A nice video Richard. Also a pleasure to see your continued enthusiasm in developing your model railway layout, attention to detail and realism being most important.
Another fun update Richard, thank you for your time in sharing. One thing i would offer as advise, especially as this is a portable layout, when your laying more road, add some black to tge base road layer, that way if/when it gets bashed you wont have a white layer glaring back at you Can wait for your next instalment
A great video, with lots of useful tips. Thanks Richard. I may well try the Woodland Scenics method on my layout, as I never knew about it before. All the best. Mark.
Hi Richard. Have you tried mixing the paint into the plaster mix before mixing. It should give an even colour that if it chips, as most plasters can do, you won’t get any white patches. Overpaint as normal at the end to break up the even colour.
Looks great. Really like the different levels in the area you have been working. I find it difficult to imagine the finished layout to work out the foundation in planning but clearly you had an excellent vision.
Very fine grade wet and dry abrasive paper makes a very convincing road surface, 1200 or 2400 grade depending on the scale of the road surface. These grades are smooth.
Hi love the new layout. There an artists acrylic medium called black lava made by galleria. It's is great for creating road surfaces as it mimics tarmac. Apply with a pallet knife allow to dry and then a thin coat of gesso before painting. Ideal for dry prushing too
Nice video Richard. I like how the road is not super smooth it looks rough and ready which would typically be what you would see for a rural road. Nice one mate. - Nicholas.
Just a helpful hint. After sanding the plaster be sure and take a damp cloth and wipe the dust off before painting. Should stop the bubbles. Didn’t see you do this on camera. Nice layout.
Another fantastic video today. Heres an idea, you could add some working traffic lights to this side of the bridge, controlling traffic under it. Ive seen it used before to allow traffic in one direvtion under a bridge at a time, im sure you can get working traffic lights somewhere!
If you had the time, you could have used a lollipop stick or something to rule out the lumps and bumps/fill the low ends with the top ends whilst it was still a little wet, then near the end of the drying process you could use a plastic spatula or something to smooth it out a little more instead of having to resort to sanding after it dries
In time are you going to add any pedestrians, walking along the main road, or the side road to the Heritage Line Station? Perhaps they could be on a weekend break, and exploring the countryside during the summer?
Roads are rarely, if ever, flat - they have curved cross-section surface so that rain and stormwater drains to a swale or other drainage at the sides. Not that difficult to do - just 'level' the sculptamold with a slight concave edge. Your matchstick edge provides a great basis for roadside swale - after removing them, just scatter some landscape materials to round off the edges.
Another great video Richard, just surprising how different it looks with road added, look forward to seeing how it turns out, hope to see you on the 15th if you are at GETS
Great video as ever, Richard. Although, just be a little picky (or maybe a hint for others), that would more likely be a double solid white on the main road. Having a bridge, bend, and junction in close proximity to each other would be considered a substantial hazard. Of course, there's bound to be a prototype that proves me wrong! ;)
Don't wait for sculptor mould. Take some sheets of soft toilet paper, put it in your nutri bullet dry, give it a whizz and you get fluff. Put about an inch or so of plaster into a fruit jar and fill jar loosely with the paper fluff. Shake vigoursly to coat the fluff with plaster. Add water and mix to the consistency you require. Way, way cheaper than sculptor mould and equally as effective and the delivery time is far shorter.
Great video Richard. I'll tag New Junction in a photo on Instagram, of the depot car park on my layout, and the saxophone music you used, reminds me of pages from ceefax on bbc2 back in the day! Great tune!
make your own sculpture mold with plaster of Paris and finely shredded toilet roll somewhere on you tube there is a video showing how its done sorry i cant remember who posted it but its just as good and a whole lot cheaper
Its really coming along now Richard hopefully get chance to say hello this year at GETS you looked very busy last year when i met Garry so didnt get the chance to say hi kind regards Tony
It was gr8 to meet you at GETS sorry if i rambled on as was a bit nervous when meeting new people didnt get to ask u half of what i wanted to ask haha hopefully i get to meet again soon all the best . PS going british model show gaydon on the sunday dont know if accurascale will be there? Take care
If the passing place is on route the heritage railway a bulk tipper with coal would definitely be a fit. (As long as it looks like mine I'll allow it 🤣)
I enjoy the channel and the wonderful progress. Just wondering though,… are you confusing bridges and tunnels? Where is the ‘other’ girder for the road under bridge ? And where does the tunnel start after the bridge? The higher level ‘bridge’ also seems to have only one girder.
