I watched your video to see the strainer and gaskets. Out of 4 videos I saw no one seems to realize there is a gasket inside the strainer screw/housing. I was wondering where it went or if I needed it (as it is in the parts diagrams), but no one showed this in their videos. Thanks for being thorough. Liked and Subscribed :)
What is that little white L-shaped ruler at the 7:00 mark used for? I found one in the glove box of my new-to-me runabout, and have held onto it just because I figured it was specific to a watercraft or its engine somehow. Thanks
Hi Having some issues getting the power valve out of the top part of carb. It is not staked over nothing restricting it just wont come out if the bore. Any ideas. Thanks.
Hi, I have one of these carbs that I am trying to rebuild. The accelerator pump seems to be holding the two halves together. I am afraid to brute force it apart, is there something down in the accelerator pump that could be holding it together that I need to disassemble first? My engine is a Merc 3.0 140 4 cylinder but the carb looks exactly the same. Thanks in advance.
It's been a while and I no longer have the carb (or the boat) to check for you. Make sure you haven't forgotten any of the screws is the best I can offer.
There are adjustments for the float level that you make by bending the linkage arm and measuring the float height against the spec in the kit. When you have the kit instructions it's fairly obvious, but it lists about 30+ different applications, so I wasn't going to read the float height for each line.
hello everyone I need a little help, I have a problem with my carburator it keeps poring fuil in the chamber what's would it be the best way to fix the problem.
I have a 79 sun runner. it has the merchant just like this video. around 1500 rpms it smell rich and dies Everytime unless I push through it (full throttle) and pull it back again. it only does it under a load. I have had the carburator cleaned and put backed together. do I need a repair kit at this point or is this a different problem?
I would say that you should get a rebuild kit and rebuild it with new parts. Getting rich and dying after a full throttle pump could be a few different things (accel pump over enriching, float too high, valve seat/spring too weak to close the flow on time, etc). Start with a complete and fresh rebuild with the float and accel pmp linkages dialed in to spec and then see where you are.
@@robertangelacofieldduran1003 I figured that, I just don't know what you mean by "tighten up". Do you mean just attaching the choke to the carb or do you mean adjusting the tension of the choke coil on the butterflies?
@@robertangelacofieldduran1003 You need to make sure the tab connected to the butterflies (in the carb) is properly hooked into the coiled metal spring in the choke. You actually need to rotate the choke cover slightly as you install it.
did a rebuild fix your dead spot?i just got a boat myself and it will actually stall out at part throttle.idles great and 3/4 to full throttle its good also.have to play with throttle at half and its usable,thinking a carb problem for sure.im a ford tech of 25 years so this rebuild is pretty straight forward.let me know,thanks
@@vladkorzun I don't know if you ever resolved your issue or not, but this video did not go into checking to be sure passageways are clear. I ended up tearing back into my carb after watching another video and cleaning the accelerator pump passageways. This resolved my issues of bogging down at about 2000 to 2500. I could get to the higher RPMs, but I had to go slow and mess with my throttle to do it. Tomorrow I'm hitting a late to see if all my issues are finally resolved. No test like under power.
Hi Chris I have same exact carb that I need to rebuild hopping won't be 2 bad. I wanted to know what did you dip the carb into what's the liquid called mine it's pretty bad
Hi Elite - when I clean my carbs, i have a 2 step process... after completely disassembling when possible, the first step is that I soak it in a 1 gallon pail of Gunk carb parts cleaner. Depending on it's condition, I soak for 1-2 days and may brush it a couple of times during the soak. Then I put it in the ultrasonic cleaner with a diluted simple green mix. I only run that for 10 minutes or so. Then compressed air to blow everything out.
Nice video. I'm a impact driver nut myself. Best tool ever for breaking free painted over screws. Just wanted to know why you didn't take out the check ball, spring and T under the the venturi? Assume your's doesn't come with the check ball under the acc. pump. but some have one there also. Overall great video with nice editing to keep it very informative.
I only replaced the components that the rebuild kit that I mentioned came with. I suppose if the carb was still running rough afterwards I would have chased some of those other things down, but this rebuild took me 2 hours - and only that long because I let it soak in the carb cleaner. It ran great afterwards, so I didn't pursue it.
Before I get too old I would just once be able to rebuild a carb. Tried it on a honda 750 bike once.. complete failure. Now my Bayliner merc 3.0 is acting up, difficulty with start on hot engine and dieseling.
