I’ve got the same model. I don’t trust the ‘never change the oil’, nor do I trust the stow and go feature. So basically, I change the oil in standard fashion, and store it normally.
Yep a good idea to change oil once every year. On my 13 Y.O. Lawnboy Brigs motor I changed that ones oil every 3 years and it still runs great and usually starts on 1-2-3 pull. I unfortunately thru the years hit some roots in my yard that brought that motor to an instant stop and that really pretty bad to do. I will try very hard to to do that to this toro mower. I will likely do the oil change every couple of years. Yea, also I don't feel super comfortable stowing for months in the stow position but I believe it can handle it. Im not needing to stow mine but I do like for washing out the bottom when I know the underside is caked with wet grass. A cleaner underside to start with each mow stays cleaner longer and resists additional grass buildup. Take care of things we/you/I own and they last so much longer and run better.
It is possible to never drain the oil and completely replace with all fresh oil with everything that uses oil, but no sensible person with mechanical/motorsports background would recommend or do this practice. A drastic color change in the oil for 1hr runtime and the oil did have plenty of small metal flakes throughout. One viewer called me dumb/video was worthless for mentioning oil changes speech. TH-cam is stocked full of nuckle-heads.
good practice changing the initial fill of oil after the first few mows. However I would seriously avoid washing your mower like that often, maybe once a year. Just use a scraper to get the clumps that have stuck to the bottom of the deck.
I've elected in the past to do the scrapper thing. I did it off and on for 12 yrs with last mower because of the added difficulty and the effort to clean the underside plus every time my hands would turn green and just get nasty. In the manual or the quick reference manual of this mover, it recommends washing out the underside after each use. (but also states you don't have to change the oil ever but notes you can and would do typically once a year or season). Likely this advice is pointing to when the grass is more wet and accumulates/clumps up and not coming off otherwise. Built up grass does affect the blade/motor performance. Also don't forget some movers come with the built-in attachment to clean the underneath portion with water which is very high speed. All done for the reason of just keeping cleaner. Note: If the grass I mowed was dry then I wouldn't feel the need to clean as often. Just depends on the year, environment and the rainfall amount. This year tons of rain which is good. When it rains in North Texas, the green grass will retain the moisture on average up to 5-6-7 days but grows 6-8 inches in that time. You need to mow while there's moisture. The middle of the hot summer, dry grass, then the grass grows much slower 1" or turns brown and doesn't grow at all. Requires less under the deck cleaning. Wet/damp grass stuck underneath is what causes rust and I often see mold develop, and then when it sits wet for days and dries it becomes hard and smells pretty rank. A garden hose washing is always better than using a pressure washer uness your cleaning concrete. I did a google search online to see if I could find any real negative related effects to washing out the bottom of a mower and I didn't find anything. Thanks for commenting. If you find articles showing bad effects of washing the bottom with a garden hose, post here and I will read and make adjustments to my future routine.
One of my "so called" best mower/lawn-care youtubers with millions of views per video. He discusses proper under deck mower cleaning procedure with water regularly for best results and care for the mowers deck. The more you do the cleaning w/water (due to hands off ease), the easier the deck will clean up after each mow or few mows. Pointed out towards middle to end of video.
@@GettingthruLife I looked a little more into the super recycler and see that is has an aluminum deck so actually washing the underside wouldn't be an issue, the steel decks will inevitably shed their paint from the underside and slowly rot out. You could use some type of undercoatings to make it easier to hose off!
@@RJ-oi9fh The $800+ super Recycler version is aluminum. This one I have is steel. I note in my video that it's a good idea after washing the underside of mower to run the mower for a couple of minutes to dry it out. I followed that procedure and then blew off the top portion of mower dry with my shopvac. Shopvac didnt make it into the video because I didn't hit record. Any way you mow or use mower, you're likely to get moisture under the deck, I do. Built up wet grass and dirt left under the mower's deck will speed up the rust process 10-fold. My 12 year old Lawnboy mower I used evey 5-6 days @ 7-8 months a year, had just minor surface rust underneath but no physical damage from that rust. I washed it and scraped it a couple time a month for those 12 years. th-cam.com/video/u_HEAJ9-cZs/w-d-xo.html Anyways, thanks for sharing your comments. I take into consideration people's comments and suggestions.
