The only video where I have to pause instead of fast forwarding. Thank you for the awesome straight to the point information. I also like how you acknowledge that other methods are not wrong or not as good. Except for the ones you said where incorrect because of the damage or dangers they produce. Thanks again sir.
Exactly...when I look for a do it yourself video...I almost always pick the shortest one. It shouldn't take 18 minutes to show me how to replace an ax handle, THNX!!!
If you have a belt sander, turn it upside down on the bench and it can profile the handle very easily. Also it can be used to touch up the top of the handle sticking out before you install the wedge, making it perfectly flush.
the only video I'm aware of where it states how far the head should rest below the kerf! I am attempting my first restoration (Worthington/Mann Anniversary?) and was held up wondering how far past the kerf I should place the head. Good vid!
When I saw the video was only 4 mins long,I knew what technique you were going to use.The same way one I was taught 50 years ago.the only way to do it and the tool head shaved the wood for a skin tight fit.And it’s rather speedy too!the hell with files and all that other time consuming stuff.Great job!
I like to fill any voids or recess in the end with clear resin or epoxy to prevent water getting in at the end and rotting it out prematurely. Looks pretty smick too I think.
Big big thanks for this video. Dad's old ax just snapped on me.! Boy was it a stress to get the handle off. My solution. Burn the sucker off. I just left it in the stove. Blackens the head but works.. Saves chipping away.
Simeon Banner Unfortunately you may have weakened the steel (or conversely may have hardened the steel) by exposing it to high temperatures. I'm no expert but mechanics are trained to keep their tools away from torches for fear of spoiling the temper. Good luck! en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_%28metallurgy%29
Thanks for the video, I wish I saw it before I put a new handle on my axe , but I did get it pretty close. The glue is a nice tip, I appreciate the info, and your succinctness in conveying the proper techniques, something sadly missing these days! Regards, -Peter
hey man that is very instructional video. i put a new haft on my axe for first time and i did decent. could be better. i feel alot more confident after seeing this video. i have quite the collection of axe heads, now time for some new handles. thanks
Thanks - have a look at the sequel - th-cam.com/video/B4cB_T7OxNY/w-d-xo.html I recycled the sledge hammer handle you see me cut off in this video by carving it down for a rock hammer.
hey great video! I have a double bit michigan pattern axe and a regular cutting axe like yours. Thing is, they always slip out of the handle. I'm a young lad so I like to cut down big trees with them and I do it quite often. Is this a too heavy job for this handling technique? I'm gettin' real tired of always replacing handles!
If you could answer a question I have I would appreciate it. Bassically, I am trying to find out what meterial/wood is best used for the wedge which is inserted into the top of the handle. I have read a few comments that suggest that soft wood is better than hard. Is that true? I am also wondering if useing hickery is applicable?
+qzetu - I never gave it a lot of thought before - I always just bought wedges in a package at the hardware store. But for sure they're always a "soft-hardwood". My guess is maybe willow or poplar, NOT an actual conifer softwood. As for why I think a hardwood might tend to pop out where the soft wedge grips. Hickory, on the other hand is very hard and used for handles.
I am replacing 4 axe handles and 2 splitting maul handles, and I have been watching videos on hanging the tool heads and proper maintenance with linseed oil and all, but I cant find any information on applying paint on the handles. Some tools I notice have half red painted handles and I am wanting to do something similar for three reasons: First as a high visibility feature incase it gets dropped it will be easy to see in the leaves. Secondly, as a way to personalize the axe and make it mine and easily identifiable. And finally as a quick reference measuring point so that I know I have the right size log that will fit into the fireplace. In what part of the process should I add paint? I assume it should be AFTER I have done the saturation with oil because once its on it wont take oil any more? But on that note, is it a bad idea to paint a handle since once it is painted it cant soak up any oil any more? After I have painted it will oiling the handle do anything to the wood where the paint is on it? Thank you and hope to hear from you soon.
