If you have not already got one, consider a dehumidifier because it will reduce the moisture in the air which will help dry the build and also keep the room damp free plus reduce the need for heating in the room - I use a Maeco one and it is amazing the difference it makes without needing to crank up the heating to remove that damp feeling
Captivating. Thanks for sharing and well done on the progress. Thanks for sharing your exploits and very inspirational for a new model railway builder like me.
with that small section in front of the tunnel portals that you said about not putting anything in cause of having to move the portals; if you constantly have to move the portals cause of layout transformation, you could always make a small section of the hill for there, attach 2 dowel rods to the bottom and drill 2 holes so that you can remove it at anytime. i would recommend a small built up area on layout part that you can decorate with like a bush to hide any imperfection that is caused from the removable piece. always enjoy watching the videos and seeing the progress you make!
Amazing layout Richard. Something I saw on another channel that very few seem to know is rubbing the plaster cloth once laid smooths out and removes all the weave! This gives a smooth, undulating finished surface and therefore no real need for all that sculptamold. 👍
I use the black and decker dehumidifier where I store my collection just to be on the safe side my flat is dry but still have to empty it out every 10 days it will help mate ,the layout is going to be awesome I hope you do a 3D model of lulu to go on there running through the fields bless her a big woof to lulu a virtual handshake from me bud and all the best to you and family Mark 😊😊🐕🦺🫱🏼🫲🏼
Looking great. Glad you're eventually getting lines 3 and 4 finished on the mainline. Your progress with New Garden Junction and New New Junction have been a great inspiration to my building initially of the 7mm setup in my parents' back garden (which will be stripped out when I go up for christmas, so I can reuse the track for my 7mm loft layout) and of the TT:120 layout ("Birdforth") that I'm currently working on (almost finished laying and wiring the track, so not too long until I need to erect backscenes and think about what exactly do I want as scenery). I said I'd watch this tonight...
Can I suggest adding the paint with the warm water when dipping the splaster cloth. I found the water absorbs the colour and it hiddes the white. Thus add the colòur to scupture mold with pva will bond the colour better. Just a suggestion.great layout.
Hi Richard, All that plastering and painting with the coaches sitting there in splatter distance was giving me palpitations lol. It looks really good though and I agree, it's probably alot cheaper and easier to just repair any chips (if they occur). The rail joiner mate are really useful, I got a set myself and as saved me from abit of cursing whilst working on the fiddleyard :) Cheers, Michael
Richard I can't believe your waiting for material from USA to complete and then waiting for time to dry. Try using the polly filler you used for your roads, dob it on and then paint it over bandage material with 2"/3" really wet paint brush. You will have a hard shell as soon as it drys and it will dry really fast. Faster and way cheaper.
Was good to briefly see you at GETS! Great progress … lovely to see LuLu again … and I like the cheeky sneaky product placement of the Accurascale Nova box under the layout! 😜 One tip … maybe worthwhile investing in a dehumidifier? They really help reduce damp, stabilises items such as card kits and MDF etc, but also can help reduce drying times! Very useful especially during this time of year 👍
Since most damage to scenery on a portable layout occurs at the interfaces and board edges. Plywood profiles of the desired scenery shape would add protection and also make hot wire sculpting easier with a profile to draw the wire along.
You give me inspiration Richard. Im about to start track laying on my garage build but seeing how you have cracked on gives me the confidence to do the same! Just hope it turns out even half as good!
The warmer the water the quicker the plaster bandage will cure. I know this more as i used to be an orthopaedic technician in the hospitals doing plaster on broken arms and legs, So do have a bit of expriance with it. Best job i ever had to be honest.
Looking good! The land form looks entirely natural with the railway cutting through. Too many layouts look like the railway came first with the landscape being built up around it. I agree with you about the paint / Sculptamold - but I’ll probably try it for myself on my next layout now that I know about it. Great video.
