I installed this a couple of years ago on G29 pedals, but just recently started having issues with Gran Turismo Sport on the PS4 after a game update. The brake was getting activated without any pedal actuation, which caused all kinds of problems with various cars. After speaking with a Ricmotech rep, he instructed me to go in and cut off approximately one "loop", or 360 degrees of spring to lighten the tension slightly. I wound up cutting off only about 270 degrees worth from the end of the spring, and it seems to work fine again. Thanks for all the helpful videos!
Thank you Barry. I am planning on a major rig upgrade toward the end of the year, so you sold me on the idea of using this tweak as an interim step for a few months. I placed my order today,
I installed a tuning brake spring which is 59% stronger than standard spring and removed the rubber block. I then swapped the clutch spring to the accelerator and the brake spring to the clutch. I also fitted the 3d rap v3 improvement mod in the shifter. I was considering an upgrade but not any more as the difference these mods have made is astonishing, all for 40 quid, saving me hundreds!
works well i also did the spring swap & swapped the rubber bushing for thrustmaster t3pa-pro upgrade red bushing from Ricmotech. I have a LC on G29 & Thrustmaster. The G29 is very good times consistency improved on both. The G29 with LC is a winner & would take a direct drive wheel LC setup as your next step. GT Sport PS4
Great video,love how detailed you are. The disassembly parts might be my favourite parts of all your videos. I love seeing how things work. I’m a sim racing newbie but I have learned a lot from your videos. Thanks!!
I cut the rubber piece in half for my brake pedal. Works very well for me. I swapped the throttle pedal with the clutch pedal for a stiffer throttle. Most cars don't use a clutch anyway. Works very well.
Great Barry, I this is what I was looking for to upgrade my rig.👍and who doesn't like your video?!? You make the best entertainment for simracing on TH-cam, can't find any better. Big up👍😁
Hi thank you very much for pointing this out, just ordered it and it feels great far way better than before. Great analyze video and great kit. Keep on going with greetings from Switzerland ;-))
First I must say my name is Joseph. I’m using my girlfriends youtube because my phone was lost. I gotta say, I love your videos Barry. I love how in depth they are and I know whole heartedly that anything I purchase with regards to racing sim, that you’ll have a how to video that is quite informative. I just wanted to ask you a question about my particular situation. I just started to get into sim racing as seriously as I can afford lol. I own a PS4 Pro. And I bought Gran Turismo Sport and my favorite Assetto Corsa Competizione. I think that’s how it’s spelled. Not near my system at the moment. I recently purchased a GTomega apex wheel stand and also a Logitech G29 wheel set. I also got a GTEYE 3 spring set that I recently installed. And a magnetic paddle shifter assister from eBay. I love the new springs and the magnets. I’m definitely on a limited budget for the foreseeable future so I wanted to know your thoughts on purchasing the GTomega seat adapter and the Rs9 seat to go along with it. I’m a long way from being able to afford motion platforms etc, but I want to really get into racing simulation. I’ve taken Motorcycle racing corses in Oakland Ca. And did some NASCAR courses in Orlando Fl. And I’m dying to try the Skip Barber racing school in some regard. My budget for my upgrades at this moment are $500. And the GTomega seat and stand fit perfectly in that. Any thoughts?
Highly recommended is V3 of Ricmotech's LC27 load Cell conversion kit also compatible with the G923 have it 100% recommended for Logitech G Series owners
I have now a high end pro pedals but I had for many years the G27 pedals and they still a great kit and very moddable. Firstly I used the Perfect pedals mod thin the TSS Brake Mod....
Great video Berry, I've been considering this Ricmotech mod for my TM T3PA-Pro pedals. I think it would be a great investment. I race on Xbox in FORZA & plan to get into PC2 some time. I love DiRT RALLY but it doesn't recognize my TH8 H pattern shifter. Only wants a sequencial shift pattern 😥 Thanks for doing all this hard work for us Sim racing fans 👍👍
2 years late but dirt rally on PC supports h pattern. I actually use my own th8a in h pattern mode for older cars with non sequential gearbox like the subie Impreza or e30 evo
So far every time I think to myself I should find a review about X you already have a video on it. Really enjoyed the content. Do you ever sell stuff after you review it?
For those of you wondering there is also a Ricmotech load cell mod for Thrustmaster's pedal kits, whether you have the 2-pedal or 3-pedal setups. I have to imagine this review should mostly apply, minus the gross Logitech firmware issue. I've actually got that kit coming in the mail today for my T3PA-Pro pedals and I'm really excited for it! I would still love to see a review of that mod from SRG.
idk if they have changed this since the video but i have the G920 pedals and the brake is so hard to press i need a brake reducer lol i about flip the pedals trying to press the brakes
hi, sorry im late to the party but i have a question. I have a Logitech G920 and i play ACC on Xbox One. if i make this conversion, how do you calibrate your pedal in game? it seems there is no setting for it. Thanks
this seems way too much work, so i used alternatives by upgrading the springs to better springs with rubber sealers and works better!! will the load cells work on the gas pedal and the clutch pedal!?
