Great to have you back, Matt, thanks for giving us almost a full hour of video. Best takeaway from this one for me was the idea of mixing colors with metallics - that was so effective.
While not so great for larger areas, for stuff like the undercarriage oleos and hydraulic struts I now use the Molotow Chrome stuff, which I bought as the refill pack. Using a brush, it goes on fast and easy, and looks really good for the high chrome parts.
Inspiring! Do I see correctly and you manage to spray MRP metallics through the PS-770? Do you thin the paint and what psi do you use? I always seem to fail trying to pull that of with the PS-771.
Mixing the metallics with regular colors really helps. I usually don't thin MRP, but sometimes I will for certain effects or because it's one of their weird colors that seems to prefer a bit of thinner (like light ghost gray). PSI is usually somewhere between 5-20. I go by feel though, like selecting gears on a mountain bike.
I know that its alomst two years back, since you post this video, and maybe you can't remember and give me an answer to my question, but..... I'll ask you.... I saw that you primed with GX2 the oleo struts, and then paint them with K Colors Steel How much time did you let the spaint cure, in order to mask them with tape? I am aksing you, because no matter how much time I let them cure (I let them cure almost 24h) when I take the masking tape off..... I got peeling problems
Matt, if I don’t have VMS thinner will Tamiya acrylic thinner (or anything else) also work? The finish you achieved sounds like exactly how that textural look inside the cans appeared in real life.
I know it's covered somewhere else in the series, but the basic mix is 50% water, 50% aquagloss, a few drops of paint (in a tattoo ink cup, this is usually 3-4 drops of a Tamiya paint) and a few drops of Derivan Matisse MM3 surface tension breaker. My usual go to color is Tamiya Rubber Black. But you can use any color depending on what you're after.
it's always a good day when Doogs posts a new video
Great to have you back, Matt, thanks for giving us almost a full hour of video. Best takeaway from this one for me was the idea of mixing colors with metallics - that was so effective.
Love the use of The Magic wash it’s so subtle but really jumps out !!! Nice one Matt 👍👍👌
This has been a very educational hour. This jet is going to be banging when you’re done.
Yay Doogs is back! Top effort as always.
Great to have you back
While not so great for larger areas, for stuff like the undercarriage oleos and hydraulic struts I now use the Molotow Chrome stuff, which I bought as the refill pack. Using a brush, it goes on fast and easy, and looks really good for the high chrome parts.
Looks great! Perfect reference for my F-4B build
Always admire your art Matt.
Great work. Really creative use of materials.
I love your vids and insights. I wish that one day I'll be at your level of model building.
I think your work looks amazing. At a contest I think it would get lost in the crowd and not be seen
Love the cans.
Inspiring! Do I see correctly and you manage to spray MRP metallics through the PS-770? Do you thin the paint and what psi do you use? I always seem to fail trying to pull that of with the PS-771.
Mixing the metallics with regular colors really helps. I usually don't thin MRP, but sometimes I will for certain effects or because it's one of their weird colors that seems to prefer a bit of thinner (like light ghost gray).
PSI is usually somewhere between 5-20. I go by feel though, like selecting gears on a mountain bike.
Pigment slurry is great!
I know that its alomst two years back, since you post this video, and maybe you can't remember and give me an answer to my question, but..... I'll ask you....
I saw that you primed with GX2 the oleo struts, and then paint them with K Colors Steel
How much time did you let the spaint cure, in order to mask them with tape?
I am aksing you, because no matter how much time I let them cure (I let them cure almost 24h) when I take the masking tape off..... I got peeling problems
Sweet! 🤗
Is there a substitute for Matisse Surface Tension Breaker? It doesn't seem to be available in the US.
Hi sir, a quick question.. do you have to prime everything? And what is the reason to prime it in black? I love your channel by the way, super cool…
They are the best-looking exhaust cans that aren't resin i've seen in a kit.
Body work? I thought this kit fit like a glove
It does. There's still bodywork needed.
Matt, if I don’t have VMS thinner will Tamiya acrylic thinner (or anything else) also work? The finish you achieved sounds like exactly how that textural look inside the cans appeared in real life.
It should. I'd be wary of just water, since surface tension could be an issue.
I actually build the gear, weapons, and crap like that first cuz it’s my least favorite thing to do. If I wait till the end I’ll do a crap job
May you please let me know what the "magic wash" mixture is? water, (acrylic or enamel) paint, surface tension medium, etc.
I know it's covered somewhere else in the series, but the basic mix is 50% water, 50% aquagloss, a few drops of paint (in a tattoo ink cup, this is usually 3-4 drops of a Tamiya paint) and a few drops of Derivan Matisse MM3 surface tension breaker.
My usual go to color is Tamiya Rubber Black. But you can use any color depending on what you're after.
@@DoogsModels Thank you for your time.
Apart from the ink, what are the other ingredients of the Liquitex carbon black wash?
Water, aquagloss, surface tension breaker
@@DoogsModels Brilliant. Thanks
tank shaped squirrels?
What glue did you use for the oleos? You said "ultra glue" but could you be more specific?
Ammo Ultra Glue
Maybe a stupid question, but why are there FOUR speed brakes glued to that ruler? As far as I know a Phantom only has two of those… 🤔
Am sure I saw in a previous video Matt had purchased a second Tamiya Phantom. Could be wrong but my guess is he's two on the go.
@@Zone5Aviation OK! Cool! I guess I missed the purchase of that second one then. 😊