I think you are confused about dialectric grease. It doesn't "allow conductivity," it prevents it. If you coat the terminals with dialectric grease, don't be surprised if nothing happens when you try to start the engine. Especially if you only "snug" the connections as you suggest. Dialectric grease can be applied over the terminals after cables are on and a good connection has been established. You can also apply it to the underside of the terminal before reinstalling, or even on the terminals sparingly. However, it should not be applied to mating surfaces where a connection is not tight enough to displace it.
References? I don't believe it, it's proven in other videos that this is not true at all, the grease does not reduce conductivity only protects the connection.
@@iva4856 Look up "dielectric." It literally means to prevent the flow of electrons. You can use it on battery terminals if the connections are tightened enough so as to displace the grease, essentially removing it and allowing metal-to-metal contact. So it is pointless to apply loads of grease to your terminals because it needs to be "squeeezed out" again to restore contact. If you load the terminals with dialectric grease and only "snug" the connections, you increase the chances that the grease will not be displaced enough to allow contact. The main purpose of dielectric grease is to apply on outer surfaces to prevent arcing between surrounding components.
Dielectric grease is an insulator which resists the flow of electricity. Coating the posts with dielectric grease does exactly what the lead oxide does, resistance. Dielectric grease is best used for weatherproofing electrical connections.
@@alpenglow1235 Thankyou brotha 🙏🙏your a godsend. No one’s given me a solid answer except for you. One other question does Vaseline work like they say it does? It’s petroleum based so that worries me.
@@johnnylego807, I suppose Vaseline would suffice. I use the red terminal protector grease, comes in a spray can. The idea is to protect from moisture and acid. You could wrap in plastic, but it wouldn’t be as effective. Something else I’ve done is powdered my battery and nearby area with baking soda. Looks like a mess, but very effective for controlling the migration of acid.
@@alpenglow1235 All great ideas actually. Thankyou for the suggestions. I might give Vaseline a try, but since diaelectric Grease is so cheap might as well use the proper thing💪 💯
Great video. I do want to stress though that corrosion is often mistaken with sulfation - sulfation is indicated by large buildup of chalky blue/green paste on the negative terminal. Why is this? Because the battery is being undercharged during driving - and this is due to either to degraded alternator (when oil / sludge builds up over time into the alternator for example) OR the alternator belt has become too loose or needs replacing. When the alternator belt is loose insufficient power is restored to the battery through the alternator, and this will cause sulfation (i.e. "Corrosion") on the negative terminal. Good maintenance habits are important but understanding how to tension your alternator belt is REALLY important for your battery and understanding how to replace your alternator if needed is also important.
What about ev? My ev builds up corrosion on negative terminals. It doesn't look like leaking but it's 4 years old so could be old and leak? The battery is clean, just corroded at - terminal.
I like the attention given to PPE and NEVER POSITIVE FIRST when disconnecting terminals . Perfect time to do some preventative maintenance on battery .Amazing how many fail around Halloween when nights get cooler .
Finally someone teaching me how to take care of my car the right way. I dont trust mechanics, Ive had my share of HORRIBLE mechanics. I just do what I can myself. Thank you for this. New subscriber.
Dielectric grease, or tune-up grease, is a silicone-based grease that repels moisture and protects electrical connections against corrosion. ... The grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn't be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection
Bob, actually applying Delectric grease to the posts does more good than harm. The electrical metal to metal contact is still there and where it is not the grease surrounds it. It’s counterintuitive but it has not failed for me!
Dielectric grease is non - conductive and prevents moisture (acid,water) contact with post. Non-conductive does not equal electric insulation. Many people confuse these two terms. I use silicone grease for all electric connections, connectors, and anywhere a good ground is needed in moisture environments
Don't put the dielectric grease on until you have cleaned and tightened the battery terminal to the battery post. Dielectric grease works fine, stopping corrosion, but it leaves a sticky dirt attractant and you will get it all over your clothes every time you work near your battery, again. It never dries and stays a sticky mess. Use Fluid Film instead. It protects just as well as dielectric grease but dries so you won't get it all over yourself, later. Believe me, I've used both and I'll never go back to dielectric grease, again.
This happens because the seal around the post is leaking. I always put a bead of silicone around the post where it meets the case best if done when new.
By far the best video on this topic. I read the manual for Honda. They recommend putting baking soda on the corrosion and adding a little bit of water to dampen it. Let it sit for a while until color changes and then cleaning it off. I will be using your method combined with Honda instructions.
