I was recently a support cyclist in a tiny running event. One runner got injured towards the end, so we switched. I had to run in way too much clothing and the injured runner - being almost 30cm shorter than me - had to ride like Manon for the last 5k :D
IMO. The majority of bike shops and brands do a poor job of making sure the rider buys the correct sized bike. It should be part of the service for all shops to have people measured.
@@XBKLYN Yup. But it's effed up. These bikes costs thousands of dollars. I've met people who bought a bike one size too big or one size too small and the amount of additional money that had to be thrown at making the bike fit was astronomical.
@@LRF49 I've seen that myself......instead of personally going through that kind of pain I purchased a Ti frame from Lynskey about 5 years ago which came with a fit guarantee...any problems just send it back no questions asked for the next size up or down. Of course there is some expense in swapping components and shipping but it's not anywhere near losing 4,000 bucks on the wrong fit. The last time I attempted to buy from the LBS they tried to put me on a 54 even though I always ride a 52 and even though I measured as 52 on their own sizing tool! Needless to say they only had 54's in stock. No thanks!
Yep, I made that mistake once. It was a deal I couldn’t pass up on a new PERFORMANCE dual suspension bike, back in the 90s. I knew the frame was small, but I somehow thought I could make it work by maxing out the seat post height, shifting the seat back, and installing an extra long stem. It didn’t work. Heartbreaking. But then I married, and after undoing all my changes to the bike, it was perfect for my wife. She loves it!
Manon riding Connors bike is hilarious. Reminds me of when I was growing up and a lad around my way got a bike that he could “grow into”. His dad put wooden blocks on the pedals because the bike was so big. Long story short he was a late bloomer and had blocks on his pedals for about 4 years.
if you are shorter than 170cm (5'7) toe overlap happens with 700c wheels anyway, regardless of bike type. frame size might be absolute bang on, but crank length and wheel size have to go down in size.
100% correct! Bike companies make different frame sizes but don't bother adjusting the sizes of the other parts. I recently replaced the 170cm cranks with 165cm which just are more comfortable with my leg length (I would probably be even happier with 160cm) When I win the loto I am going to get a custom frame with 650 wheels.
Indeed, The importance of a correct crank length is a severely underestimated sizing option. Small frame and 160 or 165 mm cranks. A small amount of compensation (~5mm) for toe overlap can be achieved by moving the cleat position for ward on the shoe. It's not perfect but the loss of efficiency is negligible versus the gain of comfort
@@yisraels4555 Taking the same path here! I actually went down 170 > 165 > 160mm and now I can stay in aggressive position with tri-bars much longer. My average cadence jumped about 10rpm! The only problem is that the shorter the crank, the harder it is to get the bike moving from a standing start (650b can be helpful for this), but the actual ride is much smoother!
We are now about to rush to our garage or bike shed to run these tests despite "suspecting" for a while that the bike is the wrong size. But it was such a bargain.... As always GCN, excellent advice.
Great video! I had this quandary with my recent purchase of my 2023 Cannondale Topstone carbon 3L. At 6’ tall, 210# and a 32” inseam Cannondale recommended that I buy a medium frame although their size chart stated that I could also use a large or extra large frame. The closest dealership that had the bike in stock was 4 hours away. I opted for the extra large frame as the medium frame would have yielded a very tall seat post and an aggressive lean on the handlebar. I did have to lower the handlebar to be parallel to the ground and to move the shifters higher to reduce the reach. I also had to cut the seat post. It is still above the handlebar height but I now have the perfect seat height and pedaling stroke. All of these changes resulted in none of your problems in your video. I now have a wicked fast and nimble bike.
Great tips! Didn’t know you could just see it with simple tests. I’ve bought a bike, which after a lot of bikefit-appointments was apparently 2 sizes too big for me. (Need a short reach and saddle must go quite a bit up). So maybe the top tip: go get yourself measured out by a bikefitting expert before you actually buy a bike. You won’t regret it.
This! I've been riding a 56 for the past 5 years. I only got a bike fit because I'm spending so much on my dreambike and I'm changing to a size 52. The other biggest thing I learn which I'm shocked GCN didn't mention is crank length! I'm going from 172.5 to 165, on the fitting jig this was the lightbulb moment where I realised how wrong it was. Crank length also impacts saddle height/knee flex so look into it!
I'm 5'-8"and ride a 50cm, which is perfect for me. For a long time bike shops had me believing I should be on a 54 which always felt a bit odd in handling, too big. Until one day I sized down and boy it made all the difference in riding comfort for me.
50cm for 5' 8" is NOT the standard fit for most people. 54cm is the proper size for that height. At 5' 10" I was hemming and hawing between a 54 an 56. Went with the 54 and it was a mistake. Saddle to handlebar delta was just too large. 56-57 is ideal for me and I'm average dimensions for my height. Luckily, I was able to switch with a teammate so I could retain the custom team colors. What works for you doesn't make the rule. If every 5' 8" person walking into the LBS were put on a 50cm, they'd be completely wrong most of the time.
@@dudeonbike800 Nancy clearly said that this is what works for her, it doesn't apply to everyone. I also feel like women often size down because of our shorter torso length. I'm 5'7" and am currently riding a 53 frame which is too big because the reach is too long.
@@dudeonbike800 just because the size works for you doesnt mean it SHOULD work on every body else. One's anatomy is different from the next person. I'm 5'9 and is very well comfortable with a 50/52. Sizing has a lot fo factors : Age, medical history, flexibility, etc.. So stop saying "not the standard fit for most people" coz... there aint any standard fit.
@@dudeonbike800 point is, there is no real "proper" size. My personal condition is that the top tube is at such a height that there is at least 1" from my nuts touching it. There is the theoretical average person of that height, but lots of people don't fit that. There is also variance in geometry, like the distance the BB shell is from the ground, in some cases, up to 2". I'm 5'8.5" and i found frames between 48-54 which all fit me. Numbers are one thing, knowing what they mean is another.
When I bought my first road bike in 2011 the shop said "if you can stand over the top tube with an inch of clearance it fits" and set my saddle height in about 90 seconds and sent me on my way. Flash forward to 2020 I bought my gravel bike online, using their fit tools based on my height. I set the saddle height of the new bike to match the old one and it just never felt (or looked) right. So I went to a real fitter who informed me my saddle was nearly THREE INCHES too low. And a bunch of other things out of whack, basically should have bought the size down from what I did. If you're going to spend thousands on a bike, don't listen to the brands websites, GO GET FIT. It will pay for itself in the long run.
Thank you for the Tip. I recently got a 26 inch bike (Wheel Size). The bike shop employee knows nothing about bikes at all. The shop owners just seem to want to sell. Thank goodness, I can stand over the top tube with an inch of clearance. I'm lucky I picked the right one with no bike knowledge.
The shop i brought my bike from also did fitting so believed they knew what they were doing but yeah realised after they just wanted the sale they didn't really care, so yeah makes things difficult
I'm 6'2" and was between sizes so opted for the larger size. Tat was a 60 cm rather than a 58 cm frame. In hindsight, I think I would have been better going a size down as the adjustments are easier to make that way.
I'm 5'10 and could have gone 54 cm or 56 cm and chose 56. I also sometimes get the feeling the smaller size would have been a better fit. That said, I have gotten my setup just right where I can make it through a century without hand, back, or seat pain.
@@mrrodriguezHLP Sounds like we followed the same journey there fella. I also eventually got the set-up right but like yourself, I can't help feeling that the smaller size would have been a better option. Take care and happy holidays. JP
I’m currently in that position currently with the same height going with the 60cm. Got most adjustments fixed but my reach to the handlebars needs work still.
Feeling like we are all on bikes slightly the wrong size haha. I have a 56 cm frame at 6'1" and it feels slightly too small overall, slight toe overlap sometimes, high seat post, slammed stem.
Good to have some on the bike humour at this time. Frames tended to be larger 20-30 years ago and road bikes had horizontal top tubes.Nowadays they are sloping and come in less sizes (brand dependant). It is easier to get a fit in 1 or 2 cm increments other than S,M,L etc. Have a bike fit done by a professional or a good shop,if not offered shop elsewhere is my advice.If buying online you must get the right frame including suitable geometry for the type of riding for you.
