It's because of people like you that help people like us learn new skills. You inspire those that think they couldn't do it before. Thank you for that.
I ran 1 inch strips of insulation foam for the cross braces and covered that with a layer of carbon fiber to give the braces some three dimensional structure.....much stronger than just flat strips of carbon cloth and insignificant weight addition.
Geometry under the hood will yield the strongest part while still saving a ton of weight. Even something as simple as cutting the cardboard tube from an old paper towel roll in half length wise and laying the end to end provides a easy form you can lay your cf over and get the most out of it. Foam works too as long as you aren’t using polyester resins that will eat it. OEM hoods have the ribbing for this very reason, max rigidity with minimal material. Overall, love the video and great work. Love seeing people choose to do it themselves to get something special and one of a kind versus spending thousands on a super price inflated cookie cutter hood.
I've done the same for already 5 panels of my car, I do 1 ply of 300g/sqm carbon fiber on the original panel, I put epoxy there, then I put 2mm or 3mm nomex honeycomb, then another 300g carbon F ply. Then epoxy again, then peel ply, perforated release film, then breather then vac bag. From experience I suggest that you bag only the top of the panel and not all of it because you will crush the original panel. Also a pressure of 0.25 bar is great to not crush the core. you can expect 1.7kg/sqm in average. It's faster than your technique and way stiffer, more prone to damage also but for a track or road car it's great. To seal the core you can use tape (like they do in aerospace) or thickened resin. For bumpers carbon dynnema or twarron is also great ! I do 3 ply of 300g/sqm also but I use a squeegee and I'm not scare to go a little resin poor for better bending with less cracks. I's always very fun to do or watch thanks
I’ve watched this video loads of times now and gathered up the courage to buy some carbon fibre and will be attempting this with some front wings. Thanks for the inspiration and really good vids!
I really enjoyed this video, I have been making a few small CF panels (steadily getting bigger) with pleasing results. I wanted to do exactly what you have done here to make a CF bonnet for my supercharged van (without making a mould) and this has been a great inspiration. Thank you RuskiWeldfab!
@@RuskiWeldFab how many layers was the original 5Kg fiberglass hood? And have you tried 2 layers of 200 carbon kevlar for ultimate weight saving or it will be too flimsy?
Nicely done video... I liked how yu fixed ur mistake n actually ended up making it stronger.... keep it man ... lookin forward 2 ur nxt project..... its videos like this that give me confidence 2 start showcasing some of my work .... not everything is 4 everybody... but ppl with dreams need a gentle push .... thanks again
I was thinking of the same idea -- to use the original as the mold to save money. Most vehicles have a ~3/16 gap between body fairings, so fitting shouldn't be much of an issue. Depending on how much your time it's worth, a cheap fiberglass mold may end up saving you more time, which equals $_$. I would also only create the mold for the inner support structures for strength/mounting.
This was an awesome video.... I have a 2016 EcoBoost Mustang that I'm building... I have tons of carbon fiber inside and out... that is the one thing I'm still needing is a carbon hood... I'm wanting a 4 inch cowl hood with two side vents.. I also like the terminator style hood.. Great video and you definitely cut the weight down . Keep up the good work...
nice job _ I am happy that you are impressed with yourself ;) - it is truly live and learn and if you had cut the material large enough, You could have folded all the edges around without cutting it, giving the edges a nice round finished look, plus the folded layer would have provided additional strength - Finally since you used an existing exterior of a bonnet, the question remains to see if it fits is it should since it could be a tiny bit larger than the original by several millimeters - Since this was from a year ago, you probably don't care about my comment any more.
Awesome video. Love the honesty about the project but it really did come out awesome. I am working up the courage to make some parts for my Focus and this helps!!!!
I have a question. Wouldn't be better for weight, practicallity and easier to work on the car when the front body panels are one piece and is holding on quick release buttons? What is your opinion on this?
