Weaving Loom Restoration for a 1968 Leclerc Fanny Counterbalance: Part 1 // what would you do?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2024
- Let's begin a weaving loom restoration! I'm embarking on a massive loom restoration project and planning to sand my 1968 Leclerc Fanny counterbalance weaving loom back down to bare wood to refinish with Danish oil. How much is your time worth? What would you do with a loom like this?
00:00 Introduction
00:32 My 1968 Leclerc Fanny
01:42 Sectional Warp Beam
03:01 What does Leclerc Looms suggest?
04:12 Murphy's Oil Soap
04:46 Howard's Restor-A-Finish
05:15 Howard's Feed-N-Wax
06:02 Sanding off finish
08:58 Painting screws with rust paint
11:03 What is your time worth?
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I have been working on an old loom and a weaving friend who trained in Sweden suggested that I work on renovating it a bit at a time. This was superb advice. After each weaving project I work on another part of it. Maybe even just one treadle at a time or one shaft at a time.
She was trained to break down the loom after every project and then rebuild it from scratch each time.
I would probably wash the whole thing down and then use your loom. After each project, you can reward your loom with a spot of refinishing to one area. Then off you go to the next project and the next reward. In this way, you get to know each others idiosyncrasies and will discover what you need to work on or leave alone.
I thought the timing of this video was so serendipitous! I just bought a 41 year old loom myself as my first ever loom. I’ve never truly woven anything before beyond a plain weave on cardboard but I thought it’d be a great idea to buy an older used loom that hadn’t been cared for in a long time and take the whole thing apart.
I’m a week deep into this project and like you, have purchased all the things from the local hardware store. I’ve opted out of sanding my own loom, but I have cleaned all the wooden pieces and am using a beeswax polish on mine. My loom doesn’t have an oil varnish so I’ve read that the wax polish doesn’t make it sticky.
The metal screws, washers, nuts, etc are sitting in some vinegar and I’m planning to manually scrub them with a metal brush today.
My reed is rusted so I’m still using to figure out if it’s salvageable. But I completely sympathized with you! I’m sure this must be how people feel when they try to fix up vintage cars!
Best of luck to both of us!
Yea team girl
I would go for it! I bought a 25 year old loom (Harrisville 36” T6) last summer. The maple was amber and it the whole loom needed a bit TLC. My approach was to sand all the parts down with a hand sander and apply 3 coats of Polycrylic, with a fine sand between coats. I used Polycrylic because my research told me that it was the best non-yellowing finish, unlike the oil and shellac based finishes. I want to keep the blonde look as long as possible. Let me tell you….yes, it was a big job! I should have kept track of the hours, but it was several days worth of work spread out over a month. I wanted it to be over, but now I’m glad I did it! The loom came out looking new and pretty. Now it’s ready for the next leg of it’s life in it’s 2nd home. Yes, a LOT of tedious work, but the results will last for many, many years.
I was gifted a 70 year old neglected (sat in a basement in pieces for many years) JLHammett 4 shaft/4 treadle 36” loom, with no instructions to put it together and I had never even woven on a floor loom before that! The loom was filthy, rusted and did I mention completely apart? Well, I washed the whole thing down piece by piece with a scrub brush and Murphy’s oil soap, let it dry out for several days, then researched everywhere to figure out how to put it together. Luckily, most looms are built similarly, so I was able to figure it out. I found a blacksmith in Washington state that made the exact screw/bolts and nuts and washers to replace the ones that were missing, and I removed the old canvas covering on the back beam and inserted the dowels to make it a sectional beam. Then I washed and resewed the canvas for the front beam. I used rust remover to soak all the metal parts in and the reeds as well - I’m still working on those. The old ropes to hold the shafts were in good condition so I just washed and reused them. I oiled the whole thing with lemon oil as I put it together, but I still would like to find that Howard’s feed and wax product and condition it more! I thought about sanding the entire thing, but I really wanted to start weaving, so that’s what I did! It’s a great rug loom, just a little too big for me, but I’ve been having fun working with it! Eventually I’d like to buy an 8 shaft loom, and then I’ll take “Gail” (named for the previous owner) apart and refinish her. Until then, she looks great, she’s clean and she weaves really well! Good luck with your “new” old loom, I’ll be watching to see what you decide to do. Either way, it already looks beautiful!
