Rob, I just have to say that your attention to precision is why I am gravitating to hand tools for my woodwork. I appreciate your educational videos, and of course, your work. Thank you.
Yesterday I was listening to/watching one of your videos while I was driving in the car and my girlfriend said who’s that? I said oh that’s Rob Kossman he’s my woodworking instructor. LOL seriously though I do appreciate all that I have learned continue to learn from you. Thank you so much. I also appreciate what you do for our veterans as a veteran myself I know what that means.
You have taught me more then I could have ever imagined. My handplaning has greatly improved because of your way of teaching. Thanks so much for making me a better woodworker. I live with a traumatic brain injury and woodworking is my therapy. Your videos inspire me to want to be better. Moving forward I will only be buying my hand tools from you. Its the least I can do for all this amazing free content. And well, all your tool reviews has me sold on everything your website has to offer. THANK YOU!!!!!! James
For people who need to build confidence and to practice cutting to a line: you could mark a second line and cut to that. Gives you a small safety margin to remove the fear while still encouraging accuracy. Just a thought.
I would love to see a video of you prepping a board like this from beginning to end at the pace you usually work at (without taking the time teaching). Almost like your timed dovetail videos - just so we could see how efficiently it can be done. Right now it takes me even longer than all of the combined videos in this series to prep a board. . . And I wind up with something the size of a toothpick (although a very nice flat / square toothpick). Thanks so much for sharing your expertise and for always getting me stoked to go work on something!
I had only a No. 4 Hand plane till I started watching Paul Sellers, as a result of seeing how quickly, accurate squaring on end grain could be achieved, I now have two Block Planes, a Low angle 62, a router plane and a detail shoulder plane. I have three shooting boards and use my cabinet saw only for rough dimensioning. Handplaning is a true joy in my woodworking!
Wonderful teaching techniques. Ever since I’ve been tuned into Robs chanel, I have made a couple of shooting boards. So easy to make. Plenty of practice required with my No.5. I rely on the boards all the time now! Thank you Rob
The example and leadership you provide in achieving accuracy and doing the best you can do is infectious. I now use a a shooting board all the time. I knife all four sides, plane a chamfer to avoid bust out, flip and plane as required to the knife line, assess and plane until I can see the knife line all around but there is no detectable ledge to the knife line in the end grain. How pedantic, but I'm loving my crazy.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking That's exactly what my mate calls it. He has a hobby, wood machining shop. He was only just recently "gifted" his first and only plane, a low angle jack plane. I now lament that I know why it was a gift.
Well I was impressed on you doing hand cut dovetails, so I tried and WOW, I made a big mess of it, I guess I’ll stick to my router and jig. It taught me that hand made dovetail is not as easy as you make it look. I’m impressed with your knowledge and talent. 😃👍🏻.
Another great video - that tip about the scribe line at the 8:40 (ish) mark is gold. Thanks so much! I had that problem a few weeks ago making a box and was so annoyed!
Thxs for the short and concise video. No fluff or B.S. with you. Just straight forward principles demonstrated in a practical application. I've had my Wood River 5 1/2 for about 4 months now ( you dont ship to US so i bought from Woodcraft)and after using it and getting comfortable with it i agree with your sentiment, Im always looking for an opportunity to use it now. My shooting board and 5 1/2 are my go-to set up.Do you have a video showing how you built a long miter shooting board? If not, that would be a great idea.
Rob, the issue is not with single boards but with squaring the ends of thick laminated benchtops, say, without power tools, and no functioning workbench. I have a No. 5 and cabinet scraper only aside from some squares. Very frustrated.
Great series Rob and team! I have gotten into the habit of always using my shooting board after making cross cuts. Your technics are accurate and easy to apply.
Sold on the 5 1/2. Will be ordering one from Woodcraft next month. Someday I'll be good enough with hand tools to justify Lie-Neilsen. No hearing protection needed either, which is a very zen way to be in the shop.