Very good question. Simple answer is YES and NO. Sometimes you only need to open the bonnet. Will be a pain to remove entire front end. Expensive to make as this will require a huge 5/6 piece mould. Won’t be cheap. Also being so big there is issues of storing it. Once removed you need to keep it somewhere safe. Carbon is more fragile than you might think. So yeah there are possitives and negatives. But usualy full front end as one part is reserved for fully space framed cars
@@RuskiWeldFab по размеру понятно Тоже буду делать защиту на дно но материал решил взять базальт дешево и огнеупорно,у меня на v8 две ветки очень теплонагруженный мотор. Канал у тебя крутой очень много полезного и качество отличное смотреть приятно
Brilliant. Now I know what I'm gonna do for my Passat 1.8T Wagon. If I had those stretches at the edges I probably would make it look like a zipper along the outside. I'm crazy like that but well done.
greetings friend, thanks for sharing and transmitting your ideas and knowledge, I am writing to you from Venezuela and I am looking for classes to learn how to work with carbon fiber
Or for the braces you can use half inch PVC split into two pieces, so you have two 180° pieces and just lay up a double tape joint over that pvc. I'll bet if you did that, you wouldn't even need to add any more layers of fabric on the bottom. I know the feeling when you're trying to separate a lay up from the mold. You're hoping that you appled enough release agent.
It's about 2.8KG you mentioned and the original was 5.8...Is it more or less rigid than the original bonnet? Do you already have carbon strut bracing? If it's more rigid this seems like it may make sense.
Good job. However, why didn't you vacuum bag the bonnet from the start? You could have used three layers which would have made the bonnet much stiffer, would have looked neater underneath and probably be of a similar weight due to the excess resin being removed.
@@RuskiWeldFab oh nice , btw do you have any advice for spoiler making ? Im looking for an inexpensive way to make one but idk how . A fried suggested i use styrofoam and cover it in carbon mixed with kevlar but idk .
Not bad man. Those vents made me nervous. Skinning always takes too long though. Use peel ply next time, it will eliminate a lot of sanding for additional top layers. You will be able to apply resin on top of the peel ply when your done with the skinning(resin rich). This will flatten the top surface.
Did you video the remainder of the hood installation ? How you reenforced the stress point of the panel and the quick attachment clips ? Did yo paint the outer skin of the hood ? The hood looked pretty Sweet !
Wow mate that was a wicked episode! Your skills (and bravery to try stuff) are growing with each instalment. Bit more refining and you’ll be knocking out carbon Kevlar panels for all us hardcore Clio owners! Great watch this was 👏🏻👍🏻
20:00 i recon about 1kg on the nose for all that stuff. 20:16 damn, even heavier than i thought! what a saving! amazing job of it mate! been looking forward to this video since you posted the pics on the forum etc, as you say, it isn't 100% perfect, but it looks damn good, and does it's job exactly as intended! and maybe nect time, if something damages the bonnet and you need to make a new one, you now know to give more than 1 inch of border, and then it'll be perfect!
Really good informative video. I liked it a lot, especially as I am thinking about something like this for myself. 👍 One thing though, my phase 1 deskinned bonnet is lighter than your fibreglas one. 😁
@@RuskiWeldFabthanks , budy. I diy alot over the years with CF en homebrew composites 😁.. But always dreamt in that time , to ones do my VW Golf 5 GTI 240. But i´m still a bit afraid...but you and others like #banditogarage give me alot of courage and knowledge to do it 🤩
@@RuskiWeldFab you could hot glue melt a flange to the underside of the hood edge that extends and 4-5 in. Use filleting wax to seal the hood edge. Then you could vacuum bag right on the hood and achieve the same goal, but the a stronger and lighter outcome. You’d also creat a great edge to make an exact trim line. Great video, I enjoyed it
A easy way to make minds easy get fiberglass make fiberglass boxes for whatever size u need .. t hen put whatever y want a mold of in the fiberglass box and fill with high expansion foam ...or even high expansion spray rubber u can make quick molds for supper cheap compared to what a hood mold would cost...this stuff is easy if u apply all the tech we have in 2024 rubber
Hinges and stuff are heavy so my guess is like 2, possibly even 3 kilos for the hinges. Edit: I guess I’m used to heavy hinges because I drive a full size pickup with spring assisted hinges that weigh like 2 kilos *each*
always wanted to make my own panels. you've shown me its really easy and don't need the vaccum bag in some cases (rear bumper) could you do the supports with out the bag?
@@RuskiWeldFab thanks, well.... im going to order some stuff from easy composites, my bonnet is 1.43m wide by 1.15m deep. hoping 1200mm is good as thats the only size they do on the kevlar,
depends how you want it done. if a simple skin like i did in this video, around £700 mark, if you want full replica with the inside structure than this will need double mould and could cost £2000+ as a one off
yes and no. if it was a metal to begin with with good pain. than yes 100% just wash the agent off with water. mine was fibergalss and some paint peeled of. but it wasnt in perfect condition to begin with. so yes its more yes than no haha. NO resin stuck to it.
