Citroen Saxo rear brakes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2016
- How to replace the rear brake shoes and brake cylinders on the back of a Citroen Saxo (and probably Peugeot 106).
This car is a 2000 1.4 Automatic, and the brake pedal was quite spongy, I knew that one front calliper could not be bled correctly as someone sheared off the bleed screw, however when checking the rear brakes they were in a bad state.
Its a reasonably easy car to work on, the rear drums contain the rear wheel bearings and hub so the hub nut does have to come off. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Great video lesson, just finished with replacing shoes, but stopped when assembling all back (didnot took foto), so your video helped to finish quite quickly. Thanks!!!
That is a very good video to learn a lot. Not like those videos from the manufactures where everything fits by itself..nothing is dirty and all screws coming out by themselfs. Thumps up...tanky you very much for this video.
Thanks for sharing, about to tackle this on my 106 when I get a dry day :)
Thanks to this guy I learned everything about my peugeot 406. I never thought I was gonna learn so fast watching a youtube video. Thanks for sharing your videos. I I never forget u!! My online teacher!
Thank you sir
Same problems as you on my 106 getting the brake line undone. Tried heat blow torch on the back of the cylinder which helped but had to use mole grips on one side. The allen bolts are 5mm allen but even with impact wrench these just rounded off. I used IRWIN bolt extractor which worked amazingly and just gripped the round outside surface of the allen bolt head. I replaced with hex bolts which will be much easier to remove if needed in the future.
Thanks for that. Will need to try out some of those irwin bolt extractors, do you find them to work well?
Its a wonder they didnt use hex bolts in the first place, or put a smidge of copper grease around the bolts just to stop them seizing into place.
I’m a bit late to the party, but i’m still keeping my Peugeot 106 going strong. Today I will try replacing both the brake shoes as well as the brake drums and cylinders. I watched this video a couple of times to get it memorized. I’ll post an update once I finished or failed. 😅
Great video! Saxo is great car! very useful tutorial how changing brake shoes and bleeding brake system! :)
Thanks for the comment, they are not a bad wee car still great fun to drive.
Great videos, I am thinking of investing in a 106 from my polo 6n1. Little tip for getting bolts off. Try automatic transmission fluid and acetone (50/50 mix). Works a lot better than wd-40.
Thanks for the tip will need to give it a try, ATF i have lying about, acetone is that paint stripper?
As for the polo to 106 id say go for it either that or a Saxo. They have their problem areas to watch out for but a good one is a bundle of fun to drive.
Doing this myself, do i need to balance the brakes after installation? Or are they self balancing? Thanks
Just one point. When cleaning the brake drum great care needs to be taken not to let any dust or debris get onto the bearing,not a good design by Citroen I think. I would tape off the centre of the drum before cleaning. On ford Vauxhall’s etc the drum comes off leaving the hub in place and protected. A small bit of debris in the bearing can wear it out very quickly.🧑🔬
It would have been nicer if there was a hub behind the drum, although i think a wee bit of brake dust might do minimal harm, but rust flakes would cause wear.
Great video, very clear! Thank you!
Thanks for the comment
You'll be pleased to know that the car (Y reg) just passed its MOT today! ...just! ;)
Well done on that, happy motoring
another great video! could you please display subs for longer? it's hard to keep up with them while watching you're doing.
Yep its sometimes just making the subtitles stay with the footage, the only thing i can suggest for this video as it is already up is the pause button although yes it can be a bit of a faff
Thanks for making a great real-world video on a dirty / rusty car. I am about to do the same job (shoes, drums, cylinders and bearings). I am a little nervous about fitting the new bearings - I have heard a good tip is to heat the drum (in the oven or with a blowtorch) and put the bearing in the freezer overnight, so the temperature difference helps with slotting the bearing in more easily. Also, I was wondering if you know whether the replacement bearings come as a sealed unit or whether they come as separate inner and outer bearings, like the ones that came out of the old drum.
Hi
Thanks for the comment, this was very much a real world car.
Yes the heating/cooling works so it does, although the parts here are not machined to such fine tolerances that thats really necessary, a quick press or even the correct use of a threaded bar and some sockets will press the bearing out of the drum relativley easily.
The bearings come as a sealed unit, they came apart on this car because of how the inner part stuck to the axle shaft.
Thanks for the reply. I might try the threaded bar method next time, or look for a secondhand tool kit, as this time I just went to a local garage and they pressed in both bearings for £10 each.
@@johnwalker7788
Ahy taking the parts to a garage with a press sometimes is a handy way to get it sorted quickly and safely
@@peugeotCitroen2CV what an absolute ripoff 😂
@@zeez9053 A ripoff in what regard?
If you put a broom etc. To hold the brake pedal half way to the floor, it prevents the loss of brake fluid. 😉
Only wery little will drop out.
Before removing the fittings that is.
@@holdXtoshoot A handy tip thanks for that
This works on most, if not all of car out there 2😉
I lost the drum dust cover think Mrs throw it out so found paint lid 5.5 cm works very well .
Haha that is a fantastic way to fix it
Great video. Unfortunately, my 106 didnt pass mandatory yearly checkup because difference in brakepower between rear left and right was to large. Garage opened the drums to check and told me cylinders were leaking, which was the cause. I told them I'm going to fix it myself, and this video will be very helpful. Since I only have to replace the cylinders, I don't have to bother with the different parts on the shoes right? Since that seems a bit complicated..
If changing the cylinders then do the shoes as well as false economy not to unless they are like new which they are probably not.
