal. 2. Tar has just the right amount of adhesion to the felt without sticking too intensely to the tile being reinstalled on top of the tar. & 3. Tar is the best product I’ve found for both cleaning the felt, incorporating the remaining dirt on the surface of the felt & sealing the nail holes with just a small dollop & a few swipes of a trowel. The first swipe applies the Henry’s. The 2nd & 3rd swipes incorporate the remaining surface dust into the tar & push the tar into the nail hole really well. Also, I make it a point only to put the tar on the nail hole itself & not where the tile lugs rest on the felt. Occasionally you’ll need to pull tile up again to repair an area a second time in the future - if you miss something the first time or if another issue arises that requires you to remove the tiles again in that area. So the last thing we want is for whatever sealant we use on the felt to stick to both the tile & the felt, & then rip the felt apart the next time the tiles are removed. I’ve had to re-repair a lot of other people’s repairs over the years & it’s always a bad day when there’s too much adhesion between the felt & the tiles, because the felt almost always rips apart & sometimes tiles will even break when removing the tiles a second time when there’s too much sealant or adhesion. We want to keep everything modular & serviceable as possible & seal everything up well, while keeping the future in mind. Henry’s seems to be the best product for this application & checks all the boxes of the demands put on it as well as or better than anything else available. Just a little practice with a trowel & doing your best to clean the felt before sealing should produce the best results for both the speed of the repair as well as success in sealing the felt paper. Hope the time I’ve taken to explain, helps. Thanks for watching. Godspeed!
Living in Sun Lakes, AZ our community is full of this exact type tile roof. Now witnessing numerous house roofs being repaired or redone. Very few of these homes would be 25 years old. No doubt the initial install was not done properly. Wondering if owners with S Tile roofs ever get an inspection and then do the re roofing in sections to spread out the cost? Fixing leaks as they occur, I've now had two on my 15 year old in last three years roof seem like a headache. Thoughts?
John Hartman usually after two different repairs I start recommending a reroof. Really depends on the situation & condition of the underlayment. Every situation is different. Tile roofs are very modular though & repairs are pretty straight forward as long as it’s not a systemic problem like stretched courses.
Hi Dan, thanks for your very informative videos. I just had a roof repair today for a corner section about 3 feet by 3 feet that caused a leak due to a cracked membrane or paper where the water was pooling per the. Contractor and I don't know if I was scammed to pay $1750. He used the word he "modified" the area by applying that sticky black paste like asphalt but did not put the tile back that he removed and when I asked to put the tile back he said he can put it back but he will remove his 1 year warranty since he can't assure by putting back the tiles it will not cause the leak again. He also mentioned that the tile is just for cosmetics and only works 70% and the rest of the protection is done by the paper and I don't need to worry about some little cracked tiles as long as the paper is intact. He even left 1 tile cracked in the middle even if I have available unused tiles. Please provide feedback.
Civilian here, but "wow!" He's already been paid so I would find someone else to get help from. Educating yourself here is a good place to start. Listen to Dan about cracked tiles and your contractor's work. I'm 76 and up on my roof to replace the underlayment myself because I don't trust contractors.
bammbamm12 Good request... Unfortunately I don’t have pics or video to show of hurricane damage, but I could describe it for you. It would look like otherwise quality roofing of any type that has been installed properly & according to manufacturer’s specs, which has subsequently been ripped up or damaged after the fact by high winds (70+ mph) or other flying debris. Lots of roofing gets damaged in harsh weather conditions but only when that damage happens, despite being quality material that is installed correctly, should that damage legitimately be considered “hurricane damaged”. Thanks for watching.
@@MrThedocholiday - Thank you, but what I meant was, "how can you tell, after a storm, whether the damage was pre-existing, or was the result of the storm? "
Nice video I like the S tile videos you do cause my house has these and I've learned so much! I just recently have gone up and put bird gaurds on my solar panels, what a job that was! I respect you roofers so much I was hurting from head to toe, it take strength to walk around up there. But anyways these damn solar people do really bad work on my tiles in putting them back or fixing ones they broke but there are a lot of loose tiles and some they stacked and just left up there on my skylight! Now with the information ive learn from your videos I will be watching whoever goes on my roof thanks a million! Buy the way I live in the Tracy Central valley area if you know any good guys thanks.
L C Central Valley is at least 2700 miles from me now. Best advice I can give for finding any good contractor is 1. Do a background check several licenses first at CSLB.ca.gov 2. Check public reviews online of those who pass the license background check 3. When you contact them to schedule an estimate, negotiate to have a supervisor check the work being done on your roof daily. You do those three things & you’ll come out miles ahead no matter what any contractor does in or around your home. License background check hyperlink says “license check“. Godspeed!
Hi Dan, great video, I know you’re no longer in California but I thought maybe you could recommend a roofer in riverside woodcrest area if California, thank you for your help
I simply don’t have a solution for the lack of quality roofing contractors in so cal. All I can advise is to screen them carefully from the local business listings. License background checks can be done online at CSLB.ca.gov & go from there. Online review websites can give you an idea what the local community says about their services & after you decide on one or two possibilities, you should always negotiate with them to have a supervisor check work daily being done on your house before you agree to hire them. Hope that helps.
My house have the same problem but in a smaller area. Since I don't have a single 'grand', I'm going to have to up climb there, fill every gap that I can see (even if I have to go one by one) with cement and then cover the entire area with water-proof paint. Because the shingles look good in their natural color, but it's just too expensive to keep making repairs inside of the house. And it's humiliating to live with water leaks.
My advice is don't do the waterproof paint. It can trap more water than it keeps out. Is your roof tile or shingles? If it's tile like this one you can seal the nails with sealant & then place a small piece of galvanized sheet metal under the tile above & covering over the exposed nail that you just put the sealant on. That way each nail will have both sealant & a small metal flashing covering them & keeping most if not all the water out of your roof. That is how I fixed this roof but it was very time consuming. It's still better than reroofing when you're broke.
Right. My roof is tiles, not shingles (sorry about the misname) and they are not hold by nails. The construction company used cement only at the border of the roof area to keep them in place. Some of my neighbors' houses have the same problem, some others don't. The problem is that the soil where I live has a lot of movement, and the tiles must have displaced a few millimeters and that is what is causing the water to leak. A further inspection revealed that there's is a small (but visible) gap between some of the tiles, particularly at the front end. It will be risky, but I think filling those gaps with waterproof mortar will reduce the problem or eliminate altogether. I wonder: How is the paint going to trap the water? from inside the house?
Exodus Each type has different qualities though both are made from similar materials. Flat tile are a tight installation while s tile have a much higher profile & potentially allow for critters to nest in or easily enter through the gaps. The drawback for flat tiles is they don’t allow for very good water run off management around obstacles like chimneys, valleys, metal flashings & the like. Each type of tile has its own good & bad characteristics & their desirability depends solely upon which characteristics you prefer on your roof. There are also durability characteristics that vary between the two types as well. Low profile s tile is a decent compromise between the characteristics of both extreme types. Hope that answers your question.
Duster Dan Thank you ! Is there such a thing as which one is better ? beside the look it creates such as the S shapes being the Spanish mission look vs the modeled look the flat gives.
How would this stretched roof look on a asphalt roof? My inspectors saying I need a new roof because my asphalt roof is stretched I had never even heard of this term until today. I see how this could be damaging in a roof like the one in this video but what about the damaging effects for an asphalt one?
