One of the best, to the point, videos I've ever seen. You didn't go on and on about how you got the vehicle and the full story behind it, just the facts about the repair. Thank you!
I spent all day looking for the location of the oil pressure switch, this video just made it a million times easier to find it and to unscrew and replace it all under 3 minutes
Great video fixed mine today after changing the vtech selenoid as a whole and it still leaked. I changed this part and no leaks on 2008 honda accord lx-s now.
I’m 69- I’m doing this tonight. I love these videos since I have really enjoyed learning how to work on my own vehicles. I’ve replace my radiator, my mass air intake sensor & always do my own regular maintenance. I already knew how to cook since I was the only girl in my family growing up.
If you have a pilot especially 2010-2014 do not tighten to 13lbs of torque you will strip out the threads for the sensor and create a huge problem hand tighten and then slightly snug further. If you have striped it use some tape and high temp med hold lock tight and install a new o-ring to help with the seal.
The sad thing is on the V6 Hondas around that year, like the Honda Pilot, the switch is located up on the topside near the fuel injectors and under the throttle body...and guess what it likes to do? The threads strip out with the sending unit removal and a new sender won't go back in because there is no thread to grab. I have a 2011 and this is my problem. I found that there is thread past the stripped out part the sensor cannot grab(the o-ring helps seal the sensor off with it going snug against the block), so I put teflon tape on a bolt the same thread and size long enough to reach the thread with an o ring on it and it sealed it off to be drivable again. I just got in a brass male 10m 1.25 to 10m 1.25 female adapter that looks long enough to reach the threads, so I hope to have the sensor back installed to get the check engine light off.
I have a 08 crv and my check engine came on for a p2646 . I see some and feel some back in that area around the oil switch . Does that mean I need to change it
I’ve seen where people crack the block in this area doing this job. Is it due to snapping the old one loose, or over torquing when they reinstall? (my guess). Doing the job on an 07 cr-v, and I don’t want to open a can of worms. Thanks!
Hello! This video is short and sweet. I like it! I was wondering if you might be able to help. My connector only has the bare minimum on it; a plastic piece thinner than a pen. Do you think this is okay or should I order a new connector? If so, do you know what I should search for/ where to find it? Thank you!
I was just told by my dealer that I had a leak on my 2013 Civic at the oil pressure sender. I have lifetime oil changes from them and I have gotten my money’s worth already. They quoted me over $400 to fix it. If it is this easy, they are real thieves. I guess this is how they pay for the life time oil changes.
not really thieves , most legit shops have shop labor book times already set no matter how easy the job may be , and they have to go off that , take into consideration , experience , tools etc when priced for automotive work at a shop , if this was being brought to me , i'm a mobile mechanic , i'm personally not charging $400 for this job , but i'm also not gonna do it for $20 lol something like this would be around $100 to replace .
@@panthers559 I have little problem with book rate. A shop needs a way to estimate a repair or we are at the mercy of a shop taking their time and charging that time. They will win some with jobs they can do quickly and lose some with jobs that they are less experienced with. The sensor is just sitting there out in the open. As far as expecting it to cost $20, my dealer charges more than that to replace a dirty air filter that they show me when I decide that I am not ready to buy a new one. There is no charge to replace my old one. The Civic has gone 5000 miles without losing or using a drop of oil. I made a point of checking the oil level. They didn’t mention it when it was in for another oil change. Perhaps it stopped leaking.
What symptoms did you have? when driving mine the visa light comes on and I loose power. I have to turn it off and turn it back on and it just resets then a few minutes later it does it again.
Question on this, I am in the middle of replacing the oil pressure switch on a family member's car. How can I tell if the Vtec solenoid is also leading? I thought the switch went into the solenoid, but when I took it out, I realized the switch went right into the block. Is the solenoid above the switch under the head?
It’s really hard to tell what’s leaking in that area either VTEC valve body gasket, o-rings on pressure switches on VTEC valve body or oil pressure sensor/switch here illustrated…… You have to clean up that area real good and get you a good light and run engine and monitor leak
What do we need to if the wire to the connector came out or is loose? We tried to put it back hopefully it will stay now. This is the multicolor wire when you remove the boot cover of the Oil Pressure Switch.
I have an 07 crv with code 2646...says vvt pressure switch but a lot of the videos are showing a larger part being changed...the whole solenoid I'm guessing? How do I know which one of these needs to be changed
@@jeffrey7160 Low oil pressure warning light will display on the dashboard when the oil pressure switch is leaking, even though oil level is still full. I replaced the new oem switch around $25 and no more light. An engine needs compression, fuel, and spark. In the correct amounts, and at the correct times. Which is missing when it dies? Start out with the basic, fuel pressure, spark etc… good luck. The car will start normal with low oil pressure light, leaking oil pressure switch.
When I hit 4k rpm. my car basically cuts out completely but stays running doesn't stall just cuts out badly. Could this be the cause? I cleaned my VTech screen. I need help.
Hey, so I got the code "P2647, Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch (A) Circuit High Voltage/VTEC System Stuck On". I drive a 2011 Honda Civic Ex-L, and my check engine light has been coming on and off, But every time it comes on, my VSA light and my traction control light comes on. And sometimes when I accelerate, once I hit 3000 rpms, my car wont accelerate. Will replacing this fix my problem?
