I have a 1984 Weil McLain model 66 boiler. Parts and help is discontinued. I’m a self taught BT with Gary’s help. Thanks Gary! Where the burner mount to the firebox door there is a mounting flange with gasket. I had to make a gasket out of exhaust manifold stock because of lack of parts. Question: Does the gasket go tight around the burner tube or do l just cut it flange size? Cutting it flange size leaves a 1/4 “ +/- gap. I assume that would affect air flow.
I just worked in a Lennox oil furnace AFII FBX burner using 0.65 80B nozzle with a pump pressure at 140 psi . These are the settings per the manufacturer, but can i lower down to 100 psi to reduce my temperature at the stack from 530*F to 450*F without altering the system design? I am currently dealing with 10*F in excess of limit temperature rise of 60*F per Lennox
+Francisco Castellanos Be sure air flow is ok first. You can reduce pressure, but that will reduce the efficiency somewhat. I would try a .5 nozzle. Hope this helps. GFM
I've only worked on a couple of oil furnaces and that was a really long time ago. On the next one will you show how to adjust the pressure or did I miss that in a different video
You mean you have not been hanging on my every video? lol Here it is th-cam.com/video/Ikkl1MaZ9qw/w-d-xo.html I will be doing some on high pressure with a smaller nozzle soon. GFM
Higher pressure always will atomize better regardless of nozzle size. If you lower the size and raise the pressure the nozzle will have a higher gallonage, so you could reduce size to match the higher pressure. GFM
No. Reducing fuel pressure will change nozzle output. BTW I almost never reduce fuel pressure. higher pressure equals smaller droplets and better burn efficiency GFM
@@grayfurnaceman in my oil fired boiler there's an increased stack temperature but my boss isn't allowing me to reduce fuel nozzle. Thus, we were thinking of reducing the fuel pressure to increase the steam/fuel ratio
grayfurnaceman should i just stay with .579MH it seems to run great on that and heats really well. one question do you know what would cause a slight shutter in the burner as its running normally? The shutter seems to not affect the operation and has been doing it for years.
I would never recommend anyone to change factory pump pressures and nozzle sizes. They spend weeks and months developing the product. Not just for efficiency but also must pass ANSI Z21.13 and UL 726 testing with Calibrated equipment. This is a lawsuit waiting to happen...
This is full of very bad, dangerous advice. Burner is old style, pre retention head type, that often caused residential home fires. Stack temp of 650F degree is just bad. New retention head burners create fire ball with 80% to 85% efficiency with stack temps around 400F degrees. Beckett burner model AF and AFG is typical.
I service a lot of Carlin 99 domestic, and I will only use pp to fine tune. Usually no more than 100 -5 > +20 psig. You are never sure of the gauge cal status to give an accurate reading anyhow. Sometimes an extra 10 psig opens up the flame pattern that can get narrow with viscous #2HHO in a cold basement. Usually get a good flame with Hago SS under-fired to .75 - .85gph and high 80 eff. never had luck with Delevan A or B. Prefer under fire on crusty old units like a burnham 124 wbb with frustratingly shore fire box with just a target wall. - Sandy
I have a 1984 Weil McLain model 66 boiler. Parts and help is discontinued. I’m a self taught BT with Gary’s help. Thanks Gary! Where the burner mount to the firebox door there is a mounting flange with gasket. I had to make a gasket out of exhaust manifold stock because of lack of parts. Question: Does the gasket go tight around the burner tube or do l just cut it flange size? Cutting it flange size leaves a 1/4 “ +/- gap. I assume that would affect air flow.
I can't answer that one.
GFM
I just worked in a Lennox oil furnace AFII FBX burner using 0.65 80B nozzle with a pump pressure at 140 psi . These are the settings per the manufacturer, but can i lower down to 100 psi to reduce my temperature at the stack from 530*F to 450*F without altering the system design? I am currently dealing with 10*F in excess of limit temperature rise of 60*F per Lennox
+Francisco Castellanos Be sure air flow is ok first. You can reduce pressure, but that will reduce the efficiency somewhat. I would try a .5 nozzle. Hope this helps.