@@RuskiWeldFab I did it - thanks to watching you make your bonnet, I made a sunroof panel to replace my pano roof. Original was 30kg - new CF panel is 7kg 👍 Now I am making even more panels! Keep up the great work on your channel
Honestly i think this is the last place i would try to save weight when your hoos is that light, my hood is from a 87 190e si it is heavy, and would benefit more from acarbon hood but its cool non the less
I have been thinking on changing my explorer hood to something lighter maybe a carbon fiber or a Plexiglas hood, but I wonder how these materials stand up to heat and warpage? With gas prices booming I have been brain storming how to make the explorer lighter to save on mpg of gas. Can you use the original hood as the mold?
Put some heat reflective material on the underside of your hood when you make it. I did this with my carbon strut brace and it has held up to 4 years of daily driving
очень круто я какраз собираю тойоту чейзер в 100 кузове и у меня очень жостко стал вопрос по облегчению . подскажите пожалуйста где можно приобрести кивлар корбон и углеродное полотно
@@RuskiWeldFab А в штатах ! ? переправить в рф не проблема для меня проблема в самих ватериалах и да подпись и лайк видоса супер за одно и инглиш выучу )))
So your telling me adding some special liquid that will let you separate the carbon fiber layers on top making it a copy or half a copy ? Hmmmmmmmmmm I must try this with quarter panels and a widebody
I explained before, numerous times. Makes the part bigger by the thickness of the part. That is few millimetres. This is not space shuttle we don’t work to tight tolerance. It fits absolutely fine
Cloth should be rotated 45 deg every layer. Why did you vacuum bag after the main 2 layers were cured? You really only need to do that if you are doing multiple layers and you do it before its cured.
You need to make a mold first. Also he should have removed the vents/mounts. Also when you're making it you should add supports in-between layers on bottom after main Layers
It's because of people like you that help people like us learn new skills. You inspire those that think they couldn't do it before. Thank you for that.
So nice of you
Thank you for sharing your knowledge,most people don't, your a saint
I ran 1 inch strips of insulation foam for the cross braces and covered that with a layer of carbon fiber to give the braces some three dimensional structure.....much stronger than just flat strips of carbon cloth and insignificant weight addition.
thats. a great tip! thanks
@@RuskiWeldFab Balsa wood also works well....
Geometry under the hood will yield the strongest part while still saving a ton of weight. Even something as simple as cutting the cardboard tube from an old paper towel roll in half length wise and laying the end to end provides a easy form you can lay your cf over and get the most out of it. Foam works too as long as you aren’t using polyester resins that will eat it. OEM hoods have the ribbing for this very reason, max rigidity with minimal material. Overall, love the video and great work. Love seeing people choose to do it themselves to get something special and one of a kind versus spending thousands on a super price inflated cookie cutter hood.
you are absolutly right! will be making my next hood just like that
I've done the same for already 5 panels of my car, I do 1 ply of 300g/sqm carbon fiber on the original panel, I put epoxy there, then I put 2mm or 3mm nomex honeycomb, then another 300g carbon F ply. Then epoxy again, then peel ply, perforated release film, then breather then vac bag. From experience I suggest that you bag only the top of the panel and not all of it because you will crush the original panel. Also a pressure of 0.25 bar is great to not crush the core. you can expect 1.7kg/sqm in average. It's faster than your technique and way stiffer, more prone to damage also but for a track or road car it's great. To seal the core you can use tape (like they do in aerospace) or thickened resin. For bumpers carbon dynnema or twarron is also great ! I do 3 ply of 300g/sqm also but I use a squeegee and I'm not scare to go a little resin poor for better bending with less cracks.
I's always very fun to do or watch thanks
I’ve watched this video loads of times now and gathered up the courage to buy some carbon fibre and will be attempting this with some front wings. Thanks for the inspiration and really good vids!
You can do it!
I really enjoyed this video, I have been making a few small CF panels (steadily getting bigger) with pleasing results. I wanted to do exactly what you have done here to make a CF bonnet for my supercharged van (without making a mould) and this has been a great inspiration. Thank you RuskiWeldfab!
Glad it was helpful!
Outstanding! Thanks for showing us this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love how you share your failures, great video.
Cheers.! Only through failures we learn
Incoming: I made a Kevlar shell for the Clio😂
You know thats not a joke..