One other comment to add - yes, the pieces will all have a different shade to them, unless there is a stain or bleach applied to make them all look the same. As far as I know, Leclerc uses sugar maple wood from Quebec, a beautiful hard wood that has a range of colours. Sometimes it will show hints of strawberry, hints of sage, and will vary in its its honey-coloured hues as well. Sunlight can also change the appearance a bit (think of hardwood floors where there was a rug, and then it was moved). Each tree had slightly different conditions, and each piece of wood from a tree will have its own nuance as well - I think that all of this adds lovely character to your loom :) I am going to put another plug in here for my method of finishing (buff lots with walnut oil, a little coconut oil, and then really warm and buff with beeswax), as this helps to bring out the best of each unique piece of wood. As I work through this method, it's a joy to see when hints of strawberry emerge that weren't there before I oiled and buffed. Having this curiousity in what the potential of each wood can be, when it has the opportunity to sing being oiled & buffed, makes all the time and effort oh so enjoyable.
I love your thought process on the restoration oft his loom. I sew but also restore 100+ year old sewing machines. I enjoy both processes equally. I initially do enough to get them going to test out then the decision to fully restore is based on how much I enjoy the tool itself measured up against its level of quality and its provenance. I recently acquired a Tools of the Trade loom and have been in a quandary of how much time I should invest in its restoration without even knowing how to weave yet so I’ve decided to apply the same principles… do as enough initially to get her going productively (clean, sand, repair or replace missing pieces, wax/oil, remove all rust from parts) then decide whether to go back and do a full restoration. I’ve spoken to weavers that have said it’s better to buy a new loom but they are also the type of people who have no knowledge nor desire to restore anything and only want to weave. I enjoy the entire process and I’m a believer that it’s so worth it to work with exquisite tools brought back to a productive life. I look forward to seeing where you take this loom :)
I absolutely love the loom and I’m so thankful that I took the time to restore it! Like you, I love the whole process ☺️ good luck with yours!!
I did a really similar project in March of 2020. The day the province was announcing restrictions, I went and picked up a truckload of sticks and metal from a friend. My 1965 or 66 Fanny loom was in worse shape though. Flooring had fallen on the right beater leg and broke it in two. The front upright was cracked at the same time. The cloth advance and both beams (and brake) were missing - swiped to complete the friend's loom. The reed was rusty and there was clearly a lot of moisture wherever it was stored so I had some rust and corrosion to deal with. With the thought in mind that it's a tool and modifications and repairs were legitimate care, I opted to sand / feed the spots that were rough that would affect the cloth. I repaired the beater leg and the front upright and it's held well. No signs of failure after a few projects. If that changes, I will fabricate or replace. Used the Murphy's oil soap, the Feed'N'Wax, etc. but otherwise left the wood alone. The reed and all the hardware I took care of with Evaporust. I bought what I could from the hardware store, ordered from Leclerc what I couldn't but I also made the 2 beams (bought the ends and brake from Leclerc) and made the cloth advance. I treated myself to all new heddles though. The new ones are so much more open and slightly different depth so there was some wonkiness in the threads at rest and in sheds with old and new mixed. Does the new wood match? Nope, not at all. It might eventually. I finished all of the new parts with Tung Oil because I was working on another project at the same time that used it and I had it in abundance! I tend to avoid Danish oil because the smell of it causes migraines for me. Tung oil and citrus cleaner sets me off less but it doesn't have the same hardeners in it that Danish oil does. Is that the same "best" route for you? I don't know. I will say that my project took about 3 months start to finish including waiting for parts from Quebec. I had more repair - if you go the sanding route though, I think you have more work.
I LOVE the variety of patinas that the various ages of woods some loom owners have allowed their looms to get as some pieces are replaced over the years.
