Thanks! I know it can be, it was the same for me. All these numbers with no real guide, it just doesn't make much sense, but working with the increments I mention and knowing what to look for, really helps flesh the car out in a quicker manner. The other guides didn't explain this so people waste time doing 1-2 clicks here and there and at that rate, you will be tuning forever.
YES!!! THIS IS WHAT I HAVE NEEDED!! I have always been cautious and never understood what all the suspension settings etc meant properly and this video has cleared so much of it up. Even took down notes so I have quick references when I attempt this. Gotten so sick of the Gr3/Gr4 BoP races I've been wanting to do road car/tuning races - Now it doesn't seem so daunting to give it a shot. Thanks again
Awesome sauce! It's a pretty good and simple way to get started, I tried to make it not so daunting. I will eventually do an expert version, but this works out pretty well. It's a blast to tune cars for your own driving style. Good luck and happy tuning! ❤️
Just watched this, very helpful and am excited to apply it to a few cars I'm planning to run at street wars. I've just been guessing what does what with not much progress. Thanks for all your work!
Averages on most straights in the game between low and high downforce is about 13 MPH. Not worth it in my opinion. That time will easily be made up in corners on most tracks. But, you have to test that and find out for yourself. 😁
Great video. Would love to see you choose a random car and go through the whole gearing/tuning process. Maybe set a couple lap times stock then gear and tune and see the improvement. Thanks for sharing!
This is a game changer for me. I’ve been trying adjustments based on how they would affect a car irl but your way just kills it. GT6 had much more realistic affects when tuning.
GT7's tuning IS far from realistic. I tried the same thing and tried other guides and they made it overly complicated. Glad it's helped give you some direction and go out and have fun exploring different options!
@@markygti138 I know. I am wondering what they will be doing as well. Hopefully a better tire model. The cars could do much better than they currently are. Either way, it's good to brush up on it, it will make it easier to adapt when the time comes.
@@prtcountersteer so the World Series guys have tested it and said it’s suspension changes but given the cars will now use Michelin tyres I wonder if they have some real world data to use for new tyre models?
@markygti138 I assume they will. The suspension has been understeering badly for a few patches now, but it's the tire model I feel that is lacking. Who knows! I will probably do a video of the update and the changes I feel and others feel. PRT has almost 30 members and we are a tuning group who experiment with everything in a myriad of different racing seasons. I'm sure we would figure out what they changed. This was the previous patch updates, not mentioned, but what we had found out . . . Patch V1.31 Updates - Braking feels better, but the cars now want to brake in a straight line. With that said. A slight tap of the brakes on a corner helps the front drop and give a bit more angle. - Hand Brake is really improved and you can hold onto it much longer now as long if you have shifted the body weight before hand. - Tire grip is not as good as it use to be. - Need more throttle control to get the cars to hook up coming out of corners. You will spin the hell out of your tires now. - Rear downforce now increases understeer even more. Downforce in general is not as affective as it once was and some cars even had their numbers lowered for applicable downforce. - Toe is more sensitive to changes now, lower numbers is probably best. - Natural Frequency is softer in general now and I notice a lot of cars are now bottoming out against the fenders and killing any turn radius you had before. - Anti-Roll Bar is more sensitive to changes now and has a more dramatic affect on how the car's body rolls. - LSD settings have been altered and will GREATLY affect your initial turn in on corners. You don't need as high numbers, especially on Acceleration and Braking. *Food for thought: All the cars are driving different and they wont be driving like they use to. Don't try to tune it to extremes to get back to how it use to be, you will only be spinning out. I recommend trying a car you haven't driven and tuning it. It will help with learning how the game is now. I think possibly not running the roll cage and body Rigidity may help recover some turning ability without hindering the car and giving a crazy amount of 'rebound' ( when the car snaps away from you ). Lowering all dampening should give more pivot to the car. Softer natural frequency helps. Transmission gearing need to be made longer in the first 2-3 gears to compensate for the lack of traction this update. --------------------------------- Patch v1.30: Camber is starting to have negative affects. Can run it 0.00 and be better off. Another physics change with weight shifting now makes the cars more dramatic. Braking balance has changed and become more touchy. --------------------------------- Patch v1.27: - Cars now have even more steering angle which increases oversteer. - Steering wheel adapter functions better. - Camber now has increased, more realistic, effect! - Roll Cage updated again; higher level roll cages add even more stiffness to car instead of all of them having the same value. - Weight balance between acceleration and braking more pronounced. Believe they are trying to force more straight line braking. --------------------------------- Patch v1.25: - Roll Cage now makes the car stiffer/flatter around corners which eliminates some body roll thus inducing understeer. - Chassis Rigidity also does the same and is more pronounced this patch. ---------------------------------
So for the gear ratio tuning, can we use that method with any car we be using? I tend to find the RPM ranges where I make max torque and max HP and then tune my gear ratios to where the RPM's stay within that range when shifting.
