You can do 12v or 24v, up to you. For the starter get a Delco 42MT with a 12 tooth pinion gear, clockwise rotation Swap out the end frame housing with a Delco 198854. If you have to drill your bellhousing, it's a 3-5/8" hole. This is only for D4's with the D315 engine, can't speak for the earlier engine.
Thia has brought many memories of helping my father work on on cats. He was a heavy equipment mechanic in Alaska for over 65 years. I started in the operating engineers but 57 years ago I became an aircraft mechanic. I still work on equipment that I own but it,s always nice to see other people learning. I think you are doing just fine. That was a fairly new piece if equipment when I was helping dad. They were still using a lot of cable rigs back then. We had a cable 7. You could really clear land with it.
Did your dad run across Dick Proenneke? He was a HE mechanic in one of the cities (Anchorage?) He’s also a fabulous outdoorsman in AK history. You may know of his exploits. Too bad he’s passed away.
John you are right makes me think of helping my dad with his D-6 s . He was an Opeartor but he was old school. If you run it you could fix it . I’m 64, running a GPS D-8T on a job right now . Matt, you’re doing a good job after doing all this when you get up in the seat to run this sweet little tractor you will know what every piece of it is doing and have good idea of what it should sound like as that piece is doing it’s job. There is nothing as good as fixing something like this and then using it to do work for yourself.
On cast iron, the main rule is use a nickel base material to repair it (if) you’re going to machine it ! But what you did and I’ve used stainless or even a 7018 or even braze it if you’re just going to grind it! Anything that’s not nickel hardens the cast and it’s tough to machine and that’s what I’ve been taught from working in a machine shop/ fabrication shop for 37 years my friend! Don’t worry about what others say, I’ve taken a broken manifold out of my 240, straight 6 ford! And it’s exhaust and intake together, taken it out in two pieces and welded it up with stainless stick rods plus put a carbon steel patch on where the piece was missing about 2x2 ! Welded it up and put it back in having never broken again until I sold it 20 years later! You did good brother! 👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🇺🇸
Kirk, when I was in weld school 30 years ago they tried to preach proper procedure for cast welding into our brains. I like to hear from machinist like you because dispite what I was taught in school I have successfully welded cast and cast to steel several times “unconventionally”. I prefer to braze but I have also used nomacast, 7018, even 6011. Just like anything else practice...teach’s us when we are lucky.
100% agree... Matt is 'humble' enough to actually say "I don't know for sure", but still has enough common sense to be able to say "That's just not right" Quite refreshing!
I'm getting red line anxiety from your videos. I could watch an hour long video and soon I'll be getting yellow paint anxiety so I hope you have another project lined up. Nah, I'm not selfish. You rock buddy.
One of my old bosses told me after watching you, his business would still be if he had a mechanic like you! Matt, I myself am extremely proud of your work and although it means little to you, I too learned most of the repairs by doing the repairs. I am proud to say in over forty years of pulling on the handle of a wrench I had a comeback one time to find it wasn't my fault for my work, I just didn't catch a crack that turned south on me. You are my "Porn" of stuff I watch and see/enjoy go together... so happy I found your channel. I would bet nickels to dog dodo, Clint from C and C equipment would hire you damn quick
A word of advice to you on just priming those areas - plain old primer for the most part doesn’t stop rust, it’s porous in nature. The actual paint is what seals the metal and prevents the rust, so maybe it would be better to go ahead and paint those areas you’re going to cover with other parts like the fenders, battery box, etc.
When it is all said and done, put a nice padded comfy seat in the cockpit, enclose the cockpit, and run a heater core. (I'm old. I need heat). ;-) If you want to be Grizzley Adams, well that's OK too. It wouldn't have bothered me when I was young. I rode my motorcycle all year long. 17 miles to work. In January. In New England. This will work out for you, Matt, I see your knowledge and perception of the things that need to be, to make this work. If something breaks, you learn from it. I don't see anything that would cause that. Your approach is better than many engineers I have known.
