Just wanted to say I love watching your videos. I work as a finance manager and enjoy having your videos playing in the background while I'm at my desk. It's a surprisingly relaxing combination to hear soft piano music combined with machine sounds.
This is SO amazing to watch! I have limited tools for my workshop/garage but, I am an avid chess player and have been wanting to build a nice board for years! This is giving me ideas! Thanks
Lookin really fly. Excellently cut, incredibly detailed, beautifully aged, nicely polished, and very satisfying to behold. The chess board isn't bad either.
Awesome chess board. Just a suggestion. After using the CNC to carve in the letters and numbers, you can use an epoxy resin to fill them in. Many different colors and pearl powers. then just sand off the over flow and you are in business. No more hand painting multiple coats.
Epoxy doesn't look bright red on a dark wood like ebony unless maybe I mixed it with a mother of pearl powder. Blood wood and padauk are not colorfast and darken over time when exposed to UV light, so that wouldn't be suitable because the client wanted the inlays to match the color of his company's logo.
I'm hooked on the W.U.M.I series showing how you do this incredible work ... Unique design and personalised finish that firmly places your chess boards in a league of their own ...👍 ...
It's a beautiful board and you showed great craftsmanship, but I don't like the red-dyed inlays. They just don't look sharp / clear / colourful enough to stand out - the quality doesn't seem up to the rest of the board imho. I read your comments about not being able to use alternative woods as their colour fades, hence the stain, but what about epoxy filling? You can have any colour including metallic and high gloss bright options and seems easier to do than the wood inserts you CNC'ed. Or could the inserts have been soaked in red dye before gluing in place, to get them brighter and sharper? I also don't get the double-sided board thing, I'm a chessplayer, I wouldn't have thought the notation bothers people who don't use it . Thanks for sharing the build process, very interesting.
Nice job Mike, as always. I have only used ebony in turning pens and have found it to be difficult to work with--it chips or cracks easily and it is so hard that when turning it creates a lot of black dust that can get into everything. The border of the playing area and the edge banding in maple are nice contrast pieces to the ebony base.
I found the ebony quite easy to work with when cutting, but I had the same problem when turning a few of the chess pieces. Some of them turned fine, while others had a lot of chipping that I had to sand out. I think it may depend on the piece of wood. The dust definitely gets everywhere and that's why my hands were black throughout the video. I forgot to mention on the voiceover, but it was a challenge to sand the maple edge banding to remove the black ebony dust. An air compressor helps a lot with that.
@@Woodumakeit Excellent video and really nice work, there! On the topic of ebony sawdust, I'm putting together a holly and gaboon ebony chessboard. I'm concerned that sanding of any kind over the whole surface once it's put together will really bleed ebony sawdust into the nice white holly. You mention the difficulty you had with the maple edge banding, but did you not run into that problem whatsoever with the boxwood on the chess board surface itself?
I am in a similar situation making a macassar ebony and maple chess board. Any problems with ebony dust affecting the white squares? Also any problems using standard wood glue with the ebony?
The main reason is that padauk doesn't stay a bright red for very long. It darkens with age to become a deep reddish brown. I needed to replicate the color of the company's logo as closely as possible, so that's why I decided to use dye.
Amazing quality, great job. The only thing I would change, if I had the ability to, is the red text to gold leaf. Or maybe putting brass in instead. Beautiful result though none the less.
This is an extremely well made chess board, using the ideal hard wearing woods for the purpose. I'd love to own it, WITHOUT the company loggo which is distracting. Also, the chess pieces are modern and artistic, and nice for ornamentation, though I would have to have 'Staunton' style chess pieces (used universally in tounaments and easily recognisable) if actually PLAYING the game. Thanks for the entertaining watch.
I love the board and if I had the money I would seriously consider you making a similar one. I am not too keen on the chess pieces myself even though they look nice
its letters and numbers on two sides of the board so the other player can see there own letters and numbers as well,good job do i wood of used red stickers
@@Woodumakeit Ah, that sounds logical. I wouldn't have guessed you would hear the different pitches of the electromotors spinning. At least, that's what I assume that sound is?
