In this video, requested by my subscriber is to show how I installed the qs205 5000w with a 150mm drop out into a aluminum frame with a 135mm drop out.
Mate want to say how much I appreciate you showing me and everyone out there that you can get over a 3kw 135mm dropout hub into your 135mm mtb frame! Reassuring video man, I myself have built a fair few of these builds and have molded slightly to get the job done, but none 150mm so really been mad help. Always avoided going over a 3kw hub for that reason. Pushing 12kw into em lol. The 16mm washer on the freewheel side and flat torque arm you get with the motor on the right side majorly will save me time. Again n again u explain it all in a depth which people understand. I'll update my progress on Facebook, sure have made it alot easier. Great video Ebike life 👌 👍 👏 🙌
@@E-bikeguy the QS 205 looks a complete beast. Sitting next to my 3kw generic motor on my current build, makes the 3kw motor look like a baby lol. Literally cannot wait. Thanks again you the man 🙏👌👍
"More than one way to skin a cat"! Grandpa would say looking at your clever battery drill to get her done without another trip to Home Depot, field ingenuity at it's finest
Get a tannis liner for the rear tire to help prevent flat .... That way you don't have to go through all the trouble of taking the rear tire off. Sweet bike 👍 the tannis liner smooths out the ride too.
@22:35 probably thinking of flange nuts. Flare nut is for flared tubing fittings. The serrated flange nuts are nice because they also serve as locknut. The secondary function of the torque arm is it will hold the axle in the dropouts even is the axle nuts do get loose. So you will notice it before the wheel has a chance to shift enough to cause a problem. You have those torque arms mounted in the perfect orientation, which does two things: 1. Holds the axle in the dropout. 2. Changes the torque from something trying to spread the dropouts open to a forward force at the axle and reward force at the 10mm bolt, when accelerating under max torque. With regen the forces are reversed but regen is not going to be 16kw. That little comma shaped torque arm, even though not needed, could beef up the side with the trailer hitch torque arm a bit and give some mild steel for a serrated flange nut to bite into. The serrated flange nut will chew up the raw aluminum each time you undo it so it needs some sort of steel there on the outside. Just depends if you can find a clean spot to mount it that doesn’t interfere with other things on the dropout.
As always thank you for that info, every time you comment I get more knowledge from you. I figure them torque arm is in a good position to stop the axle from turning and its been holding good under hard acceleration.
@@E-bikeguy yes, they are perfect. My electric scooter has horizontal dropouts and the same torque arms you have mounted horizontally too, so it does the axle retaining job (most important in my case) and spreads the force from my beastly 500w motor and 32a controller.
thanks, i was looking all day for someone installing more than the single speed freewheel. I still dont have my rear brake installed because the disk always touches the cables and i dont know why. I bought the motor used and its also an old one like yours.
The amount you have invested in that bike opens the question about where is the dividing line between using a basic mountain bike and buying a Bomber style frame kit as the foundation for the build. The pros are obvious but the cons might be it no longer looks like a bicycle and perhaps it will draw more attention with no motorcycle license plate. It also is heavier which while stronger, it makes it slower. But it can take the 273 8 kw motor so its not slower anymore. Lol I think one of your subscribers is making one of those now.
Yeah you right it's in the works for him he so excited to get that beast up and running, and for ad I know he will be the 3rd person to have a qs motor in a MTB frame
@@E-bikeguy, I uploaded a video of pictures of my girlfriend’s $600 (+$400 in upgrades) scooter so you can see what I was working on. Its a perfect match for the local laws here in the Philippines. But if i took a different pathway and bought 7KW motor, 200a controller and and as big of a lithium ion pack as i can fit in it, it would be $3000 ebike instead of $1000.
Hey @E-bikeguy i am inspired by you and i am planning on building an ebike similar to yours i was to use the QS 205 but by bike's dropouts are 190mm is there anything i can do to make it fit? or do i have to forget about the QS205 and use a weaker motor with 190mm dropout? thanks in advance for your response in advance
@@E-bikeguy I'm confused about silicone wire thickness. I have a 22a front wheel controller and a 22a rear wheel controller. All my batteries have 14awg wires and 30a continuous. One battery kicks off if climbing a hill, so I am going to run 2 duplicate batteries to get 60a. I bought xt90 connectors and have both controllers wired together. Do I now run 12awg for the 44a ? Is it better to separate and run a battery with each controller and stay with 14awg?