😂
Question if u make the original hood and add layers to it to make the top and separate bottom wouldn't it be slightly bigger then the original hood
@@seanoneill3620 yeah technically it would be, right? But they still fit good. Kind of weird
@@RuskiWeldFab how many layers was the original 5Kg fiberglass hood?
And have you tried 2 layers of 200 carbon kevlar for ultimate weight saving or it will be too flimsy?
Nicely done video... I liked how yu fixed ur mistake n actually ended up making it stronger.... keep it man ... lookin forward 2 ur nxt project..... its videos like this that give me confidence 2 start showcasing some of my work .... not everything is 4 everybody... but ppl with dreams need a gentle push .... thanks again
Appreciate it!
I was thinking of the same idea -- to use the original as the mold to save money. Most vehicles have a ~3/16 gap between body fairings, so fitting shouldn't be much of an issue. Depending on how much your time it's worth, a cheap fiberglass mold may end up saving you more time, which equals $_$. I would also only create the mold for the inner support structures for strength/mounting.
you have the right idea! the way i did it, works perfect for the race car.
This was an awesome video.... I have a 2016 EcoBoost Mustang that I'm building... I have tons of carbon fiber inside and out... that is the one thing I'm still needing is a carbon hood... I'm wanting a 4 inch cowl hood with two side vents.. I also like the terminator style hood.. Great video and you definitely cut the weight down . Keep up the good work...
cheers fella
The hood on our ecoboost is heavy af lol
@@Str8UpRevving , that is no lie bro
Wow! Amazing for sure. I might have to give it a try.
Please do!
Oh wow… this is amazing, and I actually do feel like I could accomplish this.
Why you use the absorption mat only with the reinforcements?
Is there a better way?
Is it possible to do a whole complete front clip. Hood/finders and all in 1
yeah anything is possible i suppose. but not very practical.
nice job _ I am happy that you are impressed with yourself ;) - it is truly live and learn and if you had cut the material large enough, You could have folded all the edges around without cutting it, giving the edges a nice round finished look, plus the folded layer would have provided additional strength - Finally since you used an existing exterior of a bonnet, the question remains to see if it fits is it should since it could be a tiny bit larger than the original by several millimeters - Since this was from a year ago, you probably don't care about my comment any more.
Ha ha I care about every comment! Thank you. And no increase in size doesn’t matter on race car. Few mm is nothing
Thanks for the videos
Glad you like them!
Could you have done the same process to the underside of the factory hood and somehow bonded the two panels together?
yes. but extra weight.
Вітаю. Друже, чудово вийшло. Дивився відео і радів разом з тобою 😊.
Молодець. Досяг мети 👍🏻👏🏻
Muy buen trabajo, un abrazo desde Perú
¡muchas gracias!
I dont know you can make something like this without mold. Thanks mate
You can
metal conducts heat much better than fiber glass, carbon fiber or kevlar, after replacing the bonnet with this will the engine get very hot?
dont think this would be a contributing factor
Excellent job
Thank you! Cheers!
Best place to get Kevlar fabric please
Thank you
There should be links in description. Check it out
great vid dude, always figured this could be done this way. can't wait to try it myself
Go for it!
Ilya, would a litre of resin be enough for a bonnet a similar size to your one? Plain or twill weave?
twill and 1L might be very tight
@@RuskiWeldFab thanks
Love carbon kevlar it's easy to use/lay but it's hard to cut without some bloody good scissors.
Great video,
Thanks!
Absolutely amazing job buddy. I cant wait to see it and then you can make mine..
thank you! just need another bonnet.
Awesome video. Love the honesty about the project but it really did come out awesome. I am working up the courage to make some parts for my Focus and this helps!!!!
You can do it! and thank you!
Can you wet send the resin thats cured to get rid of the orange peel or is another method recommended ?
yes you can send it easy. i would start with 600grit
I know it's an old video but thanks for it!
Welcome
I have a question. Wouldn't be better for weight, practicallity and easier to work on the car when the front body panels are one piece and is holding on quick release buttons? What is your opinion on this?
Very good question. Simple answer is YES and NO. Sometimes you only need to open the bonnet. Will be a pain to remove entire front end. Expensive to make as this will require a huge 5/6 piece mould. Won’t be cheap. Also being so big there is issues of storing it. Once removed you need to keep it somewhere safe. Carbon is more fragile than you might think. So yeah there are possitives and negatives. But usualy full front end as one part is reserved for fully space framed cars
@@RuskiWeldFab Thank for your quick and honest answer!
watchign again hehe
easy! you can do it!