I've just ordered one of these (V2) for my PS5 and G29 setup. At 29:30 you show a PC control screen. I am thinking that any adjustments are impossible for Playstation consoles. Please tell me I'm wrong. Have I just wasted money? EDIT: I went to 37.00, you explained it well. Great video by the way!
Could you just get rid of the rubber block and set up the deadzone in DiView to get rid of that agressive curve and have it more linear? Did anyone test this?
I think I may have broke mine as I removed the rubber block making really hard to use the peddle but when I put it back together the wheel doesn’t work anymore don’t know what I’ve done but not happy
DO you know if it is possible to get a potentionmeter wiht at longer travel. So it become possible to use the entire travel, when you take out the rubber piecefor the G29/g920, ore at least most of it.(A challenge mabe) if you used a 20k/OHM insted ore somthing ? Thanks for the great videos
I would love to see a review of the TrueBrake mod for the G29 pedals as well. I think it's a bit cheaper. It replaces the piston with some kind of dual spring system that is supposed to mimmic a load cell.
? would this div program work with out the load cell as i am now use to this peddle as such just thinking maybe getting that deadzone out would be better feel in its self
Quick question, i bought a cheap thurstmaster force feed back wheel and it felt notchy in the steerig. does the g29 feel notchy as well? or should i get a belt drive?
so when you were in 3-screen mode (non-console), what video card in your Gaming PC allows you to crank 3 screens? i assume those are 4K or 2K, but perhaps not, maybe they are just good ole 1920X1080 on a 1080Ti video card (nVidia)? Thanks for any help with this!!!
I actually prefer the G29 over Fanatec CSL. Maybe it's the lack of friction in the wheel and smaller wheel size, but it's much easier for me to react fast with G29. I'm not longing after load cell right now but I don't think that upgrade would be totally out of question either.
@@harrisonatkinson7595 the CSL LC pedals plus the Fanatec USB adapter you'd need would run you $230 US. That's quite a lot more than the $130 US it would cost to upgrade a set of Logitech pedals you already own (not to mention the savings over Fanatec's insane shipping costs if you happen to live in Canada as some of us do!)
@@johnsyeats2044 yeah that's true but the Logitech pedals also have 8-bit resolution I think? I think it'd be a worthy upgrade but I'd upgrade the wheel first
Barry, in pc2 i think that you can get rid of that bothering blurry effect of the helmet cam on the camera options(at least on pc). I love helmet cam motion but i eliminate the blurry effect and the helmet overlay to be able to watch the car's dash
Ricmotech says to remove the plastic caps, on the inside of both caps, if installing on G29 or G920 pedal set. Did you only remove the bottom one and leave the top in? Looks like it in the video. Great video!!
I wonder why nobody's using automotive electronic pedals for their DIY sim rigs, a lot of modern cars use electronic gas pedals, for example, and those can be bought new for under $30 made by Bosch
Hi Barry, great review. There's a lot of questions about the travel of the brake after this mod. Do you recommend this for Oval racing? Can I do something about the stiffness like use a softer rubber, or maybe drill a few holes in it?
Another mod you can do is make a hole on the side of the pedal casing for the power cable to come out of, instead of coming out the back so the cable wont bend when you put the pedals against a wall. thats what i did to mine when i was using them. not everyone as a sim rig.
Nice review Barry, I have had this mod for some time and it works just like I hoped. Small pointer, I doubt that you would notice any difference in iracing with diview adjustments since the calibration in iracing reads straight from the raw data and doesnt read the direct input from direct x. All the other titles you drove does though :)
Yeah, just trying something to help deal with that force curve. Shame Logitech went that way. It certainly doesn't accomplish what they say it does. Just more marketing tricks...sigh...
20spray1 It's a matter of taste, once the initial spring is compressed you are more or less hitting a brick wall and the force you apply on that wall translates into output. That being said, I like it like this. My problem is that my G27 pedals are modded with longer pedal arms than stock, so I get more travel but also less force needed to get the pedal to max out. And I want to be able to apply more force and modulate the brake, so I'll make an extra axle with cylindrical elastomers taking up most of the force applied.
I would like a more advanced set of pedals that I don't have to worry about doing this mod, can you give me a recommendation? Money is no object and thanks kindly.
Sorry to dig up such an old video for a question. I am considering doing this mod on my g27 brake pedal. Can you speak to the durability and reliability of this mod? I noticed that on the customer reviews on the Ricomtech site there were alleged instances of failure after only a month or two of usage and comments that Ricomtech support was lacking. This makes me hesitate to spend $130 on the load cell mod. Your input would be appreciated.
Good video and info, Cheers !! I have a quick question though.....If I do this upgrade to my G920, will it work on my Xbox One X with the Forza games, F1 games etc. etc. ??
I just ordered the parts together with a Leo Bodnar D-sub to usb conversion cable. Did you connect the paddles back to the steering wheel or through a conversion-cable?
