ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- This process uses Nylon rope and epoxy to make a tough handle wrap for your axe. It's easy to do and inexpensive, and it will take you far less time and money than it does to replace a handle. It also looks bad-ass.
Note to axe 'experts': yes, I realize that I'm using it as a maul. I also know that you shouldn't swing at a piece that's behind another- I did that for the demonstration, and luckily my handle guard proved as tough as I was hoping it would.
Consider that the video footage was mostly close-up in this video, but MATT is actually a pretty heavy axe with a long handle. I use it for splitting medium logs and dead wood.
And about the mushrooming: that abuse came from the axe's last owner. The mushroomed steel poses no threat, because I don't hit this axe with a sledge.
Common complaints:
► *Just use a maul.*
Yes, I'm using an axe to split here. It is a heavy axe, so it works great for light splitting. I do not use MATT to halve full logs.
► *Mushrooming is dangerous!*
That abuse came from the axe's last owner. The mushroomed steel poses no threat, because I don't hit this axe with a sledge.
► *Learn how to split/aim.*
I struck at the back of the log on purpose, for demonstration. As you could then see, it can take a hit. I normally aim to knock a slice from off the side, and I never aim at a piece that's in the back.
You don't use MATT to halve full logs? what's MATT?
@@aggraphine Oh ok thank you
If the axe has been struck by a sledge or was used as a sledge in the past and the butt is mushroomed, it could have stress fractures within, up to and including the eye. A good test for that is having your tool tested with magnetic penetrate.. Hope you epoxy plan works out for you long term, but I’m not putting any money on it as epoxy does become brittle in time if not captured.. Good luck.
How's Matt holding up?
Amazingly well. The epoxy/rope combination is way stronger than I would have expected. Many hours of splitting now after four months, and I can totally recommend.
"You don't really want to see more epoxy footage, do you?"
*Peter Brown sheepishly raises his hand...*
LMFAO!!!!!!! Seriously, hahaha Peter brown Loves his Epoxy! A little to much if you ask me.
More like he slams his desk exclaiming that there isn't enough.
yes, yes we do.....
I used to watch your videos before I had any inclination for DIY or craft, just because they were interesting and relaxing videos to watch.
Now that i've developed an interest and built up a collection of tools, and projects to put them to use I have been rewatching these and learning so many valuable tips.
Just wanted to say thanks, DIY dad.
Great. Feel free to swing by any time to cut some grass. Just don't ask for any money.
I used an aramid fabric with epoxy to make a brace for my boy's axe. Layered aluminum foil over it as well to stop the fibers from degrading in sunlight, but mostly I think it just looks cool. It's much thinner than rope, which I like for handling, and thus far it's survived some zealous incompetence. It definitely prevents the neck from splintering, which is an improvement.
This morning I was going to add similar grips/guards onto the shaft and handle of a old shovel I'm restoring, but decided to be unproductive and watch some videos after I realized I only had short pieces of rope. (I didn't want to struggle/have weak joins that would fray over time or make it difficult to wrap in the first place; just one of those lazier mornings, what can I say). Well, leave it to Pocket to call me out on my procrastination/excuses! Call it serendipity or whatever you like that you happened to post this when you did, I'm just very appreciative of the time, energy, and effort you put into your videos- and currently very glad you encouraged me to suck it up and get started. So many things in life get delayed or avoided because we don't feel like we have the "perfect" conditions, materials or circumstances. You are always reminding me that with some creative/divergent thinking, motivation, and acceptance of the occasional failure, there is very little that is impossible (and very few excuses for not doing what needs to get done!). Thanks again; when I'm able to use my shovel before the snow starts falling it will be partly due to your inspiration and encouragement.
"If it's not abrasion resistant, then it's not going to resist abrasion" -pocket83, 2018
"people die if they are killed"
@@BrysinBarnwell "The Archer class really is made made up of archers!"
"No matter where ya go,......... there ya are"
@@Ervdawg57 And when ya get there ya can say "Here I Am!"
I almost missed the picture you spliced in just after you peeled the epoxy off your brush.
I can't believe I watched 20 minutes of applying epoxy on an ax... and I ENJOYED it!
Well done!