Another great lesson, thanks Rob. I have an issue with cutting a chamfer on the reference edge on my shooting board (which I built because you told me to, haha 😉), I can't seem to stop the plane from digging in, so what I do is I turn the plane around, leaving the reference edge against the fence and then pull the plane towards me. Another thing I like to do is make a knife line around the whole board before I crosscut, which helps me find square easier and because I use the my reference side to scribe front and back my groves are automatically parallel on both sides. On a lighter note, I thought I was getting stronger during the lock down because I am planing so much easier, but the my daughters pointed out how much weight I've gained during lockdown and because I use my body and not my arms, I'm actually not stronger, I've just got a heavier hammer, lol 😂
Art both of those techniques work. Sound like when you chamfer like me you are holding the wood at too great an angle. But if you “reverse” method works for you then stick with it. I actually should have also shown and discussed striking the line all the way around
Thanks Rob! I am just starting out with hand tools and having a blast. Built my shooting board last night and tried to copy your design it works perfect.
Awesome to hear...So what subject should we focus our next video on? Make sure you subscribe to our free monthly newsletter. Link is in the description
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Well to be honest I'm working on a project now and using Black Walnut I picked some with "character", so while I plane with the grain its one but when I get close to the knots etc it tears out. Can you do a video on working with highly figured or knotty wood? I'm using a low angle jack, low angle block and card scraper.
I love that I am constantly learning from following this channel. BTW The beard makes it look like your granddad has taken over presenting your channel.
I am new to your channel and i love what you do and the details with what you put forth. I would like to ask what does one do if one can not afford the high dollar planes to get to the squareness that you show? Just wondering what i could do to get to what your doing.
There is no reason why you cannot get the same squareness with a cheaper plane. It's only wood, not titanium,m and you're working to "square to the eye", not to a micrometer. Your plane needs to have a flat sole and if using a shooting board then the side must be square. The blade needs to be sharp, and set flat... and the cuts need to be very shallow. That's all, the price of the plane is largely irrelevant.
A little off topic but have you given any thought to making your PHP shirts in a golf shirt style. My PHP is my go to shop shirt but not many people visit my shop. A golf shirt would get a lot more exposure. Also, would love to see a series on finishing
I am working on product development of a face miter shooting board. For a bevel angle I prefer holding the plane at an angle verses holding the board at an angle
After making a shooting board according to your how-to video, I was finding it impossible to get the edge square relative to the bottom reference face of the board. Eventually I figured out that the side of the body of my Woodriver #6 plane is significantly out of square with the sole. Is this by design, or did I get one that was poorly machined? And until I am able to purchase another plane (and verify it is square before forking over the cash) is there any downside to using my current plane but with the blade significantly skewed (relative to the sole)?
No issue at all with skewing the blade. If your plane is recently purchased, take it back. If that is not an option square up the side by sanding. Get some course (80 or 120 grit) stick it to a flat substrate (MDF is what I use) the sand the side of the plane, putting pressure on the high side. Keep checking with a square until you bring it in square. Then take it up to 320 to look nice. You can also check with a local machine shop, some have these big flattening disks and they can do it for you
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I talked with Woodcraft tech support, and apparently their tolerance for squareness is .018". I'm not sure I'm up to the challenge of sanding down the side of my plane. Oh darn, looks like I'll have to go shopping for a new one!
Hey Rob, just getting a chance to catch up. I’m back to my hectic work schedule. Do you think it’d be a good idea to put “ask me about PHP” somewhere on the tee shirts ? Just a little something to start the conversation... just a thought, still wearing them every day !
Something to consider from the start: planing the ends will change the length of the board. It is quite easy to remove a 32nd or 16th of an inch in just a few passes.
Let’s do the math on that. 1/16 is 62 and 1/2 thousands of an inch. My typical end grain shaving is .004. That is 15 passes for a 1/16 or 8 passes to remove 1/32”.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Okay, so it's easier to remove 1/32" , and if it is true on both ends, then only 4 passes at each end to achieve such a reduction. Assuming your typical end grain shaving is universal to beginners, it is quite easy to whip out 15 passes to square an end that isn't already near square. Not to mention both ends may not be square. My point is that incorrectly cutting to length (not allowing for squaring) prior to squaring the ends may result in a shorted board.
