Jesus christ man! You are spoiling me too much mate! 🙏 I'm forever grateful! Bike looks awesome! (Blue bikes usually does😉) Good luck with that tubeless setup, looking forward to hearing the verdict on GP5000.
Ken Miller never unfortunately. Nearest I’ve gone is Hiroshima (years ago, no bike) work has kept me from exploring western Japan (or northern Japan for that matter) I hope to get down there some day.
@Rides of Japan - Your videos on the OPEN UP totally have me wanting one. I just got into gravel at the end of last summer but I think I like it more than road biking. Had been planning to buy a new aero super bike this summer but now I'm leaning towards a higher end gravel bike (currently riding a 2016 AL Warbird).
I have the Disc Pro 1 version of this, 2019, since late July. It's such an amazing bike - the narly sound of it when you're pedalling along. The snappy feel. The handling is insane. It put my normal ride average speed up from 19mph to 20.8 mph over a 1.5hr ride. I actually requested they fit the GP5000 tubeless whilst it was still in the shop as I have good experience with contis. However after a collision with a car, my front tyre got damaged so had to swap that out within 3 weeks of having the bike but nonetheless they are really good tyres you can't fault them. I did have issues with my gear tuning about 2 weeks in and that silent narly sound started to become overpowered by the sound of a chain not sitting right, a quick re-tension of the cable and indexing brought it back to it's original state though. Unfortunately I had another, quite bad crash on it which damaged the rear mech hangar and I also think there is some damage to the cassette which I need to take to a professional mechanic to sort out. I 've never had a set of carbon wheels before this set so can't really compare but they seem really good however I do want to eventually also get a set of the 30mms because I don't like the slight wobble you get from crosswinds when going 35mph+ on the 42mms. I have had a really scary speed wobble during a descent on these. I totally agree with your take on the hydraulic disc brakes they are superb and you would not want to upgrade or swap these out for anything. One of the first things I upgraded was the saddle as the stock saddle was uncomfortable. My next upgrade on the bike itself i think will be the di2 kit which you get stock on the Pro 0 version. Creaks and clicks I have nothing - when the chain is clean and lubed there is no sound coming from this bike after about 1000 miles. In my opinion there is no need to put 28mm tyres on this bike. The tubeless tyres run fine at 60PSI (this is coming from someone who was obsessed with running 28mm tyres). Your comments about the tyres somehow always being 60psi the next day is true for me as well. Weird.
On the topic of ‘front brake wobble’ - while it’s partly due to position of the brake (any small movement at centre of wheel becomes amplified), it’s also more than likely due to how the pads are retained. They just have a single pin holding them in place which allows quite a bit of movement to and fro when compared to rim brake pads which are effectively screwed down into one position! Bike looks great and thanks for all your insightful content!
Glad you are finding the wheels ok. I've heard a few people complain about the wheels on the TCR Advanced Pro 0, but i've been super impressed with mine. I'm surprised it took you this long to change the tyres. I hated the feel of the Gavia tyres and swapped them out after my first ride on the bike. I've had an issue with disk rub after long descents.It seems to rub and make a bit of a grinding sound for a minute or so after completing the descent and then goes away. The same thing happens when it's wet, then the sound seems to go away once the disks dry out.
Thanks so much for the comment on the front end wobble, saved me worrying about headset tension and a trip back to the bike shop! Great video, lovely bike, enjoy it!!
Awesome video!! That is my video you are referencing at 5:21!! Mine came in out of true and the wheels I replaced them with made a WORLD of difference in the bike for climbing and bombing down hills. I was disappointed as I expected more from Giant. As more time has gone by, the only other thing I can say is the it is overall, an extremely heavy bike. Climbs well with the gearing, but heavy. Great video!!
You can make the Di2 system allow you to change into the 2 smallest cogs (while in the small ring) by using E-TUBE and setting the crankset to 53/39 and cassette to 11/25. There is also a checkbox on the same screen that says something like "No set gear". Select that checkbox too. It doesn't mess with your synchro or semi-synchro changes. You can also override the subsequent incorrect information being shown on your Garmin head unit (I use a 1030) by manually setting the correct crankset and cassette size in the Garmin Di2 settings, so that the gear ratio info. you see is correct! Hope this helps.
My first road bike is a second hand TCR 2013 that hasn't been used at all (so it's basically new). Goes so so so well! I hope my next bike/upgrade will be di2 as that seems to be the best upgrade for the money.
You should be a bike reviewer along with power and trainers. Your the most watchable and comprehensive reviewer that racers and enthusiasts want to watch!
Cheers. The industry likes paid/advertorial reviews above all else. It’s too risky for them to give product to someone like me who’ll publish the no bullshit real experience. That’s just business. I’ll do my best to get my hands on what I can... but the reality is the barrier above.
Glad you are liking the new bike Shane. Lubing thru-axles is a good idea. They will go in easier, and won't creak/squeek. I switched from grease to spraying them with Boeshield T-9. It leaves a dry waxy film that is less messy an works just as well for it's intended purpose.
Shane Miller - GPLama Hey Shane. I rarely see the stuff in stores and I live in Seattle where the stuff was presumably invented. I discovered it years ago when I was searching for something besides paste wax to protect my saw tables from rusting. A guy working in a woodworking store told me about it. My bikes all get a thorough wipe down with it whenever I’m working on them. Especially the stem bolts and shifter clamps. I have an alloy BMC that has 10k zwift miles and it still looks brand new. I don’t use it as a chain lube, and you Obviously want to avoid rim brake tracks and disc pads and rotors, but just about anything else gets wiped down. I usually order the large spray cans on Amazon here in the US. I’ve had the cans get clogged, which is really annoying. Otherwise I love the stuff...
My schwalbes tubeless are basically fit and forget. Its the fitting that's the hard part until you learn the right techniques. After that they're pretty easy. Just make sure you get a booster pump!
@@faintscrawl Yeah I think it depends on your rims. On my ultegra's I can pump up with a floor pump quite easily, but on my carbon rims I need the booster to get them seated.
Great Video Shane! I have had great results with my TCR pro 0 as well. My tire pressure does not drop to 60 psi as your tires do. I have been riding at about 85 psi in the back and 80 in the front with no worries. I check tire pressure before each ride and usually am within 5 psi of the previous ride. I also love the disc brakes. My previous bike (now on the wahoo Kickr) has caliper brakes and the disc brakes are far superior in my opinion. Finally, my wheels also roll fine. I saw the video you described that in which the reviewer said the wheels were like sand. I have no issues with the wheels at all. I look forward to hearing how you like the new tires (5000s). I am thinking about trying the bar tape. I usually like to double wrap, so I might try putting the new tape over the existing tape. Cheers!
