When it comes time for the new track plan - I would strongly consider adding track feeder drops to all pieces of track. It will make the new RR much more reliable electrically for the future. (Which also needs a dedicated track Bus) Also I would plan ahead where you plan to have blocks, power districts, reversing loops, etc and either put in plastic insulating joiners - and leaves physical gaps (That can be filled with styrene later). Saves you headaches and stress on the track going back in a cutting gaps. Good luck with the new Railroad.
A Home Depot hint: try to find a damaged piece of foam. You can get it at a reduced price and you’re going to cut it up anyway. I got the lumber lad to cut it for me so it fit in the suv however that’s not an issue for you Ram guys lol.
As soon as it starts to warm up here in TN, I've got to demolish what I have attached to my bench stored out in my barn (storage shed). I still have track on top and wiring underneath and have to tear all that back down to just the bench (legs have been removed). I have a picnic table just outside the door of the building which I can use for demolition. Good luck with your layout. Cheers from eastern TN
Having started with a "clean" slate you might want to consider the parallax effect on your layout rebuild. Basically you add features such as view blocks, avoid lines running parallel to your layout front, fading the backdrop (adding progressively more sky color to painted hills etc.). Dave, over at Thunder Mesa just did a YT video on this. I would have a look. You don't have to be an artist to paint convincing backgrounds. A background doesn't need to have detail, its only an impression of the World beyond the layout.
The destruction was oddly satisfying to watch in some weird vicarious way. Looking forward to seeing progress on the new version of the layout. I do enjoy your attitude to modelling. Thanks for these vids.
I share your pain whenever it came to tearing down and rebuilding my layout over time. But....There is nothing more inspiring than a blank canvas. Just make sure the gears spinning in your head are well lubricated. And if you get frustrated, walk away for a few minutes and take a deep breath before you resume. Best of luck!
We all know Dave will not slow down and take a deep breath and walk away.. he will belt it all out and be ready for the live on Sunday... Come on we all know that ..
@timsbitsnpieces Dave has the luxury of time to rebuild according to his plan. It's the wiring that'll be a pain in the arse. I just hope he didn't scratch up the faux wood floor with the blade. Otherwise, there'll be hell to pay. LoL
Hi Dave I have just caught up with your layout build, now you are starting a rebuild here we go again. Wishing you and Ailsa all the best. Regards Tom 🏴
Sorry to see the old layout go, but looking forward to watching the construction of the new improved layout. Thanks for sharing. and good luck with the new layout.
I did a video a couple of days ago on making inexpensive backdrops for the Train layout you may find useful. It costs 90% than store offerrings. Now i'm watching all your old videos. Your accent reminds me of my Grandmothers' accent all the way from Glasgow. None of my boyhood friends cound understand her thick accent.
Will you be modeling a Lumber Mill with pond on one of your end loops? Since you live in Canada it might be worth including a bit of the logging industry.
Yes, I understand, but I also want to leave some room for scenery between the outer rail and the wall. I managed to squeeze some rocks in on the current layout, but it was way too close for comfort, and looked a bit unrealistic. Lets get the base structure down and we can have another look.
@ScottRails I went through your pain many years ago. My lessons learned: 1. Throw away any brass track. NOW not tomorrow, right now! 2. Only use sectional track on pain of death. Use flex track for all connections between switches and cross-overs... death to sectional track! Speaking of switches- only use less than No. 6 switches in small industries or hidden track. Set track and No. 4 switches are too toy-like! 3. Draw out the biggest and gentlest curves you can: then figure out the baseboard to fit under it... you are working backwards right now! 4. Make a list of features, industries and yards then design the track to fit that. Again, you are working backwards! 5. Make your base in modular sections so future rearrangements are easier. 6. Make your baseboards taller... that way you can have extensions and peninsulas over you computer desk, etc. Also, in real life we experience trains from ground level, not as birds poop.. I mean, look down on them. It makes a complete difference to your point of view and the enjoyment you will get out of the layout. 7. Plan your layout with photography and videography in mind. A couple of parallel track sections to have trains going east and west. A space to fit the cameras for dramatic shots of trains and your favourite backdrop and BIG curves so your engines and cars don't look toy-like with enormous overhangs...🤮 8. There is no 8! Get cracking! Cheers!😁🫡👍 Mike
Yes, I pretty much destroyed the brass track when I "carefully" removed it. I was careful with the nickel atlas switches, even though I probably won't use them. I know you think I'm doing things backwards, but my priority is ease of movement. I have mild claustrophobia, so will not enjoy the layout if I have to constantly worry about bumping into things every time I turn around. So, I'll get the base structure down, then make the track fit.