Mine is a 98 with the tiny stone filter at intake of fuel pump that is very difficult to access. I took that out and added an inline filter right next to the tank that has about triple the filter media, easy to see if fuel is flowing and much easier access.
If it's overflowing then there are only 2 things it could be - the needle/seat not sealing correctly or the float level tang not adjusted right. Good luck!
What make of Carb is that? Does Mercruiser make there own? I have an '89 Searay, 4.3 Liter Mercruiser and the carb looks the same but I don't know how to positively ID it to get the right parts for it.
+Ronald Jensen Hi Ron, They are marketed as MerCarb carburetors, so presumably, they were originally 'made' by Mercruiser. It wouldn't surprised me to find out that the castings were done by Rochester or a similar company, though. The rebuild kit part number I list is supposedly good for all Mercarb 2 barrels back to 1985, so it's a pretty good chance that it's the correct rebuild kit for your carb. Good luck!
Chris, since your video is only 10 min since you did a lot of FF'ing, do you have an actual time for the process?Since carb was already removed I don't need the removal time just the actual rebuild time. I'm in the business but can't afford to buy a Mercruiser book for every Merc to get all the flat rates times lol. I'm guessing about 45m-1hr rebuild/clean time? Thanks, good video.
Well, elapsed time was longer because I soaked it in cleaner and the ultrasonic, but if I had to do it again and ignored the soak times, I could do this in less than an hour.
what lead you to rebuilding the carb? was the engine hesitating and stalling on you? or you just knew better with today's gasoline? i'm having trouble with my 04 mercruiser 3.0 same carb. hesitating and stalling on me.
Hey man, appreciate your effort. But you left a lot of steps out for those of us that are trying to do this the first time...i needed to know where to set the float but you left that out and you showed it at wrong angle
I pretty much recorded every step I took. I didn't take apart the bellhousing, which is another step that you can take. As far as the float angle - not sure what you're talking about - the angle was correct (and worked perfectly upon re installation). Setting the float level happens after the float is installed and needs to be installed per the spec for your application. Perhaps your application required a dramatically different float level.
I had to put a dislike on this video. This is only a partial rebuild and cleaning. I followed this and discovered I had a torn accelerator pump cup washer. I am not a mechanic, but a computer tech. Seeing you stop where you did in your video helped me to decide to stop there as well. After all, I found the torn cup washer on the accelerator and since my accelerator pump had quit working I had obviously found the problem. Well of course I put my carb back together and the boat still is exhibiting the same behavior. After trying a few things with the timing and the ignition system I finally look down the throat of the carb to find that the accelerator pump still is not pumping streams of gas down the throat of the carb. I watched another video that was a complete tear down. I pulled my carb and while tearing it down paid close attention to the pathways that seemed to be for the accelerator. I found to holes in the body of the venturi that were where the gas from the accelerator shots out. These happened to be clogged. I was able to clear them and now the motor is running great! I wish I had watched the other video first. It was a thorough tear down, not just a partial. For a non-mechanic like myself, seeing the full rebuild helped me understand the workings of my carburetor and trouble shoot the entire problem I had. Calling this video "How to Rebuild..." is a bit of a joke, because it is so very incomplete.
Sorry you're disappointed. I'll refund everything you paid me for the video. Ha! I'm curious why you bothered reassembling if you had 'obviously found the problem'. If you actually followed my instructions and used the kit I referenced, you would have REPLACED the entire accelerator pump assembly - cup washer and all - just as I did in the video. You also didn't soak in the carb cleaner and then clean in an ultrasonic bath as I instructed because those steps have ALWAYS cleared all of the orifices in carb bodies that I have ever cleaned as long as the jets have been removed first.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts, I did replace the cup and all, but it turned out the issue was with a clogged passageway. What I am saying is the video does not show a complete. Had it I might have caught the other issue. I watched the video hoping to learn what to do rebuilding a carb. I came hoping to learn something. What I learned is watch more than one video because some times people leave out information. But I do appreciate the refund.
Thanks! Your video helped me figure out how the float and metal cage go together, after not noticing before taking it apart!
Glad it helped!
I watched your video to see the strainer and gaskets. Out of 4 videos I saw no one seems to realize there is a gasket inside the strainer screw/housing. I was wondering where it went or if I needed it (as it is in the parts diagrams), but no one showed this in their videos. Thanks for being thorough. Liked and Subscribed :)
Very nice!