When the BB starts creaking and it will! The solution I found works the best is replacing it with a Chris King! The creak will disappear! The wheels manufacturing BB is not the solution! If you have squishy brakes, have your shop do a top end bleed. There can be micro bubbles in the system that get together to make larger bubbles leading to squishy brakes. I’ve experienced all of these on my Giant Defy! Happy riding!
Hi Shane, I have the GP 5000's with Ultra light/thin Conti Supersonic tubes on one bike and 28mm tubeless Scwalbe Pro Ones on another bike, personally I really can't see the advantage going tubeless, still carry a spare tube just in case still have to check pressure before each ride, they actually drop more pressure than the tube type. And what a Bitch to set up had to visit the local Servo to use compressor, now I have a Scwalbe tyre Booster to help. I have had at least 4 occasions where I got home to find the rear of the bike and saddle bag sprayed with white sticky sealant sure it got me home on approx 40 psi but prior to going tubeless had not had a flat tyre for over 15, 000kms!. Comfort is marginally better but I put that down to them being 28mm as opposed to the 25mm GP's. Have had to replace one of the tubeless already as I got a hole that would not seal tried a plug but was not all that confident in that so new tyre it was. Probably would not go tubeless again but look forward to your initiation into the tubeless minefield!!.
I'm already tubeless hardened. See my videos on the HUNT wheel conversion (went smoothly), and a repair fix (that didn't). If these GP5000TL don't go on smoothly, I'm done tubeless for a while.
I have the propel 2018 same level of components Di2 Ultegra. Got it as bout the same time. Love it all though I got them to put tubes in (poor choice) havnt h er d an issue but should have gone straight for tubles. Used your video to set my secret buttons!!!
I will make sure I wear an adult nappy (diaper) for your upcoming tubeless GP5000 episode if it's anything like your last Tubeless video. I laughed so hard....😂
@@algerianatheist2755 That said, I have read that the tubeless version of the GP5000 is 3 x 60TPI rather than the regular clincher version of GP5000 which is 3 x 110TPI which means it might not be as supple tyre. Check these links out. Just be careful with aero data as it all depends on what size tyre you are using and your rim inner and outer shape/depth. road.cc/content/review/258400-continental-grand-prix-5000-tl www.cyclist.co.uk/news/5702/which-is-faster-continental-gp5000-tubeless-or-clincher
Mate. Great reviews. Bought the Garmin Varia RTL 510 based on your video and not disappointed. Pleeeease film the install of tubeless Conti 5000 😂. I’ve had 90km on the tube version. Easy peasy.
I have this bike in rim brake version. I think the wheels are fantastic and would challenge anyone who disagrees to find me a better set of stock wheels on a similarly-priced bike. The rims could be wider, but other than that, they are plenty stiff and reasonably light.
thanks for update - very similar to my experience so far - I have same model 2018. Di2 died .... was it crash mode????; anyway took off wheels, put in rear of car for long journey home (don't like uv on frame for extended periods, especially at height of summer), upon returning home no Di2, dead. was it Battery. Tried charging and no response. Thinking this is back to shop - warranty, then plugged in e-tube and Di2 comes to life, charged up and all ok has been for a week now. Was it something in car laying on rear derailleur I thought and put Di2 into crash mode. Did some research on how to recover from crash mode; you would hit button multiple times, can't say if that was it as plugging into e-tube got it going again. tyres: Giant tubeless rims would have an internal compatibility with the Gravia tyres, a standard similar to Stans Tubeless rims (he calls it bead lock), question is do tubeless road rims and tyres have a similar standard. I"m mentioning this as on an mtb I've had an instant tyre deflation, i.e. OTB ... on a road bike that could be quite serious. enjoying the discussion. cheers.
There is a small amount of that. Most is the flex in the frame/fork. There’s no jolting occurring when the flex is happening which would be the caliper moving.
The GP5000tl are very easy to install. Make sure the rimtape is done correctly, buy a quality valve and I used a compressor to inflate the tyre. I put the tyre on the rim by hand. 4 months and no puncture. The ride quality is even better and especially cornering is much better than the normal gp5000.
Tubeless a lot can go wrong I bought a pair of the new Mavic UST Ksyerium pro wheels they seemed an ideal setup ,,,,very messy the sealant had trouble sealing I tried various makes and gave up I think the tyre manufacturers rely to much on the sealant and don't make the tubeless tyre tuff enough,,saying that the new Pirelli tubeless tyres are supposed to be very good indeed ,,for now I am back on Micherlin pro 4s
Nothing wrong with these wheels. I'm constantly riding all types and quite often a lot of premium wheels and these giant wheels are quite good, granted not as good as my Corima WS 58's but still very rideable.
I have seen this TeamZWatt Zpider in at least 3 videos! Where is the review :D I got one myself and well had to replace it once and usually it's a pain in the ... to update the firmware (cuz it mostly crashes and then needs a troubleshoot out of the app) but the power reading is within the 1% range of my kickr core, battery life is no problem and on the road i never had any issue (except the first one unit, there was a problem with the glue on the straingauge, but i guess this can happen to any powermeter). So i guess for the price (kickstarter price) it's still kinda ok? Would love to hear your thoughts about it.
My Di2 wont go in 36x11 even without synchro on. Not 100% sure, but I think you can tweak it by selecting a bigger front ring in the E-TUBE app. They made this to prevent a too lose chain between derailleur and chain rings (and to not let you crosschain, sometimes I wish they made 52x28 and 25 unavailable aswell, just to save me some watts ;) )
I got a TCR Advanced 2. Unfortunately we got the first snow of the winter the day I bough it so I didn't get to take it outside yet but I love it on the trainer so far. Having gotten the "cheap" version, I think a wheel upgrade is likely needed in the future. I'm wondering if I should go with the Giant carbon wheel or try something else...
@@gplama Thats exactly what I did. I watched the portion of the video at .25 speed. Im sure this will differ with wheels of different spoke count, lace patters and spoke tension.
A few people have mentioned this... I don't think it's the case. The calipers are pressed on to the rotor with a LOT of force, the rotor isn't moving, the pads aren't moving (there's no click/jolting when moving back and forward). Some have mentioned it's the hub/spokes twisting and untwisting. I'll get some slow-mo cameras on it.
@@gplama thats true but bear in mind there has to be clrarance between the pad and caliper and also the piston and caliper or they will bind up, that play is then amplified by the relative diameter of the disc vs the entire wheel. A similar effect occurs on a caliper brake with the necessay pivot clearances, but here there is no amplification effect 'cos the caliper is at the same diameter as the rim.