That sensor is well above the level of the oil pan , I see zero reason to drain the oil as there's no reason it should start dumping out unless it's jacked up on an extreme angle but even then with how high above the pan that sensor is id still see that even being unlikely
So I have a 2002 civic ex.. I replaced the vvt solenoid but I got a code that says I need vvt oil pressure switch. Is that the same thing I just switched out? Or is the oil pressure switch different?
You can try resealing, but often the sensor will leak internally, and oil will come out the top where the electrical connector is. Try smearing some RTV around the sensor where it threads into the engine, then watch for leaks. If the leak stops or slows, its probably leaking past the threads. Stay gold.
What code was it given to know that it is the oil pressure Switch? I was given p2646 for the solenoid v tech valve(gasket) I replaced the gasket and the check engine came back again . I see no leaks .
@@MrRangerZr1 yah I did value cover gasket and the timing chain cover. I degreased engine. But it spooling up under filte. I removed air filter and tried to find area. I also did the plastic cover with gasket on it.on passenger side. I think it was a cam inspection plastic cover.
@@MrRangerZr1 ahhhh ok I installed the imports direct from O Rellies and so far so good. Their starter has been good for almost a year already. Have you ever replaced shocks on a 2004 CRV it looks annoying dealing with the seat.
Awesome video, thank you so much! Would something like high-temp permatex rtv silicone gasket work similar to the hondabond used in the video for the threads?
if not i may know where you having the leak i’m having the same problem on my acura tsx 04 i allready change the vtec seal gasket but that did not fix the problem in the Vtec valve it self there is a solenoid i change O-ring on it but still oil leak i change the other O-ring in the vtec valve
@@rickxs619 check your valve cover gasket and cam plug seal really good for any seapage and leakage they both are quite common problem areas. I usually simply take brake or carb cleaner solvent soaked thoroughly onto a microfiber cloth to wipe away the grime and built up dirt, grease and leaking oil from the area I suspect a leak to be coming from then over the next few days, weeks or months all depending on how bad a seapage or leak you have you should be able to locate the failed gasket , o-ring or seal by routine inspections with a good work light to illuminate the trouble area very clearly , if the leak is coming from making its way over and or down to the belts at all this can throw many people off due to how the fan effect of the belts will almost always draw leaked oil and dirt build up off the cylinder head and or block and throw it all over the place in places that may then appear to be the culprit of the leak but actually are not as the spray effect of the belt throws off even experienced techs at times , I've been there , that's specifically one reason I can't stress enough importance of cleaning any entire area a leak is suspected and monitor that area daily or every other day at leak with a good like to catch and locate the true source of the leak while it's actually clearly viseable what and where the leak , but key is check for oil trails every other day at least to assure your leaking oil doesn't travel too far away from your trouble area and begin to throw you off all over again due to how large an area may be oil covered if you don't check regularly enough before this happens, if it happens , start over clean meticuloulsy and like I said monitor daily if not bi-daily minimum at least with a good light , youll find your leak. One last thing , on the top end hondas are notorious for leaking valve cover gaskets , cam plug seals and vtec solenoid or oil pressure sensor solenoid block o-ring leaks , but I just figured it is worth mentioning that in my 17 years I've been a professional hi level tech I've noticed on some honda motors it's all that unheard of on a higher mileage motor to actually develope and find an external oil leak usually more like a slow seapage though coming from the head gasket, now this doesn't mean your head gasket is "blown" it simply means your head gasket has developed a little oil seap or leak in between one of the oil passage ports and the surrounding outside most part of the gasket around the local oil port or passage , if you come across this I wouldn't honestly worry about it much at all as ive only seen a couple cars with this type of leak that also has a classically blown head gasket also but if this is your case the symptoms should be quite obvious almost in every case, which is by no means really a big deal on any 4cyl honda , as long as you don't warp the head beyond allowed tolerances repairable by having it cut at a machine shop then it's a fairly easy and if done yourself fairly inexpensive repair which hardly ever ends up being a death sentence for any such motor again as long as it has not been overheated beyond a level of disrepair or not being worth repairing or both. The old single cam D series engines , the H series , C series v-6's, and some J series motors from my experience are the most common honda motors I've seen head gasket failure upon more than any other of their series of motors, the classic long lived and quite historically epic B Series engines and the K20's/K24's from my experience usually end up only blowing a head gasket as a direct result of a cooling system failure, improper maintence or low coolant level etc... They both may almost always burn what most would consider a significant amount of oil even when new but hell honest I never worked on a Japanese 4cyl that didn't burn at least half a quart every 2500-3000 miles or so, especially nissans with the 4cyls they used over the years in their sentras and altimas, those things I've seen blue smoke puffin out the tailpipe simply while at idle speed with well under 100k on the motor, and same thing on just about every 89-97 b16, and 90-98 b18a1,a2, b1 , or b2 especially the first gen obd0 90-91 1.8 B18 non vtec motors in the usdm integra omg those things smoked like a dang two stroke dirt bike half the time , in fact if I seen one that didn't I'd be more worried there's something wrong with it lmao they'll still run for ever though, can kill those original obd0 and obd1 B-series motors , yeah the obd2 versions were tough sons of bitches as well but not in my experience quite of the same epic bullet proof reliability Ive seen in the obd0-obd1 B-series those damn things are without any doubt on my top 5 of all time most indestructible engines , hell I've seen many that had been horribly neglected and abused sail well over 300,000k and just keep going, even b16's that'd been imported from Japan swapped in and out of 5+ vehicles and revved to 9k rpm's all day every day burning oil like a son a bitch yet just again just simply never die. Another bullet proof unkillable motor def also In the top 5 of all time is the 88-98 4.0L I-6 that jeep used in the cherokee , grand cherokees and wranglers , worked on a few dozen over the years with well over 400,000 miles and never had nothing but standard tune ups and expected normal maintenance done to them , back when they ran the cash for clunkers program in like 2000 or so no matter how many gallons of govt made and provided acid liquid we'd dump into the motor after draining all the oil and coolant they would run for hours are full throttle, blown 1-2 rods through the side of the block and just keep on fucking running , I mean those things literally just simply would not die , never seen anything like it in my life. Seen a couple blow 2 rods out the front timing case cover and take off half the cam gear and still just wouldn't give up , unbelievable lol.
