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Those are called rack and pinion axles. There is a pinion gear in the wheel hub to assist in changing the the wheel position on the axle for various row crop conditions.
You’re pop is an awesome teacher. He is very specific about what he is doing and always explains why. I had a vocational teacher just like him and I absorbed everything that he said. Guys like your pop are few and far between and the knowledge of running a manual machine is a lost art that most newer machinists don’t know due to computers and the “throw it away and buy new” mentality that exists today. Thank you for taking the time to show and share your shop and knowledge, you are helping and teaching more people than you can imagine. Eddie wheels from NJ 😬🧑🏻🦽👍
It’s actually a rack and pinion to facilitate moving the wheel and hub in or out. There are wedges that lock the hub to the axle. Worked for a Deere dealership for 34 years. I seen many a John Deere axle in those years. Also I believe the axles are forged.
Axle housing has a grease zerk to keep the outer bearing greased. This is what happens when you don't grease them. Granted there is hydraulic oil there but it has to pass thru the inner bearing to reach the outer bearing. If you run it low on hydraulic oil it doesn't lube the outer bearing. I make sure to grease it every 250 hours and don't run it low on hydraulic oil. There is a gear with a bolt head that runs thru the hub runs in those splines. It allows you to crank the wheel in and out easily.
Strange thing is I've bought new tractors that had just a plug there. I put new zerks in it to grease it. I don't know if every 200 hours is enough but only put a few pumps in them. I don't want to push grease past the seals. Since I service them three times a year I figure it's enough. I bought that 4455 mech front drive 15 years ago used so I figure I'm at Least in the ball park with those. I have a 4250 that even older and same thing. I have less problems with them than my 7930 or my 8235R.
@@haveraygunwilltravel That's the problem. Guys were doing more damage by pumping way to much grease, or not making sure they were pumping clean grease. So JD said the hell with it and started blocking them off.
@@Failure_Is_An_Option not sure if JD is telling truth .. Have a bad reputation with ECM and tech plus no parts before 1992 for my 690 E excavator . Nebraska is suing Deere for violating Federal right to repair laws.. I went to CAT dealership and got parts for a newer excavator says "made in China" on box... Almost threw it through CAT window.
Far smaller scale, but a friend’s zero-turn mower had an axle shaft bearing spinning loose for years and it cut a huge groove into the axle. There were no replacement axles on planet Earth so my local friendly machine shop welded it up and turned it back to specs. I used some red Loctite on it for re-assembly. Should last another 25 years. Great success!
Among the most informative and natural skill channels there is. Full respect to all engineers who can work to 1/10 of a banana tolerances. Businesses like yours are far more important in the coming times than any big fat corporations.
I just want to say how glad I am y’all are keeping these old machines going. My 66 Chevy every needs work like this, I hope to find a shop that cares this much.
JD has a wedge system on the axle. Loosen three bolts then there are two smaller bolts than you drive in to "break" the wedge loose. Then, using the bolt that kind of sticks out at an angle you can move the wheel. It's like a rack and pinion. When you have the wheel where you want it just reverse the process. It seemed like we were always moving wheels! Potatoes were on 36" rows, corn and beets were 30" and we moved the wheels out as far as we could when we plowed.
I really enjoyed watching this video. After having spent eight hours in front of the computer, it’s really great to see people actually making stuff. Good for you and your dad.
Very nice repair. We approach this type of repair a little differently. We use a diagonal gnurling tool on the lathe. This is fast and we use stock size OEM components. The gnurling wheel can be used for both OD & ID. It saves parts, time & money. We do this on pistons sometimes too as oil stays in the light grooves. Keep up the good work!
About what you said at 10:55 about subscribers: One interesting perspective I heard was that subscribers don't matter that much. Your videos clearly have a wide reach (especially your shorts!), and with the algorithm becoming more and more important in driving viewership, what matters more is the mix of impressions, CTR and viewership retention. But yes, I am subscribed, and it is nice to have an easy number tell you how good you're doing.
We had a similar issue with our 4630. Outer bearing surface was worn down. Our local machine shop turned down the surface of the the outer bearing on the axle. Then machined a sleeve with the correct OD for the bearing, and the correct ID for the axle. Split the sleeve, slip it in the axle, welded back together, polished, and returned to original size. 10 years and 2,000 hours later, it's still good.
Speaking of bent tractor axles, I've had 4 different tractors of my own and never once have I not had one with bent axles, closest I came was a low hour tractor I had about 10 years ago and it only slightly wobbled going down the road. My first one was a Belarus 250AS that felt more akin to riding on a bucking bronco than a tractor on the road.
