Breeding and raising Clownfish - Amphiprion ocellaris

แชร์
ฝัง
  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
  • I finally have a batch of Amphiprion ocellaris fry! This video covers the steps taken to hatch and raise the clownfish fry past metamorphosis and up to 6 weeks old.
    Hatch tank:
    10g tank with heater and airstone.
    temp set at 76 deg F.
    originally filled about 1/3 - 3 or 4 gallons of saltwater with salinity to match spawning tank.
    after first week, salinity was slowly lowered to 1.024 sg and water was topped up to the full 10 gallons (adding about 1 gal per day)
    night lite added on day 2 to aid in feeding, removed on day 14.
    First food:
    Tigger pods and Tetraselmis phyto cultures
    www.algagendir...
    www.bluebladef...
    Later foods:
    golden pearls(50-100micron, 100-200 micron),
    "KEN'S HIGH PROTEIN FRY GREEN GRANULE" .2 mm and .5mm
    kensfish.com
    freshly hatched baby brine shrimp:
    www.brineshrim...
    Micro worms, Grindal worms:
    www.bluebladef...
    Music:
    Skewls_Owt by Noir Et Blanc Vie
    from the TH-cam Music Library
    Subscribe Now!
    www.youtube.co...

ความคิดเห็น • 11

  • @josean_rp
    @josean_rp 21 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

    How do you handle the ammonia issue? I already got 3 batches every 2 weeks, My batch # 4 will hatch today or tomorrow. From my last 3 batches, I only saved 7 clownfisgh. They are healthy and growing. I dont know what I did wrong? iI checked ammonia every day. Some of them died because ammoniam I was using ammonia remover but I don't think that helped that much. I feed them with rotifers. I suspect that my rotifers were the ammonia issue. I also use TDO A. Today I'm getting another 10 gallon tank to separated these 7 guys from the new ones that I'm hatching today or tomorrow.

    • @BlueBladeFish
      @BlueBladeFish  21 วันที่ผ่านมา

      so, set up the hatch tank as soon as you spot the eggs - a few weeks before is even better. with bright light and live Phyto\greenwater - the Phyto should feed on the ammonia and keep the levels down so it doesn't become toxic, and your pods and rotifers feed on the phyto. after the first week when the fry are swimming well, add a cycled sponge filter.

  • @drexistre7364
    @drexistre7364 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Awesome man glad hopefully you are having fun with this keep up the awesome work 👍

  • @lucasfathala7492
    @lucasfathala7492 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Can u try to 3d print a Vossen's Larval trap I've been breeding clownfish for almost a year and it's the only thing I can't get in Canada

    • @BlueBladeFish
      @BlueBladeFish  ปีที่แล้ว

      I think the transparency plays a big role in that device, and transparent 3d prints are just not all that feasible. it would best be done by cutting and bending/gluing acrylic. ill put it on the project list :-).

    • @Max_Ohm
      @Max_Ohm ปีที่แล้ว

      I've never used one of those. We just stick a flashlight on top of the breeding tank night of hatch and siphon the larvae into a big bowl, then into a prepared, darkened tank with breeding tank water in it

  • @Max_Ohm
    @Max_Ohm ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Neat video. I work at a clownfish farm and now have a pair of super storms laying eggs at home. Currently trying to wrap my head around small scale cultures :)

  • @mooosj
    @mooosj ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Do you intend to select any particular pattern/traits?

    • @BlueBladeFish
      @BlueBladeFish  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I may go that way eventually. at the moment I have not identified a specific rare trait in this line that i am interested in isolating and amplifying. but when they get older, there may be something... if so, ill chose those individuals to keep for future breeding.

  • @whiskeybarone
    @whiskeybarone ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Nice vid man any updates on the pla you had in the tank

    • @BlueBladeFish
      @BlueBladeFish  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      so far, it seems PLA does (slightly) better under water than in air. which is to say, it is holding up fine, no evidence of decay. however, for integrated screw threads - where the layers are in line with the force of torque I have managed to cause it to fail when ratcheting it down to hard. printing a tad hotter and with more walls seems to have resolved this.