Wife and I started cycling last year, picked up a 2018 TCR Advanced 2 and the matching Liv Langma for her. The Pro 0 Disc will be my next bike. One question, did the Pro 0 come with the AC 0 tires? Only reason I ask is because my Advanced 2 came with Race 1's. Just wondering if that was an option, possibly Disc vs Caliper related? Needed to get new tires and got the Race 0's(would have gotten the 5000's, but they were back ordered and needed to replace a flat :/ Oh, and thanks for the like on our IG post(thatcyclingcouple) last night!! Made our night!! Keep up the great work!
that brake wobble on the front wheel is just the movement of the pads within the caliper, it's only a couple mm but translated to a big wheel it exaggerates it
Even when the brakes are applied with a ton of pressure? There’s no clicking or jolting. I’ll get some up close slow-mo footage of the wobble and evaluate.
I had the same doubt, went with a TCR. Mine is a Advanced SL. One point was the lifetime warranty and local support. I do thanks that decision because I had to use the warranty and Giant + the LBS well impressed me a lot.
What surprises me with this bike and my new Canyon Aeroad is that neither came with a Shimano WU-111. At the very least it should have been offered at time of purchase and fitted if purchased with the bike.
I'm thinking about buy de TCR ADV TEAM DISC 2020, iI really like it. But, next year they are going to change the frame (probably with complete internal routting), what should I do? buy it or wait for next year? I can't know if I'll like the next year colour frame... Thanks for your videos!
If you're pumping up your tyres every day, have you looked into motorised pumps since that silver USB rechargable one? Perhaps 12V or 240V powered units?
Hi! I have a gravel bike i use for the road. What power meter do you recommend? I don't want to use a pedal (garmin), and i don't have enough room on the crank for a 4iiii. I like the price though, all the others seem very expensive. The 4iiii that will work goes inside the crank, but my bike would be down for 2 weeks as they need the crank (whole drive side). I ride my bike all year as i also use it for commuting. Right now during lockdowns i am doing alot of road riding with my rack off. On roads now closed to cars :-) I am not a racer, i do gravel races though, and i'd like to start training with a power meter to improve.
Shane, if you like the BBB bar tape you have to check out this bar tape mage by Origin8. www.amazon.com/Origin8-DMND-PERF-Tape-Plugs/dp/B01J4H90BE?th=1. The DMND-PERF Black/Blue would look stunning on your Giant. I'll never go back to any other bar tape. This stuff is awesome. Wears great, easy to apply, feels great, and looks awesome. Cheers and thanks for all of your hard work in providing us with your insight.
Great stuff... Any thoughts to turning your old bike into a "dedicated" trainer bike? Way back in 1994, when I bought my current bike, I put my old one on the trainer, "permanently". It's only been off for rebuilds and updates. Course, no need to have brakes. Used to have downtube shifters, but upgraded everything to 105 STI stuff last year after getting a Kickr. It is set up to match my "outdoor" bike. Makes things easy to get an indoor ride in... Just a thought.
I've never been one for having a dedicated bike. I tinker, upgrade, change things around... and that'd mean I'd have to do it x2. It'd work for some people though.
The wobble you are talking about , do you mean fork flex , and I suppose disc on road forks haven’t been out to long so I wonder how the fork holds up to long term wobble
Hi Shane, could not determine where to put my Q regarding S-Works Power carbon saddle with 7x9 rails and its compatibility with TCR Advanced vertical loading saddle clamp. It was advised that S-Works Power saddle would not work on a side loading clamp. And it appears that TCR isn't the case hence, it will work. But there is that voice at the back of my head telling me get some confirmation. Looked all over different forums but cannot find specifics. Thanks for any advise. Cheers!
I'm not 100% sure and not near my bike at the moment to check. Any (good) Giant dealer should be able to correctly advise what's compatible with the seat clamps.
Did you check the balance of your wheels? I have the year earlier model and both front and rear wheels were substantially unbalanced. If they were unbalanced, did you, or are you planning to balance them?
Hi Shane, nice vid and a lovely bike 🚴♂️, so looking forward to a vid on you fitting gp5000 tubeless and if you get them on 🤣🤣, how they are, as quite tempted for my TT bike and thanks for you likes on zwift, I’m becoming so addicted this winter 🥶🚴♂️👏👏
How have you found the disc brake rub in hard efforts or out of saddle? Have you noticed any at all? I'm feeling stuck between a rim or disc brake version!
That’s been my experience thus far with every disc brake road bike I have tested so far. That’s why I am sticking with rim brakes I am going for my dream bike 2019 trek slr rim brakes version.
I have the TCR Advanced Pro 0. After 2 years I have never had disk rub when sprinting or climbing out of the saddle. Mind you, I'm not putting out 1,500 watts. A complete non issue for me.
Just a question about the disc brakes! I have a medical condition which resulted in having lower hand grip power. I'm having difficulties when braking hard when on descents, and I'm also around 83 kg heavy. My question is, changing from rim to disc brakes will help me be able to brake properly with less hand grip? Nice channel, just subscribed! :)
Hydraulic is what you're after, not just disc. The combination of the two means more stopping power with less 'pulling force'. Drop into a bike store and test out in person.
I got the giant tcr advanced disc from a few years ago (the yellow one) great bike I had to upgrade the wheels as the hubs were fucked tho also I have some flex marks in the paint near the rear chainstay / bottom bracket area shop said was fine and it happens on light coloured frames every now and then It has 8000 kms on it anyone else experience this? Weight with better wheels is 8kg with shimano XT pedals
Hey Shane, how's the cable routing? I noticed on the Black level of this bike, the cabling for the disc is zip tied to the fork which I couldn't quite believe.
I'm looking at the non di2 version of this but a guy on another channel seemed unhappy with the wheels, i have also seen very good reviews on the wheel set so it's a bit confusing, how do find they roll maybe his where over tight on the hub causing rolling resistance??
@@gplama compare it to a supersix down tube, --double as wide! It extends out past the width of the front tire by a wide margin! Are you paid by giant in any way?
@@keithkwiatek291 The size of the top tube hasn't ever been an issue for me. I paid for this bike from Shaw's Cycling here in Ballarat. I'm not here selling anything, just passing on my experiences and opinions. People can ride whatever they like. I'm ok with that.
Hey Shane, I am looking at purchasing same bike as you. Need some advise with sizing. I am 172cm tall with 79cm inseam and 56cm arm length. Will you recommend size Small or Medium? I am confused as i kinda fall in between sizes. Your advise will be appreicated Cheers
@@vibhasvatve5817 Ended up getting size Small. Fit is perfect, snappy and comfortable to ride for hours. I didn't have to make any adjustments. I would take bike shop size recommendation with grain of salt as they are motivated to sell stock on hand. Try both sizes to evaluate what suits you best.