Tip about seeing the front hub led me to shorten my stem from 120mm to 100mm on my 56cm Cannondale CAAD 12 Ultegra. Perfect - and not twitchy even at speed. Thanks, mate!
I am 5'7 and I am using a CAAD12 size 48, 5'7 should be 52 if you're gonna go with the usual measurement sizing. But I found that the size 52 is bigger than what I need. After getting bike-fitted, I went from a standard 90mm stem to a 120mm stem and it handles like a dream. My bike fitter told me you can go 1 or even 2 sizes down for an easier adjustment. Especially when the rider (such as myself) prefers longer stems.
I'm also 5'7" and I had 53cm Cannondale Synapse that felt a tad bit too big for me. Now I'm riding a 49cm Lemond Zurich and all I can say is that it fits me much better and feels easier to ride. The thing about Lemond bikes is that its geometry is made to fit people with shorter legs and longer torsos better than other frames.
Another thing to take into account is your proportions. I.e. if you have a short torso and long legs you will need to run a much higher seat post which in turn will make a bike feel a lot more aggressive in it's stack height. In this situation I've found it to be better opting for the larger frame size as you can't increase a bikes stack without flipping a stem which doesn't look too pleasing on the eye imo.
@@alanz561 It really depends on the bike and other factors. I ended up going with the smaller of two sizes for my new bike, because that model/brand (Gazelle) runs a little large and also I put a suspension seatpost on it (which would have made the seat too high in the larger size). But for previous bikes, I've chosen the larger of the in-between sizes and been fine with those after a bike fitting.
@@ligeialovelace I am like this. I am 5'10 and 32 inseam. all charts say 56 but i ride on a 58 2023 trek checkpoint sl5 as the 56 i look too crunched up in stock settings. the 58 opens up to better position and needs less adjustment. I think it is cause of my longer arms for my height and wide shoulders. everyone says im nuts and should be on a 56 but the bike shop with 40 year old road vets all looked at me riding both and said i looked better on the 58.... so I dunno.
I bought a road bike for the first time a few months ago so I could cycle to work. I just went off the sizing chart on the retailer’s website and got a medium frame. Straight away the reach felt a little bit too long. So I did some research and used the method mentioned in the vid where if you can see the hub under/over the bar then the reach is too short/long. I could see the hub under my bars. I’ve ended up getting a new, shorter stem and adjusting the position of the brake levers to shorten the reach and now it’s spot on. I’ve also heard experienced cyclists say those sizing charts aren’t very accurate. So if you’re thinking of getting a bike. That’s something to watch out for. Probably better off getting a bike fit beforehand.
After watching tip 2 I went running on my bike to check out where my front hub sits. Thankfully its exactly where the stem meets the bars and invisible from that position. Thank you LBS and bike fitter.
I first started road biking in 2010 and purchased a Trek Madone 4.5. I didn’t know any better and went with the salesperson recommendation. What I didn’t realize is the bike had an endurance geometry, sloping top tube with 15cm headtube. I’m 5’8 with a 76cm inseam so the bike fit me. I road this bike for 5 years and decided I would only get another bike when my abilities exceeded the current bike. 5 years later, I ordered project one madone in H1 fit size 52. So I went down a size with a smaller headtube but the reach was longer on the H1. I was able to fit this bike but was at the limit on the seat cap unless I wanted to purchase a longer seat cap. 7 years later, my H1 Madone developed and crack in the BB and Trek warrantied the frame. I have generation 6 Madone on order but I went back to a 54 size frame. With a better understanding of bike geometry, I realized the new H1.5 frame 52 would be smaller than my H1 frame (shorter reach as well) and the 54 would be closer to the H1 fit.
I always see comments about bike frames which say, you can make a small frame bigger but you can’t make a big frame smaller… but that’s rubbish isn’t it? If you are between sizes and go for the smaller bike to can increase stem length, and do the opposite if you buy the larger bike? You can also adjust the stack by changing the position of the spacers or flipping the stem, again either way. The reason I’m asking this is I suspect that a lot of people go for the smaller because it’s lighter, but if you’re looking for an endurance bike should you go for the longer wheelbase as it’s more stable? Would appreciate comments as We are buying my wife’s first road bike, she is an active 60, looking at long easy rides rather than road racing. I like the front hub tip 👍
You can buy a new bar/stem. My bike came with a Vision 5D integrated cockpit and a 110mm stem, but it can be swapped for a 90mm or a 130mm if needed. Thankfully, though, the stock size is a fit.
Great stuff, funny and informative. Could you do a follow-up with hints for people with abnormal body proportions? I have very long legs and had problems finding the right size and a good position.
@@latenightjazzbartok That‘s for tall people. I‘m not tall (183cm) but I have long legs and a short torso. I almost always have to pick a frame that is too long for me because otherwise I will get problems with the min. insertion depth of the seatpost.
I love this video, One best way to know your bike frame size is to measure your height from the ground to your waist respectively, with your bike frame height from the ground to the frame seat post in accordance to your waist area, Also measure your comfort and sprinting sweet spot length across from your seat post to your handlebars...making sure you are not straining or leaning a lot forward. It's better also to know your frame or bike size number, let's say if your height is 5.8 you might roughly get an 18 frame size for that height, If your height is 6.0 you get a 19 t0 20ties frame bike size. It's really bad to buy an expensive bike only to realize later after long usage it's not your perfect size.
if you have large enough feet and large wheels, your toe can hit the front wheel even with a correct size frame. My 70's road bike with 630x32 wheels has this problem...
I’m 6ft 3” and I’ve been stuck on a 50cm bike with a massive seat-tube as it’s the only road bike I could afford! I thought Toe Overlap, extreme back pain and high knees were just part of the experience!
Spot on! People, especially men, buying tiny bikes for "maximum standover clearance" ends up with terrible bike sizing. Do you spend hours ON your bike, or standing over it?
please don’t do this to yourself, i’m 5’11” and am most comfortable on a 56cm (riding a 57cm bianchi atm which feels slightly smaller than only it’s top tube measurement would suggest) sell and buy a cheap, well serviced, and most importantly a well fitting bike it’ll change cycling for you
Have a look OLD STEEL BIKES FRAMES .....they are cheap and very BIG .... then You can put moderns components.... I have a 63cm PEUGEOT ....highly recommended 😉👍
I feel that my bike is the correct size, considering the advice on 'not' seeing the front hub, slightly bent arms and seat potion and i can ride very comfortably for 8 hours after which only my poor bum hurts because of hard saddle. However when standing up and riding up a steep hill at 20% I need to lean forward so much that my knees start to hit the end of the handle bar when I start to swerve left to right at slower speeds. I feel like it is only a few cm of extra space missing. I have tried a slightly longer stem but that didn't feel right when riding on the hoods which is my standard position. As an alternative, I have been thinking of swinging the drop handle bars up a bit to give me a bit more space since when I ride on the drops I have my hand in the middle of the drops. Hence swinging them up a bit, my hands will move towards the end, but then getting to the brake leavers from the drops becomes a bit more cumbersome. Another option would be to swing them up just a little so the reach to the brake levers is still comfortable when in the drops but in addition to chop off 2cm from the end of the drops ?? By the way, I have recently met a lady who was riding on a bike which apparently was tailored to her by a local bike shop but she looked very much like Manon on Connor's bike. Her problem was less so the stretched position since she quite tall but the pressure this posture put on her sensitive lady's parts making a ride a highly uncomfortable affair. 🥴😵😵💫 The bike shop adjusted her saddle at such a steep angle forward to compensate for this pressure but of course she then had to push herself back every 2 minutes to maintain her pelvic bones on the saddle. This is very much a problem of not having female bike mechanics or sales people anywhere in our local bike shops (Edinburgh) except for 2 ladies in Innerleithen but there they deal predominantly with MTB's .