@@andoletube Well my second Belarus 250AS with about 500 less hours didn't have that problem, beside, those things are darned well impossible to kill. For Pete's sake, their fuses are simply different gauges of wire ran between 2 metal clips on a hard plastic board with a bunch of extra wire wrapped around it. While they don't have bells or whistles, they do have portal hubs and down pressure hydraulics. I have buried them in mud, simply picked up the implement, threw a log under it, then used the down pressure on the hydraulics to lift the entire tractor up, tossed some rocks and logs under the back tires and off I went. Not to mention the down pressure hydraulics makes running a post hole digger incredibly easy, just be careful or you'll screw it into the ground, literally
Sometimes the bucking is caused from flat spots in the tires from sitting. The farms Versatile 875 is terrible for the first 5 miles, can only do about 10 to 12 mph. Eventually you can get up to full speed. Hello from north east Montana. 10 miles from the Canadian border.
@@andoletube Refinement or comfort were definitely not in their design parameters, I do believe if they could have found a simple mechanical way to raise and lower the implements they would have, heck if they could have gotten away with making the operators do it by hand they would have.
Many years ago I visited an electric motor repair shop (upwards of 300 HP, water cooled) that sprayed powdered hot metal onto worn armature shafts. Spray gun had a large flame coming out of it. I’m guessing they preheated the armature shaft. Shaft was later machined back to desired diameter.
Great job guys. If your interested in watching some precission engineering where welding and building OD and ID surfaces up before refacing them again, there's a young Australian guy named Kurtis who has a TH-cam channel called Cutting Edge Engineering!. As an automotive enthusiast, I really love the content both channels share.
I see Kurtis (Cutting Edge Engineering, Gold Coast Aus.) use his tape measure all the time and he quite often works to interference fit (half a thou less) in his heavy machinery work. It's what you do when time and money are on the line.
Back in 2007 and 2008 I worked at two different machine shops running an engine lathe. The first one I worked at, we got farm equipment shafts in to repair journals where the bearing wore into the shaft. They had me knurl the shaft there and then file and polish it back down to size. Knurling increases the diameter. The second shop, I would turn .100" off the diameter, a welder guy would weld it back up, and I would turn it back down to size. Welding always bent the shafts a bit though from the heat.
@18:05. To move a tractor tire spacing, you set those teeth on the axle straight up. There is a gear on the inside of a John Deere wheel that has a bolt coming off of it outside of the wheel. If you set the axle straight up then you can use that gear in those teeth to move the wheel in or out.
Love how your father explained the process in fixing this axel. Your father is very knowledgeable person on all the machine work and other things he works on. No computer could ever replace him or his knowledge. Love your video’s you guy’s and thanks for sharing.☺️☺️☺️☺️☺️👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
You guys make very informative & weirdly relaxing videos. You should make a video talking about how a person can get into your line of work…….trade school, college, start as a grunt in a shop…..etc. Thanks & keep up the good work.
Not many trade schools operating anymore and very few shops willing to hire apprentices from scratch without advanced training. Mistakes in this type of work can be very costly.
I use a flame spray torch and build-up metal powder to repair spun bearing shaft damage or wear. Most powders are nickel based and require no where near welding temperatures. I think the best is Castolin's Terodyn System 2000, but it's an expensive setup. I use a Victor's VPT-100 torch and Victor #22 Powder. Stoody makes an equivalent built-up powder. Both are easy to machine. Both the Terodyn System 2000 and the VPT-100 torch are great for applying carbide and Stellite hardfacing coatings as well.
A dairy farmer in New York, goes by the name of Farming Fixing & Fabricating on TH-cam, had an axle break on an 8120 due to heat applied to remove the outer bearing. He talks about the failure in a video titled "Tires cost per mile | Axle Explained and shop work". The axle part starts at 5:30, I don't know on the older tractors like this 4230 would have the same heat treating or not, but John Deere seems to say to not heat near the outer bearing so as to not mess with the heat treatment done to the axle. Just giving a heads up on what I've heard from another source. Again, don't know if it applies to this vintage of a Deere. The "rack" on the axle opposite the keyway is for a gear that is in one of the wedge halves to engage on to move the wheel in or out when the wedges are loose. Otherwise it is the same arrangement, 2 tapered wedges, one with key machined in it and other with the gear to move it, that tighten to lock wheel to axle. It's crazy to see such loose tolerances allowed on that axle runout for that undersize bearing, especially with how closely you two always are able to work to 0.
This way it can be spray welded and turned back to original size if undersize bearing is not an option. Spray welding is not as hot as traditional welding eliminating warping or hardening of part. An example is on Abom79 you tube channel SNS 300: Spray Welding a Blower Shaft.
@lubyjr65 Hey thanks, lm going to check that out simply because l don't think l've ever come across that process before and it sounds interesting. I'm not an engineer, fitter, welder however A channel called Cutting Edge Engineering may interest you. The guy is Australian and deals with big machinery parts repairs and re fits. Super interesting guy to watch applying his trade. Have a nice day.
@@lubyjr65 Are the spray welds amenable to grinding to final size?. Abom 79 always cuts on the lathe to final size, but he doesn't have a grinder machine anyways.
I never saw a grinding chuck until randomly fed a vid of Dad the cleaning guy grinding all the journals on crank. At last I understood how chuck(s)can have that much throw. Other than that, I understand everything else you did cuz industrial repair work. It is amazing that some machinery performs its function as long as it does for all the wear it gets. Sometimes worn in two before they absolutely have to have a new replacement made. Lots of good guesswork to make a new shaft.