Erika Rodriguez With asphalt shingles you have basically the same scenario... The nails holding shingles in place are supposed to be covered by about a half inch of the next course of shingle above. Stretched courses result in exposed nails along the nail pattern line, Exposed side seams & premature deterioration of the felt underlayment due to excessive moisture penetration. All roofing manufacturers advise on weather exposure & course measurement parameters for each of their products to keep your roof water tight & maintain their warranties.
mbaja25 It’s simple... If you can see the nails, rainwater can get through the holes that those nails are going through to hold the tiles in place. Even if tucked under a little, if the nails are still visible then water can get to them & through onto the felt to wear the feltpaper out & cause leaks.
Nice info good catch for the owner to rectify before it gets ugly over pennies saved on the dollar ridiculous consistently hacked no matter how good it looks warranty won't hold water.
Frank Kallam you can silicone a small flashing over every exposed nail & tuck it up under the tile above, but that’s only if the felt underlay is still good after all the nails weeping for years.
SHAMILA LENNARD Just screen your contractor carefully. Check their license status. Check public reviews for them online. Negotiate during the estimating/bidding process to have a supervisor check the work daily being done for you.
Dan, We may have a similar problem with our tile roof (home is only 18 years old). We've spent thousands try to "fix" the roof (felt paper replaced 2x ) but it started leaking again. We live in Southern California. How can we contact you and hire you to help? We really need someone we can trust to fix these leaks. If you're not available, is there anyone else you would recommend to help us fix our roof leaks?
Chris B I’m not in So Cal anymore & retired my state contractor’s license there. The best I can do from out of state is to be your roofing consultant. I don’t refer other roofers because although I have known many, I don’t have confidence they could solve your problem like I would if I were there. And, I would hate to refer someone that I couldn’t supervise & then have them let you down.
@@MrThedocholiday Thanks for the fast response. Darn, I wish you were still working. Your expertise, honesty, wisdom, and excellence are much needed! Decided to work with an experienced electrician (and all-around handyman) friend of mine and diagnose and fix the issues ourselves. Don't trust that yet another contractor will do a good job. After trying 4 different roofers in the last 10 years (last one was an "expert" recommended by our insurance company) and listening to your advice and experience, I realize I will have to do this myself to do it right and have it not leak again in a 1-2 years. Been watching your videos and several others, and learned a lot. Thank you so much for the information and advice you provided. It was a great reality check. It confirmed what I suspected about the many roofers and contractors out there. FYI, regarding the exposed nails with insufficient coverage (which may be one issue), I was thinking of sealing them in to stop the leaks. Researched and saw that I could use RT600 Adhesive or BASF MasterSeal NP1 Urethane Sealant or TAM-Pro Q-20 Premium SBS Flashing Cement. Is any of these best or is there another sealer/adhesive you would recommend?
Hey Dan, thanks for the info, I just had my roof done in Miami and I too find a lot of errors made. I confronted the roofer who said that it's properly done. I am awaiting an inspection of his work from a roof inspector and can't wait to hear his/her verdict on the job is. I need to know, how can I get a non-biased roofer to come to see the work and give me an opinion on whether it was properly installed? I have contacted some roofers and explained why I need a second opinion, they shy away because it was done by another roofer and they don't want to interfere with that. Please help.
Danielle Lys You can get free installation instruction details from roofing distributors & manufactures. Compare those details with how the contractor installed your roof. Make sure the “errors” you’re referring to are not simple roofer installation preferences that fall within what your local code allows for. Everyone does things differently. The questions are... 1. Does the installation meet code & 2. Does the installation comply with the manufacturer’s warranty specifications? If the installation fails either of those tests, you have a grounds to file a complaint with your local contracting regulatory authority & leverage for motivating your roofing contractor to make all necessary changes to comply with both the local regulating agency & the shingle manufacturer. I ought to do roofing consulting...
Also find out what product was used, take pictures of concerns email the manufacturer. If anything you take away from this video is there is tons and tons of people doing sloppy work that looks ok but its not always ok. Situation reminds me of a comedy guy jokes about his Dad saying " somebody going to get a hurt real bad" financially anyway is how it is for unlucky homeowners too often from poor craftsmanship. Also check attic for little leaks if something looks off on roof but not leaking water. Could be hidden damage growing.
Dan, I just had my roof underlayment replaced and roofer stretched south side tiles to remove a row of tiles. This made the top crown tile to barely cover the top row of large tile. I called him out on it and he said it is fine. This all happened a month ago. Since then I have installed solar. Now i want them to put the roof back the way it was. Need advise, How do you think I should proceed. Lawyer, small claims court? Got a quote to fix it for 13.5k. Already spent 24k for job. Needing help! Southwest Riverside County location
Hello again Dan, is there anyway I could send you some pictures of my roof job to get your opinion on whether I should contact state board or just live with it? I could send through my gmail account. I can’t attach any photos to this reply. If not that is ok.. Thanks.. Brian
Edward Ruggeroli Sorry, no... But same advice... 1. Compile short list of possible contractors in your area from whatever source you prefer. Do a background check on the license at state regulating agency to check status of their license. 2. Check public reviews of contractors in good standing with license board online at Yelp & Angie’s List to see what public says about their services. 3. Negotiate with contractors who pass first two steps to see if they’re interested or n doing the work with the understanding that they will have a supervisor check the work done on your roof daily to assure their laborers are doing quality work. Godspeed!
Well Dan, I don't fault you for being frustrated with systemic incompetence present within the roofing industry, there are simply too many untrained, unethical people in construction.
And that’s why it’s important to inform customers & teach them how to screen those dirtbags. Accountability can help those shady contractors see there’s equity & profit in doing things better. Thanks for the encouragement & for watching!
The question of tile overlap is really irrelevant. What is important is how much the tiles above overlap the nailholes in the tiles below each course. You should overlap the nailholes in the course below by at least half an inch. More is better...
Only ~20k? Does the cost of these types of roofs vary by region? I'm looking at a property, and they are talking about charging ~$1,000 a square for roof replacement. As I'm typing I think I realize that is probably for full felt replacement, and not just removing the tile. Either way, your couple videos on tile roofs gave me a lot of insight. Thanks!
Every roof is different... Also, every contractor is going to apply a different quality of labor. All roofs are NOT created equal & neither are degrees of labor quality. If you're gonna spend thousands of dollars you have to do your research. I always spend tons of time educating my customers as to the how & why whenever I interact with them. There is no other smart way around construction projects unfortunately; especially when dealing with human nature.
Hello Duster! I saw your TH-cam videos, and i really need your help. How can I contact you? Are you still fixing roof, are you available for great Riverside area? Please. I really appreciate if you would help me. Marisa.
How did you repair??? By the way, great videos!! we don't have many of the tiled roof roofs in Pittsburgh PA but it was cool seeing your repairs. Hope I can use some of your tips in the future?
Olive567 Bird I used sheet metal & sealant to flash every single one of these exposed nails. I caught this problem early, before the felt paper underlayment deteriorated, so on this house, it was just a matter of preventing the weather from getting through the tile. Many other houses don't fair so well, because by the time the homeowner finds out about this problem, it's too late, the felt is worn out & it's time to reroof.
Garrett Littleton Eagle is & always was my go-to tile, because Eagle is the best performing tile out of all of them in my 30 year experience based opinion. In any case, I’ve reroofed enough houses to know that it’s just as cost effective to buy all new tile.
2024 lol The difficult part was ALREADY DONE, thanks; that was, to FIND the problem; I would just buy 100 cartridges of mastik,PU, silicone, ... and go one by one with it, no question at all...
That still won’t solve the underlayment issues from years of stretched courses. We can apply all the silicone on the planet & still not fix the bad felt underneath. Point is… stretched courses always result in having to tearoff an otherwise perfect roof, just to replace the felt.