Does DIView alter the actual firmware of the pedals / base? Or does it only keep those settings for the G920 Logitech software on the PC? What I’m asking is: if I do this calibration, will the settings be kept for the Xbox? Or is it only PC? Thanks for a great video. I always look forward to your in depth analysis.
Sim Racing Garage Damn! There’s no calibration for the G920 setup if it’s not in the game. I struggle with a few games that don’t have it. Thanks for the super fast reply and again. Thanks for the amazing content.
I am better able to look through turns. Also, the center monitor is only 23" away from my eyes. So there is more of a wrap around effect to this setup. Not for everyone though. And getting your ctr monitor this close may not be possible. Depending on the configuration of your rig.
It is tricky. I took it out a couple of times during the review process. Not too bad using a pair of electronics type long needle nose pliers. You can grab the velcro at different places and gently work it out while pressing on the the thick section of the cable where it enters the LC housing. Once that clears the hole, it's comes out easy.
@@simracinggarage3026 I had to use to potentiometer from the brake pedal to replace my throttles as even after cleaning it kept spiking. At least it's summer. I'll venture outside and gets some sun on me while I wait for my T3PA pedals to arrive. Thought of using the one from clutch and run a two pedal set up but that's just not sim racing. Cheers for the reply Barry.
Thank you very much for your reply. My concern was that too many kilos were required, if calibrating you can get off I'm fine, I just hope that doing so will not shorten the pedal stroke too much. Thanks for shedding light on this mod
I got G29 for several years but havn't have had time to evaluate a gearbox stick yet, have any body seen or heard about any one building one themself cause G29 and orobebly G920 has a 9pin Dsub connection for gearstick and if 2 are used for ground and +5V theres 7 signal pins free for real simple signals.
Jesus christ. I was looking for ways to make my g29 setup better so I didn't have to buy Fanatec, but at this price, I might as well go ahead with Fanatec. The LC upgrades cost the same except Fanatec is like 20 times better when it comes to quality and ecosystem.
Hey, Barry. Would you be able to compare this mod to the combination of the GTEYE + 3DRap mods? I've heard of a few people who use this combination and claim its the greatest thing ever. Thanks!
To be honest, until you start paying big money for pedals, the gas and clutch are not that much different. If the break pedal was fixed on these, they can last you a long time.
Great review, Barry. Did you get a chance to try this mod out with your heel and toe technique? I'm interested to know if its stiffness and reduced travel had any impact in terms of your ability to execute smooth shifts as normal.
Everything is amaizing, my only concern is... why are you breaking with your left foot??? You only use your left foot for clutch and break with the right foot. Pretty sure there are just a couple of maneuvers in which you require to break with your left. :( I had fait in you! hahaha
@@maarten3225 as a daily manual driver I can tell you it's a bad idea to make this an habit... track or not, the best solution is to use left for clutch, even in sequential cars I use right to brake, whats the purpose of braking and accelerate at the same time... jez even in formula Kart they tell you 10000times don't break and accel.
@@maarten3225 If the posibility of screwing up in an intense situation exists why would you leave a chance to do so? imagine having to fast react and hit both brakes and accel at the same time, you will end up colliding up front... also the left foot is not (or should not) be "trained" to be gentle, as with the clutch you have to go full on to gear unless you can feel the clutch cutting, anyway, if you get used to clutch pedal your left foot gets trained to press hard, and if you do brake with a left foot trained for clutch you will end up locking the brakes for sure :) but hey, don't believe me, I just drive a manual gear every day and do kart racing once in a while. But what do I know.
@@Noztra22It's a sim. Also not saying it's something you should do on the public road. Heck even F1 cars are meant to be driven with left foot braking.
Do you have any comments on the stiffness of the brake pedal? I've heard some reviewers say that its unusually stiff, but you mentioned it has a much more natural feel. What's your opinion on those who say the pedal is way too stiff?
It is stiffer than the stock configuration. By natural feel, I meant that the LC or any pressure sensitive brake pedal setup has a more natural feel when applying braking pressure to the pedal. And feeling how the car is responding. It's something you have to experience to truly understand I think.
Its a pretty pointless upgrade now. Rimotech mod is approx 190 CAD incl cheapest shipping. There is also duties as well but I'm not sure how much. You can buy the thrustmaster t-lcm for 300 CAD and get a much better built brake set without any modding work. The fanatec CSL LC are around 300 CAD too
Hello, I do not know English right but I still have doubts about this product, especially since it is a very expensive product, because my local currency is worth 4x less than the dollar, making it cost half a full and new G920 steering wheel . Is this product really worth it? For here I already use spring mod on the brake, by a spring that already does the work of getting heavier as the brake goes down. I have questions if I can use this adapter together: www.ricmotech.com/Bodnar_Cable_for_Logitech_Pedals_p/bod-pedcbl.htm For I intend to place Hall sensors on other pedals, such as accelerator and clutch. Does this all work together or not? I also use a Fanatec GT2 Porshe and I connect my G27 pedal directly to the Fanatec adapter and not via USB as I plan to do in the future. I have these kind of questions before buying and I accept ideas ideas that I can apply here. Thank you.