When in doubt, smaller is easier to compensate with longer a longer stem and longer seat tube. Correcting for a frame too big is nigh impossible. Take a cue from the pro’s, they often ride frames seemingly to small with great effect. Also, smaller frames handle quicker and are more twitchy, and should be relatively lighter and stronger because the frame triangle is smaller.
However there then is a potential problem when riding standing up and the issue with hitting your toes with the front wheel which can end up with you lying in the gutter.
@@robertrjm8115 meh, that doesn’t really happen ever except when standing stil, most bikes have some toe overlap you just don’t steer that extreme while riding. (When worried, shorter cranks or cleat set back can help you)
are you as stretched as pros? smaller frame means a smaller stack and often back pain or a lot of headset spacers - for the average cyclist to blindly follow a pro is not a good idea
Hi GCN 👋 I am a 15 year old Australian cyclist. I got my first proper road bike today! I love it, and I’m super grateful. Might you have any name suggestions? He’s a blue trek. Have a great day :)
6’3.5” and riding a 56. It feels right for me. Just got on it to try the “see the hub test” and it was hidden perfectly behind the bars with a 120 stem. My friend who works in a bike shop is still convinced I should be on a 61. My cross bike is a 58 and had to get an 80mm stem to get the reach right. Go with what works for you.
So many new adult riders end up with bikes that are too large. My theory is that we grow up being brought bikes that we can 'grow into' and that ends up being a pattern that we carry into adulthood. My first road bike was an XL Specialized Allez. I'm 192cm but it was HUGE.
The only problem I've ever had is with folding bikes which are generally one size fits all. For me the handlebars are usually a bit too close for me even with the saddle pushed back as far as it will go.
Yet another great GCN Vid, Conor looks like a giant on Manon's bike. A bike fit would save potentially $$$$. I had one done and when i bought the bike it almost fitted like a glove. All manufactures have different diminsions/measurements for S/M/L/XL so check the manufactures information. Borrow a friends bike of about the same size and crib from that, or get a test ride from your LBS!!!
Georgena Terry solved the toe overlap problem for small riders by substituting a smaller 24” wheel in front. This was genius, made it easy to get a well balanced frame geometry and eliminated toe overlap. The full size rear wheel gave rolling resistance about the same as other 700c bikes so you could keep up on a ride. But they were never generally adopted. It was a small brand and the bike shops that sold them often didn’ t promote them or diverted small riders to other brands. They would say things like “Oh, you’ll have to carry two different tube sizes in case of flats (not true, you can put a 700c tube in the smaller wheel in a pinch, I’ve done it). So it slowly went away. Shame.
My endurance road bike's frame size is 52 cm which is 2 cm shorter for my height of 175 cm. Fortunately, I was able to remedy it by replacing its stock stem with a raised stem. With that, my neck doesn't ache anymore even on my long rides unlike before.
168cm with 677 saddle height and ride a 52 for 4 years. Gets lots of shoulder and neck pain. Last week crashed my bike and got a chance to decide on a 49 or 52 for the crash replacement. I really feel like going for the 49.
Can you guys help me? I'm only 5'7 yet the size of my bike is 56. I'm having a hard time riding it like it hurts my back, arms, necks and literally my whole body. What canI do? Thank you so much in advance.
@@calvinjohnjagorin3504 At that height easily a 52 or 54! Best try a couple for feel or go down the route of a bike fit which will confirm the exact size and other measurements for stem, cranks etc.
smiling the whole time watching this video. Very funny and informative. I am 5'8 ride a 54 size frame, rides o.k. but, do miss my previous bike size 52.
That's true. I rode an XL sized Epic fully (26er) and an S sized road bike. A smaller bike is much more comfortable, but you can't always fine tune the geometry/handling with a new seatpost/stem.
I think I’m guilty of always buying too big a bike. During Feb ‘21 I was grateful to get my hands on an XL Giant Defy Advanced 2 with (group set of the people) 105. I.m 6’1 but with long legs. Giant dealer said it was perfect due to stand over. Another Giant (and Cube) dealer said I was between sizes. I shortened the stem 20mm and narrowed the bars (from 44 to 42) and am much comfier, up still not comfy on long rides. Apparently road might copy MTB-XC and Gravel with longer top tubes and shorter stems. Thoughts? I did buy a Cube gravel bike after in a large, and the fit feels better, it wondered if that was just because of slack geometry? TIA.
Thanks for this, I'm planning to get a bike soon (in a country where literally no bikes are available, we have to import just to taste one!) and this video will surely help!
Get. A. Bike. Fit. When deciding on the budget for your new bike factor in the cost of a bike fit. This can also apply to buying second hand bikes, arrange a bike fit first then take all the guess work out of your purchase.
Got good 2nd hand deal on mountain bike - my height is in the 'recommended range' for 2 sizes and this was the smaller (I did test it btw). First decent ride out was seriously aching in the arms and shoulders - a large (but not not silly) 40deg stem turned it from zero to hero. So; 1, it's worth trying a tweek. 2, propably better a bit small than a bit large. 3, consider risk/reward on such purchases! 4, imo it's likely fixable if it felt ok on a short test. On road I definately prefer the larger frame.
The worst problem is having a frame that is too big. It is difficult to make adjustments to make it comfortable and safe, whereas a too small frame, you can extend the stem and make minor adjustments. Although I am 5'7" woman with a long leg, I actually feel right on a a small frame, though technically, on the charts, I am a medium. The best test is does it feel right, and safe.
As someone with a daft leg to torso ratio, I get signs my bike is both too small and too big, even on an endurance oriented geometry. Safe to say I’ll never ride a ‘race fit’ frame!
I'm 6 ' 4" tall and not out of proportion. For years I went with the manufacturers' recommendations for frame size which was always firmly 60cm so not in between sizes. Eventually I came to the conclusion that the bikes I was buying were too big so stepped down on my last purchase to a 58cm frame and the fit is now perfect. The other bugbear with bike manufacturers is that as the frames sizes get bigger they fit longer stems, wider bars and longer cranks which makes no sense at all. I would advise anyone shelling out several thousand pounds for a new bike to get a bike fit first unless you have a really good idea what your size should be based on past experience.
I'm the same height as you, and I'll 100% give a 58 a try for my next bike. I have a 61cm frame now, and it always feel as if it's just a tiny bit to large for me to ride it comfortably for longer rides without it feeling like I'm reaching for the handlebars.
this is helpful! A bike shop talked me into a bigger size and it ended up injuring my shoulder from the reach in the drops. I just checked and based on the 'wheel axel' test its way to long.
Years ago, I was between two sizes and bought the bigger of the two when I really should have gone with a different brand. Just because you want that bike doesn't mean the geometry works for your body
I'm near enough 6'5", and yet a 58cm frame is the best fit for me because of long monkey arms, legs and a short torso. Everyone is a different geometry overall so you sometimes have to ignore the size charts and just try stuff out.
They really should have mentioned that, seems so many shops and riders focus on hight only. I’m 6’2 but more leg than average so larger size is always better due to stack hight. Especially on mountain bikes, good grief larges and several xl’seven my saddle towers above my bars like a pros road bike, not a good felling for an enduro bike LOL
I know when this subject comes up people are trying to be helpful. But I'm a pleasure rider not a Tour de France competitor. I don't ride in a full tuck for hours. I like a bike that is considered too big because it allows the seat and bars to be about the same height yet allows me to really pump the pedals without feeling crowded. I'm 183cm and ride a 63cm frame. Like I said, too big by most people's fashion standard. Thanks for your helpful advice, but I'll be me.
For various reasons I was off my bike for close to two years. I got back on it and suffered all sorts of grief. A particular one was my knees were at least parallel with my hips at the top of the peddle arc when peddling, possibly a little higher. The difference with now and before was that I was fit when I bought the bike and did not notice the extra effort in peddling. I took a picture and showed it to a couple of bike shops and the following info was consistent. The crank arms were too long for the frame causing such a high lift of the knee. Also the general opinion based on the photograph was the frame was the wrong size and too big for me. One issue that has since changed is weight loss which gives me more comfort while riding but the two issues remain. Oh, and by the way, I was fitted for the bike by a supposed professional.