GFM
I've only worked on a couple of oil furnaces and that was a really long time ago. On the next one will you show how to adjust the pressure or did I miss that in a different video
You mean you have not been hanging on my every video? lol Here it is th-cam.com/video/Ikkl1MaZ9qw/w-d-xo.html I will be doing some on high pressure with a smaller nozzle soon.
GFM
grayfurnaceman You put out the videos faster than I can watch them lol
I will try harder to keep up lol
I thought the reason to raise pressure is to lower your nozzle size and atomize better
Higher pressure always will atomize better regardless of nozzle size. If you lower the size and raise the pressure the nozzle will have a higher gallonage, so you could reduce size to match the higher pressure.
GFM
Can I reduce the fuel pressure without compromising the fuel air ratio?
No. Reducing fuel pressure will change nozzle output. BTW I almost never reduce fuel pressure. higher pressure equals smaller droplets and better burn efficiency
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman in my oil fired boiler there's an increased stack temperature but my boss isn't allowing me to reduce fuel nozzle. Thus, we were thinking of reducing the fuel pressure to increase the steam/fuel ratio
@@parthindian1 I would tell my boss he is an idiot. Unless the nozzle size is less than .50 GPH, there is no reason to not change nozzle size.
GFM
did you ever do oil efficiency adjustments part 3
There was a hold up on it. There are actually 5 parts. It is scheduled to be published on Feb 23.
GFM
ok great
GMF, have you ever increased the nozzle size by a .05 to get more heat to the customer or is that dangerous?
A small change is usually not dangerous. However if you exceed the size on the nameplate, the efficiency will go down.
GFM
should use a .60A at 125PSI and an A nozzle is hollow and a ss is semi
Nozzle selection depends on the the burner, furnace size and local oil supplies. Start with the model plate which may have a recommendation.
GFM
Do they still make a .40 nozzle I have never seen it? At the moment I'm using a .579MH
I believe that is the smallest commonly used nozzle. It plugs easily.
GFM
grayfurnaceman should i just stay with .579MH it seems to run great on that and heats really well. one question do you know what would cause a slight shutter in the burner as its running normally? The shutter seems to not affect the operation and has been doing it for years.
Ben Boudreau That may be what is called a rumble, caused by the unit not establishing, but it usually stops after a few seconds.
GFM
What do you mean by not establishing?
Ben Boudreau The burner is not a pressure burner, meaning it must have a negative pressure in the vent to operate normally.
GFM
thanks...
is it safe Downsizing a nozzle from 0.65 80B down to 0.50 80*B the static plate will need to be changed out along with the end cone to size F0
+Francisco Castellanos I am not sure, but I think the FO head is for .5 to .75 size nozzles.
GFM
Assuming btu of oil is 140,000 in reality it’s 135,000 to - 138,000 BTU per gallon.
I would never recommend anyone to change factory pump pressures and nozzle sizes.
They spend weeks and months developing the product. Not just for efficiency but also must pass ANSI Z21.13 and UL 726 testing with Calibrated equipment. This is a lawsuit waiting to happen...
This is full of very bad, dangerous advice. Burner is old style, pre retention head type, that often caused residential home fires.
Stack temp of 650F degree is just bad. New retention head burners create fire ball with 80% to 85% efficiency with stack temps around 400F degrees. Beckett burner model AF and AFG is typical.
I service a lot of Carlin 99 domestic, and I will only use pp to fine tune. Usually no more than 100 -5 > +20 psig. You are never sure of the gauge cal status to give an accurate reading anyhow. Sometimes an extra 10 psig opens up the flame pattern that can get narrow with viscous #2HHO in a cold basement. Usually get a good flame with Hago SS under-fired to .75 - .85gph and high 80 eff. never had luck with Delevan A or B. Prefer under fire on crusty old units like a burnham 124 wbb with frustratingly shore fire box with just a target wall. - Sandy