Bare feet and track nails ? Ouch ! Maybe think about green foam. I think it works better. I started with white foam, very messy and it melts with most spray paints. Yea run those 4 wheelers on the inside. Better get it done. I have 3 locos' coming your way. I don't like glueing down track. It would have to be perfect, and I am far from perfect. I don't use ballast either. I spray paint my cork with primer and then use Rust oleum Stone paint. I have used it for over 15 years and the cork does not dry out any more than being unpainted. An old model railroader taught me that. Plus no mess and no grit in your switch points. Take your time and have fun with it.
Hi Dave, I know you have limited space, but try not to have any 18" curves. Set a goal of minimum of 20". Flex track is your friend for doing this. Have fun.
Good stuff Dave ! I'm curious as to the ballpark size of the layout, as I am in the middle of sorting out the plans for my own layout. I'm looking forward to both of our builds.I might post a couple of possible plans I'm considering for my own layout on your Facebook page so I can get some constructive criticism, just for luck. Keep on keeping on and I'll see you in the next video. PS I'd be tempted to knock that closet down and tell my wife if was just a slip of the sledge hammer, LOL. She's an absolute saint and has forgiven me so many times it's not funny. Don;t do this, I'd hate to get you into hot water, BTW...
My dimensions are 13 feet by 10, with an oval operating space in the middle. I would have more room if I moved the desk out, but I really want to contain this project to just one room. I don't really have a track plan, other than the two outer loops. I just want to get the base structure down and then I can plan.
@@ScottRails Good to know my eyes are still "calibrated" because that is what I guessed. That's the maximum size for my layout as well except it is bounded on three sides to windows leading to the "outside and almost completely surrounded by 7 foot tall windows. Decisions, decisions, LOL See you later !
Sorry to see it go but you will have a much better layout when this is done and maybe you can make a new video of the train going around the new curves and not hanging wildly over the rails. Have you had enough fun with the inclines that they won’t reappear on the new layout? This is going to be a great improvement and I look forward to your updates.
How exciting is this. looking forward to watching the build and your ideas coming to life. Have you thought about using a swing bridge instead of a lift bridge? I built one on my layout and it works pretty well. at 3 foot wide by 2 foot deep. gives me space to add a water scene with a bridge over the swing out.
I get that. I considered using a lift bridge but opted for the swing bridge so I could blend in the scenery from the bench on each side to look more seamless. Also thinking I could make it more immersive once closed by running the back drop through as well.
The outer track loops don't need to be at the edges of the wall. I can make scenic areas to fit beyond the track, but I can make them in blocks that can just fit in place, so I don't need to make them ON the actual layout. Kind of like dioramas that slot in place. I'm thinking of 24 and 26 inch radius for the outer loops, and 18 inch for the inner dogbone loop, for smaller locos.
You're doing it again Dave , slow down . Make your curves as large as you can , don't.try and jam in as much track as you can if you are going to end up with the same ridiculous radius curves as you had before which that return loop will definitely have . Narrow the opening some more and don't go sideways through it , that will allow you to increase the radius on the return loop if you really want it . Measure the width of the room , take away the minimum diameter that you would like on that return loop plus make some allowance for clearance and do you still have room to pass between ? Lots to think about before you lay one section of track . A thought to make you smile , in finescale Ogauge the minimum radius we usually try for is 6ft or 1800mm .