You should make a video of putting it back on the boat and adjusting the RPM.
What is that little white L-shaped ruler at the 7:00 mark used for? I found one in the glove box of my new-to-me runabout, and have held onto it just because I figured it was specific to a watercraft or its engine somehow. Thanks
It's for measuring the float level. It comes with the kit.
Thanks Chris, helpful video 👍🏻😎
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Chris, I bought your bridgeport cnc conversion plans many years ago, I have still not done the conversion! I recognised the "Slideruleracer" name.
Cool, thanks!
Hi
Having some issues getting the power valve out of the top part of carb.
It is not staked over nothing restricting it just wont come out if the bore.
Any ideas.
Thanks.
Not sure why it would be stuck.. I'd try soaking the entire carb in a gallon pail of carb cleaner for a few days to see if it loosens up.
Hi! Do the throat linkage and the accelerator pump connect at all??
Hey man, appreciate your effort. But you left a lot of steps out for those of us that are trying to do this the first time....
Where did you get the spread sheet on the carb that’s in the corner of vid ?
It came with the rebuild kit.
Hi, I have one of these carbs that I am trying to rebuild. The accelerator pump seems to be holding the two halves together. I am afraid to brute force it apart, is there something down in the accelerator pump that could be holding it together that I need to disassemble first? My engine is a Merc 3.0 140 4 cylinder but the carb looks exactly the same. Thanks in advance.
It's been a while and I no longer have the carb (or the boat) to check for you. Make sure you haven't forgotten any of the screws is the best I can offer.
Hey Chris, my kit didn’t come with a spec sheet. Do you recall the float spec for the 4.3 mercruiser?
www.marineengine.com/parts/technical_information/sierra_18-7097.pdf
Nicely done, great job !
Yes and what did the rebuild kit say. As you do it and say mysterious adjustment.
There are adjustments for the float level that you make by bending the linkage arm and measuring the float height against the spec in the kit. When you have the kit instructions it's fairly obvious, but it lists about 30+ different applications, so I wasn't going to read the float height for each line.
Thank you this video was very helpful good job!!
Glad it was helpful!
hello everyone I need a little help, I have a problem with my carburator it keeps poring fuil in the chamber what's would it be the best way to fix the problem.
duramax4life float is stuck
hola que altura lleva la boya en mm
I have a 79 sun runner. it has the merchant just like this video. around 1500 rpms it smell rich and dies Everytime unless I push through it (full throttle) and pull it back again. it only does it under a load. I have had the carburator cleaned and put backed together. do I need a repair kit at this point or is this a different problem?
I would say that you should get a rebuild kit and rebuild it with new parts. Getting rich and dying after a full throttle pump could be a few different things (accel pump over enriching, float too high, valve seat/spring too weak to close the flow on time, etc). Start with a complete and fresh rebuild with the float and accel pmp linkages dialed in to spec and then see where you are.
how do you tighten up the choke?
Can you explain what you mean by "tighten up"?
It was supposed to be choke lol
@@robertangelacofieldduran1003 I figured that, I just don't know what you mean by "tighten up". Do you mean just attaching the choke to the carb or do you mean adjusting the tension of the choke coil on the butterflies?
The choke is hanging off the carb and I can't get to the screws to tighten it up to the carb
@@robertangelacofieldduran1003 You need to make sure the tab connected to the butterflies (in the carb) is properly hooked into the coiled metal spring in the choke. You actually need to rotate the choke cover slightly as you install it.
Awesome vid. I'm working on rebuilding mine right now. Let's Hope it solves the dead spot I have Between 2k and 2.5k rpm! Thank you!
did a rebuild fix your dead spot?i just got a boat myself and it will actually stall out at part throttle.idles great and 3/4 to full throttle its good also.have to play with throttle at half and its usable,thinking a carb problem for sure.im a ford tech of 25 years so this rebuild is pretty straight forward.let me know,thanks
rooster did rebuild fixed your problem? I have the same issue right now on my 3.0 mercruiser
@@vladkorzun I don't know if you ever resolved your issue or not, but this video did not go into checking to be sure passageways are clear. I ended up tearing back into my carb after watching another video and cleaning the accelerator pump passageways. This resolved my issues of bogging down at about 2000 to 2500. I could get to the higher RPMs, but I had to go slow and mess with my throttle to do it.
Tomorrow I'm hitting a late to see if all my issues are finally resolved. No test like under power.