I've a mind to develop a frame with just pedals, seat, and handlebars, but for which the stack and reach and angles are widely adjustable. The rider sits, the shop keeper adjusts until the rider is as comfortable as possible, and then the measurements are taken and used for selecting the best frame for the rider's price range. Then only minor tweaks are required for the perfect fit.
I’ve been on a motorcycle that was too high but I’ve never really had a choice with bike size, just happened to get one that was adjustable enough to work.
If you are going to do any type of serious bicycling for racing or frequent long rides, have a professional do your body measurements and recommend the right size frame for you along with seat height, stem size, etc. I raced triathlons for 12 years on the wrong size frame and my back is permanently damaged from being on the wrong size frame.
One thing all bike makers and LBSs should do is leave steerer tubes UNCUT!!! Wish my Ripley fork had been left uncut. I'm RIGHT on the edge of a medium frame and with the steerer tube short, I'm towering over the bars. 4cm more stack height and a bit longer stem would have been the PERFECT adjustment. Once you cut it off, it's GONE! Oh well! I bought a 14 year old tandem with an uncut steerer tube and boy what a find! So cool to have all that adjustment still available after all those years.
Can you do a video on direct to consumer bikes? It would seem that this is an increasing market segment and choosing the right size frame is a nightmare. In my own case, where I live (Vietnam) I have to order the frame I want before I can try it out, as typically they don't stock my (smaller) size. It's a big gamble when spending a big chunk of cash on a bike.
You are factually wrong on toe overlap. If you are super small and the top tube is short enough, a 700c wheel will be pulled back closer to the pedals--often creating toe overlap(if the head angle is standard racing geometry). The toe overlap does not mean that the frame is too small. It just means that they did not use a small size crank and/or cheat with the geometry to get rid of the toe overlap. I ride a xs Cervelo with a 650c wheel. I know. Every couple of years GCN does another dumb take on bikes for little people. :( Props to Emma. She did have a few excellent videos for small people.
Yeah, Emma Pooley addressed this very issue on 700c bikes a few years ago on this very channel! Weird to go back on what was great advice before. For shorter people, some frames just can't be ridden without toe overlap, therefore looking for bikes with smaller wheels might be your best option.
I prefer a Bike that is 1-2cm shorter in the top tube than I should ride. It just makes me feel “dominant” over the bike and I can throw it around a lot easier I feel. I also prefer to ride a Track/Single Speed bike and wheel overlap is always a problem
I get a 56cm frame, it's too big. I measured (using a method I saw Manon do, using a book and a door frrame for seat height) and I get a 52 frame. My toes actually rubbed the wheel on both. Thankfully not while I'm cornering, so there's that. Can't get it officially right but it feels ok to me
The idea that it is ok for a bike to be designed with toe overlap is crazy. Exactly how much is ok and when? The same thing for designs that allow pedal strikes on 650b wheels when cornering. Some safety issues should disclosed by the frame engineer but are not. Thanks for this video and you might also subtitle this video as the "10 clues that your bike was never intended for someone like you" even though your height is matched on the frame chart.
Toe overlap is bad advice, there are some short wheelbase frames that have toe overlap even when the size is correct. There may not be very much but its there
Superman is easy to fix. Replace drop bars with English backswept bars. They will not only be closer to body but also higher - which means more relaxed body position and more comfortable riding.
I had 3 previous road bikes all 54cm (i`m 5' 10"... ideal size for me) so ordered my 4th bike online as nowhere local sold the bike i wanted..... couldn't find a spec sheet anywhere so went with a 54 frame..... when it arrived the top tube was 56cm with a 140mm stem.. now i`m in the dilemma of buying a new frame and transferring parts over or sell bike and buy new.
if you bought a frame thats too big just get a shorter stem (usually nets you 3-5 cm) and move your saddle forward by 1cm or so - that will still be comfy and not hurt you. saving up to 5cm in sum is HUGE
true that! I've experienced that with my first bike, it was too small, and I am not the tallest person ever, more like 1,82m (close to 6' feet). Love it when Manon makes faces xD
Manon having to sit on the top tube in order to pedal Connor's bike is hilarious.
I was recently a support cyclist in a tiny running event. One runner got injured towards the end, so we switched. I had to run in way too much clothing and the injured runner - being almost 30cm shorter than me - had to ride like Manon for the last 5k :D
@@ArthurDentDK so they needed to ride your bike because of the injury just to get home ??
@@hellopsp180 Well, just to get to the finish, where we were all going for coffee afterwards :)
As hilarious as Manon sitting on a washing machine.
Had me laughing out loud as well, looked proper funny : )
Clue Number 11: Were you afraid to watch this video, knowing, deep down, that your expensive bike is the wrong size?
@Glen Gómez-Meade Yet another Canyon fatality... how do they sleep at night
@Glen Gómez-Meade Exactly.... such a bad place to be....!
@Glen Gómez-Meade is canyon too large or too small?
@@rameezmahmood4495 a normal m is a canyon s
I feel this way on my Grail. Glad to know I’m not alone
IMO. The majority of bike shops and brands do a poor job of making sure the rider buys the correct sized bike. It should be part of the service for all shops to have people measured.
That's true. Last year i bought my MTB bike and dude in shop tried so hard to sell me S size bike where M was way better fit
They'll sell you what's in stock not necessarily what fits.
@@XBKLYN Yup. But it's effed up. These bikes costs thousands of dollars. I've met people who bought a bike one size too big or one size too small and the amount of additional money that had to be thrown at making the bike fit was astronomical.
@@LRF49 I've seen that myself......instead of personally going through that kind of pain I purchased a Ti frame from Lynskey about 5 years ago which came with a fit guarantee...any problems just send it back no questions asked for the next size up or down. Of course there is some expense in swapping components and shipping but it's not anywhere near losing 4,000 bucks on the wrong fit. The last time I attempted to buy from the LBS they tried to put me on a 54 even though I always ride a 52 and even though I measured as 52 on their own sizing tool! Needless to say they only had 54's in stock. No thanks!
Last year I bought a new Emonda and the guy tried to sell me a $350 bike fit with the purchase of the bike….
Yep, I made that mistake once. It was a deal I couldn’t pass up on a new PERFORMANCE dual suspension bike, back in the 90s. I knew the frame was small, but I somehow thought I could make it work by maxing out the seat post height, shifting the seat back, and installing an extra long stem. It didn’t work. Heartbreaking. But then I married, and after undoing all my changes to the bike, it was perfect for my wife. She loves it!
Happy ending, nice.
How about us with no wife to give a small bike
@@renceonmc681sell it give it to him
Give it to sibling
@@Non_empireyt fr
Manon riding Connors bike is hilarious. Reminds me of when I was growing up and a lad around my way got a bike that he could “grow into”. His dad put wooden blocks on the pedals because the bike was so big. Long story short he was a late bloomer and had blocks on his pedals for about 4 years.
Everyone in Singapore, young and old, ride like Connor on Mannon’s bike, its a standard, it just cracks me up seeing this, feels like home.
if you are shorter than 170cm (5'7) toe overlap happens with 700c wheels anyway, regardless of bike type. frame size might be absolute bang on, but crank length and wheel size have to go down in size.
100% correct! Bike companies make different frame sizes but don't bother adjusting the sizes of the other parts. I recently replaced the 170cm cranks with 165cm which just are more comfortable with my leg length (I would probably be even happier with 160cm) When I win the loto I am going to get a custom frame with 650 wheels.
Indeed, The importance of a correct crank length is a severely underestimated sizing option. Small frame and 160 or 165 mm cranks. A small amount of compensation (~5mm) for toe overlap can be achieved by moving the cleat position for ward on the shoe. It's not perfect but the loss of efficiency is negligible versus the gain of comfort
@@yisraels4555 Taking the same path here!
I actually went down 170 > 165 > 160mm and now I can stay in aggressive position with tri-bars much longer.
My average cadence jumped about 10rpm!
The only problem is that the shorter the crank, the harder it is to get the bike moving from a standing start (650b can be helpful for this), but the actual ride is much smoother!