Interesting comments about bogging down. I could understand if it was a Toro with the 150cc engine. A friend bought a 21462 model last year with the 163cc and says he's happy with his. He probably only mows once a week but after work. So probably 4 PM for him after grass dries out. He has a yard of fescue and weeds.
I'm very happy with this mover. In the next video, I look more at its ability to cut grass while also paying attention to what's happening on the underside of the mower. Mulching tall grass or vegetation is usually not the best method. Likely to bog down push mowers depending on the speed the owner pushes the mower. Bagging provides better results if wet and damp. The rear side chute will almost always perform better/ best with taller grass and including damp/wet. I'm still waiting on my discharge chute. A little disappointing that it's taking this long to be sent. Really should have come with this mower. Bearing wheels a huge plus, 5 year warranty (though I will blow past that warranty and never need it), the Personal Pace throttle is nice, good gas consumption, and looks great too. 499.00 is a fair price for this in today's economy.
I did not have on hand the two extra squeeze clamps. In reality, due to the location of how the filter is in between the lines, a tight snug fit, and this line of hose is then wedged in between the fuel tank and the nozzle right up next to the airfilter box. It takes some force to push the hoses on and off all four nipples/inlet/outlet. I could like mow for 15 years and never need the clamps. There is 98.999% zero chance of it leaking and or being pulled off. If I had them then I would have put them on, but now due to the extent of the effort to put on, I dodn't even know if I take it apart to just put those on to play it safe. Up to you to choose or have before hand.
I never had the oil changed in the mower. I got divorced 6 years ago. Killed the ride on mower. Now have a push mower. Maybe I'll ask if anyone can help with the oil change. My son who is 23 mows but I don't think he takes care of it. I'm so sick of everything.
That is a lot to deal with. I wasn't meaning to downplay your hardships. Life is much tougher since 2019 in my experience. The enviroment around a lot of us is going down the tubes in my opinion. A true loss in morals and values of people. I hope you can correct the your home situation. I am in a very unusual housing sitution for the last 3 years and at anytime need to move. Reason I have not nailed down a permanent tegu room and out outdoor enclosure option. Everyday is a wait and see what's around the corner the next day. I will say a prayer for you as I believe/understand God/Christ works with those with faith in his Son and I have a strong faith.
@@GettingthruLife I didn't think you were downplaying my hardships. I learn stuff, and I got on the 23 y/o about changing the oil too 😄 I hope you are ok with your housing too. I love the caddywampus word! I do look forward to your videos.
@@roxannesides3200 I prayed for you and I sure hope the troubling things happening tone down. Deaths of family, death of animals, lost animals, family disputes, money, jobs, heath are a monumemtal deal. I hope your tegu come out of hiding. if it 50-60-low 70's there they maybe camped out until 80 degrees.
I just bought two of these for my Uncle and I and it sucks with thick grass. It's constantly bogging down and I have to stop and lift it up to clear out the grass. Yes it mulches well and the personal pace is great but it's useless if you keep having to stop until it clears itself of grass clippings so it won't bog down. My grass wasn't even very tall. I'll be taking these back to Lowe's.
