How To Use Winding Sticks (MUST SEE)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2020
- How To Use Winding Sticks. In this video Rob shows you how to test your board for flatness using winding sticks and the edge of your hand plane and how to correct any errors you find. This is a follow-up video to Hand Planing Wood - Flat, Smooth, and Polished.
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* WINDING STICKS: robcosman.com/collections/lay...
* MAGIC PLANE WAX: robcosman.com/collections/pla...
* HOW TO SHARPEN YOUR PLANE BLADE: • Sharpening A Plane Bla...
* HAND PLANING WOOD FLAT, SMOOTH, AND POLISHED: • Hand Planing Wood - F...
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the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Yes, though typically only noticeable in its width.
I am not certain I have ever commented on anyone's videos before but I truly appreciate the work you do and your videos. I own a small business in Alberta, Canada and my stress is at an all time high. I look forward to your new videos, they help me get through the day. Please continue the great work that you do.
What a great sound a sharp blade makes. Nice demo Rob.
Finally understand how to use winding sticks! Great job
Your newer format is really good. For what its worth, I used to do a fair bit of vocational training and how you are structuring your video format and your presentation is spot on what I was trained to do when training mechanics. Alert them to what you are going to tell them so they know what to look for. Then tell them/ show them what they need to know and then tick off the key points for them to remember.
Thanks. Thats a great way to think about it. I am going to formalize that into our process. Thanks tons
@@RobCosmanWoodworking If that helps you then I am very pleased. You have taught me so much. I feel indebted and if this goes in any way to repaying you for the skills, knowledge and most importantly the attitude you have imparted to me then I sincerely hope this helps.
This is amazing, some the most valuable information I've ever seen about woodworking, thanks soooo much!!!
Just when I thought I couldn't learn more about winding sticks you come with another illumination. Thank you Rob!
Always glad to add to the knowledge of the universe!!!!!😉
WOW great camera work on the winding sticks view thank you have a good day.
Great instructional video. I've been looking for sth that actually explains the entirety of hand plaining for such a long time, thanks!
Your last video and this one combined are a priceless lesson for me to slow down and feel the wood . You told me to remember it took the tree 150 years to grow . I have a hard time reading the grain of wood maybe a video on that would held a lot of us beginners out . Thanks again for all your hard work!!!
Good video idea. I will have COL Luther add it to the list
Keep up the great work Rob; much appreciated.
Thanks. Make sure you sign up for our free monthly newsletter. Link is in the video description
Love the idea of center markings and corner marking on one, with holly . Really makes it clear. I have access to Hornbeam and to European Boxwood, should do fine. Mahogany as the main stick should be ok. I have read about this technique in woodwork magazine many times but seeing it is very inspirational, Thanks, Bo Nilsson Sweden
Thx for posting, a splendid tutorial. Accuracy and its result is demonstrated again
The video is very useful as it shows not only how to use the sticks, but how to correct a defect without undoing the previous work. And for that is perfect. Still over 20 minutes to dress a single face of a short board, that was already in pretty good shape, is way too much.
In my place, a little village in the European Alps, the old woodworkers that used hand tools was actually faster then the first ones using machines, they was able to produce a door in a day, while with machines it took 1 and half day. Obviously if you have to produce 5 doors the one that is using machines wins by far as probably can do it in 2 days instead of 5, so at now everybody uses machines if working professionally, but it gives an idea of how working with hand tools only can be fast and efficient, as long as you master the art.
It has to be told that, depending on the particular piece you are working, a little less then perfect is perfectly acceptable, even if you get completely rid of any twist and other defects after few days as the humidity changes they will show again, only experience can teach when you have reached enough approximation to the perfection for that particular piece, depending on its function, and when working more on it is just time consuming over killing.
In this respect the video can be misleading for beginners, that can think that is ok to spend 20 minutes to dress the face of every single board.