You can go from up top at least on a 2008, you’d just have to take off the solenoid which isn’t too difficult. It’s definitely easier to go from below though.
No they aren't , especially if it's a crv made after 07, they have a lot of interchangeable parts the k24's and k20's due to in most cases having the same bolt patterns on both manifolds , valve covers and oil pans and bell housings but the k20's especially the k20a2 and k20z3 are far far superior motors and way more refined when you take eaah for what they are in their stock or mildly modified state (bolt ons etc). Hell those k24's in the 02-14 or :15 crvs made what 165-175hp or something reasonably pathetic close to those numbers , the cylinder heads , and manifolds on the k24's are an absolute joke compared to what honda gave us from the factory on the k20a2's and Z3's , even if you do a mild build combining a k24 bottom end with higher compression pistons and a k20 cyl head and have it running on even a full tune it doesn't matter what you do to the k24's they'll simply never be as comfortable and well refined not to mention easily capable of revving to 8-9k rpms all day long without skipping a beat, can you do that to a stock bottom end k24 yeah but they simply aren't as comfortable at that high an rpm you can simply just even feel how much more out of balance the larger bottom ends are via the vibration patterns felt through the gas pedal and chassis while at very high rpms, rod to stroke ratio of the k20's and cyl head flow rates without even being ported are far far superior, even to that piece of shit they stuck in the 2012-2015 civic Si's , that motor was an utter joke to the k20z3 they replaced from the 2006-2011 civic Si's, , the k20 was 400cc's smaller yet still made the same amount of hp , actually the k20a2 from the 02-06 rsx type S made a fair amount more power than both the k24 from the '12-15 Si's and k20z3 from the 8th gen Si's , A2 made what 206 or 207hp bone stock and the k20z3 and '12-'15 k24 in the 9th gen Si's both made i believe what was it 195hp no? My biother has an '08 Si sedan that we just rebuild the tranny on with carbon syncros, he's got a decent header, good 2.5" full exhaust no cat obviously , short ram with a 3.5" diameter aluminum pipe, a lightweight flywheel , stage 2 clutch , skunk2 pro series intake manifold port matched with a 74mm throttle body and the top level hondata software and it made 233whp it's 5th dyno pull running on 93 octane with 10% ethanol , shit fuel basically. With cams , valve springs headstuds and high compression pistons it should easily see 250-260whp after a proper tune, and these aren't unheard of numbers by any means , most guys with similar setups end up making somewhere close to the same power level when tuned more or less. Biggest thing holding it back right now are the stock valve springs retainers and cams, I will be installing those mods and it will go back to the tuner after that but , that's not gonna be for another 18-24 months or so, shit aint cheap playing with these things
One of the best, to the point, videos I've ever seen. You didn't go on and on about how you got the vehicle and the full story behind it, just the facts about the repair. Thank you!
I spent all day looking for the location of the oil pressure switch, this video just made it a million times easier to find it and to unscrew and replace it all under 3 minutes
Did u have to remove the tire for driver??
This is not oil pressure switch it oil sensor
*Full list of oil pressure switch fitment below:*
Newer style Honda oil pressure switch: amzn.to/2TZZvfl
(Fits 2008-2021 Accord, 2007-2021 CRV, 2006-2021 Civic, 2011-2016 CRZ, 2012-2015 Crosstour, 2009-2013 Fit, 2016-2021 HRV, 2010-2014 Insight)
Early model Honda oil pressure switch: amzn.to/3fHAhdf
(Fits 1984-2007 Accord, 1997-2006 CRV, 1984-2005 Civic, 1984-1991 CRX, 2003-2011 Element, 1993-1997 Del-sol, 1995-2007 Odyssey, 2003-2008 Pilot, 2006-2008 Ridgeline, 1985-2001 Prelude)
Hondabond sealant: amzn.to/3b3X3sa
24mm socket: amzn.to/3aVMxDf
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Ratchet/socket set: amzn.to/3rYvnxw
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What's the part number for 2003 Honda CR-V?