Круто первое такое видео! Давно думал так сделать все отговаривали,деталь будет больше и подобное. Но как очень быстрый бюджетный вариант клёвая штука
Деталь ровно больше на толщину самой детали. Как правило не больше 1-2мм для корча точно норм!
@@RuskiWeldFab по размеру понятно
Тоже буду делать защиту на дно но материал решил взять базальт дешево и огнеупорно,у меня на v8 две ветки очень теплонагруженный мотор.
Канал у тебя крутой очень много полезного и качество отличное смотреть приятно
Спасибо!
Fantastic video! thanks for sharing. Can you please share links to all the material used in this project? Also, how is it holding up after a year?
I think I listed everything in the description? And it perfect! Still going strong no issues at all!
Brilliant. Now I know what I'm gonna do for my Passat 1.8T Wagon. If I had those stretches at the edges I probably would make it look like a zipper along the outside. I'm crazy like that but well done.
Go for it!
Interesting maybe i can make some copys in carbon from some of my panels too. Looks great!
You should!
Great video,keep it up!*
Thanks, will do!
greetings friend, thanks for sharing and transmitting your ideas and knowledge, I am writing to you from Venezuela and I am looking for classes to learn how to work with carbon fiber
Enjoying your videos, you have a great presentation and delivery. Giving me ideas for my project car....
Awesome, thank you!
If it would be a metal bonnet would it release better? And would polishing it before help to?
yes to both. to be fair it release rather easy.
Or for the braces you can use half inch PVC split into two pieces, so you have two 180° pieces and just lay up a double tape joint over that pvc. I'll bet if you did that, you wouldn't even need to add any more layers of fabric on the bottom.
I know the feeling when you're trying to separate a lay up from the mold. You're hoping that you appled enough release agent.
great great tip! thank you
I’d like to do this also but question. Why Kevlar on top vs carbon on top?
It’s more abrasion resistant and looks. Tired of carbon look
@@RuskiWeldFab Gottcha. Thanks
Got to say dude really impressed with your work, giving me a little inspiration and some ideas to take back to my 182 🤙 keep it up
Thanks! Will do!
I mean it’s not for a show car, it is light, functional and interesting. You should be happy.
function over form when it comes to racecars. always
Where do you get a vacuum bag
Easy composites
Any reason you did not vacuum- bag the original lay
Why wouldn’t you trim before you remove your part?
you can if you want. but risking to damage the mould/plug
It was worth the wait ;) Bonnet looks great!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed that
It's about 2.8KG you mentioned and the original was 5.8...Is it more or less rigid than the original bonnet? Do you already have carbon strut bracing? If it's more rigid this seems like it may make sense.
Good job. However, why didn't you vacuum bag the bonnet from the start? You could have used three layers which would have made the bonnet much stiffer, would have looked neater underneath and probably be of a similar weight due to the excess resin being removed.
I would love to do this! Where do you get all the supplies, also a vacuum bag that big?
@easycomposites
You should make some supports for better rigidity . Like maybe tubular supports and some steel where your gonna drill the hood latches and hinges .
thanks but i think its good as it is. it works. and been tested at 140 mph.. all good
@@RuskiWeldFab oh nice , btw do you have any advice for spoiler making ?
Im looking for an inexpensive way to make one but idk how .
A fried suggested i use styrofoam and cover it in carbon mixed with kevlar but idk .
@@nightspirit1085 In case you haven't found this out yet, a lot of resins will melt styrofoam / polystyrene so are not compatible.
@@SerenaBluee the foam will be covered in a plastic layer so it wont be a problem . Ive got that sorted out already but thanks for the heads up .
Hello, may I ask how to fix the hood so that it won't fly away? Can you teach me? Thank you^^
quite simple. you need at least 4 latches. like aerocatch
Very inspiring, I will have a go. Do you have a parts list of everything that you used?
In the description i believe.
You explain things so simply mate , love watching your videos.
Where do you purchase the pink vacuum bags from and what type of pump do you use ?
Not bad man. Those vents made me nervous. Skinning always takes too long though. Use peel ply next time, it will eliminate a lot of sanding for additional top layers. You will be able to apply resin on top of the peel ply when your done with the skinning(resin rich). This will flatten the top surface.