You would need more rows of material at the top ...because they have stretched out the courses;... too far so you’re going to need to put those courses in ... loosing roughly an inch or two closer ;...to the ground ...therefore : you’re gonna need like 3 to 4 extra courses of new material....
MiKyahl You’d have to make sure it is thick enough & doesn’t trap water by letting water get behind & then not allowing the water to flow out. Water does funny things in a downpour. The key to a watertight roof is managing the water flow, not merely keeping the water off the roof. I like the flashing method here more than any kind of topical sealant application for many reasons, not the least of which is because it’s most similar in function to having the tiles installed correctly in the first place.
Each tile has a manufacturer’s nail hole. Depending on tile thickness, each tile typically requires at least one 8d or one 10d nail to fasten it to the roof deck. Each subsequent tile installed should cover the nail & nail hole of the previously installed tile below by at least 1/2” in order to maintain a virtually watertight barrier. Many various tiles may appear to be covered sufficiently when they are not, due to the viewing angle of the installers & the lower edge shape of the covering tile itself. It’s the roofer’s job to establish a sufficient overlap of each subsequent tile & tile course to maintain a virtual watertight seal throughout the entire roof at all times. Unfortunately, very few roofers take this responsibility seriously. Installing & removing nails in already installed tiles in the middle of the field in ways that maintain proper overlap is a nuanced skill & requires specific tools to do efficiently, but is possible when attention to detail is maintained. This is often necessary when doing repairs or replacing broken tiles during the initial installation. Code calls for 30lb ASTM rated felt paper underlayment where I worked for 30 years in So Cal & this standard has proven sufficient to last at least 50 years or more depending on the quality of the tile installation itself. Upgrades to underlayment can be made, but upgraded underlayment is no substitute for proper tile installation & must be an expensive premium material if it is expected to maintain a watertight barrier beneath improperly installed tile. Underlayment is not intended by the factory to be the primary watertight barrier… the tile is. The underlayment is designed to keep the minute amount of water that passes through the tile from entering the residence. And as long as the tile protects that underlayment like it’s supposed to, standard underlayment will maintain a watertight barrier for the length of time the manufacturers guarantee the tile roofing products. I get a lot of arguments on this ‘underlayment’ point from non-experienced roofers, but they have not seen thousands of roofs personally, done thousands of roofing inspections on good & bad installations & completed thousands of roofing repairs & installations like I have done over the last 35 years. So I really don’t expect them to understand my perspective. But having them lack proper experience to know better doesn’t change the facts.
My roof tile even blow away when a heavy wind happened, the worker didn't nail it! The contractor ask me $450 to replace two pieces of tiles and I have prepare the tiles.
The $450 was probably a minimum fee policy. Most companies won’t even do repairs because they’re not worth their time. And then there’s the liability factor of customers wanting repairmen to come back & fix it again for free if something goes wrong on the first repair. There are solutions but roofing repairs aren’t easy or cheap. That’s why it’s important to do things right the first time. We’ve had cheap laborers who didn’t know what they’re doing, or didn’t care about customers, infiltrating the work force & undercutting roofing wages for decades. And now customers are hard pressed to find a good roofer worth their salt. Roofers & customers need to work together to bring back equity to the roofing industry & until one side or the other is willing to invest & knows how to hold people accountable, it’s only gonna get worse. My ranting is done... Thanks for watching.
roberto viverros Yes, you don’t want to cut the first course or the last course. You want all courses to be whole courses. So you achieve that by using a marked tape to swing at an angle from top of first course to ridge & mark all your courses by each pre-determined mark on your tape - making sure none of the courses are greater than the maximum weather exposure recommend by the tile manufacturer. Each manufacturer has their own recommendations & the roofers need to know how to swing a tape while they mark & chalk out the courses, after felt paper is installed. This is basic roofing practice & anyone not knowing how to mark courses properly on a roof should NEVER be on the roof without a supervisor overseeing their work. This is why substandard roofing labor costs the local communities millions of dollars every year. Cheap laborers without proper training & skills cost homeowners billions every year across the nation! The roof in this video is just another example why unskilled laborers should NEVER be hired for such a job, but y’all know they’ll get hired anyway, because that’s the way affirmative action policies work.
roberto viverros yes 15 and 1/2 first row but next rows are 14" the Most, but if you can't reach a whole piece on the very top roof you should divide your roof to minimize at least 13 or 13 1/2
there shouldnt be a nail there at all in the first place IMO. in florida they foam the tiles in place, no nails. im dealing with a botched roof job currently as well. impossibly to find a good contractor it seems.
Andrew Rossello The only way to hit that mark would be with quality installations & the definition of quality would be defined by how long it last, not how good anyone claims it is or who installs it.
You want to complain. Visit ASia and see them laywered on 1" angle brackets; no screws; the rains flow up and leak all over. coconuts hitting them and you replace all; start top to bottom with the dumb ass idea of overlapping.
ed.G. Hansen My only gripe really is that the customers have to pay for shoddy workmanship at the end of the day & there's no way to sustain an economy where people don't take pride in quality work. So my complaint is more of an economic/cultural complaint than anything. I'm hoping to encourage people to get back to a mindset where our economy can thrive based on quality rather than slackers just trying to make a quick buck at the customer's expense.
I noticed you left two comments now regarding my complaint about this issue... So are you saying that because it's worse elsewhere that it's unreasonable for me to bring this to the attention of others? Roofers have the technical knowledge made available by the manufacturers regarding course spacing on these tiles & yet they ignore those specs & waste millions of dollars of the customer's hard earned money every year & I'm not supposed to complain about that because it's worse elsewhere? I'm trying to understand your point. Please clarify... Thanks in advance.
Dan. my point was its far worse in Asia. NO stanstands, no quality and no one cares. Your problems in TH-cam I wish I had I can't walk on tiles as there is 1" angle iron holding them in place overlapped. not even tied up with wire. if something hits them; they all off. and onto the person below . You will never see boards support or anything to access tiles where I"m at. SAD but true.
Overcoming the difficult task of bringing about positive change begins with the courage to take on what we perceive to be the impossible, in the hope that God will use our five loaves & two fish for His glory & for the good of people. I've been at this now for 30 years & absolutely love bringing equity to the table whenever I can. Not everyone appreciates it but some do & that's where our hope is realized & becomes a tangible asset.
your complaining ? At least you have nails and not just resting on the lip on a 1" L beam that is ready to fall off. Thats the Asian way to do it the cheapest; worst way
ed.G. Hansen also the American way..... California doesn’t walkways require nails. ESP in low slow roofs usually only ridge starters hips ect need nails
That falls in both categories in my book... a little not knowing how to install ‘S’ tile & a little not caring how to install it, or some combo of the two. 🤨
Frank Chambo Stop complaining? Add cement? I live for pointing out this kind of crappy labor to customers & even to the whole world! Maybe next time the customer won’t get the short end of the stick. This is what we get from cheap unskilled labor that isn’t supervised. Thanks for watching!
@@MrThedocholiday thanks for your video, I have learnt something about nailing roofs, I work in construction too. Edit :I have to admit that from the time I started working on roofs I make this mistake.
I'm a field adjuster for an insurance company and I mainly inspect roofs all over the nation. The main problem we typically find are not wind damages, hail damages or normal wear and tear, but poor installations, poor materials, poor workmanship, lack of nailing down the tiles to the wood decking, less than 3" overlap between tiles exposing anchoring like in this case. This case is very sad as hundreds of cases I had seen during my time in this trade.