Yes. Not much to report on to be honest. The Di2 updates and rewiring, new wheels, new saddle - all covered in video. I’d still like my hands on a gravel bike for more adventures.
That is a good question! By myself i have to decide between those two. Think it is about the rider type. In my area - northern Germany - it is all flat and a lot of wind most of the time. Today ;-) i prefer the tcr. What is your decision?
Or.... as I stated.... I have a chat about the bike, good and bad, to help others out. Maybe providing some insight you won’t get in other “reviews”. If you want to call me out as an arsehole, this isn’t it.
Shane Miller - GPLama there really needs to be a sarcasm font. Dude I love your content...was totally kidding. Can’t wait to hear your thoughts on the GP5Ks. I’ve got a set for my new Roval CX50s that I’m waiting to mount until spring as I don’t want the tubeless sealant to dry out. Been riding GP4K variants for years now so I’m excited for the next generation. But a bit of trepidation as this is my first foray in tubeless.
All good. That's what :) ;) or /s is for. I'm scared of the tubeless setup.... even though I've already done it a few times. It's either good.... or really really really shit. Stay tuned. I have a swear jar ready.
Shane Miller - GPLama lol. Yeah I saw your other tubeless videos. So the trick my buddy showed me was to mount the tires WITH a tube and get the bead set. Then deflate, only take one bead off and remove the tube. Then add sealant and reinflate. This way you only have to seat one bead and can do it with a normal pump most times. Good luck.
victor chatue very disc brake road bike I have tried so far that’s my experience. That’s why I am going to stick with rim brakes i am going for the 2019 trek Madone slr project one rim brakes.
Jura Stanić The ones I have tried so far has 12mm axles and rubs for me, if just riding along easy no rubs, but sprinting out of the saddle rubs all the time. And to me paying more for the extra weight of disc brakes and the rubbing I experience with sprinting out the saddle with the fact that disc brakes create more drag is just not logical for me to pay more money for. The 2019 Madone slr rim brake version has plenty powerful brakes for me and it’s 1.5lbs less in weight than the disc brake version and cheaper by $500 and the fact that I can still use my other wheel sets for rim brakes is just a no brainer for me.
The brake wabble is mostly from the brake pads moving inside the caliper. Do the same test and watch or feel the tops of the pads, they move .....that's your wabble :)
@@UnhingedHarry No, you don't get anywhere near that amount of flex from the wheel components. It's the pads because you are rocking the bike back and forth. There's a very very small amount of flex in the forks but that is barely noticeable
Jesus christ man! You are spoiling me too much mate! 🙏
I'm forever grateful!
Bike looks awesome! (Blue bikes usually does😉) Good luck with that tubeless setup, looking forward to hearing the verdict on GP5000.
Apologies for screwing up your channel name. I was kicking myself during post edit. Your content is 🔥👍🏼
@@gplama haha! I didn't even notice that.
No worries at all! I butcher the english language in every video 😉
@@ridesofjapan How often do you get down to Kyushu? I have been in the Fukuoka area for 14 years. If you are down this way, let's ride!!!
Ken Miller never unfortunately. Nearest I’ve gone is Hiroshima (years ago, no bike)
work has kept me from exploring western Japan (or northern Japan for that matter)
I hope to get down there some day.
@Rides of Japan - Your videos on the OPEN UP totally have me wanting one. I just got into gravel at the end of last summer but I think I like it more than road biking. Had been planning to buy a new aero super bike this summer but now I'm leaning towards a higher end gravel bike (currently riding a 2016 AL Warbird).
I just picked up this model 2nd hand, first ride blew me away. Awesome bike, hope all is well Lama.
Just picked up the same bike and the play and some other info Was exactly what I was thinking too. Thanks!
I have the Disc Pro 1 version of this, 2019, since late July. It's such an amazing bike - the narly sound of it when you're pedalling along. The snappy feel. The handling is insane. It put my normal ride average speed up from 19mph to 20.8 mph over a 1.5hr ride. I actually requested they fit the GP5000 tubeless whilst it was still in the shop as I have good experience with contis. However after a collision with a car, my front tyre got damaged so had to swap that out within 3 weeks of having the bike but nonetheless they are really good tyres you can't fault them. I did have issues with my gear tuning about 2 weeks in and that silent narly sound started to become overpowered by the sound of a chain not sitting right, a quick re-tension of the cable and indexing brought it back to it's original state though. Unfortunately I had another, quite bad crash on it which damaged the rear mech hangar and I also think there is some damage to the cassette which I need to take to a professional mechanic to sort out. I 've never had a set of carbon wheels before this set so can't really compare but they seem really good however I do want to eventually also get a set of the 30mms because I don't like the slight wobble you get from crosswinds when going 35mph+ on the 42mms. I have had a really scary speed wobble during a descent on these. I totally agree with your take on the hydraulic disc brakes they are superb and you would not want to upgrade or swap these out for anything. One of the first things I upgraded was the saddle as the stock saddle was uncomfortable. My next upgrade on the bike itself i think will be the di2 kit which you get stock on the Pro 0 version. Creaks and clicks I have nothing - when the chain is clean and lubed there is no sound coming from this bike after about 1000 miles. In my opinion there is no need to put 28mm tyres on this bike. The tubeless tyres run fine at 60PSI (this is coming from someone who was obsessed with running 28mm tyres). Your comments about the tyres somehow always being 60psi the next day is true for me as well. Weird.
I've had this bike since early 2019 and it's been amazing!
On the topic of ‘front brake wobble’ - while it’s partly due to position of the brake (any small movement at centre of wheel becomes amplified), it’s also more than likely due to how the pads are retained. They just have a single pin holding them in place which allows quite a bit of movement to and fro when compared to rim brake pads which are effectively screwed down into one position!
Bike looks great and thanks for all your insightful content!
Exactly, the play comes from the pad movement not really the fork flex.
I've got a TCR disc and love it. I'm running 28mm tyres which fit quite easily 👍
do you run tubeless still? If so which ones?