Loved the intro. You said what you were going to cover and motivated them to keep viewing. Your motivation point was "and I'll help you get better." You didn't say what the importance of a square edge was but appealed to the basic motivation of a significant portion of your viewers. The Body of the lesson was good. It addressed all the aspects of what you intended to cover. You could have segmented it a bit to assist the viewer in identifying the topic you were covering at the time and the key information they needed to remember, but it all takes more work and time. What you did was good. Maybe you could give the video editing team a 50% pay rise LOL.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I think it's good, to the point, not pushy, but clear. I'm frustrated that so many people watch your videos that don't hit the "like" button. Maybe include that if they like your style then also hit the like button. For my part I feel guilty that I've learnt so much but not subscribed. The reasons include the $$$ exchange rate, I'm a retired military guy (23yrs Air Force) on a pension, blah blah blah. But I feel a bit better that I can give some help with teh videos. I did ask for my email to be passed to the Aussie work bench guy but got no reply. I'm 2000klms North of him so not sure how that would work.
@@1deerndingo I didn't know you had to pay to subscribe on TH-cam! I have subscribed to several channels (although this is obviously the best one) and I don't think I have paid for any of them. I am based in the UK. I don't know if that makes any difference.
Then you introduce two issues: 1) you will add file marks, and 2) thats not a very efficient way to get the end square. You will find a plane much better
Why do woodworkers keep using terms like 'perfect', when the work they do is (necessarily) one of the least perfect of all the machining processes? As someone who does both woodwork and metalwork, I note that woodworkers use 'perfect', 'exactly' and other such words whereas a machinist (working to way greater accuracy) talks about tolerance and specification- never 'perfect'. By all means say 'accurate'- that is not an absolute and can include tolerance.
By “perfect” we mean that we cannot obtain any better results with our system of measuring. You’d prefer that when we get something to fit we say something like “well that’s an accurate fit?” Or perhaps “that fit is satisfactory for my needs?” Go complain elsewhere because you’re doing it too much here.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Wow, sensitive…. Using measuring equipment too crude to detect errors does not mean they do not exist. Say 'accurate' by all means- that is not an absolute. 'Perfect' is a Platonic ideal. The word is not the problem, it is the way of thinking- far from accurate and leading to false concepts.
Sensitive? You’re the one complaining about our lack of editing being a waste of your time and whining about our use of absolutes because it triggers you.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I was not complaining about my time- I can skip through most of it. I expressed the view that it is less than courteous to waste years of viewers time. You may think differently... It does not 'trigger' me. I was trying to help you- but you seem to get angry if any comments are not fawning approval. Pray continue with your narrower world view if that suits you.
I get so much pleasure out of watching this guy work. His hands remind me so much of my father
Rob, I just have to say that your attention to precision is why I am gravitating to hand tools for my woodwork. I appreciate your educational videos, and of course, your work. Thank you.
Yesterday I was listening to/watching one of your videos while I was driving in the car and my girlfriend said who’s that? I said oh that’s Rob Kossman he’s my woodworking instructor. LOL seriously though I do appreciate all that I have learned continue to learn from you. Thank you so much. I also appreciate what you do for our veterans as a veteran myself I know what that means.
You have taught me more then I could have ever imagined. My handplaning has greatly improved because of your way of teaching. Thanks so much for making me a better woodworker. I live with a traumatic brain injury and woodworking is my therapy. Your videos inspire me to want to be better. Moving forward I will only be buying my hand tools from you. Its the least I can do for all this amazing free content. And well, all your tool reviews has me sold on everything your website has to offer. THANK YOU!!!!!! James
‘... you cut as close to the line as you trust your sawing...’ brilliant! Thanks again. Much appreciated good man.
For people who need to build confidence and to practice cutting to a line: you could mark a second line and cut to that. Gives you a small safety margin to remove the fear while still encouraging accuracy. Just a thought.
Well good tip....but I will take brilliant!!!
I would love to see a video of you prepping a board like this from beginning to end at the pace you usually work at (without taking the time teaching). Almost like your timed dovetail videos - just so we could see how efficiently it can be done. Right now it takes me even longer than all of the combined videos in this series to prep a board. . . And I wind up with something the size of a toothpick (although a very nice flat / square toothpick). Thanks so much for sharing your expertise and for always getting me stoked to go work on something!
Great video idea
I had only a No. 4 Hand plane till I started watching Paul Sellers, as a result of seeing how quickly, accurate squaring on end grain could be achieved, I now have two Block Planes, a Low angle 62, a router plane and a detail shoulder plane. I have three shooting boards and use my cabinet saw only for rough dimensioning. Handplaning is a true joy in my woodworking!