Great work, Richard. Sadly, whoever told you to dye the sculptamold forgot to tell you to go a much darker hue/shade, because the putty itself will lighten it. You definitely do use a lot more paint, because you are technically painting every cubic millimeter, and not just the surface. It has its benefits (no touch up repairs on chips, less work on rock facings when doing them) and drawbacks (cost). So, it was cool to see you try it and give it a bash! Cheers
Check your clearances, I originally did mine with mk3s many years ago, since then class 170s, class 153s and particularly the Azuma have given me some nasty surprises!
The trouble with adding paint to filler/sculptamould etc is that it's already diluted to make the paint. As some have mentioned food colouring colouring may work but the best solution would be to get actual paint pigments so that you are starting from concentrated colour.
Great video as always Richard, love the hillside rising below and above the railway. I'm looking forward to seeing your process for painting your tunnels in the near future. Keep up the good work as always James
Nice video Richard. The scenery has progressed nicely. I like the idea of adding the paint to the sculptamold whilst the colour wasn't as dark it was still worth a try anyways. - Nicholas.
Wonderful to watch as I am just a little behind in my layout so get to learn loads from you as you progress. Your layout is really taking shape now and going to look amazing. Nice one.
Mix the paint with water first, and then add the sculptor mold. it work better and needs less time to mix. The drying time is a bit longer but it works and yes it is less notable when it chips.
After watching EP15 my partner and I have decided to pick up a hobby i used to do as a kid. Thank you for inspiring us to do something different with the scenery. Loving the content. Andy
🇺🇦 Hi Richard. Lovely job of the tunnel mouth. I seem to get through a lot of brown paint. Get the cheap one from hobby craft. Humidity is high at the moment, it's a pain but hey this is the UK. Great vlog buddy. Did sort of shake your hands at GETS, think you were talked out. Stay safe. DELPH JUNCTION (Pete)
Back in the day, before they'd invented Sculptamold, when I used plaster of paris for the same thing, I got powder paint/pigment from the local art shop (think it came by weight) which did a better job of colouring the plaster all the way through than your poster paints seemed to do. Might not work as well with Sculptamold as, like you said, with all the fibres in it, there's a massive overall surface area in it.
I am looking forward to getting my hands mucky. I am going to make my own coving using egg boxes and Plaster of Paris. I hope we are coming to the end of the Rainy Season, it will turn a bit cooler. 12 to 14 degrees. martin. (Thailand)
Hello Richard. The genre of some of the background music makes me think you like american country music! Am I right? I have a suggestion for the right hand side of the tunnel portal, is to put a brick section on the end block, where the space in the wood is, and just leave the sculptamould section visible. The section in front of that sculptamould could be used as a storage area by permanent way staff, and you can have an access gate, at the end of the sculptamould. I'm thinking of how it's done at Felling, on the Tyne and Wear Metro, although there it's a retaining wall, but similar to what I'm thinking for New Junction.
Thanks for your videos - some very helpful tips emerging from your own experience. I wonder about the clearances of your Mark 3 stock with the tunnel mouths - thy do look very tight
Cheap paints don't have much pigment in them. I find the dry pigments that are available give a decent result without using too much of them. Otherwise, just add more black/dark brown paint rather than the colour you are hoping to achieve so that it offsets the pale sculptamold.
Really starting to come together - its going to look a lot better than mine! A tip for scenery (regarding ballast) , i use Pets At Home Calci sand, if gives a good fresh ballast colour, value is excellent and particle size is fantastic too. Also; i dont know of you saw my comment on the previous video woth an idea for the road, but i think that could look quite good. Either way, an excellent video as always!