Great sweater. Kudos for a shout out to Canada. We're currently in a deep freeze at -30 degree Celsius with windchill
I’ve seen that in the news here so I thought I’d wear that one today. 🇨🇦
@@gplama Nice to know you're thinking of us :)
Only -30? You're in the warm end of the Polar vortex! It was -43 here on Wednesday BEFORE the wind chill ;)
@@jasonjarvis2198 You guys making me feel good about -22 we had in the (Canadian) Deep South
Glad you are finding the wheels ok. I've heard a few people complain about the wheels on the TCR Advanced Pro 0, but i've been super impressed with mine. I'm surprised it took you this long to change the tyres. I hated the feel of the Gavia tyres and swapped them out after my first ride on the bike. I've had an issue with disk rub after long descents.It seems to rub and make a bit of a grinding sound for a minute or so after completing the descent and then goes away. The same thing happens when it's wet, then the sound seems to go away once the disks dry out.
Thanks so much for the comment on the front end wobble, saved me worrying about headset tension and a trip back to the bike shop! Great video, lovely bike, enjoy it!!
Awesome video!! That is my video you are referencing at 5:21!! Mine came in out of true and the wheels I replaced them with made a WORLD of difference in the bike for climbing and bombing down hills. I was disappointed as I expected more from Giant. As more time has gone by, the only other thing I can say is the it is overall, an extremely heavy bike. Climbs well with the gearing, but heavy. Great video!!
Brilliant video, thank you! Looking forward to the power meter review
Fantastic job, I’m getting this bike. Peace be with you..
You can make the Di2 system allow you to change into the 2 smallest cogs (while in the small ring) by using E-TUBE and setting the crankset to 53/39 and cassette to 11/25. There is also a checkbox on the same screen that says something like "No set gear". Select that checkbox too.
It doesn't mess with your synchro or semi-synchro changes.
You can also override the subsequent incorrect information being shown on your Garmin head unit (I use a 1030) by manually setting the correct crankset and cassette size in the Garmin Di2 settings, so that the gear ratio info. you see is correct!
Hope this helps.
Congrats on the upgrade to GP5000TL! Let us in Korbach know how you like them!!
"Tubeless...what can go wrong?" 😂😂😂😂
Best slogan!
Nice update 😎 Good luck fitting the new tyres 😇😊
My first road bike is a second hand TCR 2013 that hasn't been used at all (so it's basically new). Goes so so so well! I hope my next bike/upgrade will be di2 as that seems to be the best upgrade for the money.
You should be a bike reviewer along with power and trainers. Your the most watchable and comprehensive reviewer that racers and enthusiasts want to watch!
Cheers. The industry likes paid/advertorial reviews above all else. It’s too risky for them to give product to someone like me who’ll publish the no bullshit real experience. That’s just business. I’ll do my best to get my hands on what I can... but the reality is the barrier above.
Glad you are liking the new bike Shane. Lubing thru-axles is a good idea. They will go in easier, and won't creak/squeek. I switched from grease to spraying them with Boeshield T-9. It leaves a dry waxy film that is less messy an works just as well for it's intended purpose.
Hard to come by that stuff. I need to order some in the mail.
Shane Miller - GPLama Hey Shane. I rarely see the stuff in stores and I live in Seattle where the stuff was presumably invented. I discovered it years ago when I was searching for something besides paste wax to protect my saw tables from rusting. A guy working in a woodworking store told me about it. My bikes all get a thorough wipe down with it whenever I’m working on them. Especially the stem bolts and shifter clamps. I have an alloy BMC that has 10k zwift miles and it still looks brand new. I don’t use it as a chain lube, and you Obviously want to avoid rim brake tracks and disc pads and rotors, but just about anything else gets wiped down. I usually order the large spray cans on Amazon here in the US. I’ve had the cans get clogged, which is really annoying. Otherwise I love the stuff...
My schwalbes tubeless are basically fit and forget. Its the fitting that's the hard part until you learn the right techniques. After that they're pretty easy. Just make sure you get a booster pump!
I use Schwalbes without a booster pump and it's okay, but, yeah, it's on my wish list.
@@faintscrawl Yeah I think it depends on your rims. On my ultegra's I can pump up with a floor pump quite easily, but on my carbon rims I need the booster to get them seated.
Great Video Shane! I have had great results with my TCR pro 0 as well. My tire pressure does not drop to 60 psi as your tires do. I have been riding at about 85 psi in the back and 80 in the front with no worries. I check tire pressure before each ride and usually am within 5 psi of the previous ride. I also love the disc brakes. My previous bike (now on the wahoo Kickr) has caliper brakes and the disc brakes are far superior in my opinion. Finally, my wheels also roll fine. I saw the video you described that in which the reviewer said the wheels were like sand. I have no issues with the wheels at all. I look forward to hearing how you like the new tires (5000s). I am thinking about trying the bar tape. I usually like to double wrap, so I might try putting the new tape over the existing tape. Cheers!
Another great video.
When the BB starts creaking and it will! The solution I found works the best is replacing it with a Chris King! The creak will disappear! The wheels manufacturing BB is not the solution! If you have squishy brakes, have your shop do a top end bleed. There can be micro bubbles in the system that get together to make larger bubbles leading to squishy brakes. I’ve experienced all of these on my Giant Defy! Happy riding!
Great update Shane
Hi Shane, I have the GP 5000's with Ultra light/thin Conti Supersonic tubes on one bike and 28mm tubeless Scwalbe Pro Ones on another bike, personally I really can't see the advantage going tubeless, still carry a spare tube just in case still have to check pressure before each ride, they actually drop more pressure than the tube type. And what a Bitch to set up had to visit the local Servo to use compressor, now I have a Scwalbe tyre Booster to help. I have had at least 4 occasions where I got home to find the rear of the bike and saddle bag sprayed with white sticky sealant sure it got me home on approx 40 psi but prior to going tubeless had not had a flat tyre for over 15, 000kms!. Comfort is marginally better but I put that down to them being 28mm as opposed to the 25mm GP's. Have had to replace one of the tubeless already as I got a hole that would not seal tried a plug but was not all that confident in that so new tyre it was. Probably would not go tubeless again but look forward to your initiation into the tubeless minefield!!.
I'm already tubeless hardened. See my videos on the HUNT wheel conversion (went smoothly), and a repair fix (that didn't). If these GP5000TL don't go on smoothly, I'm done tubeless for a while.
There's a new tcr e tap model in the works. But you didn't hear it from me....
Good review Shane
I really like this bike and the BMC Team Machines SLR02 ONE disc... Both are so nice!
Awesome stuff mate. Thanks
I have the propel 2018 same level of components Di2 Ultegra. Got it as bout the same time. Love it all though I got them to put tubes in (poor choice) havnt h er d an issue but should have gone straight for tubles. Used your video to set my secret buttons!!!
I need a new frame after mine cracked, think i will go for this model-looks a beauty.
Great hoodie Shane!