@@NewJunction Hope you see my response as constructive (as opposed to trolling). The other girder couldn’t possibly be off scene. It needs to be close enough to the front girder to support the beams that in turn support the track. In effect, a girder bridge has two (or more, depending on the width of the bridge) girders running each side of and in parallel with the tracks. These do not support the tracks, merely span across the road underneath. The track bed is actually supported by secondary beams at 90 degrees to the track, the ends of which rest on the two girders that run parallel with the track. If the track is supported on Earth as opposed to beams, there is no need for any parallel girders, as it would be a tunnel. To engineers / close observers of railways, the scene doesn’t look right I’m afraid. Hope this helps. Ps, the decision to tunnel, excavate a cutting, build a bridge, combinations of the above are based on economics which in turn are largely based on soil type and amount involved. Whatever - you can’t simply plonk a single (unattached) girder on there. My advice… Either make the road go straight into a tunnel (and do away with the girder) or checkout the branch line on Everard Junction which goes under a bridge and then immediately into a tunnel. You have a similar issue with your branch when it goes under the main line, you have a tunnel with a bridge portal rather than a tunnel portal.
You don't have the Give Way markings correct. Do your research by viewing real markings online. Where's the triangle?... the lines are unlawful without one.
The whole road is a mess and he should redo it anyway. Sorry but everyone telling him it looks great is not helping him. Should watch some videos about it and try it on a test board first before putting it on his layout which until now was progressing very well all round.
Don't forget you can support the channel here:
www.patreon.com/NewJunction/
Very nice update Richard!! Thanks for sharing this video. Cheers Onno.
Although I don't comment very often, I am an avid follower of your videos which are always very interesting and entertaining to watch.
Thanks, appreciate it! 😊
A nice video Richard. Also a pleasure to see your continued enthusiasm in developing your model railway layout, attention to detail and realism being most important.
Another fun update Richard, thank you for your time in sharing. One thing i would offer as advise, especially as this is a portable layout, when your laying more road, add some black to tge base road layer, that way if/when it gets bashed you wont have a white layer glaring back at you
Can wait for your next instalment
Thanks 😊
awesome step by step process. Looking like a real scene. Great work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Really starts to come alive once the scenery is started. Looking forward to see it progress ☺
Brilliant train layout New Junction
Many thanks!
Great video as always Richard. Really like the techniques used for your road surface. Keep up the great work as always
James
A great video, with lots of useful tips. Thanks Richard. I may well try the Woodland Scenics method on my layout, as I never knew about it before. All the best. Mark.
You are doing a good job keep up with the good work
😮😮😮😮
The different levels look great from the closing segment of the video 👏👏👏
Glad you think so!
Nice to see a update on layout
Nice update, like how it’s coming together. Looking forward to the next update.
Think lighting will be the next step on mine 👍
Nice road work👍🏽
Hi Richard. Have you tried mixing the paint into the plaster mix before mixing. It should give an even colour that if it chips, as most plasters can do, you won’t get any white patches. Overpaint as normal at the end to break up the even colour.
Amazing work as always Richard!
Some progress is always better than no progress! Great update, Richard!
Thanks
Looks great. Really like the different levels in the area you have been working. I find it difficult to imagine the finished layout to work out the foundation in planning but clearly you had an excellent vision.
The pop holes scaled down will be massive.. Great vids as always
You've not seen the roads near me haha
Great video mate! I would love to try doing my own roads this way, I just worry that I would do a terrible job
Can't be worse than my mess haha give it ago, nothing can't be reversed should you not be happy. 😊
I love the method for laying a road!
Thanks
Looking great mate
Very fine grade wet and dry abrasive paper makes a very convincing road surface, 1200 or 2400 grade depending on the scale of the road surface. These grades are smooth.