Thanks for making this video to help people like myself. I've always did my own car repairs and never realized how much there is to doing this correctly! I've overlooked it all these years. Thanks! New subscriber by the way, from Fall River, MA. 🤜
Really good video. The safety precautions are excellent. Just an FYI to those of you with a generator with a battery. It’s time to take a look at those batteries as well. A similar process will apply. All the products he’s using are usually available at a car parts store or Amazon. 👍
I hate to tell you, but dielectric grease is non-conductive. You should clamp down dry terminals and then put the corrosion protector on the outside only. That way the terminal has full metal-to-metal contact but the grease on the outside keeps air away, which inhibits corrosion. The reason it's working for you is that when you tighten the bolts the grease is getting squeezed out, so that the metal comes into contact enough to transmit voltage, but not fully.
I appreciate your presentation here and thank you for sharing this. Q: Are you quite sure that applying the 'Dielectric Grease' at the end is really what you want to do? "dielectric" does not imply conductivity. I'm sure it does help to coat and protect the terminals but, I would think that the only reason then that your cable-terminals make electrical contact with the posts is - when you clamp them on their metal protrudes through that grease and reaches the other side. It does not help and might even make it harder to establish a good full-surface contact. ??
Would you be willing to show the safe and propper way to work with spark plugs and replacing and adjusting them if needed as well as other maintenance fluid changes sir this is quality work here
I found this very helpful and have purchased the supplies to clean up my wife's car today. Just curious though, why do I only rinse things off with distilled water? I know you only use distilled water to top off the old style batteries but wonder why it's used to clean them up as well.
correct. the metal to metal contact is still there. what the dielectric grease does is protect the places that are not metal to metal contact from corrosion. it seems counterintuitive but it works fantastic !
@@GreenosGarage the metal to metal contact is still there? Still a slightly weakened connection. Works, but not the best connection. Connect then coat!
@@bobbob6853 My sense and experience differs from yours. I've used dielectric grease on my vehicles, in the manner shown, for years and never had an issue. Sense tells me that a terminal with proper clamping force with make fine contact with the battery stud.
Hi! Just used this procedure to clean the battery terminals on my C6 Corvette. Worked like a charm. The Vette battery is a bit more challenging to get to especially the negative terminal but your procedure worked very well and I am NOT a DIY kinda guy! Jerry
Hey brother my names clos just saw your video the first 2 i saw on battery installs were dirt i have been at an auto parts store for three months and have been told different things... long story short I like your video sounds legit and will take your advice when I do battery swaps at my store thank you
i USE vaseline on the outside of the connection. My last battery lasted a little over 6 yrs. Before using the vaseline it/same brand of battery would only last about 3 YRS. I'll keep using the vaseline.
Loved this! Thank you for the demo. My battery is very hard for me to reach. I'm short, which makes matters worse. I drive a Chevy Cruz, and the battery is in the trunk, in the spare tire compartment. 😳 But, I enjoyed the video.
I tried the dielectric grease on cleaned terminals, and I use a blade type post cleaner which leaves a smooth, like new finish, not all scratched up. After assembling it, the battery wasn’t able to start the car, and there’s no solvent I know of to remove the silicone grease, other than just aggressively wiping it with rags. Once recleaned, everything worked fine. I would consider applying it to the top of the terminal after connecting it, but I think fluid film or some other product might be better and cleaner .
@GreenosGarage The terminals on a good battery will clean up with two turns, the shavings are minimal, I also pull the blade back while putting the tool both on and off, to avoid cutting a groove. The matching reamer usually involves a bit more cutting, because the clamps tend to deform, but the finished surfaces have a matching taper. As to how tight, that’s difficult, we know what too tight looks like, a broken clamp. I’m usually working on classic cars with original hard to find components, so I’m cautious.
I had a motorbike battery showing signs of failing so I ordered a new one from my friend's bike shop . I had noticed the main lights being a bit dimmer and had topped up the cells , cleaned the earth points and battery posts . Anyway my friend asked if I wanted to install the new battery when I arrived at his shop as his guys were a bit busy . No problem I said and borrowed a couple of tools . When I lifted the battery acid poured from the bottom of its casing ! A lead plate had come free inside and worn a groove through the casing ! Under the casing was a closed cell rubber mat and that had saved most of the acid from leaking . Whoops .
I've always heard that Anti-Seize (commonly called Never Seize) will work well - used in the process step where you are using silicon paste. Any thoughts?
@@MrRustyFord I would only use antisieze after you put the terminal back on the post. I’ve heard of people using grease or even oil on the terminals. The key to keep corrosion out is to not have the post exposed to the air.