I would double-check your tunnel clearance with a Mk4 coach as i believe they have a longer distance between bogie pivots. (Don't know about the length of Mk5 coach or an IET coach, but you should check with the longest vehicle)
I find this totally amazing the work ALL model railway enthusiasts do. But I have NEVER understood why the manufacturers make the rails CROMB INSTEAD OF RUST LOOKING. As I have NEVER seen cromb rails in the real world... Anyway! TOTAL ADMIRATION AND RESPECT TO ALL RAILWAY MODEL ENTHUSIASTS. 😉
Just when you thought you could have a rest! 😉 Nice spooky beginning: first layout poltergeist I’ve ever seen 😂 👻 Then again, technically, doesn’t that mean that you DID actually have a train running in the video? 🤔 I must admit when I woke up this morning I had no idea I would hear the phrase “I’ve mixed up a brown wash to go over the pink sausage meat” today, but it certainly raised an eyebrow or in this household followed by extremely childish giggling 🤣😂😅 But a job is worth doing right and I think it will do the job for you 👍 Funnily enough, one of the things I like most about that tunnel mouth in that space is that it looks as though one was built first and the other was built several years later as the traffic grew which is very much realistic and rarely modelled thus! 👏 Just a little hint I found useful which you might not have thought of: for holding things in place temporarily, get some half-decent double sided tape so stuff sits where you want it. But only half-decent because you want to be able to remove the tape afterwards! Alternatively just mark the edge with a Sharpie 🤓 I’ll give that as repayment for the heads up on the little orange gizmos which might be the answer to not stabbing and crushing my fingertips in future😉 By the way, I can’t believe you deprived the Boss a walk because of an insy spot of rain or two! She looked so plaintiff, but then she is an adorable pooch! 🐕 Cheers Richard, have a great weekend mon ami! 🍻🍀👍☮️
I’m with you on not bothering with adding paint, as apart from it using up a lot of paint, the more you add to make it darker, the longer the drying time. 🤷🏻♂️
ive 4 bags of sculptamold my mate used it on his wartable and no heating or temp control it went blue mold as paper n plaster can breed it so i made my sculptastyrene paster of paris and polystyrene bals came out rock hard and zero weight practicaly...
Be cautious about the temperature of the water you use for your plaster bandages. Plaster setting is an exothermic reaction, not just a case of drying, so the warmer the water, the faster it sets! (I work in A&E and use plaster on a daily basis!)
I mentioned paint in sculptamould to Charlie Chadwick, he was not impressed! You need to use cheap school acrylic, as it needs to be almost the replacement for water or far better, get a paint or clothes dye, works much better.
You're making great progress Richard , I have a Base Board(s) for sale and some Misc Bits inc Cork and a Polystyrene Block and track pins etc , If you need more ?
Hello, is there a reason why you use sculptamould as a thin coat instead of something like plaster of Paris, which is readily available, will dry almost instantly and do the same job? All the best Anthony.
Have you thought about using food colourings and mixing with the sculpt mold, must be cheaper than paint. Don't be tempted to lick your fingers whilst mixing it through 😂
How did you finish the inside of the tunnels? Or what are your plans? I have two separate tunnels on my layout and am wondering how to finish the inside of the entrances so they look right when looking into the tunnel mouth.
Paint the surface before the sculptamold dries, let’s it into just the top millimetres or so. Love sculptamold but impossible to get and going for silly money now. Experimenting mixing fine sawdust with plaster and want to try soaking loo roll until it breaks up before adding the plaster. Be careful using loo roll in a blender dry. Without the water to take heat away many have melted the plastic parts and ruined there blenders.
I guess the sculptor mood stuff will all be done now me being 6 month behind but instead of putting in paint to change the colour would food colouring work in the water? 🤔
A bit puzzled as this is an ECML inspired line why you haven't added some sort of overhead rail/bar or similar for the o/h pantographs to rub on inside the tunnels? Will you be running all your electrics pan down?
The viaduct looks good too and the retaining walls. Phil says he has now 5 years work on the books including more orders for key model world.@@NewJunction
Hi Richard, love you videos and have subscribed to your channel but could you do away with the music whilst you are actually talking, I find it distracting and very annoying. Obviously keep it for time elapsed sequences. Love seeing how the layout is coming along.