Shouldn't be doing construction work in bare feet. Must have OSHA certified steel toe footwear. might also need a hard hat for any under the layout construction.
hmmmmm to comment or not to comment that is the question....... Firstly, I do not see the sense of buying a whole lot of foam to cover up what you have there... and the glue that goes with it when all you need to do is cut out the sections where you need or want a river etc.. for your bridges. yeah, you need some new foam for the new part you are building. Secondly, I do not see why you are going back to 18" curves for the "smaller engines" why not make all curves 22" then ALL trains can use ALL parts of the track regardless!.. Thirdly, make all parts accessible when you bend over with your arm outstretched to reach the furthest part, so nothing is more than 3ft wide approx, so you can get at it for derailments and scenery repairs etc.. as derailments will happen no matter what as we all know. Do not bring tracks inwards, try to keep them out as far as possible to the outer edges of your layout so that you can get that better radius needed for smoother running of your trains. This does 2 things.. it makes better radiuses and also gives you more space on the inside for sidings and areas to set up trains and also store them on display instead of packing them up all the time, yes the more trains you have the more you will switch them about but for lives etc you can leave them on display etc... I look forward to the fast forwarded videos of your slow and calculated decisions on how to make your railway better and more interesting instead of just circles and ovals.... your good friend Tim.
More foam for more height. I don't want to cut into my baseboards. Only potentially using 18" where the track loops back inside the layout. Any wider would be coming in to the walk space on the inside of the layout. I still need to have room for working on my big white table (train repairs, scenic stuff etc). I don't have a separate room for doing all that stuff. In a perfect world, I would have a massive room, with a 2 foot shelf layout around the whole room, but I need to make compromises with the space I have. So over-reaching is always going to be an issue. And yes, I need to have the inner dog-bone loop or I lose support from my wife. I'm still not sold on the new small incline idea. Even if it's just an inch, do I really need the headache of possible un-coupling? Again, wife wants the incline, but I might need to put my foot down on that one. I took today off from the build, needed some time to consider my options.
As you know I am only making suggestions to help... at the end of the day it's your layout and you will do it how you want... lol with the wife's input of course lol...
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
Uh Oh "I'm not going to rush it. I'm just going to do it very quickly." Bad Dave! No very quickly, take your time Mr!
with the lift bridge i found if the hinge is froward of the center gap you don't have to rise it like in my old video
I've been watching a lot of lift bridge videos. I have a plan.
When it comes time for the new track plan - I would strongly consider adding track feeder drops to all pieces of track. It will make the new RR much more reliable electrically for the future. (Which also needs a dedicated track Bus) Also I would plan ahead where you plan to have blocks, power districts, reversing loops, etc and either put in plastic insulating joiners - and leaves physical gaps (That can be filled with styrene later). Saves you headaches and stress on the track going back in a cutting gaps. Good luck with the new Railroad.
Looking forward to the new layout ,instead of a lift out or flap you could learn to limbo mate 😂hehe
No joking all the best
Mark 😊😊
I could only do half a limbo, lol. The getting down part.
@@ScottRailswelcome to my world bud 😂😂
A Home Depot hint: try to find a damaged piece of foam. You can get it at a reduced price and you’re going to cut it up anyway. I got the lumber lad to cut it for me so it fit in the suv however that’s not an issue for you Ram guys lol.