Wouldn’t switching the clutch and brake assemblies solve the problem of the ‘grabby’ potentiometer? Just swap the springs out, and remove the rubber stopper. Wouldn’t a quick fix like that give a less expensive, albeit looser response?
I think the brake curve is implemented in firmware, so switching the potentiometer itself would make no difference. And in my opinion the non-linear G29 brake is much better than the brake in G27. Compared to a load cell it will of course lose.
I use the TrueBrake mod which isn't a load cell but is functionally similar. Miles cheaper and probably just as good. Definitely made me faster and more consistent. Edit: cost me only £54
Without knowing the exact inner diameter of the pedal tube, there is a loadcell, which more than likely the one what is featured in the video. hu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Measurement-Specialties/FC2211-0000-0100-L?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvDU9HV27FC0bfgshpg3%252bR8evdx8Gaw3Yc= and with a Leo Bodnar loadcell amplifier, the whole project is cost around $70. If you want to go real DIY.
@@Sighman it's not quite as refined as a load cell, but you can modify/convert your current pedals to a pneumatic brake system for free/a few quid for some basic bits u might already have at home to improve the stock brake If you yt g29 pneumatic brake system youl find videos of it (don't wanna post links on someone else's video myself)
@@ash180287 Thanks for that. I'm sure the load cell upgrade is worth it for many people, but I'm just starting out and the cost is impossible to justify for me at this time. (Mind you, if it helps me outbrake the turn one nutters it might be worth it after all!)
Barry you`re like Bob Ross of simracing, your voice is relaxing and your videos are amazing to watch, I`ve never got bored watching them
Thanks for watching.
And we're gonna install a happy little load cell over here.
4 months later I I am sitting here watching this joking with my wife about the Bob Ross thing and scroll to the comments
I made this exact comment last night when I watched his review of the G920 lmao! great stuff here
i close my eyes and i see anderson cooper :)
Just did this mod. Worth every dollar. Also appreciated the idea to swap the springs around.
I'm so glad i found this channel. I watched your G29 and T300 reviews as well.
I installed this a couple of years ago on G29 pedals, but just recently started having issues with Gran Turismo Sport on the PS4 after a game update. The brake was getting activated without any pedal actuation, which caused all kinds of problems with various cars. After speaking with a Ricmotech rep, he instructed me to go in and cut off approximately one "loop", or 360 degrees of spring to lighten the tension slightly. I wound up cutting off only about 270 degrees worth from the end of the spring, and it seems to work fine again.
Thanks for all the helpful videos!
I don't have a racing wheel and don't even play video games but this guy's voice and video is so smooth I spent 40 minutes watching it. Haha
Thank you Barry. I am planning on a major rig upgrade toward the end of the year, so you sold me on the idea of using this tweak as an interim step for a few months. I placed my order today,
I installed a tuning brake spring which is 59% stronger than standard spring and removed the rubber block. I then swapped the clutch spring to the accelerator and the brake spring to the clutch. I also fitted the 3d rap v3 improvement mod in the shifter. I was considering an upgrade but not any more as the difference these mods have made is astonishing, all for 40 quid, saving me hundreds!
I got the Truebreak mod for G923 and its amazing. Basically gives you the same precision and feeling as a load cell at fraction the cost.
Thanks for the extensive tutorial. Got me really interested in that mod.
I love to buy one pre-installed. Didn't even have any luck on ebay. I found one preinstalled but it was an older model.
Thanks Barry, was literally pricing this last night after struggling at Richmond.
works well i also did the spring swap & swapped the rubber bushing for thrustmaster t3pa-pro upgrade red bushing from Ricmotech. I have a LC on G29 & Thrustmaster. The G29 is very good times consistency improved on both. The G29 with LC is a winner & would take a direct drive wheel LC setup as your next step. GT Sport PS4
Great video,love how detailed you are. The disassembly parts might be my favourite parts of all your videos. I love seeing how things work. I’m a sim racing newbie but I have learned a lot from your videos. Thanks!!
I cut the rubber piece in half for my brake pedal. Works very well for me.
I swapped the throttle pedal with the clutch pedal for a stiffer throttle. Most cars don't use a clutch anyway.
Works very well.