Yes, you can. Though, finding out the best way for traction in 1st and where your top speed in your last gear falls into your powerband is often the best way. I explain a simple way to do it in my gear ratio video. If you are manually shifting, you can shift at those points. Automatics will always shift at redline.
I meant like is it worth it adjusting gear ratios on AT so my rpm doesn't drop too low after gear chance, currently for my TS050 I adjusted it so I won't let my rpm go below 7k
8:528:52 Appreciate you! Thx for explaining this mess while managing not to make it overly complicated. Too easy and I love my car now. I'm pretty new. 😁😁😁.
Welcome to the game! It has so many different things you can do with your car. I tried to make it as simple as possible. Hope it helps and have fun! If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
@@prtcountersteer I actually do have a question. I didn't realize till I was all done that I had forgot to add my high power turbo. So I added it on and re arranged the gear ratios. Slight tweaking on the downforce. I haven't been back to trial mountain but the car seems fine. Going forward. Should I do suspension and all that with the mods off the car or would you recommend having them on?
@@prtcountersteer you suggest modifying completely the suspension and then try it out and do adjustments, or for example; modifying the height and test it right away.
Yes, do one row at a time until you get a better understanding of what is happening with the car. This is a good way to "feel" it out. Once you get how it affects the car, you can do it anyway you want and it will be faster.
Man this is amazing keep up the consistency and eventually you’ll blow up, have been looking for this for years, that first example is all of my drift builds right now lol, thank you brother
Great video. Subbed. 👍🏻. One problem I come across is cars that snap side to side. By that I mean you make a move to the left to avoid a heavy breaker and the car then snaps to the right and then back to the left and back to the right etc. same thing trying to navigate a chicane. is this an ARB, spring, ride height or damper issue and how do I tune it out. Basically the car behaves with slow smooth moves but any quick move and you’re into a snaking escalation that ends with a spin into the wall😂. Any advice appreciated.
Thanks! There are a number of things that can help tone that down. I would try these . . . 1) Try maxing out your LSD. All 60's and work your way down in sets of 10. LSD has become much more sensitive since the latest patches. Higher numbers create a bit of understeer when shifting from acceleration to braking. But, it makes the cars behavior from the transition more predictable. Give it a whirl at all 60's and see how you feel about it. Then work your way down in the numbers. LSD Initial torque is a constant, 60 would be like 100% of whatever your acceleration and braking is at any given time. This setting is quite deceptive. At 60 it would give 100% of whatever your acceleration and braking is. But, at 30, it will only give you 50% of whatever your acceleration and braking are and slowly introduce you to the max number that your acceleration and braking are. LSD Acceleration is how even the driving tires share power when you are ON throttle. 60 would be like an old school posi' and have the tires locked and spinning at the same time with power. Great for putting down power, but bad for cornering as the inside tire would be spinning as fast as the outside tire and can create the car to slip and lose traction. LSD Braking evens it all out. This is noticable anytime you are off throttle and/or braking. Higher numbers keep the differential locked ( both tires spinning equally ) so when slowing down, the car is more predictable. Lower numbers here will unlock it and give you a bit of snap oversteer. Like I said, try them all maxed out and work your way down starting with Acceleration, Then Braking, and lastly do Initial Torque. 2) Front Dampeners will help snap oversteer from slowing down. Whatever your rear is set to, raise the front dampeners by 5 and if you need it more controlled, do another set of 5. 3) Height. The game has become really sensitive to body height. The cars do not like to be bottomed out. While not true for all cars, it's generally a good rule of thumb to run 10-20 more height than the lowest body height you can use. 4) Too much front downforce can cause this as well. You can try lowering it in increments of 20 to see if it makes it feel better. Good luck and happy tuning!