You're doing a great job, Matt! I really enjoyed the humor - such as " the wire wheel debris will bounce harmlessly off my face"! The cracked case repair looked great to me - I'd be proud if I had done that good of a job.
I know it takes time to edit your videos but they are fascinating. What I find so interesting is that you make it look as if someone like myself could do a restoration. But I sure that there is a ton of background work that we don't see. Keep the good work.
You are smashing the 'put-together' Billy. Keep your learning going strong, you and Charlie keep on with your coolness and I'll keep watching. Good job Billy and I'm thinking you can see the bright light at the end of the tunnel.
After basically binge watching to hear I think I can safely say that despite your lack of experience, you are the best mechanic that has ever touched this machine for most of its life. Cutting corners was apparently the name of the game for this poor thing until you got hold of it. Enjoying the series quite a bit so far! Cannot wait till I get to the last video.
Nice way to finish up my night just before I go to sleep. Been waiting to catch this episode. As far as tools go. Made in Japan or Germany is a good sign. Both countries have excellent quality when it comes to machined parts and hardware. Taiwan also makes pretty good machined parts and hardware. I prefer electronic components from those 3 as well. Especially capacitors from Japan, Taiwan or South Korea. Absolutely never from China. Electronic components are pure unadulterated junk from there. It's China that your lucky if you get quality machined parts or hardware period.
99 percent sure that's cast STEEL, Iron is for fireplaces lol so your weld is fine.. iron wont make twisty pieces like that when u drill or tap like yours did, its more powdery.. 7018 wd be the ticket but that wire will hold just fine! Tx for the hard hillbilly work, very entertaining 👏 can't WAIT to see it done. BTW those hf dolley wheels dont take much to twist out, please get better dolly's! That engine is waaaay dangerous on those tiny wheels. Also if u are holding coolant in u might wanna go to 1/4 inch plate maybe.. but it may hold like u did it :)
Matt~, I've been following along since right before you bought the D4. You are a good man Charlie Brown! My first dozer work was an Allis-Chalmers gravity straight blade D3/D4 size. You're doing an excellent job, sir. I'm learning some things from this build. Thank you for filming this. Hey to Charlie. Thanx Thom...
It appears that the flywheel ring gear has the tapered part of the teeth facing the rear? Does the ring gear need to be flipped so the starter drive engages the tapered side of the ring gear for proper engagement? I thought I would mention it so you could make sure everything was correct while the engine is still out. Very nice project that you are working on.
You're doing a great job! I'm really enjoying the series and I get get a little more excited after each video to see this come together. Thanks for the videos.
Very well thought out repair process. Excellent minor welds. At the abandoned sump, as to the plugged off passage, near top left as from driver view to flywheel housing, I often use simple silicon adhesive to stiff cardboard....as to prevent dirt. I am sure a non issue, but dirt buildup at such a passage will spill as overflow at some future dismantle. Easy to prevent. Simply seal the cavity. I am not certain what the book will recommend, but at starter nose, I often use just a touch of moly grease, as a good quality, to the shaft where bendix force at gear, slides to engagement. Clean and re apply at any starter unit pull for whatever reason. At throttle linkage, bell crank...I think the fitting demand is as *full throttle with also, full cut off as shut down. But the bends to the existing throw were interesting. And the weld as to non adjustment likely came from vibration...suspect? That was a curious bit. I have seen powered units where out of range adjust at "cut off" required clutch engage to "stall" at method to shut down. So a key bit for operator need. Your attention to the manual, well executed prep to surface and fasteners will pay you back with long, trouble free operation. Think forward to care at the large weights as engine, winch and beware any potential for break as rigging. If this machine used in brush, timber, recall that long splinters, long limbs can reach cab and operator area. Very often, shields and armored areas as near deck are constructed and placed to prevent that hazard. It is not just as operator, but controls can be damaged and/or jammed by such debrie. Very much interested in the day, "cat yellow begins to move about to your advantage. Regards from Wa. State. McGary Absolutely cheering for you and Charlie .