Great Barry, I this is what I was looking for to upgrade my rig.👍and who doesn't like your video?!? You make the best entertainment for simracing on TH-cam, can't find any better. Big up👍😁
this guy is a legend
Hi thank you very much for pointing this out, just ordered it and it feels great far way better than before. Great analyze video and great kit. Keep on going with greetings from Switzerland ;-))
First I must say my name is Joseph. I’m using my girlfriends youtube because my phone was lost. I gotta say, I love your videos Barry. I love how in depth they are and I know whole heartedly that anything I purchase with regards to racing sim, that you’ll have a how to video that is quite informative. I just wanted to ask you a question about my particular situation. I just started to get into sim racing as seriously as I can afford lol. I own a PS4 Pro. And I bought Gran Turismo Sport and my favorite Assetto Corsa Competizione. I think that’s how it’s spelled. Not near my system at the moment. I recently purchased a GTomega apex wheel stand and also a Logitech G29 wheel set. I also got a GTEYE 3 spring set that I recently installed. And a magnetic paddle shifter assister from eBay. I love the new springs and the magnets. I’m definitely on a limited budget for the foreseeable future so I wanted to know your thoughts on purchasing the GTomega seat adapter and the Rs9 seat to go along with it. I’m a long way from being able to afford motion platforms etc, but I want to really get into racing simulation. I’ve taken Motorcycle racing corses in Oakland Ca. And did some NASCAR courses in Orlando Fl. And I’m dying to try the Skip Barber racing school in some regard. My budget for my upgrades at this moment are $500. And the GTomega seat and stand fit perfectly in that. Any thoughts?
Highly recommended is V3 of Ricmotech's LC27 load Cell conversion kit also compatible with the G923 have it 100% recommended for Logitech G Series owners
Love your reviews, you deserve more subscribers.
Only person on youtube that can turn what should be a ten minute review into a 40 minute review.
Another thoroughly informative and entertaining video. Thanks Barry.
I have now a high end pro pedals but I had for many years the G27 pedals and they still a great kit and very moddable. Firstly I used the Perfect pedals mod thin the TSS Brake Mod....
Great video Berry, I've been considering this Ricmotech mod for my TM T3PA-Pro pedals. I think it would be a great investment. I race on Xbox in FORZA & plan to get into PC2 some time. I love DiRT RALLY but it doesn't recognize my TH8 H pattern shifter. Only wants a sequencial shift pattern 😥
Thanks for doing all this hard work for us Sim racing fans 👍👍
Rally cars are often built with sequential in real life. Makes shifting faster and more precise
2 years late but dirt rally on PC supports h pattern. I actually use my own th8a in h pattern mode for older cars with non sequential gearbox like the subie Impreza or e30 evo
So far every time I think to myself I should find a review about X you already have a video on it. Really enjoyed the content. Do you ever sell stuff after you review it?
For those of you wondering there is also a Ricmotech load cell mod for Thrustmaster's pedal kits, whether you have the 2-pedal or 3-pedal setups. I have to imagine this review should mostly apply, minus the gross Logitech firmware issue.
I've actually got that kit coming in the mail today for my T3PA-Pro pedals and I'm really excited for it! I would still love to see a review of that mod from SRG.
Man you are Awesome!
idk if they have changed this since the video but i have the G920 pedals and the brake is so hard to press i need a brake reducer lol i about flip the pedals trying to press the brakes
What is this sorcery?? This is the exact mod I was thinking to do next to my rig. Thank you for the upload!
@GlockWiseSB the use of magic
hi, sorry im late to the party but i have a question. I have a Logitech G920 and i play ACC on Xbox One. if i make this conversion, how do you calibrate your pedal in game? it seems there is no setting for it. Thanks
Good stuff. Thanks.
this seems way too much work, so i used alternatives by upgrading the springs to better springs with rubber sealers and works better!! will the load cells work on the gas pedal and the clutch pedal!?
Should I do this if the current brake pedal makes my chair move?
I cut the load cell simulator in half on my pedal. It works good enough for me. More travel, better feel.
You mean the rubber stopper?
Could u play a truck sim without problems or should u only play racing games with this brake
Genius! ordering now
Is this mod any use if using a g920 with xbox one? Or is it only for pc racing?
I've just ordered one of these (V2) for my PS5 and G29 setup.
At 29:30 you show a PC control screen. I am thinking that any adjustments are impossible for Playstation consoles.
Please tell me I'm wrong. Have I just wasted money?
EDIT: I went to 37.00, you explained it well. Great video by the way!
Could you just get rid of the rubber block and set up the deadzone in DiView to get rid of that agressive curve and have it more linear? Did anyone test this?
I think I may have broke mine as I removed the rubber block making really hard to use the peddle but when I put it back together the wheel doesn’t work anymore don’t know what I’ve done but not happy
DO you know if it is possible to get a potentionmeter wiht at longer travel. So it become possible to use the entire travel, when you take out the rubber piecefor the G29/g920, ore at least most of it.(A challenge mabe) if you used a 20k/OHM insted ore somthing ? Thanks for the great videos
Have you tried out the Ricmotech Load Cell Mod for the T3PA-PRO pedals?
I would love to see a review of the TrueBrake mod for the G29 pedals as well. I think it's a bit cheaper. It replaces the piston with some kind of dual spring system that is supposed to mimmic a load cell.
It's coming.
? would this div program work with out the load cell as i am now use to this peddle as such just thinking maybe getting that deadzone out would be better feel in its self
What is the best mod to do to the logitech G920 brakes
i just got the Leo Bodnar's Logitech USB Conversion Cable, should i do this upgrade next?
Quick question, i bought a cheap thurstmaster force feed back wheel and it felt notchy in the steerig. does the g29 feel notchy as well? or should i get a belt drive?