I've got an issue where I bought a Bafang G062 1000watt motor and 30amp controller and a new display to replace my Aventon Aventure 2 motor, controller and display. I did it because it's locked at 20mph on throttle, way too slow. Anyway, I bought the 175mm motor instead of the 190mm version. I totally slept on that. It came with beefy torque washers and nuts, but I had to put the torque washer on the outside of the rotor side because the calipers were too far away from the disk and put the torque washer on the inside of the dropout of the freewheel side, and now I can't get 1st or second gear no matter how hard I mess with the derailleur. I Was thinking about putting washers behind the rotor like you did, but after researching that option I hear there's a good chance you'll shear the rotor bolts sooner or later with a hard stop. I don't know if I need torque arms; the motor pulls 1475 watts and will do a top speed of 32mph. Your bike, from what you described is probably twice as fast and torquier as mine, do I still need torque arms or are the torque washers enough?
Ok that you for your comment, no you don't need torque arm the washer will do just fine. And far as the rotor goes if you get longer screws you won't have a problem either.
One of the most frustrating jobs to do of Looking for Right Rear Drop Outs. Had to Toss a few to the side due to motor hub wider, along with the size of bolts. Front wheel more Universal but it's rear drop out you have to find.
Dear E-bikeguy: How much is a motor/wheel like this with the recommended contoller approximately? Is the standard kit controller any good? How about the spokes, are they strong enough? Thank you for replying!
I’m confused as… I love your content but where is the part where you actually explain how you got the 150mm to fit in the 135mm dropouts? Does anyone know ?
@25:45 oh yeah, i can see how tight that clearance is and why you added the spacer washers. It got me wondering which caliper QS designed that for that will have adequate clearance without the spacer washers. I also looked to see if any 280-300mm rotors that would get the caliber away from the hub but all the pictures i see show the 205 with a standard (180mm ?) rotor. It would probably work with very small clearance since the hub would move out snd the caliper wont move in, but the caliper would need to be set with the inside puck fully compressed so it just clesrs the rotor, then the outer puck does all the initial travel. Then from there both pucks would move in equally. Probably the only benefit is it gets the rotor bolt heads 1/16” further away from the motor wires. Thats the place i want to see more gap. Lol
Thank you so much as far as I can see the newest model is very easy to programming to once the hall sensor setup is done …….also love your channel and content keep it coming
As I’m watching your video I’m a welder for 12 years but don’t have a welder lots of good info on torque arm you are like MacGyver with the screw gun. I built a 5000 watt motor kit with 150 amp controller I need to do some modifications. I need your advice on a battery that won’t take a charge I went down to 2% when I pluged in the charger instead of 2red lights it had a red and green
Ok If it's flashing a red and green light try to keep the charger plugged in, it's trying to take a charge once the voltage is up on the battery it should stay a solid red light
@@E-bikeguy after few days of charging still not fully charged voltage meter reads 60plus. volts but when I put on the bike and get into the settings to change the voltage with a52 volt settings on display it reads 100% and when I went to 72 volts it was 57% this is a 72v20a battery 🪫 thanks for your fast response
Your videos are top notch man can I ask where you got your qs205 3.5t from? I see them on aliexpress but is that safe like or a specific seller? Also I noticed the bicycle is using your own calipers rather than what comes with a kit..how so you get the motor to cut of been as custom brakes don't have the sensor?
I still don't understand how you fitet the qs205 motor to the 135mm dropout. My qs205 motor is to wide to fit between the dropouts, have you bent yours?
No it should slide in with little effort, it depends on what frame you have also, I have another video on this build where I built another one for a customer
@E-bikeguy Speaking of battery. Can my battery and controller still be able to run this motor if it doesn't meet the requirements? My controller is a 48v 45amps and can only do 2000w. But I'm thinking i can still run this motor and it won't stress the motor too much as well. Therefore it won't overheat the motor as well. Is what I'm thinking.
