Turbo removal, rebuild plus wicked wheel install, banks big head waste gate actuator install, and BD performance kit for turning ebpv into exhaust brake.
FINALLY......Thanks for posting this video. Not because i needed it myself, but because this video needed to be done with a mechanic worth watching. So many videos on youtube totally stink. I applaude your time and video! From one mechanic to another....Thanks!
I always get a kick out of watching you heavy duty guys. 1/2 drive for everything !!! I was shocked to see you pull out the 1/4 ratchet !! You do great work. Glad I found your channel. You explain things very well :)
grab a set of those universal joint sockets. The last batch I got had to grind a bit out to get full movement but they make the collector flange nuts easy peezy man
Always nice to see another persons video to get those little extra hints. I'm in the middle of a turbo rebuild on my 2001 7.3, going to skip the banks waste gate actuator for now as I have to get my truck running by tomorrow, but maybe at a later date.
I just did my turbo pedestal o rings and my knees , back ,knuckles and knees are completely shot. But it was worth it on my 2000 f350 7.3. And by the way AWESOME VIDEO.....
great vedeo you explained very good!! but looks like you rebuilding turbo's everyday!! you are good mate but I think I need rebuilding my turbo on my excursion to but looks like much work!! cheers from Norway keep in touch keep making a great vedeos!!
I put that SAME "exhaust brake" kit in my F-250 (1999 7.3) and every now and then, when I activate the brake, the "Check Engine" light will come on... not every time. Nothing else is affected by it, other than me seeing "yellow"... I clear it using the Edge programmer - at my convenience. Nice job.
hello-I looked 21:35 and it looks like a standard gap seal ring but I had to buy a special stepped gap seal that has no gap cause it over laps each side--I got mine on ebay for less than $15 but are kind of hard to find-no more oil leak into turbine housing-thank you for your video-very informative and will refer back to it from time to time when I need help on my turbo-take care
I have never used and step seals on these , usually if they leak with the standard seal after a fresh rebiuld, it usually has excessive crankcase pressure forcing oil up the drain tube and out the turbine seal or impeller seal, or that the turbine housing seal ride bore is worn enough to allow the gap to not completely close causing it to leak, but that is interesting to know they have those because I was not aware. Thanks.
I've got mine apart and I'm about to put things together - for the compressor housing o ring - did you just reuse your old one? Should I use a touch of rtv on it? Also - the black metal cap on the exhaust side, that you described as having a lot of carbon behind it, it came off on mine. Is it just a friction fit? Pop the cap back in place after cleaning but before reassembling? Thanks again for a great video!
I've learned some new terminology from this video i'll never forget lol 'wicked wheel'. I've spent hours watching your vids, you're doing what i want to be doing
Dear Mr. Grease, Good show. "Just lay it on the positive post", 😊 nice call, ain't that the way it goes. Sure wish You were out here near the Chicago area. Oh well, My Guy sure enjoys Your videos and "antics", real life happenings. Thank You. Sincerely, Kathleen & Me.
Great disassemble video. Any way to clean the waste gate valve without removing the turbo? I've see the use of turbo cleaner sprays but think they might also clean out the bearings since it is injected in the 'cold' side'?
Sun Lite No I don't think there is anyway around it, I have never used any of those sprays for fear of the same things you mentioned. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing this with us. After watching I feel that I could rebuild my turbo if need be. I just bought a 1994 F-350 Crew Cab Dully and it has the 7.3 IDI with turbo. The engine seems to running ok but I'm starting to hear a sound that's kinda spooking me. I want to say that it's low pitched sound, almost like a a bearing in a fan going out. Sorry but that's the only way I can describe it. The sound seems to be close to firewall and when I let off the throttle it goes away. I'm wondering if by chance could this the bearing or bearings in the turbo failing? Also I am seeing what I think is transmission fluid leaking, it leaks when the engine is running. It's Red in color and I'm not sure of just where it's leaking from. Any info or advice that you can give would be much appreciated. Thumbs UP on your videos and you have a new subscriber to your channel.
