If you aren't up for building your own, these actually seem like pretty stout universal torque arms. As an Amazon Associate may I earn from qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you): Rear Torque Arm: ► amzn.to/3vM76hw Front Torque Arm: ► amzn.to/3PbA3Kq
I'm not an angry person but thank you for remaining so calm. I mean the bottom line on this whole thing is why do they not provide the adequate space are required to put this thing together correctly. Pure and simple. I mean the fact that they don't have adequate instructions just adds to the frustration. And then to install it and start grinding away and damaging the part. Then having to negotiate a return is even more frustrating. I'm at withstand with these people. Why can they not supply adequate instructions and why can they not supply adequate parts. Mark Mann M2
Chapeau! This is what I call a top notch video: it addresses precisely a problem that many of us amateurs face at the moment I'm sure, structure, sequence, speed, camera and voiceover - all 10 out of 10 for me! Thanks and a big well done!!!
Thank you for explaining the rear wheel install. I have the same issue after I left the bike shop. They placed three washers on the inside axil, which prevents the wheel to free spin. I now have to remove the wheel and start over. But because of your thorough explanation I can proceed with confidence to do it myself. Thanks again, Russ.
Glad I found your video just about to install torque arms to replace torque washers and you explain exactly what I need to know , bravo 👏All installed now and work great , left original torque washers in as a back up too!
Not the issue I'm looking into but very good video. Yes it's hard to find the finer details of this stuff. Hopefully fewer will be riding around with a poor setup now because of you.
Thanks in advance (just watching now as ill be getting my 1500 48v rear hub kit in a few days time) because I figured id come across some problems when fitting the kit to my 26" mtb... Just watched your 'torque arm" vid and thanks, it was super helpful as id forgot to order one (may make one too, no cnc machine though😅)..ill order one though to be safe, thankyou, your vids are excellent Sir!
Thx. The reason why we don't have these videos is because everyone just copies content from the last guy, and content becomes the same and lazy. This is evident when you see a mistake or a lie told in one video and then you begin to see most videos on the same topic have the same mistake/lie/misleading information from all other content creators.
great video! exactly what is missing from other videos and manuals. I had the same problem - cassette lockring rubbing against frame- and added a spacer, but now the bearing in the freehub broke. Too much pressure? No spacers inside the freehub? Are there multiple bearings in the freehub+wheel, like a normal wheel? I don't know, because I can't get the freehub off. Any ideas? Would you know what it looks like on the inside of the hub and motor regarding spacers and bearings? A diagram like you made for the normal wheel would be so helpfull.
Great video! Let me suggest one thing? when you have the camera pointing to the back of the bike showing the washer positions. you could use a bright flashlight as you are talking about the sides instead of pointing with your hand. I could not see clearly the most important spot there. If you do this the video would be the best on the web explaining this! great job anyhow and thanks!
Just out of curiosity, I noticed around the 10:44 mark of the video that the spikes don’t appear to be seated in the right hand side of the hub. Does that create an issue ?
ty for the comprehensive vid share! For 5000kw motors, would it be advisable to set the torque washers inside the frame followed by a torque arm and then axle flange nut?
Kind of hard to say without seeing the set up. 5000 is pretty serious, I would try and do double torque arms if possible and you might even have to reinforce the frame depending on the bike...