-- Old Matt
I am using a piece of cord on my axe for 6+ years, and it works like a charm. I didn't use any kind of epoxy and I think that it is better, because the rope remains elastic and reduces the impact in case of a slip. Also I just knotted it on the handle with a knot we call "takling" in german.
My solution is welded metal handles. I've made a 18" handle for a hatchet from a 1/8"x1-1/2" flat bar and it turned out pretty good and balanced. I have a fireman's axe head I made a 27" handle for from 3/16"x1-1/2" flat bar with oak grips. It's not designed for chopping firewood but I like it. I'm working on a double bit axe right now that I plan on cutting wood with.
There is a knot called a frap that would work well for this. You make a loop on the surface and then wrap the cord around it. When you get to the end you tuck it into the loop and pull it under the wrapping and trim the other end. It leaves no exposed end to break off. I used it on a sword handle and it worked really well.
A common whipping knot is what the poster was describing and is arguably more simple than a square knot and leaves a much better finish.
Frapping is the word for wraps between the spars in some lashing techniques. I don't know how a square knot makes any sense in this context, unless Gary meant West Country whipping....
I did this to two axes in 1980 that are still good. I used a much smaller braid and made a couple or three wraps. Use the bottom of a beer can for mixing and you'll save a buttload of epoxy. i coated the braid on the outside making it durable as hell. The smaller braid covered in expoxy leaves a smooth, slick finish.YMMV
Just a suggestion:
When the back of an axe head starts mushrooming on the sides, you should grind the mushrooming off, because if you don’t it could break off and end up lodged in your head, or anyone (or any animals) near you. Along with this, I strongly recommend adding a slight chamfer (knocking the corners off) so the inevitable mushrooming can be reduced and slowed to ab absolute minimum. Just be careful not to hit the corners of the chamfers because they could also break off and fly at things or people, that is, if the axe is hardened.
Just wanted to give my two cents. A little safety goes a long way! :D
I no longer feel pain because of the axe fragment that's lodged in my brain. Until the day when it will finally kill me, my powers will continue to increase.
@@pocket83squared axe demographic huh?
Think of it as a Venn Diagram; there is a convergence of safety advocates and tool-specific proponents that will occasionally remind me that there is no safe place to hide here on TH-cam. Advocacy groups are omnipresent, and no action or opinion is free from the dissuasive influence of criticism.
Crabs in a bucket, or the propulsion system of improvement? You decide. I just make the videos.
@@pocket83squared or you could call it "caring for you (? ..about you? ..just plain caring?), to ensure you can keep making great content"... Because in this case that's what it is... (I remember you being more appreciative when I reminded you of that before you carpolished the head XD) But if you really don't like suggestions that actually make sense, then why not turn off comments alltogether? =)
The first time I hear a suggestion, and as long as it's not too preachy, I appreciate it. After a dozen or so of the exact same thing, it gets pretty tedious. Especially when the 'danger' is exaggerated. On the whole, safety advice is no different than any other unsolicited opinion: did I ask? No? Then keep it to yourself.
Now watch as this useless piece of unrelated procedural dogma becomes top comment. That is, until I delete it. Also note that I don't use MATT as a wedge, so I am at zero risk. The mushrooming was from the previous owner.
This is like an ASMR special.
I love the macro shots too.
One of your many great strengths are those really good quality closeups. Nice video.
Thank you. Glad you liked it ;)
This video inspired me to do the same thing with suede lace...did 2 layers, works super well....super strong. On my next, I'll go one layer lace, one layer solid heavy leather, which won't cut. The suede cuts, but doesn't break the axe.
you can try using a heat shrink that has a glue for water proofing inside it, put it on the axe and heat it up to shrink it on .the glue inside melts and then sets again when it cools down .two layers of this will last quite some time and when needed to be replaced just heat it up and cut it off while soft and then replace.
Regarding epoxy tips and tricks: When trying to coat things with epoxy (like the top coat you applied), I usually add some acetone to the epoxy to make it more spreadable and to help it wick in.
For mixing, I just use an old glue-bound catalog. Rip one cover off, mix epoxy on the exposed page, when done, rip off the page and you're ready to go. It's free, it gives more room to work with than tape, and you can pick it up and move it if you need to reposition your work..
