I truly appreciate all your videos and related materials! Seriously considering seeking out your company's training seminars. Please keep up the great work! 🎉 I am a property owner and roofer in Arizona, and cannot tell you how much "learning by osmosis" myself and buddies have had to go through with ill-tempered types who can barely articulate between being drunk, stoned or just burned out with the job - only to find out the company you're slaving for is filled with clueless sales managers who can't train anyone themselves and don't have your back worth a damn. Thank you for all the effort!
At this moment I'm replacing the roof over my bedroom on my 2k sq ft ranch style house, myself, because during the last rainy season I had several areas where it leaked. The roof is about 25 years old and the 30 lb underlayment is just rotten. I'm replacing it with waterproof underlayment. I am making my own elevated battens because I can't find a vendor who sells them. The people at ABC here in Fresno seem to no longer have a vendor for them. I spent a couple of days cutting redwood 2x4s, and what I came up with looks good. I do appreciate the information about the battens, and placement. I did learn something and I do appreciate the time spent making the video. My question is does using elevated battens cause any more damage to tiles when people walk on them?
Thank you. I am glad that it was helpful. For me, Algebra was difficult and Geometry felt like simple common sense. Since our work is so physically challenging, I am interested in anything that makes it easier and more efficient! If you don't currently have access to the paper tape, send me a note at JJensen@TileRoofing.org and I will get you a couple of rolls to sample.
I refer to them at "pucks", because they look like a miniature hockey puck. That is pretty common, but it is probably not the correct technical term. I will ask! And post the right answer when I get it.
In the UK where we basically only use tile or slate on pitched roofs, we dont have any sheathing underneath felt, so the felt drapes (intentionally) between rafters. That half inch sag between each rafter channels any potential water should a tile break or become loose. Inexperienced roofers may pull new breathable membrane felts quite tight (often seen on newbuild homes, as the type of fresh out of college apprentices that large companies employ to do loads of their work dirt cheap probably think it looks good, but if there is a problem with the tiles it sometimes finds nail holes and seeps in over time making the rafter damp.
Daniel, yes, we used to do that in the States, and called it "Sarking". It's a great system in many ways, especially on roof designs that are not complicated. My experience was the same as yours when it came to installers making the material too taught, and pulling at the fasteners, eventually failing there. The other problem, significant in residential work, was that we often have overhangs/eaves with open soffits. So the builders would have the carpenters install solid decking/Sheathing at the eave extension for the aesthetics looking up. So the draped material was then 1/2" below the plane, and had to make a modest rise at the bearing wall. It could be done as long as there was reasonable slope (5/12 or 6/12 +) but as I see those installations now, 20 years later, the valleys and details are often problem spots. I think Sarking can be done and be effective, but I agree with you, it must be done properly! (John)
I do like this raised batten system, though i wonder if it might be simpler and quicker with similar effect to run vertical inch or half inch x 2 inch stripwood up every rafter and then you can just fire away when battening
I think there are advantages to both. From an industry standpoint we call any detail that lifts the horizontal battens up off the deck "Raised Battens". The term covers a "Counter Batten" system as you describe, the Elevated Battens (a Boral product) seen in the video, and other styles such as Arched Battens (an Eagle Roofing product), plastic Flow Through etc. In my area (Pacific Northwest- Washington, Oregon, Northern Cal) we are required to use a Raised Batten system to help condensation drain, and warm, humid air rise with convection to venting at the ridge line. I do agree there is a fastening advantage installing on top of the rafters/trusses. The Elevated Battens (commonly called EBS) allows a speedy install that can also extend in valleys and sidewalls with the round plastic puck resting in the flashing, keeping the batten raised up out of water flow, but providing the installer a point to hook the tile lug and still fasten to the batten.