In the late 80’s I ground a 5020 axle at a JD dealership. I used a tool post grinder on our big lathe, with a 4 jaw on both sides. I started at the seal ledge then moved to the inner edge of the edge of no more sparks, then start over again at 0.002” plunge, then move left. After 3 hours of grinding I was at finished size. If you look closely at the picture of the hub, there is a bolt head 90° to the split wedge bolts. That bolt has the pinion that engages in the rack on the axle. On JD’s jack up the wheel, turn the rack up, loosen the split wedge bolts, tighten the loosener bolts, turn the rack to adjust the wheel in or out, loosen the loosener bolts, tighten up the split wedge bolts. NEVER EVER PUT ANTISEIZE ON THE WEDGE!!!!! I got to work on that tractor also. It was someone expensive mistaken idea! Hello from north east Montana. 10 miles from the Canadian border.
That berco brings back memories I have done that type work for 35 years block, heads, rods,balancing. Our grinder was 260 on centers, always wanted to have chucks
The 30 series and older tractors didn't use the lead ball method for setting the pre-load on the bearings. Without using a shim pack, the bearings would wear and loose pre-load. Once the pre-load was gone, the bearing would get loose and the seal would start leaking. If you use the lead ball method installing new bearings, axle bearings last almost forever.
I do a lot of lathe work in my shop . So this job could have been turned . But I am interested in learning how to run a crank grinder . They seem to be about the same op so I think I can learn how to do it Thanks for the video
There is another tapered bearing on the other end. There is also a sleeve that presses onto the shaft where you left that step about 1/2" wide. The seal rides on that sleeve. Those axles are case hardened so welding would be iffy. I have welded hubs onto them for pulling tractors but I always machine them a little where I am going to weld to remove the case hardened layer before welding. The hardness is about 1/16" deep/
Your Dad is old enough to remember when Made in Japan meant junk, likely made from car tag metal. These days NTN bearings from Japan are actually pretty good stuff. Enjoyed the video, thanks.
You are correct. Japanese materials and equipment now is world's finest. Back when I was a kid, 65 years or so back, their things were garbage. Now I see the same thing happening with China. In 20 years or so, maybe a bit more, made in China will have a whole different meaning.
@@JAMSIONLINE lighting has been fine on my end to be honest. Though I feel like lighting is something you notice if it's really bad, so maybe it's just not bad enough to bother me
Plasma spray weld build up then grind in areas you can't slide a undersized ID bearing . I just did one. Even ratty 6011 weld can be deposited and turned on a old lathe with carbide tool if on low budget. Nice work and channel 👍
Pending on the model, there's a planetary on the inside end of the shaft. Also, pending on the "wheel" style, JD, uses or used to used a wedge clamp style hub on where that keyway is and those slots are for the "rack and pinion" for wheel width adjustment. I was going to ask if it would be better to just spray weld to build up the area then turn/grind down to size but, you kinda answered my question. Great video, cheers :)
That Deere design is similar to your allis Chalmers tractor. Deere uses the pinch clamp as well but the teeth are like a rack and pinion. You turn a nut outside the hub and the hub travels up and down the shaft.
I'll admit I've only done a slightly advanced machining course but wouldn't two 4 jaw chucks allow a much more accurate centre on the bearing point because you could compensate for any bend on the wheel end more easily? After all 3 jaw chucks are locked together and (as I was taught) are only repeatably accurate from only one of the key positions.
I follow a guy in Australia "Cutting Edge Engineering Australia". First thing that came to mind was the old Crocodile Dundee line “That’s not a knife! This is a knife!”. I'm subscribed here, so I'm not knocking you at all. That guy does similar work for stuff maybe 3-4 times in diameter on a lathe.
The teeth on the shaft ack like a rack and pinion in concert with a rotating pinion in the hub. After you loosen the bolts in the hub and use the bolts to brake the wedge loose, you use the same socket on a 3/4 or 1" drive to adjust the hub in or out. You then back out the three bolts you used to loosen the wedge with and then tighten the bolts to draw the wedge lock back in.
Awesome! Them Dear John parts can be steep. Axles can be trued with flame straightening but that is an art. Chrome moly so no quick cooling, never let it get more than 500°F. Using a crank grinder is perfect tool for this.
I doubt that you can flame straighten it because it is necessary to get a spot red hot and then cool it very quickly. Not a good thing to do to an alloy steel. In real life, peening can be used to straighten a slight bend. This can be done cold, provided the shaft is not surface hardened.
I am grateful I lived during the wonderful era of inches and tenths of an inch and hundreds and thousands of an inch. The SR 71 blackbird was built with inches and without computers. Even in grade school 60+ years ago, they taught us metrics. But I’m glad it didn’t catch on.