Thanks for the tip
Did you video the remainder of the hood installation ? How you reenforced the stress point of the panel and the quick attachment clips ?
Did yo paint the outer skin of the hood ?
The hood looked pretty Sweet !
its just held by 4 aerocatch's . no it will not be painted
Wow mate that was a wicked episode! Your skills (and bravery to try stuff) are growing with each instalment. Bit more refining and you’ll be knocking out carbon Kevlar panels for all us hardcore Clio owners! Great watch this was 👏🏻👍🏻
Thank you!!! It was brave I admit. Was risking loosing the old bonnet haha
Para dentro de poco sacare video exacto esta muy bien el material y la forma solo te falta pulir algunos detalles ke no sabes
20:00 i recon about 1kg on the nose for all that stuff.
20:16 damn, even heavier than i thought! what a saving!
amazing job of it mate! been looking forward to this video since you posted the pics on the forum etc, as you say, it isn't 100% perfect, but it looks damn good, and does it's job exactly as intended! and maybe nect time, if something damages the bonnet and you need to make a new one, you now know to give more than 1 inch of border, and then it'll be perfect!
Thank you!! Yes live and learn! Next one will be miles better!
NEXT EPISODE : I CARBON KEVLAR'D MYSELF 😂
Lol would not be surprised lol it’s very addictive
Shoulda done two layers of carbon fiber! I’m just obsessed with how it looks 😂 or maybe cover all that in forged carbon
Cool idea!
Do you need to heat it up with vaccum tho?
no you dont need to. unless prepreg
Really good informative video. I liked it a lot, especially as I am thinking about something like this for myself. 👍
One thing though, my phase 1 deskinned bonnet is lighter than your fibreglas one. 😁
yeah i was supprised how heavy it was. but than again its double skin
Hihi i know the ´reveal´ moment is soooo satisfiying when it looks like that .
Well done budy , got le subed !
Grtz from the netherlands Johny geerts
cheers! welcome to the club!
@@RuskiWeldFabthanks , budy.
I diy alot over the years with CF en homebrew composites 😁..
But always dreamt in that time , to ones do my VW Golf 5 GTI 240.
But i´m still a bit afraid...but you and others like #banditogarage give me alot of courage and knowledge to do it 🤩
Good work. If you had used the vac bagging for the 1st stage it would be even stronger and lighter still.
yes but since it wasnt done in the mould i couldnt put peel ply on to the cosmetic layer...
@@RuskiWeldFab you could hot glue melt a flange to the underside of the hood edge that extends and 4-5 in. Use filleting wax to seal the hood edge. Then you could vacuum bag right on the hood and achieve the same goal, but the a stronger and lighter outcome. You’d also creat a great edge to make an exact trim line. Great video, I enjoyed it
@@RuskiWeldFab Understood, but you definitely can. If it's a track car car and your ultimate aim is weight, there is no cosmetic layer.
@@doomsday751 Wont the vacuum crush the glued flange with the bag being drawn inward?
Awesome
cheers!
Where did you get your carbon fiber fabric?
@easycomposites have a look in the description. all the info is there friend
A easy way to make minds easy get fiberglass make fiberglass boxes for whatever size u need .. t hen put whatever y want a mold of in the fiberglass box and fill with high expansion foam ...or even high expansion spray rubber u can make quick molds for supper cheap compared to what a hood mold would cost...this stuff is easy if u apply all the tech we have in 2024 rubber
must try that!
Hinges and stuff are heavy so my guess is like 2, possibly even 3 kilos for the hinges.
Edit: I guess I’m used to heavy hinges because I drive a full size pickup with spring assisted hinges that weigh like 2 kilos *each*
always wanted to make my own panels.
you've shown me its really easy and don't need the vaccum bag in some cases (rear bumper)
could you do the supports with out the bag?
yes anything can be done just wet laying it. bagging just compresses it better and gets rid of the extra resin.
@@RuskiWeldFab thanks, well.... im going to order some stuff from easy composites, my bonnet is 1.43m wide by 1.15m deep. hoping 1200mm is good as thats the only size they do on the kevlar,
Nice video, only one problem with this method, is that the bonnet/hood will be the thickness of the fiber bigger then the original
Yes, you are right! but since its only 2 layers its not noticable.