I think that a video about that, about how the needed level of perfection vary depending on the use and function of the piece you are working at, about how some imperfections can have a chain effect and cause a lot of very time consuming problems after, while other ones are perfectly acceptable and don't cause any problem, could be very useful for your beginner followers. Only experience can really teach it, but as you have a lot of experience you point of view on the matter can be really enlightening.
Ciao form Italy.
Wow. I was struggeling how to get pain surface to a board with hand tools. Thank you very much for explaining how the ancient masters did this. Awesome.
Thanks Rob for the excellent video! Very useful!
Appreciate your comment. Thanks for watching
Many thanks Rob for your expertise and high level of sharing
I’m a French learner and I’m enjoying a lot your methods
What a great video... ironically just the other day I was thinking about winding sticks. I remember my shops teacher showing me how to use them some 30 years ago... and I'm about to embark on a project where I will not be able to use a jointer or drum sander this was a perfect refresher and I'm now excited to get to work on this project.
I knew you needed a little re-fresher, so I made this video!!!!!!!!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking
So... would that make you
Psychic or psychotic,
I always get those two confused. LOL
starting into no electric joinery. this gives definitely adds confidence.
Thanks for the lesson. I always appreciate your videos, and your tools are world class. I bought the winding sticks and they are awesome!!
Thanks for your purchase. So did you learn anything you didn't already know about using your winding sticks on this video?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I used to think it was just about showing the unevenness in a board, then you would just shave a bit off the high side. But clearly it's a lot more than that.. Remove the center hump before you start, plane the center of the board first, check side-to-side and mark up the board with a dry-erase marker.. Yep, I'd say I learned a ton!
These are a fantastic series of videos. They are going to be my best ongoing reference points to improve my skills for years to come. Keep them coming.
We are. This series will continue through squaring all edges and getting the opposite face parallel.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking That sounds great!
great demo!
Thanks again, Rob. The process is what's important to get the desired results. Excellent teaching.
Thanks for watching. What video should we make next?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking How to make accurate winding sticks when you don't have any to check you materials you're making them from. (Maybe including a bit on stabilizing the wood?)
@@RobCosmanWoodworking a detailed video on how to make your dowel maker jig
The grain on that board looks like a nightmare scenario with all the end grain running to the surface. Kudos for using this as an example!
Great video Rob thanks
Glad you liked it. Don't forget to sign up for our free monthly newsletter. The link is in the video description
Great video Rob. I just finished making my own winding sticks. It was a fun learning experience.
Good job. Did you check the reference surface for flat?
Yes I did, I think I got it as good as I can, however the humidity in the building is changing now so hopefully it won't be too wacky, I think I'll have to look into getting some torrified wood.
I didnt imagine learning this much on one site. Thank you.
So glad we surprised you. Keep watching, more excellent content is on the way
You should watch the rest of his videos, I've been woodworking for 10 years and started watching rob's videos about a year ago and what I learned has put my work and the way I work on another level.
He's a great teacher
What intrigues me is that hand tool woodworking was perfected about 300 years ago but still exists in a modern age of electrical machinery. Its good many keep the art alive but i wonder what those craftsmen of centuries ago could do with modern hand tools?
Thanks rob!!
I have learned a lot watching your videos, I'm just hoping I can put what I've learned into practice if I ever get my shop up and going.
I wouldn't have realized that you are wearing the new shirt design if I hadn't seen the back. Now I just need to make a decision on which shirt I want.
Tough decision!!! I personally like the new OD green T-shirt the best. Thanks fir the kind comments. Appreciate you watching our videos
Great video! Thanks!
Glad you found it helpful. Make sure you sign up for our free monthly newsletter. There is a link in the video description
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Funny. I subscribe to your online workshops, monthly newsletter, contribute to PHP, and by your products. I rarely miss any of your videos. I'm pretty much hooked on all things RC!