If I need a brush or spatula, I just use a putty knife or a hoghair flux brush. Clean up is quick and effortless. I have a jar of lacquer thinner that I use for cleaning small things. All it takes is a couple dunks and wipes with a paper towel.
The old time choppers here in Nova Scotia used 19 gauge galvanized wire to wrap a guard. Take about 20 feet and tie one end to the shed. Walk back and tack the other end to the axe handle right behind the eye. Pull tight and walk to the shed with good tension on the wire. Tap each row next to the other with an axe file. Get to the shed, unhook wire - tap a tack into the axe handle and snug wire around - tap tack into handle - done. Lasts for many years and really saves your handle from overstrikes.
I really new to any woodworking, and only just bought my first hatchet since I was a Boy Scout about 45 years ago. I found a lot of this video very helpful both in its content and the comments. Thank you.
To everyone thinking a maul is better. Some pepole like a maul and some like an axe, if the axe has the right profile (thickness at the cheeks) it will split like crazy. Or if the axe has a heavier weight it will also split well.
wow finally a new vid of Pocket. so i can sleep ( i been binge watching you to help me sleep)
Another great video pocket! I don’t know if anyone else noticed this, but one of the older copper wire epoxy stirrers that you used had a patina near the top, but the lower end that actually mixes the epoxy has been preserved by the residue left behind. Anyway, I thought it was interesting.
As far as expoying rope, I have seen similar applications done using a funnel. Feed the rope in the funnel first, then fill the funnel with glue and pull the rope through the other side. EDIT: Is that an actual bionicle
Indeed, I believe so.
That sounds like a great strategy
I have used the exact process, only using thread, to fix my broken glasses, and used Super Glue. The finished product was stronger then the original joint, and once the thread was saturated in glue, it just looked like a piece of black plastic. I will use this technique often. Thanks.
And the axe restoration saga continues
Also those bloopers were spot on Lettuce Mayo And Onions
this isn't axe restoration, it's an upgrade, if it was restoring it you would be making it like new.
I have a pile of axes that I'm servicing, so it's kind of a mini-series.
@@pocket83squared best mini series in youtube
I wanted to cry when I saw the mushrooming on that axe
why
Ruger Rugged because the butt of an axe is not hardened, and not intended to be used as a hammer, unlike the butt of a maul. Using an axe in this fashion can cause significant damage, and increases the likelihood of metal fragments splintering from the head and contacting you.
@@rugerrugged9594 and it looks ugly mushroomed
@@airmobiledivision7759 it shows it was used as a hammer, which also can deform the eye, making it hold not nearly as well.
Overdrive sucks when cutting wood. You've inspired me to do a bit of tlc on my axe, thanks!
Overstrike*
Depending on how you value your own time, it would probably be easier / cheaper for most people to simply purchase a Fiskars splitting axe. But this is a cool idea, and I did enjoy the video.
Matthew Clausing good solution. Fiskars are reasonably priced. Steel sharpens easily.
Nice footage. Cool honest learning process, thank you.
When it comes to the splitting logs like this - never try to acommplish in a first hit. Choose the path betveen branches, preferably butt log upward, make a first hit aiming to a corner towards from you. When the wood fiber cracks a little, proceed with a second hit on side closer to you from the log center. Thats how you never hit the handle and save energy. Nice axe and good luck ;]
You can tell that Matt has suffered a lot of abuse in his life. I'm glad he's got you now to treat him right.
He was definitely in a tough relationship. Some people just expect too much!
There is no project where there is no approach with bike tubes or pvc pipe xD
Watching your videos always helps me to think out of the box, thanks
bike tube, pvc pipe... I'm sure up next he will find a way to improve his axes with golf balls. :D
Omg yes 😂 official request @pocket83² please find a way to incorporate golf balls into the design of an axe in a functional way. I DESIGN CHALLENGE THEE!!!
Homunkoloss I was waiting for a halved golf ball to show up
I find the safety comment conundrum fascinating. As a viewer I have found them useful for tools I don't have experience with, but I can see where having the same stupid comment over and over every time you use a tool in a video, cascading down through the years as the video remains on youtube... well, that would get annoying. And nothing is ever just dangerous, it's always extremely dangerous.
