It's interesting that you should mention thinning the quickshade with mineral spirits, no other video I've seen recommends it but it definitely has a positie effect.
That Guy : I can’t take credit for the idea. I first dipped straight in the pot and immediately saw it was to thick for a professional look. I saw another written tutorial that mentioned the thinning and it made a huge difference.
Not for Quick Shade. If you think of it functioning like Nuln Oil you’d be in for a shock. Quick Shade is basically wood stain…you are going to destroy whatever brush you use and you need stiff bristles to work it or if you want to use mineral spirits to tweak it.
Dipping is a skill like anything else. If you're good at it, it can have tremendous effects. These look better than 90% of painted minis you will see irl.
Good tutorial ty. Mine is always sticky after using the quickshade, does the matte varnish fix this? Also when you say mineral spirits do you just mean sparkling water/fizzy water?
mero40k absolutely the varnish not only takes the tacky ness away, it allows you to paint on top of it if you want further highlights. No mineral spirts is a chemical you can find near the turpentine at an art supplies store.
looks a great Finnish , A Quick question after using a dark tone or light tone , what would be the purpose of buying and applying with nuln oil or agrath earthshades if you have already done a dark or light tone to your models cheers
There could be a few reasons. One I would say is all “shades” or “washes” even if they share the same name, are not created equal. I have three different black “shades” from 3 different companies and they all work quite differently. Also if the purpose of the the dip in quick shade was primarily for say, armor, so you use dark tone, but the model also has a light colored cloak…you may chose to lighten up the cloak then apply a different tone or even brand of wash over it. At the end of the day I think it can be as simple (base colors only then dip) or as complex (multi colors, dip, highlighting, additional shading/toning) as you want it to be!
Can this be used as a form of pin washing after applied and matt varnish sprayed? In other words can I continue and highlight the base coats after ? Thanks for your reply
At the jump from 19:15 to 19:20 did the anti-shine destroy the color pop the model had or was that just the camera settings washing out the color? I'm curious because I quit using normal matte spray-on varnish and switched to brush-on satin only for that very reason.
The lighting I was using at the time was quite poor and the cell phone frequently changed the representation of color. The anti shine in my experience only removed glossiness. It did not do anything to my colors.
@@StudioGDT thanks for the quick answer. Makes sense. I'll have to do quite a bunch of zombies and other miniatures soon ;) For some of them I think I won't paint but just prime and dip into the wash. To get a similar effect to stormbrush/ sundrop.
I cannot get this crap to work for me at all what-so-ever. I got the 250ml can to dip and the first mini I dipped was ruined. Too thick. I added thinner to it and still, ruined mini after ruined mini. I then added more thinner and brushed it on...... ruined. This stuff does NOT work as advertised. Adding thinner only made this crap work worse. It doesnt flick off after the dip and it doesnt settle into crack over a 30 second period (it dries up too fast) then it wont soak up in to the dry brush from the pooled areas. This stuff sucks!!!!!! Never again.
I think you need to change your methods. Don’t dip. Don’t mix in the main can. I bought some smaller jars and some pippettes to make sure I maintain the appropriate ratios. In your smaller jar make sure you have a ratio of three parts shade to one part white mineral spirits. Specifically white mineral spirits. Not a substitute. Brush on, do not dip. You can brush heavy however. Once brushed on, clean your brush then use the empty brush to soak up dip in areas where you have too much. I can assure you, if used properly it works quite well. The submerge in can and flick method is not the way to use the product successfully. Also if the product is drying within 30 seconds, something is seriously wrong. Either your can went off or it has some improper thinning ratio in play, because it will stay tacky for quite some time.
@@StudioGDT I believe that this is a bad can of shader. Even after adding what I believe is too much thinner, it still is too thick. I did try this method you subjected and it didnt work. I thinned the shader and used a brush. It turned thick and sticky almost right away. Didnt settle in to any cracks ver 30 seconds and when I tried to soak up the excess it didnt come off, just stuck to the mini like tree sap. Im so pissed off. The exact same stuff from the squeeze bottle works WAY better than this canned crap and looks different too. The squeeze bottle looks like crystal coffee while this canned crap looks like milky creamy chocolate. I bought it from Amazon and I did a return today.
@@supersteve76 the can is not and will not ever be the same consistency As the dropped bottles. The dropper bottles are a traditional water based wash. The dip is almost like a lacquer with urethane built it. It will always be thick almost like molasses. That being said I would never buy it from Amazon, you have no idea how long they have had. I have purchased all three different tones and have had no issues with all three. It is very likely your can is off. That being said, it may also not be the right product for you. Based on the feedback in this thread, the issues you are having are not common which leads me to believe either your can is bad or something else is going on.
Totally your personal preference! If you wanted the scales to look like a snakes, then you may prefer the gloss as is. The spray is not required. It’s all up to you!
What I can tell you is Minwax is NOT the same thing, trust me I tried. For the minimal amount of money you save trying to find something cheaper, you spend more money in time lost with inconsistent results and characteristics.