Thanks for another wonderfully instructive video. I recently made my first two chess boards, and was inspired to do so from your work. I have a long way to go to reach your level, but it is a lot of fun! Did you get a new miter saw somewhere along the way? You started with a Rigid and moved to a Delta... Thanks again for the video. I really enjoy these.
Thanks for the feedback. I did get a new miter saw because I built new cabinets along the back wall and didn't want to have to leave clearance for the rails. I liked the design of the Delta even though I knew the dust collection sucked (or doesn't suck). It's worse than I could have imagined, but the saw itself is great. I waited for a long time to get a really good price on Amazon. The Ridgid is now my job site saw and it's perfect for what I need.
Hello Mike what is the RPM speed on the chuck when you’re finishing the chess piece? I want to buy a mini lathe with a chuck to do some staining on some unfinished chess pieces I have Thank you, Jorge from NYC.
A couple of reasons. One is so that you can play with or without the notation. The other reason is so that there are squares on both sides to balance the forces when the wood expands and contracts. If the squares were only on one side of the plywood, the chances of the board warping is much greater.
@@Woodumakeit "One is so that you can play with or without the notation." This does not make any sense to me. No real chess player would even notice whether there was notation or not: it certainly wouldn't bother any chess player one way or the other. Nobody beyond the beginner stage needs notation anyway; if you're a chess player you already automatically know the notation of every square on the board. And while the carpentry is absolutely beautiful, I cannot imagine anyone actually playing chess with those pieces. They would be just for a decorative board for a non-player.
If you were to make this chess board again, would you reconsider the use of hard red nylon plastic for the lettering? This would give a very solid desired red color that would look probably a lot better than the somewhat compromised dyed wood lettering?
I had originally intended to use red anodized aluminum for the annotation, but I found it to be too difficult to cut those small pieces. I would definitely look for alternatives next time. Another viewer suggested G10, which is a high pressure fiberglass laminate used for knife handles. I think that, or the nylon plastic that you suggested, would be worth trying.
@@Woodumakeit Hi Mike: Another option for the lettering is to use a red-colored (liquid) epoxy that can be poured into the female cavities for the letters. An advantage of this 'poured plastic inlay' approach is that there would be 'perfect' conformity of the letters within the wood itself.
I have a SketchUp drawing that I made to exchange ideas with the client, but I don't have any real plans. If you'd like the SketchUp drawing, just send me an email to woodumakeit@gmail.com.
what thickness are you cutting the boards your using to make the squares 1/2 or 3/4? I've learned so much i am going to attempt to make one of these myself.
I aim for a final thickness of the board to be 1 1/4". I very often use 1/2" plywood and cut the strips of wood on my bandsaw to 1/2" thick so that they end up being 3/8" thick after sanding. Because ebony is so expensive, I used 3/4" plywood and cut the strips to be about 3/8" thick and sanded them down to about 1/4" to give an overall thickness of 1 1/4". Good luck with your build!
Padauk is not a bright enough red, especially after it ages. The client wanted a bright red to match his company's logo, so that's why I resorted to a light wood with a red dye.
I didn't really consider those types of wood for this application because the client wanted a bright red to reflect the color of his logo. Something like bloodwood is not color fast and will darken over time. I had considered using red anodized aluminum, but after making some test cuts on my CNC, I was worried about getting clean edges and dealing with sanding without removing the color.
Do you have issues with cracking and warping? I've been thinking about a chess set and I can't come up with how to prevent wood expansion and contraction issues other than just veneering very thin strips to plywood, but I would think that half inch ones would be big enough to cause issues. Are they thin enough not to be a problem?
Fantastic work! Question…when you assemble / glue the rows to make the squares, do you need to be concerned at all with wood movement…and make sure the grain is facing a particular direction?