If you have not already got one, consider a dehumidifier because it will reduce the moisture in the air which will help dry the build and also keep the room damp free plus reduce the need for heating in the room - I use a Maeco one and it is amazing the difference it makes without needing to crank up the heating to remove that damp feeling
Grrat information 👍🏻
I second the suggestion - the Maeco Dehumidifiers are superb and using one regularly would definitely reduce drying times
And and washing on clothes airers in the same room dries quick too. Less mould in the bathroom as well. We have two.
I love plaster bandage… takes me right back to railway modelmaking with my Dad back in the 70’s 😊
Captivating. Thanks for sharing and well done on the progress. Thanks for sharing your exploits and very inspirational for a new model railway builder like me.
with that small section in front of the tunnel portals that you said about not putting anything in cause of having to move the portals; if you constantly have to move the portals cause of layout transformation, you could always make a small section of the hill for there, attach 2 dowel rods to the bottom and drill 2 holes so that you can remove it at anytime. i would recommend a small built up area on layout part that you can decorate with like a bush to hide any imperfection that is caused from the removable piece. always enjoy watching the videos and seeing the progress you make!
Amazing layout Richard. Something I saw on another channel that very few seem to know is rubbing the plaster cloth once laid smooths out and removes all the weave! This gives a smooth, undulating finished surface and therefore no real need for all that sculptamold. 👍
I'm happy to see that model railroading is enjoyed world wide.
Great update mate. I leave a minimum of 5 days drying for the sculpture mould...or 10 days if you livve in Cornwall like me lol
I use the black and decker dehumidifier where I store my collection just to be on the safe side my flat is dry but still have to empty it out every 10 days it will help mate ,the layout is going to be awesome I hope you do a 3D model of lulu to go on there running through the fields bless her a big woof to lulu a virtual handshake from me bud and all the best to you and family
Mark 😊😊🐕🦺🫱🏼🫲🏼
Looking great. Glad you're eventually getting lines 3 and 4 finished on the mainline.
Your progress with New Garden Junction and New New Junction have been a great inspiration to my building initially of the 7mm setup in my parents' back garden (which will be stripped out when I go up for christmas, so I can reuse the track for my 7mm loft layout) and of the TT:120 layout ("Birdforth") that I'm currently working on (almost finished laying and wiring the track, so not too long until I need to erect backscenes and think about what exactly do I want as scenery).
I said I'd watch this tonight...
Can I suggest adding the paint with the warm water when dipping the splaster cloth. I found the water absorbs the colour and it hiddes the white. Thus add the colòur to scupture mold with pva will bond the colour better. Just a suggestion.great layout.
Superb how to and information on new items...looking great...
Jim
Nice work Richard and some good progress. Looking forward to your next video. All the best. Mark.
Hi Richard, All that plastering and painting with the coaches sitting there in splatter distance was giving me palpitations lol. It looks really good though and I agree, it's probably alot cheaper and easier to just repair any chips (if they occur). The rail joiner mate are really useful, I got a set myself and as saved me from abit of cursing whilst working on the fiddleyard :) Cheers, Michael
Great video nice to see lulu as well.the layout is coming along nicely now thanks for the update
I use a simple heater with a thermostat in my shed to keep warm and speed up drying.
Richard I can't believe your waiting for material from USA to complete and then waiting for time to dry. Try using the polly filler you used for your roads, dob it on and then paint it over bandage material with 2"/3" really wet paint brush. You will have a hard shell as soon as it drys and it will dry really fast. Faster and way cheaper.
A great job Richard!!! Well done! Cheers Onno.
Great to see this layout progressing nicely! Although I enjoy the updates on Patreon, I do love a detailed video on here
Was good to briefly see you at GETS! Great progress … lovely to see LuLu again … and I like the cheeky sneaky product placement of the Accurascale Nova box under the layout! 😜 One tip … maybe worthwhile investing in a dehumidifier? They really help reduce damp, stabilises items such as card kits and MDF etc, but also can help reduce drying times! Very useful especially during this time of year 👍
Since most damage to scenery on a portable layout occurs at the interfaces and board edges. Plywood profiles of the desired scenery shape would add protection and also make hot wire sculpting easier with a profile to draw the wire along.