@doomslayer1676 it depends because of the phase angle of qs205 is 220 some controller can't go that high so you need to get the sabvoton controller 7245 to detect offset angle of motor to get max efficiency
@E-bikeguy Yeah but what I'm saying my controllers maximum potential is 48v at 2000w 45amps. I was told the only limiting factor is my controller and battery. I'm buying a QS motor 205 for FUTURE upgrades down the road. But I want to know if I can still use the motor with my CURRENT controller and battery for the time being. The controller allows me to do hall test as well through and app. I use a Sabvoton controller. 36-72v 2000w at 45amps. This is the controller maximum performance but its currently programmed to 48v to be able to accept my 52v battery. Will that^^^^ Work with the QS Motor? Even though the motor is rated for 3000w-5000w. My current set up of 2000w should still be able to spin the wheel at the very least.
The washes are there for spacing. I mean, if your drop out is too small. Of course, the wheel is not gonna fit. But my torque arms are usually bolted to the frame of the bike so you might have to email me a video. What your Drop out is doing. Because if you tighten that wheel down tight enough, that wheel do not suppose to come out that drop out. What kind of a bike are you trying to put that wheel on?
I just ordered a 12t rear freewheel. Found it on eBay. Combining that with a three gear front with a 48 tooth big ring should help me pedal past 18mph.
It will be interesting to see how the Sabvoton flux weakening responds. Sabvoton uses amps, Votol uses some number big numbers nobody knows what they mean. I have no idea in the Sabvoton except you add flux weakening bit by bit until the top speed gain isn’t worth the loss in torque and the battery voltage sag from sustained high amp draw. I don’t use it because my 500w motor uses 1500 watts to go base speed, so flux weakening would overload it. Plus on the Votol the motor sounds strange in flux weakening, no longer silent.
yo great video :) i think my dropout is currently 135-140mm too and i have 142mm hub motor on it, so can i upgrade to hub which is 155mm? i think i need to bend the aluminium frame like 10-15mm or so.. it would be very tight fit. would it work?
@@E-bikeguy the kit im looking at has 1speed casette, but i still think i would need to bend or even grind something.. just cant find 135-150mm motors that are reasonable priced, they all have like 200-400dollar shipping which is BS.. well there are some good kits but they have bad controllers and i want to buy motor and controller seperate, so you happen to know where i could get ONLY the motor 3000w 72v ?, everything in aliexpress have ridicilous shipping prizes
@@E-bikeguy OK! Thanks that was the answer I was looking for but I thought you had a video of that motor with 6 speed in a 150mm stealth bomber frame? And what will you suggest a 3000w motor from NB Power or Mxus?
As long as you do not bang out the sides. The spacing for right rotation of motor hub can go out of whack of jus the smallest mm. It will work jus fine if you had to do this but it's jus a matter of time the hub gets warped and magnets start heating out the form. I did this to a normal bike in my teens ofbanging out the side mounts to fit in this BMX wheel. In a month the wheel spokes snapped off.
@@E-bikeguy Of my experience I find myself to move along next bike frame if not perfect fit so you can tell why I only using 2 e bikes since Feb2022,lol. The Turbo Boost e bike has 2 motors but on the standard single front shocks MTB. The other 1 or the 1500watt CKit I happen to have a similar frame of the Sur Ron bikes, the Dual Hardtail 2 piece from in a NEXT Power Climber and this type of frames the best one to use but those frames rare of only seeing in Craigslist but those Dual Frames make e bike suspension like. MercadesSport. The comfort and flowing motion will spoil you. Jus not right to use a Rear on those Next Bikes , the width is smaller then average due to being 18 speeder.
@@E-bikeguy But I've been using the 2.125 width rims. Going to see if the smaller widths rims can fit besides going down magnet size of the 1000watt and lesser .