Carlos Zapata You & me both friend... Bad installations are the most common cause of roofing system failures. They’re just plain bad juju... Because of bad labor practices by other roofers I was never without repair work & a decent income. But that’s the bright side. Dark side is, somebody has to pay for it. Thanks for watching.
If you buy a house from a big building contractor it's like playing Russia Roulette! The builder goes with cheapest tender for all trades .. you may be lucky with your roofer or very unlucky !
@@rickphillips5098It’s not just with the big builders. It’s everywhere today. Tell me what’s to make a tradesman do a quality job these days? Tradesmen need to be very conscientious if they’re gonna do quality work first of all, because they have to compete against everyone else who has a ‘get it done & get paid’ mentality. Secondly, they have to have a sense of conviction that motivates them to care about others more than they care about themselves. Third, they need to have character to be conscientious when nobody is watching them. Where are you gonna find those character traits without God Himself motivating the tradesmen to a higher standard of excellence than the crappy status quo today? Answer… you’re not.
Thanks for the info! I wouldn't have even known what to look for but my roof started leaking and found many of these exposed nails.
I wished I would have read the comments on the fix. I didn't use the metal, only a big glob of roofing sealer over the nail hole. I see your fix will last longer!
Thanks again for the info!
Thank you for posting all of your videos. Even if I decide to pay someone to fix my roof, with the information you've provided, I can still keep an eye on the work to see if they are making mistakes. It's unnerving to know I have to do this with a professional.
Indeed... And that is good for you & for the contractor's reputation as well. Nobody likes being told what to do, but we are all grownups here & need to act like it. This is your house, not theirs' & they need to do things right if they're going to be serving the public. It's one thing to get into someone's way & micromanage their work. That can be counterproductive. That's why it's important for you to know the "Whys" behind the craftsmanship, so I believe it's perfectly reasonable to simply expect people to do quality work & learning how & why things ought to be done or not done is the first step to the consumer getting quality work out of their contractors - regardless of whichever trade they're in.
Contractors should be responsible enough to know his hired hands know and perform quality work it's his reputation at stake it seems to be a worker issue IMHO sometimes contractors call, but not always skilled tilesetter knows better.
@@milotorres6894 A lot of "contractors" are scammers, (psychopathic behavior) and care nothing about their victims. It's up to the consumer to investigate their contractors. Being a predator is a whole industry in itself.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I just had my roof redone after the felt underlayment failed and developed a leak. Fortunately it was under the patio and not inside the house. My contractor used the peal and stick fire and ice-type underlayment. I do have a question for you. Is it normal for nails to be partially exposed after a roof repair? I have several areas under my patio where nails are poking through and splinters knocked off in the process.
So yes… but they need not be poking through very far. They can be, but it’s aesthetically unpleasing. They have to be poking through at least a little bit, because…!
The chisel point of a nail will force its way back out of the roof deck if any portion of the point remains inside the roof deck when natural expansion & contraction occurs due to heating/cooling cycles of daily & annual weather.
Most roofers don’t know this, but will often default to using longer nails & leave them poking through an inch or more because they are typically Neanderthals who don’t appreciate aesthetics like most homeowners do.
It’s just the reality of our current construction culture & practices.
@@MrThedocholiday Thank you for your expertise and the quick response!
You’re a life saver. Wish I’d known. I’ve been ripped off twice. Thank you!
Thanks for watching.
It may not be an end of the world problem, but it surely could put a dent in your bankroll. I am retired and living the pursuit of happiness in Ecuador where virtually all roofs are tiled and leak. I have enjoyed watching your videos to better understand what is going on with the roof we live under.
Your perspective is interesting, accurate & quite the norm for most people around the world, but here in the West we're used to our roofs being water tight. Thanks for watching...
Last month and this month have been particularly wet here in Cuenca, EC. My wife and I have seen a number of collapsed rotted roofs around town. Take care and thanks for sharing such meaningful information. ed
i wonder if the owner can contact the roofers or contractor who did the work and possibly take legal actions for non workman like construction. It does seem like negligent work. You would imagine the roofers would have been mindful. It appears you are extremely knowledgable and i like that you are an advocate for quality . keep up the good work!
Thanks Bryan....
Bryan De La Cruz pretty sure as long as he had 3 inches of overlap or whatever the manufacturer requires his ass is covered. Not saying he did a good job though
Excellent inspection, thanks so much.
Thanks for the info. We recently had a cluster of micro bursts which uncovered the exposed nails that you've identified in your video. Many of my "S" tiles and "Caps" came loose because of stretching and or no nails used to secure tiles. Most of my damage was to the caps more so than the "S" tile. Alot of nails are visible just below the cement caps as well. I've gone through installing many new nails and using roof tar over the tops of the nails. My house is only 7yrs old, so we'll see how the roof holds up.
Roof tar is good, but you can also glue in small galvanized flashings to cover those nails & remain waterproof for a much longer period of time than just using roof tar. Some instances may require flashing installation over the exposed nails & other not so much. Thanks for watching.
@@MrThedocholiday Hi DD. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll probably wait until the temp drops below 90°F before going back of the roof. I will definitely do that though. Additionally, the installers didn't nail down any of the cut pieces of "S" tile. So, theres that. I've got my work cutout.
@@Painters_Tape from the sounds of it your roof will be a mess and a problem until its all addressed. Tile can last a life time and then some if done correctly. Less than 10yr you might have general contractor on hook but I doubt it somehow little fish get eaten in this capitalistic world not developers.
Send me pictures ill happily explain in detail how to fix yourself, as long as you don't hurt yourself.
@@woodpeckerroofing93 thanks for replying. I was able to find tile at the boneyard which I installed myself. I'm pretty sure I got it correct. We've had a good amount of rain and wind. So far no issues with what I did.
I was told from the outset of the build that the entire project was under warranty for 10yrs. I quickly found out that isn't the case with the roof. The roofer wanted $1500 to fix the broken tiles, I did it for under $200. Thanks for the video, it really helped!
@@Painters_Tape not my video was willing to help, figure you would have warranty issues on new build. Best of luck.
Is it showing on the tiles the correct overlap? Maybe the solution would be to address the manufacture and have it specified on the tiles. Thank you for pointing this out on TH-cam.
The manufacturers specify the minimum & maximum course layout requirements for all their tiles. Problem is, with all roofing tile installations, the courses need either stretched or compressed, depending on the size of the roof. So if the manufacturers put a line on their tiles where the overlap should go, most roofers would put it there & end up messing up the layout pattern at each ridge. That would result in partial course cut tiles at the ridge that couldn’t be fastened properly because they would have the upper support lug cut off & need a nail hole either drilled, or a slot cut in each ridge tile to fasten with nails, since the manufacturer’s nail hole was cut off due to incorrect overlap layout.
So there is no set measurement for layout… only a range of minimum & maximum that the roofer MUST follow in order to get correct amount of overlap & still have the tiles sit properly on the roof deck. Typical maximum exposure is 13.5”, but the roofer needs to make sure that the installed lap is sufficient at that general max measurement. It’s considered the roofers job to make sure the overlap is correct, regardless of the manufacturer or the person who snaps the tile course chalk lines out on the felt paper.
If a permit has to be pulled to install a roof why didn't the inspector stop the work. I have to get a new roof installed and I don't know who to trust. The roof estimates so far in South Florida is $18k to $20k for a S tile roof. Thanks for sharing.
Stace g Most roofers don’t even know what they’re doing. How’s an inspector with general roofing knowledge supposed to catch something that roofers do wrong who are supposed to have specific roofing knowledge?
Very few craftsmen are trained how to do things the right way nowadays. I used to train some of the best roofers on the west coast how to do this stuff.