i noticed a problem on my ebike conversion kit .. the biggest sprocket on tear hub wheel is so close to the motor , that the rear derailer is hitting the motor 😒😒😒 I am not sure if it's a cassette style, but it pisses me off .. why they cannot assemble it properly so that we do not have such hassles with it
@@EmbraceMaking lol 🤣🤣🤣 yeah ..: i solved it by disabling 1st (largest) cog on that freewheel because, anyway, in fact, who needs that first cog when 1500watts are in the hub ready to kick the ass :))
🤗Thanks - Nice truly helpful video. I decided not to canibalise my other wheel tho ...so I bought n chopped a rear axle spacer to size (meant for pit/dirt bikes from dirt/pit bike parts shop) , then used a washer against the cut face and dropout. Dirt/pit bike axle spacers come in various axle sizes, fits n sits through/above the lock ring
Nice video ! GOOD INFO I USED THE U CLIP FROM A TORQUE ARM KIT PUT ON TOP OF CASSETTE SAYS ON NICE PERFECT FIT ON MY 1000W REAR HUB ON VINTAGE 93 Giant SEDONA ATX
Hello, thank you for this guide in advance and am awaiting proper spacers for the hub. After installing my kit (because i couldnt wait to at least test it out), I find i cannot pedal at all due to the pressure caused by the frame onto my cassette. the wheel will still freewheel just pedalling is jammed at the moment, correct spacing should alleviate this hopefully
@@EmbraceMaking hey again tried with a 19diam, 22length 14/15 clearance inner spacer. Works but in hindsight was aluminium, new one is 20 and stainless steel. Only issue i see is it wants to spin. Which got me thinking wouldn't a threaded spacer be better so its similar to original and wouldn't prevent friction on both sides and would tighten better
My rear wheel just keeps falling off I’m fully over it bought a 750 mid drive only to find out my 1000w battery is to powerful land killing my 750w mid drive, stressed so now I’m back to fixing this issue
I’m very good at welding I usually weld a tab on the frame and dump the hose clamps. However you have to be really good at welding….And use the proper electrolytes if you’re doing the arc weld…If it’s too big it will melt through the frame and then you’re screwed. You can also make a hard tail bike full suspension…and make it custom…No flimsy hose clamps…Hose clamps make it look uglier, and jerry rigged.
I’ in las Vegas and have ebike. It’s over 109 degrees and I couldn’t understand why my bike is messed up.I won’t have to pedal and kill myself and get heat stroke. Thank you so much! I was soooo confused and I am less confused. You are a hero and a saint. 10000x thank you
I have a Voilamart kit and the 7 speed freewheel supplied is too long, the shoulder on the spindle is “inside” the freewheel even when it’s screwed all the way on, yes I can space it out but it then throws the wheel off centre in the frame. Annoyingly I’ll need to source a shorter, 5 speed freewheel I think - only option :/
How much resistance to pedling motion does a hub motor like that cause ? If you compare normal cycling before installation of the hub motor to normal cycling after installation ? When the motor is not engaged.
Hard to say "how much" but there is a noticeable amount. Plus all of the added weight of the motor + battery makes regular cycling without the motor assist a little more challenging for sure.
Hi there I have similar issue here. In my case - I used some washers that I filed to fit - but I wasn't aware - that the part that it was sitting on was the moving part - so after sometime - i heard loud clicking noise, i was basically squeezing the motor - so probably battery efficiency was much worst for this reason - plus not sure if i damaged anything inside. My question is - why such a crucial part is not included in those kits, is there anywhere i can buy it now i n Europe?Cheers. I don't want to do it again filing some parts - as its just a fracture of millimetre difference that is needed for this part to work properly i think. Cheers
Probably not included because some bikes might use different sizes... either way its stupid that its never in the instructions. A ton of people make this mistake.
I am in the exact same predicament, except with a FREEWHEEL...I can't comprehend how you stop the SPACER rubbing on the HUB motor Side part though ?...Anyone recommend the correct SPACER, etc ?
I have a freewheel cassette I'm thinking of putting washers for the axle to separate the cassette from the bike frame. I have a 1500w and can't find a bolt anywhere to properly secure the rim to the bike
Try looking up "bicycle rear hub cone" or "bicycle rear hub spacer" ... some of them are threaded but I believe that is going to depend on how far down the threads run on your axle. If you look closely, my spacer was not threaded and on the new shaft the threads did not run all the way down to the face of the bearing. So if my new part had threads to match the ones on the new axle, they would be useless anyways because the new spacer would not be able to sit on the inner race of the bearing... so I would have had to drill them out I believe.
The thread of the shaft eats the aluminum frame's dropout like a saw, Because of it I lost 2 hub motor, cable spun and then got broken the cable. The shaft shouldn't have a thread where touch the frame's dropout .