Gorgeous chessboard! I noted after you glue the 2.25 in squares to the plywood with a 1/2 in over hang of plywood that you said you trimmed off an ever so slight edge to square up the chessboard. Doesn’t that make the outer squares slightly less that 2.25 compared to the inner squares? I was going to try and make a chessboard for my grandson, but of course not to your level of craftsmanship.
Looks like you were having a bit of trouble at the start with your wide belt do you know what the reasoning was for that? great work as always haven't seen a board you've made that I'm not jealous of
I noticed that your roller belt on your sander is doing a bit of a wave and you had to readjust some strips so that it would roll through your sander I've never used a belt sander like yours so was wondering if the belt just needed tightening or if it was normal there is a small Amount of wave around the 10:25 mark
I see what you mean. I had to loosen the belt on that side because it was tracking toward the motor and I already had the other side tightened quite a bit. It's not really a problem for the belt to be loose like that as long as it's tracking properly. Another viewer commented a few months ago that he has a similar issue with the same belt, so there must be something a little off with those replacement belts.
Cool stuff. What was the raw material cost on this one? (I’m almost always curious about material cost + final price on you videos, would love if you included that!) Also, do you find it stressful working with such expensive materials? Keep up the great work, love the channel and cool to watch production quality improve every time!
The plywood helps to minimize the effect of wood expanding and contracting during seasonal changes, so it's a good idea to use this method. Since ebony is so expensive, it also helps to control the cost of the materials.
@@Woodumakeit I love your work and your videos! I just discovered your channel and have watched two builds so far. My concern was that the plywood might limit the expansion and contraction of the hardwoods as they go through their seasonal expansion and contraction. But I am assuming that you have done this enough times to test the concept without any issues.
Where did you get Ebony? Which ebony species is it? I know African ebony is on the red list and hard to come by. Might even be illegal to import to the US. I believe there at least 3 species nearly a black as African Ebony. I believe I have 3 small boards left from some I bought years ago. Nice work
I made the chess pieces for this board, but I have not attempted to make anything more traditional. Even these simple pieces take an enormous amount of time. I just don't have enough time to pull it off.
I'd love to know the cost on this. I recently saw a video of a $2000 chess board build that looked like it could have been done in a few days with less than $100 in materials. That person needs to watch this video because this has got to be every bit of $2000-3000.
I saw that video and the price was a little over the top. The price of this board without the pieces was roughly $2,500 due to the very high cost of ebony and the labor involved with all of the inlay.
@@Woodumakeit Beautiful! I'd say the buyer got a deal for that price considering the superior craftsmanship and all that inlay. Beautiful job as are all of your videos!
I can't believe how easily your bandsaw cut through that ebony... Mine would be screaming "No, please God no" if I tried to resaw that stuff lol Absolutely beautiful board. I love all of your work. Definitely goals
I bought that saw specifically to do this board because I was worried I'd struggle to resaw the ebony. It turned out to be way easier than I expected. I think I struggle more with maple than I did with the ebony. Of course, a brand new blade didn't hurt. 😉
Just a thought anybody with a workshop like yours wont need a tutorial on how to make a chess board...How about you show us how to do it with regular tools!!!
That's a good point. If you look at some of my earlier videos from 2018-2019 before I moved into this workshop, I was doing a lot more by hand. I still had a drum sander even then, which was a game changer for me, but for things like algebraic notation I would carefully rout out the letters by hand with a handheld router, and for engraving initials, I would hand carve them with chisels.
Just wanted to say I love watching your videos. I work as a finance manager and enjoy having your videos playing in the background while I'm at my desk. It's a surprisingly relaxing combination to hear soft piano music combined with machine sounds.
This is SO amazing to watch! I have limited tools for my workshop/garage but, I am an avid chess player and have been wanting to build a nice board for years! This is giving me ideas! Thanks
Lookin really fly.
Excellently cut, incredibly detailed, beautifully aged, nicely polished, and very satisfying to behold.
The chess board isn't bad either.
Made me laugh!!
@@Woodumakeit That's what I'm here for :)
Awesome chess board. Just a suggestion. After using the CNC to carve in the letters and numbers, you can use an epoxy resin to fill them in. Many different colors and pearl powers. then just sand off the over flow and you are in business. No more hand painting multiple coats.