Wonderful teaching techniques. Ever since I’ve been tuned into Robs chanel, I have made a couple of shooting boards. So easy to make. Plenty of practice required with my No.5. I rely on the boards all the time now! Thank you Rob
Simply one of the best channels here on YT on teaching craftsmanship. Textbook style at it´s best, thanks Rob.
I always learn something new with your videos. This time, scoring the bottom side before sawing.
Thanks for watching and commenting
The example and leadership you provide in achieving accuracy and doing the best you can do is infectious. I now use a a shooting board all the time. I knife all four sides, plane a chamfer to avoid bust out, flip and plane as required to the knife line, assess and plane until I can see the knife line all around but there is no detectable ledge to the knife line in the end grain. How pedantic, but I'm loving my crazy.
Welcome to the dark side!!!!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking That's exactly what my mate calls it. He has a hobby, wood machining shop. He was only just recently "gifted" his first and only plane, a low angle jack plane. I now lament that I know why it was a gift.
Well I was impressed on you doing hand cut dovetails, so I tried and WOW, I made a big mess of it, I guess I’ll stick to my router and jig. It taught me that hand made dovetail is not as easy as you make it look. I’m impressed with your knowledge and talent. 😃👍🏻.
aha sums up my experience i'll watch a video feel like a pro try it, cry, then come back and watch 10 more times lol
Excellent demonstration.
Thanks.
How do you get the shooting board perfectly square
My favorite serie of videos, i've seen 3 times
Thanks so much. COL Luther is directing videos to fill out playlists so we have a digital reference library for folks to use.
The crispness of the cut is music to my ears!!
That was awesome! Thanks a bunch!
Good tip about cutting a line with the marking knife to prevent the fibers from breaking out past your line.
Yes. For you final cut its a must
Yup its a must
Paul Sellers released video for end grain jig. Its brilliant!
Another great video - that tip about the scribe line at the 8:40 (ish) mark is gold. Thanks so much! I had that problem a few weeks ago making a box and was so annoyed!
Yes fiber tear out is not fun. Strike a line!
The Magic wax is awesome! Thanks for developing that product.
Its magic !!!!!
Thxs for the short and concise video. No fluff or B.S. with you. Just straight forward principles demonstrated in a practical application. I've had my Wood River 5 1/2 for about 4 months now ( you dont ship to US so i bought from Woodcraft)and after using it and getting comfortable with it i agree with your sentiment, Im always looking for an opportunity to use it now. My shooting board and 5 1/2 are my go-to set up.Do you have a video showing how you built a long miter shooting board? If not, that would be a great idea.
Rob, the issue is not with single boards but with squaring the ends of thick laminated benchtops, say, without power tools, and no functioning workbench. I have a No. 5 and cabinet scraper only aside from some squares. Very frustrated.
Great series Rob and team! I have gotten into the habit of always using my shooting board after making cross cuts. Your technics are accurate and easy to apply.
Thanks for the kind words. Hope we are giving you tips you can use. What video should we do next?
How about mortise and tenon joints with machine and hand tools.
2:28 Where's my wax?? , classic Rob meme 😄
Sorry, Rob, I just love this 🤣👍👍👍
Was watching the wood hinged box video and saw this pop up!
I planed it that way
RobCosman.com haha!
thanks 👌
Sold on the 5 1/2. Will be ordering one from Woodcraft next month. Someday I'll be good enough with hand tools to justify Lie-Neilsen. No hearing protection needed either, which is a very zen way to be in the shop.
I truly love hand tools only woodworking. I do use power, but when i am unplugged its awesome
Great lesson Rob, thanks for sharing it.
You bet. One more video and we will be finished with this piece of wood....then its one to dovetails
Another great lesson, thanks Rob.
I have an issue with cutting a chamfer on the reference edge on my shooting board (which I built because you told me to, haha 😉), I can't seem to stop the plane from digging in, so what I do is I turn the plane around, leaving the reference edge against the fence and then pull the plane towards me.
Another thing I like to do is make a knife line around the whole board before I crosscut, which helps me find square easier and because I use the my reference side to scribe front and back my groves are automatically parallel on both sides.
