CLSP Edge Sewing Guide - DIY
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.พ. 2022
- Here’s my attempt to make a DIY edge guide for the Chinese leather shoe patcher a.k.a CLSP. A few months ago, I downloaded a 3D print file for an edge guide and it served me well. Some have requested via DM for a DIY version. This can be made using veg tanned tooling leather, a bearing, washer, screw and some elbow grease. I’ve included links to where the materials can possibly be sourced below:
My previous 3D printed edge guide: • CLSP Edge Sewing Guide
Needle: www.amazon.com/Leather-Sewing...
Screw: www.amazon.com/VIGRUE-1235PCS...
Die cut: www.amazon.com/ATPWONZ-Hollow...
Bearing:
sg.rs-online.com/web/p/ball-b...
Dowel: www.amazon.com/Dowel-Pegs/s?k... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Well done. It was a simple, great idea. A washer on top for the hex cap screw is all I would add.
Excellent suggestion. I have replaced the screw I initially used with a longer one and now have both washers installed (top & bottom).
That is an excellent DIY video. Each step is clearly explained and anyone should be able to build their own. Back in Jan I made a similar guide from aluminum with a bearing.
Thanks for leaving your feedback. I love the idea of using aluminum as a guide. Please send me a link if you posted something online.
what a simple and elegant design! thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the feedback.
I'm going to make one , It is simple un complicated and it works,what more does it need, brilliant, thanks 😊😊
Many thanks!. Glad you enjoyed it. Appreciate the feedback.
Bravo ! thanks for sharing
Thanks for the feedback.
Cool 👀👍🏻 I have the same machine, and I'm always interested in what people have done to their machines to improve customize and modify, thanks for sharing 🙂
@@anarchytelevision8445 Thanks for the feedback. Have you named your machine? I call my CLSP ‘Oscar’ a bit grouchy and temperamental at times but is a champ! Will post a few more videos soon.
@@VP4TD no I haven't named my machine but now that you asked me that I'm going to be thinking about what I should name it, I've done a couple of videos on my channel and you can see what I've got going on, and I'm always interested in what other people are doing with their machines 😊👍🏻
@@anarchytelevision8445 just subscribed. I too love to see what other people have done and what creations they have made with their trusty CLSP. Happy crafting. ☺️
excellent idea , very usefull indeed ... thanks a lot (Philippines)
Thanks bro. Appreciate the feedback. Salamat. 😀
Genius
Great work there, I would add a flat washer to the screw to stop the leather getting damaged though ;-)
Excellent suggestion! I tried it but will need to source longer screw as the one I got was a bit shorter. You’ll notice in 6:41 there is an indentation from when I was testing the fit with a washer on top. Thanks.
hoş bir düz gitme yapısı olmuş eline sağlık bu makinelerde alttan çift milli hareketle çalişan hereket ettirici olmadığı için ileri geri yapmak pek mümkün olmuyor galiba
That there is slicker 'N deer innards on the front porch!
Interesting metaphor - but I like it. 😎
just run some sandpaper over the credit card to help you get more grip when you start gluing, then the glue will make more sense. and I would have made everything the same width before gluing everything, but anyway... it's just an example

You can just get a small seam guide that just sticks to the arm, it’s made by sew very smooth.
That’s a good suggestion. Do you mind sending a link so that I can see how it is done? Thanks for the feedback.
@ TW Va Where can I get one?
But the diy one is made of leather and gives the machine “character”.
I enjoyed the video. Yet, I'm still frustrated. I will try to use the proper terms. I made sure the crank nob is at 12 o'clock, and made sure the bobbin holder's back wall is facing right. I put the bobbin thread through the first hole closest to the spring. I pulled the thread through the top hole that is lined up with the bottom hole. I got the thread behind the spread. I tested the bobbin shuttle and the end of that bobbin gear is flush with that hole on the left of the bobbin shuttle when the crack nob is at 3 o'clock. That vertical thread shaft top is at 1/4 inch protruding out the top. I sanded all the bobbins, bobbin holder, and shuttle area. On the hand crank, I made sure bobbin shuttle notch is in the middle grove, and the other gear notch is in the outer grove. I made sure that little notch in the middle is lined up with that small notch on the hand crank. So here is what happens when I crank the machine to pick up the bobbin thread. The bobbin thread is not moving so the needle could pick it up. So I removed the bobbin cover and test cracked it. The bobbin is moving properly. I put the cover back on and held the bobbin with a little tension. The thread is moving but still not picking up. I'm clueless.
I agree with you. These machines are amazing when you have everything dialed in. But can be quite frustrating when setting it up. I do have machine hiccups at times when I change to a different thread or needle size. I can send you a video of my setup after I run it through what you described in the comments to see how we can help fine tune your settings.
