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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video, I share my 1-year progression of learning how to boulder (Months 7-12).
I reflect on more techniques and tips that I've learnt as well as my general thought process during the last 6 months. I hope this can help you kickstart or progress in your own bouldering journey
Scarpa Vapor V (my preference) - amzn.to/47vsp7Q
Scarpa VS - amzn.to/3sMRIDa
00:00 Learning To Boulder In 6 Months (Recap)
01:24 New Shoes & Experiences
02:05 Bouldering Techniques 2.0
03:25 Months 8, 9, 10
04:32 Analysis of Cool Climb
05:15 Reflection
06:15 Projecting Climbs
07:18 Results of Final 9C Test (12 Months)
Special thanks to Matt, Ming & Catherine ❤️
Disclaimer: The above links are Amazon affiliate links. They help support the channel! Thanks
Hey TH-cam, this is a good video, it deserves more views, recommend it to more people! Will be inspiring to beginner climbers
Cheers Joshua!! I really appreciate!😊 Do you boulder often?
@@Justin_LyYes, I started in about May last year. Can’t go too hard as I’m a pianist, must protect my tendons. Just sent my first V5 the other day though so pretty stoked about that.
That overhang red tag was sick. The transition of your feet from the right to the left was so fluid and dialed in. Great video, keep up the progression.
Andrew! Mate appreciate the comment! Was an awesome climb to project and get! All the best 💪
fantastic progress! I recently hit the 1 year mark myself, its neat how progress for myself has shifted away from physicality and towards technique. There's a bit of relief that comes from knowing that I am physically fit enough to do a lot of the climbs I am stuck on. Failing them due to lacking in technique, route reading, and coordination. The bouldering community is incredibly inviting.
Thanks mate!! Appreciate the comment! Keep crushing it 💪
Started climbing almost 3 years ago. Progressed up to higher end of v5-v6 within first few months like you and then I stopped going regularly.
Just 2-3 months ago I have started climbing again. My initial progress had backtracked a little, probably actually lost a bit of the climbing specific strength. Maybe back to about v4-v5.
But after 3 months I’m already starting to feel like I’ve caught up or even slightly exceeded that threshold and I’m excited to see how much I can progress more in this second “first year of climbing”😂
Congrats Jakub!! That's a great effort!! Keep it up and you'll easily get back to where you were! All the best! 🙏
Hey that's awesome, I started climbing in December of 2022 (so about 13 months now) and I feel like ive had a pretty similar journey to you, with progressing to V5s after not so long and then spending a good amount of time working that grade, and only recently starting to break into V6s a little bit more on the project side. A couple weeks ago i started the "Hangboard 2 times a day" routine from Emil Abrahamsson's channel and after the first week i didnt notice much but from the second week to now I've felt much stronger in my fingers and can now manage quite a few more V6s than I used to be able to do. Not like some miracle week improvement but I think adding that tiny bit of training (20 mins a day) has helped push through the climbs a little bit more. This was an awesome video to watch and I'm eager to see what happens in your second year! Subbed!
This is really good progress for 1 year! Keep it up!
Cheers Deci!! Appreciate the kind words!! 🔥
this is really high quality and when I was about to look at the view and sub counts I was expecting really high numbers be I was supprised to see how low they where more people should watch and sub
Thanks mate!! Appreciate the support! 😁
Hello, nice video and solid progression - this is really big for only 1 year of practice.
V6 is 6C(/7A to be gentle) - bouldering.
9c test is a fun thing to do but it is not exact science. This is an easy and fun way to give an approximate level of your strenght but it is not correlated to your climb level. There are really strong non-climbers who can have huge 9c test score and not climb above v4.
9C test main problem is to give a result while considering you have reached perfect technique. Technique is a BIG part of your climbing journey to higher grades.
Keep up the good work! Never stop climbing :D
Thanks so much mate!! Yeah I used the 9C Test as a baseline but you are right in that it isn't a massive indicator of climbing ability. Appreciate the support!! I have no intentions of stopping climbing any time soon!! Cheers 🔥🫶
Trust the process and you’ll see the gains💪🏼 keep it up! Doing all this while training for a marathon is HUGE🤯
no u. Cheers king. I appreciate you 🔥
you deserve wayyyy more attention, amazing video!
Thank you so much Harvey!! Appreciate the support! 🫶
Great video, Justin! Truly. Thank you for making this video showing how fun bouldering is.
My journey has been very similar I would say, even though I have climbed for 3 years now. I plateaued 2 years ago around the V5s but have just had a lot of fun climbing ever since. Actually it has only gotten more fun. I have also started rope-climbing (indoor) and setting my own routes on the Moonboard which has improved my strength and fluency on the wall significantly.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers
Thanks so much for the comment!! I really want to do some top roping or lead climbing soon!! Also, want to start Moonboarding as well!! It seems I'm simply a couple of years behind you 😆. Glad to know it gets more fun!! Cheers 🔥
Yes! Two thumbs up for the MoonBoard 👍🏻👍🏻 Do you ever put your routes into the MoonBoard app?