On a lighter note, I thought I was getting stronger during the lock down because I am planing so much easier, but the my daughters pointed out how much weight I've gained during lockdown and because I use my body and not my arms, I'm actually not stronger, I've just got a heavier hammer, lol 😂
Art both of those techniques work. Sound like when you chamfer like me you are holding the wood at too great an angle. But if you “reverse” method works for you then stick with it. I actually should have also shown and discussed striking the line all the way around
Thanks Rob! I am just starting out with hand tools and having a blast. Built my shooting board last night and tried to copy your design it works perfect.
Awesome to hear...So what subject should we focus our next video on? Make sure you subscribe to our free monthly newsletter. Link is in the description
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Well to be honest I'm working on a project now and using Black Walnut I picked some with "character", so while I plane with the grain its one but when I get close to the knots etc it tears out. Can you do a video on working with highly figured or knotty wood? I'm using a low angle jack, low angle block and card scraper.
Wow, your very cool. Thank you!
I love that I am constantly learning from following this channel. BTW The beard makes it look like your granddad has taken over presenting your channel.
That is my granddad...we look a lot alike!!!!! Lol
Nice video, stay safe !!
Thanks, you too!
What is the video where you show how to use the edge of the bench as a shooting board?
Also, application has been put in as you asked Rob.
Yes COL Luther told me he got it, but still needs to process it
i really like how you show how to do a task in several different ways. also, i havnt used my block planes since i got the 5 1/2
Yea the 5-1/2 does almost everything
I am new to your channel and i love what you do and the details with what you put forth. I would like to ask what does one do if one can not afford the high dollar planes to get to the squareness that you show? Just wondering what i could do to get to what your doing.
There is no reason why you cannot get the same squareness with a cheaper plane. It's only wood, not titanium,m and you're working to "square to the eye", not to a micrometer. Your plane needs to have a flat sole and if using a shooting board then the side must be square. The blade needs to be sharp, and set flat... and the cuts need to be very shallow. That's all, the price of the plane is largely irrelevant.
A little off topic but have you given any thought to making your PHP shirts in a golf shirt style. My PHP is my go to shop shirt but not many people visit my shop. A golf shirt would get a lot more exposure. Also, would love to see a series on finishing
Good idea. We are always looking for ways to grow, thanks
RobCosman.com Hats too
Do you have a shooting board for 45 degree bevels? I've seen a few different designs and would be interested what you do. Thanks.
I am working on product development of a face miter shooting board. For a bevel angle I prefer holding the plane at an angle verses holding the board at an angle
After making a shooting board according to your how-to video, I was finding it impossible to get the edge square relative to the bottom reference face of the board. Eventually I figured out that the side of the body of my Woodriver #6 plane is significantly out of square with the sole. Is this by design, or did I get one that was poorly machined? And until I am able to purchase another plane (and verify it is square before forking over the cash) is there any downside to using my current plane but with the blade significantly skewed (relative to the sole)?
No issue at all with skewing the blade. If your plane is recently purchased, take it back. If that is not an option square up the side by sanding. Get some course (80 or 120 grit) stick it to a flat substrate (MDF is what I use) the sand the side of the plane, putting pressure on the high side. Keep checking with a square until you bring it in square. Then take it up to 320 to look nice. You can also check with a local machine shop, some have these big flattening disks and they can do it for you
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I talked with Woodcraft tech support, and apparently their tolerance for squareness is .018". I'm not sure I'm up to the challenge of sanding down the side of my plane. Oh darn, looks like I'll have to go shopping for a new one!
Is the chamfered corner taken off completely during the last pass or is it left?
Almost all.
Hey Rob, just getting a chance to catch up. I’m back to my hectic work schedule. Do you think it’d be a good idea to put “ask me about PHP” somewhere on the tee shirts ? Just a little something to start the conversation... just a thought, still wearing them every day !
Another software engineer here too, but starting on woodworking! Php, but mostly Ruby on Rails!
HI ROB: HOW DOES THAT RED OAK FAR OUT WHEN MAKING DOVETAILS WOULD LOVE TO SEE SOME DOVETAILS IN RED OAK !!!!
Something to consider from the start: planing the ends will change the length of the board. It is quite easy to remove a 32nd or 16th of an inch in just a few passes.