40 yrs ago we used swing tape system but with very little practice you swing to 1ft 2,,2ft 4,,,,3ft 6 and so on you start over very 7 ft,,,easy 7 ft 0 8ft 2..10ft 4 12ft 6..if bottom 20 ft 1in swing it to 21 ft ..btw we worked in nw,,,and looked like we had been hunting with all that slurry mix chalk on us,,,,good times great vidio ..p.s. use a lumber crayon and big v's you can see from 20 ft.away
That's interesting. I have never heard of that. I learned using a marked regular tape measure but once I started using the paper Layout Tape I never went back. Where did you roof Kyle? I started roofing and started my company in Seattle in 1988. Always used crayons. Doing training in different environments I learned why they don't! Places like Phoenix, El Paso, they use chalk, or even chunks of broken sheetrock. Check this out! facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=4035751013114734&id=119834124706462
The battens in the video are the Boral Elevated Batten System (EBS). Here is a link to information on the battens. www.boralroof.com/components/batten-products/elevated-batten-system/
So you went through all the trouble of tearing off the existing tile roof system and you go back with a single ply dry in ? I don't get it? 2ply application is the way to go. I M O
2 Ply #30 is historically very common in the Pacific NW, and holds up well. 1 ply of 30 also has a history of holding up well when counter battens were installed. The climate is cool and humid, so allowing the air to move and keeping the horizontal battens up off of the deck was very helpful. In 2015, standards changed( for installations West of the Cascades and North of Crescent City, CA) to require that Raised Batten systems be used allowing for air and moisture movement under the tile. This roof has a Boral Elevated Batten System over a 40 lb SBS modified asphalt fiberglass reinforced Base Sheet set with horizontal laps set at 4". It is arguable that the SBS 40 lb is a stronger system than even the 2 ply 30, but there are advantages to each. 2 Plies allow for easier integration of penetration flashings, vents and box penetrations. That said there are zero penetrations on this mansard roof. The previous roof was installed with 1 ply of 30 lb on battens set direct to the deck It was 35 years old and not leaking. The upgrades to raised battens, 40 lb SBS, 4" horizontal lap and color through tile will make this a "Life of the structure" system. (John)
I truly appreciate all your videos and related materials! Seriously considering seeking out your company's training seminars. Please keep up the great work! 🎉
I am a property owner and roofer in Arizona, and cannot tell you how much "learning by osmosis" myself and buddies have had to go through with ill-tempered types who can barely articulate between being drunk, stoned or just burned out with the job - only to find out the company you're slaving for is filled with clueless sales managers who can't train anyone themselves and don't have your back worth a damn.
Thank you for all the effort!
At this moment I'm replacing the roof over my bedroom on my 2k sq ft ranch style house, myself, because during the last rainy season I had several areas where it leaked. The roof is about 25 years old and the 30 lb underlayment is just rotten. I'm replacing it with waterproof underlayment. I am making my own elevated battens because I can't find a vendor who sells them. The people at ABC here in Fresno seem to no longer have a vendor for them. I spent a couple of days cutting redwood 2x4s, and what I came up with looks good. I do appreciate the information about the battens, and placement. I did learn something and I do appreciate the time spent making the video. My question is does using elevated battens cause any more damage to tiles when people walk on them?
Many thanks from Australia !
This is very helpful and has demystified a problem I've struggled with many times .
Thank you. I am glad that it was helpful. For me, Algebra was difficult and Geometry felt like simple common sense. Since our work is so physically challenging, I am interested in anything that makes it easier and more efficient! If you don't currently have access to the paper tape, send me a note at JJensen@TileRoofing.org and I will get you a couple of rolls to sample.
What are the little black, round "risers" called under the battens? Thanks for the vid!
I refer to them at "pucks", because they look like a miniature hockey puck. That is pretty common, but it is probably not the correct technical term. I will ask! And post the right answer when I get it.
In the UK where we basically only use tile or slate on pitched roofs, we dont have any sheathing underneath felt, so the felt drapes (intentionally) between rafters. That half inch sag between each rafter channels any potential water should a tile break or become loose.
Inexperienced roofers may pull new breathable membrane felts quite tight (often seen on newbuild homes, as the type of fresh out of college apprentices that large companies employ to do loads of their work dirt cheap probably think it looks good, but if there is a problem with the tiles it sometimes finds nail holes and seeps in over time making the rafter damp.