You give me inspiration Richard. Im about to start track laying on my garage build but seeing how you have cracked on gives me the confidence to do the same! Just hope it turns out even half as good!
That's a lot of meatloaf you've got there Richard!
The warmer the water the quicker the plaster bandage will cure. I know this more as i used to be an orthopaedic technician in the hospitals doing plaster on broken arms and legs, So do have a bit of expriance with it. Best job i ever had to be honest.
You should put in a space heater in your train room for the layout and the shop supervisor
Looking good! The land form looks entirely natural with the railway cutting through. Too many layouts look like the railway came first with the landscape being built up around it. I agree with you about the paint / Sculptamold - but I’ll probably try it for myself on my next layout now that I know about it. Great video.
Great work, Richard. Sadly, whoever told you to dye the sculptamold forgot to tell you to go a much darker hue/shade, because the putty itself will lighten it. You definitely do use a lot more paint, because you are technically painting every cubic millimeter, and not just the surface. It has its benefits (no touch up repairs on chips, less work on rock facings when doing them) and drawbacks (cost). So, it was cool to see you try it and give it a bash! Cheers
Excellent progress, the 4 way tunnel is going to be a very photogenic position..
Thanks for the video... all your (and Lulu's) hard work is really showing... tunnel entrance looks great...
👍🙂🇳🇿
Check your clearances, I originally did mine with mk3s many years ago, since then class 170s, class 153s and particularly the Azuma have given me some nasty surprises!
Whilst I no longer model UK railways or OO gauge I am really enjoying this series and looking forward to future instalments.
The trouble with adding paint to filler/sculptamould etc is that it's already diluted to make the paint. As some have mentioned food colouring colouring may work but the best solution would be to get actual paint pigments so that you are starting from concentrated colour.
Great video as always Richard, love the hillside rising below and above the railway. I'm looking forward to seeing your process for painting your tunnels in the near future. Keep up the good work as always
James
Nice video Richard. The scenery has progressed nicely. I like the idea of adding the paint to the sculptamold whilst the colour wasn't as dark it was still worth a try anyways. - Nicholas.
Wonderful to watch as I am just a little behind in my layout so get to learn loads from you as you progress. Your layout is really taking shape now and going to look amazing. Nice one.
Mix the paint with water first, and then add the sculptor mold. it work better and needs less time to mix. The drying time is a bit longer but it works and yes it is less notable when it chips.
After watching EP15 my partner and I have decided to pick up a hobby i used to do as a kid. Thank you for inspiring us to do something different with the scenery. Loving the content. Andy
🇺🇦
Hi Richard.
Lovely job of the tunnel mouth. I seem to get through a lot of brown paint. Get the cheap one from hobby craft.
Humidity is high at the moment, it's a pain but hey this is the UK.
Great vlog buddy.
Did sort of shake your hands at GETS, think you were talked out.
Stay safe.
DELPH JUNCTION (Pete)
It is really starting to look like Hadley wood Richard, great stuff.
Back in the day, before they'd invented Sculptamold, when I used plaster of paris for the same thing, I got powder paint/pigment from the local art shop (think it came by weight) which did a better job of colouring the plaster all the way through than your poster paints seemed to do. Might not work as well with Sculptamold as, like you said, with all the fibres in it, there's a massive overall surface area in it.
More great progress on the OO gauge layout here Richard, keep up the great work.
looks good like how it all go keep up the good work keep up the good work on the layout good to see lowler in the vid nice track plane thanks lee
All looking amazing Richard, coming together very nicely 👍💜✌️😊
Brilliant update Richard inspired me to rip mine out and start again go for somethink similar with lower branch and higher main
looking great mate
I am looking forward to getting my hands mucky. I am going to make my own coving using egg boxes and Plaster of Paris. I hope we are coming to the end of the Rainy Season, it will turn a bit cooler. 12 to 14 degrees. martin. (Thailand)
Hello Richard. The genre of some of the background music makes me think you like american country music! Am I right? I have a suggestion for the right hand side of the tunnel portal, is to put a brick section on the end block, where the space in the wood is, and just leave the sculptamould section visible. The section in front of that sculptamould could be used as a storage area by permanent way staff, and you can have an access gate, at the end of the sculptamould. I'm thinking of how it's done at Felling, on the Tyne and Wear Metro, although there it's a retaining wall, but similar to what I'm thinking for New Junction.