Crazy amount of work, I don't have that kind of time or patience, thank for the video 🙏
Thats how it all use to be done. If you work hybrid (power and hand tools) then joint a face with your jointer, then plane the opposite face with your planer, then joint the edges on your jointer. Use hand tools for the final finish and check for flat with winding sticks
I thought so too. My framing square doesn't absorb water either and has always been sufficient, but I'm in carpentry, not woodworking. For sighting, I just put a light behind the square and shave until no light comes through. Very accurate. 🔦🤠
Past my bedtime but I'm staying up for another great Cosman video.
Whats more important - sleep or learning to use winding sticks? The answer is obvious! Thanks for watching
You’re my man !
Thank you.
Wow.. Thank you for the video. That looks like so much work to get that board flat. I'm really glad that I have access to a power planer. I just made a cutting board and it is so flat that it sticks to the granite counter top. I know the wood has to be flat to build anything, but I much prefer the building something to getting ready to build something.
And now you know why power planers and jointers were invented.
I finally had to regrind my plane blade, "80Grt CBN wheel" and put a fresh edge on it.... WOW what a difference in such short time to cleanly take end grain from Western Australian Jarrah with ease..
Excellent thanks you
Glad you liked it, please keep watching. What video should we make next?
Staining and finishing without spray equipment would be a good video.
I have found that painting a whole band of contrasting color on the stick that goes at the back (instead of just the corners) helps to see minute defects even more clearly, even with my middling eyesight: when I move my line of sight up and down, a slither of the contrasting color appears to zip across the top edge of the sticks from left to right or vice versa, depending on the twist. This is similar to when you feel like something moves fast in your peripheral vision when it's actually two linear features overlapping at a very shallow angle, combined with imperceptible motion of the head.
And it works even with blurry vision, for instance when the front and rear sticks can't both be in focus.
HI rob I always wanted to c how the winding sticks worked thank u.
Thats why i made the video. Appreciate you taking the time to watch it
Haha! “We’ll leave a description in the link below” I make the same grammatical error all the time. Another great video Rob and crew. A set of winding sticks are my Christmas list!
Don't you mean your list Christmas????
RobCosman.com 🤣🤣🤣 yes. Right you’re.
I went and looked and they are way above my family's budget for Christmas gifts for anyone above the age of 13-15 years of age. I'm sure they are great winding sticks, but at around $200 with S&H, that is out of my budget as well. Maybe I can squeeze a lottery ticket into the budget somewhere inplace of a bologna sandwhich and a baggie of chips (or 2-3 brown bag type lunches). Dang, being disabled and unemployed stinks. [Family shortage due to large family, we aren't all all disabled and broke, vut when there are dozens of people to buy for, the budget for each drops to enable better presents for the young ones.]
Great video! Lots of good info. I've always had trouble sighting from side to side on the winding sticks. Have you ever used a level? Put the board on the bench, put the level on it, note where the bubble is in the tube. Check on the other end. If the bubble is in the same place, then wouldn't the board be flat? Or would a level be less precise than the sticks?
much less precise, you have to judge where the bubble is in relation to the lines on the vial. We show students how they can spot a few thousands of an inch with the sticks.
I am delighted with your method of teaching. While the title was “Winding Sticks”, you spent more time removing the imperfection. The latter is so important.
Thanks. Thats why i like finishing with a plane, i can get the wood perfect
I would end up with a board a sixteenth thick.😂
Hey Rob, first of great videos and valuable lessons. This might be a question that can’t be answered but how much thickness did you take away from your original board to get it flat. I’m asking this because a lot of folks buy 1 by and they need 3/4 for their project. So if they are going through this process they might need 5/4 or rough lumber so they can get down to the nominal dimensions. What are your thoughts? .
Brilliant vid Rob. Could you tell us about how you would make winding sticks without a set of winding sticks. Or even better, make a video 😉. Thanks Rob
I'll second that request.
+1 to this! A video on making winding sticks would be nice!
You have to do it now Rob, it's 3 vs 1 🤣
Actually I have already done that video. Its in the "Hand Tool Library" of my online workshop. We currently have a free one month trial membership going on. The free one month code is in the description section of this video. Use the code, open a membership, and go watch how to make the winding sticks. Its a 5 or 6 videos about 30 minutes each.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks. 2.5 to 3 hours worth of videos to make winding sticks? Must be more complicated than I was thinking. Does the free month automatically convert to a paid membership if I forget to cancel? (In other words, do I need a credit card to sign up?)