The upper clamp has a pinion shaft that engages the axle shaft rack. There is a hex head on the end of the shaft can be rotated with wrench somewhere where around 1 inch to 7/8. You jack up the wheel to be adjusted rotate the wheel so the top clamp is up, loosen the 4 clamp bolts, the lower part of the clamp contains the key and engages the key way in the axle. Place a wrench on the pinion and the wheel assembly will slide in or out with little effort, 'your mileage may very'. Their are wheel assemblies that don't have this feature but the JD 2510 does.
cool to see the process and know that not everything that is worn out is necessarily out of use time... if you have to change out the grinding wheel is there something else that can be done with it...seeems an awful shame to lose so much useable grinding life?
11:23 When the cleaning guy in the machine shop is more knowledgeable than the commenters criticizing him, I don't want to mess with whoever he learned this from. I mean, he's just a cleaning guy and has that level of machining shop wisdom?
Hay guys, I enjoy your channel. Awhile ago you were installing v belts on tractor, and you specifically aligned the markings on the belts. I was a millwright for 34 years, and I never heard this. Please elaborate on this. Thanks, sincerely, Tom Low
Interesting video and as always awesome attention to detail. If you use a weld to build up the surface could you use spray weld?. Keep them coming always interesting and informative. Paul UK
Spray transfer is much preferred to arc welding. I had two axles from a backhoe (much shorter than that one) welded up and turned back to size by local shop. Both snapped off within a couple months. There’s plenty of used shafts in salvage yards if yours is worn too bad for the undersize.
Those teeth are for moving the axle hub in and out, there is gear inside the hub that comes out to a bolt head to help move it. Then they a set of wedges to lock the hub in place. Deere still uses this system today. Be causious doing this repair on the four wheel drive tractors, have seen many shaft failures after having the shaft cut undersize, or the shaft being welded and built up. The lower HP tractors seem to be okay for these repairs, but the four wheel drives tend to break in short order, and then things get way more expensive. Just a heads up.
Would help to take a little time an straighten the shaft before working on them? Keith Fenner at Turn Right Machine Works on TH-cam has a video him straightening a propeller shaft before he starts machining it for the boat. Would it be better to flame spray build up the shaft and then turn it down, put the original size bearing back on there. Because once you grind it down, next time like you said it would have to welded up for repair.
Any reason you don't take it down close then make your final pass traversing left to right?. That's how we always did it when grinding cylindrical parts.
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I would really love your opinion on this th-cam.com/video/GGTP9VXLpVM/w-d-xo.html
Those are called rack and pinion axles. There is a pinion gear in the wheel hub to assist in changing the the wheel position on the axle for various row crop conditions.
Correct. When they work it is awesome. When they don't... it's a bad day... and it will take the entire day too.
Worked great when you adjusted wheel width twice a year for moldboard plowing and then row crop work.
I saw the rack teeth and wondered what was going on, now I know. I never worked on AG stuff other than Grey Fergy tractors.
You’re pop is an awesome teacher. He is very specific about what he is doing and always explains why. I had a vocational teacher just like him and I absorbed everything that he said. Guys like your pop are few and far between and the knowledge of running a manual machine is a lost art that most newer machinists don’t know due to computers and the “throw it away and buy new” mentality that exists today. Thank you for taking the time to show and share your shop and knowledge, you are helping and teaching more people than you can imagine. Eddie wheels from NJ 😬🧑🏻🦽👍
SO TRUE A PROPER EDUCATOR . RARE AS HENS TEATH
So nice to see people that can actually fix things in this throw away world today!!!
Those gear rack teeth are for a hub bushing that wedges into the rim/hub when the bolts are tightened and keeps the tire assembly location
It's to facilitate moving the wheel in and out.
It’s actually a rack and pinion to facilitate moving the wheel and hub in or out. There are wedges that lock the hub to the axle. Worked for a Deere dealership for 34 years. I seen many a John Deere axle in those years. Also I believe the axles are forged.
Axle housing has a grease zerk to keep the outer bearing greased. This is what happens when you don't grease them.
Granted there is hydraulic oil there but it has to pass thru the inner bearing to reach the outer bearing. If you run it low on hydraulic oil it doesn't lube the outer bearing. I make sure to grease it every 250 hours and don't run it low on hydraulic oil. There is a gear with a bolt head that runs thru the hub runs in those splines. It allows you to crank the wheel in and out easily.
On a John Deere the outer bearing is only lubed by grease.
Strange thing is I've bought new tractors that had just a plug there.
I put new zerks in it to grease it.
I don't know if every 200 hours is enough but only put a few pumps in them. I don't want to push grease past the seals. Since I service them three times a year I figure it's enough. I bought that 4455 mech front drive 15 years ago used so I figure I'm at Least in the ball park with those. I have a 4250 that even older and same thing. I have less problems with them than my 7930 or my 8235R.
@@haveraygunwilltravel That's the problem. Guys were doing more damage by pumping way to much grease, or not making sure they were pumping clean grease. So JD said the hell with it and started blocking them off.
@@Failure_Is_An_Option not sure if JD is telling truth ..
Have a bad reputation with ECM and tech plus no parts before 1992 for my 690 E excavator .