@@EmbraceMaking I wouldn't say no, I'm after learning myself since the original post so personally I'm okay but I'd say most people don't have the ability to learn without help. I know the information around the generic motors just isn't available, they do however tend to use the very standard sizes like the 6302 for example were in mine, both sides were different i can't remember what the other one is, but the demonstration would definitely be helpful, in my opinion anyway, but what do i know 😛 I'll leave it to you😜
Cheers for that video. So I've ordered a 135mm rear hub cassette motor with a 9-speed cassette. I was then told that the motor is more like 135mm -142mm. My rear dropouts are 135mm and my frame is aluminium. There is some natural flex on the rear dropouts of about 2mm or 3mm. If the wheel arrives and the space is more like 142mm -145mm, would you advise just forcing it in or is there a simpler way - like filing down the hub cassette holder or something??? I don't really want to crack the frame and I don't really want to send the motor back.
I don't want to give you bad advice without being able to see your bike. However... if it were me... if it was a few mm (2-5mm) I would probably do it. I wouldn't file down parts without knowing how thick/thin they are. If you have to stretch the frame 10-15mm and it's an aluminum frame I would try to avoid doing that, especially if the tubes your are spreading are welded. I have a feeling the welds will crack after repeated use. If it were steel I'd feel better about it, but aluminum tends to fatigue and crack.
For people not mechanically inclined it's not the most obvious thing unfortunately. There are probably TH-cam videos explaining how to use scissors or a screw driver lol
Where did you buy that wheel at I've ne se a whe like that. I've had a few. The spindle should be fil with metal smooth. Then when you come to put wheel on you can ues what ever size washer. The wheel nuts people go on about nuts coming loose there are two thing you can use lock tight the best is superglue it might sound a bit different berleave you me it works. When it comes to loosen them nut it takes a hell of power to loosen it doesn't damage thread. The other tip is whool. Rap around the thread a little then put nut on. It takes some putting on but works fine. The best drop of to have on bike is the one where the frame sits on wheel. If you have extra frame get a file and make it deeper then no problem. The word for all these tips is improvise simpel
![แข่งเพิ่มน้ำหนักใน 24 ชั่วโมง!! [Ver 2025]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/20xn0g6k-ec/mqdefault.jpg)
![Installing an Ebike Torque Arm with 1000W Rear hub electric bike motor [DIY EBIKE]](/img/n.gif)
If you aren't up for building your own, these actually seem like pretty stout universal torque arms. As an Amazon Associate may I earn from qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you):
Rear Torque Arm:
► amzn.to/3vM76hw
Front Torque Arm:
► amzn.to/3PbA3Kq
I'm not an angry person but thank you for remaining so calm. I mean the bottom line on this whole thing is why do they not provide the adequate space are required to put this thing together correctly. Pure and simple. I mean the fact that they don't have adequate instructions just adds to the frustration. And then to install it and start grinding away and damaging the part. Then having to negotiate a return is even more frustrating. I'm at withstand with these people. Why can they not supply adequate instructions and why can they not supply adequate parts. Mark Mann M2
Chapeau! This is what I call a top notch video: it addresses precisely a problem that many of us amateurs face at the moment I'm sure, structure, sequence, speed, camera and voiceover - all 10 out of 10 for me! Thanks and a big well done!!!
Thanks for the kind words and I'm glad I could help! Hopefully more people see the video and we can address this pesky problem!
Thank you for explaining the rear wheel install. I have the same issue after I left the bike shop. They placed three washers on the inside axil, which prevents the wheel to free spin. I now have to remove the wheel and start over. But because of your thorough explanation I can proceed with confidence to do it myself. Thanks again, Russ.
No problem Russ! Good luck!
Great video thank you so much. I cannot believe tutorials on ebike kit installation skip this very important part!
I agree, thats why I made this video. I couldn't believe how difficult it was to find info about this online!
Glad I found your video just about to install torque arms to replace torque washers and you explain exactly what I need to know , bravo 👏All installed now and work great , left original torque washers in as a back up too!
Great to hear!
Not the issue I'm looking into but very good video. Yes it's hard to find the finer details of this stuff. Hopefully fewer will be riding around with a poor setup now because of you.
Thanks and I hope so too!
Thank you for this video I really appreciate it, as every project I get into no matter what it is there is information that is glossed over.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks in advance (just watching now as ill be getting my 1500 48v rear hub kit in a few days time) because I figured id come across some problems when fitting the kit to my 26" mtb...
Just watched your 'torque arm" vid and thanks, it was super helpful as id forgot to order one (may make one too, no cnc machine though😅)..ill order one though to be safe, thankyou, your vids are excellent Sir!