Oh, I'm going to even try to use 3 inch fat hub for rear of the NEXT frame of not adding on the flywheel. I do not use PAS majority of time unless power level low, use my e bikes like a moped scooter
Hey brother! I got joke🤣🤣 I think I got a good deal? 🤣 QS 233 and monitor, and sabaton 100 for 489.00. 135 drop out. Was wondering if could make it 175 for fat tire bike? Term your looking for.. not give it Gas.. Give it the juice! Lol just made up🤣🤣
Well I used to be a welder by trade then I picked up the mechanic skills when I was 14 by my next door neighbor, they was into racing from There on I been working on my own stuff I have a gmc yukon turbo and my kids use to be in motocross so I work on their bikes, I'm say I'm more of a Mr. Fix it DAD
Mate want to say how much I appreciate you showing me and everyone out there that you can get over a 3kw 135mm dropout hub into your 135mm mtb frame!
Reassuring video man, I myself have built a fair few of these builds and have molded slightly to get the job done, but none 150mm so really been mad help.
Always avoided going over a 3kw hub for that reason. Pushing 12kw into em lol.
The 16mm washer on the freewheel side and flat torque arm you get with the motor on the right side majorly will save me time.
Again n again u explain it all in a depth which people understand.
I'll update my progress on Facebook, sure have made it alot easier.
Great video Ebike life 👌 👍 👏 🙌
I'm glad you is happy, I'm happy for you can't wait to see running it's gonna be so fun
@@E-bikeguy the QS 205 looks a complete beast. Sitting next to my 3kw generic motor on my current build, makes the 3kw motor look like a baby lol.
Literally cannot wait.
Thanks again you the man 🙏👌👍
@@jaykavcher7472 heck yeah lol beast mode!!!!!!!💯💪
@E-bikeguy do you own a spoke threader? My 150mm spokes are breaking and I need new ones
"More than one way to skin a cat"! Grandpa would say looking at your clever battery drill to get her done without another trip to Home Depot, field ingenuity at it's finest
Lol so true
Thanks for showing us these details. It's good to see that I'm not the only one having certain problems, and then you show how you fix em
No problem 😊 I'm always here to help
I started laughing when you said loosing your head I’m the same way when miss placing something it’s gets complicated sometimes I have built a few
🤣🤣🤣🤣 I know right?!!!!
Excellent explanation of the process, I'm about to do this build and this was just what I needed,,
No problem, this is a epic build for a ebike
Best video I've seen you explain in detail..cheers bro
Thank you 😊 💯
Get a tannis liner for the rear tire to help prevent flat .... That way you don't have to go through all the trouble of taking the rear tire off. Sweet bike 👍 the tannis liner smooths out the ride too.
Send me a link
@@E-bikeguytannus insert Google
Ok
@@E-bikeguy I spelled it wrong the first time it's tannus bike tire liners
Ok cool
That's a nice job I'm going to do that one day when I get my finances straightened out.
Heck yeah you will be happy once you get it all together
@22:35 probably thinking of flange nuts. Flare nut is for flared tubing fittings. The serrated flange nuts are nice because they also serve as locknut.
The secondary function of the torque arm is it will hold the axle in the dropouts even is the axle nuts do get loose. So you will notice it before the wheel has a chance to shift enough to cause a problem.
You have those torque arms mounted in the perfect orientation, which does two things:
1. Holds the axle in the dropout.
2. Changes the torque from something trying to spread the dropouts open to a forward force at the axle and reward force at the 10mm bolt, when accelerating under max torque. With regen the forces are reversed but regen is not going to be 16kw.
That little comma shaped torque arm, even though not needed, could beef up the side with the trailer hitch torque arm a bit and give some mild steel for a serrated flange nut to bite into. The serrated flange nut will chew up the raw aluminum each time you undo it so it needs some sort of steel there on the outside. Just depends if you can find a clean spot to mount it that doesn’t interfere with other things on the dropout.
As always thank you for that info, every time you comment I get more knowledge from you. I figure them torque arm is in a good position to stop the axle from turning and its been holding good under hard acceleration.