Thanks ❤
I discovered this on Pinterest recently and I can't go back! Acrylic paint markers work really well for consistent lines
Instead of that faf for the road. Use 3mm pvc foam board. It paints beautifully and is easy to cut and carve.
Hi love the new layout. There an artists acrylic medium called black lava made by galleria. It's is great for creating road surfaces as it mimics tarmac. Apply with a pallet knife allow to dry and then a thin coat of gesso before painting. Ideal for dry prushing too
That's come a long way since the last video, Richard. Great work, of course!
Nice video Richard. I like how the road is not super smooth it looks rough and ready which would typically be what you would see for a rural road. Nice one mate. - Nicholas.
Bumpy roads in towns too, don't forget ! 😊😊
👍👍Turned out very nice! Layout coming along quite well. 🚂🚂
Glad you like it
Just a helpful hint. After sanding the plaster be sure and take a damp cloth and wipe the dust off before painting. Should stop the bubbles. Didn’t see you do this on camera. Nice layout.
Sculptamold from America... is that cheaper than buying from the UK?
Some overall good work here Richard, your roads look quite good, keep,up the great work.
Bit more fetling required
I wish I could have a layout like this ❤
Another fantastic video today. Heres an idea, you could add some working traffic lights to this side of the bridge, controlling traffic under it. Ive seen it used before to allow traffic in one direvtion under a bridge at a time, im sure you can get working traffic lights somewhere!
Good work on the channel layout looks good thanks lee
Thanks 👍
the layout is looking good slowly getting there
❤ slowly but surely
You could place a mirror in the road bridge to give it it more depth
Great idea!
If you had the time, you could have used a lollipop stick or something to rule out the lumps and bumps/fill the low ends with the top ends whilst it was still a little wet, then near the end of the drying process you could use a plastic spatula or something to smooth it out a little more instead of having to resort to sanding after it dries
The sanding smooths not only the plaster but the paint stroke marks. It also reveals previous layers of grey which are different. 😊
@@NewJunction ah fair enough mate, makes sense
In time are you going to add any pedestrians, walking along the main road, or the side road to the Heritage Line Station? Perhaps they could be on a weekend break, and exploring the countryside during the summer?
Roads are rarely, if ever, flat - they have curved cross-section surface so that rain and stormwater drains to a swale or other drainage at the sides. Not that difficult to do - just 'level' the sculptamold with a slight concave edge. Your matchstick edge provides a great basis for roadside swale - after removing them, just scatter some landscape materials to round off the edges.
Top tip!
Another great video Richard, just surprising how different it looks with road added, look forward to seeing how it turns out, hope to see you on the 15th if you are at GETS
Great video as ever, Richard. Although, just be a little picky (or maybe a hint for others), that would more likely be a double solid white on the main road. Having a bridge, bend, and junction in close proximity to each other would be considered a substantial hazard. Of course, there's bound to be a prototype that proves me wrong! ;)
There's a prototype for everything haha
🇺🇦
Hi Richard.
Great tutorial vlog buddy. Can never decide how best to do my roads.
Those matchsticks are so useful.
Thanks mucker.
DELPH JUNCTION
Thanks 😊
Coming along well Richard😊😊
Thanks
Don't wait for sculptor mould. Take some sheets of soft toilet paper, put it in your nutri bullet dry, give it a whizz and you get fluff. Put about an inch or so of plaster into a fruit jar and fill jar loosely with the paper fluff. Shake vigoursly to coat the fluff with plaster. Add water and mix to the consistency you require. Way, way cheaper than sculptor mould and equally as effective and the delivery time is far shorter.
Thanks!
An arch of 10-15° for the road bed surface is used for drainage if you have an idea to experiment around with one of the new roads.
With more time you could really achieve something very realistic 😊
Great video Richard. I'll tag New Junction in a photo on Instagram, of the depot car park on my layout, and the saxophone music you used, reminds me of pages from ceefax on bbc2 back in the day! Great tune!