Great info! Thanks for putting this together. What would cause a solar gel deep cycle battery to leak or have calcification/ sulfation on the positive terminal?
Baking soda neutralizes acid well and is harmless and cheap. Also, spraying the terminals instead of gooping them up is cleaner, more efficient, and does not interfere with intended conduction paths.
All you need is a mixture of baking soda and distilled water and this is a great cleaner. Rinse with the distilled water before applying the protectant.
what part of the USA do you live here it gets 100 percent humidity and 70 percent dew point really hard time for corrosion when i leave battery hooked up to vehicle
Dielectric grease is an electrical insulator. Don't put it directly on the terminals before attaching the cables. Attach the cables first to ensure maximal metal to metal contact THEN cover the connection with grease
Good video. How would you treat battery terminals when the battery is removed from the boat for winter or left in the boat but with the wires/cables removed and a battery maintainer charger is clipped to the terminals, in both cases, over winter? Would you clean the terminals, coat with dielectric grease then connect the maintainer for winter storage? Then follow your video to prep the battery for summer? Thanks.
Don't bother with the paste stuff. Go to the medicine cabinet or under the sink and get the jar of Vasaline. We've used it for years on all our trucks and cars and NEVER had a corrosion problem. Petrolium based, Good for the environment. Sound familiar?? Oh and the cost cant be beat.
I have the same Noco products being shipped right now. Didn’t think about dielectric paste first. Could you not just use the NOCO paste prior to installing terminals then coat outside as well?
In the question area on the amazon page the manufacturer says “ No, NCP-2 is non-conductive, so all connections to the battery must be made prior to applying the product.” www.amazon.com/dp/B004AWO4NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_CiFRFbNSK43TW
You made a good choice. NOCO is just like Fluid Film and will stop corrosion and dry and not remain wet or become a dust magnet. Clean the terminals and battery posts with baking soda mixed with water and also don't forget to remove the battery and clean the battery tray with the baking soda and water. Then wire brush clean the battery terminals and battery connectors and tighten them together. Then completely cover the posts and terminals with the NOCO leaving no uncovered metal.
Does the baking soda method of cleaning have any issues compared to a spray cleaner? Have a new battery but the terminals will be cleaned as they still have some acid on them.
You can use baking soda just make sure it does not get into the battery. Keep away from any fill holes and be careful around the posts. Baking soda inside a battery will ruin it.
Lead is toxic If the outer surfaces of the battery terminals are really made of lead, using a wire brish to sand off the surfsce corrosion would seem to create many tiny lead particles. A solution for manufacturers might be to coat the terminals in something that conducts well, does not corrode, and does not contain lead
I was looking this up because my battery keeps dying over night. Im trying to figure out what to do about it. I want to properly clean the connectors because the positive was very corrosive on mine. I was thinking of looking for the fuse to the auto door locks and pull that, see if itll help because my door locks at random times.
If the battery is draining overnight, there may be a parasitic drain like you are talking about. Look up videos on parasitic drains. Also it’s colder at night so if your battery is old that may be a sign you need a new one. You could take your car to autozone and have them test the battery for you. Good luck.
hello sir any advice how to clean car body damaged from baterry acid? I tryed backing soda ,metal cleaner products the rost does not want to go away at this stage even my transmision has some white staff on it. I was a fole added acid baterry it was to much I ques there was not much air space in the baterry so my terminals got leaky now I have problem how to deal with that staff?
It comes in a number of different brands, they are probably all the same compound. Just go to your parts store, NAPA etc., and ask for battery terminal cleaner. I also use the battery protectant spray along with the dielectric grease.
Just my personal opinion but yes, you could. Only 2 qualifiers I'd have are: 1. Apply it *after* you've connected the terminals, not before. Petroleum Jelly does not conduct electricity, it is an insulator, so I wouldn't put any on the bare battery posts or inside the clamp part of the terminals. You want good metal-to-metal contact between the terminals & the posts. 2. I'd apply a complete but thin coat of the jelly. You really only need enough to thinly but completely coat the terminal. It acts as a barrier to any acid or acid fumes that the battery may release. If petroleum jelly is all you have it's better than nothing and will work. I personally prefer to use Dielectric Grease, applied exactly as I described above.
You can clean it all you like and make it look brand new - but if the battery is leaking battery acid near the posts, it wont matter how clean it is, it'll still get corroded
it's not though. dielectric grease should never be put on the mating surfaces of electrical connections and will raise resistance, causing the alternator to work harder to name one thing.
