Wow that's what you were doing. Why did you need to do. How did they get loose?? No wonder you had a sore back. You did so much that I didn't understand at the time. Good job Cory with 2 little ones too. Lots of projects when the boat is older but it is a beautiful boat I have to say. Learning everyday 😘⛵️🏖❤️💗💗
@WildlyIntrepid my pleasure love you all. Hum maybe you should invest in more took tools or see what I have here. Never use. If it is a routine thing. Easy on the old body😘⛵️🏖❤️💗💗
The torque spec on bolts is the allowed torque of that size of bolts, it may not be the torque spec of the items being joined together. More important is that they are all the same. Depending on how they are fastened into the keel you could actually break them free.
That is a good point. I was nervous about stripping or pulling the j hooks out of the lead. I'm happy getting at least a little more torque on the ones that didn't have epoxy anymore. Maybe next time I'll try and give the epoxy ones another go and see if they budge around 250lbs or so.
300 ft-lbs? seems crazy - did you check with the manufacturer of the boat? My boat keels only requires 95-110 ft-lbs as the stub material would be crushed. Drill holes in the bottom of the battery box to allow future access to the bolts.
As each video goes by we feel we are one closer to first hand seeing all of your hard work. I have a much better appreciation for how deep your bilges are. Seeing them in person is one thing but having to work down there is another. Hopefully you were able to torque those bolts closer to spec. If not, and you do make your way back up, hit me up. I may be able to borrow one for you to use.
Rough rule of thumb is to derate dry torque 30-50% if wet. I found a reference for anti-seize that calls for a 15% reduction. Derate about 40% if the bolt is lubricated with SAE 30 oil (like 3-in-one). We're torquing to get a required amount of stretch from the bolt, and the threads are a curved ramp...sorta. Smearing bacon grease on the ramp makes it easier to get the block of stone to the top of the pyramid. 😄
One thing I love here is all the great feedback. Where would greasy bilge gunk fall on that 30 to 50% scale I wonder. Maybe you can chime in on how heat can affect torquing. Cheers
I've got a similar issue with my keel bolt and was going to use a heat gun to get the bolt hot, which should expand, opening the possibility to apply the correct torque manually. Thoughts?
I'm not sure if I would want to apply heat. My thinking is I tend to add penetrating oil to release a stuck bolt. As a last resort I would add heat and that tends to free it no matter what. With that in mind I imagine adding heat would affect the torque a lot without a good way to determine what you actually torqued it to. I think a longer bar and torque wrench would be the key if you can get one. Then you can calculate how much torque has been applied. If you know exactly the temp you get the bolt to then you may be able to calculate it as well.
i don't know - seems excessive based on any torquing I have done. My boat is 95-110 ft-lbs (based on boat manufacturer) the bolt may take that rating but that is not necessarily what he requires.
Wow that's what you were doing. Why did you need to do. How did they get loose??
No wonder you had a sore back. You did so much that I didn't understand at the time. Good job Cory with 2 little ones too.
Lots of projects when the boat is older but it is a beautiful boat I have to say. Learning everyday 😘⛵️🏖❤️💗💗
It's just a routine check as they can become loose over time. You were a big help with the kids. Thanks so much.
@WildlyIntrepid my pleasure love you all.
Hum maybe you should invest in more took tools or see what I have here. Never use. If it is a routine thing. Easy on the old body😘⛵️🏖❤️💗💗
It's something you only do once in a while. Did it once on the other boat
The torque spec on bolts is the allowed torque of that size of bolts, it may not be the torque spec of the items being joined together. More important is that they are all the same. Depending on how they are fastened into the keel you could actually break them free.
That is a good point. I was nervous about stripping or pulling the j hooks out of the lead. I'm happy getting at least a little more torque on the ones that didn't have epoxy anymore. Maybe next time I'll try and give the epoxy ones another go and see if they budge around 250lbs or so.
When you go to re-torque them, rent a torque multiplier and get 1" drive socket and extensions. Most tool rental places should have them.
That is a great idea. I didn't even think that was an option
good point. If things looked sound, I thing I’d be happy w/ an equal little snug on each
👍👍👍
I did that a few months ago on NYX II. Glad to say only one bolt moved just a little!!!!!! No gap on keel to hull., THX!!!!!!
That's great to hear Scott. It's nice to know when a repair actually works. We will likely glass in the keel to hull on this boat at some point.
300 ft-lbs? seems crazy - did you check with the manufacturer of the boat? My boat keels only requires 95-110 ft-lbs as the stub material would be crushed. Drill holes in the bottom of the battery box to allow future access to the bolts.
As each video goes by we feel we are one closer to first hand seeing all of your hard work. I have a much better appreciation for how deep your bilges are. Seeing them in person is one thing but having to work down there is another. Hopefully you were able to torque those bolts closer to spec. If not, and you do make your way back up, hit me up. I may be able to borrow one for you to use.
A lot of love is being put into this boat. It was nice having you on board and we'll hit you up if we come back this way. Those bilges are so deep.
I find it mind boggling that the bolts are inline, and not staggered.
It did seem strange but I'm assuming it was engineered properly if not over spec.
As the Keel flares if they were not in line it would create weakness.
check out a torque multiplier.
Next time I'll be sure to use one.
Rough rule of thumb is to derate dry torque 30-50% if wet. I found a reference for anti-seize that calls for a 15% reduction. Derate about 40% if the bolt is lubricated with SAE 30 oil (like 3-in-one). We're torquing to get a required amount of stretch from the bolt, and the threads are a curved ramp...sorta. Smearing bacon grease on the ramp makes it easier to get the block of stone to the top of the pyramid. 😄
One thing I love here is all the great feedback. Where would greasy bilge gunk fall on that 30 to 50% scale I wonder. Maybe you can chime in on how heat can affect torquing. Cheers
A lot of trouble, but the family will be safe in the home.
Absolutely
Think I would have put an inspection hole in the bottom of the battery box rather than diging that box out
That would have been a good idea. But we needed the rebuild it for our new batteries anyway.
I've got a similar issue with my keel bolt and was going to use a heat gun to get the bolt hot, which should expand, opening the possibility to apply the correct torque manually. Thoughts?
I'm not sure if I would want to apply heat. My thinking is I tend to add penetrating oil to release a stuck bolt. As a last resort I would add heat and that tends to free it no matter what. With that in mind I imagine adding heat would affect the torque a lot without a good way to determine what you actually torqued it to. I think a longer bar and torque wrench would be the key if you can get one. Then you can calculate how much torque has been applied. If you know exactly the temp you get the bolt to then you may be able to calculate it as well.
350 pounds seems so wrong!
But I believe you.
i don't know - seems excessive based on any torquing I have done. My boat is 95-110 ft-lbs (based on boat manufacturer) the bolt may take that rating but that is not necessarily what he requires.