How much would somebody charge me to make a hood for a 2000 Honda insight?
depends how you want it done. if a simple skin like i did in this video, around £700 mark, if you want full replica with the inside structure than this will need double mould and could cost £2000+ as a one off
Good video - can you clean up the original bonnet after you’ve used it as the mould?
yes and no. if it was a metal to begin with with good pain. than yes 100% just wash the agent off with water. mine was fibergalss and some paint peeled of. but it wasnt in perfect condition to begin with. so yes its more yes than no haha. NO resin stuck to it.
@@RuskiWeldFab cheers. Mine is metal but is more complex shape (Mini R53) - maybe I will try one day 😉
do it!!! so addictive! and easy! just dont rush
@@RuskiWeldFab I did it - thanks to watching you make your bonnet, I made a sunroof panel to replace my pano roof. Original was 30kg - new CF panel is 7kg 👍 Now I am making even more panels! Keep up the great work on your channel
Did you notice any offset since you used this way instead of making mold
In all honesty no I haven’t. It’s only few mm anyways.
@@RuskiWeldFab thanks
Honestly i think this is the last place i would try to save weight when your hoos is that light, my hood is from a 87 190e si it is heavy, and would benefit more from acarbon hood but its cool non the less
I have been thinking on changing my explorer hood to something lighter maybe a carbon fiber or a Plexiglas hood, but I wonder how these materials stand up to heat and warpage? With gas prices booming I have been brain storming how to make the explorer lighter to save on mpg of gas. Can you use the original hood as the mold?
Put some heat reflective material on the underside of your hood when you make it. I did this with my carbon strut brace and it has held up to 4 years of daily driving
How much this cost?
Drop me a message on Instagram
очень круто я какраз собираю тойоту чейзер в 100 кузове и у меня очень жостко стал вопрос по облегчению . подскажите пожалуйста где можно приобрести кивлар корбон и углеродное полотно
к сожалению где купить в России я помочь не могу. не знаю
@@RuskiWeldFab А в штатах ! ? переправить в рф не проблема для меня проблема в самих ватериалах и да подпись и лайк видоса супер за одно и инглиш выучу )))
Are you based in England? I wanted to do the same to my car... Are you willing to do a mould and roof for my car? MG ZR...
this will cost a lot of money!
This just works with flat bonnets, but great Idea!
agree, be more difficult with big curves. most bonnets are flat anyways
@@RuskiWeldFab not more difficult, it will be slightly bigger in measure
How to install the bracket??
What bracket?
The 1.5kg bracket how to install to the carbon hood bonnet
Remove the bracket.
two hinges? 20 pounds for each hinge, 10 pounds for the entire bolts. brackets 5 pounds per bracket.
Who still counts in pounds? 😂🤪
Nice video! Do you have an estimative weight of the whole car?
Around 900 I think. Aim for 860
So your telling me adding some special liquid that will let you separate the carbon fiber layers on top making it a copy or half a copy ? Hmmmmmmmmmm I must try this with quarter panels and a widebody
This wont fit right. You need to make a mold first so it is the same dimension and not oversized
I explained before, numerous times. Makes the part bigger by the thickness of the part. That is few millimetres. This is not space shuttle we don’t work to tight tolerance. It fits absolutely fine
amazing how much would you charge to make me one for my car lol
drop me a message on socials and we can discuss
@@RuskiWeldFab can you send me a link to your social thank you very much
@@checodogface same name on all of them
@@RuskiWeldFab I found you thank you
I wish I had the testicular fortitude to do this on my Chevy Nova.
just do it! its easy!
@@RuskiWeldFab the material is quite pricey
Cloth should be rotated 45 deg every layer. Why did you vacuum bag after the main 2 layers were cured? You really only need to do that if you are doing multiple layers and you do it before its cured.
great tips. thanks
Hi, I am satheesh from mysore. Can u guide me further
How can I help you?
ниплоха, надо будет себе такой же сделать))
откуда заказывал изикомпозитовский кит, что доставили в россию?
это покупалось в великобритании
Would you not of been better putting another full peice of fibre over for strengh and too hide imperfections
absolutely. but more weight. we dont like weight haha
👍👍
👍
1.6KG
very close
1,46 kg?
you win a cookie!
@@RuskiWeldFab такой ты бессердечный всем лафики ставишь
3kg
After watching this it’s inspired me not to try it cause I know il fuxk it up just the same 😅
You need to make a mold first. Also he should have removed the vents/mounts. Also when you're making it you should add supports in-between layers on bottom after main Layers