@@prtcountersteer oh my god. Not just a quick reply but a detailed one too. Thank you. I will give that all a try tomorrow. ( I’ve just been psvr2ing it for last couple hours so it’s wifey time now). I’m not a top driver but I like taking rubbish cars and pumping them up to compete against more modern higher power cars. This is going to help. 👍🏻
@@georgevasilopoulos5359 Try maxed out 60 throughout all of it. What makes LSD tuning tricky is, it greatly influences how the car is, so you sort of have to make adjustments for the suspension to compensate. What issue are you having with yours? This is me in a random race online with mine. th-cam.com/video/w3UXwgqIBGE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HPtIruPBK1jncPAd
Running FF cars, listening to this... toe out both front and rear really helped with white heavy braking I'd over steer and not be able to recover.. but it handles way better with toe out front and back. Im at .25f and .15r
Finally took time to set one up following all your tuning shorts. Was working on Aero and went to duplicate and accidentally hit delete 😡. Round 2 begins now lol
Aw mannn, I've done that! After you get use to knowing what to look for, you can fly through the settings and honestly, each time you re-do it, you find something better! Let me know how it turns out!
@@prtcountersteer so this is my 1st time actually running through ALL of your videos to find a tune (well 2nd if u count last night's F*** up.....) Have u paid attention to how far off your tunes end up compared to default? I mean obviously top speed and final are prolly WAY different. But as far as everything else?
There is a lot of reasons for this. - Ride Height Could be too low and tires are binding on front fenders, making you go straight. - Dampeners on front are too high, try making them 5 less than the rear. - Natural Frequency is too high in the front, lower by 20. - Sometimes putting brake balance 1 to the rear helps. - Too much rear downforce. Try lowering by increments of 10.
Gear Ratio video here:
th-cam.com/video/hV-pIxRpUdc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=M3DyDfgPp64S4xwM
By far the best tuning video I’ve seen on the tube. You simplify it to a point an idiot like myself can understand. Got a sub from me!
Awesome stuff! Thank you, sir!
100% I’m 🔒 in for sure
This and your gear ratios video are the most helpful I have seen. Very overwhelming for new players, thanks so much for sharing your expertise.
Thanks! I know it can be, it was the same for me. All these numbers with no real guide, it just doesn't make much sense, but working with the increments I mention and knowing what to look for, really helps flesh the car out in a quicker manner.
The other guides didn't explain this so people waste time doing 1-2 clicks here and there and at that rate, you will be tuning forever.
YES!!! THIS IS WHAT I HAVE NEEDED!! I have always been cautious and never understood what all the suspension settings etc meant properly and this video has cleared so much of it up. Even took down notes so I have quick references when I attempt this.
Gotten so sick of the Gr3/Gr4 BoP races I've been wanting to do road car/tuning races - Now it doesn't seem so daunting to give it a shot. Thanks again
Awesome sauce! It's a pretty good and simple way to get started, I tried to make it not so daunting. I will eventually do an expert version, but this works out pretty well.
It's a blast to tune cars for your own driving style. Good luck and happy tuning! ❤️
finally a useful guide! thank you!
This content is outstanding, clear and to the point. Will be watching again!
Thanks! If you just need a certain section, I broke it down into shorter videos as well. 🙏
Thanks for this it’s so simply explained that I feel confident to tune myself now 👍
Anytime! Let me know how it goes and if you have any questions.
Happy tuning!
Just watched this, very helpful and am excited to apply it to a few cars I'm planning to run at street wars. I've just been guessing what does what with not much progress. Thanks for all your work!
