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If you watch your own video of it when going up the rails on the bridge actually touch the opposing rails and rail ties. @1:31 The hinge plates (Parts that touch the timber) actually move so you might need to tighten up the fixing screws or add longer screws. @3:09 and @3:13 @3:20 to 3:38 there is also flexing in the hinges on the mounting plates. There are screws on the inside which tighten up the mechanism (I used to run a handyman business and fitted many hundreds of these in kitchens over the years)... When yo laid the track you should have left some gaps in the joins every so far to allow for expansion and Contraction..(Yes Dave that was the word you were looking for)......... Great little informative video...

Very cool 👍🏻

That "Gateway" is a great design Dave. Just needs a bit more patience to use? 🤔 Have a great weekend Happy modelling

We all have regrets ❤

nice

Mister Scott, it is called expansion and contration. Mike

Thank you very much!!!

Great video and I'm sure Frank will be happy. Jersey Bill

great vid .. its the lil things like this no one thinks of and no one normally shows that everyone has problems with

Cork will absorb moisture and when it dry it will contract meaning in Canada the summer ur track is high and winter the are lower and foam also does this

Dave, I noticed that your hinge plate mounting is moving on your base structure, This wobble may be giving false reaction of the hinge, Suggest more fixings to secure this plate?

Hi Dave, the word you were looking for is contract (vs expand).

I think the way i built my lift bridge is the better way , file the entry points of the travel , bevel helps wheels enter the track , but yours does work

FUnny guy!

I saw your hidden hinged lift up and decided to build one. Have done Ok EXCEPT the hinged side. I have reviewed and re-reviewed the videos but can't keep the tracks from fouling each other when raising the lift out bridge section. Can you post a video of the hinged end raising and lowering. Thanks

The observation car is very nice.

Great work Dave. Blends in well with the other containers. Happy modelling 👍

Good evening. What are you printing? Looks to be a sand service facility?

Great

Impressive again Dave way to go 😊

Firstly, instead of hitting the download all files you can select just the ones you want and then save them instead of having to unzip and have extra files that are not needed..... Secondly, Instead of rotating using the red arrows if you go to the next box beside the rotate one you can select which face to lay on the bed. It is much quicker and easier. When I'm not using my printer for a few days or more I cover it using an old pillow case to stop it getting dust and particles all over it. I also store my filament rolls each in a large ziploc bag and then in a large plastic container to stop it all drying out. I have different settings when using UltiMaker Cura which cuts down the printing time and gives me finer detail. You do not need a raft when printing something this size as it will adhere to the bed on its own. When comparing the 2 containers, the one you printed was 40ft and the larger one with the extended sections past the square pin section is probably a 48 or 53ft container. Containers come in 5 standard sizes 10ft, 20ft, 40ft, 48ft and 53ft but there are High Cube, Bulk Liquid and Refers which will have slightly different sizes available.

Well Done Dave.. that will save you lots of money on shipping containers

That was informative especially the site "thingiverse" thanks. Jersey Bill

Love it, it looks great especially with your logo

Dave what model 3D printer do you have. I've been thinking of getting one. They turned out great.

Printing them yourself is definitely a huge savings. 3D printers can pay for themselves very quickly. Nice demonstration and discussion.

So cool to watch the 3D printer 😊

Again Dave congrats looks great

Very nice…

For your lake have you thought of using a piece of glass painted on the back side then your lake will only be the thickness of the glass

Thanks, that’s a big savings

While I appreciate the opportunities presented by 3-D printing model railroad details at home, my concern is for the small independent businesses who produce these commercially and are trying to survive in a niche market and those of us who support them and have no interest in purchasing a 3-D printer.

Dave I will take a dozen

Your setting up and printing time makes me appreciate my Bambu Labs X1C Carbon even more. took 1 hour and 44 minutes to print the same container. Thanks for the video.

You need an HO scale ruler. lol

That turned out real nice. Makes me almost want to buy a 3D printer.

Looks great!

FYI. On thingieverse if you download the individual file you do not have to wait for the advertisemnt like you do when you when you use "Download all files".. Another hint: If you import your files into tinkercad you can cut off your posts and work on a flat surface. Some slicers like Orca (or Bambu Labs) allow you to make the cuts in the slicer. I do not know if you can do that in Cura. Love your videos!

great job

It takes so long to print. Do you suppose one day we'll have a Star Trek-type replicator that can do it in mere seconds?

The big container is a 53 footer, your new 40 footer is a standard size not a high cube. ATB

Nicely done 👍

Nice work, they looks great 👍🏻

1st shipping container I printed was solid. I sucked up so much resin. I hollowed out the container and it used way less. Most of those slicing softwares will allow you to hollow the files out.

I just completed a set of 3 of both smooth and corrugated side containers myself along with the stack cars to put them on. They're painted and now I need to decal them.😊

Once the power truck is removed, you can immerse the entire truck ion Gem Glo Delicate Jewelry Cleaner available from WallMart (under 10 dollars US) and let soak forf 5 minutes. Using alligator clips to the motor contacts, apply power and watch as the liquid cleans the mechanism. Remove he clips and wash the truck under water and allow to dry thoroughly. The other option is to drill ouit the rivets holding the bottom plate on, clean the motor and oil the bearings, reassemble with along 2-56 screw and nut.

In the center of the truck side frames notice a hole that aligns with the screw. Insert he screwdriver in the hole to remove the truck assembly.

As long as everyone is confused, we're all fine! 🚄

What brand or part number if you have it of a turnout did you use?

Power pickups have been a constant obsession for me. Always inventing something new every time.