Of course, it could always be an opportunity. Write a mini booklet of safety advice for each tool you use, only $10 for the e-book version! "This video sponsored by the Pocket83 safety booklet! Buy now before supplies of this e-book run out!"
And if you act now, it's free, just pay shipping and handling(which is conveniently more than the cost of the booklet and a small profit)
I find that it is easier to push the epoxy out when it is warm. So I will warm it with just body heat in my hands. Just a thought. Love your work!
I weld a steel wedge on the underside. It saves the handle and it also splits the wood that wrecks your handle.
Haha...love that!
My unsolicited advice is to end it with a clove hitch. When you cover or soak it in epoxy, it essentially becomes a micarta covering.
Haha. Experimental suggestions are awesome. That's not the same thing! But how do you mean? Like, how could you tie the knot without making a big bump?
pocket83² a Clove hitch would be two layers at one point, but it doesn’t stand far proud of the whipping around the handle. I do walking sticks and knife handles in the same manner. Bushcraters whip, French whip and braid over just about everything for some reason with paracord, jute, hemp or tarred bankline.
What i normally do for my axes, is i first wrap with thin steel string (1mm), not the braided kind, but the solid ones.. after i've wrapped it all in a thin one, i then do another wrap in one thicker steel string like (2mm-3mm) lasts for ever :)
Pocket83 is the only guy that can make a video about wrapping rope around an axe entertaining.
What about rubber from tyres? Those suckers can't really be disposed of in a proper way, so I try to make any excuse to harvest the material. What with all the stones and potholes, they are made to take a beating.
if you can find a way to easily apply it to an axe handle i would love to see that. but from what i've seen on how to make tire it's not easy, and require a lot of heat and a mold.
@@BloodSprite-tan either this - or just epoxy a square piece of tire to the handle with a clamp :)
@@BloodSprite-tan I was thinking cutting a piece of rubber from an existing tyre, then gluing it on top of the rope and epoxy. I imagine CA glue would bond well enough between the rubber and hardened epoxy.
Tire is brutal to cut. Every time I try to craft something with it, the steel radials remind me again of why they just end up dumped over a hill somewhere. Still, you're a good person for trying! If you must persist, maybe try a mountain bike tire, since it will be waaaaay easier to wrap.
pocket83² a hefty bmx or cruiser tire would be ideal. Also with bicycle tires often the only steel in them is in the bead. The casing of the tire is generally made of rubber and Kevlar/cotton/nylon fibers
I find tarred twine works very well for this, no glue or epoxy needed it binds super tight and the tar causes it to grip and not come loose, I then sometimes will use leather over top for appearance but not always.
You could use a length of STEAM PIPE that is used between train cars. This stuff is really tough and slips over the handle and is sometimes the right size to make it tight... Works for me...
I had to laugh. As if the early settlers had access to two part epoxy. Nice video.
In my former line of work we worked with epoxy a lot. We used cleaning vinegar to clean off residual epoxy. I thought it was neat way of getting “unsticky”
I did similar with much smaller nylon line and used a couple wraps with epoxy between the layers and a layer of epoxy on the outside.
I'm still using both axes today. The very thin outside layer soaked into the twins leaving it slick and strong.
Nice. I use the same method with thread and superglue to repair smaller items, from headphone jacks to arms on eyeglasses. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video... I think covering the rope with something like shoe goo might be better though. It's basically liquid rubber, which seems like it would take multiple impacts better since it's flexible.
As someone who works extensively with epoxy, when using the amount your using, best to mix it on a card with lollipop stick, when finnished sump it all in the bin
I enjoy watching you apply the epoxy. It's kinda relaxing.
We used baling wire when we were young. Start with the end over the head of the axe handle. Go down about 4 inches below where the axe head will sit. Wrap up tightly to below where the head will seat and end up with the wire end running up under the axe head. Reattach the axe head, wedge it and the wire will be a strong and long lasting repair.
Rawhide could be interesting. Applied wet it will shrink/constrict when drying, if I remember correctly.
I wonder what the added compression will do for handle stability?
I have thought to use rawhide for an axe of mine. One can make an whole axehandle of rawhide too but probably only up to a certain weight and with a holeless bit. People on the prairie and steppe used bone and rawhide, lacking wood, for many applications.
