Thank you! This is the best scribing demonstration I've seen so far because you demonstrated the different types of scribing tools and where they work best. Most who have made videos such as this just show one tool and of course they apply it to some simple example without showing the issues pertaining to the scribing tool e.g. compass rotating etc. I had to find this out myself. A compass can work but only with a great deal of patience to avoid rotation. This is difficult when scribing a very long vertical section with difficult access to monitor the tool. Also, the compass has to have a totally smooth surface on one side so that it can glide smoothly along the surface. On top of that. it will not easily pick up very large and very small surface variations and the list of pain goes on and on. Out of sheer frustration, I bought a specific scribing tool that was not a compass ( different brand names eg. Profiler is one I bought) but they too have problems depending on the shape of the tool and the surface to be scribed. I was sweating it out. I had to scribe an old window frame with horizontal and vertical mullions to fit a piece of wood across it. So that's a long vertical section with lots of protrusions and each mullion was contoured as well. Because of the way the scriber was shaped it was not well suited to scribing the mullions' varying contours. It simply did not work for this application. I went in search of different scribing tools and found the contour gauge ( different brand to Saker). That helped a lot but also has the same problem you described with the protrusion on each end of the contour gauge. I also needed to re-position the gauge multiple times going up the window because of course the gauge is short. However, it really is the best tool out there for scribing because it does not have the rotation error that can happen easily with a compass, and it very precisely copies the contours, unlike a compass or my Profiler scribing tool. Even so, I still have some challenges ahead with my window. Once I sort those out, I'll make a video because it will help others too.
I was looking for how to cut geometric shapes in flooring plank. Great video and excellent way of explaining - explained details calmly and clearly. Excellent stepping stone for me.
That Saker tool looks quite nice and a time saver if doing a lot, but for very occasional use, I like to simply put a nail through a 90deg drilled hole in the width of a carpenters pencil and use that as a guide along the stone surface. Cheap, quick, and easy.
Good lord! Super helpful I've often wondered how these tasks were managed...genius...thank you! Love yr videos, yr humor and instruction so glad I found yr channel...thanks!
I was very frustrated by the number of lumps and bumps in my kitchen walls, and was terrified to install the scribe molding to fit them in. You showed me how to scribe them in, and so far they are nearly perfect (thanks especially to the tip of filing the back side of the material). I still have a few more to go, but thought I would comment my appreciation from America as I look at my work of today and enjoy a pint. Thanks!
Great video and excellent demonstration. A fence builder left a huge gap (8 inches on the right end and tapers down to about 3 inches on the other end) between the deck and the fence. I was wondering how to transfer the shape to a piece of 2x6. Your method will work great. Thanks!
Great video. I came upon your site while looking for a review of this product. I liked the way you explained it both visually and verbally. I’m going to subscribe not only based on the way you presented the information but the sarcasm you displayed on your face and in your voice. Loved the humor. I do have one question. How do you determine, for example, if you’re scribing the end of a shelf against a wall, how far away from the edge do you go in since the other end has to fit against the opposite end of the other wall. A space in the wall is 4’ wide. So the shelf will be 4’ wide. How do you determine where to start the scribe so the finished shelf fits snugly in on both side ?
Hi Evan, thank you, my wife keeps saying leave the humour in, I'm not sure TH-cam is ready for that level of humour. 😁 Anyway to your question. I would pick a point in the middle of each wall, doesn't really matter where it is as long as you mark it on both the piece being scribed and the back wall. This becomes your reference point that you scribe from. hope that helps. 👍
Graham, your section on the multiple scribes to rough stone was particularly helpful, especially the information on establishing reference points and lines when the 10" Saker scribe tool must be applied several times to a long board. My rough stone chimney has pockets to 2 1/2" deep , is very irregular, and the trim board is 117" long. This required 11.7 transfers, so the vertical and horizontal reference points became critical. I had a very difficult time figuring out where to initially place the 3 1/2" wide trim board in relation to the irregular stone and decided to use the stone point that jutted out the farthest. I tacked that 117" board in place, plumbed it up dead vertical, and located the deepest pocket in the stone work. With the Saker gauge in place I extended the fingers into that deep pocket, then marked a vertical line of reference on the entire length of the board. This took me a long time and the first attempt turned out to be a trial run. The second run turned out better. The multiple transfers were tricky. I leaned a lot from your video. Well done. Ray Brown
I have been trying to find a contour gauge that is at least 90mm deep (or 4 inches even). and hasn't a large end on it (prefer 10mm). To do bulkhead installs against 90mm ceiling cornice. All these contour gauges are at max 3 inch, I may have to custom make one
@@GTWoodshop exactly, i've seen some alcove videos on youtube but hardly ones where to to end up with a perfect scribe fit on 3 or even 4 sides of even and uneven walls.