Yes I do, even though its bugging out a bit. Username: Danidaddy@@augustclimbing
Me thinking you had 441k subs??? Your production quality is amazing dude, you deserve more, keep it up 👍
Appreciate it Tom!! I really enjoy creating these video projects the best I can! Thanks for the kind words! 😁
Great video and awesome progression! Good job! 🙏❤ You're totally right about the community... amazingly helpful, friendly and cool people!
Thank you!! Keep crushing it 💪
If you ever come to Seattle in the states, we should climb together! I’ve just found your channel and took a quick look at your past videos. I’m about to do my first marathon and boulder quite frequently. Cheers!
Thanks, Caedmon! Likewise, if you come to Sydney!! Good luck with your marathon! Hope you take some tips from my video. You'll love the experience!! 💪
Started 2 years ago on top rope, when i started I was definitely on the weaker side. So seeing the progress I'm making, especially on crimps, when it comes to strength is really satisfying. Still struggling on powerful overhangs tho-
Congrats!! This is awesome! Progress is indeed very satisfying! Keep up the good work! 😁💪
Congrats on clearing the reds! The video editing/style was really good, I enojyed the analysis 4:32 🔥 Hope you keep at it 🏅
Thanks Edward! Appreciate the support and kind words 💪🔥
Great video! Keep up the good work
Thank you!! Appreciate the comment! 😁🙏
Awesome video man. Thoroughly enjoyed it. Im at a similar place to you (Started Nov 2022) so climbing almost exactly a year. Climbing v7 max indoors but projecting mostly V6. Im a bit more on the opposite end of things though (Im skinny so i have to use technique to make up for strength). Something I didn't see you mention but I've recently gotten into is system board climbing. If your gym has a Moonboard/Tensionboard/Kilterboard i'd suggest checking them out. I think Kilter is the easiest, Tension second, With Moon being the most difficult. It's humbling smashing a v7 indoors at your gym then not being able to do the v4 sit start on the moonboard!
Cheers mate for the kind words!! Congrats on the progress!! Alot of the best climbers are tall and skinny! Definitely thinking of getting into Moonboarding but omg you are so right with how humbling it is! Your gym has all 3?? I saw you made a progress video aswell. Any chance of an update video?? 😄🔥
Dope vid!
If you want to learn the front lever, try doing pullups where you touch the bar to the lower part of your ribs/upper part of the stomach. As a variant, you can try to swing your legs forward, almost doing a dynamic front lever. You can progress by doing more reps or trying to touch lower. After a while you can try to stop the motion. If you cant do a front lever on a pullup bar, you can try doing it on a hangboard, e.g. 20 mm, this will alter the angle at which the lats will have to work against (check the video about this from geeky climber), I personally find this easier. This might increase the injury risk though.
I haven't seen this method recommended by anyone else, but it makes sense to me, because it is a similar motion, without the pause part, and contrary to what some people believe the front lever is mostly back strength and coordination, and not so much core strength. On a sidenote, this is also a nice back-workout, even if you don't learn the front lever. IMO this way of doing a pullup touching a bit lower on the chest (maybe not as low as you are going to do to learn the front lever, but maybe middle of the chest), compared to chin over the bar, is far superior, at least if you are talking in context of climbing specific movements. It might be a bit more strain on the shoulders though, so be observant for shoulder pain. Hope this is helpful. Good luck!
Tommy!! Thanks so much for taking the time to write this comment!! The Front Lever is my next challenge so this is super helpful and of great timing!! Will definitely be taking this into account and working this into my training! I really appreciate it!! 😊🔥 I know you said it's not so much core but it definitely feels like that at the moment ahhaha. How long did it take for you to get your first front-lever?
Thanks for watching!! If you enjoyed, please consider subscribing!! 🥰 Don't hesitate to leave any questions to might have! I Learnt Bouldering in 6 Months: ytube.io/3n9e
P.S. A slight error but the Max Finger Strength (After the 12 Month) should be 15kg/33lbs
I'm very glad to be subscribed to your channel! Keep up the great work 🙂
Started climbing at Easter this year. I climb up to 7a on a beastmaker training board. I'm fairly strong but short :(
Congrats!! That's great progress! I definitely need to start doing more hang boarding and off the wall training!
Very beginner friendly video, i enjoyed it
Thanks Nathan!! Appreciate it!
I have the vapor v shoes as well. super comfortable although I do worry about the rubber not lasting as its so soft. If you are chasing the front lever, I found that dragon flags help a lot. I did those for a month as well as some one leg tuck front levers and then I was able to full front lever.