Yes, I do appreciate having the truck, even if I only ever use it for train related activities, hahaha
As soon as it starts to warm up here in TN, I've got to demolish what I have attached to my bench stored out in my barn (storage shed). I still have track on top and wiring underneath and have to tear all that back down to just the bench (legs have been removed). I have a picnic table just outside the door of the building which I can use for demolition. Good luck with your layout. Cheers from eastern TN
Ok for the lift bridge check on the DCC guy he got a good one
OUT STANDING DAVE. Flex track on the curves can make what whatever radius you need
Having started with a "clean" slate you might want to consider the parallax effect on your layout rebuild. Basically you add features such as view blocks, avoid lines running parallel to your layout front, fading the backdrop (adding progressively more sky color to painted hills etc.). Dave, over at Thunder Mesa just did a YT video on this. I would have a look. You don't have to be an artist to paint convincing backgrounds. A background doesn't need to have detail, its only an impression of the World beyond the layout.
I just restarted too! Its always piece of mind
No matter what good comes after, never a fun sight. lol Best wishes!
Modelling with power tools - I love it! Great sound track too!
Good luck on the changes @scottrails
All gone , now the fun begins, good luck Dave
The destruction was oddly satisfying to watch in some weird vicarious way. Looking forward to seeing progress on the new version of the layout. I do enjoy your attitude to modelling. Thanks for these vids.
Exciting times!
Thanks
Thank you very much Peter, you are a saint.
I share your pain whenever it came to tearing down and rebuilding my layout over time. But....There is nothing more inspiring than a blank canvas. Just make sure the gears spinning in your head are well lubricated. And if you get frustrated, walk away for a few minutes and take a deep breath before you resume. Best of luck!
We all know Dave will not slow down and take a deep breath and walk away.. he will belt it all out and be ready for the live on Sunday... Come on we all know that ..
@timsbitsnpieces Dave has the luxury of time to rebuild according to his plan. It's the wiring that'll be a pain in the arse. I just hope he didn't scratch up the faux wood floor with the blade. Otherwise, there'll be hell to pay. LoL
The Trains are almost running 😉
Good planning! Greetings from Berlin, Germany
Good plans Dave, you're off to a flying start, look forward to seeing it develop. All the best. Brian
Hi Dave I have just caught up with your layout build, now you are starting a rebuild here we go again. Wishing you and Ailsa all the best. Regards Tom 🏴
That’s What I’m Talking About!🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘.
Sorry to see the old layout go, but looking forward to watching the construction of the new improved layout. Thanks for sharing. and good luck with the new layout.
I did a video a couple of days ago on making inexpensive backdrops for the Train layout you may find useful. It costs 90% than store offerrings. Now i'm watching all your old videos. Your accent reminds me of my Grandmothers' accent all the way from Glasgow. None of my boyhood friends cound understand her thick accent.
Will you be modeling a Lumber Mill with pond on one of your end loops? Since you live in Canada it might be worth including a bit of the logging industry.
I've not decided on that sort of thing yet. I'm trying to take this one step at a time.
Wish I could work as fast as that 😮😅
make outside curves 30"
That would be great, but I don't have space for that. It's all a compromise.
I hear you could try flex and keep tight to 0.5 inch from eadge either way i enjoy your videos
Yes, I understand, but I also want to leave some room for scenery between the outer rail and the wall.
I managed to squeeze some rocks in on the current layout, but it was way too close for comfort, and looked a bit unrealistic. Lets get the base structure down and we can have another look.
@ScottRails I went through your pain many years ago. My lessons learned:
1. Throw away any brass track. NOW not tomorrow, right now!
2. Only use sectional track on pain of death. Use flex track for all connections between switches and cross-overs... death to sectional track! Speaking of switches- only use less than No. 6 switches in small industries or hidden track. Set track and No. 4 switches are too toy-like!
3. Draw out the biggest and gentlest curves you can: then figure out the baseboard to fit under it... you are working backwards right now!
4. Make a list of features, industries and yards then design the track to fit that. Again, you are working backwards!
5. Make your base in modular sections so future rearrangements are easier.
6. Make your baseboards taller... that way you can have extensions and peninsulas over you computer desk, etc. Also, in real life we experience trains from ground level, not as birds poop.. I mean, look down on them. It makes a complete difference to your point of view and the enjoyment you will get out of the layout.