I aprrove of that sweater! slight different in weather from where you are at -30c
🇨🇦♥️☃️
I will make sure I wear an adult nappy (diaper) for your upcoming tubeless GP5000 episode if it's anything like your last Tubeless video. I laughed so hard....😂
What's wrong with Continental GP 5000 tubeless?
@@algerianatheist2755 Shane was having trouble with tubeless fitment in his previous video. Look it up. Very funny! Nothing to do with GP5000
@@richardggeorge 😁 I am curious now
Thanks
@@algerianatheist2755 That said, I have read that the tubeless version of the GP5000 is 3 x 60TPI rather than the regular clincher version of GP5000 which is 3 x 110TPI which means it might not be as supple tyre. Check these links out. Just be careful with aero data as it all depends on what size tyre you are using and your rim inner and outer shape/depth. road.cc/content/review/258400-continental-grand-prix-5000-tl
www.cyclist.co.uk/news/5702/which-is-faster-continental-gp5000-tubeless-or-clincher
@5:00 it's not play it's torsional spring of the spoke assembly. That's why discs are so much better. That compliance adds braking traction.
Sweet hoodie!!!! Sweet video!!!!
TCR 👌🏻
Mate. Great reviews. Bought the Garmin Varia RTL 510 based on your video and not disappointed. Pleeeease film the install of tubeless Conti 5000 😂. I’ve had 90km on the tube version. Easy peasy.
I have this bike in rim brake version. I think the wheels are fantastic and would challenge anyone who disagrees to find me a better set of stock wheels on a similarly-priced bike. The rims could be wider, but other than that, they are plenty stiff and reasonably light.
great shirt mate! ( from Canada )
🇨🇦
Yes I get that front brake wobble on mountain bikes too, just a disc thing. Which is unfortunate that’s how I check headset tightness.
thanks for update - very similar to my experience so far - I have same model 2018.
Di2 died .... was it crash mode????; anyway took off wheels, put in rear of car for long journey home (don't like uv on frame for extended periods, especially at height of summer), upon returning home no Di2, dead. was it Battery. Tried charging and no response. Thinking this is back to shop - warranty, then plugged in e-tube and Di2 comes to life, charged up and all ok has been for a week now. Was it something in car laying on rear derailleur I thought and put Di2 into crash mode. Did some research on how to recover from crash mode; you would hit button multiple times, can't say if that was it as plugging into e-tube got it going again.
tyres: Giant tubeless rims would have an internal compatibility with the Gravia tyres, a standard similar to Stans Tubeless rims (he calls it bead lock), question is do tubeless road rims and tyres have a similar standard. I"m mentioning this as on an mtb I've had an instant tyre deflation, i.e. OTB ... on a road bike that could be quite serious.
enjoying the discussion. cheers.
The wheel “wobble” is the play in the brakes pads moving in the brake Caliper.
There is a small amount of that. Most is the flex in the frame/fork. There’s no jolting occurring when the flex is happening which would be the caliper moving.
I thought you were done with tubeless...what changed? I'm interested in hearing your thoughts on the tubeless version of the GP5000 once installed
Ahhhhh. This reminds me of the time I bricked mine. Fun times.
How do you fix it?
It’s been a bit. I think we need another update Shane!
I thought of returning to tubeless and buy the 5000 TL's but I think I'll wait for your update first:)
The GP5000tl are very easy to install. Make sure the rimtape is done correctly, buy a quality valve and I used a compressor to inflate the tyre. I put the tyre on the rim by hand. 4 months and no puncture. The ride quality is even better and especially cornering is much better than the normal gp5000.
Tubeless a lot can go wrong I bought a pair of the new Mavic UST Ksyerium pro wheels they seemed an ideal setup ,,,,very messy the sealant had trouble sealing I tried various makes and gave up I think the tyre manufacturers rely to much on the sealant and don't make the tubeless tyre tuff enough,,saying that the new Pirelli tubeless tyres are supposed to be very good indeed ,,for now I am back on Micherlin pro 4s
Nothing wrong with these wheels. I'm constantly riding all types and quite often a lot of premium wheels and these giant wheels are quite good, granted not as good as my Corima WS 58's but still very rideable.
A wider 19mm or 21mm inner track would have been ideal. These have performed well to date though.
I have seen this TeamZWatt Zpider in at least 3 videos! Where is the review :D
I got one myself and well had to replace it once and usually it's a pain in the ... to update the firmware (cuz it mostly crashes and then needs a troubleshoot out of the app) but the power reading is within the 1% range of my kickr core, battery life is no problem and on the road i never had any issue (except the first one unit, there was a problem with the glue on the straingauge, but i guess this can happen to any powermeter). So i guess for the price (kickstarter price) it's still kinda ok?
Would love to hear your thoughts about it.
Soon :)
My Di2 wont go in 36x11 even without synchro on. Not 100% sure, but I think you can tweak it by selecting a bigger front ring in the E-TUBE app. They made this to prevent a too lose chain between derailleur and chain rings (and to not let you crosschain, sometimes I wish they made 52x28 and 25 unavailable aswell, just to save me some watts ;) )
best bang for your buck but i wish they had more color options.
I got a TCR Advanced 2. Unfortunately we got the first snow of the winter the day I bough it so I didn't get to take it outside yet but I love it on the trainer so far. Having gotten the "cheap" version, I think a wheel upgrade is likely needed in the future. I'm wondering if I should go with the Giant carbon wheel or try something else...
The " play " you describe in the front brake is the actual wheel / spokes / hub winding up and unwinding..
Interesting. I’ll need to put some slow-mo cameras and see exactly what’s happening.
@@gplama Thats exactly what I did. I watched the portion of the video at .25 speed. Im sure this will differ with wheels of different spoke count, lace patters and spoke tension.
Can't wait for the tubeless set up video! 😱 😠
I'm sourcing a swear jar.
The fork wobble is the tiny bit of 'rattle' in the disc pads as they move in the calipers.
A few people have mentioned this... I don't think it's the case. The calipers are pressed on to the rotor with a LOT of force, the rotor isn't moving, the pads aren't moving (there's no click/jolting when moving back and forward). Some have mentioned it's the hub/spokes twisting and untwisting. I'll get some slow-mo cameras on it.
@@gplama thats true but bear in mind there has to be clrarance between the pad and caliper and also the piston and caliper or they will bind up, that play is then amplified by the relative diameter of the disc vs the entire wheel. A similar effect occurs on a caliper brake with the necessay pivot clearances, but here there is no amplification effect 'cos the caliper is at the same diameter as the rim.