Gary Bowen A lot of people find painting the handle questionable but I think your reasoning for painting is airtight and i feel like you know what my answer(s) will be. I would probably look into a red primer and use it when the handle is clean, dry and sanded. I would lay the primer in several coats and a laquer topcoat for a durable finish. I would treat any remaining exposed wood as usual, treating it to frequent oilings. Keep in mind when applying oil only the surface is treated and a little sandpaper will reveal fresh untreated wood. Paint will work the same way, except by adding an exterior layer to seal the wood rather than making a layer of wood that sealing layer. Hope that makes sense.
Split the top of my handle while driving in a steel wedge. Still seems tight, is this something that will compromise the longevity of the handle? And experience with this situation? Thanks
I can't imagine how that would happen. Maybe too much material removed on one side? In any event my guess is it will be unreliable and perhaps even a hazard until sitting straight. I'd probably try again with another handle. Good luck!
Thanks for the fast reply it was just a cheap razorback hatchet handle I didn't remove any material at all really I think it was just cut wrong sucks tho cuz I've already put a lot of lindseed on.
ps: j'aimerais apprendre à bricoler, ça peut rendre service. je connais beaucoup de choses sur les plantes et les arbres mais pour le bricolage je suis nulle ! :X
You've got a lot of great information here, but you go WAY too fast for anyone to read the information provided. Slow down! You don't have to slog through things, but make sure there's enough time to read the words on screen before you move on to your next point.
The only video where I have to pause instead of fast forwarding. Thank you for the awesome straight to the point information. I also like how you acknowledge that other methods are not wrong or not as good. Except for the ones you said where incorrect because of the damage or dangers they produce. Thanks again sir.
Exactly...when I look for a do it yourself video...I almost always pick the shortest one. It shouldn't take 18 minutes to show me how to replace an ax handle, THNX!!!
Almost 10 years since 1st posting, & its still educating and informing thus its timeless. Awsum !
very well done , the video get you into the point without wasting any time , that is how it should be done , thank you
most ismail Thanks! I remember working very hard on that one!
I repaired my broken axe handle today with the help of your video. It turned out quite nice. Thank you very much!
Glad I could help!
Well done. Short. Concise. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
If you have a belt sander, turn it upside down on the bench and it can profile the handle very easily. Also it can be used to touch up the top of the handle sticking out before you install the wedge, making it perfectly flush.
Thanks for the tip!
Great instructional video. Thanks for getting straight to the the point, such a rarity on youtube these days.
Thanks!
Fast paced. Had to stop and rewind several times. Seems like good information and technique. Worth watching, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
the only video I'm aware of where it states how far the head should rest below the kerf! I am attempting my first restoration (Worthington/Mann Anniversary?) and was held up wondering how far past the kerf I should place the head. Good vid!
Rock on, Dick Burns (if indeed that is your real name).
Thank you! Quite well done. You probably should have mentioned that burning the old handle out is NOT recommended. Thank you for the video!
You make a good point, Unclematt.
Thumbs up for the Rome joke. I'm working on restoring grampa's old hatchet. Thanks!
Thanks Trevor! I often think my jokes go completely unnoticed. Good luck!
I also appreciated the tutorial. The joke was just icing on the cake. :-)
When I saw the video was only 4 mins long,I knew what technique you were going to use.The same way one I was taught 50 years ago.the only way to do it and the tool head shaved the wood for a skin tight fit.And it’s rather speedy too!the hell with files and all that other time consuming stuff.Great job!
Fast, simple and quality job. I did a maul right after watching this and the glue isn't even dry yet but know it is done right/
Rock on!
I also epoxy the handle on shovel and other socketed tools. Tool handle replacement is easy, but very few people do it.
When i was a kid. I always wondered why the top of an axe looked like that for? Now i know it is to make it sturdy and secured.
:)
I love these old vids
Me too!
I like to fill any voids or recess in the end with clear resin or epoxy to prevent water getting in at the end and rotting it out prematurely. Looks pretty smick too I think.
This was awesome and surprisingly therapeutic. Great job!
thanks!