7. Plan your layout with photography and videography in mind. A couple of parallel track sections to have trains going east and west. A space to fit the cameras for dramatic shots of trains and your favourite backdrop and BIG curves so your engines and cars don't look toy-like with enormous overhangs...🤮
8. There is no 8! Get cracking!
Cheers!😁🫡👍 Mike
Yes, I pretty much destroyed the brass track when I "carefully" removed it. I was careful with the nickel atlas switches, even though I probably won't use them.
I know you think I'm doing things backwards, but my priority is ease of movement. I have mild claustrophobia, so will not enjoy the layout if I have to constantly worry about bumping into things every time I turn around.
So, I'll get the base structure down, then make the track fit.
Starting again with a nice "clean" slate
The demo was interesting, all that work gone😮
Bare feet and track nails ? Ouch ! Maybe think about green foam. I think it works better. I started with white foam, very messy and it melts with most spray paints. Yea run those 4 wheelers on the inside. Better get it done. I have 3 locos' coming your way. I don't like glueing down track. It would have to be perfect, and I am far from perfect. I don't use ballast either. I spray paint my cork with primer and then use Rust oleum Stone paint. I have used it for over 15 years and the cork does not dry out any more than being unpainted. An old model railroader taught me that. Plus no mess and no grit in your switch points. Take your time and have fun with it.
I'd rather have a nail in my foot than slipping on this laminate flooring in my socks. I hate wearing shoes when I'm indoors.
Gonna be epic 😊
Hi Dave,
I know you have limited space, but try not to have any 18" curves. Set a goal of minimum of 20". Flex track is your friend for doing this.
Have fun.
All the best with the new layout.
Good stuff Dave !
I'm curious as to the ballpark size of the layout, as I am in the middle of sorting out the plans for my own layout. I'm looking forward to both of our builds.I might post a couple of possible plans I'm considering for my own layout on your Facebook page so I can get some constructive criticism, just for luck.
Keep on keeping on and I'll see you in the next video.
PS I'd be tempted to knock that closet down and tell my wife if was just a slip of the sledge hammer, LOL. She's an absolute saint and has forgiven me so many times it's not funny.
Don;t do this, I'd hate to get you into hot water, BTW...
My dimensions are 13 feet by 10, with an oval operating space in the middle. I would have more room if I moved the desk out, but I really want to contain this project to just one room.
I don't really have a track plan, other than the two outer loops. I just want to get the base structure down and then I can plan.
@@ScottRails Good to know my eyes are still "calibrated" because that is what I guessed. That's the maximum size for my layout as well except it is bounded on three sides to windows leading to the "outside and almost completely surrounded by 7 foot tall windows.
Decisions, decisions, LOL
See you later !
I got tired just watching you. Good luck!
Understood it needed to be done, but still sad to see it go.
Sorry to see it go but you will have a much better layout when this is done and maybe you can make a new video of the train going around the new curves and not hanging wildly over the rails. Have you had enough fun with the inclines that they won’t reappear on the new layout? This is going to be a great improvement and I look forward to your updates.
Thanks Derek. Yes, I have decided not to have inclines. Too much grief.
How about a helix at both ends and max track space in 2 floors?
Best regards Mogens V. Denmark
Really don't have space for a helix, never mind two of them. Maybe on the next layout....in the next house.
How exciting is this. looking forward to watching the build and your ideas coming to life. Have you thought about using a swing bridge instead of a lift bridge? I built one on my layout and it works pretty well. at 3 foot wide by 2 foot deep. gives me space to add a water scene with a bridge over the swing out.
I looked into the swing bridge idea. I think for me, a lift bridge will work better, thanks.
I get that. I considered using a lift bridge but opted for the swing bridge so I could blend in the scenery from the bench on each side to look more seamless. Also thinking I could make it more immersive once closed by running the back drop through as well.
Hey sorry I apologize for some reason I called you Scott a few times because of Scott rails I hear your Dave okay Dave have fun ripping away...