It's some stuff to look out for! Glad to have you and you will find what you're looking for! It's going to be a great season in "Street Wars: 🔴 vs 🔵"
I'd bet your from Pennsylvania. downforce will ALWAYS SLOW THE CAR DOWN. the only upside to downforce is high speed cornering
Averages on most straights in the game between low and high downforce is about 13 MPH.
Not worth it in my opinion. That time will easily be made up in corners on most tracks.
But, you have to test that and find out for yourself. 😁
@@prtcountersteer are you from PA?
@@TecraTube Yup.
great vid, never saw this one before
I don't advertise it too much. It's my simplified version of tuning. 😁
Great video. Would love to see you choose a random car and go through the whole gearing/tuning process. Maybe set a couple lap times stock then gear and tune and see the improvement. Thanks for sharing!
Great idea! I will give it a whirl sometime! I just went through surgery so I will be down for a while.
Just helping with the algorithm
Thanks for this non-profit. 😊
This is a game changer for me. I’ve been trying adjustments based on how they would affect a car irl but your way just kills it. GT6 had much more realistic affects when tuning.
GT7's tuning IS far from realistic. I tried the same thing and tried other guides and they made it overly complicated.
Glad it's helped give you some direction and go out and have fun exploring different options!
@@prtcountersteer just annoying I found this and in 2 weeks they’re changing the physics again.
@@markygti138 I know. I am wondering what they will be doing as well. Hopefully a better tire model. The cars could do much better than they currently are.
Either way, it's good to brush up on it, it will make it easier to adapt when the time comes.
@@prtcountersteer so the World Series guys have tested it and said it’s suspension changes but given the cars will now use Michelin tyres I wonder if they have some real world data to use for new tyre models?
@markygti138 I assume they will. The suspension has been understeering badly for a few patches now, but it's the tire model I feel that is lacking.
Who knows! I will probably do a video of the update and the changes I feel and others feel.
PRT has almost 30 members and we are a tuning group who experiment with everything in a myriad of different racing seasons.
I'm sure we would figure out what they changed. This was the previous patch updates, not mentioned, but what we had found out . . .
Patch V1.31 Updates
- Braking feels better, but the cars now want to brake in a straight line. With that said. A slight tap of the brakes on a corner helps the front drop and give a bit more angle.
- Hand Brake is really improved and you can hold onto it much longer now as long if you have shifted the body weight before hand.
- Tire grip is not as good as it use to be.
- Need more throttle control to get the cars to hook up coming out of corners. You will spin the hell out of your tires now.
- Rear downforce now increases understeer even more. Downforce in general is not as affective as it once was and some cars even had their numbers lowered for applicable downforce.
- Toe is more sensitive to changes now, lower numbers is probably best.
- Natural Frequency is softer in general now and I notice a lot of cars are now bottoming out against the fenders and killing any turn radius you had before.
- Anti-Roll Bar is more sensitive to changes now and has a more dramatic affect on how the car's body rolls.
- LSD settings have been altered and will GREATLY affect your initial turn in on corners. You don't need as high numbers, especially on Acceleration and Braking.
*Food for thought:
All the cars are driving different and they wont be driving like they use to. Don't try to tune it to extremes to get back to how it use to be, you will only be spinning out. I recommend trying a car you haven't driven and tuning it. It will help with learning how the game is now.
I think possibly not running the roll cage and body Rigidity may help recover some turning ability without hindering the car and giving a crazy amount of 'rebound' ( when the car snaps away from you ). Lowering all dampening should give more pivot to the car.
Softer natural frequency helps. Transmission gearing need to be made longer in the first 2-3 gears to compensate for the lack of traction this update.
---------------------------------
Patch v1.30:
Camber is starting to have negative affects. Can run it 0.00 and be better off.
Another physics change with weight shifting now makes the cars more dramatic.
Braking balance has changed and become more touchy.
---------------------------------
Patch v1.27:
- Cars now have even more steering angle which increases oversteer.
- Steering wheel adapter functions better.
- Camber now has increased, more realistic, effect!
- Roll Cage updated again; higher level roll cages add even more stiffness to car instead of all of them having the same value.