Thanks
I guess I'm not ready to take my woodworking to the next level. Good to keep in the back of my head for the day I may need it.
Its actually a lot easier and faster than it looks once you learn how to do it
Thanks. Small bites, small chances to introduce errors, small needed repairs for us beginners. Got it. Additionally, the small bites get us toward the wanted outcome, hopefully without going past where we want to be, but if we do go past, it isn't far, and again, small repairs.
Question:
How do you personally determine when you can "live with it"? Is it when the thickness is at a point where a joint is just at the fitting point, or just past and glue can still fill the gap with minimal showing of the gap?
Because, we could all keep going trying to get that perfectly flat surface, but at some point the board could conceivably become too thin for its intended use.
Thanks,
Thomas
You got it. In this video When i said I can live with that I was talking about reading what the winding stick was telling me reference a hump in the middle of the board. Go back and look at that piece and you will see that the pivot point of the winding stick was no longer in the middle but was moved near the edge of the board, where i want it to be. It was not right on the edge but near the edge and I could live with that
I use a straight edge and a flashlight.Works perfect for me
What's the mic you're using? Not seen one like it before. Great video btw
Plane tracks? Let's see, I've heard of train tracks...I've even heard of twain twacks, & wabbit twacks but plane tracks are a new one. LOL
Great technique. I wonder if you might be doing a video about a laminated top and how to make sure the grain is running on all same direction and flattening it.
Good idea. I will have COL Luther put it a
On the list. The short answer is plane each piece first to figure out which way the grain is running then orient all pieces in the same direction when you glue up
@@RobCosmanWoodworking That's what I did, but I guess when I marked them first and planed them after, I lost track of what goes where. haha. BTW I talked to the Col, I'm waiting for the board to make a decision about my application for the next scholarship :). Hope I get it ...
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Just made a laminated workbench top and had the problem of one piece with the grain running opposite - frustrating! Great videos: your attention to detail/accuracy is inspiring and your explanations/teaching style excellent. Thanks to your videos, I now have a better understanding of how to use a plane. One example - where you plane the same area until there are no more shavings, and show the sole of the plane to explain why that occurs. I now have to go back and retry flattening my workbench top! Gives me something to do while on furlough in the UK!
Hi Rob, please tell whoever is responsible to never put "must see" and definitely DON'T USE CAPITAL LETTERS in the description, it's very spammy and cheap. A simple "How To Use Winding Sticks" would have been 100% ok. It's a good video by the way very informative it got a thumbs up from me.
Interesting what you will be making with this flat board...
Well its just the board I am using to demonstrate how to six square a board in these videos. But it could be used for just about any project
Why do you always clear the shaving
Rob, in the previous video you were making the board lay flat on the bench. Are you working that same face in this video or is it the opposite side in this video? If its the opposite side, do you go back and smooth the initial face later in the same manner?
Hey im new to hand woodworking and i am curious how do I predict how much meterial i will shave of of work piece to adjust for the thickness i need. Best regards
Your comment about a plane usually leaving a hump intrigued me. Is this because the contact surface of the plane is shorter at the beginning and the end? If so, would this be eliminated by using a longer jointer plane? Love the channel!
Hi Frank. The general rule is the longer the plane the flatter the surface, but every plane even a number 8 will induce a hump in a board if you plane it long enough. Its just the physics of a plane. Its like wood moves, you cannot do anything about it, you just have to manage it. From a physics perspective my guess is it has something to do with the sole being on the same plane (front and back) but the blade projects below that.
Dear Rob.
And a wide shield to align in the same way?
I started to level the big shield and I still can't...
Do I need to cut across the grain of the wood?
Many thanks in advance for your reply! :)
And take care of yourself there. :)
Great video !! Thanks . Do you put any finish to the winding sticks ?