I have a 2004 Honda CR-V I’m replacing the same part I’m nit sure of the location
@@arlissajones5754 @David Li check the description with full list
Great video fixed mine today after changing the vtech selenoid as a whole and it still leaked. I changed this part and no leaks on 2008 honda accord lx-s now.
Thank you!! I'll possibly have VTEC up and running for the first time this afternoon! You made it look like even my 79 yr old mother could do it
I’m 69- I’m doing this tonight. I love these videos since I have really enjoyed learning how to work on my own vehicles. I’ve replace my radiator, my mass air intake sensor & always do my own regular maintenance. I already knew how to cook since I was the only girl in my family growing up.
Are you chasing down the p2646 code as well?? 😅
@@sheacameron5347I’m chasing that code, already replaced to VTEC solenoid. And the code keeps coming back. Hoping this sensor will fix it.
@@sheacameron5347yes did you figure it out? I replaced the vtec solenoid already
Nice, most of the videos forget to put on some sealant
If you have a pilot especially 2010-2014 do not tighten to 13lbs of torque you will strip out the threads for the sensor and create a huge problem hand tighten and then slightly snug further. If you have striped it use some tape and high temp med hold lock tight and install a new o-ring to help with the seal.
Too much talking, get to the point already! 😂
The sad thing is on the V6 Hondas around that year, like the Honda Pilot, the switch is located up on the topside near the fuel injectors and under the throttle body...and guess what it likes to do? The threads strip out with the sending unit removal and a new sender won't go back in because there is no thread to grab. I have a 2011 and this is my problem. I found that there is thread past the stripped out part the sensor cannot grab(the o-ring helps seal the sensor off with it going snug against the block), so I put teflon tape on a bolt the same thread and size long enough to reach the thread with an o ring on it and it sealed it off to be drivable again. I just got in a brass male 10m 1.25 to 10m 1.25 female adapter that looks long enough to reach the threads, so I hope to have the sensor back installed to get the check engine light off.
If I don't drain the oil before removing the switch, will all the oil come out?
no
I have a 08 crv and my check engine came on for a p2646 . I see some and feel some back in that area around the oil switch . Does that mean I need to change it
Not this switch, that's the solenoid on top of this oil pressure switch
I believe it might be a stupid question but here it goes… do you wait for the sealant to dry or do you install right after applying the sealant?
Install right after and then wait like overnight before starting the car
You're suppose to wait at least a day to cure. I have no choice, I waited a few hours and started driving...didn't have any issues so far.
@@fcan222you can also use that white Teflon tape that’s used for pipe thread installations. I’ve seen several videos using that.
Thks. From brazil
Driver Side or Passenger Side?
This is on the passenger side...just did mine a few months ago.
passenger side
I am having a hard time removing the connector to the switch. Is there a special trick? I have 2014 honda civic. Thanks
Try to peel back the boot far back as possible, then squeeze the tab. You can use pliers, but very careful.
Passenger side? I'm assuming this is with the tire removed?? I believe my 2011 civic 1.8 ltr would be in a similar spot?
Thanks dude!
Yes passenger side
@@MrRangerZr1 Did you have to remove the firewall?
Firewall is the metal between you and the engine...just remove the passenger wheel.
When the oil pressure switch failed did the car have a code or was the oil light coming on?
mines came on
Oil light and engine light may come on
Hi love this vid bro what did you clean the hole and threads with ?
Probably brake cleaner, it evaporates almost immediately
Brake parts cleaner
I’ve seen where people crack the block in this area doing this job. Is it due to snapping the old one loose, or over torquing when they reinstall? (my guess). Doing the job on an 07 cr-v, and I don’t want to open a can of worms. Thanks!
They would have to apply a lot of force for the block to crack...it's not a headbolt just make sure it's tight to factory specs
Was it leaking or bad reading,nice video
Leaking
Hello! This video is short and sweet. I like it!
I was wondering if you might be able to help. My connector only has the bare minimum on it; a plastic piece thinner than a pen. Do you think this is okay or should I order a new connector? If so, do you know what I should search for/ where to find it? Thank you!
The connector is broken? I would get it fixed, you need a new pigtail and have to splice into the harness.
What kind of sealant did you use and where can I buy it I’m new to this kind stuff haha
Listed in description
How do u know if oil pressure switxh is bad?? Local mechanic looked over my 07 acura tl type s and on his list was “replace oil pressure switch”.
Usually check engine light and or oil light will come on
I was just told by my dealer that I had a leak on my 2013 Civic at the oil pressure sender. I have lifetime oil changes from them and I have gotten my money’s worth already. They quoted me over $400 to fix it. If it is this easy, they are real thieves. I guess this is how they pay for the life time oil changes.
That's one way.
not really thieves , most legit shops have shop labor book times already set no matter how easy the job may be , and they have to go off that , take into consideration , experience , tools etc when priced for automotive work at a shop , if this was being brought to me , i'm a mobile mechanic , i'm personally not charging $400 for this job , but i'm also not gonna do it for $20 lol something like this would be around $100 to replace .