Bought my 2016 Corolla new and original battery is still in there and terminals are 100% clean, no corrosion. Now I weekly thoroughly wipe off the top of the battery always keeping it clean, is that why I have no corrosion? I have never removed the terminals.
How do you know there is no corrosion inside or under the battery clamps. You should remove the clamps at least once a year and clean and protect them in the places that can't be readily seen. Also, find out where your battery ground wire attaches to the body chassis and check that connection for tightness and tighten if necessary.
Yes it is, but when you tighten the terminal down it does not prevent metal to metal contact. Therefore is seals out any corrosion without preventing electrical contact.
WD40 is good for cleaning it but it won't prevent corrosion for very long. Greenos vid is great, except personally I don't grease the sides of the terminal or inside of the connector - I make the connection and apply grease to the tops/side/bottom of the connection. Horses for courses.
@@therealchickentender Just use duralube oil or slick 50 on the terminals. Krown rust spray works well and will seep into the connection so you don't have to take off the terminals.
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You rarely come across a video that is so abrasive and helpful at the same time.
I think it's called quiet yelling? I also love to be talked down to during a tutorial video.
That's not abrasive. Very clear, nothing extra! Thank you sir.
I think you are confused about dialectric grease. It doesn't "allow conductivity," it prevents it. If you coat the terminals with dialectric grease, don't be surprised if nothing happens when you try to start the engine. Especially if you only "snug" the connections as you suggest. Dialectric grease can be applied over the terminals after cables are on and a good connection has been established. You can also apply it to the underside of the terminal before reinstalling, or even on the terminals sparingly. However, it should not be applied to mating surfaces where a connection is not tight enough to displace it.
References? I don't believe it, it's proven in other videos that this is not true at all, the grease does not reduce conductivity only protects the connection.
@@iva4856 Look up "dielectric." It literally means to prevent the flow of electrons. You can use it on battery terminals if the connections are tightened enough so as to displace the grease, essentially removing it and allowing metal-to-metal contact. So it is pointless to apply loads of grease to your terminals because it needs to be "squeeezed out" again to restore contact. If you load the terminals with dialectric grease and only "snug" the connections, you increase the chances that the grease will not be displaced enough to allow contact. The main purpose of dielectric grease is to apply on outer surfaces to prevent arcing between surrounding components.
What about Vaseline? I’ve heard many say this works? Not sure tho as it’s petroleum based ….
You must not tighten the battery cables. 😅
@@byronrogers4489 No... Opposite is true. You MUST tighten them.
Dielectric grease is an insulator which resists the flow of electricity. Coating the posts with dielectric grease does exactly what the lead oxide does, resistance. Dielectric grease is best used for weatherproofing electrical connections.
So what’s a better solution too use? Any ideas? I’ve heard so many at this point I’m not sure what to use. So much debate.
@@johnnylego807, Dielectric grease is best used to seal the batt to cable connection. Smear it on the connection, not between the connectors.
@@alpenglow1235 Thankyou brotha 🙏🙏your a godsend. No one’s given me a solid answer except for you. One other question does Vaseline work like they say it does? It’s petroleum based so that worries me.
@@johnnylego807, I suppose Vaseline would suffice. I use the red terminal protector grease, comes in a spray can. The idea is to protect from moisture and acid. You could wrap in plastic, but it wouldn’t be as effective.
Something else I’ve done is powdered my battery and nearby area with baking soda. Looks like a mess, but very effective for controlling the migration of acid.
@@alpenglow1235 All great ideas actually. Thankyou for the suggestions. I might give Vaseline a try, but since diaelectric Grease is so cheap might as well use the proper thing💪 💯
Great video. I do want to stress though that corrosion is often mistaken with sulfation - sulfation is indicated by large buildup of chalky blue/green paste on the negative terminal. Why is this? Because the battery is being undercharged during driving - and this is due to either to degraded alternator (when oil / sludge builds up over time into the alternator for example) OR the alternator belt has become too loose or needs replacing. When the alternator belt is loose insufficient power is restored to the battery through the alternator, and this will cause sulfation (i.e. "Corrosion") on the negative terminal. Good maintenance habits are important but understanding how to tension your alternator belt is REALLY important for your battery and understanding how to replace your alternator if needed is also important.
I never knew why this happened!!! Thanks for posting this!👨🔧
The real gem of this video is in the comment section! Well done! Thanks for valuable info!
Could also be due to short distance driving only.