What would I do? I would sand it all down, by hand. The orbital sander, no matter how careful, will inevitably leave marks and unintentionally sand over the edges. It has to be sanded down, slowly, by hand. Be sure to wear a respirator, even if outside, as the dust from the finishing and the wood dust is hard on the lungs, and may even be toxic. Once it is all sanded down, and excess dust blown off, I would rub it with walnut oil. The same walnut oil you get in the grocery store to make salad dressing. I would also work in a little coconut oil. Yup. Same natural food aisle here. Focus more on the walnut oil, with just the slightest bit of coconut oil, as it is a bit heavier. When you put it in, buff really hard so it warms up and melts into the wood. Put in a few light coats of oil over several days, and buff. These oils will help moisture and nourish and bring out the grain. Then, take beeswax (like a candle or a chunk of pure beeswax often found in candle making supply stores) and rub and buff until it is warm and melts in a bit. You can get a power buffer attachment for a drill here to help, but then that brings in fluffy bits. I find it is best done by hand. Make sure to buff it so it gets warm, and the wax will help seal the wood. This process is what I use to finish the fibre art tools that I make, as well as the furniture I make for my home. It is non-toxic, and long-lasting, as it can't scratch off the same as other finishes do. I think it wears the best over a long period of time. It does require a bit of maintenance - oiling and waxing every once in a while to keep the wood nourished (depends on your humidity, if in sunlight, etc.). Wood is one of these amazing things that is always moving, changing humidity, etc., and needs constant attention. It is full of character. All that being said, the loom works - it's totally fine to use it right now. Also - with the method I suggested - you can phase-in the finishing. Do a section this month, maybe another section next month. Except for the sanding, everything else can be done indoors as it doesn't pose a health threat the same way that some wood finishes do. Good luck! Looking forward to seeing how it all pans out for you :)
I second all of this with the mention that linseed oil is also a good option and can sometimes be cheaper than walnut oil.
Thank you so much for your suggestions Helen! Your walnut oil recommendation opened up a whole world of options for me. And thank you for the reminder to mask up for sanding. That’s so important. Can’t wait to share what I’ve done so far… ☺️
Well like many others on this thread, I am in exactly the same spot as you. I have the same loom, approximately the same age, but mine is in worse shape with some water damage. Mechanically it works just fine. I could leave it as is but would prefer to try to return it to it’s former beauty. My strategy: I am going to try to take off the treadles first if I can, and test my process. I have bought two products, both from Minwax. Antique furniture Refinisher (gently dissolves old finish without stripping) and PolyShade (Stain & Polyurethane in 1 step). I will test my process this week and let you know how it goes. You caught my attention with your first vlog about this loom and the thought of refinishing.
Taking them all apart is SO worth it. I've done two, a Union 36 and a Norwood Cherry Wood. Neither one is made anymore, so they had to be taken apart and cleaned, and some parts remade by me. Fergus and Nessie are so much happier to be in my studio than in the barns they were in.
I love how old wood tells a story, so I probably would just clean and condition the wood. Part of the charm of used equipment is knowing that many hands touched these tools and used them over and over and created so much with them. I think that maintenance and care is important, but I don't think a complete refinish job would be necessary. Excited to follow along on this journey with you!
The most important question you have to ask yourself is if you have the time to do it? If you want to sand it down to original colour and redo the finish/ Why not just buy a new Fanny loom? The gold colour gives it character. The scratches, dings and dents all have history. As a loom restorer, if bolts and screws or any metal parts on a loom are rusty, I replace. Just this little thing really spruces up the loom. What do you want to do? Woodworking or weaving? Scrub the loom, "finish" with danish oil and start weaving on the loom.
I did this very thing 10 years ago with a 27" Fanny from the 50s. I just used a lot of Murphy's Soap, and cleaned up or replaced the rusty bits. The reed was completely rusty, so that had to go. Replaced with stainless steel reeds from then on. Have fun with this! It never saw sandpaper, btw.
I just bought a used Nilus LeClerc floor loom and found your video. The woman I bought it from had never learned to use it, her husband bought it on a whim and it's been in their basement for years, so it needs a good cleaning. I will not be stripping it down & refinishing, but if you decide to go that route I'm sure it will look great when it's done.