Sorry for asking a dumb question, I am just about to paint my first minis, when you thin down the quickshade, do you get it out of the can using a pippette? Then put it into a plastic container and then pippette the mineral spirit in and mix it up?
@@StudioGDT it worked well, the use of it I have seen previously the shadows looked like they had pooled too much and having it thinner helped a lot with getting the excess off
I'd say that it can be preferable to stir as opposed to shake. When I shook mine I had a lot of air bubbles at first and it took a bit more care to get it to flow correctly. I believe they recommend stirring, specifically, on the label.
For painted mini's that's how I will try it. However I'm going to use this to do unprimed/unpainted mini's since the polyurethane supposedly makes it work perfectly even without primer. So I'll just grab some dark tone (gray minis), dip them in, shake them off and clean up the pooling a bit. Hopefully can do 65 or so mini's in an afternoon.
Mark completely different. This is not a wash. Totally different application and end characteristics. If you were to wash an entire model and leave it, it would be dull and flat in its presentation. The Quick shade leaves a clear layer where it’s thinnest allow lighter colors and highlights to show through as well as creating an almost polyurethane like protective finish. Citadel shades are inks and do not have any hardening/protective properties.
It's interesting that you should mention thinning the quickshade with mineral spirits, no other video I've seen recommends it but it definitely has a positie effect.
That Guy : I can’t take credit for the idea. I first dipped straight in the pot and immediately saw it was to thick for a professional look. I saw another written tutorial that mentioned the thinning and it made a huge difference.
@@StudioGDT Can you use wd40 to thin it? wd40 is a white spirit
Using a brush with short and stiff bristles for a wash seems very weird.
Not for Quick Shade. If you think of it functioning like Nuln Oil you’d be in for a shock. Quick Shade is basically wood stain…you are going to destroy whatever brush you use and you need stiff bristles to work it or if you want to use mineral spirits to tweak it.
Dipping is a skill like anything else. If you're good at it, it can have tremendous effects. These look better than 90% of painted minis you will see irl.
I think the mistake's add a dirty gross effect on the death gaurd that looks good. Happy little accidents.
Pro tip : you can watch series at flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching all kinds of movies these days.
@Terry Rudy Yea, have been using flixzone} for years myself =)
@Terry Rudy definitely, I've been watching on Flixzone} for months myself :D
Good tutorial ty. Mine is always sticky after using the quickshade, does the matte varnish fix this? Also when you say mineral spirits do you just mean sparkling water/fizzy water?
mero40k absolutely the varnish not only takes the tacky ness away, it allows you to paint on top of it if you want further highlights. No mineral spirts is a chemical you can find near the turpentine at an art supplies store.
@@StudioGDT ah ok, sounds good. Thnx again!
Whoops, I was reaching for the whiskey.
Holy Cow this is an amazingand complete tutorial! Thanks for putting this out.
Thanks for the tip on thinning the quickshade. I have a ton of zombies and pirates to do and this will work nicely
Welcome! Good luck!
This was very helpful, thank you! I realize where I went wrong when I first tried to use a wash.
It’s the “eerrrmm” channel!
Huh. Well that looks good. I've seen this stuff at my LGS for a while now but never pulled the trigger, I may try it now. Good video.
TrippyTheShroom it is definitely worth a try. Thank you for stopping by.
You can not. It does not have the same affect
O snap awesome
Secret Death Guard painting tutorial
;)
Makes me want to paint some Minis again! Nice meeting you!
nice video. Look a little clean to me for DG ;) thanks for sharing !
looks a great Finnish , A Quick question after using a dark tone or light tone , what would be the purpose of buying and applying with nuln oil or agrath earthshades if you have already done a dark or light tone to your models cheers
There could be a few reasons. One I would say is all “shades” or “washes” even if they share the same name, are not created equal. I have three different black “shades” from 3 different companies and they all work quite differently. Also if the purpose of the the dip in quick shade was primarily for say, armor, so you use dark tone, but the model also has a light colored cloak…you may chose to lighten up the cloak then apply a different tone or even brand of wash over it. At the end of the day I think it can be as simple (base colors only then dip) or as complex (multi colors, dip, highlighting, additional shading/toning) as you want it to be!
Can this be used as a form of pin washing after applied and matt varnish sprayed? In other words can I continue and highlight the base coats after ?
Thanks for your reply
Yes absolutely. I would just recommend hitting it with the varnish again as a final so the finish of all areas match.
Great video. Thanks for making.
At the jump from 19:15 to 19:20 did the anti-shine destroy the color pop the model had or was that just the camera settings washing out the color?
I'm curious because I quit using normal matte spray-on varnish and switched to brush-on satin only for that very reason.
The lighting I was using at the time was quite poor and the cell phone frequently changed the representation of color. The anti shine in my experience only removed glossiness. It did not do anything to my colors.
hey, looks good. does this work as a dip?
Yes although I still recommend clean up of excessive dip w a brush and mineral spirits
@@StudioGDT thanks for the quick answer. Makes sense.