@@E-bikeguy yes, they are perfect. My electric scooter has horizontal dropouts and the same torque arms you have mounted horizontally too, so it does the axle retaining job (most important in my case) and spreads the force from my beastly 500w motor and 32a controller.
Ok well when I get my son the qs205 I'll do his just like mine
thanks, i was looking all day for someone installing more than the single speed freewheel.
I still dont have my rear brake installed because the disk always touches the cables and i dont know why. I bought the motor used and its also an old one like yours.
The amount you have invested in that bike opens the question about where is the dividing line between using a basic mountain bike and buying a Bomber style frame kit as the foundation for the build.
The pros are obvious but the cons might be it no longer looks like a bicycle and perhaps it will draw more attention with no motorcycle license plate. It also is heavier which while stronger, it makes it slower. But it can take the 273 8 kw motor so its not slower anymore. Lol
I think one of your subscribers is making one of those now.
Yeah you right it's in the works for him he so excited to get that beast up and running, and for ad I know he will be the 3rd person to have a qs motor in a MTB frame
And that's one of the reasons I chose the MTB frame, it's lighter, and still looks like a bicycle. And cheaper to build
@@E-bikeguy, I uploaded a video of pictures of my girlfriend’s $600 (+$400 in upgrades) scooter so you can see what I was working on. Its a perfect match for the local laws here in the Philippines. But if i took a different pathway and bought 7KW motor, 200a controller and and as big of a lithium ion pack as i can fit in it, it would be $3000 ebike instead of $1000.
That's right it will be a monster to ill check it out now
I don't see it yet, I'll wait
You just made the exact video i needed, with out any exeption, so thanks :)
No problem 😊 glad to help
Hey @E-bikeguy i am inspired by you and i am planning on building an ebike similar to yours
i was to use the QS 205 but by bike's dropouts are 190mm is there anything i can do to make it fit? or do i have to forget about the QS205 and use a weaker motor with 190mm dropout?
thanks in advance for your response in advance
🎉it’s a shame I live in uk, I just ordered a 2000w kit,I would off loved my Ebike guy to put my kit together , keep up with the good work bro❤
Thank you, I will definitely can put one together for ya
watch all ur stuff. i am working with 2000w stuff, but i learn alot with ur advanced knowledge... :-)
Heck yeah bro 💪 I'm currently working on a 2000w front hub motor going on a Ariel rider Kepler
@@E-bikeguy I'm confused about silicone wire thickness. I have a 22a front wheel controller and a 22a rear wheel controller. All my batteries have 14awg wires and 30a continuous. One battery kicks off if climbing a hill, so I am going to run 2 duplicate batteries to get 60a. I bought xt90 connectors and have both controllers wired together. Do I now run 12awg for the 44a ? Is it better to separate and run a battery with each controller and stay with 14awg?
@joeberginc7415 since you going that route I'll run 10awg with xt90 connection.
I've got an issue where I bought a Bafang G062 1000watt motor and 30amp controller and a new display to replace my Aventon Aventure 2 motor, controller and display. I did it because it's locked at 20mph on throttle, way too slow. Anyway, I bought the 175mm motor instead of the 190mm version. I totally slept on that. It came with beefy torque washers and nuts, but I had to put the torque washer on the outside of the rotor side because the calipers were too far away from the disk and put the torque washer on the inside of the dropout of the freewheel side, and now I can't get 1st or second gear no matter how hard I mess with the derailleur. I Was thinking about putting washers behind the rotor like you did, but after researching that option I hear there's a good chance you'll shear the rotor bolts sooner or later with a hard stop. I don't know if I need torque arms; the motor pulls 1475 watts and will do a top speed of 32mph. Your bike, from what you described is probably twice as fast and torquier as mine, do I still need torque arms or are the torque washers enough?
Ok that you for your comment, no you don't need torque arm the washer will do just fine. And far as the rotor goes if you get longer screws you won't have a problem either.
I saw this kit and was wondering what the 135mm dropout meant ...now i know !! 🙂
The motor is 150mm but it fits 135mm nicely
One of the most frustrating jobs to do of Looking for Right Rear Drop Outs. Had to Toss a few to the side due to motor hub wider, along with the size of bolts. Front wheel more Universal but it's rear drop out you have to find.