Why not just pair a shorter crank length with the 700c wheel?
170 is same frame M size as I have at 176cm and I have never hit my toes
We are now about to rush to our garage or bike shed to run these tests despite "suspecting" for a while that the bike is the wrong size. But it was such a bargain.... As always GCN, excellent advice.
Great video! I had this quandary with my recent purchase of my 2023 Cannondale Topstone carbon 3L. At 6’ tall, 210# and a 32” inseam Cannondale recommended that I buy a medium frame although their size chart stated that I could also use a large or extra large frame. The closest dealership that had the bike in stock was 4 hours away. I opted for the extra large frame as the medium frame would have yielded a very tall seat post and an aggressive lean on the handlebar. I did have to lower the handlebar to be parallel to the ground and to move the shifters higher to reduce the reach. I also had to cut the seat post. It is still above the handlebar height but I now have the perfect seat height and pedaling stroke. All of these changes resulted in none of your problems in your video. I now have a wicked fast and nimble bike.
Great tips! Didn’t know you could just see it with simple tests.
I’ve bought a bike, which after a lot of bikefit-appointments was apparently 2 sizes too big for me. (Need a short reach and saddle must go quite a bit up).
So maybe the top tip: go get yourself measured out by a bikefitting expert before you actually buy a bike. You won’t regret it.
This! I've been riding a 56 for the past 5 years. I only got a bike fit because I'm spending so much on my dreambike and I'm changing to a size 52. The other biggest thing I learn which I'm shocked GCN didn't mention is crank length! I'm going from 172.5 to 165, on the fitting jig this was the lightbulb moment where I realised how wrong it was. Crank length also impacts saddle height/knee flex so look into it!
5:43 Connor drafting like a giant, sneaky leprechaun! LOVED it! The Celt presenters rule and happy Yule to you both!
I'm 5'-8"and ride a 50cm, which is perfect for me. For a long time bike shops had me believing I should be on a 54 which always felt a bit odd in handling, too big. Until one day I sized down and boy it made all the difference in riding comfort for me.
50cm for 5' 8" is NOT the standard fit for most people. 54cm is the proper size for that height. At 5' 10" I was hemming and hawing between a 54 an 56. Went with the 54 and it was a mistake. Saddle to handlebar delta was just too large. 56-57 is ideal for me and I'm average dimensions for my height. Luckily, I was able to switch with a teammate so I could retain the custom team colors.
What works for you doesn't make the rule. If every 5' 8" person walking into the LBS were put on a 50cm, they'd be completely wrong most of the time.
@@dudeonbike800 Nancy clearly said that this is what works for her, it doesn't apply to everyone. I also feel like women often size down because of our shorter torso length. I'm 5'7" and am currently riding a 53 frame which is too big because the reach is too long.
50 is way too big for you. I’m 5’9 and have many bikes. One is a 37cm
@@dudeonbike800 just because the size works for you doesnt mean it SHOULD work on every body else. One's anatomy is different from the next person. I'm 5'9 and is very well comfortable with a 50/52.
Sizing has a lot fo factors : Age, medical history, flexibility, etc.. So stop saying "not the standard fit for most people" coz... there aint any standard fit.
@@dudeonbike800
point is, there is no real "proper" size. My personal condition is that the top tube is at such a height that there is at least 1" from my nuts touching it. There is the theoretical average person of that height, but lots of people don't fit that.
There is also variance in geometry, like the distance the BB shell is from the ground, in some cases, up to 2". I'm 5'8.5" and i found frames between 48-54 which all fit me. Numbers are one thing, knowing what they mean is another.
When I bought my first road bike in 2011 the shop said "if you can stand over the top tube with an inch of clearance it fits" and set my saddle height in about 90 seconds and sent me on my way. Flash forward to 2020 I bought my gravel bike online, using their fit tools based on my height. I set the saddle height of the new bike to match the old one and it just never felt (or looked) right. So I went to a real fitter who informed me my saddle was nearly THREE INCHES too low. And a bunch of other things out of whack, basically should have bought the size down from what I did. If you're going to spend thousands on a bike, don't listen to the brands websites, GO GET FIT. It will pay for itself in the long run.
Thank you for the Tip. I recently got a 26 inch bike (Wheel Size). The bike shop employee knows nothing about bikes at all. The shop owners just seem to want to sell. Thank goodness, I can stand over the top tube with an inch of clearance. I'm lucky I picked the right one with no bike knowledge.
The shop i brought my bike from also did fitting so believed they knew what they were doing but yeah realised after they just wanted the sale they didn't really care, so yeah makes things difficult
I'm 6'2" and was between sizes so opted for the larger size. Tat was a 60 cm rather than a 58 cm frame. In hindsight, I think I would have been better going a size down as the adjustments are easier to make that way.
I'm 5'10 and could have gone 54 cm or 56 cm and chose 56. I also sometimes get the feeling the smaller size would have been a better fit. That said, I have gotten my setup just right where I can make it through a century without hand, back, or seat pain.
@@mrrodriguezHLP Sounds like we followed the same journey there fella. I also eventually got the set-up right but like yourself, I can't help feeling that the smaller size would have been a better option. Take care and happy holidays. JP
I’m currently in that position currently with the same height going with the 60cm. Got most adjustments fixed but my reach to the handlebars needs work still.
Feeling like we are all on bikes slightly the wrong size haha. I have a 56 cm frame at 6'1" and it feels slightly too small overall, slight toe overlap sometimes, high seat post, slammed stem.
General advice: when you're between sizes, always go smaller. It's way easier to make the bike feel bigger rather than smaller.
I can see my front hub..the solution is bought big screen garmin so that i couldnt see the hub
Hahah
Good to have some on the bike humour at this time. Frames tended to be larger 20-30 years ago and road bikes had horizontal top tubes.Nowadays they are sloping and come in less sizes (brand dependant). It is easier to get a fit in 1 or 2 cm increments other than S,M,L etc. Have a bike fit done by a professional or a good shop,if not offered shop elsewhere is my advice.If buying online you must get the right frame including suitable geometry for the type of riding for you.
Tip about seeing the front hub led me to shorten my stem from 120mm to 100mm on my 56cm Cannondale CAAD 12 Ultegra. Perfect - and not twitchy even at speed. Thanks, mate!
I am 5'7 and I am using a CAAD12 size 48, 5'7 should be 52 if you're gonna go with the usual measurement sizing. But I found that the size 52 is bigger than what I need. After getting bike-fitted, I went from a standard 90mm stem to a 120mm stem and it handles like a dream. My bike fitter told me you can go 1 or even 2 sizes down for an easier adjustment. Especially when the rider (such as myself) prefers longer stems.
usually downsize for better handling, micro adjustments or if you're racing.
@The Bike Bodger yeah smallest is 44
I am 5’11” and I am using a CAAD size 51 frame and I feel great on it!
I'm also 5'7" and I had 53cm Cannondale Synapse that felt a tad bit too big for me. Now I'm riding a 49cm Lemond Zurich and all I can say is that it fits me much better and feels easier to ride. The thing about Lemond bikes is that its geometry is made to fit people with shorter legs and longer torsos better than other frames.
im 5'9. Using my size 48 mom caad 13 with 90mm. it was pain as hell
Another thing to take into account is your proportions. I.e. if you have a short torso and long legs you will need to run a much higher seat post which in turn will make a bike feel a lot more aggressive in it's stack height. In this situation I've found it to be better opting for the larger frame size as you can't increase a bikes stack without flipping a stem which doesn't look too pleasing on the eye imo.
Yes! I'm in between frame sizes, but have those proportions (short torso, long limbs) which usually makes the larger size work better
@@ligeialovelace what did you chose? I'm like loooong legs, I'm in doubt "L" or "XL"
@@alanz561 It really depends on the bike and other factors. I ended up going with the smaller of two sizes for my new bike, because that model/brand (Gazelle) runs a little large and also I put a suspension seatpost on it (which would have made the seat too high in the larger size).