Nebraska is suing Deere for violating Federal right to repair laws..
I went to CAT dealership and got parts for a newer excavator says "made in China" on box...
Almost threw it through CAT window.
I really like you guys. To me you’re an example of down home Internet success. You’ve earned it. So entertaining to watch.
Far smaller scale, but a friend’s zero-turn mower had an axle shaft bearing spinning loose for years and it cut a huge groove into the axle. There were no replacement axles on planet Earth so my local friendly machine shop welded it up and turned it back to specs. I used some red Loctite on it for re-assembly. Should last another 25 years. Great success!
Abom 79 has done cool videos going spray welding on bearing surfaces on shafts before, pretty neat process!
Among the most informative and natural skill channels there is. Full respect to all engineers who can work to 1/10 of a banana tolerances.
Businesses like yours are far more important in the coming times than any big fat corporations.
I just want to say how glad I am y’all are keeping these old machines going. My 66 Chevy every needs work like this, I hope to find a shop that cares this much.
JD has a wedge system on the axle. Loosen three bolts then there are two smaller bolts than you drive in to "break" the wedge loose. Then, using the bolt that kind of sticks out at an angle you can move the wheel. It's like a rack and pinion. When you have the wheel where you want it just reverse the process. It seemed like we were always moving wheels! Potatoes were on 36" rows, corn and beets were 30" and we moved the wheels out as far as we could when we plowed.
Really enjoy seeing the cleaning guy doing more hands on work. It's also really cool to know he has some jazz hands. Man of many talents that one.
facts
I really enjoyed watching this video. After having spent eight hours in front of the computer, it’s really great to see people actually making stuff. Good for you and your dad.
Very nice repair. We approach this type of repair a little differently. We use a diagonal gnurling tool on the lathe. This is fast and we use stock size OEM components. The gnurling wheel can be used for both OD & ID. It saves parts, time & money. We do this on pistons sometimes too as oil stays in the light grooves. Keep up the good work!
About what you said at 10:55 about subscribers:
One interesting perspective I heard was that subscribers don't matter that much. Your videos clearly have a wide reach (especially your shorts!), and with the algorithm becoming more and more important in driving viewership, what matters more is the mix of impressions, CTR and viewership retention.
But yes, I am subscribed, and it is nice to have an easy number tell you how good you're doing.
We had a similar issue with our 4630. Outer bearing surface was worn down. Our local machine shop turned down the surface of the the outer bearing on the axle. Then machined a sleeve with the correct OD for the bearing, and the correct ID for the axle. Split the sleeve, slip it in the axle, welded back together, polished, and returned to original size. 10 years and 2,000 hours later, it's still good.
Speaking of bent tractor axles, I've had 4 different tractors of my own and never once have I not had one with bent axles, closest I came was a low hour tractor I had about 10 years ago and it only slightly wobbled going down the road. My first one was a Belarus 250AS that felt more akin to riding on a bucking bronco than a tractor on the road.
I mean, Belarus... what else would you expect?
@@andoletube Well my second Belarus 250AS with about 500 less hours didn't have that problem, beside, those things are darned well impossible to kill. For Pete's sake, their fuses are simply different gauges of wire ran between 2 metal clips on a hard plastic board with a bunch of extra wire wrapped around it. While they don't have bells or whistles, they do have portal hubs and down pressure hydraulics. I have buried them in mud, simply picked up the implement, threw a log under it, then used the down pressure on the hydraulics to lift the entire tractor up, tossed some rocks and logs under the back tires and off I went. Not to mention the down pressure hydraulics makes running a post hole digger incredibly easy, just be careful or you'll screw it into the ground, literally
@@southronjr1570 I believe you, I was just saying that refinement and precision is not what you associate with Belarus.
Sometimes the bucking is caused from flat spots in the tires from sitting. The farms Versatile 875 is terrible for the first 5 miles, can only do about 10 to 12 mph. Eventually you can get up to full speed.
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
@@andoletube Refinement or comfort were definitely not in their design parameters, I do believe if they could have found a simple mechanical way to raise and lower the implements they would have, heck if they could have gotten away with making the operators do it by hand they would have.
Many years ago I visited an electric motor repair shop (upwards of 300 HP, water cooled) that sprayed powdered hot metal onto worn armature shafts. Spray gun had a large flame coming out of it. I’m guessing they preheated the armature shaft. Shaft was later machined back to desired diameter.
Excellent video. That cleaning guy does a great job 😂.
Yea I think he should get a raise in pay...
Cleaning Man should get promoted to Top Machinist.
Great job guys.
If your interested in watching some precission engineering where welding and building OD and ID surfaces up before refacing them again, there's a young Australian guy named Kurtis who has a TH-cam channel called Cutting Edge Engineering!.
As an automotive enthusiast, I really love the content both channels share.
This grinding operation is higher precision...
Kurtis may have a cylindrical grinder. I have only seen lathes on his channel though.
Abom79 did some spray welding to repair a shaft. th-cam.com/video/FLYdhfgF6Pg/w-d-xo.html
He has a new cylinder grinder did a set up on it about month ago.