Haha, agree. ASMR for men.
Thanks for the nifty information. I've always found it such a pain in the "proverbial" when I have to replace a broken axe or maul handle.
Happy to help, Allan.
Great. Clear and concise!
Excellent video ! Great sharing.
Th-up. I wish you a beautiful new week.
Many thanks! Best wishes.
Awesome video bro, thanks for the tips. I was able to fix an axe and a sledge hammer.
Glad I could help!
Big big thanks for this video. Dad's old ax just snapped on me.! Boy was it a stress to get the handle off. My solution. Burn the sucker off. I just left it in the stove. Blackens the head but works.. Saves chipping away.
Simeon Banner Unfortunately you may have weakened the steel (or conversely may have hardened the steel) by exposing it to high temperatures. I'm no expert but mechanics are trained to keep their tools away from torches for fear of spoiling the temper. Good luck!
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempering_%28metallurgy%29
Thanks for the video, I wish I saw it before I put a new handle on my axe , but I did get it pretty close. The glue is a nice tip, I appreciate the info, and your succinctness in conveying the proper techniques, something sadly missing these days!
Regards,
-Peter
Thanks Peter - I made lots of great videos check them out sometime when you get a chance!
hey man that is very instructional video. i put a new haft on my axe for first time and i did decent. could be better. i feel alot more confident after seeing this video. i have quite the collection of axe heads, now time for some new handles. thanks
Rock on, Chad!
Something with a little heft hahaha awesome video thanks mate
Glad you enjoyed it. I've made over 150 videos but this is one of my personal faves!
thanks for a great video eh, it made me a bit homesick eh. i‘ll replace my half-ax handle tomorrow, now that i know what to do. 🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
Beauty, eh? Rock on, Andrew!
Good job, fast and to the point!!
Thanks, Bill.
Very nicely explained, thanks!
I did not know the half inch rule thanks!
Rock on!
Thank you, very well done
Thanks - have a look at the sequel - th-cam.com/video/B4cB_T7OxNY/w-d-xo.html
I recycled the sledge hammer handle you see me cut off in this video by carving it down for a rock hammer.
Nice! Simple to the point instructions, many thanks sir.
I just repeatedly beat the wedge into my axe until there was no more wedge left. Without glue. Will that still work ?
Did people ever then soak the completed assembly in water to make the wood expand?
Yes ! However it's just a temporary fix cuz the wood shrinks back to normal once it dries. Soaking in oil has much longer lasting results.
@@repairs101 pheww, then my pops didn’t lie to me!
This helped a lot
Glad it was helpful
hey great video! I have a double bit michigan pattern axe and a regular cutting axe like yours. Thing is, they always slip out of the handle. I'm a young lad so I like to cut down big trees with them and I do it quite often. Is this a too heavy job for this handling technique? I'm gettin' real tired of always replacing handles!
Thank you sir.
Most welcome.
If you could answer a question I have I would appreciate it. Bassically, I am trying to find out what meterial/wood is best used for the wedge which is inserted into the top of the handle. I have read a few comments that suggest that soft wood is better than hard. Is that true? I am also wondering if useing hickery is applicable?
+qzetu - I never gave it a lot of thought before - I always just bought wedges in a package at the hardware store. But for sure they're always a "soft-hardwood". My guess is maybe willow or poplar, NOT an actual conifer softwood. As for why I think a hardwood might tend to pop out where the soft wedge grips. Hickory, on the other hand is very hard and used for handles.
+Repairs101 Thank you for your video and response.
:)
Very good. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
My husband uses a drill and drills out the broken handle that's left inside the head when its hard to knock out.
Man you should sell your carvings. Great video. I've got some extra epoxy sitting around would that work better than wood glue by chance?
Thanks Mike! No problem using epoxy instead.
@@repairs101 thanks for the quick reply!
Thanks. I take it with the steel wedges, that you don't cut a kerf. Is that correct?