@@panthers559 I have little problem with book rate. A shop needs a way to estimate a repair or we are at the mercy of a shop taking their time and charging that time. They will win some with jobs they can do quickly and lose some with jobs that they are less experienced with. The sensor is just sitting there out in the open. As far as expecting it to cost $20, my dealer charges more than that to replace a dirty air filter that they show me when I decide that I am not ready to buy a new one. There is no charge to replace my old one. The Civic has gone 5000 miles without losing or using a drop of oil. I made a point of checking the oil level. They didn’t mention it when it was in for another oil change. Perhaps it stopped leaking.
Local Lincoln dealer sold only 13 cars this past year. Wonder how they are able to maintain a full staff and rebuild the dealership 😭😭
So u just have to take off the wheel to access this??? My newly acquired 2000 Accord EX is throwing this code for it and was just wondering...
More or less same location yes
What symptoms did you have? when driving mine the visa light comes on and I loose power. I have to turn it off and turn it back on and it just resets then a few minutes later it does it again.
This can cause that, limp mode.
Did it knock also ?
@MrRangerZr1 , what cleaner did you spray on the rag to clean the area? Thanks.
Brake parts cleaner
The Vtec solenoid was also leaking as you can see it drenched in oil
It was replaced
Question on this, I am in the middle of replacing the oil pressure switch on a family member's car. How can I tell if the Vtec solenoid is also leading? I thought the switch went into the solenoid, but when I took it out, I realized the switch went right into the block. Is the solenoid above the switch under the head?
It’s really hard to tell what’s leaking in that area either VTEC valve body gasket, o-rings on pressure switches on VTEC valve body or oil pressure sensor/switch here illustrated…… You have to clean up that area real good and get you a good light and run engine and monitor leak
Where exactly is this on a 2007 honda civic? Same place? Is this the drivers side front of the engine?
Front of the engine
Hello would this be the same for the 2009 accord 4 cylinder sedan? Thank.
Yes
What do we need to if the wire to the connector came out or is loose? We tried to put it back hopefully it will stay now. This is the multicolor wire when you remove the boot cover of the Oil Pressure Switch.
It should click back in place
I have an 07 crv with code 2646...says vvt pressure switch but a lot of the videos are showing a larger part being changed...the whole solenoid I'm guessing? How do I know which one of these needs to be changed
Yes it's the solenoid on the rear of the engine. Use OEM solenoid only, aftermarkets fail shortly.
My car doesn’t have a check engine light on but it does leak from there. Do I still need to replace the switch or can I still reuse the old one?
You can reuse the sensor
Thanks
Will a 2004 Honda accord oil pressure sensor wiring fix a 2006 Honda Accord
It may work but just get the same year sensor
Same for K20?
Does it have oring?
No just the sealant
Do you just replace them when they go bad or is their a maintenance schedule?
Only replace when it fails.
@@MrRangerZr1 how to tell if switch is bad?
I replaced my Honda Element at 278k miles because it started to leak oil. No code
@@Scott-xq2dm no code as in low oil pressure? And the car won’t start ? I’m currently having my car start then die after 3-5 seconds on.
@@jeffrey7160 Low oil pressure warning light will display on the dashboard when the oil pressure switch is leaking, even though oil level is still full. I replaced the new oem switch around $25 and no more light.
An engine needs compression, fuel, and spark. In the correct amounts, and at the correct times. Which is missing when it dies? Start out with the basic, fuel pressure, spark etc… good luck. The car will start normal with low oil pressure light, leaking oil pressure switch.
Excellent, thank you.
Why do you need to replace a oil sensor? Can a low sensor tell a 97 honda crv not to start if the oil is too low?
They can go bad overtime just like any other electronic switch
My question is, I have a leak oil and look like is comin from sensor it is posible? Any help gonna apreciated.
Just remove the old sensor and reinstall with new sealant
Did you replace a new one? Or just put on a sealant?
Whether new or old, you need to use sealant.
When I hit 4k rpm. my car basically cuts out completely but stays running doesn't stall just cuts out badly. Could this be the cause? I cleaned my VTech screen. I need help.
If it's a 4 cylinder honda, then it could be a faulty vtec solenoid.
Hey, so I got the code "P2647, Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch (A) Circuit High Voltage/VTEC System Stuck On". I drive a 2011 Honda Civic Ex-L, and my check engine light has been coming on and off, But every time it comes on, my VSA light and my traction control light comes on. And sometimes when I accelerate, once I hit 3000 rpms, my car wont accelerate. Will replacing this fix my problem?
Not this, change your vtec solenoid. Your car is going into limp mode to avoid engine damage.
Nice video!! Is the sealant necessary, or can you replace it without the sealant?
It is necessary
@@Burn269 BS. K series do NOT call out a washer. Only Sealant.
@@JamesValentineBaja1000 Agreed. Engine diagram clearly shows no washer.
@@jonm1209 yup
@@MrRangerZr1what sealant do I use?
Was that a new one? If it works but leaks should I buy a new one?
The sealant can fail and cause leak. Remove old switch, apply new sealant and reinstall
How many pins are on that sensor? Trying to buy the correct one. There's like 3 or 4 on a 07 odyssey.
This CRV had one pin.
I have oil leaking onto the exhaust, could the oil pressure switch be why?