Gold comment! Thank you!!!
What about ev? My ev builds up corrosion on negative terminals. It doesn't look like leaking but it's 4 years old so could be old and leak? The battery is clean, just corroded at - terminal.
Great video Sir. First, you showed that safety is number 1. Then you went on to explain why you’re doing what you’re doing. You are such a champion!
I like the attention given to PPE and NEVER POSITIVE FIRST when disconnecting terminals .
Perfect time to do some preventative maintenance on battery .Amazing how many fail around Halloween when nights get cooler .
reading this 2 days after halloween lol
Finally someone teaching me how to take care of my car the right way. I dont trust mechanics, Ive had my share of HORRIBLE mechanics. I just do what I can myself. Thank you for this. New subscriber.
Thank you glad I could help
Dielectric grease, or tune-up grease, is a silicone-based grease that repels moisture and protects electrical connections against corrosion. ... The grease does not conduct electricity, so it shouldn't be applied directly to the mating surfaces (pins and sockets) of an electrical connection
Bob, actually applying Delectric grease to the posts does more good than harm. The electrical metal to metal contact is still there and where it is not the grease surrounds it. It’s counterintuitive but it has not failed for me!
Dielectric grease is non - conductive and prevents moisture (acid,water) contact with post. Non-conductive does not equal electric insulation. Many people confuse these two terms. I use silicone grease for all electric connections, connectors, and anywhere a good ground is needed in moisture environments
@@dennisgruba4792 "Non-conductive does not equal electric insulation".? I'd love to here the explanation for that statement.
@@bobbob6853 I would, too.
Don't put the dielectric grease on until you have cleaned and tightened the battery terminal to the battery post. Dielectric grease works fine, stopping corrosion, but it leaves a sticky dirt attractant and you will get it all over your clothes every time you work near your battery, again. It never dries and stays a sticky mess. Use Fluid Film instead. It protects just as well as dielectric grease but dries so you won't get it all over yourself, later. Believe me, I've used both and I'll never go back to dielectric grease, again.
This happens because the seal around the post is leaking. I always put a bead of silicone around the post where it meets the case best if done when new.
By far the best video on this topic. I read the manual for Honda. They recommend putting baking soda on the corrosion and adding a little bit of water to dampen it. Let it sit for a while until color changes and then cleaning it off. I will be using your method combined with Honda instructions.
Wow this is the most pro video ever made on battery cleaning and maintenance.
Great video, and the rock intro is a nice touch. Thank you.
Thanks for making this video to help people like myself. I've always did my own car repairs and never realized how much there is to doing this correctly! I've overlooked it all these years. Thanks! New subscriber by the way, from Fall River, MA. 🤜
Glad I could help!
Really good video. The safety precautions are excellent. Just an FYI to those of you with a generator with a battery. It’s time to take a look at those batteries as well. A similar process will apply. All the products he’s using are usually available at a car parts store or Amazon. 👍
Just replaced my battery and did these exact steps as you illustrate. Thanks
wow! I wish my Honda Dealership did this much work on my car.
Right!
They would charge you $100. For this much service…
Both toyota and honda suffer way too much from this.
My bowtie never did this.
I hate to tell you, but dielectric grease is non-conductive. You should clamp down dry terminals and then put the corrosion protector on the outside only. That way the terminal has full metal-to-metal contact but the grease on the outside keeps air away, which inhibits corrosion. The reason it's working for you is that when you tighten the bolts the grease is getting squeezed out, so that the metal comes into contact enough to transmit voltage, but not fully.
Exactly. Dielectric on top of a finished connection only, never between the terminal and connector. That's asking for trouble.
Is Vaseline safe too use? I read because it’s petroleum based that it can be dangerous??
Well, thank you for doing it right Greeno.
I appreciate your presentation here and thank you for sharing this. Q: Are you quite sure that applying the 'Dielectric Grease' at the end is really what you want to do? "dielectric" does not imply conductivity. I'm sure it does help to coat and protect the terminals but, I would think that the only reason then that your cable-terminals make electrical contact with the posts is - when you clamp them on their metal protrudes through that grease and reaches the other side. It does not help and might even make it harder to establish a good full-surface contact. ??
Would you be willing to show the safe and propper way to work with spark plugs and replacing and adjusting them if needed as well as other maintenance fluid changes sir this is quality work here
You would expect dealerships to do this if you buy a battery there. But they don’t.
I found this very helpful and have purchased the supplies to clean up my wife's car today. Just curious though, why do I only rinse things off with distilled water? I know you only use distilled water to top off the old style batteries but wonder why it's used to clean them up as well.