Putting mine back together, but somethings is a miss. Turbine shaft doesn’t turn free once I start tightening things down. Can’t tighten down the back plate. Before the bolts are anywhere near tight, the shaft is completely locked up. Tried putting just the impeller on, without the back plate or the thrust plate, as soon as the impeller starts to tighten up, the shaft freezes as well.
Nice video on how to do a rebuild on one of those. What difference does the wicked wheel make? Also, I've heard that you need to be careful on using the exhaust back pressure valve as a brake because it can make the valves float if there's enough rpms, ever heard of that happening before?
+Corey Regier The wicked wheel gives it a little more boost, and spools a little faster. I can assure you that the exhaust back pressure control valve won't float the valves, if that was the case the aftermarket pac brakes would do the same thing because they work off the same principle. Anyway, thanks for watching.
I say delete that put a cover get you a real deal piece and be done. those damn gates leaked from the factory when you punch it it opens a bit. Fact is if you are developing more then 50psi above ambient yer ballin and should have some other bad ass parts to go with it. Let em eat
I did the whole works including delete on pedestal, wicked wheel, exhaust side delete, other than whistle there was no noticeable gain, the loss was in my wallet.
the switch defuels the motor but Im not sure how that kit would lock the torque converter. Pointless without that. Good video. Love your channel. fyi I know this is a manual just curious if the auto would be a different kit
What kind of heads are on the bolts that hold the outer housings on. Seems like yours came off real easy. I am having a big problem getting mine off. May have to use a torch, but first I need the correct socket. Is it a special 12 point torx socket, a standard 12 point point socket, or a metric 12 point socket?
Do you know if the rubber intake hose that comes off the turbo compressor housing inlet (09:50 in the video) is the same on the old body style trucks as it is the 99-03 trucks? Edit: Can't figure out how to post a response. I can confirm the vacuum line port is present on the old body style. Many thanks.
Socks with Sandals I know the hose diameter , mounting and length are the same, but I can't remember if the old body style had the green vacuum line in it.
May be too late, but get yourself a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid 50/50 mix. Half acetone, half transmissiion fluid. Let it soak on those bolts and I can almost promise you'll get them off if you already haven't. You can use this mixture on virtually any application with a seized nut, bolt, screw, etc. Good luck!
Penetrating oil called "Maltby". 50+ years using it. You'll never use anything else after that! It is hard to find, and you may have to order a case. Great for gifting your restoration friends and others.
Hey there, was watching this video because I'm bout to rebuild my 7.3 L turbo and was wondering if the rebuild kit will help with my turbo wheel moving in and out when I remove my intake off I can reach down into the turbo and Pull the wheel in and out. I am also only building about 10 pounds of boost
what happened to your BPV rod and clip connected to your pedestal? I did not see you take it apart! A novice would be cussing someone out if he tried to remove the turbo without sliding the clip back and popping the rod down to separate the turbo completely from the pedestal.
terry wilkins No exaggeration,I love that impact. I mostly do field service work in agriculture, and it's nice not having to listen to air compressor run in the service truck and not dragging an air hose around everywhere.
Colin Scott Well, I was stationed there at Bangor sub base back in late 90's and I don't recall any that I can remember. Been to long ago. That is beautiful country up there.
I installed this kit and even followed your video while doing it and now can't build any boost. I've taken everything apart and put it back together a couple of times to ensure fitment of hoses and all is instead correct. 🤔🤔
Ok, I am working with almost the identical setup you were working on. My tuner isn't reading any turbo pressure either. Guess it all comes back apart again in the morning.
I have a 2000 f 350 diesel 7.3. It has gone through 3 turbos can anyone advise me on what might be wrong, or what I need to look for. Getting very costly..HELP!!!!