Could be, check the valve cover gasket.
the engine must be oil empty i guess to do the swap?? i saw not much oil coming off when he removed the switch from the engine
not really
That sensor is well above the level of the oil pan , I see zero reason to drain the oil as there's no reason it should start dumping out unless it's jacked up on an extreme angle but even then with how high above the pan that sensor is id still see that even being unlikely
Do we wait for the sealant to cure before installing it? or should i install the sensor right after i have my hondabond on it?
Right after you put the hondabond on
@@MrRangerZr1do you by any chance have to drain all the oil to do this job or will I be good doing it just like that ?
Do you need to add oil when putting the new switch i see oil came out when you toke the old switch out?
No need
So I have a 2002 civic ex.. I replaced the vvt solenoid but I got a code that says I need vvt oil pressure switch.
Is that the same thing I just switched out? Or is the oil pressure switch different?
Different switch. This video shows the oil pressure sender switch. I have videos on the vtec solenoid, there are on the v6 but same process.
can you use teflon tape to seal or no
no
No es Plomeria Animal es Mecanica 😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜😜
Dorman oil line crush washer at advanced works too. ID 10 OD 17mm.
How do you clean out the old honda bond or grey rtv out the hole lol
Very careful use a pick tool to clean
Thanks so much! And thanks for the link in the description to amazon
If leaking do do think you can just re seal? Also is that Honda bond ht sealant?
Yes
You can try resealing, but often the sensor will leak internally, and oil will come out the top where the electrical connector is.
Try smearing some RTV around the sensor where it threads into the engine, then watch for leaks. If the leak stops or slows, its probably leaking past the threads.
Stay gold.
Why did you replace it what symptoms did you have
My sensor was good. If it goes bad, your check engine light will come on and engine may go into limp mode
What code was it given to know that it is the oil pressure
Switch? I was given p2646 for the solenoid v tech valve(gasket) I replaced the gasket and the check engine came back again . I see no leaks .
What car?
@@MrRangerZr1 03 Honda Civic si hatchback. Is it because I need to change the oil ? It’s been about 3 months since I changed it .
@@xaviermunguia09 most likely the solenoid assembly just needs replacement
I happen to replace both and clear the code but after driving about 100miles check engine light comes back on..... any other fix for code p3497
This switch is different. The one you're talking about is this: th-cam.com/video/LaVfRT11uXg/w-d-xo.html
Check the oil level and condition.
Is this located under the driver or passenger side
passenger side
What thread sealant did you use
Hondabond
will it leak much oil when taking the switch out?
Not really
I have a pil leak under air filter on driver side of engine. Any idea on what woidl cause that?
what car
sorry. Lol. It is a 2012 honda civic ex 1.8l
@@Killmonize Could be valve cover gasket. Best to clean/degrease the engine and then see where the oil comes from.
@@MrRangerZr1 yah I did value cover gasket and the timing chain cover. I degreased engine. But it spooling up under filte. I removed air filter and tried to find area. I also did the plastic cover with gasket on it.on passenger side. I think it was a cam inspection plastic cover.
I figure out where it was coming from. The cam thrust o ring. Got to get a gasket abd replace.
Can I just use a Teflon Tape to seal it. Instead of the Hondabond HT
No use glue tape can come apart and block oil passages
Is this possible to do without removing the tire? Im sure just a lot more difficult that way
If you cut the wheel all the way to the right and don't mind getting dirty, maybe.
It takes 2 minutes to remove the tire. It makes much more sense.
@@hankk5468 thanks for your help a year ago
What year and make Honda are you putting this on
2007 crv
What year/model? Or are they generally in same location for all?
2007 CRV. Depends on the motor but generally located in the back of the motor.
It’s that 2005 Honda Civic ex?
No crv
I’m don’t know where the 2005 Honda Civic has that part
Is code P0522 for the lower sensor, the area where the oil filter is? I have a 2011 odyssey touring
Yes
Can't tell what side of the car that is
Passenger front. Trick it to look the brake caliper or suspension orientation.
Does it have to be oem or can it be O'Reilly's or Advanced Auto?
Must be OEM, link in description.
@@MrRangerZr1 ahhhh ok I installed the imports direct from O Rellies and so far so good. Their starter has been good for almost a year already. Have you ever replaced shocks on a 2004 CRV it looks annoying dealing with the seat.
@@mr.kenslifeshop4034 Shouldn't be too bad on the crv
@@MrRangerZr1 Yeah it was easy, not leaking anymore either.🙌🙌💪💪
if i remove the tire i should be able to get to it correct? was there anything else ypu removed?
No just the tire.
Your Forgetting the panels unless yours doesn’t have it
Which tire I have a Honda accord 09 ex 4 cyclinder. In need of help because I have this problem now and constantly have to buy oil🙄
@@MrEdgemoulic is this true because I have the black panel under mine🙄
@@gemini6902 passenger side. Mine had a black panel but car is an Odyssey 2011
Awesome video, thank you so much! Would something like high-temp permatex rtv silicone gasket work similar to the hondabond used in the video for the threads?
Would highly suggest using hondabond
Which side of the block is this on?
Passenger side
Why are oil pressure switches so prone to leaking? Are parts just poorly made these days.