MPC007_EXP - Never do half a job. You'll thank yourself later for a good complete job. Beside if and when the cylinders leak everything will be contaminated with brake fluid, the result is RUST. ;-)
another helpful tutorial!
thanks
Can you tell me the exact size of the center drum nut? I only have up to 23mm and they are too small. You say its either 24 or 27 but I'd like to exactly when I'm getting a new tool for that.
MPC007_EXP
I cant remember exactly i just know i bought a few bigger sockets for these jobs rather than buying a full set. However after googling "citroen saxo rear hub nut" it seems most are 32mm for the rear. I have a 32mm socket.
MPC007_EXP 32 mm nut on my Peugeot 106 1.4 Quiksilver 1999 car. Drum brakes same as this.
Good job there, how did you adjust the handbrake, or did it need adjusting.
I dont believe it needed adjusting, i think from memory on this saxo the cables were adjusted to adjust the handbrake.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hi there, just wanted to add onto this comment. Did you touch the self-adjusters after installation at all, to set the distance between the brake shoes and drum? I didn't and I now need to press the pedal halfway to get the rear drum brakes to work, and when I try to move them with a screw driver they won't budge.
Nice video and all. But 2 constructive critiques. ;-)
1 - Subtitles are quite good, but way too fast.
2 - When bleeding brakes always use some hose to redirect the brake fluid to a container.
Spilling it everywhere will only lead to rust. No need for that, specially after putting brand new components. Washing afterwards reduce the problem, but is not a good solution.
Keep up the good work, thanks for sharing. :-)
Hi Thanks for the comment.
Yes sometimes the subtitles are too fast, i try to take the time to ensure they stay up for long enough but it does get difficult.
Its handy if there is a bit of tubing to hand to direct the old fluid away, but i seldom do have any spare. The metal the fluid goes down is all good thick metal which would take a long time before it rusted to a point where it would compromise the structure especially if the fluid is cleaned with the cleaner. However on a newer car with painted parts in this area it is of course much better to use a piece of tube as suggested.
Thankyou.
Good video but I wouldn’t recommend using wire cutters to hold the springs, you’ll weaken and potentially damage them where they will then snap. Use pliers etc.
I have found them to give a much better grip where other types of pliers would simply allow the spring to slip. On very old rusty springs they could potentially snap although new springs tend to be able to deal with this without any damage or distortion.
What is this gold you put on the screw and serving ?
That is copper grease, it is used to prevent the bolt from seizing due to rust.
I need to do this and i need to replace the drums aswell? How do i remove the wheel bearing? Just by hanmering it ?
Jonny the car guy
The wheel bearing is pressed into place, to do it properly you need a bearing puller/press cheaper ones that use s threaded bar are relatively inexpensive on ebay. Alternatively bring the drum and new bearing to a mechanic with a hydraulic press to have it installed. You may also be able to use the correct sizes of sockets to hammer one in and out although there is a risk of damaging the new bearing
peugeotCitroen2CV i have a bearing kit, i might aswell use it then
I thought that it might not be that pressed as a front wheel bearing thats why i asked
peugeotCitroen2CV is there a snap ring securing it inside the drum?, And is it the same bearing as the front one or its different?
The front wheel bearings are pressed into the hub but they have a circlip and usually require a larger hydraulic press, i tried the threaded bar type press on my old 607 hub and it stripped the threads.
The brake pipe unions on my 305 did not budge this easily!
No they would probably be much harder on a 305, though i really must say the 50-50 mix of acetone (nail varnish remover) and automatic transmission fluid does work quite well on brake pipe unions if allowed to work its way in over a couple of days.
very usefull!! thanks
Thanks for the comment
+peugeotCitroen2CV i also have a question for you if I may. I have the Peugeot 106 max the one that has 3 nuts on the wheels. So i wanna make the change to four nuts. If I change the drums for a sport model or a saxo or a ax gti for example.. Can it be done?
It all can be done yes, you can do anything really from getting an AX and converting it to a saxo VTS running gear and everything in between. The forums are the best places to go for guides but the AX, Saxo and 106 share quite a lot in common
Did no one recognize he installed the brake cylinders on the wrong side? Left on the right and right on the left. No big deal, but the bleeder valves are more difficult to access. Besides this break also the Peugeot 106 and Citroen AX are a pain in the ass to maintain, my opinion. 2cv is much better :)
I didnt even notice this myself, the brakes still worked, never noticed access to be an issue but a we’ll observed point.
The 2cv may be in some ways better, although £10k starting price for them. The AX, 106 and Saxo offer much better value for money at the moment and are possibly easier to live with day to day. Maintenance on them is quite simple.
Picco bello bv
Thanks for the comment
My rear hub seized today on my 106 and cant for the life of me get the nut off that holds front of drum on think its a 31-32mm
Is there a part of the nut that is indented into a groove on the stub axle? That will stop it turning loose.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV not that I remember but I will take the wheel off and have another look. What would cause drum to seize ? Is it possible to free drum up to drive to a garage
@@peugeotCitroen2CV yes there is a indentstion on the nut that is stopping it ,how do I get round this do I need a special tool
@@roostaraver
I had to deal with the indentation in this recent video
th-cam.com/video/YhXD4EAua7U/w-d-xo.html
1:25 and 3:19
A small chisel, or chisel screwdriver in behind the indentation will drive it back out. Always wear safety goggles just in case bits of the chisel or nut break off.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV brilliant bud, thanks so much I will watch your video I will give it a go in a few hours
140NM!!!! Are you kidding?????
Freddy Monrroy
Its whats in the Haynes manual and the dealer service instructions