But for previous bikes, I've chosen the larger of the in-between sizes and been fine with those after a bike fitting.
@@ligeialovelace I am like this. I am 5'10 and 32 inseam. all charts say 56 but i ride on a 58 2023 trek checkpoint sl5 as the 56 i look too crunched up in stock settings. the 58 opens up to better position and needs less adjustment. I think it is cause of my longer arms for my height and wide shoulders. everyone says im nuts and should be on a 56 but the bike shop with 40 year old road vets all looked at me riding both and said i looked better on the 58.... so I dunno.
I bought a road bike for the first time a few months ago so I could cycle to work. I just went off the sizing chart on the retailer’s website and got a medium frame.
Straight away the reach felt a little bit too long. So I did some research and used the method mentioned in the vid where if you can see the hub under/over the bar then the reach is too short/long. I could see the hub under my bars. I’ve ended up getting a new, shorter stem and adjusting the position of the brake levers to shorten the reach and now it’s spot on.
I’ve also heard experienced cyclists say those sizing charts aren’t very accurate. So if you’re thinking of getting a bike. That’s something to watch out for. Probably better off getting a bike fit beforehand.
I had no idea about the "see the hub" tip. Great one. I immediately went to my nearest bike to check no hub in sight. Phew! 😂
mean while on mine, i see hub all day :( RIP
I can see mine and I’m concern if it’s a true tip to follow now. I do 20 miles rides just fine.
After watching tip 2 I went running on my bike to check out where my front hub sits. Thankfully its exactly where the stem meets the bars and invisible from that position. Thank you LBS and bike fitter.
Bike fits are so useful!
I first started road biking in 2010 and purchased a Trek Madone 4.5. I didn’t know any better and went with the salesperson recommendation. What I didn’t realize is the bike had an endurance geometry, sloping top tube with 15cm headtube. I’m 5’8 with a 76cm inseam so the bike fit me.
I road this bike for 5 years and decided I would only get another bike when my abilities exceeded the current bike. 5 years later, I ordered project one madone in H1 fit size 52. So I went down a size with a smaller headtube but the reach was longer on the H1. I was able to fit this bike but was at the limit on the seat cap unless I wanted to purchase a longer seat cap.
7 years later, my H1 Madone developed and crack in the BB and Trek warrantied the frame. I have generation 6 Madone on order but I went back to a 54 size frame. With a better understanding of bike geometry, I realized the new H1.5 frame 52 would be smaller than my H1 frame (shorter reach as well) and the 54 would be closer to the H1 fit.
The last scene must be the only time Manon has been able to look at Connor eye to eye.🤣🤪
She's already done it on Track Bike (velodrome) video some times ago
I always see comments about bike frames which say, you can make a small frame bigger but you can’t make a big frame smaller… but that’s rubbish isn’t it?
If you are between sizes and go for the smaller bike to can increase stem length, and do the opposite if you buy the larger bike? You can also adjust the stack by changing the position of the spacers or flipping the stem, again either way.
The reason I’m asking this is I suspect that a lot of people go for the smaller because it’s lighter, but if you’re looking for an endurance bike should you go for the longer wheelbase as it’s more stable? Would appreciate comments as We are buying my wife’s first road bike, she is an active 60, looking at long easy rides rather than road racing.
I like the front hub tip 👍
0:05 "... switch up your position with a different stem..."
as the camera pans to the integrated bar/stem combo
OOOOOPS
You can buy a new bar/stem. My bike came with a Vision 5D integrated cockpit and a 110mm stem, but it can be swapped for a 90mm or a 130mm if needed. Thankfully, though, the stock size is a fit.
Great stuff, funny and informative. Could you do a follow-up with hints for people with abnormal body proportions? I have very long legs and had problems finding the right size and a good position.
Same here - add to that very long arms, my bike always looks like compromises had to be made for it to fit me...
They already did.... th-cam.com/video/DHAwyjPbDaw/w-d-xo.html
@@latenightjazzbartok That‘s for tall people. I‘m not tall (183cm) but I have long legs and a short torso. I almost always have to pick a frame that is too long for me because otherwise I will get problems with the min. insertion depth of the seatpost.
I love this video, One best way to know your bike frame size is to measure your height from the ground to your waist respectively, with your bike frame height from the ground to the frame seat post in accordance to your waist area, Also measure your comfort and sprinting sweet spot length across from your seat post to your handlebars...making sure you are not straining or leaning a lot forward. It's better also to know your frame or bike size number, let's say if your height is 5.8 you might roughly get an 18 frame size for that height, If your height is 6.0 you get a 19 t0 20ties frame bike size. It's really bad to buy an expensive bike only to realize later after long usage it's not your perfect size.
Funniest GCN video I’ve seen all year 😂😂 till I see yer bloopers of the year video 🤔🤔🤞🏻
if you have large enough feet and large wheels, your toe can hit the front wheel even with a correct size frame. My 70's road bike with 630x32 wheels has this problem...
racing bike geometry will have shorter wheelbase for faster acceleration and more responsive on cornering. Toe overlaps is quite common.
@@Dave_workshop Yep.
In all seriousness, Conor looked more comfortable than Manon. Therefore I would say when in doubt, go one size down
Or just a shorter stem.
I’m 6ft 3” and I’ve been stuck on a 50cm bike with a massive seat-tube as it’s the only road bike I could afford!
I thought Toe Overlap, extreme back pain and high knees were just part of the experience!
Wow definitely far too small! I’m 5’11 on 56cm. Any chance you can just sell the bike you have now and get a used replacement that is bigger?
Spot on!
People, especially men, buying tiny bikes for "maximum standover clearance" ends up with terrible bike sizing.
Do you spend hours ON your bike, or standing over it?
please don’t do this to yourself, i’m 5’11” and am most comfortable on a 56cm (riding a 57cm bianchi atm which feels slightly smaller than only it’s top tube measurement would suggest) sell and buy a cheap, well serviced, and most importantly a well fitting bike it’ll change cycling for you
Omg I thought I read 5'3"!! 6 foot?!! Nuts!!
Have a look OLD STEEL BIKES FRAMES .....they are cheap and very BIG .... then You can put moderns components.... I have a 63cm PEUGEOT ....highly recommended 😉👍
Manon should have been riding Conor's 36" wheel bike. That would be so funny to watch
3:13 "I just can't get enough..."
xD Freaking funny
Better to go slightly too small than slightly too big, always have adjustment in stem, bars and seatpost
I feel that my bike is the correct size, considering the advice on 'not' seeing the front hub, slightly bent arms and seat potion and i can ride very comfortably for 8 hours after which only my poor bum hurts because of hard saddle. However when standing up and riding up a steep hill at 20% I need to lean forward so much that my knees start to hit the end of the handle bar when I start to swerve left to right at slower speeds.
I feel like it is only a few cm of extra space missing. I have tried a slightly longer stem but that didn't feel right when riding on the hoods which is my standard position. As an alternative, I have been thinking of swinging the drop handle bars up a bit to give me a bit more space since when I ride on the drops I have my hand in the middle of the drops. Hence swinging them up a bit, my hands will move towards the end, but then getting to the brake leavers from the drops becomes a bit more cumbersome. Another option would be to swing them up just a little so the reach to the brake levers is still comfortable when in the drops but in addition to chop off 2cm from the end of the drops ??
By the way, I have recently met a lady who was riding on a bike which apparently was tailored to her by a local bike shop but she looked very much like Manon on Connor's bike. Her problem was less so the stretched position since she quite tall but the pressure this posture put on her sensitive lady's parts making a ride a highly uncomfortable affair. 🥴😵😵💫 The bike shop adjusted her saddle at such a steep angle forward to compensate for this pressure but of course she then had to push herself back every 2 minutes to maintain her pelvic bones on the saddle. This is very much a problem of not having female bike mechanics or sales people anywhere in our local bike shops (Edinburgh) except for 2 ladies in Innerleithen but there they deal predominantly with MTB's .
One of the better videos about bike sizing. Cheers
When in doubt, smaller is easier to compensate with longer a longer stem and longer seat tube.