You keep that kinda thing up and you'll start attracting the bionicle crowd lol
It's too late, he's poked the bear... or bohrok rather :P
It's already started 😲
Matter of fact, it's gettin my dogs tail a waggin purty hard!!
Hello, thank you for sharing a novel way to extend the longevity of the axe handle! Appreciated. Could you let me know if the guard still does its job propertly after 3 years? Thanks!
Strongest guard ever. Highly recommended. The handle in this video broke for other reasons, but the guard was still like new at the time. I then replaced it with an identical, and _that_ guard is now working on its third season under year-round use. As of September 2022, there is one small chip removed from the epoxy. I'll get around to filling it in sooner or later ;)
I've done wraps like that. I usually secure the ends by drilling a hole perpendicular through the handle and running the end of the rope through the hole. I use a small wooden pin or wedge to lock the rope or cord in place. In the centerline, it doesn't affect the strength of the handle to any noticeable degree. For thinner cord, it's possible to tuck the ends under the wraps instead. Never used epoxy though. Mostly used paint or varnish to soak the rope/cord and adhere it to the handle. For an axe that'll see a lot of log-splitting, I prefer to make a metal guard.I've no idea about how much better it'd be according to some factual scale, but since you don't have to wait for it to set, a metal guard is probably overall faster to make. And less bulky, if that's important to you.
Pretty cool!! Love the look of "Matt", nice tool!!
I loved the video and the axe handle is beautiful great work !
Just a little tip to anyone doing this, if you wrap some clear packaging tape around the epoxy while it’s a bit less runny it will keep it smooth so you don’t have to sand it down as much or even at all. Usually the cheaper stuff works better because it’s less sticky and easier to take off when the epoxy dries.
Nicely done and it sucks being so old and remembering when epoxy was almost impossible to purchase commercially . I sometimes use epoxy and fine sawdust for a wood filler . Thanks for your video and ATB .
Do you enjoy splitting wood?
Wood wasn’t a staple source of heat in my house, so I’ve never spent a summer splitting wood. But on occasion I would get the chance to do it. I’ve always found some sort of zen while chopping away, it was almost relaxing.
Perhaps this enjoyment only comes because I never had to do it day after day.
Similar story here. I just need it for the garage.
Wood chopping and wood stoves are fun until you have to do it daily. I've house sat for a few places where the wood stoves were the only source of heat. First night was a novelty. After that, nopity nope.
As an iron worker, we used tie wire. The metal wire used to tie rebar. Then we would wrap that with black athletic tape. I see your epoxy, cracking and breaking with a solid hit
Eventually, sure. But it's also easy to fix.
You should cut off the ends of a soda bottle and shrink it onto the rope using a heat gun works real well 👍🏼
That's exactly how i made my guard but without the epoxy.Took some fabric tape and put it around beneath the axe head,then I wrapped it in some thin climbing rope.Thing is as sturdy as heck
It’s been 4 years, update? Looks amazing
"Imagine the early pioneers, they had to mix their epoxy in a lead pot!"
I see two problems here...
¹
28
small tip - brush into the wood with the grain. it gives better penetration/coverage. not a whole lot, but a significant amount
Leather and lace works much better than epoxy for this and can be replaced IF you ever wear the leather down. That epoxy will chip and chunk out in no time if you split alot. Also, to replace that epoxied rope will require an angle grinder. The leather has the added bonus of looking awesome.
This guard lasted the entire season. Constant splitting. No chunks. This method is nearly indestructible. The handle ended up breaking elsewhere. Leather and lace is a joke in comparison.
Another really great option would be to have used cut up denim jeans for this and use it more as a wrap with 2-3 layers. You were probably not able to get any compression with the rope. At least not a significant amount, or enough to make the wood stronger (e.g. Prince Ruperts Drop). I don't think the Compression would have helped honestly you would break the epoxy & rope off long before you snapped that handle. Unless you think you can break off the head without breaking the epoxy, and if you can do that, I don't think you would be complaining that much about splitting wood.
Jean material is a _really_ great idea.
As for compression, I think there's some in there. Follow me here, because this gets abstract. The rope might not have been drawn tight enough to add compressive force by itself, but the epoxy moves into the fibers and then really solidifies the whole deal. Thus, while in a neutral state it might not be causing compression, but as its rigidity is called to action during the deformation that takes place immediately following an impact, it's going to cause compression as it resists the change in shape. A compressive wave will move through the medium. A crude analogy would be to bending your finger with a knuckle-bandage.