@@SooHooSamaSito so spring for a belt? Or does it make any difference?
@@SooHooSamaSito thanks
so when you were in 3-screen mode (non-console), what video card in your Gaming PC allows you to crank 3 screens? i assume those are 4K or 2K, but perhaps not, maybe they are just good ole 1920X1080 on a 1080Ti video card (nVidia)? Thanks for any help with this!!!
See video description for my computer and monitor details.
$130 mod for $250 wheel set is crazy price. No thanks
Buy a better wheel set with load cell or hydraulic pedals then.
I actually prefer the G29 over Fanatec CSL. Maybe it's the lack of friction in the wheel and smaller wheel size, but it's much easier for me to react fast with G29. I'm not longing after load cell right now but I don't think that upgrade would be totally out of question either.
You can just buy a CSL Elite pedal set for a bit more
@@harrisonatkinson7595 the CSL LC pedals plus the Fanatec USB adapter you'd need would run you $230 US. That's quite a lot more than the $130 US it would cost to upgrade a set of Logitech pedals you already own (not to mention the savings over Fanatec's insane shipping costs if you happen to live in Canada as some of us do!)
@@johnsyeats2044 yeah that's true but the Logitech pedals also have 8-bit resolution I think? I think it'd be a worthy upgrade but I'd upgrade the wheel first
Barry, in pc2 i think that you can get rid of that bothering blurry effect of the helmet cam on the camera options(at least on pc). I love helmet cam motion but i eliminate the blurry effect and the helmet overlay to be able to watch the car's dash
Yes, it's in the camera settings. Camera>Hood camera>Movement>Helmet Dept of Field=no. Just didn't change it during that session.
Ricmotech says to remove the plastic caps, on the inside of both caps, if installing on G29 or G920 pedal set. Did you only remove the bottom one and leave the top in? Looks like it in the video. Great video!!
I wonder why nobody's using automotive electronic pedals for their DIY sim rigs, a lot of modern cars use electronic gas pedals, for example, and those can be bought new for under $30 made by Bosch
Band-aid needed on the thumb after drilling? =)
Hello which steering do you think should I buy? Thrustmaster T150 Pro and Logitech G29
Hi Barry, great review. There's a lot of questions about the travel of the brake after this mod. Do you recommend this for Oval racing? Can I do something about the stiffness like use a softer rubber, or maybe drill a few holes in it?
Another mod you can do is make a hole on the side of the pedal casing for the power cable to come out of, instead of coming out the back so the cable wont bend when you put the pedals against a wall. thats what i did to mine when i was using them. not everyone as a sim rig.
Lex.... Can you show where that's done...thanks.
yea did you just drill a hole and route it out that way or anything specific?
@@mrabgefahrn9933 yes . Just open the case and make an opening. I used a round file.
Nice review Barry, I have had this mod for some time and it works just like I hoped. Small pointer, I doubt that you would notice any difference in iracing with diview adjustments since the calibration in iracing reads straight from the raw data and doesnt read the direct input from direct x. All the other titles you drove does though :)
All the other pc titles that is ;)
Yeah, just trying something to help deal with that force curve. Shame Logitech went that way. It certainly doesn't accomplish what they say it does. Just more marketing tricks...sigh...
Sim Racing Garage I couldn't agree more.
Does the brake pedal feel too stiff or just right in your opinion?
20spray1 It's a matter of taste, once the initial spring is compressed you are more or less hitting a brick wall and the force you apply on that wall translates into output. That being said, I like it like this. My problem is that my G27 pedals are modded with longer pedal arms than stock, so I get more travel but also less force needed to get the pedal to max out. And I want to be able to apply more force and modulate the brake, so I'll make an extra axle with cylindrical elastomers taking up most of the force applied.
I would like a more advanced set of pedals that I don't have to worry about doing this mod, can you give me a recommendation? Money is no object and thanks kindly.
Sorry to dig up such an old video for a question. I am considering doing this mod on my g27 brake pedal. Can you speak to the durability and reliability of this mod? I noticed that on the customer reviews on the Ricomtech site there were alleged instances of failure after only a month or two of usage and comments that Ricomtech support was lacking. This makes me hesitate to spend $130 on the load cell mod. Your input would be appreciated.
What mod would you (and the other guys in the comments) recommend? This one or truebrake V2?
do they sell these cheaper on black friday?
I feel a bit of vaste of money, Fanatec csl pedals are 230 euros with 12-16 bit resolution loadcell! That mutch better worth of me.
Hey, Barry, you seem to be the expert on all thing sim racing....Got a question, Can I use my old CSR elite pedals with the Logitech G29 wheel?
Good video and info, Cheers !!
I have a quick question though.....If I do this upgrade to my G920, will it work on my Xbox One X with the Forza games, F1 games etc. etc. ??
Awesome video! But how is your G29 so quiet, even in PC2. I've turned a lot of my settings down and it still rattles.
it's all about the mount. if you have a great mount, then it's all about the insides, which you will need to get into and find out what's rattling.