Funny. I’m your good friend Tim, but I don’t remember saying that 😝
What If It Looks Like You don’t want to Install a Lift Bridge After All?
I definitely do.
Who Knows You might Change Your Mind.
You mentioned physical reach was a problem. Is the new plan keeping to relieve that issue? 4 axle locos need at least 18", 6 axles need at least 22"?
The outer track loops don't need to be at the edges of the wall. I can make scenic areas to fit beyond the track, but I can make them in blocks that can just fit in place, so I don't need to make them ON the actual layout. Kind of like dioramas that slot in place.
I'm thinking of 24 and 26 inch radius for the outer loops, and 18 inch for the inner dogbone loop, for smaller locos.
I know what your going thru, hope you will used only nickel silver track
Yes, I have it waiting in the next room.
It must be " fix it up Friday my display " . How's it going?
Hard part is done.
Leave Her Level this Time.
That's what I'm thinking.
It looks so wrong now dave put it back
👀👍✌️
You're doing it again Dave , slow down . Make your curves as large as you can , don't.try and jam in as much track as you can if you are going to end up with the same ridiculous radius curves as you had before which that return loop will definitely have . Narrow the opening some more and don't go sideways through it , that will allow you to increase the radius on the return loop if you really want it . Measure the width of the room , take away the minimum diameter that you would like on that return loop plus make some allowance for clearance and do you still have room to pass between ?
Lots to think about before you lay one section of track . A thought to make you smile , in finescale Ogauge the minimum radius we usually try for is 6ft or 1800mm .
I think I can go 20" radius on the return loop. Once I get the boards down I'll have a better idea. Should get that done today.
Shouldn't be doing construction work in bare feet. Must have OSHA certified steel toe footwear. might also need a hard hat for any under the layout construction.
He’s the barefoot railroader! Unique.
Ahhh, but this was De-contruction work, so I'm safe.
trade the wife for more material lmao
Are you trying to get me in trouble?
hmmmmm to comment or not to comment that is the question....... Firstly, I do not see the sense of buying a whole lot of foam to cover up what you have there... and the glue that goes with it when all you need to do is cut out the sections where you need or want a river etc.. for your bridges. yeah, you need some new foam for the new part you are building. Secondly, I do not see why you are going back to 18" curves for the "smaller engines" why not make all curves 22" then ALL trains can use ALL parts of the track regardless!.. Thirdly, make all parts accessible when you bend over with your arm outstretched to reach the furthest part, so nothing is more than 3ft wide approx, so you can get at it for derailments and scenery repairs etc.. as derailments will happen no matter what as we all know. Do not bring tracks inwards, try to keep them out as far as possible to the outer edges of your layout so that you can get that better radius needed for smoother running of your trains. This does 2 things.. it makes better radiuses and also gives you more space on the inside for sidings and areas to set up trains and also store them on display instead of packing them up all the time, yes the more trains you have the more you will switch them about but for lives etc you can leave them on display etc... I look forward to the fast forwarded videos of your slow and calculated decisions on how to make your railway better and more interesting instead of just circles and ovals.... your good friend Tim.
More foam for more height. I don't want to cut into my baseboards.
Only potentially using 18" where the track loops back inside the layout. Any wider would be coming in to the walk space on the inside of the layout. I still need to have room for working on my big white table (train repairs, scenic stuff etc). I don't have a separate room for doing all that stuff.
In a perfect world, I would have a massive room, with a 2 foot shelf layout around the whole room, but I need to make compromises with the space I have. So over-reaching is always going to be an issue. And yes, I need to have the inner dog-bone loop or I lose support from my wife.
I'm still not sold on the new small incline idea. Even if it's just an inch, do I really need the headache of possible un-coupling? Again, wife wants the incline, but I might need to put my foot down on that one.
I took today off from the build, needed some time to consider my options.
As you know I am only making suggestions to help... at the end of the day it's your layout and you will do it how you want... lol with the wife's input of course lol...