Correcting for a frame too big is nigh impossible. Take a cue from the pro’s, they often ride frames seemingly to small with great effect. Also, smaller frames handle quicker and are more twitchy, and should be relatively lighter and stronger because the frame triangle is smaller.
Spot on
However there then is a potential problem when riding standing up and the issue with hitting your toes with the front wheel which can end up with you lying in the gutter.
@@robertrjm8115 meh, that doesn’t really happen ever except when standing stil, most bikes have some toe overlap you just don’t steer that extreme while riding. (When worried, shorter cranks or cleat set back can help you)
I rather have a longer tube and a shorter stem for stability purposes.
are you as stretched as pros? smaller frame means a smaller stack and often back pain or a lot of headset spacers - for the average cyclist to blindly follow a pro is not a good idea
Hi GCN 👋 I am a 15 year old Australian cyclist. I got my first proper road bike today! I love it, and I’m super grateful. Might you have any name suggestions? He’s a blue trek. Have a great day :)
6’3.5” and riding a 56. It feels right for me. Just got on it to try the “see the hub test” and it was hidden perfectly behind the bars with a 120 stem. My friend who works in a bike shop is still convinced I should be on a 61. My cross bike is a 58 and had to get an 80mm stem to get the reach right. Go with what works for you.
So many new adult riders end up with bikes that are too large. My theory is that we grow up being brought bikes that we can 'grow into' and that ends up being a pattern that we carry into adulthood. My first road bike was an XL Specialized Allez. I'm 192cm but it was HUGE.
The only problem I've ever had is with folding bikes which are generally one size fits all. For me the handlebars are usually a bit too close for me even with the saddle pushed back as far as it will go.
Yet another great GCN Vid, Conor looks like a giant on Manon's bike. A bike fit would save potentially $$$$. I had one done and when i bought the bike it almost fitted like a glove. All manufactures have different diminsions/measurements for S/M/L/XL so check the manufactures information. Borrow a friends bike of about the same size and crib from that, or get a test ride from your LBS!!!
Really good advice about checking the manufacturer's details: a 58cm may work just fine from one maker but feel massive with another.
Georgena Terry solved the toe overlap problem for small riders by substituting a smaller 24” wheel in front. This was genius, made it easy to get a well balanced frame geometry and eliminated toe overlap. The full size rear wheel gave rolling resistance about the same as other 700c bikes so you could keep up on a ride. But they were never generally adopted. It was a small brand and the bike shops that sold them often didn’ t promote them or diverted small riders to other brands. They would say things like “Oh, you’ll have to carry two different tube sizes in case of flats (not true, you can put a 700c tube in the smaller wheel in a pinch, I’ve done it). So it slowly went away. Shame.
This is the MOST useful video I have ever seen for helping to learn how to AVOID the wrong bike!
The tip about the handlebar being in line with the front hub, not behind or in front of it was very nice. I hadn't heard that one before.
My endurance road bike's frame size is 52 cm which is 2 cm shorter for my height of 175 cm. Fortunately, I was able to remedy it by replacing its stock stem with a raised stem. With that, my neck doesn't ache anymore even on my long rides unlike before.
But a 52 cm should be okay for someone of your height? I'm a tad shorter than you and both my bikes are a 52 cm, 54 cm just seemed a little too big.
Same here. 176cm, size 52. I have a long torso, so i couldnt get the bar low enough on 54s. 52 feels very comfy w a 130 stem
168cm with 677 saddle height and ride a 52 for 4 years. Gets lots of shoulder and neck pain. Last week crashed my bike and got a chance to decide on a 49 or 52 for the crash replacement. I really feel like going for the 49.
Can you guys help me? I'm only 5'7 yet the size of my bike is 56. I'm having a hard time riding it like it hurts my back, arms, necks and literally my whole body. What canI do? Thank you so much in advance.
@@calvinjohnjagorin3504 At that height easily a 52 or 54! Best try a couple for feel or go down the route of a bike fit which will confirm the exact size and other measurements for stem, cranks etc.
It’s also worth considering if you have long leg to torso ratio , some of these rules won’t apply and vice versa.
I have a long legs and short torso, my height is about 177cm and inseam 86cm. For which size better go? Smaller or larger? What do you think. Cheers
@@garikgarik1310 I'd always size down! Run a normal stem length and height seatpost.A frame without compact geo will have less seatpost exposed.
After listening to the pointers, I am convinced that my "iron horse" fits me like a glove. Thanks for sharing.
Conor on Manon's bike is comical and bringing me so much joy this morning.
smiling the whole time watching this video. Very funny and informative. I am 5'8 ride a 54 size frame, rides o.k. but, do miss my previous bike size 52.
That's true. I rode an XL sized Epic fully (26er) and an S sized road bike. A smaller bike is much more comfortable, but you can't always fine tune the geometry/handling with a new seatpost/stem.
I think I’m guilty of always buying too big a bike. During Feb ‘21 I was grateful to get my hands on an XL Giant Defy Advanced 2 with (group set of the people) 105. I.m 6’1 but with long legs. Giant dealer said it was perfect due to stand over. Another Giant (and Cube) dealer said I was between sizes. I shortened the stem 20mm and narrowed the bars (from 44 to 42) and am much comfier, up still not comfy on long rides. Apparently road might copy MTB-XC and Gravel with longer top tubes and shorter stems. Thoughts? I did buy a Cube gravel bike after in a large, and the fit feels better, it wondered if that was just because of slack geometry? TIA.
Manon, glad you have your winter kit with a good chamois, riding that crossbar cannot be comfortable
5:40 Look at Connor's face when he experiences the strange feeling of drafting first time ever in his life :-) He misses the wind hitting his face
Thanks for this, I'm planning to get a bike soon (in a country where literally no bikes are available, we have to import just to taste one!) and this video will surely help!
Get.
A.
Bike.
Fit.
When deciding on the budget for your new bike factor in the cost of a bike fit. This can also apply to buying second hand bikes, arrange a bike fit first then take all the guess work out of your purchase.
Entertaining and informative, that's great presenting ! Many thanks GCN.
Got good 2nd hand deal on mountain bike - my height is in the 'recommended range' for 2 sizes and this was the smaller (I did test it btw). First decent ride out was seriously aching in the arms and shoulders - a large (but not not silly) 40deg stem turned it from zero to hero. So; 1, it's worth trying a tweek. 2, propably better a bit small than a bit large. 3, consider risk/reward on such purchases! 4, imo it's likely fixable if it felt ok on a short test. On road I definately prefer the larger frame.
The worst problem is having a frame that is too big. It is difficult to make adjustments to make it comfortable and safe, whereas a too small frame, you can extend the stem and make minor adjustments. Although I am 5'7" woman with a long leg, I actually feel right on a a small frame, though technically, on the charts, I am a medium. The best test is does it feel right, and safe.
See it all the time in the shop. It’s a difficult conversation to have with someone who’s bought the wrong size bike already.
Amazing that Manon could ride that bike!
I’m 5’6. Everything is on the edge of being wrong size 😔
What size or bike do u have?
😂 manon sitting on the top tube pedaling is the best representation i have seen .
As someone with a daft leg to torso ratio, I get signs my bike is both too small and too big, even on an endurance oriented geometry. Safe to say I’ll never ride a ‘race fit’ frame!
If you can't ride on the drops for 10 mins, it's probably the wrong size, with bars too low.
Sooooo many ride far too small a frame.
I'm 6 ' 4" tall and not out of proportion. For years I went with the manufacturers' recommendations for frame size which was always firmly 60cm so not in between sizes. Eventually I came to the conclusion that the bikes I was buying were too big so stepped down on my last purchase to a 58cm frame and the fit is now perfect. The other bugbear with bike manufacturers is that as the frames sizes get bigger they fit longer stems, wider bars and longer cranks which makes no sense at all. I would advise anyone shelling out several thousand pounds for a new bike to get a bike fit first unless you have a really good idea what your size should be based on past experience.
I'm the same height as you, and I'll 100% give a 58 a try for my next bike. I have a 61cm frame now, and it always feel as if it's just a tiny bit to large for me to ride it comfortably for longer rides without it feeling like I'm reaching for the handlebars.