Have you checked you up pipes for leaks? Mine had leaks from the old donut gaskets being worn out. It was letting trash go straight into my turbo. Wrecked both my wheels.
What part of the turbo keeps failing? One thing I have heard of is making sure to let the engine idle for a while after pushing it hard (highway speed), so the turbo has time to spin down. The reason being that the turbo can spin for a long time after the engine is off. The turbo’s oil supply comes from the main engine oil pump. Once engine is off and oil pressure goes down the turbo will not have much oil going to the bearings. That is the theory.
www.riffraffdiesel.com/gtp38-360-bearing-rebuild-kit-99-03/ comes with the housing Oring and RiffRaff shows you all the torque specs needed for each bolt along with detailed pictured rebuild instructions incase your still wanting those torque specs. Great Video
you dont need to spend 200 on the exshaust brake shit from bd all you need is a 3 way toggle switch and some wire i have had mine hooked up for 15 years now
Not true at all. part of allowing the action of the turbo grab the last bit of torque on the compressor wheel is for just that. Moreover any Billet wheel is cut to such detail that the wheel is nearly as balanced as can be. With Ball Bearings and /or extreme RPMS above diesel engines range. I have done many just like he is doin without fail. Truth is the Powerstroke really does act like a real Air Compressor the forces that are driving them are more heat then speed of the exhaust when redline is at 3800rpm!
My understanding is a turbo should be balanced on a vsr balancer. If not it's a hit or miss if you get 20,000 miles out of it. I thought of rebuilding mine but the balancing isn't a thing I can find locally. Instead I've seen chra assemblies that seem better than buying a new 100% built turbo
FINALLY......Thanks for posting this video. Not because i needed it myself, but because this video needed to be done with a mechanic worth watching. So many videos on youtube totally stink. I applaude your time and video!
From one mechanic to another....Thanks!
+Scotty McMasters Thanks for the compliment and for watching.
I always get a kick out of watching you heavy duty guys. 1/2 drive for everything !!! I was shocked to see you pull out the 1/4 ratchet !! You do great work. Glad I found your channel. You explain things very well :)
That back exhaust clamp is the hardest took hours trying to get it off!
grab a set of those universal joint sockets. The last batch I got had to grind a bit out to get full movement but they make the collector flange nuts easy peezy man
Just finished resealing a 01F250 turbo and pedestal, looking for info on procedure, found your channel, great info, keep up the good work
Always nice to see another persons video to get those little extra hints. I'm in the middle of a turbo rebuild on my 2001 7.3, going to skip the banks waste gate actuator for now as I have to get my truck running by tomorrow, but maybe at a later date.
Thanks for watching.
I just did my turbo pedestal o rings and my knees , back ,knuckles and knees are completely shot. But it was worth it on my 2000 f350 7.3. And by the way AWESOME VIDEO.....
great vedeo you explained very good!! but looks like you rebuilding turbo's everyday!! you are good mate but I think I need rebuilding my turbo on my excursion to but looks like much work!! cheers from Norway keep in touch keep making a great vedeos!!
i have no need for any of this information but greatly enjoyed the video
Great video man thanks for the info! 7.3l
I put that SAME "exhaust brake" kit in my F-250 (1999 7.3) and every now and then, when I activate the brake, the "Check Engine" light will come on... not every time. Nothing else is affected by it, other than me seeing "yellow"... I clear it using the Edge programmer - at my convenience. Nice job.
5/16 works on your hose clamps too!
hello-I looked 21:35 and it looks like a standard gap seal ring but I had to buy a special stepped gap seal that has no gap cause it over laps each side--I got mine on ebay for less than $15 but are kind of hard to find-no more oil leak into turbine housing-thank you for your video-very informative and will refer back to it from time to time when I need help on my turbo-take care
I have never used and step seals on these , usually if they leak with the standard seal after a fresh rebiuld, it usually has excessive crankcase pressure forcing oil up the drain tube and out the turbine seal or impeller seal, or that the turbine housing seal ride bore is worn enough to allow the gap to not completely close causing it to leak, but that is interesting to know they have those because I was not aware. Thanks.