@@TheQuietfiresnag thank you for reply, my issue was caused by wrong ignition timings, fixed it this summer, carb was working fine
Did you ever figure out what was causing the dead spot? I have the same issue.
Hello, greetings from Argentina.
Can tellme if are other carburetor that use same gasket? .In my country is really hard to find Mercarb brand.
I'm not sure
Hi Chris I have same exact carb that I need to rebuild hopping won't be 2 bad. I wanted to know what did you dip the carb into what's the liquid called mine it's pretty bad
Hi Elite - when I clean my carbs, i have a 2 step process... after completely disassembling when possible, the first step is that I soak it in a 1 gallon pail of Gunk carb parts cleaner. Depending on it's condition, I soak for 1-2 days and may brush it a couple of times during the soak. Then I put it in the ultrasonic cleaner with a diluted simple green mix. I only run that for 10 minutes or so. Then compressed air to blow everything out.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts awesome thank you
Nice video. I'm a impact driver nut myself. Best tool ever for breaking free painted over screws. Just wanted to know why you didn't take out the check ball, spring and T under the the venturi? Assume your's doesn't come with the check ball under the acc. pump. but some have one there also. Overall great video with nice editing to keep it very informative.
I only replaced the components that the rebuild kit that I mentioned came with. I suppose if the carb was still running rough afterwards I would have chased some of those other things down, but this rebuild took me 2 hours - and only that long because I let it soak in the carb cleaner. It ran great afterwards, so I didn't pursue it.
Before I get too old I would just once be able to rebuild a carb. Tried it on a honda 750 bike once.. complete failure. Now my Bayliner merc 3.0 is acting up, difficulty with start on hot engine and dieseling.
Now's your chance! Good luck!
I think this is a typo on the carb kit. Its 3302 not 3320.
3320 is definitely the one I used.
www.hardin-marine.com/p-30229-mercarb-2-barrel-carburetor-kit-3320-804844.aspx
What if there was debris in the filter ? What would u do ? There is some sand like debris in my filter .
Just clean it out. And make sure you replace the larger fuel filter in the boat if sand has managed to get past it.
Mine is a 98 with the tiny stone filter at intake of fuel pump that is very difficult to access. I took that out and added an inline filter right next to the tank that has about triple the filter media, easy to see if fuel is flowing and much easier access.
Sell the boat, dude.
Did you put both pieces of the carb or just the main body in the Chem Dip and ultrasonic cleaner?
I put whatever I could fit in there. I don't recall if the big half was fully submerged or not.
Helpful info thanks
There are so many different kits online which would you recommend?
The kit part is in the video description and shown on the video 10s in. You ought to watch it. ;-)
Can I send you my sae j1223 carb it's the same one? How much would you charge to rebuild it just like you did in the video
I would love to help you out, but my schedule is packed through at least the next several months.
Hi can u make a vids Please how to put it back on a boat and do adjustments plz
Sorry, I no longer have the boat or the carb.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts :(
Hi, im planning an rebuilding my 4.3 carburetor this spring. How many turns did your guide suggest for your mixture screw from bottom?
Sorry, I don't recall and I don't have that boat or carb kit instructions any longer.
Nice video. well I rebuild my carb and still have a over flowing I'm not sure what else to do someone please help ???
If it's overflowing then there are only 2 things it could be - the needle/seat not sealing correctly or the float level tang not adjusted right. Good luck!
The rebuild kit I just got included a spring with the needle value for that exact problem.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts OR you have too much fuel pressure.
where do i get the link to this kit rebuild parts
www.cpperformance.com/p-30229-mercarb-2-barrel-carburetor-kit-3320-804844.aspx
Ad. There should be a small ball that you’re missing during reassembly. Thanks
Are you talking about for the accelerator pump? The new ones don't have check valve balls anymore.
I watched vidio have to say very impressed
Thanks - hope it helps you out!
What make of Carb is that? Does Mercruiser make there own? I have an '89 Searay, 4.3 Liter Mercruiser and the carb looks the same but I don't know how to positively ID it to get the right parts for it.
+Ronald Jensen Hi Ron, They are marketed as MerCarb carburetors, so presumably, they were originally 'made' by Mercruiser. It wouldn't surprised me to find out that the castings were done by Rochester or a similar company, though. The rebuild kit part number I list is supposedly good for all Mercarb 2 barrels back to 1985, so it's a pretty good chance that it's the correct rebuild kit for your carb. Good luck!