Thanks for your videos - some very helpful tips emerging from your own experience. I wonder about the clearances of your Mark 3 stock with the tunnel mouths - thy do look very tight
I love these videos as it’s giving me plenty of ideas for a wcml based layout I’m planning!
Cheap paints don't have much pigment in them. I find the dry pigments that are available give a decent result without using too much of them.
Otherwise, just add more black/dark brown paint rather than the colour you are hoping to achieve so that it offsets the pale sculptamold.
Really starting to come together - its going to look a lot better than mine! A tip for scenery (regarding ballast) , i use Pets At Home Calci sand, if gives a good fresh ballast colour, value is excellent and particle size is fantastic too. Also; i dont know of you saw my comment on the previous video woth an idea for the road, but i think that could look quite good. Either way, an excellent video as always!
I would double-check your tunnel clearance with a Mk4 coach as i believe they have a longer distance between bogie pivots.
(Don't know about the length of Mk5 coach or an IET coach, but you should check with the longest vehicle)
Great to chat at GETS and love seeing the progress you‘re making
Nice update, really enjoying seeing how things are progressing 👍
I find this totally amazing the work ALL model railway enthusiasts do. But I have NEVER understood why the manufacturers make the rails CROMB INSTEAD OF RUST LOOKING. As I have NEVER seen cromb rails in the real world... Anyway! TOTAL ADMIRATION AND RESPECT TO ALL RAILWAY MODEL ENTHUSIASTS. 😉
Just when you thought you could have a rest! 😉 Nice spooky beginning: first layout poltergeist I’ve ever seen 😂 👻 Then again, technically, doesn’t that mean that you DID actually have a train running in the video? 🤔
I must admit when I woke up this morning I had no idea I would hear the phrase “I’ve mixed up a brown wash to go over the pink sausage meat” today, but it certainly raised an eyebrow or in this household followed by extremely childish giggling 🤣😂😅 But a job is worth doing right and I think it will do the job for you 👍
Funnily enough, one of the things I like most about that tunnel mouth in that space is that it looks as though one was built first and the other was built several years later as the traffic grew which is very much realistic and rarely modelled thus! 👏 Just a little hint I found useful which you might not have thought of: for holding things in place temporarily, get some half-decent double sided tape so stuff sits where you want it. But only half-decent because you want to be able to remove the tape afterwards! Alternatively just mark the edge with a Sharpie 🤓 I’ll give that as repayment for the heads up on the little orange gizmos which might be the answer to not stabbing and crushing my fingertips in future😉
By the way, I can’t believe you deprived the Boss a walk because of an insy spot of rain or two! She looked so plaintiff, but then she is an adorable pooch! 🐕
Cheers Richard, have a great weekend mon ami! 🍻🍀👍☮️
Wow Richard, you've certainly progressed, looking forward to seeing further results 😊
I’m with you on not bothering with adding paint, as apart from it using up a lot of paint, the more you add to make it darker, the longer the drying time. 🤷🏻♂️
Layout looking great
You could use Gyproc EasiFill 60 readily available dries quickly and easy to sand. Top tip
It’s silly cheap too! Huge bag at B&Q about £10-12
ive 4 bags of sculptamold my mate used it on his wartable and no heating or temp control it went blue mold as paper n plaster can breed it so i made my sculptastyrene paster of paris and polystyrene bals came out rock hard and zero weight practicaly...
Be cautious about the temperature of the water you use for your plaster bandages. Plaster setting is an exothermic reaction, not just a case of drying, so the warmer the water, the faster it sets! (I work in A&E and use plaster on a daily basis!)