Yes I do! Before we began using torrified wood i would soak overnight in tung oil finish. No w that we use torrified wood we lightly spray with lacquer.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking
What is "torrified" wood?
@@thomasarussellsr It's wood that has been through a quickened ageing process, usually with heat treatment of sorts. It removes the cellulose (I think!) from the wood, resulting in a wood that isn't affected by seasonal movement (as much). I think it's more brittle too, so it's not the holy grail of wood for furniture making, but perfect for things like winding sticks. I think the Scandinavians use it in building perhaps?
Does the wax on the bottom of the plane create staining problems later?
I would like to know how you make one side parallel with the other using hand tools
Great video (as always!) - QUESTION: how do you know that you have not taken too much out of the middle and instead of a bump you have a dip?
You would check with your plane or straight edge if there is light or a gap showing in the middle. If so, you have created a dip in the board. Once you get to a point where there is no gap or light shining through, you have achieved your goal. The key, as Rob and others have mentioned is to take small bites and keep checking your progress constantly.
Ditto what Juan says
I’ve seen a different approach where first you plane only the ends of the board across the grain; this should get rid of the bump/dip. Then using the winding sticks you can get the rest of the board flat.
How/can you apply this to longer narrower stock? Something the size of a 2x4 but say 6” long.
What is the purpose of planing to the right and left after taking a pass down the middle? Will that not keep the hump in the middle?
Any idea when you will have these available again?
I was wondering if laser beam can be used along with winding sticks.
I think you might get better results if when approaching the right side of the piece you skew the plane to the right so you get more sole support? You consistently skew the plane to the left so when you get to the right side, you lose support. Something to consider?
I do that sometimes
All very good, but time is money, as long as the client can afford this level of accuracy!
That's why we invest in machinery...
A machine would achieve this in a fraction of the time it took you to do it...
I haven't used winding strips for 40 yrs ... lol
Frank...
PS. I still appreciate the skill involved though...
Frank James it is about what you must comprehend what your machine will perform for you. It's basic and does not mean that it still has to be done like that.
Very interesting. I normally use the “diagonal” passes method to get it flat since the beginning, probably ending in one end thinner than the other (obviously always the plane “exit” end). But how can you take care of the desired final thickness when you have to cross plane passes for bumps, twists, and shape defects when getting the final dimensions of the board? Hope I was able to explain my doubt. Take care Rob, you might run into scoliosis with all that videos over your left shoulder (which never appear, probably my iPhone settings...?)
The links over my shoulder dont appear on mobile, only tablet and desktop.
One of our upcoming videos will show you how to thickness the board by hand. Its the last step
Wow what a hand plane what is that I want one can u send me a link or description that must be 40 inches long the one u set the winding stick on
People who complain why handcrafted quality furniture is so expensive should watch this episode!
Yes. It takes a lot of time. Lots of folks want high end hand crafted furniture at Ikea prices!
So you start off with a 2X12 and end up with paneling ?
where do u buy jointers which don't need sole flattening at *realistic* price?
Hi Rob
Love your information, I have a question: I have had damage to the retina of my eye from welding flash burns. It is not real noticeable to me with the exception that in sighting a building line I will see a slightly curved line. Would it be your opinion that I would have problems with winding sticks? When they used to use square boxes for checking your eyes for upgrading your glasses I would see a box with a slight inward curve on all four sides of the square box. I know that lining up a concrete form by eye is a no go for me. Even with a building line I need to be careful. Overall sight is not bad as long as I have my glasses on, without well not so much.
When you sight across the top of the sticks, as you drop your eye-level the rear winding stick top edge will lower to meet the forward top edge. If there is twist one corner will be higher as the opposite corner disappears. So it isn't so much that the two edges appear level it is that the two corners disappear simultaneously. The two corners being the rear winding stick. The diagonal white corners of the rear stick assists in "measuring" how much twist exists. The winding sticks must have parallel edges, but the two sticks don't have to be the same height. Give it a try, I don't think the vision issue you describe will impact the effectiveness of the winding sticks identifying twist.