A job well done. We have performed this procedure and are happy with the results. We will let you know in the future how well it works. .... OORAH!!
Today's DIY job. Thanks.
I highly recommend Ncp2 battery corrosion preventative spray and distilled water
Amazing video. I wished you would have showed us the cleaner and acid indicator can because I’m going to buy everything you used. Great explanation.
CRC 05023 Battery Cleaner with Acid Indicator
Thank you bro!
I had problems with my Harley electrical switches on my handlebars for years, hope this will stop it from recurring.
Dielectric grease does not conduct electicity, so would it not be bad to put on the connections?
correct. the metal to metal contact is still there. what the dielectric grease does is protect the places that are not metal to metal contact from corrosion. it seems counterintuitive but it works fantastic !
@@GreenosGarage the metal to metal contact is still there? Still a slightly weakened connection. Works,
but not the best connection. Connect then coat!
@@bobbob6853 "Still a slightly weakened connection." In any way that's measurable?
@@nodriveknowitall702 Common Sense and experience with that crap between the connection.
@@bobbob6853 My sense and experience differs from yours. I've used dielectric grease on my vehicles, in the manner shown, for years and never had an issue. Sense tells me that a terminal with proper clamping force with make fine contact with the battery stud.
Hi! Just used this procedure to clean the battery terminals on my C6 Corvette. Worked like a charm. The Vette battery is a bit more challenging to get to especially the negative terminal but your procedure worked very well and I am NOT a DIY kinda guy! Jerry
So this is how you do it right! I had no idea.
@@YIRMASTER What’s wrong about this, and what would you do?
Hey brother my names clos just saw your video the first 2 i saw on battery installs were dirt i have been at an auto parts store for three months and have been told different things... long story short I like your video sounds legit and will take your advice when I do battery swaps at my store thank you
i USE vaseline on the outside of the connection. My last battery lasted a little over 6 yrs. Before using the vaseline it/same brand of battery would only last about 3 YRS. I'll keep using the vaseline.
Is vaseline applied before or after connecting the terminals?
@@SDSunriser I personally do it after connecting them. I think I read somewhere that was better to do.
Amazing sir! And your voice is perfect for the vid.
Loved this! Thank you for the demo. My battery is very hard for me to reach. I'm short, which makes matters worse. I drive a Chevy Cruz, and the battery is in the trunk, in the spare tire compartment. 😳 But, I enjoyed the video.
W-D 40 work well too!
I tried the dielectric grease on cleaned terminals, and I use a blade type post cleaner which leaves a smooth, like new finish, not all scratched up. After assembling it, the battery wasn’t able to start the car, and there’s no solvent I know of to remove the silicone grease, other than just aggressively wiping it with rags. Once recleaned, everything worked fine. I would consider applying it to the top of the terminal after connecting it, but I think fluid film or some other product might be better and cleaner .
The blade type terminal cleaner can reduce the size of the terminal. Did you clamp down the terminal tight enough?
@GreenosGarage The terminals on a good battery will clean up with two turns, the shavings are minimal, I also pull the blade back while putting the tool both on and off, to avoid cutting a groove. The matching reamer usually involves a bit more cutting, because the clamps tend to deform, but the finished surfaces have a matching taper. As to how tight, that’s difficult, we know what too tight looks like, a broken clamp. I’m usually working on classic cars with original hard to find components, so I’m cautious.
I had a motorbike battery showing signs of failing so I ordered a new one from my friend's bike shop . I had noticed the main lights being a bit dimmer and had topped up the cells , cleaned the earth points and battery posts . Anyway my friend asked if I wanted to install the new battery when I arrived at his shop as his guys were a bit busy . No problem I said and borrowed a couple of tools . When I lifted the battery acid poured from the bottom of its casing ! A lead plate had come free inside and worn a groove through the casing ! Under the casing was a closed cell rubber mat and that had saved most of the acid from leaking . Whoops .
Very informative and well explained 🤙🏼🤙🏼💪🏼thank you
I've always heard that Anti-Seize (commonly called Never Seize) will work well - used in the process step where you are using silicon paste. Any thoughts?
@@MrRustyFord I would only use antisieze after you put the terminal back on the post. I’ve heard of people using grease or even oil on the terminals. The key to keep corrosion out is to not have the post exposed to the air.
Nice job. Thanks for all the details.
Great info! Thanks for putting this together. What would cause a solar gel deep cycle battery to leak or have calcification/ sulfation on the positive terminal?
overcharging...