I've got mine apart and I'm about to put things together - for the compressor housing o ring - did you just reuse your old one? Should I use a touch of rtv on it? Also - the black metal cap on the exhaust side, that you described as having a lot of carbon behind it, it came off on mine. Is it just a friction fit? Pop the cap back in place after cleaning but before reassembling? Thanks again for a great video!
Good job Warren.
Thank you
I've learned some new terminology from this video i'll never forget lol 'wicked wheel'. I've spent hours watching your vids, you're doing what i want to be doing
Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Dear Mr. Grease, Good show. "Just
lay it on the positive post", 😊 nice
call, ain't that the way it goes. Sure
wish You were out here near the
Chicago area. Oh well, My Guy sure
enjoys Your videos and "antics",
real life happenings. Thank You.
Sincerely, Kathleen & Me.
Kathleen NAWALT Yeah I'M glad somebody wants to watch this , my kids sure don't, they are like a blister , they show up when the work is all done.
Pro tip, an 8mm on an extension is a hell of a lot easier to use than a flat head...😦
vert helpful video, would it be okay to sandblast the turbo housing to get rid of the carbon build-up?
In the military we called em Jesus clips because every time you took it off it was night time and you'd hear the mechanic say
God D%/*m\t.
You know what you are doing.thank four the vid.
Douglass Wilkin Hey, thanks for watching.
Great disassemble video. Any way to clean the waste gate valve without removing the turbo? I've see the use of turbo cleaner sprays but think they might also clean out the bearings since it is injected in the 'cold' side'?
Sun Lite No I don't think there is anyway around it, I have never used any of those sprays for fear of the same things you mentioned. Thanks for watching.
Aren't you supposed to preload the waste gate actuator like 6 turns, so it stays closed and you can build boost?
Hi sulfur diesel makes the engine run a lot better.
Thanks for sharing this with us. After watching I feel that I could rebuild my turbo if need be. I just bought a 1994 F-350 Crew Cab Dully and it has the 7.3 IDI with turbo. The engine seems to running ok but I'm starting to hear a sound that's kinda spooking me. I want to say that it's low pitched sound, almost like a a bearing in a fan going out. Sorry but that's the only way I can describe it. The sound seems to be close to firewall and when I let off the throttle it goes away. I'm wondering if by chance could this the bearing or bearings in the turbo failing? Also I am seeing what I think is transmission fluid leaking, it leaks when the engine is running. It's Red in color and I'm not sure of just where it's leaking from. Any info or advice that you can give would be much appreciated. Thumbs UP on your videos and you have a new subscriber to your channel.
Putting mine back together, but somethings is a miss. Turbine shaft doesn’t turn free once I start tightening things down. Can’t tighten down the back plate. Before the bolts are anywhere near tight, the shaft is completely locked up. Tried putting just the impeller on, without the back plate or the thrust plate, as soon as the impeller starts to tighten up, the shaft freezes as well.
great vid thank you
Nice video on how to do a rebuild on one of those. What difference does the wicked wheel make? Also, I've heard that you need to be careful on using the exhaust back pressure valve as a brake because it can make the valves float if there's enough rpms, ever heard of that happening before?
+Corey Regier The wicked wheel gives it a little more boost, and spools a little faster. I can assure you that the exhaust back pressure control valve won't float the valves, if that was the case the aftermarket pac brakes would do the same thing because they work off the same principle. Anyway, thanks for watching.
Oh alright, thanks for the quick reply!
Some wastegate manufacturers recommend a mm or two of preload on the rod (half the eyelet or so) to prevent wastegate leakage
I say delete that put a cover get you a real deal piece and be done. those damn gates leaked from the factory when you punch it it opens a bit. Fact is if you are developing more then 50psi above ambient yer ballin and should have some other bad ass parts to go with it. Let em eat
I bought my brothers 1999 7.3 f350 4x4 a year ago (he bought it new in99) it has like 65,000 milesand would love to add this kit to it
I did the whole works including delete on pedestal, wicked wheel, exhaust side delete, other than whistle there was no noticeable gain, the loss was in my wallet.
