So sweet!! How did you decide on foil numbers for the nose/tail? I'm building a board with a 6'6" greenlight blank and have the same intentions, something floaty but still able to be driven hard. Just looking for some guidance on foil amounts and bottom contours, thinking of just doing a basic concave though. Thanks!
@@AndrewWorkshop I made a board with a fabric inlay they are fun to do but definitely add another layer of complexity. What shapes are you adding them too?
@@WaveWasters Nice! Not sure yet, probably some center inlays or a full deck inlay, my only minor concern is they will add a little weight to the board, so going to keep them at a minimum unless it's for a longer board.
Thanks, hmm soft top boards are made in factories with special equipment that fuses or glues the Styrofoam to the EVA soft foam. So something unfortunately outside of my ability.
@@AndrewWorkshop That is true, and maybe the reason why you see not (if any) howto's about this. However. I'm sure that you can do this! Maybe try a small bodyboard or so? You 3D printed a board too, so if anyone can "try" it's you for sure!
I usually don't bother actually, but there are plugs you can buy that go into the slots or you can 3D print them. I've printed some but I'm usually too lazy to put them in lol.
@@AndrewWorkshop Yeah, that would be a great application for 3d printing! I have a few of the futures fin box fillers in 3/4 and 1/2 but I haven't moved them around a lot. I'm sure if I eat a few too many donuts I'll slow the board down more than the drag from those slots. I also wonder a bit if leaving them in for long periods of time might lead them to get stuck. I find futures fins can get sticky and really hard to remove if left in place too long (salt buildup?). Great timelapse video!
@@jamesroscoe7555 Thanks James :) Yeah I went and played around with a few that I printed after reading that comment and they are a pretty close tolerance fit. They are hard to take out and that was before saltwater building up, I suppose one could model in a slot so the fin key could be used to help pry then out lol (I'm going to give it a try). Another option is it's pretty easy to reduce the size of them in CAD. TBH, I probably won't be using them as you said the drag is minimal, more for aesthetics.
@@AndrewWorkshop I think the futures ones have a little hole or something like that to pry. After getting one fin really stuck, I now wax the base of my fins before installing. I also usually sand them down a little if they are super tight in multiple boards.
Beautiful board, I’d say your best yet along with the chambered wooden build. And it looks sooooo fun to ride!
Thanks! Yeah it's pretty sweet!
Hello ! Thank you for your video. I have a question about the stringer, witch wood you use to make il ? Bye 🤙🏼
So sweet!! How did you decide on foil numbers for the nose/tail? I'm building a board with a 6'6" greenlight blank and have the same intentions, something floaty but still able to be driven hard. Just looking for some guidance on foil amounts and bottom contours, thinking of just doing a basic concave though. Thanks!
Nice timelapse. Can you estimate the time of work you need for this project ?
That's a fantastic surfboard. I'm watching from Japan. What thickness of board is the stringer using?
Inlay looks awesome!
Thanks, I'm stoked on it, working on some fabric ones now too!
@@AndrewWorkshop I made a board with a fabric inlay they are fun to do but definitely add another layer of complexity. What shapes are you adding them too?
@@WaveWasters Nice! Not sure yet, probably some center inlays or a full deck inlay, my only minor concern is they will add a little weight to the board, so going to keep them at a minimum unless it's for a longer board.
I don't know of you'll reply to this or my dm but how do you print templates full size, I can't find any stores
The inlay looks so classy Andrew congratulations..it’s absolutely lovely…how does it ride..?
Thanks! It's really fun, good for those small days.
Thank you for sharing.
Can you please do a how to on how to make a soft top board? (so no epoxy / glassing),
Thanks, hmm soft top boards are made in factories with special equipment that fuses or glues the Styrofoam to the EVA soft foam. So something unfortunately outside of my ability.
@@AndrewWorkshop That is true, and maybe the reason why you see not (if any) howto's about this.
However. I'm sure that you can do this! Maybe try a small bodyboard or so?
You 3D printed a board too, so if anyone can "try" it's you for sure!
Have you built a retro fish yet?
Andrew - when you change fin configurations - how do you plug the unused slots?
I usually don't bother actually, but there are plugs you can buy that go into the slots or you can 3D print them. I've printed some but I'm usually too lazy to put them in lol.
@@AndrewWorkshop Yeah, that would be a great application for 3d printing! I have a few of the futures fin box fillers in 3/4 and 1/2 but I haven't moved them around a lot. I'm sure if I eat a few too many donuts I'll slow the board down more than the drag from those slots. I also wonder a bit if leaving them in for long periods of time might lead them to get stuck. I find futures fins can get sticky and really hard to remove if left in place too long (salt buildup?).
Great timelapse video!
@@jamesroscoe7555 Thanks James :) Yeah I went and played around with a few that I printed after reading that comment and they are a pretty close tolerance fit. They are hard to take out and that was before saltwater building up, I suppose one could model in a slot so the fin key could be used to help pry then out lol (I'm going to give it a try). Another option is it's pretty easy to reduce the size of them in CAD. TBH, I probably won't be using them as you said the drag is minimal, more for aesthetics.
@@AndrewWorkshop I think the futures ones have a little hole or something like that to pry. After getting one fin really stuck, I now wax the base of my fins before installing. I also usually sand them down a little if they are super tight in multiple boards.
Awsome
Nice🤌🏼