I’m really excited for this series of videos because I have a floor loom and table loom that need restoration.
For now, I think I’d wash it down and de-gunk it. Then I’d use it for a while and re-evaluate after I had a feel for the loom. You can always do a full refinish or whatever else you’d like to do later.
I would give it a wash and start using it. Let the new part start to age and have it's own story for the future.
Just clean it and with a light hand repair the finish as needed. Don't over do it. You don't want to take away the character and charm that tells the story of the life of the loom. It does not matter that the wood does not match in color. It wont take long at all for it to blend together on its own. It is okay for new parts bolted on to look new. Don't go down the rabbit hole, the purpose of the loom is to weave on it. Please don't replace the bolts, again, they are all a part of the story of the life of the loom. Let the bolts be dark. As long as they are not covered in rust they are fine. If they are rusty, go get evaporust from harbor freight (or whatever canadian version you have) and let them soak for half an hour, rinse and done. You said it in a nutshell. If you wanted a new loom you would have bought a new loom.
Sanding sponges come in very fine grades. I would suggest one that is already worn a bit. You can get a very fine smooth feel an maybe it won't take off too much color. Use the slightly courser sponge for rougher or blacker areas. The wood will darken again over time. You could experiment with Minwax wiping varnish to see if you like the amber color. No brush needed. Sanding sponge between coats. You could do more later or a little at a time. Doing watco oil and wiping varnish would be a big time consuming job. I have done it on trim moldings on cherry. Experiment on similar wood. Perhaps if you decided on that route, you could do all the oil finish, and just the hard to get at parts with the wiping varnish, then over time wipe the rest till you get it all covered. I used just wiping varnish on a little Dorset loom and it looks great. Maybe that's all you need for a finish. I used 5 or six coats and 7 or so on the breast beam. I could go over it again on worn places. You may not need the oil finish at all. I agree with the functional approach but looking cleaned and smooth and easy to clean will be enjoyable. You don't want to take forever though. As important or more important is how well it works mechanically. Allow time to get it working smoothly and balanced right. Camilla Valley you probably know has parts and old manuals. Good luck. JH
What an interesting project to have for the summer! LOL. If the loom is already assembled and I have not woven on it, I would do a project first to make sure I like it enough to do a very time consuming restore. I can hear it in your voice that this is daunting... I did my armoire finishing and the one tool that helped me a lot was a block of wood that held the sandpaper in place... a friend made that tool for me but I think you can get it at a hardware store. I also used a waterbased finish because it meant I could use soap and water to clean up. I would not use a finish that requires monthly application... that just seems too much work....
I hadn't as much as seen a handloom since I stopped weaving in the mid-1980s. By chance, about three years ago, I happened across a pic of a dilapidated Fanny standing pieced together loosely in the garage of a couple who gathered up the broken down pieces, grimmy and rusted, there were 1,200 heddles sort of rusted together and the bolts were too. I grabbed it for $100.00 and spent the next two years stripping the wood, fine sanding it, and gave each of the 54, I think it was 54, pieces of wood 9 coats of Tung Oil, rubbing out each coat and letting it dry hard before applying the next coat. A chemist buddy of mine told me how to remove the rust and to my amazement, it worked. I added a shed regulator. I'm an avid spinner. I only weave with homespun yarn, and either hemp or linen when I'm weaving weft face rugs. Currently I'm winding on 40 yards to weave panels for a twill drapes. The window is 8' x 20'. So the total width, because I want deep folds, will be 8' x 40'. I'm 77. I'm so glad I discovered this wonderful 4 harness loom. Keeps me very nicely busy ordering chaos. Your vids are wonderful!
What a beautiful rescue story!! I love that you know how many pieces there are to the loom and that you so carefully applied finish and let them all cure in between coats. The loom must be in wonderful shape. What a happy story! Thanks for sharing ☺️
Thank you so much. If there's a way, I'll send you a photo of the wall to wall drapes, verticle stripes, hand-dyed colors, in rose-path once they're hung. That will be around the Christmas holidays. Here's a tip. I use 8 gallon home-brew electric mash pots for dyeing. They thermostatically control temperature. I can dye about 3 pounds of woolen yarn each batch. And they have a spiket that faciliatates draining. These boilers are available from local home brew supply shops.