Sometimes inspectors catch things if they’re careful...
Stace g Because inspectors know less about specific roofing issues than the average roofer does. Add to that the fact that these issues are often hard to see unless you have experience looking for them. I was a quality control agent, customer service rep, estimator, salesman, purchasing agent, pieceworker, journeyman & hourly pickup man for ten years before I ran my own successful 20 year roofing contractor business in So Cal. I was taught how to roof by three different business owners & one good high school friend who’s reputations were on the line. You just have to know what to look for or know someone’s go does.
Go with a Stone-Coated Steel Tile roof. Concrete Tile roofs are nothing more than a huge heavy pile of SHIT over your head! Does not matter how well there are installed!
Dan what material do you recommend to use around the penetration, and around skylights, my house is 35 years old, and the grout around all of the penetration, and skylights are starting to srink up really bad, and starting to leak into my house in a few spots, I just don’t have any faith in the quality of work that the contractors here in Albuquerque do, and of course the contractors that have been here have given me a quote of $6500 for 12 penetration, and 4 skylights! Thank you so very much for your awesome videos, even though I’m disabled, I’m going to go do this work for myself!!!
Wow! There’s definitely money to be made these days in roofing, isn’t there? Anyway, I like all the roof penetrations to be mechanically lapped so they’re water tight with flashings & roofing before any sealant is even applied, but that’s an ideal world & we have to live in the real world, don’t we. So after everything is mechanically flashed as much as possible, I like to use quad OSI for the remaining surface or sub-surface penetrations. Quad OSI can also be painted to match the various roofing colors for an added layer of uv sealant protection, so it lasts longer exposed to the weather. The only exception is the penetrations on the felt paper. For the felt I like good ole tar saturated roof cement. The reason is because the tar saturated roof cement needs protected from the uv rays unlike other topical sealants used on or near the surface.
Hi Dan enjoy your videos very detailed.
One can actually learn from them.
Thanks friend. That’s my goal. Seen too many homeowners suffer from substandard construction labor practices & would like to see that change. Like to see more homeowners learn about the how & why behind the systems in their homes also. Thanks for watching.
@@MrThedocholiday Dan what material do you recommend to use around the penetration, and around skylights, my house is 35 years old, and the grout around all of the penetration, and skylights are starting to srink up really bad, and starting to leak into my house in a few spots, I just don’t have any faith in the quality of work that the contractors here in Albuquerque do, and of course the contractors that have been here have given me a quote of $6500 for 12 penetration, and 4 skylights! Thank you so very much for your awesome videos, even though I’m disabled, I’m going to go do this work for myself!!!
Dan what material do you recommend to use around the penetration, and around skylights, my house is 35 years old, and the grout around all of the penetration, and skylights are starting to srink up really bad, and starting to leak into my house in a few spots, I just don’t have any faith in the quality of work that the contractors here in Albuquerque do, and of course the contractors that have been here have given me a quote of $6500 for 12 penetration, and 4 skylights! Thank you so very much for your awesome videos, even though I’m disabled, I’m going to go do this work for myself!!!
Reply
Is there a tape that can be used on tar paper (instead of Henry's) to cover the holes left by the removed nails?
Thanks for the great video!
If you used some type of modified tape with tar in the adhesive, that might work, but the tarpaper you’re sealing with it would need to be clean & the top side of the tape would need to somehow be prevented from sticking to the tile when the tiles are reinstalled.
Tar is probably best for at least 3 reasons… 1. Tar (Henry’s) rehydrates the felt paper you’re sealing with it so you get a good seal. 2. Tar has just the right amount of adhesion to the felt without sticking too intensely to the tile being reinstalled on top of the tar. & 3. Tar is the best product I’ve found for both cleaning the felt, incorporating the remaining dirt on the surface of the felt & sealing the nail holes with just a small dollop & a few swipes of a trowel. The first swipe applies the Henry’s. The 2nd & 3rd swipes incorporate the remaining surface dust into the tar & push the tar into the nail hole really well.
Also, I make it a point only to put the tar on the nail hole itself & not where the tile lugs rest on the felt. Occasionally you’ll need to pull tile up again to repair an area a second time in the future - if you miss something the first time or if another issue arises that requires you to remove the tiles again in that area. So the last thing we want is for whatever sealant we use on the felt to stick to both the tile & the felt, & then rip the felt apart the next time the tiles are removed.
I’ve had to re-repair a lot of other people’s repairs over the years & it’s always a bad day when there’s too much adhesion between the felt & the tiles, because the felt almost always rips apart & sometimes tiles will even break when removing the tiles a second time when there’s too much sealant or adhesion. We want to keep everything modular & serviceable as possible & seal everything up well, while keeping the future in mind. Henry’s seems to be the best product for this application & checks all the boxes of the demands put on it as well as or better than anything else available.
Just a little practice with a trowel & doing your best to clean the felt before sealing should produce the best results for both the speed of the repair as well as success in sealing the felt paper.
Hope the time I’ve taken to explain, helps. Thanks for watching. Godspeed!
Living in Sun Lakes, AZ our community is full of this exact type tile roof. Now witnessing numerous house roofs being repaired or redone. Very few of these homes would be 25 years old. No doubt the initial install was not done properly. Wondering if owners with S Tile roofs ever get an inspection and then do the re roofing in sections to spread out the cost? Fixing leaks as they occur, I've now had two on my 15 year old in last three years roof seem like a headache. Thoughts?
John Hartman usually after two different repairs I start recommending a reroof. Really depends on the situation & condition of the underlayment. Every situation is different. Tile roofs are very modular though & repairs are pretty straight forward as long as it’s not a systemic problem like stretched courses.
@@MrThedocholiday Thoughts on re roofing a section where the leak is versus just repairing a 3' x 4' section of the felt? Thanks
Hi Dan, thanks for your very informative videos. I just had a roof repair today for a corner section about 3 feet by 3 feet that caused a leak due to a cracked membrane or paper where the water was pooling per the. Contractor and I don't know if I was scammed to pay $1750. He used the word he "modified" the area by applying that sticky black paste like asphalt but did not put the tile back that he removed and when I asked to put the tile back he said he can put it back but he will remove his 1 year warranty since he can't assure by putting back the tiles it will not cause the leak again. He also mentioned that the tile is just for cosmetics and only works 70% and the rest of the protection is done by the paper and I don't need to worry about some little cracked tiles as long as the paper is intact. He even left 1 tile cracked in the middle even if I have available unused tiles. Please provide feedback.
Civilian here, but "wow!" He's already been paid so I would find someone else to get help from. Educating yourself here is a good place to start. Listen to Dan about cracked tiles and your contractor's work. I'm 76 and up on my roof to replace the underlayment myself because I don't trust contractors.
Would like to see a video showing what *is* and what *is not* hurricane damage.
bammbamm12 Good request... Unfortunately I don’t have pics or video to show of hurricane damage, but I could describe it for you. It would look like otherwise quality roofing of any type that has been installed properly & according to manufacturer’s specs, which has subsequently been ripped up or damaged after the fact by high winds (70+ mph) or other flying debris.
Lots of roofing gets damaged in harsh weather conditions but only when that damage happens, despite being quality material that is installed correctly, should that damage legitimately be considered “hurricane damaged”.
Thanks for watching.
@@MrThedocholiday - Thank you, but what I meant was, "how can you tell, after a storm, whether the damage was pre-existing, or was the result of the storm?