Thanks so much for the tip!! Will definitely be doing that!! My Vapors just got a hole in them 😤 but they’re much more comfortable then my other pair. Appreciate it 🙏
Hey man, just some advice. when you’re falling try to land on your feet and then roll backwards onto your back. it means your knees and back aren’t taking as much of the weight when you fall and is much safer. also this might just be a bit of a conspiracy, but you should try your climbing shoes without socks on, it might help. great video though😊
Cheers Mason! Appreciate the comment!! Yes I definitely don’t recommend landing the way I do hahahah. I’ve tried climbing without socks but I just find socks much more comfortable. And when I’m comfortable I enjoy climbing much more. All the best! 💪
Hey, Justin! Great video 👍🏻 I watched your 6-month progression video some time back, so it's cool to see an update on your bouldering progress. Your technique is getting really good! I actually find it interesting that your 9C test stayed mostly the same and your improvements came in other areas. So, having a base level of strength is important, of course, but it's also possible to progress quite a lot by improving technique, route reading skills, confidence on the wall, etc. It's a good reminder about how multi-faceted climbing is with strength being only one part of that equation.
Also, looks like a great gym that you climb at with a robust community! Btw, what do you use for editing? I use Adobe Premiere Pro and I'm just starting to learn Illustrator now as well.
Thank you August!! I really appreciate it!! You are an OG 🔥. I've definitely gotten stronger over the 6 months but I think the 9C Test doesn't reflect it as the jumps to the next progressions are too high. I love your passion for climbing!!
The gym is awesome, it feels likes its getting busier and busier. I use Adobe Premiere Pro as well. A lot of the motion graphics in the video can be done with the Essential Graphics Panel and I source free resources online (such as the call-out). I use Adobe After Effects for the 9C motion graphics. Keep the videos coming!! 💪❤️
@@Justin_Ly you got it! And thanks for your kind words 👍🏻👍🏻
Oh, that’s helpful, thanks! I need to start learning after effects… I have not done anything in there yet. I appreciate the tips!
That's wild progression in the first year climbing, and the routes in your gym don't look easy. Congrats.
Cheers Sebastian!! Appreciate it! 🤝
nice video! i'll definetly have to try the 9c climbing test the next time I am at a gym since I have never done one yet. I'm just over a year of climbing with having started during university and I go around twice a week. Although I love to climb I get quite discouraged that I feel plateau'd only being able to climb v4s and nothing past that no matter how hard I try on v5s its almost a mental block for me. if you have any advice i'd love to know!
Thanks so much!! I really appreciate it!! As you can see I've definitely plateaued however I still really enjoy climbing. I'm definitely not an expert but I think off the wall training can really help. For me, I find that my fingers are constantly failing me so if I focus on hang boarding and exercises which strengthen my fingers, I think that could be really beneficial. Otherwise, just climbing more and solving tougher problems with intention is a sure way to continue to improve!! Hope that helps! All the best moving forward! 😁🔥
7c+ is v10-11 and 6c+ is something between v5-6
you should try a year with rope climbing it's really fun
Yes, I've recently tried top roping. It requires so much more endurance but I had a great time!! Will definitely be doing more of it! 🔥
strength gain might be minor, but I'm sure the main improvement has been technical. Especially if most of the climbing you do is on the wall rather than specific strength training.
Yes, I definitely think this is the case!! Appreciate the comment! 🔥
pretty crazy for only climbing 1 year
Cheers mate!! I'm definitely proud of my progress! 😁
I just realize thqt everybody is different cause ive been climbing for 4 month now and the hardest one that i did is v8 but i did pretty much all the v7 in the gym
Wow that is great progress!!! Definitely not the norm! Congrats 🔥
Did you do any specific finger training?
hey! No i didn't do any specific finger training during this period!
So sick btw you should try wearing your shoes with no socks I find much better. Good luck man 🔥🔥😊
Thanks mate!! Appreciate it 🔥
Amazing. Like 11
Thank you! Cheers!
I don't know where you got your grade conversion but 7c+ is not V6. It is a V10
honestly still trying to wrap my head around all the grades but the 9c test is for sport climbing grades. So 7c+ is approx V6 for bouldering
@@Justin_Ly Not really a V6 but yeah sport grades don't really translate to Boulder grades. So it can be anything in bouldering world.
I dunno. I climb v7 - v8 (little higher indoor and little lower outdoor) and I can't even climb a 5.12 route. 5.13a is really hard.
im at month 5 with my hardest send being a v6 is that okay?
That's really great!! Congrats! 🔥💪
i bought the exact same shoes lol
Ahah do you notice any difference between them? Which one do you prefer?
@@Justin_Ly the vapor Vs are more comfortable for me
@@jakesweet1000 yeah same
V6 is not 7c+
Yeah unfortunately I was unaware that the 9C Test was for Sport climbing so its impossible to say what V grade it is for bouldering. I was told it was around a V5/6 but I'm not entirely sure
It's likely that the mistake is 6c+ rather than 7c+ which is low V6
your %s are wrong for the tests i think. 110% would be over 150lbs considering whatever your body weight is. looks like you were doing 10% of body weight or 15lbs.
Hi Cole, Thanks for watching! Yes that is correct. For some reason I put my body weight as 100% so any additional weight would've been 110% etc.
@@Justin_Ly no worries just was like huh haha. nice progression!
@@colebaumann9850 cheers mate! 💪💪
Just curious. Why are you wearing socks?
Hi!! Good question! I personally find wearing socks more comfortable and so I can climb longer and enjoy it more. It's personal preference but most climbers tend to not wear socks.