Just a reminder, this mower is not really intended for cutting regularly thick and tall grass with mulching, and the rear chute blocked off. If you care to read further then do. ( In the case of using the rear discharge port without the door pull up and a chute attached is always just about pointless) Also, a lot of times, the grass is damp in many situations where clogging is encountered. Green grass has added moisture retained in it depending on lawn and time of year or weather. Mulching is appropriate for lawns that are mowed regularly and maintained. Mulching is not a good use for tall, overgrown grass and damp grass. For lawns that are more overgrown, then there's the side/rear discharge chute or the bagging attachment method. For high and overgrown lawns the rear discharge with chute is the better option. Mulching taller grass nearly always results in clogging because there's too much material underneath and nowhere for it to go based on escaping the mower deck per the height of cut setting. One option if you just have to mulch because bagging takes longer, then may need to run over the space a 2nd time in the opposite direction. Damp and wet grass is just always more dificult for pretty much all mowers. Grass doesn't flow well no matter what push mower using. Even incountered on commercial mowers. I see lawn care pros cutting damp grass and from time to time they need to turn the mowers on the side and clear out their bottoms or their dischare chute. In addition, there is the height of cut setting. Taller and thicker lawn cutting often requires a higher setting. Then, if needed, can require a 2nd pass to cut lower depending on the desired result. Ease of future cutting is a primary reason to maintain a lawn. Easier to maintain/cut in the future. Also, ease of cutting depends on the type of lawn as in what's being cut. Lawns vary from home to home and state to state. If you, your father or a neighbor are cutting some heavy and overly tall grass or more wild brush, then you may need to opt for a machine that's geared toward brush clearing. I've used mowers in the past like the high-powered, massive BadBoy commercial zero turn riding mower that's struggled with cutting. I've also worked for a lawn service using other big motor commercial 30"+ mowers that failed to cut and stop running. If you just dislike the Toro mower then option to teturn it back and try another brand, but I have found most mowers in a similar price range work at nearly the same level.
@GettingthruLife I appreciate the reply and information. The thing is I even raised it a setting halfway through my backyard and it still was bogging down. After I finished that half of the lawn, I decided to put it back down to the original setting and go over that half again. Even doing this it was bogging down. We have had a lot of rain here in Utah this Spring but I waited at least three days after the last rain to cut. I thought about using the discharge but I haven't registered it yet so they'll send it to me. Maybe it's better for grass like St. Agustine? I didn't have this issue with my EGO but it also didn't mulch or cut as well either. Maybe I need to raise the cutting height?
@@Loyalwhiteknight This is odd I'm thinking. Of course I'm not there and that is everything. Every bodies situation is /can be so different. Sounds like something is wrong with your mower if it's bogging down. My Max mower does good in 6"-7" high (wild weed/grass mix) terrible lawn and now because of the high amount of rain it is always wet to a degree even though dry outside for 2-3 days. Of course you may be aware but I'll suggest the obvious, good way to tell how much moisture is in the grass is to look under the mower deck and see how much is sticking plus your shoes turn green walking behind the mower. After just about every mow I look under the deck to see quickly if needs cleaning. A mower can get buildup grass underneath often, wet or semi-dry, that really effects the blade cutting performance. Until you get a scraper or remove the buildup surrounding grass with your hands and remove it...the mowers just don't seem to run right with built up grass underneath. I suggest putting it up in the stow upright position and look underneath. Make sure the underside is free of buildup. If it does have areas of buildup wash with garden hose and a nozzle until see all metal around. Even the rear port tunnel can get caked up and get blocked. Yep cutting and blowing grass out the rear with the bag door down is worthless. I registed my mower and requested the chute about 5-6 days ago. Let me know how your looks underneath and if this helps.
I can tell you that it was caked with grass so I switched to my Uncles since it was brand new to see if it did better only to find it did the exact same thing.
@@Loyalwhiteknight I will likely make one more video once I get my chute and show my mower cut my yards 7"-8" tall lawn with the mulcher setup, then the bag and then the chute. My grass will be damp because of all the rain we are getting. I typically like to cut down to 2.5 to 3 inch tall as lower it turns more off brown light tan. We will see how it does and see if it bogs down like you are seeing or what grass is left behind or what everything looks like, the good and the bad. A nice grass lawn compared to mine should be a lot easier to cut. I can even cut a section of my neighbors pro seeded and grown grass and see how it does there too. Likely next Saturday if I get my toro chute delivered.
![ช่วยพาฉันผ่านเวลา - วสันต์17 [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HFnntWoqc54/mqdefault.jpg)
good pick!
Se ve buen potente 🎉🎉
Nice work. Thanks for sharing !!