Agree, Spesh say I’m a 58 at 6’1 but omg I’m not. I use my 58 as a Zwift bike and I’m using a tiny mtb stem as steering doesn’t matter.
this is helpful! A bike shop talked me into a bigger size and it ended up injuring my shoulder from the reach in the drops. I just checked and based on the 'wheel axel' test its way to long.
Years ago, I was between two sizes and bought the bigger of the two when I really should have gone with a different brand. Just because you want that bike doesn't mean the geometry works for your body
I'm near enough 6'5", and yet a 58cm frame is the best fit for me because of long monkey arms, legs and a short torso. Everyone is a different geometry overall so you sometimes have to ignore the size charts and just try stuff out.
They really should have mentioned that, seems so many shops and riders focus on hight only. I’m 6’2 but more leg than average so larger size is always better due to stack hight. Especially on mountain bikes, good grief larges and several xl’seven my saddle towers above my bars like a pros road bike, not a good felling for an enduro bike LOL
@@MrRay645 I bet! It's amazing how our bikes sometimes tell a story of our body geometry and how oddly sized we can be haha!
@@MrRay645 what size did u choose? im like u, in doubt of "L" or "XL"
I know when this subject comes up people are trying to be helpful. But I'm a pleasure rider not a Tour de France competitor. I don't ride in a full tuck for hours. I like a bike that is considered too big because it allows the seat and bars to be about the same height yet allows me to really pump the pedals without feeling crowded. I'm 183cm and ride a 63cm frame. Like I said, too big by most people's fashion standard. Thanks for your helpful advice, but I'll be me.
For various reasons I was off my bike for close to two years. I got back on it and suffered all sorts of grief. A particular one was my knees were at least parallel with my hips at the top of the peddle arc when peddling, possibly a little higher. The difference with now and before was that I was fit when I bought the bike and did not notice the extra effort in peddling. I took a picture and showed it to a couple of bike shops and the following info was consistent. The crank arms were too long for the frame causing such a high lift of the knee. Also the general opinion based on the photograph was the frame was the wrong size and too big for me. One issue that has since changed is weight loss which gives me more comfort while riding but the two issues remain. Oh, and by the way, I was fitted for the bike by a supposed professional.
Also, proportions play a big role. For me, as I have very short legs and a longer upper body, getting the fit right is quite a challenge.
very useful video, to save as a reference
very funny Manon
actually this one was easy for you, having both Manon and Connor
They both were struggling Soo much!😭😂😂
I've a mind to develop a frame with just pedals, seat, and handlebars, but for which the stack and reach and angles are widely adjustable. The rider sits, the shop keeper adjusts until the rider is as comfortable as possible, and then the measurements are taken and used for selecting the best frame for the rider's price range. Then only minor tweaks are required for the perfect fit.
I SAW this invention in bicycle shop in Denmark 40 years ago, never seen it since, sadly
I’ve been on a motorcycle that was too high but I’ve never really had a choice with bike size, just happened to get one that was adjustable enough to work.
If you are going to do any type of serious bicycling for racing or frequent long rides, have a professional do your body measurements and recommend the right size frame for you along with seat height, stem size, etc. I raced triathlons for 12 years on the wrong size frame and my back is permanently damaged from being on the wrong size frame.
One thing all bike makers and LBSs should do is leave steerer tubes UNCUT!!! Wish my Ripley fork had been left uncut. I'm RIGHT on the edge of a medium frame and with the steerer tube short, I'm towering over the bars. 4cm more stack height and a bit longer stem would have been the PERFECT adjustment. Once you cut it off, it's GONE! Oh well!
I bought a 14 year old tandem with an uncut steerer tube and boy what a find! So cool to have all that adjustment still available after all those years.
Too funny watching Manon and Conor ride each other's bikes BOOSH! LOL
Such a lovely combination of the obvious, the humorous, and informative.
I know its childish but double entendre with Manon referring to a massive stem that's 13 or 14cm made me laugh so hard.
I'm 6' 0 and I'm comfortable on my 58cm frame. Standard cranks and stem. Nothing fancy.
What are your proportions? I feel like my reach might be too much I have long arms long legs short torso
Can you do a video on direct to consumer bikes? It would seem that this is an increasing market segment and choosing the right size frame is a nightmare. In my own case, where I live (Vietnam) I have to order the frame I want before I can try it out, as typically they don't stock my (smaller) size. It's a big gamble when spending a big chunk of cash on a bike.
You are factually wrong on toe overlap. If you are super small and the top tube is short enough, a 700c wheel will be pulled back closer to the pedals--often creating toe overlap(if the head angle is standard racing geometry). The toe overlap does not mean that the frame is too small. It just means that they did not use a small size crank and/or cheat with the geometry to get rid of the toe overlap. I ride a xs Cervelo with a 650c wheel. I know.
Every couple of years GCN does another dumb take on bikes for little people. :(
Props to Emma. She did have a few excellent videos for small people.
Yeah, Emma Pooley addressed this very issue on 700c bikes a few years ago on this very channel! Weird to go back on what was great advice before.
For shorter people, some frames just can't be ridden without toe overlap, therefore looking for bikes with smaller wheels might be your best option.
Having Conor ride a bike 3 sizes to small is funny. Like watching a gaint riding a baby tricycle.🤣👍
Kudos for suffering the horrendous fit of the wrong size bike but you both looked so funny on them 😁
Thanks this video was very informative especially with the toe overlap.... Which I have Just experienced
I prefer a Bike that is 1-2cm shorter in the top tube than I should ride. It just makes me feel “dominant” over the bike and I can throw it around a lot easier I feel.
I also prefer to ride a Track/Single Speed bike and wheel overlap is always a problem
Anyone in the market for a high end bike should include a bike fit as part of the budget before even picking the bike
I get a 56cm frame, it's too big. I measured (using a method I saw Manon do, using a book and a door frrame for seat height) and I get a 52 frame. My toes actually rubbed the wheel on both. Thankfully not while I'm cornering, so there's that. Can't get it officially right but it feels ok to me
The idea that it is ok for a bike to be designed with toe overlap is crazy. Exactly how much is ok and when? The same thing for designs that allow pedal strikes on 650b wheels when cornering. Some safety issues should disclosed by the frame engineer but are not. Thanks for this video and you might also subtitle this video as the "10 clues that your bike was never intended for someone like you" even though your height is matched on the frame chart.
I'm 6'1 and love long stems, so always rock a 56cm frame and 120-130mm stem length.
Toe overlap is bad advice, there are some short wheelbase frames that have toe overlap even when the size is correct. There may not be very much but its there
Correct.....toe overlap is a moot point, in fact, old timers speak of it as a totally normal element of cycling.
4:16 where is Manon sit on 😂😂😂 does is gonna still be ok if take longer ride 😂
Manon looks funny in that bike
Superman is easy to fix. Replace drop bars with English backswept bars. They will not only be closer to body but also higher - which means more relaxed body position and more comfortable riding.
I had 3 previous road bikes all 54cm (i`m 5' 10"... ideal size for me) so ordered my 4th bike online as nowhere local sold the bike i wanted..... couldn't find a spec sheet anywhere so went with a 54 frame..... when it arrived the top tube was 56cm with a 140mm stem.. now i`m in the dilemma of buying a new frame and transferring parts over or sell bike and buy new.
I'm 5'7" and riding a 54cm... I've always suspected the bike is too big, but this helps confirm it for me.
@@WeeSleeket is there space between your buttocks and the frame if you stand feet the floor with your bike between your legs?
That was fun, nice light entertainment. Now, let's race on the wrong bikes and see what happens.
if you bought a frame thats too big just get a shorter stem (usually nets you 3-5 cm) and move your saddle forward by 1cm or so - that will still be comfy and not hurt you. saving up to 5cm in sum is HUGE
true that! I've experienced that with my first bike, it was too small, and I am not the tallest person ever, more like 1,82m (close to 6' feet). Love it when Manon makes faces xD