Dear E-bikeguy: How much is a motor/wheel like this with the recommended contoller approximately? Is the standard kit controller any good? How about the spokes, are they strong enough? Thank you for replying!
Oh yes I still have that wheel fardriver 72530 will be a good match for this motor
Have you thought about converting them to Tubeless tires to reduce Rolling Resistance, and improve durability?
No but that not a bad idea, I don't think the rim is tubeless ready tho
I’m confused as… I love your content but where is the part where you actually explain how you got the 150mm to fit in the 135mm dropouts? Does anyone know ?
@25:45 oh yeah, i can see how tight that clearance is and why you added the spacer washers. It got me wondering which caliper QS designed that for that will have adequate clearance without the spacer washers. I also looked to see if any 280-300mm rotors that would get the caliber away from the hub but all the pictures i see show the 205 with a standard (180mm ?) rotor.
It would probably work with very small clearance since the hub would move out snd the caliper wont move in, but the caliper would need to be set with the inside puck fully compressed so it just clesrs the rotor, then the outer puck does all the initial travel. Then from there both pucks would move in equally.
Probably the only benefit is it gets the rotor bolt heads 1/16” further away from the motor wires. Thats the place i want to see more gap. Lol
Thanks for the great vid also would you no if the sabvoton controllers are compatible with crystalyte hub motors as can’t seem to find much info.
Actually you can run almost any motor with the sabvoton controller.
Thank you so much as far as I can see the newest model is very easy to programming to once the hall sensor setup is done …….also love your channel and content keep it coming
@@motardmad8652 thank you, and will do
Great Job Thank you God bless!!!
No problem 😊
As I’m watching your video I’m a welder for 12 years but don’t have a welder lots of good info on torque arm you are like MacGyver with the screw gun. I built a 5000 watt motor kit with 150 amp controller I need to do some modifications.
I need your advice on a battery that won’t take a charge I went down to 2% when I pluged in the charger instead of 2red lights it had a red and green
It’s a 72v 20 amp BTR power
Ok If it's flashing a red and green light try to keep the charger plugged in, it's trying to take a charge once the voltage is up on the battery it should stay a solid red light
@@E-bikeguy after few days of charging still not fully charged voltage meter reads 60plus. volts but when I put on the bike and get into the settings to change the voltage with a52 volt settings on display it reads 100% and when I went to 72 volts it was 57% this is a 72v20a battery 🪫 thanks for your fast response
No problem I'm here if you need anything else
What's the difference between 3000 and 5000 watts? Can 3k do wheelies pretty easy and has plenty of torque right?
3000w has good torque and you can wheelie it but not as easy as the 5000w motor
@@E-bikeguy thanks!
No problem
Your videos are top notch man can I ask where you got your qs205 3.5t from? I see them on aliexpress but is that safe like or a specific seller? Also I noticed the bicycle is using your own calipers rather than what comes with a kit..how so you get the motor to cut of been as custom brakes don't have the sensor?
I have a seller, I'll send you a link. Also I'm using zoom hydraulic brakes off of ali express
ND Ebike Factory Store
a.aliexpress.com/_mN78Jim
@E-bikeguy Thank you much appreciated. So with the zoom brakes does it cut the motor when you brake since they don't have sensors?
@m A yes they have the sensor
I still don't understand how you fitet the qs205 motor to the 135mm dropout. My qs205 motor is to wide to fit between the dropouts, have you bent yours?
No it should slide in with little effort, it depends on what frame you have also, I have another video on this build where I built another one for a customer
Wow pas 1 does 20mph ? That’s insanely awesome what battery did you have paired with it at that time ?
It was a 72v 40ah battery I got from aliexpress that I had to modify it
@E-bikeguy
Speaking of battery.
Can my battery and controller still be able to run this motor if it doesn't meet the requirements?
My controller is a 48v 45amps and can only do 2000w.