Yep, so does another 500,000 subscribers like his work and Karen's video work.
Always a pleasure to see your craftsmanship and dedication to perfection as much as possible.well done ! ⭐
It's awesome watching a professional work. You can always stress relief after welding.
Thank you for doing all you do + helping anyone that wants to watch ! Love all the content and work you do keep up the bad ass work !
So cool watching a master at his craft!!! Very nice!!
I see Kurtis (Cutting Edge Engineering, Gold Coast Aus.) use his tape measure all the time and he quite often works to interference fit (half a thou less) in his heavy machinery work. It's what you do when time and money are on the line.
Back in 2007 and 2008 I worked at two different machine shops running an engine lathe. The first one I worked at, we got farm equipment shafts in to repair journals where the bearing wore into the shaft. They had me knurl the shaft there and then file and polish it back down to size. Knurling increases the diameter. The second shop, I would turn .100" off the diameter, a welder guy would weld it back up, and I would turn it back down to size. Welding always bent the shafts a bit though from the heat.
@18:05. To move a tractor tire spacing, you set those teeth on the axle straight up. There is a gear on the inside of a John Deere wheel that has a bolt coming off of it outside of the wheel. If you set the axle straight up then you can use that gear in those teeth to move the wheel in or out.
2:42
Put that dance on a loop to music and release it as a short
I have a strong desire to feel that journal with my thumb
It felt so nice 😩
Great demonstration of the value that a skilled shop can bring.
Love how your father explained the process in fixing this axel. Your father is very knowledgeable person on all the machine work and other things he works on. No computer could ever replace him or his knowledge. Love your video’s you guy’s and thanks for sharing.☺️☺️☺️☺️☺️👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
At 3:58 Ain't that the thruth! Spot on!
Your dad reminds me of my dad when he explains stuff. I love listening to him. Amazing content.
You guys make very informative & weirdly relaxing videos. You should make a video talking about how a person can get into your line of work…….trade school, college, start as a grunt in a shop…..etc.
Thanks & keep up the good work.
Not many trade schools operating anymore and very few shops willing to hire apprentices from scratch without advanced training. Mistakes in this type of work can be very costly.
once again nice work, i spent 20 years in grinding compressor crank shafts watching this reminds me of all the skill around me back then.
I love watching you guys. In another life I would be a machinist.
Great job. And you're not wrong on Dad's "Tik Tok Dance" moves ... love it !!!
I use a flame spray torch and build-up metal powder to repair spun bearing shaft damage or wear. Most powders are nickel based and require no where near welding temperatures. I think the best is Castolin's Terodyn System 2000, but it's an expensive setup. I use a Victor's VPT-100 torch and Victor #22 Powder. Stoody makes an equivalent built-up powder. Both are easy to machine.
Both the Terodyn System 2000 and the VPT-100 torch are great for applying carbide and Stellite hardfacing coatings as well.
I love that this video is more tutorial. Instead of concentric, I was thinking axial runout.
A dairy farmer in New York, goes by the name of Farming Fixing & Fabricating on TH-cam, had an axle break on an 8120 due to heat applied to remove the outer bearing. He talks about the failure in a video titled "Tires cost per mile | Axle Explained and shop work". The axle part starts at 5:30, I don't know on the older tractors like this 4230 would have the same heat treating or not, but John Deere seems to say to not heat near the outer bearing so as to not mess with the heat treatment done to the axle.
Just giving a heads up on what I've heard from another source. Again, don't know if it applies to this vintage of a Deere.
The "rack" on the axle opposite the keyway is for a gear that is in one of the wedge halves to engage on to move the wheel in or out when the wedges are loose. Otherwise it is the same arrangement, 2 tapered wedges, one with key machined in it and other with the gear to move it, that tighten to lock wheel to axle.
It's crazy to see such loose tolerances allowed on that axle runout for that undersize bearing, especially with how closely you two always are able to work to 0.
You might like to consider HVOF metal spray to reclaim worn surfaces.. Neat video of the setting up & grinding, thanks....
This way it can be spray welded and turned back to original size if undersize bearing is not an option. Spray welding is not as hot as traditional welding eliminating warping or hardening of part. An example is on Abom79 you tube channel SNS 300: Spray Welding a Blower Shaft.
@lubyjr65 Hey thanks, lm going to check that out simply because l don't think l've ever come across that process before and it sounds interesting.
I'm not an engineer, fitter, welder however A channel called Cutting Edge Engineering may interest you.
The guy is Australian and deals with big machinery parts repairs and re fits.
Super interesting guy to watch applying his trade.
Have a nice day.
@@lubyjr65 Are the spray welds amenable to grinding to final size?. Abom 79 always cuts on the lathe to final size, but he doesn't have a grinder machine anyways.
I never saw a grinding chuck until randomly fed a vid of Dad the cleaning guy grinding all the journals on crank. At last I understood how chuck(s)can have that much throw. Other than that, I understand everything else you did cuz industrial repair work. It is amazing that some machinery performs its function as long as it does for all the wear it gets. Sometimes worn in two before they absolutely have to have a new replacement made. Lots of good guesswork to make a new shaft.