"Roughly smooth" is exactly how it would look if I were doing it
Haha
Don't wait 7 weeks for Sculptamold. There are a few TH-cam videos showing different methods for making your own similar stuff.
I'll check it out!
Hi new junction when are the BR Mk2b coaches coming out mate l
Hey Richard, looking good. I've noticed you haven't done the worst bit yet ballasting. Are you putting it off?
Many thanks
Harry
I may do a little, got a few jobs first haha
Hi Richard, a side question. Where did you get the display cases for your locos?
Picture pride cabinets
make your own sculpture mold with plaster of Paris and finely shredded toilet roll somewhere on you tube there is a video showing how its done sorry i cant remember who posted it but its just as good and a whole lot cheaper
It's coming together, eh? 👍
Curiousity got the better of me, though, why order Scuptamold from the US? Is it cheaper even with shipping?
Apparently so
Looks great, buddy.
May I ask what couches you are running behind your Manor? I’m not sure what to run with mine 🤷🏼♂️
Bachmann pullmans
Is that a bin from a train hiding underneath?
Well spotted 😉
How’s the garden railway going?
Being wound down again now the weather's turned 😅
Its really coming along now Richard hopefully get chance to say hello this year at GETS you looked very busy last year when i met Garry so didnt get the chance to say hi kind regards Tony
I'll be on the Accurascale stand, looking forward to saying Hello 😆
@@NewJunction see you there buddy
Excellent video Richard what coaches were you running with the manor class please
Bachmann pullmans
i highly doubt you will reply, but worth a shot, the diecast model of the transit is unreal, where did you get the personalised one from?
@@joshdelaney6878 leighsmodelsand hobbys online do them 😊
It was gr8 to meet you at GETS sorry if i rambled on as was a bit nervous when meeting new people didnt get to ask u half of what i wanted to ask haha hopefully i get to meet again soon all the best . PS going british model show gaydon on the sunday dont know if accurascale will be there? Take care
If the passing place is on route the heritage railway a bulk tipper with coal would definitely be a fit. (As long as it looks like mine I'll allow it 🤣)
👍 from belgium
❤ thanks
I enjoy the channel and the wonderful progress. Just wondering though,… are you confusing bridges and tunnels? Where is the ‘other’ girder for the road under bridge ? And where does the tunnel start after the bridge? The higher level ‘bridge’ also seems to have only one girder.
I know what you mean, they'd be 'off scene, in this instance
@@NewJunction Hope you see my response as constructive (as opposed to trolling). The other girder couldn’t possibly be off scene. It needs to be close enough to the front girder to support the beams that in turn support the track.
In effect, a girder bridge has two (or more, depending on the width of the bridge) girders running each side of and in parallel with the tracks. These do not support the tracks, merely span across the road underneath. The track bed is actually supported by secondary beams at 90 degrees to the track, the ends of which rest on the two girders that run parallel with the track.
If the track is supported on Earth as opposed to beams, there is no need for any parallel girders, as it would be a tunnel. To engineers / close observers of railways, the scene doesn’t look right I’m afraid. Hope this helps.
Ps, the decision to tunnel, excavate a cutting, build a bridge, combinations of the above are based on economics which in turn are largely based on soil type and amount involved. Whatever - you can’t simply plonk a single (unattached) girder on there.
My advice… Either make the road go straight into a tunnel (and do away with the girder) or checkout the branch line on Everard Junction which goes under a bridge and then immediately into a tunnel.
You have a similar issue with your branch when it goes under the main line, you have a tunnel with a bridge portal rather than a tunnel portal.
Evening Richard brilliant road looks fantastic 👍
Thanks 👍
Cool
🎉
@@NewJunction 🎈
You don't have the Give Way markings correct. Do your research by viewing real markings online. Where's the triangle?... the lines are unlawful without one.
The whole road is a mess and he should redo it anyway. Sorry but everyone telling him it looks great is not helping him. Should watch some videos about it and try it on a test board first before putting it on his layout which until now was progressing very well all round.
The joys of Modelling, can keep redoing things until I'm happy.
@@NewJunction I look forward to seeing your progress, has been great so far.