It's the gasket/sealant that leaks
What car and what size engine? Thanks
2007 honda crv 2.4L i4
Did you have to remove the axle for this?
No
🤣😅😅🤣😂😅🤣😂
Yes
Is this located at front of the engine diver side?
passenger side
My Honda odyssey 09 leaks oil from there 😬
Which side is it on the camera view looks like passenger side ??
Yes
is this good for an 2010 odyssey J35A6?
video is on the k24 but same concept
Is it? Checking for my 2009 ex (j35a6)
Oil light blinking at low rpm
Did you use a 6 or 12 point for the 24mm?
6 point
@@MrRangerZr1 ok. Is a 12 point possible though? Not sure if one works better than the other.
@@sampatel-realtor 6 point is best
@@MrRangerZr1 ok.
@@MrRangerZr1 Got it If 12-point used accidentally do we need to revisit installation?
MrWhat year model is this?
2007 crv
Where is it located on a 2002 honda civic lx ?
In the rear of the block, near the firewall.
does the 2004-2008 tsx k24a2 have it?
Yes
@@MrRangerZr1 yes but is a different part and a different connector
Which engine is this?
k24
@@MrRangerZr1 ok
how you doing my question were you having problems ????
nah just leaking
did you fix it
if not i may know where you having the leak i’m having the same problem on my acura tsx 04 i allready change the vtec seal gasket but that did not fix the problem in the Vtec valve it self there is a solenoid i change O-ring on it but still oil leak i change the other O-ring in the vtec valve
@@rickxs619 check your valve cover gasket and cam plug seal really good for any seapage and leakage they both are quite common problem areas. I usually simply take brake or carb cleaner solvent soaked thoroughly onto a microfiber cloth to wipe away the grime and built up dirt, grease and leaking oil from the area I suspect a leak to be coming from then over the next few days, weeks or months all depending on how bad a seapage or leak you have you should be able to locate the failed gasket , o-ring or seal by routine inspections with a good work light to illuminate the trouble area very clearly , if the leak is coming from making its way over and or down to the belts at all this can throw many people off due to how the fan effect of the belts will almost always draw leaked oil and dirt build up off the cylinder head and or block and throw it all over the place in places that may then appear to be the culprit of the leak but actually are not as the spray effect of the belt throws off even experienced techs at times , I've been there , that's specifically one reason I can't stress enough importance of cleaning any entire area a leak is suspected and monitor that area daily or every other day at leak with a good like to catch and locate the true source of the leak while it's actually clearly viseable what and where the leak , but key is check for oil trails every other day at least to assure your leaking oil doesn't travel too far away from your trouble area and begin to throw you off all over again due to how large an area may be oil covered if you don't check regularly enough before this happens, if it happens , start over clean meticuloulsy and like I said monitor daily if not bi-daily minimum at least with a good light , youll find your leak. One last thing , on the top end hondas are notorious for leaking valve cover gaskets , cam plug seals and vtec solenoid or oil pressure sensor solenoid block o-ring leaks , but I just figured it is worth mentioning that in my 17 years I've been a professional hi level tech I've noticed on some honda motors it's all that unheard of on a higher mileage motor to actually develope and find an external oil leak usually more like a slow seapage though coming from the head gasket, now this doesn't mean your head gasket is "blown" it simply means your head gasket has developed a little oil seap or leak in between one of the oil passage ports and the surrounding outside most part of the gasket around the local oil port or passage , if you come across this I wouldn't honestly worry about it much at all as ive only seen a couple cars with this type of leak that also has a classically blown head gasket also but if this is your case the symptoms should be quite obvious almost in every case, which is by no means really a big deal on any 4cyl honda , as long as you don't warp the head beyond allowed tolerances repairable by having it cut at a machine shop then it's a fairly easy and if done yourself fairly inexpensive repair which hardly ever ends up being a death sentence for any such motor again as long as it has not been overheated beyond a level of disrepair or not being worth repairing or both. The old single cam D series engines , the H series , C series v-6's, and some J series motors from my experience are the most common honda motors I've seen head gasket failure upon more than any other of their series of motors, the classic long lived and quite historically epic B Series engines and the K20's/K24's from my experience usually end up only blowing a head gasket as a direct result of a cooling system failure, improper maintence or low coolant level etc... They both may almost always burn what most would consider a significant amount of oil even when new but hell honest I never worked on a Japanese 4cyl that didn't burn at least half a quart every 2500-3000 miles or so, especially nissans with the 4cyls they used over the years in their sentras and altimas, those things I've seen blue smoke puffin out the tailpipe simply while at idle speed with well under 100k on the motor, and same thing on just about every 89-97 b16, and 90-98 b18a1,a2, b1 , or b2 especially the first gen obd0 90-91 1.8 B18 non vtec motors in the usdm integra omg those things smoked like a dang two stroke dirt bike half the time , in fact if I seen one that didn't I'd be more worried there's something wrong with it lmao they'll still run for ever though, can kill those original obd0 and obd1 B-series motors , yeah the obd2 versions were tough sons of bitches as well but not in my experience quite of the same epic bullet proof reliability Ive seen in the obd0-obd1 B-series those damn things are without any doubt on my top 5 of all time most indestructible engines , hell I've seen many that had been horribly neglected and abused sail well over 300,000k and just keep going, even b16's that'd been imported from Japan swapped in and out of 5+ vehicles and revved to 9k rpm's all day every day burning oil like a son a bitch yet just again just simply never die. Another bullet proof unkillable motor def also In the top 5 of all time is the 88-98 4.0L I-6 that jeep used in the cherokee , grand cherokees and wranglers , worked on a few dozen over the years with well over 400,000 miles and never had nothing but standard tune ups and expected normal maintenance done to them , back when they ran the cash for clunkers program in like 2000 or so no matter how many gallons of govt made and provided acid liquid we'd dump into the motor after draining all the oil and coolant they would run for hours are full throttle, blown 1-2 rods through the side of the block and just keep on fucking running , I mean those things literally just simply would not die , never seen anything like it in my life. Seen a couple blow 2 rods out the front timing case cover and take off half the cam gear and still just wouldn't give up , unbelievable lol.