Great Video. Doing great with background and explaining what you are doing. You are doing great on "picking your battles" and what to get "close enough".
GREAT JOB MATT REALLY ENJOY YOUR VIEDOS. YOU DEMONSTRATE VERY GOOD PROBLEM SOLVING SKILLS AND GOOD COMMON SENSE. CAN'T WAIT TO SEE YOU FIRE THE OLD GRIL UP AND PLOW SOME GROUND! AWESOME JOB AND GOOD LUCK, LOOKING FORWARD TO THE NEXT VIEDOS
It is quite impressive the amount of weight that those furniture movers can hold, considering the size of the wheels. I have enjoyed all your videos on this rebuild.
I have really enjoyed this series and have great respect for your approach, skills, and fortitude! I know that making videos along the way slows work down, but I am sure happy that you take the time. I have a D2 5U, a D4D 78A, and a "new" D4 7U with toolbar coming soon. Also, thanks for the mention of ACMOC - that board is super helpful and informative for Caterpillar fans and owners.
I like your thinking and process of approaching problems you run into. You are learning, as well as most people watching , I would guess, so if a n issue does show itself you will know where to go and how to best get to resolve it. Nice thing about this whole build that you know exactly what you have when you are done. Thanks for the video I am enjoying the process.
*- Matt, your sense of humor helps me a lot, so keep it up, please.* *- I think your welding was they right 'fix'. Great job struggling though this for us.* *- Yes, getting any right size bold and cutting the head off to make a mounting pin for the fly wheel would be smart.* *- Yes, I wondered did you re-thread the holes before your first mounting.* *- Lucky is that you got a chance to recognize about cleaning up the press-fit surfaces.* *- Good job. Far better then I could easily do, that is for sure.*
Hope your keeping all your research, might come in handy if I decide to restore ours, or I could just load it up and haul it your way now that you're all practiced up!😄
Hi Matt, I've seen every D4 episode. Here in the UK I overhaul the starter motor for D4 called a 50MT. The solenoid is a weak point but is really economical to replace.
I'd say that you don't really have to worry too much about the backlash on the generator because it's not a drive component and it's a low torque item.
For the Size dozer they are the D4 Cat work pretty well in good condition. I expect you'll have a very good machine and hope you enjoy using it. And you're right about the decompressor too. I recall some dizels were made with auto decomp until an rpm was reached under starter, which then slammed the compression relief off chuff chuff bang and they'd kick off. Good movie dude, getting anxious for the next one after a time.
My suggestion for blocking that coolant passage would be to mic it and find a brass freeze plug that diameter and hammer it home with some red locktite.
awesome job ya those guide pins for the flywheel are great, did an old 40's Allis Chamler tractor engine R&R. Hey to be silly todays world NO COMSENSE will be tolerated. Keep them coming awesome to see it rolling under power
Another good episode of the Charlie and Matt show. Glad to see that you are making progress with Charlie’s help of course. You ought to put some fuel to that motor and see if it starts and runs while it’s out. I know I couldn’t resist doing that if I were there. Anyway give Charlie lots of love and treats from us here in Texas.
What do you think about putting an ounce of Sea Foam in each cylinder to help free up the rings ? Perhaps some experienced viewers can comment on this idea. I really enjoy your thought process and videos. I put Sea Foam in my 45 year old small truck diesel engine (SD22) and the smoking cleared up and putting some in the fuel helped clean the injectors therefore smoothing out the engine performance. My experience with diesel engines is limited to only this engine, but I have always really liked them. What I have is a hobby truck, I swapped the original gas engine with a Nissan diesel engine. I really enjoy putting around in it. The torque is outstanding. Sam Allen
I enjoy your videos. I have an old IHC 125C I'm working on but nothing so involved as your project. You think the way an engineer SHOULD think. I've worked with many who could calculate a gnats ass to within .00000000001 of a micron but couldn't explain what that had to do with the equipment we were working on. Common sense takes a person a long, long way. Charlie makes a good shop assistant! You just need a cat or three to liven things up.