I agree with what james says. Try it reading winding sticks with a friend and see if you have the same readings or approximately the same readings as him, then you will know for sure
@@jamespierson1299 Thank you for the reply I will try it out.
@@waltereason832 the video actually gave me an idea if you're struggling, when the camera showed the winding sticks. I struggle with a knee injury getting steady balance when I'm crouching to see the twist and I end up bobbing up and down a little. If you are really struggling, then you could probably set up a camera with a viewfinder on a stand, and lower the camera a little at a time to do the same thing and it might be easier/steadier to read the difference. It's possibly a bit extreme, but if it makes it easier in your circumstances then it might be of help!
@@ricos1497 I second the recommendation to use a camera if you're having trouble and not in a rush. I did that recently as I was using winding sticks to align the tables on my powered jointer. It's basically the same concept that Rob demonstrated. After I adjusted the outfeed table parallel to my new helical cutterhead, I needed to adjust the infeed table parallel to the outfeed table. Problem was, my old eyes had difficulty distinguishing minor errors. I wanted to get the alignment as close to perfect as possible since I'll live with this adjustment for years, so I set up a camera much as @Rico S suggested and took a series of photos as I made adjustments. What a difference! By the way, if the aperture on your camera can be varied, you want a small aperture (higher f-stop) so both the near and far winding sticks are in focus.
Sometimes I see planes for sale with corrugated bottoms. I've always seen this as a disadvantage but I don't know why. Any thoughts on these planes?
Hi James, well its kind of an old Stanley gimmick, but it really doesn't matter. The idea with corrugated soles is there was about 50% less metal touching the wood, thus less friction and easier to push through the wood. The reality is I cant really tell a difference between them and non-corrugated soles. I don't remember how long Stanley produced them. If there is a real difference between the two sole types I suspect it is very small. On the secondary market there are less corrugated ones so they typically fetch a higher price. What is MUCH more important than the sole design is Bailey style vs. Bedrock style. Bedrock is far superior.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hi Rob, it's interesting to see your thoughts on the Bailey vs Bedrock style. What is it about the bedrock style that makes them superior in your opinion?
Todorov992 you need to watch Robs plane videos - they are very informative - basically the Bedrock is much faster, easier to adjust - I have an old corrugated sole Bailey/Stanley and just got a new WR 5-1/2 that Rob recommended - I absolutely LOVE the bedrock plane!
I've got a Stanley bailey 5 1/2 c. It's fine for face planing and wider edges. For narrow edges your working against the sole rather than with it function - it can top over. And if you do skew it the corrugations can nip the end corners.
Hey, Rob. Another great video.
I placed an order from your site on May 7th and still haven't received any real information on shipment. I have emailed a few times now and have not received a response.
Hi Brad, Jake said he responded but it may be in your spam folder. We are waiting on the 12” squares, no date but PEC says soon. Sorry but if we don’t make it ourselves we can only pass on info from the supplier. Covid bliss!
Cheers, Rob
Ok. Thank you very much.
Most important is sharp blade. 2nd is patience and perseverance.
Well said
Assuming your workpiece was cupped, rather that twisted, wouldn't you have to surface both sides of the workpiece?
I don't have winding sticks. I wonder if I can use my two aluminum levels and paint the corners.
as long as the levels are straight and have parallel edges.
It grates on me every time I hear it.Winding sticks!! It drives me barmy whenever I hear it said and it is rhymed with binding. The correct way to say it is winding sticks with winding rhyming with wind as in the wind blows. I used to hear this used all the time when I was an apprentice blacksmith and wheelwright. The winding sticks were used to find out if a board was true or out of wind, as in the wind blows. Think of it being spelt as winnd.
What's with the Unit Patches on the apron?