What’s a good rebuild kit
the switch defuels the motor but Im not sure how that kit would lock the torque converter. Pointless without that. Good video. Love your channel.
fyi I know this is a manual just curious if the auto would be a different kit
+Meryah Barstow Yes I believe the auto kit is different part # , thanks for watching.
Great video, you stated your in the NW, so am I:) what state r u in?
If he hasn’t moved, he is in northern Cali along the 5
What kind of heads are on the bolts that hold the outer housings on. Seems like yours came off real easy. I am having a big problem getting mine off. May have to use a torch, but first I need the correct socket. Is it a special 12 point torx socket, a standard 12 point point socket, or a metric 12 point socket?
I got mine all apart. No 12 pt 8mm socket, but a 8mm box end works. The two bolts that are down those holes are accessible from the out side.
Do you know if the rubber intake hose that comes off the turbo compressor housing inlet (09:50 in the video) is the same on the old body style trucks as it is the 99-03 trucks?
Edit: Can't figure out how to post a response. I can confirm the vacuum line port is present on the old body style. Many thanks.
Socks with Sandals I know the hose diameter , mounting and length are the same, but I can't remember if the old body style had the green vacuum line in it.
Socks with Sandals No problem, thanks for watching.
Great video. The 4 bolts on my turbine housing are seized and won’t break loose. Any recommendations to get them off??
May be too late, but get yourself a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid 50/50 mix. Half acetone, half transmissiion fluid. Let it soak on those bolts and I can almost promise you'll get them off if you already haven't. You can use this mixture on virtually any application with a seized nut, bolt, screw, etc. Good luck!
Penetrating oil called "Maltby". 50+ years using it. You'll never use anything else after that! It is hard to find, and you may have to order a case. Great for gifting your restoration friends and others.
I'm here for the comments from the keyboard commandos 🤣
Best brake was the jake brake on a big cam III cummins.
Dieselsite mechanical waste gate controller is the new standard.
Hey there, was watching this video because I'm bout to rebuild my 7.3 L turbo and was wondering if the rebuild kit will help with my turbo wheel moving in and out when I remove my intake off I can reach down into the turbo and Pull the wheel in and out. I am also only building about 10 pounds of boost
Rusty Werst Yeah your thrust bearings are bad, if it is real bad and worn into the center cartridge you might have to replace the center section.
Rusty Werst yes sir
grease monkey101 awesome, the kit comes with new thrust bearings. Appreciate your video!
Привет! Hi haw many miles you get on this new turbo wheel??? Over 20.000 miles?
Try 500,000
what happened to your BPV rod and clip connected to your pedestal? I did not see you take it apart! A novice would be cussing someone out if he tried to remove the turbo without sliding the clip back and popping the rod down to separate the turbo completely from the pedestal.
Where you located
How do you like your Milwaukee impact ? Also Interesting videos.
terry wilkins No exaggeration,I love that impact. I mostly do field service work in agriculture, and it's nice not having to listen to air compressor run in the service truck and not dragging an air hose around everywhere.
I'm in the pnw as well and I'm about to rebuild. Do you have your own shop?
Colin Scott Yes I have been own my own for only four years now, but so far so good.
grease monkey101 where are you located?
Colin Scott Klamath falls Oregon. You?
grease monkey101 Whidbey island, know any good shops up here?
Colin Scott Well, I was stationed there at Bangor sub base back in late 90's and I don't recall any that I can remember. Been to long ago. That is beautiful country up there.
Wonder how many people sold their newer 6.0/6.4, and went back to the 7.3
Me. haha
I have had three, easy to work on, beasts, collectable I think!