Thanks, and best of luck with your project!
Thx. The reason why we don't have these videos is because everyone just copies content from the last guy, and content becomes the same and lazy. This is evident when you see a mistake or a lie told in one video and then you begin to see most videos on the same topic have the same mistake/lie/misleading information from all other content creators.
great video! exactly what is missing from other videos and manuals. I had the same problem - cassette lockring rubbing against frame- and added a spacer, but now the bearing in the freehub broke. Too much pressure? No spacers inside the freehub? Are there multiple bearings in the freehub+wheel, like a normal wheel? I don't know, because I can't get the freehub off. Any ideas? Would you know what it looks like on the inside of the hub and motor regarding spacers and bearings? A diagram like you made for the normal wheel would be so helpfull.
Great video! Let me suggest one thing? when you have the camera pointing to the back of the bike showing the washer positions. you could use a bright flashlight as you are talking about the sides instead of pointing with your hand. I could not see clearly the most important spot there. If you do this the video would be the best on the web explaining this! great job anyhow and thanks!
Just out of curiosity, I noticed around the 10:44 mark of the video that the spikes don’t appear to be seated in the right hand side of the hub. Does that create an issue ?
ty for the comprehensive vid share!
For 5000kw motors, would it be advisable to set the torque washers inside the frame followed by a torque arm and then axle flange nut?
Kind of hard to say without seeing the set up. 5000 is pretty serious, I would try and do double torque arms if possible and you might even have to reinforce the frame depending on the bike...
Good video helped alot I got the same problem. The axle thread bar is a bigger size and need to find some kind of spacer or washer to do the same
Might have to make one, but the concept should be the same!
i noticed a problem on my ebike conversion kit .. the biggest sprocket on tear hub wheel is so close to the motor , that the rear derailer is hitting the motor 😒😒😒 I am not sure if it's a cassette style, but it pisses me off .. why they cannot assemble
it properly so that we do not have such hassles with it
Tough to make a "one size fits all" application so in most cases it ends up being one size fits nothing lol
@@EmbraceMaking lol 🤣🤣🤣 yeah ..: i solved it by disabling 1st (largest) cog on that freewheel because, anyway, in fact, who needs that first cog when 1500watts are in the hub ready to kick the ass :))
I am having this same problem but on a freewheel, not the cassette. Any advice?
Should I install a disc brake instead of using v-brakes or does it matter?
General consensus is that disc brakes are better... especially if you go hydraulic.
🤗Thanks - Nice truly helpful video.
I decided not to canibalise my other wheel tho ...so I bought n chopped a rear axle spacer to size (meant for pit/dirt bikes from dirt/pit bike parts shop) , then used a washer against the cut face and dropout. Dirt/pit bike axle spacers come in various axle sizes, fits n sits through/above the lock ring
Good tip! Do you have a link to those axle spacers you're referring to? Someone else looking through the comments section might find it useful!
@@EmbraceMaking i did for sure, even though im late to this party....
Nice video ! GOOD INFO I USED THE U CLIP FROM A TORQUE ARM KIT PUT ON TOP OF CASSETTE SAYS ON NICE PERFECT FIT ON MY 1000W REAR HUB ON VINTAGE 93 Giant SEDONA ATX
Good stuff! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Hello, thank you for this guide in advance and am awaiting proper spacers for the hub.
After installing my kit (because i couldnt wait to at least test it out), I find i cannot pedal at all due to the pressure caused by the frame onto my cassette.
the wheel will still freewheel just pedalling is jammed at the moment, correct spacing should alleviate this hopefully
Yes it will! This is why I made this video, so many people have this problem unfortunately!
@@EmbraceMaking hey again tried with a 19diam, 22length 14/15 clearance inner spacer. Works but in hindsight was aluminium, new one is 20 and stainless steel. Only issue i see is it wants to spin.
Which got me thinking wouldn't a threaded spacer be better so its similar to original and wouldn't prevent friction on both sides and would tighten better
that is easy, the real problem if you have 12mm thru axle hole on rear bike frame how do you attach the chinese rear hub
Thank you. Very helpful!!!!