I’ve got the same model. I don’t trust the ‘never change the oil’, nor do I trust the stow and go feature. So basically, I change the oil in standard fashion, and store it normally.
Yep a good idea to change oil once every year. On my 13 Y.O. Lawnboy Brigs motor I changed that ones oil every 3 years and it still runs great and usually starts on 1-2-3 pull. I unfortunately thru the years hit some roots in my yard that brought that motor to an instant stop and that really pretty bad to do. I will try very hard to to do that to this toro mower. I will likely do the oil change every couple of years. Yea, also I don't feel super comfortable stowing for months in the stow position but I believe it can handle it. Im not needing to stow mine but I do like for washing out the bottom when I know the underside is caked with wet grass. A cleaner underside to start with each mow stays cleaner longer and resists additional grass buildup. Take care of things we/you/I own and they last so much longer and run better.
They say right on the mower that you NEVER have to change the oil….I think I will after the first mow.
It is possible to never drain the oil and completely replace with all fresh oil with everything that uses oil, but no sensible person with mechanical/motorsports background would recommend or do this practice. A drastic color change in the oil for 1hr runtime and the oil did have plenty of small metal flakes throughout. One viewer called me dumb/video was worthless for mentioning oil changes speech. TH-cam is stocked full of nuckle-heads.
good practice changing the initial fill of oil after the first few mows. However I would seriously avoid washing your mower like that often, maybe once a year. Just use a scraper to get the clumps that have stuck to the bottom of the deck.
I've elected in the past to do the scrapper thing. I did it off and on for 12 yrs with last mower because of the added difficulty and the effort to clean the underside plus every time my hands would turn green and just get nasty.
In the manual or the quick reference manual of this mover, it recommends washing out the underside after each use. (but also states you don't have to change the oil ever but notes you can and would do typically once a year or season). Likely this advice is pointing to when the grass is more wet and accumulates/clumps up and not coming off otherwise. Built up grass does affect the blade/motor performance. Also don't forget some movers come with the built-in attachment to clean the underneath portion with water which is very high speed. All done for the reason of just keeping cleaner.
Note: If the grass I mowed was dry then I wouldn't feel the need to clean as often. Just depends on the year, environment and the rainfall amount. This year tons of rain which is good. When it rains in North Texas, the green grass will retain the moisture on average up to 5-6-7 days but grows 6-8 inches in that time. You need to mow while there's moisture. The middle of the hot summer, dry grass, then the grass grows much slower 1" or turns brown and doesn't grow at all. Requires less under the deck cleaning.
Wet/damp grass stuck underneath is what causes rust and I often see mold develop, and then when it sits wet for days and dries it becomes hard and smells pretty rank. A garden hose washing is always better than using a pressure washer uness your cleaning concrete.
I did a google search online to see if I could find any real negative related effects to washing out the bottom of a mower and I didn't find anything. Thanks for commenting. If you find articles showing bad effects of washing the bottom with a garden hose, post here and I will read and make adjustments to my future routine.
One of my "so called" best mower/lawn-care youtubers with millions of views per video. He discusses proper under deck mower cleaning procedure with water regularly for best results and care for the mowers deck. The more you do the cleaning w/water (due to hands off ease), the easier the deck will clean up after each mow or few mows. Pointed out towards middle to end of video.
@@GettingthruLife I looked a little more into the super recycler and see that is has an aluminum deck so actually washing the underside wouldn't be an issue, the steel decks will inevitably shed their paint from the underside and slowly rot out. You could use some type of undercoatings to make it easier to hose off!
@@RJ-oi9fh The $800+ super Recycler version is aluminum. This one I have is steel. I note in my video that it's a good idea after washing the underside of mower to run the mower for a couple of minutes to dry it out. I followed that procedure and then blew off the top portion of mower dry with my shopvac. Shopvac didnt make it into the video because I didn't hit record. Any way you mow or use mower, you're likely to get moisture under the deck, I do. Built up wet grass and dirt left under the mower's deck will speed up the rust process 10-fold. My 12 year old Lawnboy mower I used evey 5-6 days @ 7-8 months a year, had just minor surface rust underneath but no physical damage from that rust. I washed it and scraped it a couple time a month for those 12 years. th-cam.com/video/u_HEAJ9-cZs/w-d-xo.html
Anyways, thanks for sharing your comments. I take into consideration people's comments and suggestions.