Or use bloodwood for these areas. It's about the same color as the dye he used.
Epoxy doesn't look bright red on a dark wood like ebony unless maybe I mixed it with a mother of pearl powder. Blood wood and padauk are not colorfast and darken over time when exposed to UV light, so that wouldn't be suitable because the client wanted the inlays to match the color of his company's logo.
Have you ever made a chessboard on one side and a backgammon board on the other?
Excellent music choices. Excellent craftsmanship and attention to detail. :)
Amazing attention to details.
Above and beyond! Amazing. Needs more views
Soothing voice, mellow music, and a super build. I was hypnotised.
I'm hooked on the W.U.M.I series showing how you do this incredible work ...
Unique design and personalised finish that firmly places your chess boards in a league of their own ...👍 ...
I've watched a few of you're vids what great boards and skill
Beautiful work, well explained and nicely documented. Thank you so much for sharing.
Here I am, anticipating that new chess board for Xmas. Watching videos on you making them.
It's a beautiful board and you showed great craftsmanship, but I don't like the red-dyed inlays. They just don't look sharp / clear / colourful enough to stand out - the quality doesn't seem up to the rest of the board imho. I read your comments about not being able to use alternative woods as their colour fades, hence the stain, but what about epoxy filling? You can have any colour including metallic and high gloss bright options and seems easier to do than the wood inserts you CNC'ed. Or could the inserts have been soaked in red dye before gluing in place, to get them brighter and sharper?
I also don't get the double-sided board thing, I'm a chessplayer, I wouldn't have thought the notation bothers people who don't use it .
Thanks for sharing the build process, very interesting.
Nice job Mike, as always. I have only used ebony in turning pens and have found it to be difficult to work with--it chips or cracks easily and it is so hard that when turning it creates a lot of black dust that can get into everything. The border of the playing area and the edge banding in maple are nice contrast pieces to the ebony base.
I found the ebony quite easy to work with when cutting, but I had the same problem when turning a few of the chess pieces. Some of them turned fine, while others had a lot of chipping that I had to sand out. I think it may depend on the piece of wood. The dust definitely gets everywhere and that's why my hands were black throughout the video. I forgot to mention on the voiceover, but it was a challenge to sand the maple edge banding to remove the black ebony dust. An air compressor helps a lot with that.
@@Woodumakeit Excellent video and really nice work, there! On the topic of ebony sawdust, I'm putting together a holly and gaboon ebony chessboard. I'm concerned that sanding of any kind over the whole surface once it's put together will really bleed ebony sawdust into the nice white holly. You mention the difficulty you had with the maple edge banding, but did you not run into that problem whatsoever with the boxwood on the chess board surface itself?
I am in a similar situation making a macassar ebony and maple chess board. Any problems with ebony dust affecting the white squares? Also any problems using standard wood glue with the ebony?
It is a very nice board, I just want to know why you didn't choose to use some red species of wood for the inlays? Like padauk or similar?
The main reason is that padauk doesn't stay a bright red for very long. It darkens with age to become a deep reddish brown. I needed to replicate the color of the company's logo as closely as possible, so that's why I decided to use dye.
@@Woodumakeit That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the reply.
Not to mention even new those are not good contrasting wood species. No reddish anything. Just my 2¢
@Wood U Make It
Your videos are so calming. And your projects are so beautiful. Thanks for sharing.
Beautifully done!
Great job, thank you for the workmanship that forces me to watch the video to the end.
Ebony and curly maple, what a better combination really. Beautiful work !
You sir are an artist!!
One of the most beautiful chess boards I've ever seen
Beautiful work!
Very nice pieces! They belong up there with the Man Ray, Max Ernst and Bauhaus pieces
This is so good.
Amazing quality, great job. The only thing I would change, if I had the ability to, is the red text to gold leaf. Or maybe putting brass in instead. Beautiful result though none the less.
Awesome!
You are the BEST..