Is it OK to submerge the terminals into a cup full of baking soda and water solution to neutralize any acid?
Really grateful. Very well shown. Thank you!!
"THE JUICE.... IS WORTH THE SQUEEZE!!"..👍🏾💯💯💯💯😊
Baking soda neutralizes acid well and is harmless and cheap. Also, spraying the terminals instead of gooping them up is cleaner, more efficient, and does not interfere with intended conduction paths.
I have CRC Battery Cleaner, can I use this one to clean the terminals?
yes you can
All you need is a mixture of baking soda and distilled water and this is a great cleaner. Rinse with the distilled water before applying the protectant.
Just use mass air flow sensor cleaner it'll work just as well.
what part of the USA do you live here it gets 100 percent humidity and 70 percent dew point really hard time for corrosion when i leave battery hooked up to vehicle
South
Thanks for the excellent video, i don’t feel patronized at all😂
Dielectric grease is an electrical insulator. Don't put it directly on the terminals before attaching the cables. Attach the cables first to ensure maximal metal to metal contact THEN cover the connection with grease
Can Vaseline be used?
Good video. How would you treat battery terminals when the battery is removed from the boat for winter or left in the boat but with the wires/cables removed and a battery maintainer charger is clipped to the terminals, in both cases, over winter? Would you clean the terminals, coat with dielectric grease then connect the maintainer for winter storage? Then follow your video to prep the battery for summer? Thanks.
I would definitely clean the terminals. Then just a little diametric and connect the charger. Thanks
“It’s time to throw away the donuts!” I’m just trying to learn about car maintenance. Why am I getting attacked? Lol
I know. My humor is not very funny! Sorry…….. LOL
Don't bother with the paste stuff. Go to the medicine cabinet or under the sink and get the jar of Vasaline. We've used it for years on all our trucks and cars and NEVER had a corrosion problem. Petrolium based, Good for the environment. Sound familiar?? Oh and the cost cant be beat.
Hey does the ncp2 affect if you have to attach a battery charger/maintainer? Ty
No. You’ll be good. Just wiggle the clips a little to ensure contact.
I have the same Noco products being shipped right now. Didn’t think about dielectric paste first. Could you not just use the NOCO paste prior to installing terminals then coat outside as well?
In the question area on the amazon page the manufacturer says “ No, NCP-2 is non-conductive, so all connections to the battery must be made prior to applying the product.”
www.amazon.com/dp/B004AWO4NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_CiFRFbNSK43TW
You made a good choice. NOCO is just like Fluid Film and will stop corrosion and dry and not remain wet or become a dust magnet. Clean the terminals and battery posts with baking soda mixed with water and also don't forget to remove the battery and clean the battery tray with the baking soda and water. Then wire brush clean the battery terminals and battery connectors and tighten them together. Then completely cover the posts and terminals with the NOCO leaving no uncovered metal.
Does the baking soda method of cleaning have any issues compared to a spray cleaner? Have a new battery but the terminals will be cleaned as they still have some acid on them.
You can use baking soda just make sure it does not get into the battery. Keep away from any fill holes and be careful around the posts. Baking soda inside a battery will ruin it.
Thanks bud.@@GreenosGarage
"Super fool tight" I had to laugh, because I have been that fool in the past.
WONDERFUL!! Thank you so much!!!!!!
Well done, sir
I need you to come do mine😊😊 You did that so perfect 🏆🏆
Lead is toxic
If the outer surfaces of the battery terminals are really made of lead, using a wire brish to sand off the surfsce corrosion would seem to create many tiny lead particles.
A solution for manufacturers might be to coat the terminals in something that conducts well, does not corrode, and does not contain lead
I was looking this up because my battery keeps dying over night. Im trying to figure out what to do about it. I want to properly clean the connectors because the positive was very corrosive on mine. I was thinking of looking for the fuse to the auto door locks and pull that, see if itll help because my door locks at random times.
If the battery is draining overnight, there may be a parasitic drain like you are talking about. Look up videos on parasitic drains. Also it’s colder at night so if your battery is old that may be a sign you need a new one. You could take your car to autozone and have them test the battery for you. Good luck.
It does sound like a parasitic load, but test your battery, alternator and the alternator belt also.
hello sir any advice how to clean car body damaged from baterry acid? I tryed backing soda ,metal cleaner products the rost does not want to go away at this stage even my transmision has some white staff on it. I was a fole added acid baterry it was to much I ques there was not much air space in the baterry so my terminals got leaky now I have problem how to deal with that staff?