Love the process
i have a ‘78 60” fanny loom that my partner & i restored. i did fully sand the loom to bare wood and used several coats of danish oil to finish.
for my next loom restoration i used a cabinet scrapper (a thin flexible sharpened rectangle of steel), produces very little dust, mostly small curls of finish, a much cleaner process.
the danish oil produced a lovely amber colour and really shows off the lovely grain patterns in the maple. however it is a very different colour than the new handle and sectional beam pieces. that may be an issue if matching is important for you. if so, look at the line of finishes from a company called osmo, lee valley carries it. i can post pictures in sos so you can see the possibilities.
YES!!! I’ve become enamoured with the Osmo idea and already bought a tin. Can’t wait to try it out!! Glad to hear about your restoration too… I’m thrilled hearing all these stories! 🤩
Following! I am also restoring a Leclerc Fanny from a home where it got no love for at least 5+ years. It’s a 1980 and there are some cracks in the wood here and there that make me think i should reseal things. Making all those decisions is hard, and your experience is very educational. Thanks for sharing!
If you decide to disassemble film so you can use it as a reference to reassemble. Grab craft paper or something to tape the nuts bolts etc onto (painters tape) and label the parts - where they went, what order they came out …I understand the dilemma. Given your busy schedule a good scrub and conditioning would seem to be the way to go, but there is something about a renewed tool that is wonderful. Good luck.
you can put the sectional beam on first and do a project. If you can't stand having different colours...then that time worth because you will enjoy the process more. I mean, you are gonna spend a lot of time with it so it's has to be pleasing to your eyes some how.
I just received an old Leclerc Dorothy that needs some TLC (and probably some new parts). Thank you for this video! Having refurbed some other old "treasures", it is satisfying but a labour of love for sure! Good luck, whatever you choose to do!
Look how nice the treadles that you have sanded are - it will definitely be worth doing the whole loom, and how satisfying when it is complete. You have other looms, so you can take your time and enjoy the process!
I’m a huge fan of mid century design and furniture so I love that vintage golden. I hang out on MCM furniture restoration groups where people talk about bringing that color back after they undo someone’s paint job. I personally would clean, put the repair on and get to making the things whilst thinking about the original users. We own a 1970 Airstream trailer and it’s like a little time capsule. We’ve replaced things for function but the majority is still original and we love that.
I did it to my 40 year old loom. I sanded it all and applied danish oil. No regrets, the smooth wood is so lovely to touch and it sort of glows now. Took a couple of weeks to do, did 3 coats of oil (not very thick), with just the minimum hours between coats that the directions on the tin suggested. I did orbital sand the large pieces, then sanded by hand twice more with finer grit each time. Only orbital sand flat areas, not curved corners, do them by hand. Good luck!
I am re-cording an AJ Ahrens floor loom from the 50s. I value the character of the loom as it has aged. I will be anxious to see how you proceed. As a new weaver the experience of really getting to know my loom has been a benefit. Clean is important to me. New I could buy.
When the surface feels "tacky" or "sticky", as you described, it's because the coating itself has failed/dried out. If the places with the failed varnish/coating are also places where the threads "interact" (the back beam, for example) or where you are hands on (like the beater) then I would say you'd need to take off the old finish and redo those bits. I would also have someone else who does this frequently do it, because they would be set up to do it quickly and safely (refinishing/ventilation issues).
The golden color of some part of your loom is the result of an oil varnish aging reaction.
I completely understand the urge to get this loom restoration done fast. but if it was me, I'd go through, sand it all down and refinish the wood. the older it gets, the dryer the wood will get also. it needs a new bath in oils every few decades to keep the wood in a quality that will make it last. its like all those really old spinning wheels you see that are heirlooms, but never got looked after so they're cracking, parts falling apart, other parts warping etc. Yes its a tool, no it doesn't need to look like fine furniture, but your tools need to be taken care of too.