Purple Heart Project, six times a year we bring in 6 combat wounded Vets and treat them to an intense hand tool workshop. We then send them home with over $3k worth of tools and we arrange to have a workbench delivered to their home. Each Vet, two classes at a time, are represented on my Apron with their unit patch. Apron gets retired and hung on the wall before the next two classes. check it out www.robcosman.com
straightedge
I find your winding sticks interesting. The nature of my work is more commercial or production oriented, less toward the faultless or artwork. But now I have learned,, and added another trick to my bag. For that I thank you. To return the favour, I have noted three things. One is simplicity itself. No plane should ever be placed on its bottom. If you set a plane down on the bench or in its storage spot,, and in general,, whenever you put a plane down, you lay it on its side. That is an always. The second note,, and you already mentioned it and in some cases I agree with you, you should always pick up the plane on the return stroke. The example I will leave you with is I had 150 square spindles to make for a stairway and balcony rails for a house. The raw length was just under 48 inches,, four sides carefully ripped and then planed smooth on all four sides. That is appox. a kilometer of edges 1.12" wide. Dragging the bit on the return doubles the wear,, and doubles the number of times you need to stop and resharpen.
Third note. and this one is as subtle as it is important. Your start your stroke, advance your stroke with your arms. This is much better done by advancing your body with arms and shoulders quiet and almost, or entirely unmoving relative the position of your arms. It is your legs, back, and butt that advances the plane. Sure, finish the stroke with your arms,, but the start is always done with body,, not arms. The evidence of this change,, watch your own video,, you will see it repeatedly,, at the beginning of each stroke you are weighting the rear hand on the butt of the platten causing the front of the plane to rise or unweight. It is small.. it is incredibly small, but I saw it happen repeatedly. That the bump persisted longer at the start end of the board does not surprise me at all. The bit was without weight time and again. And be lazy. If you are going to plane a kilometer of sides it IS the butt and back and legs that are doing the work anyway,, why have tired arms as well. Just freeze them,, make them concentrate on a smooth even cut beginning,, extend the arms to finish the stroke, pick up the plane a fraction,, I sometimes leave the toe in contact on the return. By doing that method, you do not have to stop to clear curls on every stroke, increases speed and production,, and gives a better finished product. The pile of curls was more than knee deep when I stopped for lunch and the shoe was hot enough to immediately raise a blister if you touched it. Heat will lubricate the sole of the plane better than any application. And I would never use wax on an open cell wood. It can never come out. You can never use a water borne stain on a wood with wax in it. (a fourth item)
I should have said something just as important,,, the only reason I spent the time to relay what I have learned,, is you are good. Really good. A pleasure to watch.
And then you come back the next day and the wood has decided it doesn't like being flat... doh... very informative video though!
Yes it does. Once you have it flat if you have to come back the next day, store it standing on its edge so it equally absorbs moisture and is less likely to move on you
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks for that, I live in a rather high humidity area in the UK and have a small hobby work shop in a fairly dilapidated cast concrete garage and this happens to me all the time. I've watched lots of your videos as I'm wanting to use more hand tools, but as this warping happens alot I get put off investing the time when my planer thicknesser does a fairly bad but usable job. However if you have any other tips on dealing with humidity and wood wondering in non ideal environments that would be really helpful.
Most important for you is store your wood in you shop for a couple of weeks before use so it can adapt to your shop environment. Next is try an mill the wood on the same day you use it. Milling it through your planer then doing final surface prep with a plane is a great method
I have never seen this technique before. It appears so ancient, Rob must have learned it from Joseph! Ok, seriously so what is the longest winding stick you can have? Example, you want to flatten a panel glue up for a table top.
As long as you require. Just remember, the longer you make them, the greater chances they themselves can warp over time, rendering them useless.
Check Amazon.com, they have aluminum ones of various lengths and colors, just dont knock them about or drop them, and hope the delivery person and handling people don't bang them about. Check them against a known flat surface and each other when you get them before the return period expires, if you go that route.
Well I guess the outer limit is you ability to sight down and line up the two sticks. Ass long as they are parallel and have flat reference surfaces you can make them as long (or short) as you can reasonably use
I agree with everything Thomas says too
Planer!