- Weight balance between acceleration and braking more pronounced. Believe they are trying to force more straight line braking.
---------------------------------
Patch v1.25:
- Roll Cage now makes the car stiffer/flatter around corners which eliminates some body roll thus inducing understeer.
- Chassis Rigidity also does the same and is more pronounced this patch.
---------------------------------
So for the gear ratio tuning, can we use that method with any car we be using? I tend to find the RPM ranges where I make max torque and max HP and then tune my gear ratios to where the RPM's stay within that range when shifting.
Yes, you can. Though, finding out the best way for traction in 1st and where your top speed in your last gear falls into your powerband is often the best way. I explain a simple way to do it in my gear ratio video. If you are manually shifting, you can shift at those points. Automatics will always shift at redline.
I meant like is it worth it adjusting gear ratios on AT so my rpm doesn't drop too low after gear chance, currently for my TS050 I adjusted it so I won't let my rpm go below 7k
8:52 8:52 Appreciate you! Thx for explaining this mess while managing not to make it overly complicated. Too easy and I love my car now. I'm pretty new. 😁😁😁.
Welcome to the game! It has so many different things you can do with your car. I tried to make it as simple as possible. Hope it helps and have fun! If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
@@prtcountersteer it's an 86 grb rally. My first laps were 221. Xxx at the trial mountain. By the time I finished I was at 205.772.
@@prtcountersteer I actually do have a question. I didn't realize till I was all done that I had forgot to add my high power turbo. So I added it on and re arranged the gear ratios. Slight tweaking on the downforce. I haven't been back to trial mountain but the car seems fine. Going forward. Should I do suspension and all that with the mods off the car or would you recommend having them on?
@@danburch8880 Wow, that's a HUGE improvement! Great job! As far as the parts, put them on first then adjust the car.
@@prtcountersteer 👍thanks!
This video is the best one. Shout out to you sir, do you recommend this to
Do with good tires and car modify?
Thanks! You can do it with any tires and car modifications.
@@prtcountersteer you suggest modifying completely the suspension and then try it out and do adjustments, or for example; modifying the height and test it right away.
Yes, do one row at a time until you get a better understanding of what is happening with the car.
This is a good way to "feel" it out. Once you get how it affects the car, you can do it anyway you want and it will be faster.
@@prtcountersteer thank you so much, my car is 100% better now!!
Great tuning guide! It has helped me a lot!
Anytime! Hope it helps and have fun tuning. 😊
Is there a way to join all of you racing?
Yes, you can find our group on Facebook. Just search "PRT".
Man this is amazing keep up the consistency and eventually you’ll blow up, have been looking for this for years, that first example is all of my drift builds right now lol, thank you brother
Anytime! I love tuning and you can do so many different things with it! Have fun! 😁
Great video. Subbed. 👍🏻. One problem I come across is cars that snap side to side. By that I mean you make a move to the left to avoid a heavy breaker and the car then snaps to the right and then back to the left and back to the right etc. same thing trying to navigate a chicane. is this an ARB, spring, ride height or damper issue and how do I tune it out. Basically the car behaves with slow smooth moves but any quick move and you’re into a snaking escalation that ends with a spin into the wall😂. Any advice appreciated.
Thanks! There are a number of things that can help tone that down.
I would try these . . .
1) Try maxing out your LSD. All 60's and work your way down in sets of 10. LSD has become much more sensitive since the latest patches. Higher numbers create a bit of understeer when shifting from acceleration to braking. But, it makes the cars behavior from the transition more predictable. Give it a whirl at all 60's and see how you feel about it. Then work your way down in the numbers.
LSD Initial torque is a constant, 60 would be like 100% of whatever your acceleration and braking is at any given time. This setting is quite deceptive. At 60 it would give 100% of whatever your acceleration and braking is. But, at 30, it will only give you 50% of whatever your acceleration and braking are and slowly introduce you to the max number that your acceleration and braking are.
LSD Acceleration is how even the driving tires share power when you are ON throttle. 60 would be like an old school posi' and have the tires locked and spinning at the same time with power. Great for putting down power, but bad for cornering as the inside tire would be spinning as fast as the outside tire and can create the car to slip and lose traction.