Well made point, in either case. Also, we're a bit off-track; since the rope proved to work so well in practice, to what extent there is a compressive force is mostly incidental (at least beyond physics curiosity).
I have used cotton fabric and epoxy to do the same thiing before, and it is amazingly strong. Just takes longer, as you do one layer at a time and repeat for the number of layers you need.
The only thing I worry about using paracord and 5 miinute epoxy is if 5 minutes is enough for the epoxy to fully penetrate the paracord.
I can hear 5 thousand loggers crying in protest at what you are doing to an ax.
After putting on the epoxy you should wrap it with rubber tube then leather so it will help absorb the blows just seeing that first blow shows me that it might not last long unless you wrap it again ..just giving my advice ..nice video..
I wonder if pocket's made any improvements to his iso-path game yet.
Me too, I absolutely love isopath! I would love to see more videos about it.
Always excited when I see a new video upload👍😁
For my hammer I use rope too but no epoxy. Only because I had rope and nothing better to do at the time. Nice touch with epoxy. I went to school for carpentry and sometimes people borrow your hammer and they can’t aim. The string helped, but a nail would just go in between the strands. Expoxy would of been perfect
At the fire station we use 12 gauge solid wire and hockey tape.
Make a video, like to see that
The next time I need to do it I'll try to remember to video it. It's quite easy to do. We also wrap the portion of the handles where we put our hands the same way except we space the wire about 1 inch apart with each wrap. It makes holding the tool so much easier when you're wearing bulky wet firefighting gloves.
@@rmsg7504
tuck the end under the last loop, then secure it with epoxy to hardness...thanks for the demo
I hoped you’ve learned there are better versions of epoxy for this type of thing. Different consistency and differing dry times. But you succeeded, well mostly.
Nice job all in all.
Wow, that was condescending. I used general purpose 5 minute set, because that's what I keep in my shop. Mostly? It ended up outlasting the handle. Why would I buy another epoxy when this one worked so well?
Slow down !
I meant no insult at all only attempting to inform you of easier ways for your benefit . The difficulty you SEEMED to have with the thickness is avoidable so I looked to see if others had already said so . I found none so tried to help you for future problems of that nature. I’ve used the different forms of epoxy on yachts and other repairs so thought I’d share. I’m glad for you it worked as good as it did.
Now take a deep breath and accept friendly help. We’d get along.
Using a toothbrush getting into the grooves of the rope deeper works, you can smooth It enough so it’s not abrasive. 101 different ways to make a repair isn’t there? That first miss after a repair hurts, doesn’t it!!
Subbed, due to how you dealt with the knobbers in the comments section.
it works well to tuck the ends of the rope under itself, pulling it under and up. once it dries, you just clip off the tip sticking up.
I had a leather expert wrap mine with laces on the back. Simple, strong, and looks good. The leather can take a strike better than the epoxy.
I use construction adhesive/liquid nails and poly baling twine. Liquid nails is good as its a rubber bassed compound and has a bit of give in itBelieve epoxy will be to brittle and chip
Just cut a long strip from a bicycle tire, and wrap that area, tucking in the end. The rubber absorbs shock and gives enough to protect the handle and to resist abrasion. If you want, you can cut a tubu
Welcome to the world of fiber reenforced plastics!
Rubbing alcohol is what I use to clean up epoxy spills, and acetone also works well. Acetone can also be used to thin epoxy. You can use heat, like you did, if you don't mind speeding up the cure. Working in a cold shop will lengthen the working time.
For real though Matt looks super handsome! I would just worry that the apoxy will crack since it's relatively brittle. I'm loving all these axe videos! I really hope we get an update.
"Five minute epoxy".... that's just the name of it. Like the " 24 hour dry cleaners" I took my jacket to.
Nice job. I'll have to give it a try.
Always aim for the front edge facing you and it enters easier, splits easier and don't hit your handle. Don't split the back side either rotate it or walk around it. Hard to beat rawhide soaked, sewn on tight and then let shrink while drying. Tough stuff. Besides it's something to do while sitting around the camp fire and drinking a beer.