You're very welcome :)
I have the problem when pressing break the wheel nut is moving and having zip noise. Been trying to tighten the nut but it still moving
My rear wheel just keeps falling off I’m fully over it bought a 750 mid drive only to find out my 1000w battery is to powerful land killing my 750w mid drive, stressed so now I’m back to fixing this issue
I’m very good at welding I usually weld a tab on the frame and dump the hose clamps.
However you have to be really good at welding….And use the proper electrolytes if you’re doing the arc weld…If it’s too big it will melt through the frame and then you’re screwed.
You can also make a hard tail bike full suspension…and make it custom…No flimsy hose clamps…Hose clamps make it look uglier, and jerry rigged.
Certainly! If you can weld you open up a whole new range of possibilities!
I’ in las Vegas and have ebike. It’s over 109 degrees and I couldn’t understand why my bike is messed up.I won’t have to pedal and kill myself and get heat stroke. Thank you so much! I was soooo confused and I am less confused. You are a hero and a saint. 10000x thank you
Thanks so much, glad I could improve your experience!
i have a hub motor that looks exactly like that one, but did not come with the gear cassette
does anyone know where i can buy the cassette for it?
Try to see if www.leafbike.com/ has what you need.... this is where I got my kit
I have a Voilamart kit and the 7 speed freewheel supplied is too long, the shoulder on the spindle is “inside” the freewheel even when it’s screwed all the way on, yes I can space it out but it then throws the wheel off centre in the frame. Annoyingly I’ll need to source a shorter, 5 speed freewheel I think - only option :/
You wanna post the link where this washer is? THank you
How much resistance to pedling motion does a hub motor like that cause ? If you compare normal cycling before installation of the hub motor to normal cycling after installation ? When the motor is not engaged.
Hard to say "how much" but there is a noticeable amount. Plus all of the added weight of the motor + battery makes regular cycling without the motor assist a little more challenging for sure.
is the wheel dead center ?
Great Topic
Thank you! glad you enjoyed it!
Hi there I have similar issue here. In my case - I used some washers that I filed to fit - but I wasn't aware - that the part that it was sitting on was the moving part - so after sometime - i heard loud clicking noise, i was basically squeezing the motor - so probably battery efficiency was much worst for this reason - plus not sure if i damaged anything inside. My question is - why such a crucial part is not included in those kits, is there anywhere i can buy it now i n Europe?Cheers. I don't want to do it again filing some parts - as its just a fracture of millimetre difference that is needed for this part to work properly i think. Cheers
Probably not included because some bikes might use different sizes... either way its stupid that its never in the instructions. A ton of people make this mistake.
I am in the exact same predicament, except with a FREEWHEEL...I can't comprehend how you stop the SPACER rubbing on the HUB motor Side part though ?...Anyone recommend the correct SPACER, etc ?
I am having trouble with the kit I bought I tried taking it to a bike repair shop and they seem not to know anything
What kind of troubles are you having?
I have a freewheel cassette I'm thinking of putting washers for the axle to separate the cassette from the bike frame. I have a 1500w and can't find a bolt anywhere to properly secure the rim to the bike
My main hub bolt got twisted our of alignment when my torque arm came off. Can I realign them? Couple of wrenches or am I screwed?
The bolt was bent or the drop outs are out of alignment?
What is the name of that spacer you’re using for your hub motor? Please, I need to know…
Try looking up "bicycle rear hub cone" or "bicycle rear hub spacer" ... some of them are threaded but I believe that is going to depend on how far down the threads run on your axle. If you look closely, my spacer was not threaded and on the new shaft the threads did not run all the way down to the face of the bearing. So if my new part had threads to match the ones on the new axle, they would be useless anyways because the new spacer would not be able to sit on the inner race of the bearing... so I would have had to drill them out I believe.
@@EmbraceMaking Are they 10mm?
is it possible to convert a front hub motor to a rear hub motor?
Nice video thx you for this great information both my ebikes are grinding my washers
Glad I could help!
What bike is this please
Great video, thanks
Glad you liked it!
How can I fix chain rub on rear tire on gear 6 and 7?
Might have to space it out if you have room in your drop outs or go with a narrower tire?
Use a tire with a thinner width and pump it up harder
Nice! what is the number of cogs/speeds that can be put in a cassette rear hub?