You were at Great Eastern in Norwich the other day, would have popped in to meet a celebrity if I'd have known! 😊
That might have been my stunt double! 😳
I mentioned paint in sculptamould to Charlie Chadwick, he was not impressed! You need to use cheap school acrylic, as it needs to be almost the replacement for water or far better, get a paint or clothes dye, works much better.
You're making great progress Richard , I have a Base Board(s) for sale and some Misc Bits inc Cork and a Polystyrene Block and track pins etc , If you need more ?
I’d try the azuma coaches through the tunnels too…think they are longer than mk3’s.
Great video Richard
Hello, is there a reason why you use sculptamould as a thin coat instead of something like plaster of Paris, which is readily available, will dry almost instantly and do the same job? All the best Anthony.
Great job
Nice one , keep up the good work
Have you thought about using food colourings and mixing with the sculpt mold, must be cheaper than paint. Don't be tempted to lick your fingers whilst mixing it through 😂
Very nice, can't wait to see the end result!
Hi Richard. Wot - no "thank you" for the Sculptamold? OK, spoke too soon. Hmmm...those portals look a little tight! OK, prototypical?
Always best to watch it all 😆
What do you use for your underlay for your tracks to sit on?
How did you finish the inside of the tunnels? Or what are your plans? I have two separate tunnels on my layout and am wondering how to finish the inside of the entrances so they look right when looking into the tunnel mouth.
Such a shame TransPennine are withdrawing the Nova 3s. The 68s and Mk 5As are so unique.
Paint the surface before the sculptamold dries, let’s it into just the top millimetres or so.
Love sculptamold but impossible to get and going for silly money now. Experimenting mixing fine sawdust with plaster and want to try soaking loo roll until it breaks up before adding the plaster.
Be careful using loo roll in a blender dry. Without the water to take heat away many have melted the plastic parts and ruined there blenders.
Do you use wood glue to stick the polystyrene down?
I guess the sculptor mood stuff will all be done now me being 6 month behind but instead of putting in paint to change the colour would food colouring work in the water? 🤔
Worth experimenting with for sure.
have you tried filler but do not use water replace the water with PVA & Paint i fine it has a bit of flex so dose not crack
Ah a soggy spanner, I currently have two damp nutters slowly drying at my feet. Anyway, is that PVA that you use to glue the styrene?
I know it is chucking filly outside, but how is the outdoor layout coming on.
A bit puzzled as this is an ECML inspired line why you haven't added some sort of overhead rail/bar or similar for the o/h pantographs to rub on inside the tunnels? Will you be running all your electrics pan down?
Not got round to it yet 😁
@@NewJunction was thinking as you glued the poly blocks down that you might need to lift them later to get the o/h underneath.
Smooth....
love the layout. great work.
Hi nice video. I'm planning a layout but need some custom built tunnel mouths. Just wondering where you got yours from thanks.
You can buy my tunnels as doubles from the Key Model World shop
Cheers
Good stuff Richard.
I must say you were very brave using all that plaster mould & paint without covering up your track……
All water based, comes off as easily as it goes down 😊
Hi there. Is this one of Phils laser tunnels we saw at MKeynes.
Yes, made for New Junction and turned into a single portal for them 😊
The viaduct looks good too and the retaining walls. Phil says he has now 5 years work on the books including more orders for key model world.@@NewJunction
Could you come round and help with my tunnels please
I use finishing plaster much easier
Still haven’t got your lines covered up ?? You really should.. anyway looking good..
Hi Richard, love you videos and have subscribed to your channel but could you do away with the music whilst you are actually talking, I find it distracting and very annoying. Obviously keep it for time elapsed sequences. Love seeing how the layout is coming along.
Hi instead of using sculpt a mould from America give geek gaming a ring Luke has there own version and uk based
Turning off, music's ridiculous, young people won't want to here this
Plenty of other channels for you to enjoy 😊