In the late 80’s I ground a 5020 axle at a JD dealership. I used a tool post grinder on our big lathe, with a 4 jaw on both sides. I started at the seal ledge then moved to the inner edge of the edge of no more sparks, then start over again at 0.002” plunge, then move left. After 3 hours of grinding I was at finished size.
If you look closely at the picture of the hub, there is a bolt head 90° to the split wedge bolts. That bolt has the pinion that engages in the rack on the axle. On JD’s jack up the wheel, turn the rack up, loosen the split wedge bolts, tighten the loosener bolts, turn the rack to adjust the wheel in or out, loosen the loosener bolts, tighten up the split wedge bolts. NEVER EVER PUT ANTISEIZE ON THE WEDGE!!!!!
I got to work on that tractor also. It was someone expensive mistaken idea!
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
Dad is one awesome teacher ...Mike
That berco brings back memories I have done that type work for 35 years block, heads, rods,balancing. Our grinder was 260 on centers, always wanted to have chucks
The 30 series and older tractors didn't use the lead ball method for setting the pre-load on the bearings. Without using a shim pack, the bearings would wear and loose pre-load. Once the pre-load was gone, the bearing would get loose and the seal would start leaking. If you use the lead ball method installing new bearings, axle bearings last almost forever.
You and your dad are awesome, great videos! Thank you! The information in these videos is amazing.
I do a lot of lathe work in my shop . So this job could have been turned . But I am interested in learning how to run a crank grinder . They seem to be about the same op so I think I can learn how to do it Thanks for the video
Anyone can learn, just takes patience lol
There is another tapered bearing on the other end. There is also a sleeve that presses onto the shaft where you left that step about 1/2" wide. The seal rides on that sleeve. Those axles are case hardened so welding would be iffy. I have welded hubs onto them for pulling tractors but I always machine them a little where I am going to weld to remove the case hardened layer before welding. The hardness is about 1/16" deep/
Great to see the conversation and humor between you 2! Awesome!
Your Dad is old enough to remember when Made in Japan meant junk, likely made from car tag metal.
These days NTN bearings from Japan are actually pretty good stuff.
Enjoyed the video, thanks.
You are correct. Japanese materials and equipment now is world's finest. Back when I was a kid, 65 years or so back, their things were garbage. Now I see the same thing happening with China. In 20 years or so, maybe a bit more, made in China will have a whole different meaning.
I have done these in the lathe using CBN inserts too.
I love how smooth your camera is at 60fps! Some setups I see sacrifice frame rate for 4K quality and I can't stand it.
Thank you!
It's amazing how well it does, but the lighting has been pretty meh lately. Guess it's time to buy blinds for the windows for when I'm filming
@@JAMSIONLINE lighting has been fine on my end to be honest. Though I feel like lighting is something you notice if it's really bad, so maybe it's just not bad enough to bother me
Wish I could hit the like button more than once. This is good stuff...
I like being notified.... I have patience and look forward to the content 😎
The cleaning guy nails it again!
Nice work! I have a lathe and a mill, but I am just learning.. this video is a great teaching tool. Thank you for your expertise.
Plasma spray weld build up then grind in areas you can't slide a undersized ID bearing .
I just did one.
Even ratty 6011 weld can be deposited and turned on a old lathe with carbide tool if on low budget.
Nice work and channel 👍
I want a grinder like that! The Ridgidity of that machine is awesome.
7:44 I had a Back to the Future III flashblack at this moment
I just done two of these in my lathe a few days ago. I used a tool post grinder.
Pending on the model, there's a planetary on the inside end of the shaft. Also, pending on the "wheel" style, JD, uses or used to used a wedge clamp style hub on where that keyway is and those slots are for the "rack and pinion" for wheel width adjustment.
I was going to ask if it would be better to just spray weld to build up the area then turn/grind down to size but, you kinda answered my question. Great video, cheers :)
That Deere design is similar to your allis Chalmers tractor. Deere uses the pinch clamp as well but the teeth are like a rack and pinion. You turn a nut outside the hub and the hub travels up and down the shaft.
The cleaning guy needs a big raise💰😂
Ah the back to the future reference was awesome! What a great guy!
17/10s i have nooooo idea 😅😅
I'll admit I've only done a slightly advanced machining course but wouldn't two 4 jaw chucks allow a much more accurate centre on the bearing point because you could compensate for any bend on the wheel end more easily? After all 3 jaw chucks are locked together and (as I was taught) are only repeatably accurate from only one of the key positions.
You are correct it’s a piñon rack that helps move wheel in and out!
I follow a guy in Australia "Cutting Edge Engineering Australia". First thing that came to mind was the old Crocodile Dundee line “That’s not a knife! This is a knife!”. I'm subscribed here, so I'm not knocking you at all. That guy does similar work for stuff maybe 3-4 times in diameter on a lathe.