Interesting comments about bogging down. I could understand if it was a Toro with the 150cc engine. A friend bought a 21462 model last year with the 163cc and says he's happy with his. He probably only mows once a week but after work. So probably 4 PM for him after grass dries out. He has a yard of fescue and weeds.
I'm very happy with this mover. In the next video, I look more at its ability to cut grass while also paying attention to what's happening on the underside of the mower. Mulching tall grass or vegetation is usually not the best method. Likely to bog down push mowers depending on the speed the owner pushes the mower. Bagging provides better results if wet and damp. The rear side chute will almost always perform better/ best with taller grass and including damp/wet.
I'm still waiting on my discharge chute. A little disappointing that it's taking this long to be sent. Really should have come with this mower.
Bearing wheels a huge plus, 5 year warranty (though I will blow past that warranty and never need it), the Personal Pace throttle is nice, good gas consumption, and looks great too. 499.00 is a fair price for this in today's economy.
What clamps do you use for the fuel line
I did not have on hand the two extra squeeze clamps. In reality, due to the location of how the filter is in between the lines, a tight snug fit, and this line of hose is then wedged in between the fuel tank and the nozzle right up next to the airfilter box. It takes some force to push the hoses on and off all four nipples/inlet/outlet. I could like mow for 15 years and never need the clamps. There is 98.999% zero chance of it leaking and or being pulled off. If I had them then I would have put them on, but now due to the extent of the effort to put on, I dodn't even know if I take it apart to just put those on to play it safe. Up to you to choose or have before hand.
I never had the oil changed in the mower.
I got divorced 6 years ago. Killed the ride on mower. Now have a push mower.
Maybe I'll ask if anyone can help with the oil change. My son who is 23 mows but I don't think he takes care of it.
I'm so sick of everything.
That is a lot to deal with. I wasn't meaning to downplay your hardships. Life is much tougher since 2019 in my experience. The enviroment around a lot of us is going down the tubes in my opinion. A true loss in morals and values of people. I hope you can correct the your home situation. I am in a very unusual housing sitution for the last 3 years and at anytime need to move. Reason I have not nailed down a permanent tegu room and out outdoor enclosure option. Everyday is a wait and see what's around the corner the next day. I will say a prayer for you as I believe/understand God/Christ works with those with faith in his Son and I have a strong faith.
@@GettingthruLife I didn't think you were downplaying my hardships. I learn stuff, and I got on the 23 y/o about changing the oil too 😄
I hope you are ok with your housing too. I love the caddywampus word!
I do look forward to your videos.
@@roxannesides3200 I prayed for you and I sure hope the troubling things happening tone down. Deaths of family, death of animals, lost animals, family disputes, money, jobs, heath are a monumemtal deal. I hope your tegu come out of hiding. if it 50-60-low 70's there they maybe camped out until 80 degrees.
I just bought two of these for my Uncle and I and it sucks with thick grass. It's constantly bogging down and I have to stop and lift it up to clear out the grass. Yes it mulches well and the personal pace is great but it's useless if you keep having to stop until it clears itself of grass clippings so it won't bog down. My grass wasn't even very tall. I'll be taking these back to Lowe's.
Just a reminder, this mower is not really intended for cutting regularly thick and tall grass with mulching, and the rear chute blocked off. If you care to read further then do.
( In the case of using the rear discharge port without the door pull up and a chute attached is always just about pointless) Also, a lot of times, the grass is damp in many situations where clogging is encountered. Green grass has added moisture retained in it depending on lawn and time of year or weather.