👍👍🤣🤣🤣
Great vid, thanks!
ScottyP5947 No problem, thanks for watching.
How long do these turbo last before needing rebuilt or replaced?
Definitely depends on maintenance/abuse. My truck is well taken care of and my first turbo lasted 285k miles before having any issues.
I'm at 265,000 and turbo seals started leaking
How did you get the impeller off?
he unbolted it with a 16 mm socket most likely using a impact
👍👍
Wonderful video. I was curious as to how well the exhaust brake worked after installation, was thinking of doing the same to my 7.3.
After installation of everything, did you have any turbo issues?
I installed this kit and even followed your video while doing it and now can't build any boost. I've taken everything apart and put it back together a couple of times to ensure fitment of hoses and all is instead correct. 🤔🤔
No
Ok, I am working with almost the identical setup you were working on. My tuner isn't reading any turbo pressure either. Guess it all comes back apart again in the morning.
You drove it , or just started it and tried it in the shop.
I have a 2000 f 350 diesel 7.3. It has gone through 3 turbos can anyone advise me on what might be wrong, or what I need to look for. Getting very costly..HELP!!!!
Have you checked you up pipes for leaks? Mine had leaks from the old donut gaskets being worn out. It was letting trash go straight into my turbo. Wrecked both my wheels.
@@ChaRambo what are the up pipes?
What part of the turbo keeps failing? One thing I have heard of is making sure to let the engine idle for a while after pushing it hard (highway speed), so the turbo has time to spin down. The reason being that the turbo can spin for a long time after the engine is off. The turbo’s oil supply comes from the main engine oil pump. Once engine is off and oil pressure goes down the turbo will not have much oil going to the bearings. That is the theory.
With quick shut-down, oil pressure stops. Oil remaining in the turbo turns to coke/petcoke/carbon, and the end is near! Google petcoke for more
You need a nice laser pointer to show us what you mean when you say - its just down there
what about the stepped turbine seal?--that is what I had to do to mine to get it to quit leaking and burning oil
hemi4sp 21:14 on the video
www.riffraffdiesel.com/gtp38-360-bearing-rebuild-kit-99-03/ comes with the housing Oring and RiffRaff shows you all the torque specs needed for each bolt along with detailed pictured rebuild instructions incase your still wanting those torque specs. Great Video
No video instruction on the hardest part of the removal
The up pipe disconnect
How did you break the turbine free
Since the exhaust is round?
Did to need to worm up
#Roger
$500 to $800 for the kit it should come with every thing even new bolts for the charge air side
15 to17 ft pounds on all the 12 point bolts
you dont need to spend 200 on the exshaust brake shit from bd all you need is a 3 way toggle switch and some wire i have had mine hooked up for 15 years now
same hereaplus 5 bucks
Any video on how to put this ok n my truck
You absolutely must have the turbo balanced after performing this wheel replacement or you risk destroying the turbo.
Not true at all. part of allowing the action of the turbo grab the last bit of torque on the compressor wheel is for just that. Moreover any Billet wheel is cut to such detail that the wheel is nearly as balanced as can be. With Ball Bearings and /or extreme RPMS above diesel engines range. I have done many just like he is doin without fail. Truth is the Powerstroke really does act like a real Air Compressor the forces that are driving them are more heat then speed of the exhaust when redline is at 3800rpm!
dude paid $65 for garret kit on shmebay
Perhaps you might get a tripod and a little lighting system going........
My understanding is a turbo should be balanced on a vsr balancer. If not it's a hit or miss if you get 20,000 miles out of it. I thought of rebuilding mine but the balancing isn't a thing I can find locally. Instead I've seen chra assemblies that seem better than buying a new 100% built turbo
I never balanced mine and i have 305,000 miles with no issues...
How does the balancing work? If the impeller and turbo wheels are balanced why would balancing be needed?
Its not a (7.3)... its a (7.🌲) .😏
If your hands don't bleed then your not working hard enough. Lol