Thank you for this very precise and detailed explanation of how this is repaired.
The teeth on the shaft ack like a rack and pinion in concert with a rotating pinion in the hub. After you loosen the bolts in the hub and use the bolts to brake the wedge loose, you use the same socket on a 3/4 or 1" drive to adjust the hub in or out. You then back out the three bolts you used to loosen the wedge with and then tighten the bolts to draw the wedge lock back in.
Awesome! Them Dear John parts can be steep. Axles can be trued with flame straightening but that is an art. Chrome moly so no quick cooling, never let it get more than 500°F.
Using a crank grinder is perfect tool for this.
I doubt that you can flame straighten it because it is necessary to get a spot red hot and then cool it very quickly. Not a good thing to do to an alloy steel.
In real life, peening can be used to straighten a slight bend. This can be done cold, provided the shaft is not surface hardened.
them grooves are to slide the hub in and out there 4 bolts toehold in place and fourth one you use to slide it in and out
I am grateful I lived during the wonderful era of inches and tenths of an inch and hundreds and thousands of an inch. The SR 71 blackbird was built with inches and without computers. Even in grade school 60+ years ago, they taught us metrics. But I’m glad it didn’t catch on.
The upper clamp has a pinion shaft that engages the axle shaft rack. There is a hex head on the end of the shaft can be rotated with wrench somewhere where around 1 inch to 7/8. You jack up the wheel to be adjusted rotate the wheel so the top clamp is up, loosen the 4 clamp bolts, the lower part of the clamp contains the key and engages the key way in the axle. Place a wrench on the pinion and the wheel assembly will slide in or out with little effort, 'your mileage may very'. Their are wheel assemblies that don't have this feature but the JD 2510 does.
You forgot the step where you tighten the push off bolts to (hopefully) loosen the wedge!
@@jimrankin2583 Yes, that is correct.
It's nice they had enough step in the shaft to do that much better than building up or spray welding
These are great videos. I always learn something new.
What are the advantages of sleeves in comparison to spray welding and building the surface back up and grinding it to spec?
How do feel about spray welding to build up the worn down area and then turning or grinding it down to the spec size?
cool to see the process and know that not everything that is worn out is necessarily out of use time... if you have to change out the grinding wheel is there something else that can be done with it...seeems an awful shame to lose so much useable grinding life?
On a normal lathe, wouldn't you use a steady rest near the outer bearing surface to avoid the influence from the bent portion of the axle?
11:23 When the cleaning guy in the machine shop is more knowledgeable than the commenters criticizing him, I don't want to mess with whoever he learned this from.
I mean, he's just a cleaning guy and has that level of machining shop wisdom?
Hay guys, I enjoy your channel. Awhile ago you were installing v belts on tractor, and you specifically aligned the markings on the belts. I was a millwright for 34 years, and I never heard this. Please elaborate on this. Thanks, sincerely, Tom Low
Is there a possibility to use flamespray for building up the journal?
Having a "Round to it" is awesome!
Spray welding shafts like that is used for salvaging production shafts.
The machine shop here in Hereford Tx does a bunch of this kind of work
Interesting video and as always awesome attention to detail. If you use a weld to build up the surface could you use spray weld?. Keep them coming always interesting and informative. Paul UK
Spray transfer is much preferred to arc welding. I had two axles from a backhoe (much shorter than that one) welded up and turned back to size by local shop. Both snapped off within a couple months. There’s plenty of used shafts in salvage yards if yours is worn too bad for the undersize.
It's a drive rack for positioning the wheel.
Pardon my ignorance here but how does the undersize bearing fit along that shaft? Is it heated to expand? Lovely to watch anyhow.
the cleaning guy is pretty smart. must have been listening for years!!
How about adding material, then grinding?
Cool video! I love the oddball stuff.
Your dad is a hellacious machinist.
Those teeth are for moving the axle hub in and out, there is gear inside the hub that comes out to a bolt head to help move it. Then they a set of wedges to lock the hub in place. Deere still uses this system today.
Be causious doing this repair on the four wheel drive tractors, have seen many shaft failures after having the shaft cut undersize, or the shaft being welded and built up. The lower HP tractors seem to be okay for these repairs, but the four wheel drives tend to break in short order, and then things get way more expensive. Just a heads up.
Assumed it was something along those lines! Sometimes as machinists we don't get to see the whole picture. Helps to understand!
Would help to take a little time an straighten the shaft before working on them? Keith Fenner at Turn Right Machine Works on TH-cam has a video him straightening a propeller shaft before he starts machining it for the boat. Would it be better to flame spray build up the shaft and then turn it down, put the original size bearing back on there. Because once you grind it down, next time like you said it would have to welded up for repair.
I like to use imperial metric measurements: “Hey, could you pass me that 22 and 17/32 mm wrench?”
Well done as always.
Any reason you don't take it down close then make your final pass traversing left to right?. That's how we always did it when grinding cylindrical parts.
Looking forward to start seeing the "Jamsi Dance" videos come out! 🤣👍