In my apartment! Yeah!
Hit me with your winding sticks 🎶 😉
That would screw up the reference surface!!!
The title of this should have how to make Oak toothpicks .
woodwork king?
So buying a jointer is definitely worth it...
D
You're going to end up with a piece of wood half as thick as you started...lol
I am sorry to say that I have never seen the point of winding sticks in all my career, I am now 81. Two top quality 18" or 24" spirit levels are just as good if not better
Never too late to try them Alan!
This is how veneer is made.
Who else hates that sawing noise in his into?
I was taught that you should ALWAYS set a plane on its side on the bench.
Yes, but that is really a left over from shop teachers in the 50’s and beyond trying to keep students from messing up planes. Look at any of the drawings of workshops from the 1800s, 1700s and even early. No planes are on their sides. Our metals are much harder today than previously certainly harder than the wood they are designed to cut. Setting a plane on will will not harm the blade. If you set it down hard it might change the setting of the blade.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yep, I'm that old :)
I was also taught that if you're going to cut yourself make sure the tool is sharp.
My woodwork teacher would have rapped me across my knuckles if I had stood a plane on its blade on the table like that
Best to put the planes like that or even store them that way on a shelf than on their sides. You will not damage or dull the blade. That is a myth. But you will definitely prevent possible cuts when reaching for the plane.
Kevin Rogan Additionally to pull the plane back over the piece, backwards. Dulling the blade. Always lift and go back to start the next cut.
Why not just put the timber through a thicknesser and just a spirit level corner to corner to find out if it's true which it should be if you had a decent thicknesser.
Peter, single surface thickness planers, what most folks have, make the top parallel to the bottom. If the bottom isnt flat, ie cupped or twisted, then the top will come out smooth and cupped or twisted just like the bottom.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking the planed side will always come out flat and when you reverse it over, then the other side becomes flat as well. If timber is badly buckled at the start, plane with electric planer to get it reasonably flat first.
Sorry Pete, we dont work at the same level.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Fair enough. I'm into quick and "good enough" because I'm a carpenter. I'm not going to faff about getting things absolutely perfect. In that way, I kind of admire you and the work you do. Keep the good work up. 👍
So I know everyone has their own method of doing things, but when I need a 1/4" mull casing, I just go to the lumber yard and buy one rather than hand planing down a 3/4 board. But, to each his own I guess....
Well the idea of this series of videos is to teach a hand planing basic techniques. So this one is how to get a board to the precise width you need with hand tools. On a daily basis I would use a jointer to get close and then do my final passes with a hand plane, but having these skills will make you a better and more confident woodworker...I promise.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking: My comment was meant as a joke, Rob. Just having a little fun ! Thanks for your efforts..... love your thoughtful videos !
Rob: I suggest you turn your planes on their sides during use. I thought you knew about correct hand tool care.
If you mean when the plane is not used and rests on the bench it was taught so to avoid that beginner students drop their blade on some nail, tool or other metal object, that any way should not be on the bench, but the blade is actually more protected if the blade is against the bench surface and is not damaged at all by it.
with the plane on its side it is actually more likely that you hit the blade with an other tool, while you are working at the bench or even after if you leave the plane there.
the actual correct tool care has nothing to do with how you let rest the plane on the bench, sole or side down, but has lot to do with how you are careful to have the cleanest bench surface possible, rid of everything you are not actually using. bench surfaces crowded with tools that you are not using any more are the risk for plane blades and make the work flow much less efficient, you spend more time moving stuff on the bench to make space then to put the stuff on its shelf, or wherever is its storage place, after you have used it.
I appreciate the skills and the techniques but to me this is other than getting that beautifully smooth surface for finishing a pointless exercise because you can come back the next morning and things can be out again. So unless you're going to get everything, meaning all the boards involved in your project, perfectly flat and then immediately start assembling everything so all the pieces can hold themselves true I see nothing but time consuming frustration constantly adjusting.
Winding sticks probably aren’t for you then.
Buy yourself a straight edge.