But I'm thinking i can still run this motor and it won't stress the motor too much as well. Therefore it won't overheat the motor as well. Is what I'm thinking.
@doomslayer1676 it depends because of the phase angle of qs205 is 220 some controller can't go that high so you need to get the sabvoton controller 7245 to detect offset angle of motor to get max efficiency
@E-bikeguy
Yeah but what I'm saying my controllers maximum potential is 48v at 2000w 45amps.
I was told the only limiting factor is my controller and battery.
I'm buying a QS motor 205 for FUTURE upgrades down the road.
But I want to know if I can still use the motor with my CURRENT controller and battery for the time being.
The controller allows me to do hall test as well through and app.
I use a Sabvoton controller. 36-72v 2000w at 45amps. This is the controller maximum performance but its currently programmed to 48v to be able to accept my 52v battery.
Will that^^^^
Work with the QS Motor? Even though the motor is rated for 3000w-5000w.
My current set up of 2000w should still be able to spin the wheel at the very least.
@doomslayer1676 oh ok as long as you can tune the controller then yes you can use you current controller
The washers that came with it are not doing the job properly whats thst double washer called that you can bult to the frame aswell please mate
The washes are there for spacing. I mean, if your drop out is too small. Of course, the wheel is not gonna fit. But my torque arms are usually bolted to the frame of the bike so you might have to email me a video. What your Drop out is doing. Because if you tighten that wheel down tight enough, that wheel do not suppose to come out that drop out. What kind of a bike are you trying to put that wheel on?
I'm doing my first e bike and my rear axel has about 3-4 mm of flat sticking out. How do I fix this or do I need a different frame?
Is it aluminum or steel
@E-bikeguy I belive aluminum its a gt aggressor pro from dicks, and I bought a nbpower 2,000w hub. Wish I could send pics 📸.
@@timothyyeah5591 send them to theebikeguy08@gmail.com
I just ordered a 12t rear freewheel. Found it on eBay. Combining that with a three gear front with a 48 tooth big ring should help me pedal past 18mph.
You the man og 💯
I try to help the people out, that's out there watching my videos 😁
It will be interesting to see how the Sabvoton flux weakening responds. Sabvoton uses amps, Votol uses some number big numbers nobody knows what they mean.
I have no idea in the Sabvoton except you add flux weakening bit by bit until the top speed gain isn’t worth the loss in torque and the battery voltage sag from sustained high amp draw. I don’t use it because my 500w motor uses 1500 watts to go base speed, so flux weakening would overload it. Plus on the Votol the motor sounds strange in flux weakening, no longer silent.
Your right I don't use flux weakening either because I want to save on battery and plus really don't need it
yo great video :) i think my dropout is currently 135-140mm too and i have 142mm hub motor on it, so can i upgrade to hub which is 155mm? i think i need to bend the aluminium frame like 10-15mm or so.. it would be very tight fit. would it work?
Yes I really didn't need to Bend the frame so yeah it will definitely work😎
@@E-bikeguy the kit im looking at has 1speed casette, but i still think i would need to bend or even grind something.. just cant find 135-150mm motors that are reasonable priced, they all have like 200-400dollar shipping which is BS.. well there are some good kits but they have bad controllers and i want to buy motor and controller seperate, so you happen to know where i could get ONLY the motor 3000w 72v ?, everything in aliexpress have ridicilous shipping prizes
Ok well I get all my parts from ali express, the motor should be only 357
Oh ok yeah they get you on shipping, so you want the 3000w motor? 72v
US $247.79 29%OFF | 48V-72V 2000W 3000W Bicycle Hub Motor Wheel dropout 135mm MTX39 Bicycle Wheel 20" 24" 26" 27.5" 28" 29" 700C Ebike Kit
a.aliexpress.com/_ms9d8ZK
How many rpms does the electric motor take and what speed can the bike take?
It can take quite a few rpms, but we clocked it at 75mph before we ran out of road,
Will a qs motor 205 v3 fit my stealth bomber enduro frame 150mm with a 7 speed freewheel?