Daniel, yes, we used to do that in the States, and called it "Sarking". It's a great system in many ways, especially on roof designs that are not complicated. My experience was the same as yours when it came to installers making the material too taught, and pulling at the fasteners, eventually failing there. The other problem, significant in residential work, was that we often have overhangs/eaves with open soffits. So the builders would have the carpenters install solid decking/Sheathing at the eave extension for the aesthetics looking up. So the draped material was then 1/2" below the plane, and had to make a modest rise at the bearing wall. It could be done as long as there was reasonable slope (5/12 or 6/12 +) but as I see those installations now, 20 years later, the valleys and details are often problem spots. I think Sarking can be done and be effective, but I agree with you, it must be done properly! (John)
I do like this raised batten system, though i wonder if it might be simpler and quicker with similar effect to run vertical inch or half inch x 2 inch stripwood up every rafter and then you can just fire away when battening
I think there are advantages to both. From an industry standpoint we call any detail that lifts the horizontal battens up off the deck "Raised Battens". The term covers a "Counter Batten" system as you describe, the Elevated Battens (a Boral product) seen in the video, and other styles such as Arched Battens (an Eagle Roofing product), plastic Flow Through etc. In my area (Pacific Northwest- Washington, Oregon, Northern Cal) we are required to use a Raised Batten system to help condensation drain, and warm, humid air rise with convection to venting at the ridge line. I do agree there is a fastening advantage installing on top of the rafters/trusses. The Elevated Battens (commonly called EBS) allows a speedy install that can also extend in valleys and sidewalls with the round plastic puck resting in the flashing, keeping the batten raised up out of water flow, but providing the installer a point to hook the tile lug and still fasten to the batten.
How is the spot you stopped at water tight? Looks backwards from u.s. please explain?
Well done!
Looking for a Ludowici Spanish tile install video.
40 yrs ago we used swing tape system but with very little practice you swing to 1ft 2,,2ft 4,,,,3ft 6 and so on you start over very 7 ft,,,easy 7 ft 0 8ft 2..10ft 4 12ft 6..if bottom 20 ft 1in swing it to 21 ft ..btw we worked in nw,,,and looked like we had been hunting with all that slurry mix chalk on us,,,,good times great vidio ..p.s. use a lumber crayon and big v's you can see from 20 ft.away
That's interesting. I have never heard of that. I learned using a marked regular tape measure but once I started using the paper Layout Tape I never went back. Where did you roof Kyle? I started roofing and started my company in Seattle in 1988. Always used crayons. Doing training in different environments I learned why they don't! Places like Phoenix, El Paso, they use chalk, or even chunks of broken sheetrock. Check this out! facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=4035751013114734&id=119834124706462
Very nice
Hi there what size battens are you fixing?
The battens in the video are the Boral Elevated Batten System (EBS). Here is a link to information on the battens. www.boralroof.com/components/batten-products/elevated-batten-system/
Thanks guys 👍 regards from Australia.
25/50mm
Good video
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for stopping by.
Great information, well presented. Thank you.
So you went through all the trouble of tearing off the existing tile roof system and you go back with a single ply dry in ? I don't get it? 2ply application is the way to go. I M O
2 Ply #30 is historically very common in the Pacific NW, and holds up well. 1 ply of 30 also has a history of holding up well when counter battens were installed. The climate is cool and humid, so allowing the air to move and keeping the horizontal battens up off of the deck was very helpful. In 2015, standards changed( for installations West of the Cascades and North of Crescent City, CA) to require that Raised Batten systems be used allowing for air and moisture movement under the tile. This roof has a Boral Elevated Batten System over a 40 lb SBS modified asphalt fiberglass reinforced Base Sheet set with horizontal laps set at 4". It is arguable that the SBS 40 lb is a stronger system than even the 2 ply 30, but there are advantages to each. 2 Plies allow for easier integration of penetration flashings, vents and box penetrations. That said there are zero penetrations on this mansard roof. The previous roof was installed with 1 ply of 30 lb on battens set direct to the deck It was 35 years old and not leaking. The upgrades to raised battens, 40 lb SBS, 4" horizontal lap and color through tile will make this a "Life of the structure" system. (John)
You never do that on site mate
No time for this
Special when u have 10 roofs ready