What’s the name of the spray battery cleaner?
It comes in a number of different brands, they are probably all the same compound. Just go to your parts store, NAPA etc., and ask for battery terminal cleaner. I also use the battery protectant spray along with the dielectric grease.
What is the difference between the first grade and the red stuff you put on last?
What are u spraying?
Dielectric grease is non conductive. It should be applied to the exterior of the connections. Not to the posts.
Could petroleum jelly be used instead of NCP2? Thank you.
Just my personal opinion but yes, you could. Only 2 qualifiers I'd have are:
1. Apply it *after* you've connected the terminals, not before. Petroleum Jelly does not conduct electricity, it is an insulator, so I wouldn't put any on the bare battery posts or inside the clamp part of the terminals. You want good metal-to-metal contact between the terminals & the posts.
2. I'd apply a complete but thin coat of the jelly. You really only need enough to thinly but completely coat the terminal. It acts as a barrier to any acid or acid fumes that the battery may release.
If petroleum jelly is all you have it's better than nothing and will work. I personally prefer to use Dielectric Grease, applied exactly as I described above.
@@The13thSword Thanks for the input.
Super good info.
Great video Thanks!!!
Some videos say the grease keeps the battery from making a good connection, They say regular grease works better.
Do not put greese on the contacts, only on the bottom to insulate. If not, corrrent will not flow correctly.
Tesla car has a big battery pack, and it also has this tradition 12V battery. I wondered if it runs into this same corrosion issue.
Free Knowledge!
does the silicone dielectric paste also protect from corrosion if is applied over the terminals?
yes it does!
That is the only way it prevents future corrosion.
You can clean it all you like and make it look brand new - but if the battery is leaking battery acid near the posts, it wont matter how clean it is, it'll still get corroded
Donut pads
How about water and Baking soda.
Great video, Man...👍👍😃
Thank you
Dialectic grease or paste is actually an insulator it does not conduct electricity. Look it up for yourself.
Video is good, but its like he's coming down on me like I'm always doing something wrong lol.
That battery cleaner not for sale in Africa where I live.
Very professional
it's not though.
dielectric grease should never be put on the mating surfaces of electrical connections and will raise resistance, causing the alternator to work harder to name one thing.
I appreciate your video. But I thought I saw some red! Lol.
Bought my 2016 Corolla new and original battery is still in there and terminals are 100% clean, no corrosion. Now I weekly thoroughly wipe off the top of the battery always keeping it clean, is that why I have no corrosion? I have never removed the terminals.
How do you know there is no corrosion inside or under the battery clamps. You should remove the clamps at least once a year and clean and protect them in the places that can't be readily seen. Also, find out where your battery ground wire attaches to the body chassis and check that connection for tightness and tighten if necessary.
I would have rather seen you clean the first one. Cleaning a clean one is pretty easy
Everything he said,,,,,,, BUT,,,, connect the terminals first and then put the dielectric grease on. Dielectric grease is an insulator.
You done good son 😎
Short, sweet, correct!
Thank you!!!
Any chance u could list all the products-this is preferred service. Great job
i'm confused. dielectric grease is an insulator.
Yes it is, but when you tighten the terminal down it does not prevent metal to metal contact. Therefore is seals out any corrosion without preventing electrical contact.
Standard ignition battery terminal protectors BPP74
Thanks!
You’re welcome
Awsum !!
Video begins at 01:08 your welcome.
Wd40 it wouldn't also work effectively?
I have not tried that. Some people would use grease or oil. I would stick with dielectric grease myself.
WD40 is good for cleaning it but it won't prevent corrosion for very long. Greenos vid is great, except personally I don't grease the sides of the terminal or inside of the connector - I make the connection and apply grease to the tops/side/bottom of the connection. Horses for courses.
No. WD40 is not intended as an acid neutralizer. Use baking soda mixed with water instead of WD-40.
@@therealchickentender Just use duralube oil or slick 50 on the terminals. Krown rust spray works well and will seep into the connection so you don't have to take off the terminals.
If only I had all the tools you had
Bruce, it’s a sickness really!
Sir, yes sir!!!
Good video. I followed your procedure except they didn't have that dialectic grease at Walmart. Hopefully that doesn't make much of a difference.
Actually it makes...can corrode between the cable and battery in wet winters or so...
Vasoline
@@M3NTALMAGICdoes vasoline work? It’s petroleum based? Isn’t that dangerous?
have anyone done this before?
Can you upload the video without timelapse?