This is an extremely well made chess board, using the ideal hard wearing woods for the purpose. I'd love to own it, WITHOUT the company loggo which is distracting. Also, the chess pieces are modern and artistic, and nice for ornamentation, though I would have to have 'Staunton' style chess pieces (used universally in tounaments and easily recognisable) if actually PLAYING the game. Thanks for the entertaining watch.
Extremely skilful mate.
Such a very clever way to do inlays, I would have never thought of this, wow, now all I need is a CNC computer-controlled router machine ;)
I love the board and if I had the money I would seriously consider you making a similar one. I am not too keen on the chess pieces myself even though they look nice
Stunning!
its letters and numbers on two sides of the board so the other player can see there own letters and numbers as well,good job do i wood of used red stickers
Wow, what is the modem-like sound i'm hearing at about 27:02?
That was my CNC router working in the background on another project.
@@Woodumakeit Ah, that sounds logical. I wouldn't have guessed you would hear the different pitches of the electromotors spinning. At least, that's what I assume that sound is?
Thanks for another wonderfully instructive video. I recently made my first two chess boards, and was inspired to do so from your work. I have a long way to go to reach your level, but it is a lot of fun!
Did you get a new miter saw somewhere along the way? You started with a Rigid and moved to a Delta...
Thanks again for the video. I really enjoy these.
Thanks for the feedback. I did get a new miter saw because I built new cabinets along the back wall and didn't want to have to leave clearance for the rails. I liked the design of the Delta even though I knew the dust collection sucked (or doesn't suck). It's worse than I could have imagined, but the saw itself is great. I waited for a long time to get a really good price on Amazon. The Ridgid is now my job site saw and it's perfect for what I need.
I like how he is using his chess board as a workbench for is frame glue ups
Fantastic work as always.
you should add bearings to that Laguna
Hello Mike what is the RPM speed on the chuck when you’re finishing the chess piece? I want to buy a mini lathe with a chuck to do some staining on some unfinished chess pieces I have Thank you, Jorge from NYC.
Scacchiera imponente e colori bellissimi. complimenti Lavoro eccellente. Potrei sapere Quanto costa questo bellissimo oggetto?
Nice board. Can make to pieces too.
Awesome Work! But i don't know why it's double sided? I see this as unnecessary extra work, or am I making a mistake here?
A couple of reasons. One is so that you can play with or without the notation. The other reason is so that there are squares on both sides to balance the forces when the wood expands and contracts. If the squares were only on one side of the plywood, the chances of the board warping is much greater.
@@Woodumakeit "One is so that you can play with or without the notation." This does not make any sense to me. No real chess player would even notice whether there was notation or not: it certainly wouldn't bother any chess player one way or the other. Nobody beyond the beginner stage needs notation anyway; if you're a chess player you already automatically know the notation of every square on the board. And while the carpentry is absolutely beautiful, I cannot imagine anyone actually playing chess with those pieces. They would be just for a decorative board for a non-player.
If you were to make this chess board again, would you reconsider the use of hard red nylon plastic for the lettering? This would give a very solid desired red color that would look probably a lot better than the somewhat compromised dyed wood lettering?
I had originally intended to use red anodized aluminum for the annotation, but I found it to be too difficult to cut those small pieces. I would definitely look for alternatives next time. Another viewer suggested G10, which is a high pressure fiberglass laminate used for knife handles. I think that, or the nylon plastic that you suggested, would be worth trying.
@@Woodumakeit Hi Mike: Another option for the lettering is to use a red-colored (liquid) epoxy that can be poured into the female cavities for the letters. An advantage of this 'poured plastic inlay' approach is that there would be 'perfect' conformity of the letters within the wood itself.
Beautiful piece!!! I was wondering if you had the plans to this piece?
I have a SketchUp drawing that I made to exchange ideas with the client, but I don't have any real plans. If you'd like the SketchUp drawing, just send me an email to woodumakeit@gmail.com.
beautiful work. at 26:15 you look like you've been working in the coal mines.love the subtlety of the music.