Hey man. I am watching every of your videos fro germany. I really appreciate that you are contantly explayning what yoiu are doin and why. Really great content.
Great job Matt! You have more skill than you give yourself credit for. If your really obsessed with the generator runout (which it doesn’t sound like you are) you could put your dial indicator on the vice grips at the radius distance of gear to get a good reading.
Hi you are doing a real through job…I would highly suggest replacing the outdated behemoth direct drive starter with a permanent magnet gear reduction starter…I replace all mine with this modern type..1/3 the size and so much less of a current draw..the cranking speed is much greater which Is a great advantage in starting older equipment…local guy..affordable starters in North .Carolina…and new at less than getting the old starter rebuilt…good luck
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | เปิดใจ "อาจารย์ เบียร์ ฅนตื่นธรรม" นักสนทนาธรรมสายดุดัน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqaBI_mnoDk/mqdefault.jpg)
Would like to know what brand, model, Volt's your starter is. Would like to convert one of my D4's
Thanks
You can do 12v or 24v, up to you. For the starter get a Delco 42MT with a 12 tooth pinion gear, clockwise rotation Swap out the end frame housing with a Delco 198854. If you have to drill your bellhousing, it's a 3-5/8" hole. This is only for D4's with the D315 engine, can't speak for the earlier engine.
If... the housing is machined for a starter motor.
There's like nothing better than restoring a machine built 70 years ago. Then it run into like it's brand new. Keep up the great work Matt!!
Thia has brought many memories of helping my father work on on cats. He was a heavy equipment mechanic in Alaska for over 65 years. I started in the operating engineers but 57 years ago I became an aircraft mechanic. I still work on equipment that I own but it,s always nice to see other people learning. I think you are doing just fine. That was a fairly new piece if equipment when I was helping dad. They were still using a lot of cable rigs back then. We had a cable 7. You could really clear land with it.
Did your dad run across Dick Proenneke? He was a HE mechanic in one of the cities (Anchorage?) He’s also a fabulous outdoorsman in AK history. You may know of his exploits. Too bad he’s passed away.
John you are right makes me think of helping my dad with his D-6 s . He was an Opeartor but he was old school. If you run it you could fix it . I’m 64, running a GPS D-8T on a job right now . Matt, you’re doing a good job after doing all this when you get up in the seat to run this sweet little tractor you will know what every piece of it is doing and have good idea of what it should sound like as that piece is doing it’s job. There is nothing as good as fixing something like this and then using it to do work for yourself.
On cast iron, the main rule is use a nickel base material to repair it (if) you’re going to machine it ! But what you did and I’ve used stainless or even a 7018 or even braze it if you’re just going to grind it! Anything that’s not nickel hardens the cast and it’s tough to machine and that’s what I’ve been taught from working in a machine shop/ fabrication shop for 37 years my friend! Don’t worry about what others say, I’ve taken a broken manifold out of my 240, straight 6 ford! And it’s exhaust and intake together, taken it out in two pieces and welded it up with stainless stick rods plus put a carbon steel patch on where the piece was missing about 2x2 ! Welded it up and put it back in having never broken again until I sold it 20 years later! You did good brother! 👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🇺🇸
Kirk, when I was in weld school 30 years ago they tried to preach proper procedure for cast welding into our brains. I like to hear from machinist like you because dispite what I was taught in school I have successfully welded cast and cast to steel several times “unconventionally”. I prefer to braze but I have also used nomacast, 7018, even 6011. Just like anything else practice...teach’s us when we are lucky.
Your patience is impressive. Thank you for being so frank in your explanations and processes, keep up the good work.
100% agree... Matt is 'humble' enough to actually say "I don't know for sure", but still has enough common sense to be able to say "That's just not right"
Quite refreshing!
Please don't underestimate yourself. You are doing a fantastic job! Thanks so much for sharing and taking us with you on this journey.
