How To Add Extra Support To Any Deck
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- Today I'm going to teach you how to add more support to a deck if you need it. In this example, we are adding it to stair STRINGERS but you can use these techniques anywhere you might need them.
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Recorded & Edited By: linktr.ee/calv...
#drdecks #deckbuilding #howtobuildadeck #howtoaddsupport
Amazing, such a good timing. I still need to do my deck stairs and keep procrastinating due to fear. This method gives me hope if I mess up, that there is a solution. Thank you, drdecks, you are the best!
Very helpful! Here in South Louisiana, have a similar frost heave so can use that type of footing.
@DrDecks~ Can you tell me the brand and size of the Tapered Hex Shank Pre-Drill Bit you used to help sink the long timber screw into the staircase? Last summer, I had to do a bunch of repairs to shore up the post rigidity of an old fence at a house my son was renting. I had a hell of time getting the 6" Timber LOK Structural Hex Head Wood Screws to drive into the weathered posts! To make matters worse, I was visiting from out of town so I had a limited number of drill bits packed in my travel tool box, and all were too wide and not long enough for the job. I sounded like Yosemite Sam, cursing while working on the fence! HaHaHA.... Nevertheless, I NEED to get that drill bit you showed in the video into my collection! thanks ~~Christy~~
Home depot doesn't sell these footing in Minnesota, I guess because of our frost heave. I think it would be fine for my 3-season porch since it's completely enclosed and the ground underneath stays bone dry and shouldn't ever heave. I need to add some support and this adjustable bracket would make it super easy to do without risking jacking up the original 1920s floor frame.
Menard's here has concrete footings that are just flat 3.5" thick 12x12 octogons. Does it seem reasonable to stack two of those, drill a hole through the top one, and then drop the bracket thing in there?
thanks
I didn't know you had dirt that was that dry!!
Cool
I'd be more concerned about those 4x4's holding up the massive 4x12 drop beam the length of the actual deck.
The multiple 4x4' posts along with lag screws every 12" along the full length of the ledger board have held up just fine all this time. You have to go back 3-4 videos to see his complete assessment of the deck frame structure. It was solid.
@CALB2009
Yes, I've watched that video. And if you're referring to the ledger board improperly attached to the house cantilevered bump-out........I noticed that too.
"The International Residential Code prohibits attaching deck ledgers to the rim joists of cantilevered floors. It is, therefore, not possible to fasten a deck ledger to a cantilevered building frame."
Also (in his demo video of this project), you can see those 4x4 posts are over 8'. Code requires 6x6 beyond that height. In addition, the drop beam overhangs the far left post (facing the house) a good 4'. Beam span tables allow an overhang of no more than 1'10" for a 4x12 Douglass fir beam, with spans no greater than 7'6" between supports.
I'm not opposed to salvaging the substructure of my customers' decks. In fact, on average, 1 in 10 projects involve reusing most of the existing framing. However, swapping out those posts with 6x6 (seat notched and lag bolted to the beam) at proper spacing and correcting the ledger issue by following the approved "H" framing method around the bump out section of the house would be my reccomendation.