LSD Braking evens it all out. This is noticable anytime you are off throttle and/or braking. Higher numbers keep the differential locked ( both tires spinning equally ) so when slowing down, the car is more predictable. Lower numbers here will unlock it and give you a bit of snap oversteer.
Like I said, try them all maxed out and work your way down starting with Acceleration, Then Braking, and lastly do Initial Torque.
2) Front Dampeners will help snap oversteer from slowing down. Whatever your rear is set to, raise the front dampeners by 5 and if you need it more controlled, do another set of 5.
3) Height. The game has become really sensitive to body height. The cars do not like to be bottomed out.
While not true for all cars, it's generally a good rule of thumb to run 10-20 more height than the lowest body height you can use.
4) Too much front downforce can cause this as well. You can try lowering it in increments of 20 to see if it makes it feel better.
Good luck and happy tuning!
@@prtcountersteer oh my god. Not just a quick reply but a detailed one too. Thank you. I will give that all a try tomorrow. ( I’ve just been psvr2ing it for last couple hours so it’s wifey time now). I’m not a top driver but I like taking rubbish cars and pumping them up to compete against more modern higher power cars. This is going to help. 👍🏻
@@crazywrx1 Anytime! Go give the Wife some love and enjoy the rest of your day!
damn my mr2 swapped widebody ae86 was a pain in the butt to tune
It's a touchy car. Really likes higher numbers on the LSD and 50/50 weight ballast.
@@prtcountersteer like 60 on acceleration and brake?
@@georgevasilopoulos5359 Try maxed out 60 throughout all of it. What makes LSD tuning tricky is, it greatly influences how the car is, so you sort of have to make adjustments for the suspension to compensate.
What issue are you having with yours?
This is me in a random race online with mine. th-cam.com/video/w3UXwgqIBGE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HPtIruPBK1jncPAd
@@prtcountersteer I can't exactly tell what issue but at least it drives better than before. I'm gonna max them out in a little bit.
@@prtcountersteer Ok I maxed the diff things out. I think it drives better now.
Will these adjustments work for controllers?
Yes. It's just the increments to go by and what to look out for. It works for both wheel and controller.
I am on the controller as well, though! 😁
You should realize how much of a help this guide is, man. Thank you.
Thanks! Hope it helps! Let me know how it goes and happy tuning!
Running FF cars, listening to this... toe out both front and rear really helped with white heavy braking I'd over steer and not be able to recover.. but it handles way better with toe out front and back. Im at .25f and .15r
Yes, it definitely helps for cars that understeer! Takes some getting use to, but that's a good setting you found! Happy it helped!
Ok,not relevant to this vid,but how on earth do you do IB 6 test,cause im haveing a very hard time,its like driveing through jello on ice…
Use traction control.
Finally took time to set one up following all your tuning shorts. Was working on Aero and went to duplicate and accidentally hit delete 😡. Round 2 begins now lol
Aw mannn, I've done that! After you get use to knowing what to look for, you can fly through the settings and honestly, each time you re-do it, you find something better! Let me know how it turns out!
@@prtcountersteer ya I'm getting there lol. would think i could drive trial mountain blindfolded by now lol
@@prtcountersteer so this is my 1st time actually running through ALL of your videos to find a tune (well 2nd if u count last night's F*** up.....) Have u paid attention to how far off your tunes end up compared to default? I mean obviously top speed and final are prolly WAY different. But as far as everything else?
@@joshwiebensohn406 Haha, it's a good test track for starting a tune.
@@joshwiebensohn406 Yes, mine are WAY different then the default tune. You are tuning for your driving style, so everyone's tune will be different.
How do you make the car brake better always over braking
There is a lot of reasons for this.
- Ride Height Could be too low and tires are binding on front fenders, making you go straight.
- Dampeners on front are too high, try making them 5 less than the rear.
- Natural Frequency is too high in the front, lower by 20.
- Sometimes putting brake balance 1 to the rear helps.
- Too much rear downforce. Try lowering by increments of 10.