"
I have more questions, how can I contact you? What area do you work out of?
rooferdan@aol.com
Nice video I like the S tile videos you do cause my house has these and I've learned so much! I just recently have gone up and put bird gaurds on my solar panels, what a job that was! I respect you roofers so much I was hurting from head to toe, it take strength to walk around up there. But anyways these damn solar people do really bad work on my tiles in putting them back or fixing ones they broke but there are a lot of loose tiles and some they stacked and just left up there on my skylight! Now with the information ive learn from your videos I will be watching whoever goes on my roof thanks a million! Buy the way I live in the Tracy Central valley area if you know any good guys thanks.
L C Central Valley is at least 2700 miles from me now. Best advice I can give for finding any good contractor is 1. Do a background check several licenses first at CSLB.ca.gov 2. Check public reviews online of those who pass the license background check 3. When you contact them to schedule an estimate, negotiate to have a supervisor check the work being done on your roof daily.
You do those three things & you’ll come out miles ahead no matter what any contractor does in or around your home. License background check hyperlink says “license check“. Godspeed!
L C when it comes to the s shaped vs flat is it just style preference or which one is better?
Hi Dan, great video, I know you’re no longer in California but I thought maybe you could recommend a roofer in riverside woodcrest area if California, thank you for your help
I simply don’t have a solution for the lack of quality roofing contractors in so cal. All I can advise is to screen them carefully from the local business listings. License background checks can be done online at CSLB.ca.gov & go from there. Online review websites can give you an idea what the local community says about their services & after you decide on one or two possibilities, you should always negotiate with them to have a supervisor check work daily being done on your house before you agree to hire them. Hope that helps.
Great video! Any recommendations for a company in Miami, FL to repair/replace a roof?
My house have the same problem but in a smaller area. Since I don't have a single 'grand', I'm going to have to up climb there, fill every gap that I can see (even if I have to go one by one) with cement and then cover the entire area with water-proof paint. Because the shingles look good in their natural color, but it's just too expensive to keep making repairs inside of the house. And it's humiliating to live with water leaks.
My advice is don't do the waterproof paint. It can trap more water than it keeps out. Is your roof tile or shingles? If it's tile like this one you can seal the nails with sealant & then place a small piece of galvanized sheet metal under the tile above & covering over the exposed nail that you just put the sealant on. That way each nail will have both sealant & a small metal flashing covering them & keeping most if not all the water out of your roof. That is how I fixed this roof but it was very time consuming. It's still better than reroofing when you're broke.
Right. My roof is tiles, not shingles (sorry about the misname) and they are not hold by nails. The construction company used cement only at the border of the roof area to keep them in place. Some of my neighbors' houses have the same problem, some others don't. The problem is that the soil where I live has a lot of movement, and the tiles must have displaced a few millimeters and that is what is causing the water to leak. A further inspection revealed that there's is a small (but visible) gap between some of the tiles, particularly at the front end. It will be risky, but I think filling those gaps with waterproof mortar will reduce the problem or eliminate altogether. I wonder: How is the paint going to trap the water? from inside the house?
Dan Jeru moisture..
Dad do you have a roofing contractor? I'm in Az ?
I’m sorry I don’t. Make sure the boss keeps an eye on his roofers while doing the work for you.
What is the difference between the S shaped concrete tile vs the flat concrete tile?
Exodus Each type has different qualities though both are made from similar materials. Flat tile are a tight installation while s tile have a much higher profile & potentially allow for critters to nest in or easily enter through the gaps. The drawback for flat tiles is they don’t allow for very good water run off management around obstacles like chimneys, valleys, metal flashings & the like. Each type of tile has its own good & bad characteristics & their desirability depends solely upon which characteristics you prefer on your roof. There are also durability characteristics that vary between the two types as well. Low profile s tile is a decent compromise between the characteristics of both extreme types. Hope that answers your question.
Duster Dan Thank you ! Is there such a thing as which one is better ? beside the look it creates such as the S shapes being the Spanish mission look vs the modeled look the flat gives.
Do you fix homes in Victorville
Nope, sorry. Thanks for watching though.
How would this stretched roof look on a asphalt roof? My inspectors saying I need a new roof because my asphalt roof is stretched I had never even heard of this term until today. I see how this could be damaging in a roof like the one in this video but what about the damaging effects for an asphalt one?
Erika Rodriguez With asphalt shingles you have basically the same scenario... The nails holding shingles in place are supposed to be covered by about a half inch of the next course of shingle above. Stretched courses result in exposed nails along the nail pattern line, Exposed side seams & premature deterioration of the felt underlayment due to excessive moisture penetration. All roofing manufacturers advise on weather exposure & course measurement parameters for each of their products to keep your roof water tight & maintain their warranties.
Can you show us what it is suppose to look like if properly installed?
mbaja25 It’s simple... If you can see the nails, rainwater can get through the holes that those nails are going through to hold the tiles in place. Even if tucked under a little, if the nails are still visible then water can get to them & through onto the felt to wear the feltpaper out & cause leaks.
Nice info good catch for the owner to rectify before it gets ugly over pennies saved on the dollar ridiculous consistently hacked no matter how good it looks warranty won't hold water.
So what is the fix without replacing tiles?
Frank Kallam you can silicone a small flashing over every exposed nail & tuck it up under the tile above, but that’s only if the felt underlay is still good after all the nails weeping for years.
Are you still roofing? Very hard to find people that care in So Cal
Nope. Sorry I left so cal several years ago.
Yes yes yes your so true i see it every day it's crazy....
Is the problem insufficient overlap?
David Yes... exactly!
Hello, thank you!
Love all your work.
Am in south Florida any recommendations?
SHAMILA LENNARD Just screen your contractor carefully. Check their license status. Check public reviews for them online. Negotiate during the estimating/bidding process to have a supervisor check the work daily being done for you.
Prestige Roofing of SOFL, highly recommend!
Dan, We may have a similar problem with our tile roof (home is only 18 years old). We've spent thousands try to "fix" the roof (felt paper replaced 2x ) but it started leaking again. We live in Southern California. How can we contact you and hire you to help? We really need someone we can trust to fix these leaks. If you're not available, is there anyone else you would recommend to help us fix our roof leaks?
Chris B I’m not in So Cal anymore & retired my state contractor’s license there. The best I can do from out of state is to be your roofing consultant. I don’t refer other roofers because although I have known many, I don’t have confidence they could solve your problem like I would if I were there. And, I would hate to refer someone that I couldn’t supervise & then have them let you down.
@@MrThedocholiday Thanks for the fast response. Darn, I wish you were still working. Your expertise, honesty, wisdom, and excellence are much needed!
Decided to work with an experienced electrician (and all-around handyman) friend of mine and diagnose and fix the issues ourselves. Don't trust that yet another contractor will do a good job. After trying 4 different roofers in the last 10 years (last one was an "expert" recommended by our insurance company) and listening to your advice and experience, I realize I will have to do this myself to do it right and have it not leak again in a 1-2 years. Been watching your videos and several others, and learned a lot. Thank you so much for the information and advice you provided. It was a great reality check. It confirmed what I suspected about the many roofers and contractors out there.
FYI, regarding the exposed nails with insufficient coverage (which may be one issue), I was thinking of sealing them in to stop the leaks. Researched and saw that I could use RT600 Adhesive or BASF MasterSeal NP1 Urethane Sealant or TAM-Pro Q-20 Premium SBS Flashing Cement. Is any of these best or is there another sealer/adhesive you would recommend?