I'll have to do quite a bunch of zombies and other miniatures soon ;)
For some of them I think I won't paint but just prime and dip into the wash. To get a similar effect to stormbrush/ sundrop.
I cannot get this crap to work for me at all what-so-ever. I got the 250ml can to dip and the first mini I dipped was ruined. Too thick. I added thinner to it and still, ruined mini after ruined mini. I then added more thinner and brushed it on...... ruined. This stuff does NOT work as advertised. Adding thinner only made this crap work worse. It doesnt flick off after the dip and it doesnt settle into crack over a 30 second period (it dries up too fast) then it wont soak up in to the dry brush from the pooled areas. This stuff sucks!!!!!! Never again.
I think you need to change your methods. Don’t dip. Don’t mix in the main can. I bought some smaller jars and some pippettes to make sure I maintain the appropriate ratios. In your smaller jar make sure you have a ratio of three parts shade to one part white mineral spirits. Specifically white mineral spirits. Not a substitute. Brush on, do not dip. You can brush heavy however. Once brushed on, clean your brush then use the empty brush to soak up dip in areas where you have too much. I can assure you, if used properly it works quite well. The submerge in can and flick method is not the way to use the product successfully. Also if the product is drying within 30 seconds, something is seriously wrong. Either your can went off or it has some improper thinning ratio in play, because it will stay tacky for quite some time.
@@StudioGDT I believe that this is a bad can of shader. Even after adding what I believe is too much thinner, it still is too thick. I did try this method you subjected and it didnt work. I thinned the shader and used a brush. It turned thick and sticky almost right away. Didnt settle in to any cracks ver 30 seconds and when I tried to soak up the excess it didnt come off, just stuck to the mini like tree sap. Im so pissed off. The exact same stuff from the squeeze bottle works WAY better than this canned crap and looks different too. The squeeze bottle looks like crystal coffee while this canned crap looks like milky creamy chocolate. I bought it from Amazon and I did a return today.
@@supersteve76 the can is not and will not ever be the same consistency As the dropped bottles. The dropper bottles are a traditional water based wash. The dip is almost like a lacquer with urethane built it. It will always be thick almost like molasses. That being said I would never buy it from Amazon, you have no idea how long they have had. I have purchased all three different tones and have had no issues with all three. It is very likely your can is off. That being said, it may also not be the right product for you. Based on the feedback in this thread, the issues you are having are not common which leads me to believe either your can is bad or something else is going on.
This is great! Man, you made me consider to start a new hobby!
I'm really new to miniature painting, and I was wondering, should I use the antishine spray for say a dragon or a dinosaur?
Totally your personal preference! If you wanted the scales to look like a snakes, then you may prefer the gloss as is. The spray is not required. It’s all up to you!
Do they actually have a factory making primer or is it a relabelled product , anyone ?
What I can tell you is Minwax is NOT the same thing, trust me I tried. For the minimal amount of money you save trying to find something cheaper, you spend more money in time lost with inconsistent results and characteristics.
Sorry for asking a dumb question, I am just about to paint my first minis, when you thin down the quickshade, do you get it out of the can using a pippette? Then put it into a plastic container and then pippette the mineral spirit in and mix it up?
That is exactly what I did!
@@StudioGDT it worked well, the use of it I have seen previously the shadows looked like they had pooled too much and having it thinner helped a lot with getting the excess off
Thank you for all the advices! Do you shake the QuickShade mix before applying it?
Axel Lundblad absolutely! I would shake it and mix it about five minutes before you intend to use it to allow for bubbles to settle.
I'd say that it can be preferable to stir as opposed to shake. When I shook mine I had a lot of air bubbles at first and it took a bit more care to get it to flow correctly. I believe they recommend stirring, specifically, on the label.
Does this also protect the mini? Does the shade act as a varnish on its own?
Absolutely
Very helpful video for this wash. I tried using it right out of the can for a few guys. Much better with mineral spirits
So glad it was able to help !
For painted mini's that's how I will try it. However I'm going to use this to do unprimed/unpainted mini's since the polyurethane supposedly makes it work perfectly even without primer. So I'll just grab some dark tone (gray minis), dip them in, shake them off and clean up the pooling a bit. Hopefully can do 65 or so mini's in an afternoon.
Hi, can you give an idea of which mineral spirits you would recommend to thin the quickshade?
Владислав Сухорученков I used “white” mineral spirits
Christopher Goodall Thank you.
Very helpful, thank you
You can paint over varnish?
The Army Painter Varnish among others you can.
Basically agrathax earthshade
Mark completely different. This is not a wash. Totally different application and end characteristics. If you were to wash an entire model and leave it, it would be dull and flat in its presentation. The Quick shade leaves a clear layer where it’s thinnest allow lighter colors and highlights to show through as well as creating an almost polyurethane like protective finish. Citadel shades are inks and do not have any hardening/protective properties.
Could you mix with water instead of mineral spirits?
No sir.