My experience has been, any taps made in Japan I have the highest quality. Really enjoyed his video series. I might be sad when it’s all finished.
I'm getting red line anxiety from your videos. I could watch an hour long video and soon I'll be getting yellow paint anxiety so I hope you have another project lined up.
Nah, I'm not selfish. You rock buddy.
Like how the dog looks at you, thinking I don't know what or why he's telling me all this, but I'm sure there will be a test!
My Hat is off to you PNH for doing the rebuild on the Dozer. Great Job keeping ur since of humor. lv ur videos.
One of my old bosses told me after watching you, his business would still be if he had a mechanic like you! Matt, I myself am extremely proud of your work and although it means little to you, I too learned most of the repairs by doing the repairs. I am proud to say in over forty years of pulling on the handle of a wrench I had a comeback one time to find it wasn't my fault for my work, I just didn't catch a crack that turned south on me. You are my "Porn" of stuff I watch and see/enjoy go together... so happy I found your channel. I would bet nickels to dog dodo, Clint from C and C equipment would hire you damn quick
thanks!
well that dude didnt pay so he gone.
I like the fact that you explain what the parts do, and why you are doing things the way you are. Learning alot from your videos.
Hello from Denmark , i like how you always find a way out off a problem and doing it with two hands
A word of advice to you on just priming those areas - plain old primer for the most part doesn’t stop rust, it’s porous in nature. The actual paint is what seals the metal and prevents the rust, so maybe it would be better to go ahead and paint those areas you’re going to cover with other parts like the fenders, battery box, etc.
I admire your patience and your persistence keep up the good work thanks a lot.
Great job Brother. Looking forward to seeing the first restart . The project is coming along awesome.
YES!!!! Looking forward to this video!!! Thanks Matt, so happy to see this post!!
When it is all said and done, put a nice padded comfy seat in the cockpit, enclose the cockpit, and run a heater core. (I'm old. I need heat). ;-) If you want to be Grizzley Adams, well that's OK too. It wouldn't have bothered me when I was young. I rode my motorcycle all year long. 17 miles to work. In January. In New England. This will work out for you, Matt, I see your knowledge and perception of the things that need to be, to make this work. If something breaks, you learn from it. I don't see anything that would cause that. Your approach is better than many engineers I have known.
I wait with anticipation for each new episode. Great stuff!
Dude, you're highly articulate and very knowledgeable across a wide variety of topics. You're no a hillbilly.
Dude you’re doing an amazing job. I’m not a professional welder but I’ve been welding for 30 years and how you handled that was just fine😎
You're doing a great job, Matt! I really enjoyed the humor - such as " the wire wheel debris will bounce harmlessly off my face"! The cracked case repair looked great to me - I'd be proud if I had done that good of a job.
Critical thinking is priceless. Great series my friend.
Another excellent video. Can't wait to see it run again.
I know it takes time to edit your videos but they are fascinating. What I find so interesting is that you make it look as if someone like myself could do a restoration. But I sure that there is a ton of background work that we don't see. Keep the good work.
way less than you think, most of the background work is cleaning parts and putting tools away!
The process is. Spot on. Forward. Very. Through. Very. Clear. Workman ship
Way too much silicone is usually just enough. Enjoying your videos. Retired mechanic and enjoy your attitude and thoroughness.
You are smashing the 'put-together' Billy. Keep your learning going strong, you and Charlie keep on with your coolness and I'll keep watching. Good job Billy and I'm thinking you can see the bright light at the end of the tunnel.
Who the Hell is Billy.........?
Love your humor I think you have sound engineering principles on the backlash..
After basically binge watching to hear I think I can safely say that despite your lack of experience, you are the best mechanic that has ever touched this machine for most of its life. Cutting corners was apparently the name of the game for this poor thing until you got hold of it. Enjoying the series quite a bit so far! Cannot wait till I get to the last video.
That was a great looking gasket scrapper.. Definitely looking forward to hearing it runnung !!
Nice way to finish up my night just before I go to sleep.
Been waiting to catch this episode.