Let’s do the math on that. 1/16 is 62 and 1/2 thousands of an inch. My typical end grain shaving is .004. That is 15 passes for a 1/16 or 8 passes to remove 1/32”.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Okay, so it's easier to remove 1/32" , and if it is true on both ends, then only 4 passes at each end to achieve such a reduction. Assuming your typical end grain shaving is universal to beginners, it is quite easy to whip out 15 passes to square an end that isn't already near square. Not to mention both ends may not be square.
My point is that incorrectly cutting to length (not allowing for squaring) prior to squaring the ends may result in a shorted board.
Is that an Ibc blade or a wood river sir?
I use both, almost without a thought. Use either.
Rob you need to stand a little bit closer to the razor. Great video
It do much easier to run away from it
So much easier to run away from it
(approx quote) : "it's strange that we use the lightest plane to do the heaviest planing - end grain" - Exactly what I though, Rob!
We are apparently in synch!!!
Loved the intro. You said what you were going to cover and motivated them to keep viewing. Your motivation point was "and I'll help you get better." You didn't say what the importance of a square edge was but appealed to the basic motivation of a significant portion of your viewers.
The Body of the lesson was good. It addressed all the aspects of what you intended to cover. You could have segmented it a bit to assist the viewer in identifying the topic you were covering at the time and the key information they needed to remember, but it all takes more work and time. What you did was good. Maybe you could give the video editing team a 50% pay rise LOL.
No pay raises....OK maybe. How did you like the new call for action section at the begining
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I think it's good, to the point, not pushy, but clear. I'm frustrated that so many people watch your videos that don't hit the "like" button. Maybe include that if they like your style then also hit the like button.
For my part I feel guilty that I've learnt so much but not subscribed. The reasons include the $$$ exchange rate, I'm a retired military guy (23yrs Air Force) on a pension, blah blah blah. But I feel a bit better that I can give some help with teh videos. I did ask for my email to be passed to the Aussie work bench guy but got no reply. I'm 2000klms North of him so not sure how that would work.
@@1deerndingo I didn't know you had to pay to subscribe on TH-cam! I have subscribed to several channels (although this is obviously the best one) and I don't think I have paid for any of them. I am based in the UK. I don't know if that makes any difference.
I now have a square wood piece... But it's 1mm too short. 😫
I don’t see miter jacks being used. They can also be used for squaring up the end of a board.
Yes they can, i typically just reach for my 5-1/2
To square the opposite edge, couldn't you just use a left-handed shooting board?
Today my 5 1/2 WoodRiver arrived....i see this beast that often in your ✋ that i decided to get one....😍
You will love it.. prep it then get that blade sharpened
I tried it ... very nice !...but i flatn a piece of ash and the blade worn fast....is it normal?
Tactical beard? Cool))
I just shaved it...Too itchy
@@RobCosmanWoodworking A tactical beard, for a joiner, it’s no worse than a marine)) .. and yes, it shaves in the heat .. well, that ..))
can't you just remove mill marks with a file?
Then you introduce two issues: 1) you will add file marks, and 2) thats not a very efficient way to get the end square. You will find a plane much better
Thought you were going to shave?
I did finally
Why do woodworkers keep using terms like 'perfect', when the work they do is (necessarily) one of the least perfect of all the machining processes? As someone who does both woodwork and metalwork, I note that woodworkers use 'perfect', 'exactly' and other such words whereas a machinist (working to way greater accuracy) talks about tolerance and specification- never 'perfect'.
By all means say 'accurate'- that is not an absolute and can include tolerance.
By “perfect” we mean that we cannot obtain any better results with our system of measuring. You’d prefer that when we get something to fit we say something like “well that’s an accurate fit?” Or perhaps “that fit is satisfactory for my needs?” Go complain elsewhere because you’re doing it too much here.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Wow, sensitive…. Using measuring equipment too crude to detect errors does not mean they do not exist. Say 'accurate' by all means- that is not an absolute. 'Perfect' is a Platonic ideal. The word is not the problem, it is the way of thinking- far from accurate and leading to false concepts.
Sensitive? You’re the one complaining about our lack of editing being a waste of your time and whining about our use of absolutes because it triggers you.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I was not complaining about my time- I can skip through most of it. I expressed the view that it is less than courteous to waste years of viewers time. You may think differently... It does not 'trigger' me. I was trying to help you- but you seem to get angry if any comments are not fawning approval. Pray continue with your narrower world view if that suits you.