Brilliant video, thank you very much :) I have a 'tricky' scribing question. When trying to fit the kitchen in our cottage I have a 'cosmetic' end panel to fit to a row of floor cupboards. The panel will sit on a flagstone floor which is an uneven surface (a bit like the wall you mocked up), and it will also butt up against a wall which slopes at an angle. I want the top of the panel to end up level when I put a spirit level on it (as the worktop which would rest on it would want to be level). Which do I scribe first, the floor or the wall and why? I hope the scenario makes sense! Thank you.
Hi Ben, the easiest approach is to make two cardboard templates as the product you're scribing is non flexible. Just remember the your reference surface is the front and top of the cabinet. Hope that helps. 👍
![How to Scribe an infill or filler strip. P1 of 3 [video 352][Gifted/Ad**]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/g0W23buOgoE/mqdefault.jpg)
Only vid on TH-cam that explains how to use the tool and scribe properly in a real world situation.
Hi Peter, thank you. 👍
Sir you are very correct
Brilliant video, makes it so clear.
Thank you! This is the best scribing demonstration I've seen so far because you demonstrated the different types of scribing tools and where they work best. Most who have made videos such as this just show one tool and of course they apply it to some simple example without showing the issues pertaining to the scribing tool e.g. compass rotating etc. I had to find this out myself. A compass can work but only with a great deal of patience to avoid rotation. This is difficult when scribing a very long vertical section with difficult access to monitor the tool. Also, the compass has to have a totally smooth surface on one side so that it can glide smoothly along the surface. On top of that. it will not easily pick up very large and very small surface variations and the list of pain goes on and on.
Out of sheer frustration, I bought a specific scribing tool that was not a compass ( different brand names eg. Profiler is one I bought) but they too have problems depending on the shape of the tool and the surface to be scribed. I was sweating it out. I had to scribe an old window frame with horizontal and vertical mullions to fit a piece of wood across it. So that's a long vertical section with lots of protrusions and each mullion was contoured as well. Because of the way the scriber was shaped it was not well suited to scribing the mullions' varying contours. It simply did not work for this application.
I went in search of different scribing tools and found the contour gauge ( different brand to Saker). That helped a lot but also has the same problem you described with the protrusion on each end of the contour gauge. I also needed to re-position the gauge multiple times going up the window because of course the gauge is short. However, it really is the best tool out there for scribing because it does not have the rotation error that can happen easily with a compass, and it very precisely copies the contours, unlike a compass or my Profiler scribing tool. Even so, I still have some challenges ahead with my window. Once I sort those out, I'll make a video because it will help others too.
Absolutely, nothing better than experience. 👍👍
I’ve been searching all night for a demonstration of all basic techniques.
I’m subscribed and am a fan
Hi Edic, thank you. 👍
Great presentation. Thank you
I was looking for how to cut geometric shapes in flooring plank. Great video and excellent way of explaining - explained details calmly and clearly. Excellent stepping stone for me.
Thank you Zahid. 👍
That Saker tool looks quite nice and a time saver if doing a lot, but for very occasional use, I like to simply put a nail through a 90deg drilled hole in the width of a carpenters pencil and use that as a guide along the stone surface. Cheap, quick, and easy.
Good lord! Super helpful I've often wondered how these tasks were managed...genius...thank you! Love yr videos, yr humor and instruction so glad I found yr channel...thanks!
Hi Brad, thank you. 👌👍
Thanks mate.
An excellent video. Very informative, lots of hints and tips. Keep up the great work.
scribe and dive is my best friend
My first time dealing with this type of problem was yesterday. Tomorrow, I'll be better equipped to handle it. Thanks for the info!
Hi KD, you're most welcome sir. 👍
👏excellent; great tips! greetings from Brazil
Thank you, and hello Brazil. 👍👍
Thank you, that was very informative and quite impressive!
Hi Lourdes, thank you. 👍
Very useful and practical tutorial to solve the uneven surface joining.i am subscribed 🙏
Thank you. 👍
Excellent video, thank you!
Thank you. 👍
Superb well explained video. Cheers.
Thanks Coulsdon. 👍
Mate I enjoyed this video pretty much answered all my problems to scribe.
Hi Elly, thanks mate. Now that's feelgood. 😁👍😎
Good demostration greeting fromm ecuador
Hi Player, thank you and a very warm welcome to you in Ecuador. 👍😁
I like the way he made his comment the product contour guage
Great info mate. I would have never thought about using the campus the way you did. Awesome Idea. 👍
Hi George, thank you. 😁
Great information, TY
Could you do a video on your apron please really like the design
This video is exactly what I was looking for thank you very much sir
Why thank you Sir. 😁😁😎
Well presented, clear and very well-articulated, I am new to your channel, and I have subscribed. Well done
Hi Nano, thank you. 😁👍
Excellent video - thanks for the info!
HI Adam, thank you. 👍
Skillz!