I have a LeClerc Artisat, it's my first floor loom. Putting it together and cleaning it up helped me learn about it, but not as much as weaving with it has. I'd get to know it by using it before you give it a big overhaul. I hope to one day refinish mine. Lots of excellent tips in the comments here.
Funny how you brought up old cars! I’ve restored my 1970 corvette to original standards, so I get how dealing with screw restoration is a thing! You might check out Eastwood products for metal restoration products. That wat you can retain the original bolt head markings and original nut styles etc…. Do it right! 💙
I would love to disassemble my 1970's Norwood and refinish it.
She's pretty sticky, and just a bit wobbly. The beater bar is a little warped, so my fabric doesn't always come out perfectly square. I have wondered if I took her all the way apart and replaced some of the hardware if she would be a happier loom. I look forward to joining you in Loom refurbishment!
Arrange for a one afternoon course/workshop/event and go through the construction/ build of a loom.
Charge very little and have free coffee. Let all participants each sand down one or two pieces of the loom.
Hold a weave along when the project is finnished. Invite all who participated.
Or contact a school and see if some of the students would like to be part of this project.
Good luck 😍
Here’s what I did when faced with a similar problem, although this was a 100 year old church pew. I’d dint want to erase its character, so on the “sticky parts” I used 0000 steel wool with a light touch, just till the sticky was gone, then I wiped to whole thing down with a refinished close to your product, and called it good. The wood is now sealed, it’s clean, and I’m happy.
It's a journey you will have to experience.
It needed to be cleaned and the sectional is new. Yet, I love seeing the changes of time. The coloring is a way of telling it's storyline. The sectionals are different, the loom is old, but it's difference in color is its time lines of events. I know that you are torn but you will do a great job no matter what.
Yes!! The colour change is part of the story of the loom! I love that about this loom. It’s the same reason I don’t want to artificially add a colour by staining it 😆 thanks for your encouragement!
@@sweetgeorgia on Instagram, By Jane's Daughter... I will PM you some pictures of my grandma's loom
You're so right. Tools are meant to be workhorses and not look precious and pretty in the corner. However, well cared for tools last longer and give us so much joy when using them. I would go for degreasing and cleaning the loom but not get hung up on refinishing the screws and things. Good luck!
I’m the future, if you do ever take something all apart, for those tiny pieces, screws etc, take a piece of paper or cardboard and use packing tape to affix it to the paper. Then write underneath the spot that it goes. Keeps things straight:)
I love watching your videos! I'm torn about this project, but mostly because I am lazy and seek instant gratification. This project you're proposing would be immensely satisfying. I hope you do go through with the more ambitious plan. As you said, a loom is a workhorse, but it is also a significant presence in your workroom. A clean and well cared for loom would be a pleasure to work with. I traded for a LeClerc tabletop Meca and it never occurred to me to do more than a cursory wipe down and change out of the heddles. Your video has me rethinking that. Looking forward to your progress!
Such a good reminder… thanks!! It’s true, having a fully CLEAN loom would be sooo satisfying and feel comfortable to have in our home. Thanks for watching! 💗
Oh, man. I found this by searching for "leclerc fanny". I just inherited one from the mid-1950s. I am 100% not refinishing this thing. It is the size of a piano. I do not have piano-refinishing time. I literally used some furniture polish on it earlier.
It's been in a very nice garage for about 30 years.
For sure!! If it’s been well preserved, it should be great to just lightly refresh it without fully refinishing. Looking back, I can’t believe I did all that work hahaha I love it, but holy it was a big job 🤣
I would clean it up very well and then starting weaving on it! If the wood is fed and healthy and clean, the loom will be happy. It can be itself and wear its age with pride, golden color and all. I think the loom will be happier (and you, too!) fulfilling its purpose of weaving cloth than it would be if it were sanded and stripped down and eventually turned into something different/new.
I use the steel wool + furniture cleaner combination on my wooden kitchen counter, and then I re-oil it. It works very well. Since you have the possibility of doing that, why not try that first? Then you can work on the loom for a while, and if you find you want to sand it down and refinish it, you can always take it apart later. I admit I always go for the simpler solution (I have chronic fatigue, so I really have to if I want to remain functional). Also, I hate sanding, so there's no way I would sand down something as big as a loom!