As far as tools go.
Made in Japan or Germany is a good sign.
Both countries have excellent quality when it comes to machined parts and hardware.
Taiwan also makes pretty good machined parts and hardware.
I prefer electronic components from those 3 as well.
Especially capacitors from Japan, Taiwan or South Korea.
Absolutely never from China.
Electronic components are pure unadulterated junk from there.
It's China that your lucky if you get quality machined parts or hardware period.
Love the progress. I know nothing about these machines, but this is entertaining. You need a lathe and a mill!
Absolutely! Both are very helpful machines!
99 percent sure that's cast STEEL, Iron is for fireplaces lol so your weld is fine.. iron wont make twisty pieces like that when u drill or tap like yours did, its more powdery.. 7018 wd be the ticket but that wire will hold just fine! Tx for the hard hillbilly work, very entertaining 👏 can't WAIT to see it done. BTW those hf dolley wheels dont take much to twist out, please get better dolly's! That engine is waaaay dangerous on those tiny wheels. Also if u are holding coolant in u might wanna go to 1/4 inch plate maybe.. but it may hold like u did it :)
Matt~,
I've been following along since right before you bought the D4. You are a good man Charlie Brown! My first dozer work was an Allis-Chalmers gravity straight blade D3/D4 size. You're doing an excellent job, sir. I'm learning some things from this build. Thank you for filming this. Hey to Charlie. Thanx Thom...
Thanks Thom!
Great Video Matt. BTW make sure the adjustable pulley is free on the water pump so you can adjust the belt tension.
Good work almost home on it , like your dog it,s like the shop inspector . Keep the videos coming just very cool to relax and watch.
Hey thanks, really enjoying the series.
Good to always measure twice and cut once. Great job as always.
Another great video. Thanks Matt Friday nights are fun again!
It appears that the flywheel ring gear has the tapered part of the teeth facing the rear? Does the ring gear need to be flipped so the starter drive engages the tapered side of the ring gear for proper engagement? I thought I would mention it so you could make sure everything was correct while the engine is still out. Very nice project that you are working on.
I think both sides are tapered, but I'll double check. This flywheel was on the old engine that had the direct start.
You're doing a great job! I'm really enjoying the series and I get get a little more excited after each video to see this come together. Thanks for the videos.
Well done I look forward to seeing the next installment and can't wait to see the first start up.
Looking good Matt, thanks for sharing brother! Y’all stay safe and healthy myself friend! Always enjoy your videos brother! 👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸
I really love the pony motor starter, you never need to worry about a dead battery and nothing is better in cold weather.
Most Pony motors are electric start...
Meet too! Can hardly waIt berween episodes. These are absolutely great!
Very well thought out repair process. Excellent minor welds. At the abandoned sump, as to the plugged off passage, near top left as from driver view to flywheel housing, I often use simple silicon adhesive to stiff cardboard....as to prevent dirt. I am sure a non issue, but dirt buildup at such a passage will spill as overflow at some future dismantle. Easy to prevent. Simply seal the cavity.
I am not certain what the book will recommend, but at starter nose, I often use just a touch of moly grease, as a good quality, to the shaft where bendix force at gear, slides to engagement. Clean and re apply at any starter unit pull for whatever reason.
At throttle linkage, bell crank...I think the fitting demand is as *full throttle with also, full cut off as shut down.
But the bends to the existing throw were interesting. And the weld as to non adjustment likely came from vibration...suspect? That was a curious bit. I have seen powered units where out of range adjust at "cut off" required clutch engage to "stall" at method to shut down. So a key bit for operator need.
Your attention to the manual, well executed prep to surface and fasteners will pay you back with long, trouble free operation.
Think forward to care at the large weights as engine, winch and beware any potential for break as rigging.
If this machine used in brush, timber, recall that long splinters, long limbs can reach cab and operator area. Very often, shields and armored areas as near deck are constructed and placed to prevent that hazard.