Wife and I started cycling last year, picked up a 2018 TCR Advanced 2 and the matching Liv Langma for her. The Pro 0 Disc will be my next bike. One question, did the Pro 0 come with the AC 0 tires? Only reason I ask is because my Advanced 2 came with Race 1's. Just wondering if that was an option, possibly Disc vs Caliper related? Needed to get new tires and got the Race 0's(would have gotten the 5000's, but they were back ordered and needed to replace a flat :/ Oh, and thanks for the like on our IG post(thatcyclingcouple) last night!! Made our night!! Keep up the great work!
Yep, AC 0.
1,500 km in 6 weeks?!?!? That’s a strong lama
The weather is good here. Easy to get those kms in.
that brake wobble on the front wheel is just the movement of the pads within the caliper, it's only a couple mm but translated to a big wheel it exaggerates it
Even when the brakes are applied with a ton of pressure? There’s no clicking or jolting. I’ll get some up close slow-mo footage of the wobble and evaluate.
The bike looks so good. I'm deciding between this one and Canyon Ultimate, have no idea which one to choose.
I had the same doubt, went with a TCR. Mine is a Advanced SL. One point was the lifetime warranty and local support. I do thanks that decision because I had to use the warranty and Giant + the LBS well impressed me a lot.
What surprises me with this bike and my new Canyon Aeroad is that neither came with a Shimano WU-111. At the very least it should have been offered at time of purchase and fitted if purchased with the bike.
The $15k Pinarello at the TdU didn’t come with one either.
The Propel Advanced SL 0 Disc came with it installed.
I'm thinking about buy de TCR ADV TEAM DISC 2020, iI really like it.
But, next year they are going to change the frame (probably with complete
internal routting), what should I do? buy it or wait for next year? I can't know if I'll like the next year colour frame...
Thanks for your videos!
If you're pumping up your tyres every day, have you looked into motorised pumps since that silver USB rechargable one? Perhaps 12V or 240V powered units?
Hi! I have a gravel bike i use for the road. What power meter do you recommend? I don't want to use a pedal (garmin), and i don't have enough room on the crank for a 4iiii. I like the price though, all the others seem very expensive. The 4iiii that will work goes inside the crank, but my bike would be down for 2 weeks as they need the crank (whole drive side). I ride my bike all year as i also use it for commuting. Right now during lockdowns i am doing alot of road riding with my rack off. On roads now closed to cars :-) I am not a racer, i do gravel races though, and i'd like to start training with a power meter to improve.
Shane, if you like the BBB bar tape you have to check out this bar tape mage by Origin8. www.amazon.com/Origin8-DMND-PERF-Tape-Plugs/dp/B01J4H90BE?th=1. The DMND-PERF Black/Blue would look stunning on your Giant. I'll never go back to any other bar tape. This stuff is awesome. Wears great, easy to apply, feels great, and looks awesome. Cheers and thanks for all of your hard work in providing us with your insight.
Great stuff... Any thoughts to turning your old bike into a "dedicated" trainer bike? Way back in 1994, when I bought my current bike, I put my old one on the trainer, "permanently". It's only been off for rebuilds and updates. Course, no need to have brakes. Used to have downtube shifters, but upgraded everything to 105 STI stuff last year after getting a Kickr. It is set up to match my "outdoor" bike. Makes things easy to get an indoor ride in... Just a thought.
I've never been one for having a dedicated bike. I tinker, upgrade, change things around... and that'd mean I'd have to do it x2. It'd work for some people though.
The wobble you are talking about , do you mean fork flex , and I suppose disc on road forks haven’t been out to long so I wonder how the fork holds up to long term wobble
Hi Shane, I am thinking about getting this bike.
Are you still happy with it. Are you going to do an another update soon.
Hi Shane, could not determine where to put my Q regarding S-Works Power carbon saddle with 7x9 rails and its compatibility with TCR Advanced vertical loading saddle clamp. It was advised that S-Works Power saddle would not work on a side loading clamp. And it appears that TCR isn't the case hence, it will work. But there is that voice at the back of my head telling me get some confirmation. Looked all over different forums but cannot find specifics. Thanks for any advise. Cheers!
I'm not 100% sure and not near my bike at the moment to check. Any (good) Giant dealer should be able to correctly advise what's compatible with the seat clamps.
Did you check the balance of your wheels? I have the year earlier model and both front and rear wheels were substantially unbalanced. If they were unbalanced, did you, or are you planning to balance them?
Nice sweatshirt, eh, 🇨🇦
Thanks for the review. Have you had any struggles with the deep wheels on windy days?
The front gets thrown a little in very strong crosswinds. Not enough to worry about.
Hi Shane, nice vid and a lovely bike 🚴♂️, so looking forward to a vid on you fitting gp5000 tubeless and if you get them on 🤣🤣, how they are, as quite tempted for my TT bike and thanks for you likes on zwift, I’m becoming so addicted this winter 🥶🚴♂️👏👏
See my video just published. The GP5000TL went on super easy, no problems. (it's all the other messing about the tubeless that's a headache)
Hey Shane. Love the video. My tcr arrived today after a 6 week wait. What bottle cages have you fitted - they look great.
Likely Elite cages. That’s what’s on the bike at the moment.
.... or they could have been BBB back then.
Shane Miller - GPLama thanks. They look like BBB.
How have you found the disc brake rub in hard efforts or out of saddle? Have you noticed any at all? I'm feeling stuck between a rim or disc brake version!
That’s been my experience thus far with every disc brake road bike I have tested so far. That’s why I am sticking with rim brakes I am going for my dream bike 2019 trek slr rim brakes version.
I have been riding my 2019 TCR for about 4 months now. I just started getting a disc rub, when sprinting and climbing up hills.
I have the TCR Advanced Pro 0. After 2 years I have never had disk rub when sprinting or climbing out of the saddle. Mind you, I'm not putting out 1,500 watts. A complete non issue for me.
Just a question about the disc brakes! I have a medical condition which resulted in having lower hand grip power. I'm having difficulties when braking hard when on descents, and I'm also around 83 kg heavy. My question is, changing from rim to disc brakes will help me be able to brake properly with less hand grip? Nice channel, just subscribed! :)
Hydraulic is what you're after, not just disc. The combination of the two means more stopping power with less 'pulling force'. Drop into a bike store and test out in person.
@@gplama thanks. I meant hydraulic disc's. I will follow your advice and visit a bike shop.
Hey Shane, im curious why you did not for the TCR SL Disk over the pro model? apart from the price difference? looking at getting one of these myself.
I'm not a fan of ISP
Are you using any of the synchro shift options (if so what are your thoughts) or just staying in manual mode?
