Looking at your keel holes , there oblong because keel was loose and moving. If you leave lug nuts on car loose, you get same thing oblong holes. I think you had up and down movement. In rear end of keel. It dont take much movement stainless steel bolts against fiberglass. Im looking at 25 foot Hunter for sale for 500. It has same problem.I saw your film its good to see how big a job it is. thankyou
Thank you for this very helpful video, impressive job. Didn't you fear crevice corrosion with your stainless steel threaded rods? why didn't you change them? what made you think they were fine and good to be re-used? Suppose a minute a boat is not leaking, and all the bolts are all hidden by fibreglass, do you think the rods are necessarily good?
Nice job and she looks great with the new bottom paint. Do you think the holes were filed to get the bolt to fit through due to a misalignment during the build?
Thanks! Yes I suspect something like that. Epecially since only the two holes that were down in the bilge and on a different level from the other ones were misaligned.
I noticed those and went over them with my hand. Most of it felt like differences between the two halfs of the hull when they were joint together. I guess another builder hade sanded down stuff like that but in this case they might have thought no one would ever notice. Ha! ;-) Other areas were smooth but still hade the sign of crack. But since most of the area seemed to be well joint together I felt I didn't needed to bother.
Did you use the plastic pipe that u epoxied over ? And to do that did you have to enlarge the holes in the fibreglass? You said you “removed the bolts again”. Did u mean to say you removed the “nuts” again ? Thanks
Yes I used the pipes I made on all the bolts but I only had to enlarged parts of the holes that were misaligned. Due to their tight fit the bolts were really close to the wall of the hole so I had to use a rasp and make some place for the pipe. And yes I ment that I removed the nuts. :-)
I used an epoxy putty (epoxibutiken.se/produkt/nm-spackel-elastic-705/) from a swedish brand. When it has cured it becomes like a bandy ball (if you know the swedish bandy game). Hardness 80 Shore A and 30% elastic.
Thank you for sharing. It is such an education but most of all, I think, I gained a big step forward in confidence that such a scary job of removing the keel for repair can actually be done on our own.
Impressive work. So great that you completed this task!
makes me real happy that my Nauticat 44 has a totally encapsulated keel.
Looking at your keel holes , there oblong because keel was loose and moving. If you leave lug nuts on car loose, you get same thing oblong holes. I think you had up and down movement. In rear end of keel. It dont take much movement stainless steel bolts against fiberglass.
Im looking at 25 foot Hunter for sale for 500. It has same problem.I saw your film its good to see how big a job it is. thankyou
1. What sealing product did you use? 2. What paint did you use?
Thank you for this very helpful video, impressive job.
Didn't you fear crevice corrosion with your stainless steel threaded rods? why didn't you change them? what made you think they were fine and good to be re-used?
Suppose a minute a boat is not leaking, and all the bolts are all hidden by fibreglass, do you think the rods are necessarily good?
How will the Forces transferd from the "green" material to the "white" Hull?? If there is no strong conection, the keel fall of?
Nice job and she looks great with the new bottom paint. Do you think the holes were filed to get the bolt to fit through due to a misalignment during the build?
Thanks! Yes I suspect something like that. Epecially since only the two holes that were down in the bilge and on a different level from the other ones were misaligned.
have you consider dedicate yourself the radio?
7:43 cracks in the keel stub? Were these cracks taken care of? Just curious.
I noticed those and went over them with my hand. Most of it felt like differences between the two halfs of the hull when they were joint together. I guess another builder hade sanded down stuff like that but in this case they might have thought no one would ever notice. Ha! ;-) Other areas were smooth but still hade the sign of crack. But since most of the area seemed to be well joint together I felt I didn't needed to bother.
Did you use the plastic pipe that u epoxied over ?
And to do that did you have to enlarge the holes in the fibreglass?
You said you “removed the bolts again”. Did u mean to say you removed the “nuts” again ?
Thanks
Yes I used the pipes I made on all the bolts but I only had to enlarged parts of the holes that were misaligned. Due to their tight fit the bolts were really close to the wall of the hole so I had to use a rasp and make some place for the pipe. And yes I ment that I removed the nuts. :-)
WOW nice job!! you have a Coppercoat?
what sealant did you use
I used an epoxy putty (epoxibutiken.se/produkt/nm-spackel-elastic-705/) from a swedish brand. When it has cured it becomes like a bandy ball (if you know the swedish bandy game). Hardness 80 Shore A and 30% elastic.
Thank you for sharing. It is such an education but most of all, I think, I gained a big step forward in confidence that such a scary job of removing the keel for repair can actually be done on our own.
You cant replace the bolts in the keel , they are cast into the lead