I was very frustrated by the number of lumps and bumps in my kitchen walls, and was terrified to install the scribe molding to fit them in. You showed me how to scribe them in, and so far they are nearly perfect (thanks especially to the tip of filing the back side of the material). I still have a few more to go, but thought I would comment my appreciation from America as I look at my work of today and enjoy a pint. Thanks!
Hi M, thank you. I'm realy pleased it helped, may you enjoy many, many more pints looking at your handi work. 😁😁👍👍
Thank you for this. One always hopes for clean cut projects, but almost never gets it. Good tips to smooth that aggravation.
Thank you. 😊
Great video and excellent demonstration. A fence builder left a huge gap (8 inches on the right end and tapers down to about 3 inches on the other end) between the deck and the fence. I was wondering how to transfer the shape to a piece of 2x6. Your method will work great. Thanks!
Thank you, my pleasure.
Someone is sporting a nice tan!!!
HI Richard, I think its wind burn from being out on the bike. 😊😊😊😎
When scribing to the rough block how about bending the point of your compass outwards so only the point touches the wall.
Great video. I came upon your site while looking for a review of this product. I liked the way you explained it both visually and verbally. I’m going to subscribe not only based on the way you presented the information but the sarcasm you displayed on your face and in your voice. Loved the humor. I do have one question. How do you determine, for example, if you’re scribing the end of a shelf against a wall, how far away from the edge do you go in since the other end has to fit against the opposite end of the other wall.
A space in the wall is 4’ wide. So the shelf will be 4’ wide. How do you determine where to start the scribe so the finished shelf fits snugly in on both side ?
Hi Evan, thank you, my wife keeps saying leave the humour in, I'm not sure TH-cam is ready for that level of humour. 😁 Anyway to your question. I would pick a point in the middle of each wall, doesn't really matter where it is as long as you mark it on both the piece being scribed and the back wall. This becomes your reference point that you scribe from. hope that helps. 👍
Graham, your section on the multiple scribes to rough stone was particularly helpful, especially the information on establishing reference points and lines when the 10" Saker scribe tool must be applied several times to a long board. My rough stone chimney has pockets to 2 1/2" deep , is very irregular, and the trim board is 117" long. This required 11.7 transfers, so the vertical and horizontal reference points became critical. I had a very difficult time figuring out where to initially place the 3 1/2" wide trim board in relation to the irregular stone and decided to use the stone point that jutted out the farthest. I tacked that 117" board in place, plumbed it up dead vertical, and located the deepest pocket in the stone work. With the Saker gauge in place I extended the fingers into that deep pocket, then marked a vertical line of reference on the entire length of the board. This took me a long time and the first attempt turned out to be a trial run. The second run turned out better. The multiple transfers were tricky. I leaned a lot from your video. Well done.
Ray Brown
Hi Ray, that sounded like a trial by ordeal. Well done mate, epic. Glad the vid was of use. 👍😎
How to scribe the top log to fit on top of the bottom log when building a log cabin? Thx
This is a greAt video. However, xif the reference wall is not straight does that change how to scribe the side?
Thank you. 😁 Yes, you would have to create a temporary reference plane to work from, probably using a long level. 👍
I have been trying to find a contour gauge that is at least 90mm deep (or 4 inches even). and hasn't a large end on it (prefer 10mm). To do bulkhead installs against 90mm ceiling cornice. All these contour gauges are at max 3 inch, I may have to custom make one
Hi Mickey, scrap of wood and a pencil, always works. 👍
I’ve yet to see how to scribe an infill between a squared wall and and uneven wall.
Hi Eddie do you mean like an alcove, shelf beside a chimney breast kind of idea?
@@GTWoodshop exactly, i've seen some alcove videos on youtube but hardly ones where to to end up with a perfect scribe fit on 3 or even 4 sides of even and uneven walls.
I had 3 seperate companies reach out to me offering me that exact profile tool. Turned them down as i already own one.
Hi Grumpy, that's fair play.
Brilliant video, thank you very much :) I have a 'tricky' scribing question. When trying to fit the kitchen in our cottage I have a 'cosmetic' end panel to fit to a row of floor cupboards. The panel will sit on a flagstone floor which is an uneven surface (a bit like the wall you mocked up), and it will also butt up against a wall which slopes at an angle. I want the top of the panel to end up level when I put a spirit level on it (as the worktop which would rest on it would want to be level). Which do I scribe first, the floor or the wall and why? I hope the scenario makes sense! Thank you.
Hi Ben, the easiest approach is to make two cardboard templates as the product you're scribing is non flexible. Just remember the your reference surface is the front and top of the cabinet. Hope that helps. 👍
Every one must to Sub-scribe. Great video
Hey Barry, that was so close to being funny. 🤣🤣🤣😂
P
What brand is your compass kind sir
I think it was just an Amazon special, I'll try and find a link.
Here it is. amzn.to/3GFb3cX 👍