7, i think most leafbike motors allow for 5, 6, or 7 speed cassette hub
Upto 10 on most with cassette type, only 7 on older screw on type freewheel
Camera angles very bad i can't see how sorted out the bolt's and spacers! 😕☹️
The thread of the shaft eats the aluminum frame's dropout like a saw, Because of it I lost 2 hub motor, cable spun and then got broken the cable. The shaft shouldn't have a thread where touch the frame's dropout .
Do you convert bike to.e bike plz?
Are you based in london
Hi! Sorry I do not provide this service!
Anychance you could do bearing changes on some hubs and stuff like bearing sizes on those 1500w hubs from china, most people i find just buy Chinese.
Hi Aaron, are you asking for a video to show how to replace bearings in these motors?
@@EmbraceMaking I wouldn't say no, I'm after learning myself since the original post so personally I'm okay but I'd say most people don't have the ability to learn without help. I know the information around the generic motors just isn't available, they do however tend to use the very standard sizes like the 6302 for example were in mine, both sides were different i can't remember what the other one is, but the demonstration would definitely be helpful, in my opinion anyway, but what do i know 😛 I'll leave it to you😜
Really useful, thanks
You're welcome!
Do you have experience with converting 148 boost dropout?
Sorry, I don't... but what is the issue you are having?
lifesaver!!
Glad it helped you! I couldn't find this info anywhere so I made the video :)
@@EmbraceMaking If you're ever in Peterborough ON - I'll buy you a beer
Just install a torque arm and one and done. Never mind he finally said that lol.
Thanks 😊
You're welcome! Hope it helped!
Dude. Right you are!
Thanks David, and thanks for watching!
These disk brakes are a pain in the neck when it comes to putting the wheel back.
Yeah sometimes it can be annoying to line them up
True
Cheers for that video.
So I've ordered a 135mm rear hub cassette motor with a 9-speed cassette. I was then told that the motor is more like 135mm -142mm.
My rear dropouts are 135mm and my frame is aluminium. There is some natural flex on the rear dropouts of about 2mm or 3mm. If the wheel arrives and the space is more like 142mm -145mm, would you advise just forcing it in or is there a simpler way - like filing down the hub cassette holder or something??? I don't really want to crack the frame and I don't really want to send the motor back.
I don't want to give you bad advice without being able to see your bike. However... if it were me... if it was a few mm (2-5mm) I would probably do it. I wouldn't file down parts without knowing how thick/thin they are. If you have to stretch the frame 10-15mm and it's an aluminum frame I would try to avoid doing that, especially if the tubes your are spreading are welded. I have a feeling the welds will crack after repeated use. If it were steel I'd feel better about it, but aluminum tends to fatigue and crack.
thanks , this is my issue thats driven me up the wall
got my wheel running free now but motor sounding like my gears are striped, could the lack of washer caused that ?
Ty.
You're very welcome! Hopefully you gave the video a like, if not, come on back and help me out too :)
Would you know how to solve this issue, my rear hub (1500w) is rubbing with my rear hydraulic brake ????
Might have to space out your brake caliper... this may also mean spacing out your disc to accommodate.
It's sad that some people might need this video to help them figure it out.
For people not mechanically inclined it's not the most obvious thing unfortunately. There are probably TH-cam videos explaining how to use scissors or a screw driver lol
I thought this was about motor maintenance 👨🔧
Where did you buy that wheel at I've ne se a whe like that. I've had a few. The spindle should be fil with metal smooth. Then when you come to put wheel on you can ues what ever size washer. The wheel nuts people go on about nuts coming loose there are two thing you can use lock tight the best is superglue it might sound a bit different berleave you me it works. When it comes to loosen them nut it takes a hell of power to loosen it doesn't damage thread. The other tip is whool. Rap around the thread a little then put nut on. It takes some putting on but works fine. The best drop of to have on bike is the one where the frame sits on wheel. If you have extra frame get a file and make it deeper then no problem. The word for all these tips is improvise simpel
I bought the wheel and hub motor on Leaf Bike
@@EmbraceMaking You seem to be missing a part on the spindle for sure.
Sorry, that should have read “spokes”
Play on 2x
Was I speaking too slow?
Just get a freewheel hub motor. Problem solved