Hey Dan, thanks for the info, I just had my roof done in Miami and I too find a lot of errors made. I confronted the roofer who said that it's properly done. I am awaiting an inspection of his work from a roof inspector and can't wait to hear his/her verdict on the job is. I need to know, how can I get a non-biased roofer to come to see the work and give me an opinion on whether it was properly installed? I have contacted some roofers and explained why I need a second opinion, they shy away because it was done by another roofer and they don't want to interfere with that. Please help.
Danielle Lys You can get free installation instruction details from roofing distributors & manufactures. Compare those details with how the contractor installed your roof. Make sure the “errors” you’re referring to are not simple roofer installation preferences that fall within what your local code allows for. Everyone does things differently. The questions are... 1. Does the installation meet code & 2. Does the installation comply with the manufacturer’s warranty specifications? If the installation fails either of those tests, you have a grounds to file a complaint with your local contracting regulatory authority & leverage for motivating your roofing contractor to make all necessary changes to comply with both the local regulating agency & the shingle manufacturer.
I ought to do roofing consulting...
Also find out what product was used, take pictures of concerns email the manufacturer. If anything you take away from this video is there is tons and tons of people doing sloppy work that looks ok but its not always ok. Situation reminds me of a comedy guy jokes about his Dad saying " somebody going to get a hurt real bad" financially anyway is how it is for unlucky homeowners too often from poor craftsmanship.
Also check attic for little leaks if something looks off on roof but not leaking water. Could be hidden damage growing.
How do you step on this kind of tile without braking them.?
MarsInBako really simple ,step over the laps of every row, never on the middle because you gonna break a lot, laps on tiles are very strong.
would you be willing to come down to carlsbad oceanside area? dont trust many people around here and im a concrete guy
I’m 2600 miles from Oceanside these days.
@@MrThedocholiday smart man got the hell out of california? where'd ya go?
Dan, I just had my roof underlayment replaced and roofer stretched south side tiles to remove a row of tiles. This made the top crown tile to barely cover the top row of large tile. I called him out on it and he said it is fine. This all happened a month ago. Since then I have installed solar. Now i want them to put the roof back the way it was. Need advise, How do you think I should proceed. Lawyer, small claims court? Got a quote to fix it for 13.5k. Already spent 24k for job. Needing help! Southwest Riverside County location
Call the contractors state license board first. Here’s their website link to get you started. cslb.ca.gov/
They live for going after bad contractors.
Good morning and thanks for your fast reply!! I will give them a call. Much appreciated advise!!!
Hello again Dan, is there anyway I could send you some pictures of my roof job to get your opinion on whether I should contact state board or just live with it? I could send through my gmail account. I can’t attach any photos to this reply. If not that is ok.. Thanks.. Brian
Duster Dan, any recommendations for Las Vegas??
Edward Ruggeroli Sorry, no... But same advice...
1. Compile short list of possible contractors in your area from whatever source you prefer. Do a background check on the license at state regulating agency to check status of their license.
2. Check public reviews of contractors in good standing with license board online at Yelp & Angie’s List to see what public says about their services.
3. Negotiate with contractors who pass first two steps to see if they’re interested or n doing the work with the understanding that they will have a supervisor check the work done on your roof daily to assure their laborers are doing quality work.
Godspeed!
The roofers (or contractor) wanted to pocket the money for the materials they didn't use by stretching the courses.
Well Dan, I don't fault you for being frustrated with systemic incompetence present within the roofing industry, there are simply too many untrained, unethical people in construction.
And that’s why it’s important to inform customers & teach them how to screen those dirtbags. Accountability can help those shady contractors see there’s equity & profit in doing things better. Thanks for the encouragement & for watching!
@@MrThedocholiday That's why we are thankful to you for your time and effort.
How much overlap should there be between courses?
The question of tile overlap is really irrelevant. What is important is how much the tiles above overlap the nailholes in the tiles below each course. You should overlap the nailholes in the course below by at least half an inch. More is better...
hi dan, so regardless of roof pitch, the rule of thumb is half an inch overlap past the nail hole?
Total over lap should be 4 inches minimum
Dan are you still in Riverside, Ca? I need your help.
Rick Gibson Nope... I’m 2600 miles from there & not coming back. But, I’ll be happy to help however I can.
Very unusual profile, never seen it in Australia. What is it, and who makes it?
Abu7929 what is what? And who makes what? If you could be more specific I’ll try to address your question. Thanks in advance.
@@MrThedocholiday The tile. Who makes it, and what model?
Only ~20k? Does the cost of these types of roofs vary by region?
I'm looking at a property, and they are talking about charging ~$1,000 a square for roof replacement. As I'm typing I think I realize that is probably for full felt replacement, and not just removing the tile.
Either way, your couple videos on tile roofs gave me a lot of insight. Thanks!
Every roof is different... Also, every contractor is going to apply a different quality of labor. All roofs are NOT created equal & neither are degrees of labor quality. If you're gonna spend thousands of dollars you have to do your research. I always spend tons of time educating my customers as to the how & why whenever I interact with them. There is no other smart way around construction projects unfortunately; especially when dealing with human nature.
@@MrThedocholiday who would you recommend in Az?
Hello Duster! I saw your TH-cam videos, and i really need your help. How can I contact you? Are you still fixing roof, are you available for great Riverside area? Please. I really appreciate if you would help me. Marisa.
How did you repair??? By the way, great videos!! we don't have many of the tiled roof roofs in Pittsburgh PA but it was cool seeing your repairs. Hope I can use some of your tips in the future?
Olive567 Bird I used sheet metal & sealant to flash every single one of these exposed nails. I caught this problem early, before the felt paper underlayment deteriorated, so on this house, it was just a matter of preventing the weather from getting through the tile. Many other houses don't fair so well, because by the time the homeowner finds out about this problem, it's too late, the felt is worn out & it's time to reroof.
@@MrThedocholidayif you reroof with a double 30 underlayment (but with this overlap issue), how long do you think the roof will last?
Eagle Capistrano has a 50 year lifespan you can re-use the tile.
Garrett Littleton Eagle is & always was my go-to tile, because Eagle is the best performing tile out of all of them in my 30 year experience based opinion. In any case, I’ve reroofed enough houses to know that it’s just as cost effective to buy all new tile.
2024 lol
The difficult part was ALREADY DONE, thanks; that was, to FIND the problem;
I would just buy 100 cartridges of mastik,PU, silicone, ... and go one by one with it, no question at all...
That still won’t solve the underlayment issues from years of stretched courses. We can apply all the silicone on the planet & still not fix the bad felt underneath. Point is… stretched courses always result in having to tearoff an otherwise perfect roof, just to replace the felt.
good vid. thank you
Thank you...
There supposed to nail every tile down right not just glue
SUSAN EPPENAUER No... local code calls for each tile nailed or glued to other tiles that are nailed.
Are you still in California?
You would need more rows of material at the top ...because they have stretched out the courses;... too far
so you’re going to need to put those courses in ... loosing roughly an inch or two closer ;...to the ground ...therefore :
you’re gonna need like 3 to 4 extra courses of new material....
Spray self sealing waterproof calking color matched. Or self sealing polyurethane color matched. So just spray a dab on each
MiKyahl You’d have to make sure it is thick enough & doesn’t trap water by letting water get behind & then not allowing the water to flow out. Water does funny things in a downpour. The key to a watertight roof is managing the water flow, not merely keeping the water off the roof. I like the flashing method here more than any kind of topical sealant application for many reasons, not the least of which is because it’s most similar in function to having the tiles installed correctly in the first place.
excellent video.. I have a s tile roof.. looking for a roofer in Ontario pm sir just started for a estimate..
Just a little tile glue patch and done.......
A little glue everywhere… Why not?
How Are you supposed to install nails to these tiles properly?and also what's the best underlayment in your opinion for these roofs?
