You guys have the best night vision content, the best website, and the best customer service. Absolutely killing it on all fronts, keep up the great work. I'm glad I found you guys.
As always, excellent information. I use a process that is a little more labor intensive and requires a buddy, but it is dead nuts on and can be done without firing a shot. Step 1. On any paper target place a 1-inch round pasty then use a sharpie to put a dot in the middle. Step 2. Place the muzzle of a weapon that is clear and safe against the target while looking through your zeroed optic which will be aimed in on the pasty. Then turn on your visible laser while looking through your optic aimed on the pasty and make a mark with a sharpie where the laser is pointing on the target. Step 3. Now do the same thing at 25 yards while having a buddy feed you data that will move your laser to its original mark. Step 5. Repeat this complete process again at 50 yards and you are good to go. Then shoot to confirm
I chose to run a parallel. Seems to have more practical civilian shtf application. I'm in a small urban environment with medium distances at best so i think not having to do my ky maths on a converging point may be easier on the fly. This way I only should have to fight elevation in theory depending on distance.
Super useful thanks and yes if you can afford it get a vis/ir laser. I have an le117 and only zero with a laser bore sight. No where near me to zero at night sadly.
New(ish) to lasers. This will be the first time setting up parallel. I have an NGAL. The laser is mounted at 12 o-clock. If I am understanding right, where the laser is on the target, the bullet should impact low and to the left. Taking out the bullet rise and fall factor, the bullet should hit an inch or so to the left of the point of aim (laser), correct? I'm waiting for the range to warm up and dry out. to fire my zeroing shots.
There is no offset on a converging zero if you zero your "IR" laser to your already zeroed optic at the "Furthest" distance possible all without firing a single shot. Your hold overs/unders will be the same as your optic. The vertical and horizontal adjusters are very coarse @ 1moa per click, so even with a parallel zero you are more than likely for your zero to be offset at distance, This can all be verified by looking through your optic at distance.
This is laser and distance dependent, if the POA/POI converge at a relatively close range the offset at further distances can be more substantial. TBH we are splitting hairs any way you choose to go. This video is intended to help understand the process not necessarily advocate for any particular method.
New to night vision and lasers and this is how I did mine just based on common sense. I actually shot last night and it worked well. I was only shooting known distances though
THANK YOU. Parallel Zero is a myth and you risk a DIVERGING zero. Zero to your optic POA while pointing at the furthest visible distance (500-600y will do)
For whatever reason I thought I could move my vis laser from my dbal a3 in line with my Red dot on my compm4 and it would be fine, went out and started shooting under nods and wasn’t hitting shit, but then I also found out the mount that was on my dbal was loose af. So that could have been it ?
Overlap your "IR" laser to your already zeroed red dot at the furthest distance possible, that way all your hold overs/under will be the same as your RDS.
You guys have the best night vision content, the best website, and the best customer service. Absolutely killing it on all fronts, keep up the great work. I'm glad I found you guys.
Thank you so much!
As always, excellent information. I use a process that is a little more labor intensive and requires a buddy, but it is dead nuts on and can be done without firing a shot. Step 1. On any paper target place a 1-inch round pasty then use a sharpie to put a dot in the middle. Step 2. Place the muzzle of a weapon that is clear and safe against the target while looking through your zeroed optic which will be aimed in on the pasty. Then turn on your visible laser while looking through your optic aimed on the pasty and make a mark with a sharpie where the laser is pointing on the target. Step 3. Now do the same thing at 25 yards while having a buddy feed you data that will move your laser to its original mark. Step 5. Repeat this complete process again at 50 yards and you are good to go. Then shoot to confirm
Thanks for the free content. I know it takes time.
Thank you for watching.
I just realized I can use my Mantis Dry-Fire laser to help my zero the visible laser of my NGAL. :) This just got a little easier and less expensive.
Nicely explained,I am from India
Very informative video! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank You for the video Kevin... all info is good info for thought.
Thank you for watching!
I chose to run a parallel. Seems to have more practical civilian shtf application. I'm in a small urban environment with medium distances at best so i think not having to do my ky maths on a converging point may be easier on the fly. This way I only should have to fight elevation in theory depending on distance.
Super useful thanks and yes if you can afford it get a vis/ir laser. I have an le117 and only zero with a laser bore sight. No where near me to zero at night sadly.
Yeah it can be a pain to get them properly zeroed.
Very informative video!
What do I think! Do I look like an Operator! 😂 Great video Brother!
Thank you!
Great information
Nice video!
Thank you, we work hard on them.
New(ish) to lasers. This will be the first time setting up parallel. I have an NGAL. The laser is mounted at 12 o-clock. If I am understanding right, where the laser is on the target, the bullet should impact low and to the left. Taking out the bullet rise and fall factor, the bullet should hit an inch or so to the left of the point of aim (laser), correct?
I'm waiting for the range to warm up and dry out. to fire my zeroing shots.
yes
What do you think about horizontal parallel at 50 m with a converging vertical?
Donde puedo descargarme los blancos gratuitos?
👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for the lesson. Good clesr content. What do es the US Mil use most often when doing CQB - converge or parallel?
Converging
Everyone who talks about PID has never fought muzzle flashes before.
You explained this in the most confusing way possible lol
Honestly its a lot more direct and concise than what the majority of NV instructors teach.
👍
There is no offset on a converging zero if you zero your "IR" laser to your already zeroed optic at the "Furthest" distance possible all without firing a single shot. Your hold overs/unders will be the same as your optic. The vertical and horizontal adjusters are very coarse @ 1moa per click, so even with a parallel zero you are more than likely for your zero to be offset at distance, This can all be verified by looking through your optic at distance.
This is laser and distance dependent, if the POA/POI converge at a relatively close range the offset at further distances can be more substantial. TBH we are splitting hairs any way you choose to go. This video is intended to help understand the process not necessarily advocate for any particular method.
New to night vision and lasers and this is how I did mine just based on common sense. I actually shot last night and it worked well. I was only shooting known distances though
THANK YOU. Parallel Zero is a myth and you risk a DIVERGING zero. Zero to your optic POA while pointing at the furthest visible distance (500-600y will do)
For whatever reason I thought I could move my vis laser from my dbal a3 in line with my Red dot on my compm4 and it would be fine, went out and started shooting under nods and wasn’t hitting shit, but then I also found out the mount that was on my dbal was loose af. So that could have been it ?
Yeah possibly
Overlap your "IR" laser to your already zeroed red dot at the furthest distance possible, that way all your hold overs/under will be the same as your RDS.
Duh nigga