Can't find any information about that
@@jeffz9287 i don't think so because of the shorter axle a 3 speed will
@@E-bikeguy OK! Thanks that was the answer I was looking for but I thought you had a video of that motor with 6 speed in a 150mm stealth bomber frame? And what will you suggest a 3000w motor from NB Power or Mxus?
Does it fit on better with out a free wheel?
Well yes,,, but the 3 speed one is better than a single one.
I like your drill ,blessyou👍
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 it came in handy that day. Lol
So what controller do need to get and battery for 5000w? I'm kinda confuse..
48v to 72v battery with a 160a bms, or above. there is a good selection of controllers to choose from to handle 5000w.
can also put slime in the tube.
U da man good looking out!!!
No problem!!!
As long as you do not bang out the sides. The spacing for right rotation of motor hub can go out of whack of jus the smallest mm. It will work jus fine if you had to do this but it's jus a matter of time the hub gets warped and magnets start heating out the form. I did this to a normal bike in my teens ofbanging out the side mounts to fit in this BMX wheel. In a month the wheel spokes snapped off.
It was the rubbing of upper corner after a month I notice but too late to as of my look having at sound, spokes gave out.
Oh yeah that's what I thought was going to happen but I'm in the clear
@@E-bikeguy Of my experience I find myself to move along next bike frame if not perfect fit so you can tell why I only using 2 e bikes since Feb2022,lol. The Turbo Boost e bike has 2 motors but on the standard single front shocks MTB. The other 1 or the 1500watt CKit I happen to have a similar frame of the Sur Ron bikes, the Dual Hardtail 2 piece from in a NEXT Power Climber and this type of frames the best one to use but those frames rare of only seeing in Craigslist but those Dual Frames make e bike suspension like. MercadesSport. The comfort and flowing motion will spoil you. Jus not right to use a Rear on those Next Bikes , the width is smaller then average due to being 18 speeder.
@@E-bikeguy But I've been using the 2.125 width rims. Going to see if the smaller widths rims can fit besides going down magnet size of the 1000watt and lesser .
Oh, I'm going to even try to use 3 inch fat hub for rear of the NEXT frame of not adding on the flywheel. I do not use PAS majority of time unless power level low, use my e bikes like a moped scooter
So you CAN lace this huge ass motor on a moubtain bike rim?
Only a certain rim, has to be strong enough to hold that hub motor
Hey brother! I got joke🤣🤣 I think I got a good deal? 🤣 QS 233 and monitor, and sabaton 100 for 489.00. 135 drop out. Was wondering if could make it 175 for fat tire bike?
Term your looking for.. not give it Gas.. Give it the juice! Lol just made up🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣
I need a frame!
Can i put 138 mm rear hub put in 135 mm dropout?
Heck yeah, the qs205 is a 150mm dropouts and it fits just fine
Im having problems with mine if i try to wheel spin it ? It just pops of
Out the dropouts???
Use that Flatout and it will seal that whole ASAP.
Do you think it would be possible for me to text you a couple pictures of my battery I'm working on for your advice? Thank you for the consideration!
Sure let me know when you ready
Ok when I get home I'll get back with you
@@E-bikeguy cool I appreciate it!
I took it off just to make this video lol well I might as well change the tube
Are you a mechanic?
Well I used to be a welder by trade then I picked up the mechanic skills when I was 14 by my next door neighbor, they was into racing from
There on I been working on my own stuff I have a gmc yukon turbo and my kids use to be in motocross so I work on their bikes, I'm say I'm more of a Mr. Fix it DAD
@@E-bikeguy Cool, what do you do for work if you don't mind me asking?
I do small engines on part time jobs when I'm not working on ebikes
That happened to me
Hit me up if you see this want to talk about a bike build
For inquiries email me at theebikeguy08@gmail.com
I have a 29inch in my qs205 want drop in what did you have to do to drop the motor on to that bike
It's not that hard, it drops in no problems just to get your spacing right with the brakes
@E-bikeguy it drop but I had to take the freewheel off for it to fit I wish I can show you
@Gene Griffin what freewheel you have? Send me a picture at theebikeguy08@gmail.com
Your welcome bro