I got the giant tcr advanced disc from a few years ago (the yellow one) great bike I had to upgrade the wheels as the hubs were fucked tho also I have some flex marks in the paint near the rear chainstay / bottom bracket area shop said was fine and it happens on light coloured frames every now and then It has 8000 kms on it anyone else experience this? Weight with better wheels is 8kg with shimano XT pedals
Hey Shane, how's the cable routing? I noticed on the Black level of this bike, the cabling for the disc is zip tied to the fork which I couldn't quite believe.
The front hydro cable doesn't go into the fork, no. Doesn't really worry me.
I'm looking at the non di2 version of this but a guy on another channel seemed unhappy with the wheels, i have also seen very good reviews on the wheel set so it's a bit confusing, how do find they roll maybe his where over tight on the hub causing rolling resistance??
I have no problems with the wheels.
hey Shane what size do you have and how tall are you??? Inseam???
What about that massive, wide, flat down tube? Isn't it a massive drag on the flats?
It's not a TT bike... and no issues with the downtube as it is. The font wheel takes more air than the downtube.
@@gplama compare it to a supersix down tube, --double as wide! It extends out past the width of the front tire by a wide margin! Are you paid by giant in any way?
@@keithkwiatek291 The size of the top tube hasn't ever been an issue for me. I paid for this bike from Shaw's Cycling here in Ballarat. I'm not here selling anything, just passing on my experiences and opinions. People can ride whatever they like. I'm ok with that.
Shane, what is your height? That size M it’s ok for you?
Do you think you can run a 28c tire on it? is there enough clearance for a 28c between the fork and tire? I know it comes with 25c
I don’t think so. It might depend on the tyre type. They’re not all equal.
Hey Shane,
I am looking at purchasing same bike as you. Need some advise with sizing. I am 172cm tall with 79cm inseam and 56cm arm length. Will you recommend size Small or Medium? I am confused as i kinda fall in between sizes.
Your advise will be appreicated
Cheers
This is advice the bike store should give you. It's not something I can solve over the Internet.
can you let me know what size you ended up getting? I’m the same size and facing the same dilemma
@@vibhasvatve5817 Ended up getting size Small. Fit is perfect, snappy and comfortable to ride for hours. I didn't have to make any adjustments. I would take bike shop size recommendation with grain of salt as they are motivated to sell stock on hand. Try both sizes to evaluate what suits you best.
Did that come with the D Fuse Handlebars? (reach 72, drop 125) If so, what did you think about them?
I had mine switched out from stock to a pair of 36cm Giant bars, so I'm not sure sorry.
Hi shane, I am thinking about buying my first Giant TCR Pro disc, can you tell me the weight of your complete bike
7.7 I think for this.
Same thing happened to my bike when I had the bike shop install the ew-wu111 so don't free bad.
Hey Shane! Hope all is well! Still riding the TCR? Can you give us an update after a year of additional KMs?
Yes. Not much to report on to be honest. The Di2 updates and rewiring, new wheels, new saddle - all covered in video. I’d still like my hands on a gravel bike for more adventures.
@@gplama The number of bikes we would like is always n+1 😂
Thx for the review. Any thoughts about defy advanced Pro 0, costs same money.
I’m not familiar with that bike sorry
That is a good question! By myself i have to decide between those two. Think it is about the rider type. In my area - northern Germany - it is all flat and a lot of wind most of the time. Today ;-) i prefer the tcr. What is your decision?
How did you fix bricking the Di2?
Beautiful bike. One day.....
Unplug the battery. Give it a few minutes. Plug it back in. Failing that - connect to it via USB.
How much does it weigh? I have the 2014 version and I'm curious whats happend in those years (haven't had a chance to watch the video yet)
7.7 with no pedals. It's no lightweight rig.
@@gplama Thats about the same as mine rim brakes, ultegra mechanical and American classic 420. Not very light but awesome to ride
@@gplama I can't wait till they get these down to 7kg like the rim brake model. Saving my money for that wonderful day.
What do you do think of the top tube being so relaxed??
That’s the C in TCR (Total Compact Road). I don’t mind it. Doesn’t change the way it rides - that I can tell.
Do 28mm continental gp5000 TL fit with stock wheels?
Not sure on that.
Hi mate, how many Kg does your bike weigh?
It's 7.3 or .8 or something. It's no lightweight.
Still trying to figure out if GP Lama is gloating more about his new bike or the fact that it's Aussie summer and he's done 1,500k already.
Or.... as I stated.... I have a chat about the bike, good and bad, to help others out. Maybe providing some insight you won’t get in other “reviews”. If you want to call me out as an arsehole, this isn’t it.
Shane Miller - GPLama there really needs to be a sarcasm font. Dude I love your content...was totally kidding. Can’t wait to hear your thoughts on the GP5Ks. I’ve got a set for my new Roval CX50s that I’m waiting to mount until spring as I don’t want the tubeless sealant to dry out. Been riding GP4K variants for years now so I’m excited for the next generation. But a bit of trepidation as this is my first foray in tubeless.
All good. That's what :) ;) or /s is for. I'm scared of the tubeless setup.... even though I've already done it a few times. It's either good.... or really really really shit. Stay tuned. I have a swear jar ready.
Shane Miller - GPLama lol. Yeah I saw your other tubeless videos. So the trick my buddy showed me was to mount the tires WITH a tube and get the bead set. Then deflate, only take one bead off and remove the tube. Then add sealant and reinflate. This way you only have to seat one bead and can do it with a normal pump most times. Good luck.
Any disc brake rub problems?
Nope. Not yet.
Even when climbing out the saddle and pushing the bike sideways? I get that on my venge perhaps it’s how the brakes are set up?
victor chatue very disc brake road bike I have tried so far that’s my experience. That’s why I am going to stick with rim brakes i am going for the 2019 trek Madone slr project one rim brakes.
Romeo Fowler
With 12 mm axel disc brake rub is very rare
Jura Stanić The ones I have tried so far has 12mm axles and rubs for me, if just riding along easy no rubs, but sprinting out of the saddle rubs all the time. And to me paying more for the extra weight of disc brakes and the rubbing I experience with sprinting out the saddle with the fact that disc brakes create more drag is just not logical for me to pay more money for. The 2019 Madone slr rim brake version has plenty powerful brakes for me and it’s 1.5lbs less in weight than the disc brake version and cheaper by $500 and the fact that I can still use my other wheel sets for rim brakes is just a no brainer for me.
The brake wabble is mostly from the brake pads moving inside the caliper. Do the same test and watch or feel the tops of the pads, they move .....that's your wabble :)
@@UnhingedHarry No, you don't get anywhere near that amount of flex from the wheel components. It's the pads because you are rocking the bike back and forth. There's a very very small amount of flex in the forks but that is barely noticeable