When I bought my 30+ year loom I bought new screws to replace those that were stripped, I washed it all down and sanded some spots. I think the restoration can turn into it's own "hobby" which will then get you to your intended use of it. But you'll have to dedicate time either each night or several nights a week to see it move forward. And for sure us the electric sander to make it go quicker, just use a lower grit as it removes more sealant than you think :)
You have taken on a huge project! I've been looking into refinishing a lot of different kinds of wood furniture and cabinets myself. There's a lot to understand. You need a degreaser for the cleaning solution to wash it thoroughly. Then you need to decide what finish you'll use. Oil based is why it yellowed in the first place, but that doeeesn't make it a bad choice. Odies Oil products are a very healthy and natural product to check into, because oil based products have a lot of fumes and you don't want to breath that. Be careful with an orbital sander - if you push too hard it can make orbital swirls. Hand sanding takes forever but It works fine. You should research about sand paper to use too. Too low a number grit will dig in too deep. But it's not the higher the better - 120-220 for removal 250- 400 for finish and buffing. Watch Transcend Furniture Gallery or John's Furniture Repair or any of the 'real' furniture repair TH-cam videos (not furniture flippers). Mostly because of their expertise in wood and how to restore it. I'm not an expert, but I've been researching for over a year because I want to do it right. You will lose all the yellowing patina when you refinish wood, that's sort of the point because that's the finish that has failed. If you fully restore it, you will love the white or light color. However if you want to have a useful tool, it's not really necessary to do any of this work. Good Luck!
I have never used a loom, but as for the cleaning and sanding I would definitely do both. I would however used a finer grit paper, well a set of finer grits starting with 400, then 600 and finally onto 1000 grit. You don't need to sand the whole thing back. The idea is to just create an evenish look.
Enjoyed this video and look forward to end results! Question- what is crackle?
I wanna see you actually doing stuff, so I can learn how to do it too! I have a macomber loom from 1974 and the wood is a mess, it needs to be refinished for sure. I'm even thinking I might paint it!
For sure! I made "Part 2" to the video and talked about what I did with the loom... th-cam.com/video/5cOQ3njnsis/w-d-xo.html
I wonder if a wire brush would help restore the metal bolts & screws? I’ve used the spray paint before on a few house projects to try and make nails and screws blend in-am also not a huge fan. It tends to chip off very easily, which is frustrating after spending time & effort on it!
I think weaving does bring people down to wood working in some way...I personally really want to learn how to re-upholster old chairs.
What would I do is have a game plan and hire help to do most of the sanding
I personally would put the new piece on, only sand/clean the visible parts that were gunky and annoyed me and craft. But that is cuz I'm a working mom (where crafting isn't my job) and my time is precious and I want the tool to work. But I also probably wouldn't have bought a vintage loom in the first place, so my opinion is probably not relevant. Love seeing your energy tho.
I am faced with EXACTLY the same dilemma. I recently purchased a used Leclerc Mira (not the Mira II) and it needs some wood love. This is my very first floor loom. It was taken apart for transporting and I am wondering if I should sand and seal before assembling it. Some pieces have the fine cracks in it from age and no wood treatment and has dried out over time. Please let us know what you do and the results. Good luck... to us both...lol.
Oh the Mira is an awesome loom!! If it’s already in pieces, it would be easier to clean before reassembling. Yes I have those cracks from dryness and age too in this loom. It just feels “thirsty” 😆 good luck with your loom!!
Well, you kind of have to sand the other treadles and re-poly them. But for the rest, I would clean and degunk , remove rust and make the metals look somewhat better but maybe not fully sand and re-poly all the wood or replace all the metal unless there are function issues. If sometime in the future, you decide that the color of the wood is truly affecting your enjoyment of the loom, you can always do the full sand and re-poly. But it will no longer look it’s age. Kind of like an older woman getting too much plastic surgery to become young again. It usually doesn’t look quite right. 😉. Just an opinion.