Do you have a video on replacing the Solenoid Gasket?
Which solenoid? Have some videos on my channel.
What color are those wires ?
Goran Kresevljak don’t recall it was covered in oil
@@MrRangerZr1 no problem was just curious if it wad blue and yellow
Is the 2013 crv also the same Location? Tnx
yes should be
Is there an o-ring in addition to the gasket maker?
no just the sealant
No sealant is needed. O-ring is still stuck when removing the switch if examined carefully.
How long should the sealant dry before I run the car?
I would let it dry overnight if possible, whatever the hondabond requires, which is about 4-5 hours.
Honda Dealership wants $215 - told my wife no way - i'll do it
Okay! That part I said the same thing when I called the dealership. That’s ok I’ll do it 😂🙌🏼🙌🏼👍🏼
Where is this. Did you take off the tire?
near firewall passenger side. yes.
How you know its damage?
Check engine light or oil light
How about on the Honda Accord 2017 where is it located at
Would u say it’s good to change after 50,000 miles
Of i remove the passenger tire i should be able to get to it ?
@@pikasoe6919
50k miles?
NO.
That's way too early. It's not a regular maintenance item.
No tools to go underneath, can i work from top?
Sometime you can but not in this case
You can go from up top at least on a 2008, you’d just have to take off the solenoid which isn’t too difficult. It’s definitely easier to go from below though.
That is the passenger side is my guess. 😮
yes as shown
@@MrRangerZr1 too late my unicorn of an engin, has expired.. so says a local auto shop. 😞
👍
Rsx?
Crv same motor
No they aren't , especially if it's a crv made after 07, they have a lot of interchangeable parts the k24's and k20's due to in most cases having the same bolt patterns on both manifolds , valve covers and oil pans and bell housings but the k20's especially the k20a2 and k20z3 are far far superior motors and way more refined when you take eaah for what they are in their stock or mildly modified state (bolt ons etc). Hell those k24's in the 02-14 or :15 crvs made what 165-175hp or something reasonably pathetic close to those numbers , the cylinder heads , and manifolds on the k24's are an absolute joke compared to what honda gave us from the factory on the k20a2's and Z3's , even if you do a mild build combining a k24 bottom end with higher compression pistons and a k20 cyl head and have it running on even a full tune it doesn't matter what you do to the k24's they'll simply never be as comfortable and well refined not to mention easily capable of revving to 8-9k rpms all day long without skipping a beat, can you do that to a stock bottom end k24 yeah but they simply aren't as comfortable at that high an rpm you can simply just even feel how much more out of balance the larger bottom ends are via the vibration patterns felt through the gas pedal and chassis while at very high rpms, rod to stroke ratio of the k20's and cyl head flow rates without even being ported are far far superior, even to that piece of shit they stuck in the 2012-2015 civic Si's , that motor was an utter joke to the k20z3 they replaced from the 2006-2011 civic Si's, , the k20 was 400cc's smaller yet still made the same amount of hp , actually the k20a2 from the 02-06 rsx type S made a fair amount more power than both the k24 from the '12-15 Si's and k20z3 from the 8th gen Si's , A2 made what 206 or 207hp bone stock and the k20z3 and '12-'15 k24 in the 9th gen Si's both made i believe what was it 195hp no? My biother has an '08 Si sedan that we just rebuild the tranny on with carbon syncros, he's got a decent header, good 2.5" full exhaust no cat obviously , short ram with a 3.5" diameter aluminum pipe, a lightweight flywheel , stage 2 clutch , skunk2 pro series intake manifold port matched with a 74mm throttle body and the top level hondata software and it made 233whp it's 5th dyno pull running on 93 octane with 10% ethanol , shit fuel basically. With cams , valve springs headstuds and high compression pistons it should easily see 250-260whp after a proper tune, and these aren't unheard of numbers by any means , most guys with similar setups end up making somewhere close to the same power level when tuned more or less. Biggest thing holding it back right now are the stock valve springs retainers and cams, I will be installing those mods and it will go back to the tuner after that but , that's not gonna be for another 18-24 months or so, shit aint cheap playing with these things
Just wondering if it leaks again can you just reuse the sensor? And try again?
You can reuse the sensor. Make sure the sensor itself is not leaking lol haven't seen that happen though but possibility