I always cut or use an existing kerf. See this other video of mine for more on this subject.
th-cam.com/video/B4cB_T7OxNY/w-d-xo.html
I am replacing 4 axe handles and 2 splitting maul handles, and I have been watching videos on hanging the tool heads and proper maintenance with linseed oil and all, but I cant find any information on applying paint on the handles. Some tools I notice have half red painted handles and I am wanting to do something similar for three reasons: First as a high visibility feature incase it gets dropped it will be easy to see in the leaves. Secondly, as a way to personalize the axe and make it mine and easily identifiable. And finally as a quick reference measuring point so that I know I have the right size log that will fit into the fireplace.
In what part of the process should I add paint? I assume it should be AFTER I have done the saturation with oil because once its on it wont take oil any more? But on that note, is it a bad idea to paint a handle since once it is painted it cant soak up any oil any more? After I have painted it will oiling the handle do anything to the wood where the paint is on it?
Thank you and hope to hear from you soon.
Gary Bowen A lot of people find painting the handle questionable but I think your reasoning for painting is airtight and i feel like you know what my answer(s) will be. I would probably look into a red primer and use it when the handle is clean, dry and sanded. I would lay the primer in several coats and a laquer topcoat for a durable finish. I would treat any remaining exposed wood as usual, treating it to frequent oilings. Keep in mind when applying oil only the surface is treated and a little sandpaper will reveal fresh untreated wood. Paint will work the same way, except by adding an exterior layer to seal the wood rather than making a layer of wood that sealing layer. Hope that makes sense.
Helpful wee video😬👍🏻
Glad to hear that
Split the top of my handle while driving in a steel wedge. Still seems tight, is this something that will compromise the longevity of the handle? And experience with this situation? Thanks
Yes, they do split. Me, I don't worry about it.
Assuming the split doesn't show on the handle side of the tool head you should have no problem.
Thank you much!
Good video. There are too many axe videos with out any information on them.
Glad you think so! I am quite proud of this vid but it never gained the traction it deserves.
Some detail in here that most other vids miss
I know, right?
Do you pound a steel wedge into the wood wedge, or do you use either wood or steel, but not both?
You drive the steel wedge into the wood wedge at 90 deg.
Awesome
Thanks!
Good info
Thanks
Can you use a screw to temporary keep the handle tight and if so please reply what kind of screw to use
Did you not watch the video?
Thank you.
Thanks, great info!
Terrific!
thank you
:)
I did my hatchet and when you look down the handle the head is leaning left is that bad?
I can't imagine how that would happen. Maybe too much material removed on one side? In any event my guess is it will be unreliable and perhaps even a hazard until sitting straight. I'd probably try again with another handle. Good luck!
Thanks for the fast reply it was just a cheap razorback hatchet handle I didn't remove any material at all really I think it was just cut wrong sucks tho cuz I've already put a lot of lindseed on.
Terrific ~ Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
very good!!!
ps: j'aimerais apprendre à bricoler, ça peut rendre service. je connais beaucoup de choses sur les plantes et les arbres mais pour le bricolage je suis nulle ! :X
Brilliant but slow it down a bit! Fair amount to take in
That's what pause is for.
Why didn't you just burn the handle off ?
You could ruin the temper of the axe head that way.
You never put an axe from the side where it should end ,its gonna fall of.
I just can't say it again , just great
Looks like you should have put the heads further down onto the shoulder. Two ways to skin a cat I guess.
th-cam.com/video/g0aC6xOppio/w-d-xo.html
get your mineral oil at a farm supply co, 1gal jug for next to nothing, I think i paid $12. Used as animal laxitive ;)
666dynomax Great tip! Thanks!
i like the abuse on the vice , cop on ffs.
You've got a lot of great information here, but you go WAY too fast for anyone to read the information provided. Slow down! You don't have to slog through things, but make sure there's enough time to read the words on screen before you move on to your next point.
Thanks for the tip. I made that video several years ago and hope my editing has improved since then.
@@repairs101 no problem! After watching, I managed to knock the broken haft out of my favorite single bit. Thanks!