Just purchased an vintage table loom and am doing minor repairs at the moment.... don't think I'll do a full refinish at this point.
I'd wash it thoroughly with TSP and give it a good past wax finish (after repairing the chipped finish). The stickiness is most likely lanolin from the wool. Whatever you do, don't use Polyurathane in an oil-based varnish - if you ever really want to get down to the wood you will have another "really big job".
Clean her up scrub it al and refinish… it’s not so much that it’ll be “pretty” per day but it’s about putting the fibers on a CLEAN SMOOTH Workhorse…. Nothing worse than your fibers getting dirty… plus you’ll know EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY of your machine! That’s the beauty in refinishing, your hands would have touched every inch of her
Go For It!
Woohoo!! Thank you for your encouragement!! 🙌
since i had to strip and refinish/paint a table that was 20 years old, i would also sand down and refinish a loom if i had one. please use a mask when sanding. i used danish oil and it is pretty toxic so apply and let cure outside
Do you have a manual? To make sure you get all parts back to where they should be, or take pictures as you disassemble? Refinishing can be very satisfying, I no longer have patience for long, somewhat unproductive challenges....
This vlog is a definition of going down the rabbit hole with no solution in sight poor thing you have my sumpthy
haha thanks Della... I did actually completely refinish the loom and I'm thrilled that I did it all! :) I made it through the end of the tunnel 😆
It is a daunting job to clean it all the way, but if I were you, I would do it. It's not that you will repeat it in 5 years. Doing it halfway and not being happy with the result would be a waste of time. Then I would just assemble the new parts. Going all the way can give it the love it needs and therefore make it work better and longer, maybe another 40 years.
Before you replace the screws make sure they are the same size. I believe since 1968 they changed to metric size. LeClerc will be able to tell you.
The consideration for me would be time. Do I have the time? Can I wait to use the loom all the time it will take to be refinished? I wouldn’t worry about what Leclerc said. Companies don’t like to encourage refinishing, I think. Refinishing might mean you can’t put the pieces back together and they probably dread those emails by customers asking what to do next. Yikes! Just a theory. Do you! And have fun being you!
I have an old leclerc counterbalance loom and I want to clean the Reed. What would you use for that?
I was advised to clean a Reed with a wire brush and then use some raw fleece to rub over it so the lanolin protects the steel from re rusting.
I was told by a person at Schact to use naval jelly to clean a rusty reed.
“Where’s mom? I can’t find her!”
“She’s on the floor next to the loom.”
Obviously I am seeing this days later, but I think that you should tackle this project all at once because you want to, and perhaps recruit some help so that you can get it done in a timely fashion.
At the end of the day, if you chose the easy route and did it "good enough", would you sit there and regret not having done more every time you wove? If not, no reason to spend extra time and effort. If yes, then let the project take the time it needs.
I'm sure you've moved on and figured it out from here but it really just depends where your heart lays. On restoration, or like you said, making a tool functional to make what your heart wants.
Oh thank you Janelle! Yes!! I ended up doing a complete restoration and sanding it all down. It’s beautiful and finished now, and as a bonus, the beater beats straight again! 🎉
I have a Mira in my old car that I am going to refurbish. It is in much worse shape than yours. I may end up refinishing the whole thing, but I may only just get it clean enough to weave on. The patina is part of its charm.
If you decide to take it apart make sure you take lots of photos so you know how to rebuild it.
I’m in the same boat, and I’m really having a hard time not sanding and restoring…I’m not in love with the amber.
Sending you lots of energy!! You can do it! 💪
Personally I would clean it, put the sectional beam on and just use it as it is. Refreshing takes way too much weaving time. Weaving time is precious. It can't be recovered. If you love refinishing more than weaving then stop weaving and refinish furniture full time. If you refinish it, it won't make your weaving better. To make your weaving better there is no substitute for actually weaving.
Skip the "pretty-making" and just use your loom. Mine is 50+ years and I've not thought of making it look new again; its "scars" are evidence of its continued use. My concern with sanding everything down to renew its look is that the parts which once fit together so well, will have lost a bit of their integrity and not fit as well as before.