Mulching is appropriate for lawns that are mowed regularly and maintained. Mulching is not a good use for tall, overgrown grass and damp grass. For lawns that are more overgrown, then there's the side/rear discharge chute or the bagging attachment method. For high and overgrown lawns the rear discharge with chute is the better option. Mulching taller grass nearly always results in clogging because there's too much material underneath and nowhere for it to go based on escaping the mower deck per the height of cut setting.
One option if you just have to mulch because bagging takes longer, then may need to run over the space a 2nd time in the opposite direction.
Damp and wet grass is just always more dificult for pretty much all mowers. Grass doesn't flow well no matter what push mower using. Even incountered on commercial mowers. I see lawn care pros cutting damp grass and from time to time they need to turn the mowers on the side and clear out their bottoms or their dischare chute.
In addition, there is the height of cut setting. Taller and thicker lawn cutting often requires a higher setting. Then, if needed, can require a 2nd pass to cut lower depending on the desired result. Ease of future cutting is a primary reason to maintain a lawn. Easier to maintain/cut in the future. Also, ease of cutting depends on the type of lawn as in what's being cut. Lawns vary from home to home and state to state.
If you, your father or a neighbor are cutting some heavy and overly tall grass or more wild brush, then you may need to opt for a machine that's geared toward brush clearing. I've used mowers in the past like the high-powered, massive BadBoy commercial zero turn riding mower that's struggled with cutting. I've also worked for a lawn service using other big motor commercial 30"+ mowers that failed to cut and stop running.
If you just dislike the Toro mower then option to teturn it back and try another brand, but I have found most mowers in a similar price range work at nearly the same level.
@GettingthruLife I appreciate the reply and information. The thing is I even raised it a setting halfway through my backyard and it still was bogging down. After I finished that half of the lawn, I decided to put it back down to the original setting and go over that half again. Even doing this it was bogging down. We have had a lot of rain here in Utah this Spring but I waited at least three days after the last rain to cut. I thought about using the discharge but I haven't registered it yet so they'll send it to me. Maybe it's better for grass like St. Agustine? I didn't have this issue with my EGO but it also didn't mulch or cut as well either. Maybe I need to raise the cutting height?
@@Loyalwhiteknight This is odd I'm thinking. Of course I'm not there and that is everything. Every bodies situation is /can be so different. Sounds like something is wrong with your mower if it's bogging down. My Max mower does good in 6"-7" high (wild weed/grass mix) terrible lawn and now because of the high amount of rain it is always wet to a degree even though dry outside for 2-3 days.
Of course you may be aware but I'll suggest the obvious, good way to tell how much moisture is in the grass is to look under the mower deck and see how much is sticking plus your shoes turn green walking behind the mower. After just about every mow I look under the deck to see quickly if needs cleaning. A mower can get buildup grass underneath often, wet or semi-dry, that really effects the blade cutting performance. Until you get a scraper or remove the buildup surrounding grass with your hands and remove it...the mowers just don't seem to run right with built up grass underneath. I suggest putting it up in the stow upright position and look underneath. Make sure the underside is free of buildup. If it does have areas of buildup wash with garden hose and a nozzle until see all metal around. Even the rear port tunnel can get caked up and get blocked. Yep cutting and blowing grass out the rear with the bag door down is worthless. I registed my mower and requested the chute about 5-6 days ago. Let me know how your looks underneath and if this helps.
I can tell you that it was caked with grass so I switched to my Uncles since it was brand new to see if it did better only to find it did the exact same thing.
@@Loyalwhiteknight I will likely make one more video once I get my chute and show my mower cut my yards 7"-8" tall lawn with the mulcher setup, then the bag and then the chute. My grass will be damp because of all the rain we are getting. I typically like to cut down to 2.5 to 3 inch tall as lower it turns more off brown light tan. We will see how it does and see if it bogs down like you are seeing or what grass is left behind or what everything looks like, the good and the bad. A nice grass lawn compared to mine should be a lot easier to cut. I can even cut a section of my neighbors pro seeded and grown grass and see how it does there too. Likely next Saturday if I get my toro chute delivered.