It's just a Rochester
Hello, what size ultrasonic cleaner do you use please. Im going to purchase one. THNKS
I use the 2.5L cleaner from Harbor Freight. With a 20% off coupon, it's a great deal!
Chris, since your video is only 10 min since you did a lot of FF'ing, do you have an actual time for the process?Since carb was already removed I don't need the removal time just the actual rebuild time. I'm in the business but can't afford to buy a Mercruiser book for every Merc to get all the flat rates times lol. I'm guessing about 45m-1hr rebuild/clean time? Thanks, good video.
Well, elapsed time was longer because I soaked it in cleaner and the ultrasonic, but if I had to do it again and ignored the soak times, I could do this in less than an hour.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts thanks Chris!
I have the same carb. Can I send it to you?
Wish I had the bandwidth right now, but I'm afraid I can't.
where did u buy the rebuild kit
boatpartheadquarters.com
what lead you to rebuilding the carb? was the engine hesitating and stalling on you? or you just knew better with today's gasoline? i'm having trouble with my 04 mercruiser 3.0 same carb. hesitating and stalling on me.
Hey Chris-
What kit did you buy? Did yours come with a new float? I have a Mercruiser J1223. Thanks!
The kit is listed in the description and in the video itself
Hey man, appreciate your effort. But you left a lot of steps out for those of us that are trying to do this the first time...i needed to know where to set the float but you left that out and you showed it at wrong angle
I pretty much recorded every step I took. I didn't take apart the bellhousing, which is another step that you can take. As far as the float angle - not sure what you're talking about - the angle was correct (and worked perfectly upon re installation). Setting the float level happens after the float is installed and needs to be installed per the spec for your application. Perhaps your application required a dramatically different float level.
Spring goes inside filter
Too less details.. 😢 I can See, some Parts arent used, but thats Not clear which and why
The kit is a universal kit that applies to MANY places where this carburetor is used. Not all of them use exactly the same components.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts perfect.. That solves my Problem 😄👍
video not intended for a novice with a million questions
I had to put a dislike on this video. This is only a partial rebuild and cleaning. I followed this and discovered I had a torn accelerator pump cup washer. I am not a mechanic, but a computer tech. Seeing you stop where you did in your video helped me to decide to stop there as well. After all, I found the torn cup washer on the accelerator and since my accelerator pump had quit working I had obviously found the problem.
Well of course I put my carb back together and the boat still is exhibiting the same behavior. After trying a few things with the timing and the ignition system I finally look down the throat of the carb to find that the accelerator pump still is not pumping streams of gas down the throat of the carb.
I watched another video that was a complete tear down. I pulled my carb and while tearing it down paid close attention to the pathways that seemed to be for the accelerator. I found to holes in the body of the venturi that were where the gas from the accelerator shots out. These happened to be clogged. I was able to clear them and now the motor is running great!
I wish I had watched the other video first. It was a thorough tear down, not just a partial. For a non-mechanic like myself, seeing the full rebuild helped me understand the workings of my carburetor and trouble shoot the entire problem I had. Calling this video "How to Rebuild..." is a bit of a joke, because it is so very incomplete.
Sorry you're disappointed. I'll refund everything you paid me for the video. Ha! I'm curious why you bothered reassembling if you had 'obviously found the problem'. If you actually followed my instructions and used the kit I referenced, you would have REPLACED the entire accelerator pump assembly - cup washer and all - just as I did in the video. You also didn't soak in the carb cleaner and then clean in an ultrasonic bath as I instructed because those steps have ALWAYS cleared all of the orifices in carb bodies that I have ever cleaned as long as the jets have been removed first.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts, I did replace the cup and all, but it turned out the issue was with a clogged passageway. What I am saying is the video does not show a complete. Had it I might have caught the other issue. I watched the video hoping to learn what to do rebuilding a carb. I came hoping to learn something. What I learned is watch more than one video because some times people leave out information.
But I do appreciate the refund.
I know this is an old comment. But do you remember what video you watched that your preferred? I would like to watch both.
I know this video is like 7 yrs old, but I think you have two numbers transposed in that carb rebuild kit number. Should be 3302-804844 ?
Nope. 3320. www.boatpartheadquarters.com/Mercruiser-Carburetor-Kit-MerCarb-2-barrel-3320-80-p/glm-76086.htm
Where did you buy the gasket?
The part number for the kit is above in the video description.