Each tile has a manufacturer’s nail hole. Depending on tile thickness, each tile typically requires at least one 8d or one 10d nail to fasten it to the roof deck. Each subsequent tile installed should cover the nail & nail hole of the previously installed tile below by at least 1/2” in order to maintain a virtually watertight barrier. Many various tiles may appear to be covered sufficiently when they are not, due to the viewing angle of the installers & the lower edge shape of the covering tile itself. It’s the roofer’s job to establish a sufficient overlap of each subsequent tile & tile course to maintain a virtual watertight seal throughout the entire roof at all times. Unfortunately, very few roofers take this responsibility seriously.
Installing & removing nails in already installed tiles in the middle of the field in ways that maintain proper overlap is a nuanced skill & requires specific tools to do efficiently, but is possible when attention to detail is maintained. This is often necessary when doing repairs or replacing broken tiles during the initial installation.
Code calls for 30lb ASTM rated felt paper underlayment where I worked for 30 years in So Cal & this standard has proven sufficient to last at least 50 years or more depending on the quality of the tile installation itself. Upgrades to underlayment can be made, but upgraded underlayment is no substitute for proper tile installation & must be an expensive premium material if it is expected to maintain a watertight barrier beneath improperly installed tile. Underlayment is not intended by the factory to be the primary watertight barrier… the tile is. The underlayment is designed to keep the minute amount of water that passes through the tile from entering the residence. And as long as the tile protects that underlayment like it’s supposed to, standard underlayment will maintain a watertight barrier for the length of time the manufacturers guarantee the tile roofing products.
I get a lot of arguments on this ‘underlayment’ point from non-experienced roofers, but they have not seen thousands of roofs personally, done thousands of roofing inspections on good & bad installations & completed thousands of roofing repairs & installations like I have done over the last 35 years. So I really don’t expect them to understand my perspective. But having them lack proper experience to know better doesn’t change the facts.
My roof tile even blow away when a heavy wind happened, the worker didn't nail it! The contractor ask me $450 to replace two pieces of tiles and I have prepare the tiles.
The $450 was probably a minimum fee policy. Most companies won’t even do repairs because they’re not worth their time. And then there’s the liability factor of customers wanting repairmen to come back & fix it again for free if something goes wrong on the first repair. There are solutions but roofing repairs aren’t easy or cheap. That’s why it’s important to do things right the first time.
We’ve had cheap laborers who didn’t know what they’re doing, or didn’t care about customers, infiltrating the work force & undercutting roofing wages for decades. And now customers are hard pressed to find a good roofer worth their salt.
Roofers & customers need to work together to bring back equity to the roofing industry & until one side or the other is willing to invest & knows how to hold people accountable, it’s only gonna get worse.
My ranting is done...
Thanks for watching.
All about getting a whole piece at each ridge but usually first line for s tile is 15 & 1/2 inches and the rest 13 inches till the ridge.
roberto viverros Yes, you don’t want to cut the first course or the last course. You want all courses to be whole courses. So you achieve that by using a marked tape to swing at an angle from top of first course to ridge & mark all your courses by each pre-determined mark on your tape - making sure none of the courses are greater than the maximum weather exposure recommend by the tile manufacturer. Each manufacturer has their own recommendations & the roofers need to know how to swing a tape while they mark & chalk out the courses, after felt paper is installed. This is basic roofing practice & anyone not knowing how to mark courses properly on a roof should NEVER be on the roof without a supervisor overseeing their work. This is why substandard roofing labor costs the local communities millions of dollars every year. Cheap laborers without proper training & skills cost homeowners billions every year across the nation! The roof in this video is just another example why unskilled laborers should NEVER be hired for such a job, but y’all know they’ll get hired anyway, because that’s the way affirmative action policies work.
roberto viverros yes 15 and 1/2 first row but next rows are 14" the Most, but if you can't reach a whole piece on the very top roof you should divide your roof to minimize at least 13 or 13 1/2
there shouldnt be a nail there at all in the first place IMO. in florida they foam the tiles in place, no nails. im dealing with a botched roof job currently as well. impossibly to find a good contractor it seems.
Good video
slip in thin gauge metal sheet terracotta colored
Did it already... There were hundreds though. Thanks for watching.
What a waste of good material, we can't really use tile in the North East, wish we had roofs that could last 50-100 years
Andrew Rossello The only way to hit that mark would be with quality installations & the definition of quality would be defined by how long it last, not how good anyone claims it is or who installs it.
I can save you a ton a money on materials 😂😂😂😂
The fixer has stretched the hell out of them so they didn’t have to cut short coarses at the top row .....would not happen in Australia .
steven mckrill more likely he was trying to save a row of tiles
You want to complain. Visit ASia and see them laywered on 1" angle brackets; no screws; the rains flow up and leak all over. coconuts hitting them and you replace all; start top to bottom with the dumb ass idea of overlapping.
ed.G. Hansen My only gripe really is that the customers have to pay for shoddy workmanship at the end of the day & there's no way to sustain an economy where people don't take pride in quality work. So my complaint is more of an economic/cultural complaint than anything. I'm hoping to encourage people to get back to a mindset where our economy can thrive based on quality rather than slackers just trying to make a quick buck at the customer's expense.
I noticed you left two comments now regarding my complaint about this issue... So are you saying that because it's worse elsewhere that it's unreasonable for me to bring this to the attention of others? Roofers have the technical knowledge made available by the manufacturers regarding course spacing on these tiles & yet they ignore those specs & waste millions of dollars of the customer's hard earned money every year & I'm not supposed to complain about that because it's worse elsewhere? I'm trying to understand your point. Please clarify... Thanks in advance.
Dan. my point was its far worse in Asia. NO stanstands, no quality and no one cares. Your problems in TH-cam I wish I had
I can't walk on tiles as there is 1" angle iron holding them in place overlapped. not even tied up with wire. if something hits them; they all off. and onto the person below . You will never see boards support or anything to access tiles where I"m at.
SAD but true.
Well it sounds like you care. Is there anything you can do to improve the situation in Asia?
Overcoming the difficult task of bringing about positive change begins with the courage to take on what we perceive to be the impossible, in the hope that God will use our five loaves & two fish for His glory & for the good of people. I've been at this now for 30 years & absolutely love bringing equity to the table whenever I can. Not everyone appreciates it but some do & that's where our hope is realized & becomes a tangible asset.
your complaining ? At least you have nails and not just resting on the lip on a 1" L beam that is ready to fall off. Thats the Asian way to do it the cheapest; worst way
ed.G. Hansen also the American way.....
California doesn’t walkways require nails. ESP in low slow roofs usually only ridge starters hips ect need nails
Or the contract was looking for cheap labor
That falls in both categories in my book... a little not knowing how to install ‘S’ tile & a little not caring how to install it, or some combo of the two. 🤨
teda střechy neumíte... hnus velebnosti....
Just add cement and stop complaining 😏😏
Frank Chambo Stop complaining? Add cement? I live for pointing out this kind of crappy labor to customers & even to the whole world! Maybe next time the customer won’t get the short end of the stick. This is what we get from cheap unskilled labor that isn’t supervised. Thanks for watching!
@@MrThedocholiday thanks for your video, I have learnt something about nailing roofs, I work in construction too.
Edit :I have to admit that from the time I started working on roofs I make this mistake.
"Just" … yeah right.
whats your cell number Duster?
Well, first off, I don’t publish my cell number. But I will respond here for starters.
@@MrThedocholiday I was trying to get a quote for my roofing here in Chula Vista CA!
Are you still in California?
No, sorry