It is not just as operator, but controls can be damaged and/or jammed by such debrie. Very much interested in the day, "cat yellow
begins to move about to your advantage. Regards from Wa. State. McGary
Absolutely cheering for you and Charlie .
Great work. I admire your patience and determination. Keep it up. Cheers
Awesome progress man! Makes me excited to work on my D4 7U, after the RD-4 is disassembled that is... Thanks!
Perfect for keeping it real.......Mammoth task to be taking on, I can't wait until I see you pushing dirt.
"You are watching a TH-cam channel with hillbilly in the name" love it haha
Great Video.
Doing great with background and explaining what you are doing.
You are doing great on "picking your battles" and what to get "close enough".
Great video, decent camera work. My question, does Charlie know he is a Caterpillar yard dog yet? I think he wanted to mark that flywheel…..
Now would be the time to make the transmission cover a two piece. Very handy for future clutch service!!
GREAT JOB MATT REALLY ENJOY YOUR VIEDOS. YOU DEMONSTRATE VERY GOOD PROBLEM SOLVING SKILLS AND GOOD COMMON SENSE. CAN'T WAIT TO SEE YOU FIRE THE OLD GRIL UP AND PLOW SOME GROUND! AWESOME JOB AND GOOD LUCK, LOOKING FORWARD TO THE NEXT VIEDOS
It is quite impressive the amount of weight that those furniture movers can hold, considering the size of the wheels. I have enjoyed all your videos on this rebuild.
I have really enjoyed this series and have great respect for your approach, skills, and fortitude! I know that making videos along the way slows work down, but I am sure happy that you take the time. I have a D2 5U, a D4D 78A, and a "new" D4 7U with toolbar coming soon. Also, thanks for the mention of ACMOC - that board is super helpful and informative for Caterpillar fans and owners.
So looking forward to the Engine install and to hear it running ! Great Progress ! Keep the Videos coming !
Thank so much Mr. Matt for another greit video for Caterpilar D4 on your workshop!!... it is safety pin!!!... God bless you for ever where you go!
I like your thinking and process of approaching problems you run into. You are learning, as well as most people watching , I would guess, so if a n issue does show itself you will know where to go and how to best get to resolve it. Nice thing about this whole build that you know exactly what you have when you are done. Thanks for the video I am enjoying the process.
Always enjoy your videos. Best wishes from New Zealand.
Dang I've been waiting for a new video for a long time!
yep
Same here!
Ted, you need to get some hobbies….
@@Chuffin_ell 😅
@@Chuffin_ell :-(
I've got tons of hobbies but I enjoy watching this project!
*- Matt, your sense of humor helps me a lot, so keep it up, please.*
*- I think your welding was they right 'fix'. Great job struggling though this for us.*
*- Yes, getting any right size bold and cutting the head off to make a mounting pin for the fly wheel would be smart.*
*- Yes, I wondered did you re-thread the holes before your first mounting.*
*- Lucky is that you got a chance to recognize about cleaning up the press-fit surfaces.*
*- Good job. Far better then I could easily do, that is for sure.*
Fantastic job. Great attention to detail. Thanks for taking us along.
great progress matt- keep up the good work - going swimmingly.
This Old Tony must have made that welding cast iron video last week for you!
I was thinking the same thing
Really enjoy your videos, lots of good stuff. Also appreciate your 4 legged partner, Charley, always willing to help...keep up the good work - Will
Hope your keeping all your research, might come in handy if I decide to restore ours, or I could just load it up and haul it your way now that you're all practiced up!😄
I find your explanations very, very good Matt. Although I know nothing about a diesel engine, I understand when you explain. Great job my friend.
Hi Matt, I've seen every D4 episode. Here in the UK I overhaul the starter motor for D4 called a 50MT. The solenoid is a weak point but is really economical to replace.
Love the channel/build. The super dry humor is great as well....
Love the video man. Always looking forward to the next one!
Hillbilly in the title. Dude you owe me a keyboard because I spit coffee on mine. Love it. 🤣
I'd say that you don't really have to worry too much about the backlash on the generator because it's not a drive component and it's a low torque item.