I just ordered the parts together with a Leo Bodnar D-sub to usb conversion cable. Did you connect the paddles back to the steering wheel or through a conversion-cable?
Does DIView alter the actual firmware of the pedals / base? Or does it only keep those settings for the G920 Logitech software on the PC? What I’m asking is: if I do this calibration, will the settings be kept for the Xbox? Or is it only PC?
Thanks for a great video. I always look forward to your in depth analysis.
DIview is only used on PC.
Sim Racing Garage Damn! There’s no calibration for the G920 setup if it’s not in the game. I struggle with a few games that don’t have it.
Thanks for the super fast reply and again. Thanks for the amazing content.
Great info. Could you tell me what angles your side screens are at? I just set up triple screens and was wondering what is the best angle to use.
60°
I have mine at 45, is there a advantage to going more?
I am better able to look through turns. Also, the center monitor is only 23" away from my eyes. So there is more of a wrap around effect to this setup. Not for everyone though. And getting your ctr monitor this close may not be possible. Depending
on the configuration of your rig.
It looks very stiff with the mod. Will it be less stiff compared to the stock pedal? I don’t like the stock feeling.
No, it will be stiffer. A very different feel from stock. Which I think is a good thing. Others may not agree.
Good review, very informative, thank you. But for me the price would be a no-go, as well as invalidating the warranty.
You can just drop $100 more and pick up Fanatecs csl elite pedals.
Looks like it will be very hard to remove the load cell back from the plastic housing, isn't it? Great review btw Barry, congrats!
It is tricky. I took it out a couple of times during the review process. Not too bad using a pair of electronics type long needle nose pliers. You can grab the velcro at different places and gently work it out while pressing on the the thick section of the cable where it enters the LC housing. Once that clears the hole, it's comes out easy.
Great, thanks Barry!
I stripped all screws on my g27, what can I do?
You will have to use a drill and extractor tool.
i’d prefer to buy clubsport v2 or csl elite
what software did you use to test the mod?
The travel distance was the same as the stock?
No, pedal travel is reduced significantly with the LC kit.
25:42 lol Barry you laugh of your own commentary. Make sure it's in the right hole.
The g29 brake pedals are pretty decent but can be better. The one I want is throttle pedal stiffer. If i use my racing shoes they are just too heavy
Would this still work if the pedals were positioned inverted?
Yes.
Great product while it works, about a year for me. Now I'm stuck with a dead pedal set.
You can always remove the LC and return the electronics to the original configuration if they are still good.
@@simracinggarage3026 I had to use to potentiometer from the brake pedal to replace my throttles as even after cleaning it kept spiking. At least it's summer. I'll venture outside and gets some sun on me while I wait for my T3PA pedals to arrive.
Thought of using the one from clutch and run a two pedal set up but that's just not sim racing. Cheers for the reply Barry.
Is it possible to configure the kg of force required or is the quantity fixed? Congratulations on your review
No, it is fixed and 35kg or so. You can calibrate in most games to set up how much force you want to use if less than 35kg.
Thank you very much for your reply. My concern was that too many kilos were required, if calibrating you can get off I'm fine, I just hope that doing so will not shorten the pedal stroke too much. Thanks for shedding light on this mod
I got G29 for several years but havn't have had time to evaluate a gearbox stick yet, have any body seen or heard about any one building one themself cause G29 and orobebly G920 has a 9pin Dsub connection for gearstick and if 2 are used for ground and +5V theres 7 signal pins free for real simple signals.
Jesus christ. I was looking for ways to make my g29 setup better so I didn't have to buy Fanatec, but at this price, I might as well go ahead with Fanatec. The LC upgrades cost the same except Fanatec is like 20 times better when it comes to quality and ecosystem.
Hey, Barry. Would you be able to compare this mod to the combination of the GTEYE + 3DRap mods? I've heard of a few people who use this combination and claim its the greatest thing ever. Thanks!
Would be interested
go with the 40%
Will this still work for console?
Yes
You could upgrade the feel of 1 pedal for $130 or just buy a better set of pedals for not much more. This upgrade should be like $50 max!
To be honest, until you start paying big money for pedals, the gas and clutch are not that much different. If the break pedal was fixed on these, they can last you a long time.
Its not the feel its the fact its loadcell. A loadcell set of pedals cheapest no mods is 240
Great review, Barry. Did you get a chance to try this mod out with your heel and toe technique? I'm interested to know if its stiffness and reduced travel had any impact in terms of your ability to execute smooth shifts as normal.
Everything is amaizing, my only concern is... why are you breaking with your left foot??? You only use your left foot for clutch and break with the right foot. Pretty sure there are just a couple of maneuvers in which you require to break with your left. :( I had fait in you! hahaha
Because it's faster on track. You can do it all the time on sequential cars. On manuals it's used less often.
@@maarten3225 as a daily manual driver I can tell you it's a bad idea to make this an habit... track or not, the best solution is to use left for clutch, even in sequential cars I use right to brake, whats the purpose of braking and accelerate at the same time... jez even in formula Kart they tell you 10000times don't break and accel.