You did a wonderful job. Just a curious question. How much did that cost to make?
You almost need three hands to clamp that board ... your patents is spot on
awesome work. 2 questions if you don't mind. 1 what type of blades do you use for your band saw? 2 WHERE do you get your boxwood?
perfect
Beautiful
Wow you are very skilled. I'm afraid to even ask how much commissioning a piece of this caliber world set me back lol
what thickness are you cutting the boards your using to make the squares 1/2 or 3/4? I've learned so much i am going to attempt to make one of these myself.
I aim for a final thickness of the board to be 1 1/4". I very often use 1/2" plywood and cut the strips of wood on my bandsaw to 1/2" thick so that they end up being 3/8" thick after sanding. Because ebony is so expensive, I used 3/4" plywood and cut the strips to be about 3/8" thick and sanded them down to about 1/4" to give an overall thickness of 1 1/4". Good luck with your build!
bravo
Hello! I was just wondering... Isn`t there a problem with wood movement if you glue solid wood on plywood?
why not use padauk wood on the letters and numbers instead. the dye is not so vibrant on the first paint as you've said.
Padauk is not a bright enough red, especially after it ages. The client wanted a bright red to match his company's logo, so that's why I resorted to a light wood with a red dye.
Fortunately, you got the orientation right. Black A1. I have seen beautiful boards made the wrong way and that really hurts.
What's your dust collection system?
Ok. So why did you make it double sided?
was curious if you had considered blood wood or bubinga for the inlay
I didn't really consider those types of wood for this application because the client wanted a bright red to reflect the color of his logo. Something like bloodwood is not color fast and will darken over time. I had considered using red anodized aluminum, but after making some test cuts on my CNC, I was worried about getting clean edges and dealing with sanding without removing the color.
20:24 no such thing as too much glue, huh?
another masterpiece.
Do you have issues with cracking and warping? I've been thinking about a chess set and I can't come up with how to prevent wood expansion and contraction issues other than just veneering very thin strips to plywood, but I would think that half inch ones would be big enough to cause issues. Are they thin enough not to be a problem?
Fantastic work! Question…when you assemble / glue the rows to make the squares, do you need to be concerned at all with wood movement…and make sure the grain is facing a particular direction?
Forgive my ignorance, but what is the reasoning for a double-sided chess board? The wood working is beautiful!
It's so they can play on one side with notation but turn it over and also play without notation.
How much would this board cost? (minus the letters and graphics)
What brand of CNC router are you using
It's a Laguna IQ Series CNC that I use.
Gorgeous chessboard! I noted after you glue the 2.25 in squares to the plywood with a 1/2 in over hang of plywood that you said you trimmed off an ever so slight edge to square up the chessboard. Doesn’t that make the outer squares slightly less that 2.25 compared to the inner squares? I was going to try and make a chessboard for my grandson, but of course not to your level of craftsmanship.
Yes, the outer squares are slightly smaller, but it's not something that is noticeable to the naked eye. I likely cut off a maximum of 1/32".
Looks like you were having a bit of trouble at the start with your wide belt do you know what the reasoning was for that? great work as always haven't seen a board you've made that I'm not jealous of
I'm not sure what part you're asking about. If you point me to the right part of the video, I'd be happy to explain what was happening.
I noticed that your roller belt on your sander is doing a bit of a wave and you had to readjust some strips so that it would roll through your sander I've never used a belt sander like yours so was wondering if the belt just needed tightening or if it was normal there is a small Amount of wave around the 10:25 mark
I see what you mean. I had to loosen the belt on that side because it was tracking toward the motor and I already had the other side tightened quite a bit. It's not really a problem for the belt to be loose like that as long as it's tracking properly. Another viewer commented a few months ago that he has a similar issue with the same belt, so there must be something a little off with those replacement belts.
Ahh thank you for letting me know I'll have to keep that in mind when the wife lets me get a belt sander
Cool stuff. What was the raw material cost on this one? (I’m almost always curious about material cost + final price on you videos, would love if you included that!) Also, do you find it stressful working with such expensive materials? Keep up the great work, love the channel and cool to watch production quality improve every time!