Did you check how far the needle is coming down? Put your finger over the bottom hole on the arm and in the lowest position, you should just feel the tip of the needle. If not, it needs lowered, if it's too low, raise it. If the needle doesn't travel far enough- the bobbin won't pick up the thread.
Do you have or know of a video that I can use as a guide on preparing my machine to work like yours does? I have the same one but I'm new to sewing and not sure where to start haha. Thanks! Awesome idea by the way. I'll try making one also
Great question. I’ll work on a set of videos to help out. Do you have anything specific you would like to see?
What Arbor did you use, and what glue and training do I use. I just started in this hobby. Have lot to learn. Thank you for sharing!!!
For this project, I used a hand press grommet machine and removed the dies and replaced it with a small piece of steel. I also used contact cement to glue the pieces together. I created this playlist as a way to share small projects and solutions that showcase what thIs handy CLSP can do.
@@VP4TD Thank you!
Nice
Thank you. Appreciate the feedback.
I thinking that you should put a washer on top, and make the screw into a wing nut type so that it can be tightened down a little better. I like the leather idea better than a piece of aluminum.
Thanks. Excellent feedback. I started using a washer based on feedback from others as well. This has been a very useful tip.
Здорово, я только такую направляющую придумал, а она уже есть, в вашем исполнении! 🙂👍
Спасибо. Я хотел бы увидеть, что вы разработали. Я уверен, что это выглядит потрясающе. Спасибо за комментарии.
genius
Thanks for the feedback. 😅
Bearing I would like to find out what size bearing you used and where can I get them
I used ‘deep groove ball bearings’ with an inner diameter of 8mm and outer diameter of 22mm. These are normally 7mm in height. If you’re stateside you can get these from Amazon. They’re also likely stocked at your local skateboard shop. The bearing number is normally labelled 608. I hope this helps.
Looks very similar to the bearings used in skateboard wheels.
I would like to know what's the number of the screw so I can buy that size instead of the kit
Great question. The thread length I used for my machine is at 12mm; the diameter of the thread is 4.8mm. The head has a stamp of 12.9 grade alloy steel. Best to measure the original screw that came with your machine as these are forged or produced by different companies. I’m also thinking of using a slightly longer thread (16mm) so that I could add another washer for the top.
Why leather and not metal? Are you just more comfortable working with leather or will it actually make a difference?
Great question. At the time, I was working with the tools I had (specifically for leather crafting). This could also be done with metal, wood, or even plastic. I initially experimented with a 3D print version which led me to this design.
Stick with the original leather, it seems to work well and looks good. It gives the machine “charm”.
Do you have one for sale I would like to have one
Sorry, I just made one for this machine. I think there’s a guy selling these on ebay.
hello do you have a 3d print file for this edge guide.
I’ll post a link where the 3D print file is located. It is in a Facebook group for CLSP owners and enthusiasts.
The link is inside a Facebook group here: facebook.com/groups/1646031288779869/?ref=share
@@VP4TD Great thank you. I just sent a request to join the group. Thanks again.
@@robhenderson548 I got in the group but cant find the file.... could you help?
@@bobbobbinson1841 didn’t notice this post - sorry. On the top section of the FB group navigate to Files > sewing guide rev2.stl
In Russia, such a metal device can be bought for $ 1 in a store.
Please share the link where we can get this as it may help others that prefer to buy. Thanks.
Sina masinasi tikishni nerobka qilish qanday ishlatish munkin
I don't quite know how to answer this question. But if you have experience with a sewing machine the principle is the same but this is the very crude version. Rahmat.
De que pais eres
Soy natural de las Filipinas
What are the dimensions?
It’s 2cm wide, 6.8cm long. The thickness is 1cm (3 layers of leather; each layer is .33cm thick). I hope this helps.
Креплю обычную струбцину, результат тот же))
Удивительно. Спасибо за ваши комментарии.
I had one of them shoe patcher machines Bobin was too small hurt my shoulder I gave it away
Sorry to hear it didn’t work out. I agree these machines are a bit temperamental. What are you using now?
@@VP4TD cobra class 26 and I love that Machine it is worth every penny. I still enjoy hand sewing, but that thing will do the job.(belts👍)
@@bartstewart1807 that’s quite a machine you got there. Definitely another league of machinery. A cobbler and leather crafters’ dream.
лишнии геморой .а когда нужно нить добавить это все нужно раскручивать ...
FAKE alternative to 3D printed guide. WOOD would be way fairer
I work with what I have access to. Thanks for dropping a comment.
Oh yeah. Metal would be better than wood.