@@Noztra22 You can go on the brakes faster than with your right foot. Doesn't mean accelerating and braking ay the same time.
@@maarten3225 If the posibility of screwing up in an intense situation exists why would you leave a chance to do so? imagine having to fast react and hit both brakes and accel at the same time, you will end up colliding up front... also the left foot is not (or should not) be "trained" to be gentle, as with the clutch you have to go full on to gear unless you can feel the clutch cutting, anyway, if you get used to clutch pedal your left foot gets trained to press hard, and if you do brake with a left foot trained for clutch you will end up locking the brakes for sure :) but hey, don't believe me, I just drive a manual gear every day and do kart racing once in a while. But what do I know.
@@Noztra22It's a sim. Also not saying it's something you should do on the public road. Heck even F1 cars are meant to be driven with left foot braking.
Your build blower from "amstudio" channel?
Do you have any comments on the stiffness of the brake pedal? I've heard some reviewers say that its unusually stiff, but you mentioned it has a much more natural feel. What's your opinion on those who say the pedal is way too stiff?
It is stiffer than the stock configuration. By natural feel, I meant that the LC or any pressure sensitive brake pedal setup has a more natural feel when applying braking pressure to the pedal. And feeling how the car is responding. It's something you have to experience to truly understand I think.
Sim Racing Garage I appreciate the reply. I think I will finally pull the trigger on this purchase. Thank you for the insightful review
I've been saying Rimotech for like 2 years
does this mod void the warranty?
yes
Welcome to Bob Ross, the joy of sim racing!
Its a pretty pointless upgrade now. Rimotech mod is approx 190 CAD incl cheapest shipping. There is also duties as well but I'm not sure how much. You can buy the thrustmaster t-lcm for 300 CAD and get a much better built brake set without any modding work. The fanatec CSL LC are around 300 CAD too
Will Zandvoort come back to F1?
Yes
Hello, I do not know English right but I still have doubts about this product, especially since it is a very expensive product, because my local currency is worth 4x less than the dollar, making it cost half a full and new G920 steering wheel .
Is this product really worth it? For here I already use spring mod on the brake, by a spring that already does the work of getting heavier as the brake goes down.
I have questions if I can use this adapter together: www.ricmotech.com/Bodnar_Cable_for_Logitech_Pedals_p/bod-pedcbl.htm
For I intend to place Hall sensors on other pedals, such as accelerator and clutch. Does this all work together or not?
I also use a Fanatec GT2 Porshe and I connect my G27 pedal directly to the Fanatec adapter and not via USB as I plan to do in the future.
I have these kind of questions before buying and I accept ideas ideas that I can apply here.
Thank you.
Wouldn’t switching the clutch and brake assemblies solve the problem of the ‘grabby’ potentiometer? Just swap the springs out, and remove the rubber stopper. Wouldn’t a quick fix like that give a less expensive, albeit looser response?
I think the brake curve is implemented in firmware, so switching the potentiometer itself would make no difference. And in my opinion the non-linear G29 brake is much better than the brake in G27. Compared to a load cell it will of course lose.
Damn, was about to buy this but $129.95
?!?!?!
It's a lot cheaper than spending 230 USD on a set of Fanatec CSL LC pedals and the USB adapter (or $600+ on a set of Heusinkveld Sprints etc)
save up 100 bucks and buy some decent pedals is what i would do.
@@johnsyeats2044 yeah but between actually having to buy the pedals and the upgrade kit you're spending ~$330 that's kinda ridiculous for a subpar rig
Wow, that is high for what you get., I was thinking 29.95, that would cover by 2 all the parts cost and allow them to mark it up 100 percent.
I use the TrueBrake mod which isn't a load cell but is functionally similar. Miles cheaper and probably just as good. Definitely made me faster and more consistent.
Edit: cost me only £54
LOGICHECK - YEP
Without knowing the exact inner diameter of the pedal tube, there is a loadcell, which more than likely the one what is featured in the video.
hu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Measurement-Specialties/FC2211-0000-0100-L?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvDU9HV27FC0bfgshpg3%252bR8evdx8Gaw3Yc=
and with a Leo Bodnar loadcell amplifier, the whole project is cost around $70. If you want to go real DIY.
$129.95 Wow.
That's quite a bit.
I guessed $100 at the start. Out of my price range (and I'm not good enough to require anything like this yet.)
@@Sighman it's not quite as refined as a load cell, but you can modify/convert your current pedals to a pneumatic brake system for free/a few quid for some basic bits u might already have at home to improve the stock brake
If you yt g29 pneumatic brake system youl find videos of it (don't wanna post links on someone else's video myself)
@@ash180287 Thanks for that. I'm sure the load cell upgrade is worth it for many people, but I'm just starting out and the cost is impossible to justify for me at this time. (Mind you, if it helps me outbrake the turn one nutters it might be worth it after all!)
I though it would be like $29...
@Rafael Ribeiro same here what do you think about the Tlcm