Awesome board, would you sell it ;)
Is plywood specifically necessary to prevent possible warping of the board with time? Just wondering why not use ebony, for example
The plywood helps to minimize the effect of wood expanding and contracting during seasonal changes, so it's a good idea to use this method. Since ebony is so expensive, it also helps to control the cost of the materials.
@@Woodumakeit I love your work and your videos! I just discovered your channel and have watched two builds so far. My concern was that the plywood might limit the expansion and contraction of the hardwoods as they go through their seasonal expansion and contraction. But I am assuming that you have done this enough times to test the concept without any issues.
WOW
Another beautiful board!! By the way, what's your ELO?
My Elo? Well.....I know how to arrange the pieces on the board, but that's about it. 😂
Where did you get Ebony? Which ebony species is it? I know African ebony is on the red list and hard to come by. Might even be illegal to import to the US. I believe there at least 3 species nearly a black as African Ebony. I believe I have 3 small boards left from some I bought years ago. Nice work
This is Gabon (or Gaboon) Ebony. I get it from a place called Exotic Lumber in Annapolis, MD. It's pricey, but they have plenty available.
Love your work. Do you also make chess pieces?
I made the chess pieces for this board, but I have not attempted to make anything more traditional. Even these simple pieces take an enormous amount of time. I just don't have enough time to pull it off.
Question what do you charge for your boards?
Wonderful masterpiece and how much is it?
This one was pricey due to the cost of the ebony and boxwood. It was around $3,000.
Gorgeous! I'd use these pieces with it: video name: "The Sher-E-Punjab Series Handmade Wooden Chess Set | Chessbazaar"
Australian Red Gum sealed stays reddish pink forever...But it probably costs $500 a linear foot!!! Lol...Nice work bro...
I'm guessing that the ebony is around $100 a board foot, and that the material he's used here is over $1,000 of just the ebony
I'd love to know the cost on this. I recently saw a video of a $2000 chess board build that looked like it could have been done in a few days with less than $100 in materials. That person needs to watch this video because this has got to be every bit of $2000-3000.
I saw that video and the price was a little over the top. The price of this board without the pieces was roughly $2,500 due to the very high cost of ebony and the labor involved with all of the inlay.
@@Woodumakeit Beautiful! I'd say the buyer got a deal for that price considering the superior craftsmanship and all that inlay. Beautiful job as are all of your videos!
I can't believe how easily your bandsaw cut through that ebony... Mine would be screaming "No, please God no" if I tried to resaw that stuff lol Absolutely beautiful board. I love all of your work. Definitely goals
I bought that saw specifically to do this board because I was worried I'd struggle to resaw the ebony. It turned out to be way easier than I expected. I think I struggle more with maple than I did with the ebony. Of course, a brand new blade didn't hurt. 😉
@@Woodumakeit Wait, you can get _new_ blades??!
The selection of music is quite distracting, since it seems to randomly creating moods that do not fit the story telling. Chessboard looks great!
Just a thought anybody with a workshop like yours wont need a tutorial on how to make a chess board...How about you show us how to do it with regular tools!!!
That's a good point. If you look at some of my earlier videos from 2018-2019 before I moved into this workshop, I was doing a lot more by hand. I still had a drum sander even then, which was a game changer for me, but for things like algebraic notation I would carefully rout out the letters by hand with a handheld router, and for engraving initials, I would hand carve them with chisels.
EU AMO SEU VÍDEOS VAI MEU LIKE...COLEI UMA DICA ESPERO QUE FAÇA UM ....OBRIGADO SEGUINDO O CANAL
I am a chess player, your wonderful work is somewhat spoiled by the pieces you made, they should be in usual shapes.
Absolutely wonderful but double-sided board is just a ridicules demand.
Project is really cool, but the music put me in coma. Blues rock would be better.
use all hard wood to your entire project.no to plywood
I'm really sure you can build it yourself. I did this 2 weeks ago thanks to the woodglut plans.