It was a demonstration. Anybody who has split five rounds before knows not to aim for the back. And there is no way that rawhide is as tough as this stuff. Not that I wouldn't like that type of guard on a smaller axe, like a limber that I don't split with. MATT is used more like a light maul.
I made a walking stick I wraped it with trot line. I mixed epoxy together and smeared it all over the stick with gloves hands. 4 years and thousands of miles later it's still not unraveling. I've also never had to make a repair.
Yeah gloved hands 5.00 a box at Tractor Supply good idea. I guess nail biters could care less.
Great work. I think the rope should keep it from breaking off, but there isnt much give. Coating it with rubber afterward might be a good move. Even a spray rubber... Perhaps an actual splitting axe would serve you well.
Interesting video.
When I mix up bondo or epoxy, I use cut up pieces of gift cards, they work really good to mix or apply the epoxy.
You must get a lot of gift cards ;)
8:00 I don't know if they have those in the US, but we have a kitchen tool we call a "pan licker" which is basically a silicone spatula with tapered sides making it super useful to clean out pots and pans. It is mostly used for pastry baking but you can use it for gravy or just to pre-clean before sticking stuff in the dishwasher. You can operate it pulling (spreading or whiping, depending on how hard you push) or pushing (scooping). In your case, you'd use the scooping. We got them in a wide variety of shapes and sizes too. I know your channel is about the creating things, but in this case, I thought the effective use of base materials is slightly more important than the creativity of making a spatula tool... ( I hope this link works. I put it here for the picture reference, not for the price because these particular ones are a bit expensive if you ask me... Dollar store versions are equally efficient. www.bol.com/nl/p/uulki-3-delige-pannenlikker-deegschraper-spatel-set-uit-europees-beukenhout-met-rubber-kop-pannenlikkers-klein-medium-groot-pottenlikker-pannelikker-set/9200000070313511/?suggestionType=browse&bltgh=j4IavkzIB2i3SCYj-zlNFw.1.8.ProductImage )
Yes. We just call that a (silicone) spatula, I think. Mrs. pocket has a little one but I am not allowed to 'borrow' it. Yet.
@@pocket83squared and that is keeping you? =D
if you fray the end's then burn said ends and while there melted put them together as one rope they actually look like one rope and they are really pretty strong .i mean put them together melted point to melted point and let cool works great
That epoxy ties in with the fibers of the twine and it'll take tons abuse. I've have good results with twine and latex chalk too. Good video. Thumbs up.
Not to sound pedantic or anything but the time duration in the name of the epoxy is the open time, not the cure time. Like, how much time can you work with it until it becomes unreversably set.
Sure, no worries. But even that is inaccurate. I suppose it's just to give you an extra time cushion, because in all likelihood you aren't fully prepared when you mix it! Seriously though- epoxy just doesn't have a definite line between solid and liquid. There's lots of variables that affect the speed at which it will change.
@@pocket83squared Of course, temperature and humidity highly affects cure time for epoxy and even the 5min barrier is just a prescriptive duration, but still saying "it's not cured after 5 minutes" is misunderstanding why the time is there at all.
I'd love to see a recap video to see what that thing looks like in a week and that overstrike was your fault
That was November. It's now March. I split all winter long, and it has held up great. I aimed at the back of the log on purpose for the video.
For many years I have wrapped handles in rope like that and then painted on multiple coats of Marine Spar Poly Varnish it will soak in and set up hard as a rock and is very very tough. It is also much easier.
Those close up shots at around 13:30 were very well done
I hear you can grind off that mushrooming and use it to make stew.
dude i would just put a piece of thick leather, rubber or plastic around punch holes in it and lace it one like a shoe. It is free or cheap works fine and can easily be replaced
Sounds great. You should make a video of that.
I found jute twine follow by clear guerrilla glue then sanded with a 4 or 600 grit sandpaper makes for a perfect grip. 👍🏼
I would recommend a Fisker splitting mall works real good has a lifetime guarantee and is pretty much impossible to break
That thing is an inelegant club. It's better suited to an Orc than to a skillful splitter. I made a video explaining why I prefer this heavy axe to something like that. However, if you are going through large rounds, I can understand its purpose; it's not for mine, though.