@@ShainAndrews I was speaking about the apparent backlash which he demonstrated in the video. Should have mentioned that.
@@merlepatterson "I was speaking about... " Translated: "What Me Worry"
For the Size dozer they are the D4 Cat work pretty well in good condition. I expect you'll have a very good machine and hope you enjoy using it. And you're right about the decompressor too. I recall some dizels were made with auto decomp until an rpm was reached under starter, which then slammed the compression relief off chuff chuff bang and they'd kick off. Good movie dude, getting anxious for the next one after a time.
An electric heat gun works really good for cold starting diesels and there's no ether danger.
My suggestion for blocking that coolant passage would be to mic it and find a brass freeze plug that diameter and hammer it home with some red locktite.
Excellent video! I like the way you go into detail on everything. Keep it up. Can’t wait to hear it running.
awesome job ya those guide pins for the flywheel are great, did an old 40's Allis Chamler tractor engine R&R. Hey to be silly todays world NO COMSENSE will be tolerated. Keep them coming awesome to see it rolling under power
Another good episode of the Charlie and Matt show. Glad to see that you are making progress with Charlie’s help of course. You ought to put some fuel to that motor and see if it starts and runs while it’s out. I know I couldn’t resist doing that if I were there. Anyway give Charlie lots of love and treats from us here in Texas.
Enjoying the Show. God Bless!
Great video Matt. I enjoy listening to you explain your thought process. Look forward to the next video.
Suggesting, you should use a cup brush for flat surfaces, the one you are using is meant more for corners or grooves.
Another good video, keep up the great work! I look forward to seeing the progress. 😊
What do you think about putting an ounce of Sea Foam in each cylinder to help free up the rings ? Perhaps some experienced viewers can comment on this idea. I really enjoy your thought process and videos. I put Sea Foam in my 45 year old small truck diesel engine (SD22) and the smoking cleared up and putting some in the fuel helped clean the injectors therefore smoothing out the engine performance. My experience with diesel engines is limited to only this engine, but I have always really liked them. What I have is a hobby truck, I swapped the original gas engine with a Nissan diesel engine. I really enjoy putting around in it. The torque is outstanding.
Sam Allen
Stay healthy and we'll see you soon.
I enjoy your videos. I have an old IHC 125C I'm working on but nothing so involved as your project.
You think the way an engineer SHOULD think. I've worked with many who could calculate a gnats ass to within .00000000001 of a micron but couldn't explain what that had to do with the equipment we were working on. Common sense takes a person a long, long way.
Charlie makes a good shop assistant! You just need a cat or three to liven things up.
Enjoy watching your restoration, Matt, you continue to amaze.
Excellent video. Great project and content. I am really enjoying it
awesome content, thank you, I'm really enjoying it
Great work!
Hindsight is 20-15!
Thanks for the content, you need to remove the cross spring to install the engine the spring is the mount on the bottom of the oil pan
Hey man. I am watching every of your videos fro germany. I really appreciate that you are contantly explayning what yoiu are doin and why. Really great content.
Great work Matt, Stay safe.
Great job Matt! You have more skill than you give yourself credit for. If your really obsessed with the generator runout (which it doesn’t sound like you are) you could put your dial indicator on the vice grips at the radius distance of gear to get a good reading.
What a great project very interesting thanks for sharing Matt 👍
Nice job. Quite a journey
Good progress. I enjoyed the vid as always.
Hi you are doing a real through job…I would highly suggest replacing the outdated behemoth direct drive starter with a permanent magnet gear reduction starter…I replace all mine with this modern type..1/3 the size and so much less of a current draw..the cranking speed is much greater which Is a great advantage in starting older equipment…local guy..affordable starters in North .Carolina…and new at less than getting the old starter rebuilt…good luck
Thanks for another great video Matt.... I really enjoy watching them
Matt....Kudos brother. You are doing a hell of a great job. I love your videos man. Excited to see your first power up cycle. Thank You.